Barney - a 1958 Series II [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

OneOff

3rd August 2016, 12:11 PM

Hello all,

I've been footling around talking to a few people about this truck in the Introductions thread and I thought I'd better start a proper (build?) thread in the right place.

Everyone seems to want to give their projects names so for forum purposes, I found it in a barn so I may call it "Barney", but in real life I'll probably just call it the truck. :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1085.jpg

I've got absolutely no idea what I'm doing, the biggest resto project I've ever taken on was a small trials bike - and that took me a year...
But my son Jon is a Land Rover buff so I'm looking forward to a bit of quality time with him. Here he is giving it the once over...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1086.jpg

It's powered by a 202 at the moment but came with the original 2.0 lt petrol; seized solid but if at all possible we'll try to put that back in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1087.jpg

It has two good panels, the bonnet and the rear window; all other panels are dented beyond redemption. The front panel is from a Series 1 and I think the tailgate is too so they will need replacing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1088.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1089.jpg

I gave it a pressure clean yesterday and removed a truckful of dirt

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1090.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1091.jpg

Anyway, it'll sit there now until I find more time/money to proceed further.
I'll be hanging around here quite a bit and hopefully meeting a few of you in due course.

Seeyas,
Peter.

Dgd69

3rd August 2016, 12:17 PM

Looks like a good project enjoy

pop058

3rd August 2016, 12:23 PM

Looks like you and your boy are in for some fun. Welcome to the world of real land rovers ( thems with leaf springs) There are quite a few Landy nuts in your area, so don't be afraid to stick your hand up if you need something

B.S.F.

3rd August 2016, 01:04 PM

Post removed.Didn't realise 2 threads existed on the same subject.
.W.

reachjatt

3rd August 2016, 03:06 PM

Looks very nice and straight for early series II. Seen worse !!
Regards,
Nav

russellrovers

3rd August 2016, 05:18 PM

Dark61

3rd August 2016, 06:57 PM

Very nice. I'll be interested to know how this goes. Was it previously owned by Mary Poppins?
cheers,
D

p.s that's a nice looking Barn you have there.

bemm52

3rd August 2016, 07:10 PM

Very nice. I'll be interested to know how this goes. Was it previously owned by Mary Poppins?
cheers,
D

p.s that's a nice looking Barn you have there.

HHHHm spotted the umbrella I'm guessing!!!!!!!!

OneOff

4th August 2016, 08:02 AM

hi peter i have all you need also i will swop the tailgate to the orignal i have good guards and s2 tub 2 to choose from

Thanks mate, I might take you up on that, although getting the motor going will be the first priority; where are you based?

Did these trucks come with no windscreen wipers? There is no evidence of them ever being fitted.

Dinty

4th August 2016, 08:27 AM

JDNSW

4th August 2016, 09:36 AM

As Dinty says. It would have been fitted with a single wiper on the bottom edge of the windscreen frame (but you will probably need to fit two for registration!). I think the windscreen frame has been replaced at some time by one out of a later 2a which had cable operated wipers.

Should be fairly easy to find a frame with the holes for the wipers. Finding working or repairable 'correct' wiper motors may not be as easy.

John

OneOff

4th August 2016, 11:41 AM

They were fitted with windscreen wipers, early S2/2A were fitted into the windscreen frame (along the bottom edge of the frame) but your frame doesn't appear to have any tell tale holes (or at least I can't see any), the bulkhead doesn't appear to have tell tale signs in the left side parcel tray either, so which leads me to think that it has had a windscreen frame change at some time in it's life for whatever reason, and I'm assuming that it was a farm vehicle as you wouldn't be able to register it without W/wipers, anyway it's still a better looking prospect to restore than anything I started with, cheers Dennis

Thanks Dennis, that's about what I was thinking as well. If he didn't need a drivers side window he certainly didn't need no darn windscreen wipers...
BTW, The drivers window was removed so he could get the rifle out quicker. There were 4 driver side window uppers in his shed, all from series 1 though. :D

S3ute

4th August 2016, 02:22 PM

Hello from Cape Town - usually Brisbane.

Not one to let an opportunity go begging.

Welcome to the world of leaf sprung Land Rovers. You might be interested in joining a few fellow owners through SLOW - Series Landy Owners Inc - which has a strong membership around SEQ and beyond. The club details and sub-site are towards the end of the AULRO site just after the GCLRO sub-site.

Cheers,

Neil

Secretary SLOW Inc.

russellrovers

4th August 2016, 07:33 PM

Thanks Dennis, that's about what I was thinking as well. If he didn't need a drivers side window he certainly didn't need no darn windscreen wipers...
BTW, The drivers window was removed so he could get the rifle out quicker. There were 4 driver side window uppers in his shed, all from series 1 though. :Dwiper motors here 30 dollors each

barney

5th August 2016, 06:39 AM

sounds like a great name to me. :)

harry

5th August 2016, 10:58 AM

Welcome, that looks like good project.
And to push our barrow, there are many series owners in the Gold Coast Land Rover Owners Club, some are also members of SLOW.
I have a 71 2a shorty.

OneOff

8th August 2016, 11:45 AM

Some big events at my place last weekend.
After tinkering around a bit, changing a tyre and buying a new battery, Barney fired up :)
It doesn't have a clutch or BRAKES :o, but it's pretty flat around here so after jury rigging a clutch with a pair of ViseGrips and a length of pipe, we set of for a jaunty circuit of the yard... push on lever with the right hand, select a gear with the left. High tech stuff.
Of course I wore my top hat and the wife put on her very best Queen Elizabeth head scarf for the occasion.
Chuffed as... :D

P.S. Where do I go to get an engine rebuild kit from for a 2 lt petrol?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/756.jpg

Cheers,
OneOff

mick88

10th August 2016, 07:43 PM

Pull the engine down first so that you can work out what you need.

Cheers, Mick.

russellrovers

10th August 2016, 08:24 PM

OneOff

11th August 2016, 12:05 PM

Thanks Mick & Jim, I will do both of those things.

I think the first thing I will do is get the brakes and clutch working in the truck as is, that way I can use it around the property while I rebuild the engine.

Peter.

OneOff

23rd August 2016, 09:18 AM

I know it's been mentioned somewhere - where can I find a workshop manual for this beastie??

Dinty

23rd August 2016, 09:24 AM

Within this site I believe that you can buy a Wksp manual from Dave (Incisor)
or you could surf the net and buy the rear half of the factory shop manual
Land Rover Series II IIA Factory Workshop Manual Part 2 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-II-IIA-Factory-Workshop-Manual-Part-2-/182252482736?hash=item2a6f1830b0:g:rBYAAOSwU-pXusK7)
cheers Dennis
or this one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Workshop-Manuals-Parts-1-2-Series-2-and-2A-/252502844277?hash=item3aca57a375:g:9g4AAOSwHoFXsuD E

OneOff

6th September 2016, 10:11 AM

A bit of this, bit of that going on lately...

as part of getting the clutch and brakes operational, I tidied up the pedal boxes and pedals; just waiting on the last few parts to get it back together. Should get them this week.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/939.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/940.jpg

Hmmm... not much needed here...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/941.jpg

...or here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/942.jpg

A few homemade bits; this is about the limit of my engineering skills.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/943.jpg

I'm thinking of getting the engine professionally re-built, as much as I'd like to say "I fixed it", I think it's beyond my skills. I think the old thing is worth saving; engine number and chassis number match so it is the original.
Can anyone recommend a perfectionist who could take this on in the SEQ area?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/944.jpg

Cheers,
OneOff

1950landy

6th September 2016, 12:13 PM

I've been using Engine Engineering at Rocklea to do my motors . Although they didn't do my 1695cc 80" they did my 1949 P3 Rover . MGB & Mini. They have always done a good job @ a reasonable price. I supplied the parts & did the assembly my self.

JDNSW

6th September 2016, 01:51 PM

Being a rare Series 2 still with the 2.0l engine, I would say it is worth saving the engine if possible.

John

OneOff

6th September 2016, 02:11 PM

I had seriously considered sending it to Turners Engineering in the UK who specialize in these engines, but at 3000 pounds ($5432.82) plus shipping both ways, it blows a mighty hole in the budget.

I want to do the right thing by it, as John says, it's a little bit rare, but my pockets are just not deep enough for that... and it's really only interesting and of value to other Roverphiles. I'm not exactly sitting on any sort of goldmine here and I need to be sensible about it.

I'm sure there are some very good local rebuilders who would do a good warrantied job at a reasonable cost. Having said that, I know "you get what you pay for" and I don't mind paying for quality.

Pete.

mick88

7th September 2016, 05:21 AM

Internally they are a fairly robust and well designed engine.
Strip it down yourself following the workshop manual then take the crankshaft, engine block and head to a reputable engine reconditioning shop to have it measured up and assessed to see if it is salvageable, which it should be unless it's been run out of oil or badly dusted. Parts and gaskets etc. for a rebuild are available, and when you are ready to assemble it follow the manual to a "T" or find a local AULROian who can assist you. The only tricky bit that can throw you a challenge is the rear bearing block and it's associated seals (T seals and split rear main seal), but they can be done.
Good luck.

Cheers, Mick.

OneOff

15th September 2016, 08:48 AM

:(
Well, not so good news...

I've replaced all the external clutch parts - master cylinder; slave cylinder; the pushrod and clevis components. I now have about an inch of movement at the pushrod when I depress the pedal... but still no clutch.
I can only assume now that the clutch itself inside the housing is knackered and will need replacing.

This puts paid to my plans of using it as a putter on the farm while I get the old motor done up; there's no way I'm pulling the Holden out to replace the clutch just for occasional use, so Barney will sit where it is until the motor is completed and I can start the strip down of the body and chassis... :(

A question : the clutch in the vehicle now - would it be a Holden clutch or a Land Rover clutch?

russellrovers

15th September 2016, 09:07 AM

JDNSW

15th September 2016, 09:34 AM

As Russellrovers says, the clutch plate is probably stuck to the flywheel and pressure plate with rust (or possibly the pilot bush is stuck).

But before getting too worried about the clutch itself, check that the clutch mechanism is actually working. If the slave cylinder is operating the bell crank, make sure that the clutch release shaft is actually turning. The issue here is that this shaft is linked to the shaft of the bell crank by two hardened steel pins and a short hardened steel tube. If one of these pins is broken, no clutch.

The pins must be hardened, or they will only have a short life - if replaced with an ordinary bolt, as is often the case, they will distort and lose movement, eventually breaking.

If you remove the bracket that holds the gear lever, you will find an opening into the bell housing, through which you should be able to see whether the pressure plate is actually releasing.

John

TimNZ

15th September 2016, 12:47 PM

I had the same problem with my series 3 last week, solution was to get the engine warm, then restart it in gear. It let go when I changed into 2nd.

Cheers,

Tim

OneOff

15th September 2016, 01:12 PM

Oh wow... how good is this forum.:banana:

Thank you gents, I will try that...

OneOff

16th September 2016, 06:53 AM

A question for the future -

I believe this car would have been originally positive earth using a generator (dynamo?), at the moment with the Holden it is negative earth.

Obviously from a authenticity perspective it should be returned to positive earth, but is this the best way to go?
For reliability or other reasons should I stay with an alternator/neg earth?
What needs to be changed to return it to original?
Can I use standard off the shelf electrical components (bulbs, switches etc.) or do I need special gear?
Anything else I need to consider?

Sorry if these are dumb electrical questions but I'm known to be a dumb electrical guy.

Peter.

chazza

16th September 2016, 07:25 AM

Obviously from a authenticity perspective it should be returned to positive earth, but is this the best way to go?
For reliability or other reasons should I stay with an alternator/neg earth?
What needs to be changed to return it to original?
Can I use standard off the shelf electrical components (bulbs, switches etc.) or do I need special gear?
Anything else I need to consider?

Peter.

There is nothing wrong with +ve earth, except when you wish to use a modern auxilliary, such as a radio, which are usually -ve earth.

Alternators charge the battery even when idling, so it depends on the driving conditions as to whether a dynamo can cope, e.g. slow traffic with headlights and wipers on, will test a dynamo.

To return to original will require a: dynamo; mounting brackets; fasteners; probably a new vee-belt and a bit of fiddling around to get it to fit. Google changing to +ve earth, there are a lot of good write-ups on the net. Recently I changed the polarity on my Alpine whilst keeping the dynamo; the ammeter wires have to be reversed and the polarity of the dynamo changed by exciting the field coils; it is a straight-forward exercise.

If you change to an alternator, the regulator needs to be removed and the wiring changed to suit the alternator. All other components can be left alone, provided that they are negative earth - they usually are. If your car has a radio check that it isn't positive earth; if you have an ammeter, change the wire connections so that it shows a positive charge when the engine is running,

Cheers Charlie

mick88

16th September 2016, 07:27 AM

Wow that clutch pedal has seen some use over it's life, judging by how smooth the foot plate on it is.
As for the clutch assembly in your vehicle, most likely a Holden pressure plate but may be a modified to accept the Land Rover thrust mechanism, clutch plate may be either Land Rover or a manufactured "special" to suit the conversion, spigot bush will be a special or a Holden bush machined out to take the larger diameter Land Rover spigot shaft.
The thrust bearing assembly should be standard Land Rover.
You won't really know until you strip it down.
Cheers, Mick.

Dark61

18th September 2016, 06:29 PM

I had the same problem with my series 3 last week, solution was to get the engine warm, then restart it in gear. It let go when I changed into 2nd.

Cheers,

Tim

I'm not sure I understand the freeing the clutch procedure - is it that you warm the engine up then put it in first and let the clutch out quick - or do you turn the engine off , put it in first and then crank the engine and it will kind of jerk forward? The two sound the same to me.
Cheers,
D

67hardtop

18th September 2016, 07:31 PM

Yep, start in gear, then try to change gear when moving. Usually works.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

TimNZ

18th September 2016, 09:01 PM

What Rod said ^^. Get the engine hot, turn it off, put the car in first, restart the engine, then drive "normally" using the clutch when you change gear. Hopefully the clutch will free itself from the flywheel, (if this is the problem). Just give yourself some space, and I don't see any need to be heavy handed with the throttle.

If you want to check the hydraulics are working loosen the slave cylinder mounting bolts off by about 10mm and get someone to press the clutch pedal down, the slave should push itself away from the bell-housing. Not completely fool proof as the slave cylinder isn't under any real load, but it will give you some idea as to what is going on.

Cheers,

Tim

JDNSW

18th September 2016, 09:07 PM

You don't actually have to change gears - just put your foot on the clutch and take the other foot off the accelerator is what does it - the engine braking will put a big load on the clutch.

John

OneOff

19th September 2016, 08:59 AM

I removed the gear stick and inspection cover on Sunday as John suggested.
I could see the withdrawal sleeve there and once I moved it back with a screwdriver, pushing the clutch pedal would push it forward again.
The three release levers were stuck forward, I think these should be back and in contact with the sleeve when the clutch is not depressed. Correct?

I took it for a punt around the paddock with my foot on and off the clutch with no success in releasing the clutch plate, but it was drizzling so I didn't persevere too long with it. I'll have another go next weekend.

In the meantime; on with the engine disassembly...

Peter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/456.jpg

JDNSW

19th September 2016, 12:12 PM

At least its oily inside!

John

OneOff

30th September 2016, 03:58 PM

Barneys non-beating heart has been disassembled, mostly cleaned up and proudly shown to the engine re-builders.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/8.jpg

The verdict is that it should be repairable; they will do the machining but have left the job of sourcing all the internal parts to me... great!.. :o

Is around $2000 a lot for all machining, crank, block and head? Sounds like a lot but it's all new to me.

Pretty much everything internal needs replacing except the crankshaft.
So I'll ask the brains trust; is there a simple one-stop-shop where I can get piston kits, camshaft bits; valves etc?

Peter.

dreamin'

30th September 2016, 09:59 PM

I recently had mine done - rebore, crankshaft and camshaft regrind, machined head, new guides fitted, for around $1200. New pistons, rings and pins around $800 on top of that. Gasket kits, valves, valve guides, timing chain, other bits about the same again. Still buying odd bits like rear main seal, which are $$y.

Hope this helps

chazza

1st October 2016, 07:35 AM

... is there a simple one-stop-shop where I can get piston kits, camshaft bits; valves etc?

Peter.

Yes; Ian Cox in the UK is an engine re-conditioner and has everything. Google him,

Cheers Charlie

OneOff

11th November 2016, 10:44 AM

The motor is with Precise Engine Re-builders in Southport. It's an old school establishment and brothers Will and Graham have run it together for 30 years. Will has done a few Series engines before so I'm confident it's in good hands.

I heard back from them yesterday; the bores were too rusted to be salvaged so its getting liners in ($$$), crank and big ends have been ground and I've started to order some parts from Cox & Turner.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/521.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/522.jpg

OneOff

22nd November 2016, 01:44 PM

Lots and lots been going on with Barney. Without even meeting me TimNZ has managed to shame me into action with the speed and determination he has put into his project, only had it in his hands two weeks and already starting to rebuild, :(

So after my truck has been sitting in the same spot since i bought it home six months ago, I've finally started to do something...
I'll post up some photos of the dismantle at some point, but first I've another question.

As part of installing a Holden motor, as this one has had, is it usual to shift or replace the original engine mount brackets? Not the ones on the engine, the ones that form part of the chassis? I see evidence of things being cut off and some very c-grade farm welding. If so how do I go about restoring them so the Rover engine will go back in? Are there new brackets on the market I could weld in, or could I fabricate my own? If someone could put up some pictures of what they should look like I might be able to go from there...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/229.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/230.jpg

Apart from this small glitch, the frame is in excellent condition; no rust whatsoever and a couple of bent outriggers that I fixed with a big hammer.
Testament to the drier weather they have in western NSW.

It does have the cutout in the radiator cross member as part of the conversion, is this going to be a deal breaker when it comes time to register it?

Peter.

JDNSW

22nd November 2016, 07:32 PM

.......

It does have the cutout in the radiator cross member as part of the conversion, is this going to be a deal breaker when it comes time to register it?

Peter.

Probably not, but it does depend on who is inspecting it - and the time to do something about it is before you start assembly. It would not be a big job to replace the missing plating and grind back the welds before painting - you would not need to remove the added metal. Done properly it would not be apparent to even fairly close examination, and would be just as strong as the original, if not stronger.

John

Tote

23rd November 2016, 01:39 AM

There some pictures of the unholdening of my series 1 in this thread
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/93483-new-toy-1957-107-ute-2.html#post1224510

Might be of some use to see what can be done.

Regards,
Tote

OneOff

23rd November 2016, 03:15 PM

Thanks Tote,

Just lost two hours reading through your thread, very informative and time well spent, certainly beats working, thanks.

Your chassis parts in question look much the same as mine, it's hard to say if mine have been shifted or modified. They've definitely got some dodgy welding done though, more research coming up for me!

John,
I agree, now is the time to fix the cross-member, and also the one running under the gearbox has had a jolly good shunt, a big piece to cut out of there as well...

Peter.

JDNSW

23rd November 2016, 08:20 PM

...........and also the one running under the gearbox has had a jolly good shunt, a big piece to cut out of there as well...

Peter.

Pretty much normal condition for that crossmember!

John

OneOff

24th November 2016, 07:49 AM

Some goodies arrived yesterday from Cox&Turner...
:D:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/177.jpg

Dark61

4th December 2016, 01:03 PM

Are these any good to you Mate ? I can take from different angles if you want. This is off my 75 Diesel.
cheers,
D

OneOff

5th December 2016, 07:52 AM

Thanks Dark61, as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

It's pretty much as I thought, and won't take much to fabricate something along the same lines for the battery stand. The air cleaner support is a different story; the original being cut off and thrown to the tip years ago, it's going to push my skills to replace that. What does the top of the bracket look like? It's cut off in your photo.

russellrovers

5th December 2016, 09:52 AM

Dark61

5th December 2016, 02:11 PM

Here we go.

cheers,
D

OneOff

5th December 2016, 03:12 PM

Ta mate.

Your lawn looks worse than mine...

OneOff

5th December 2016, 03:14 PM

Mr russellrovers,

When the time comes I'll give you a call; it seems you have a lot of stuff I need.

OneOff

6th December 2016, 10:54 AM

Un-Holdening the chassis...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/826.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/827.jpg

...and the wheels finally coming off.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/828.jpg

Off to the sandblaster...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-ktsh22s/0/L/WP_20161205_002-L.jpg

cheers,
Peter.

Johnno1969

6th December 2016, 10:24 PM

I love seeing Land Rovers being un-Holdened.

Keep up the great work! She's looking good.

John

OneOff

7th December 2016, 07:44 PM

Well, that was quick.

Back from the bead blasting, and with a coat of undercoat to keep the rust demons at bay...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/793.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/794.jpg

Are you ready for some of the worst farm welding you will ever see?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/795.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-fs3w5BN/0/L/IMG_0033-L.jpg

Frankensteins neck was stitched on better...

JDNSW

7th December 2016, 07:47 PM

Seems to have held up fairly well!

John

TimNZ

7th December 2016, 07:55 PM

Doesn't look too much worse than the factory welding on my chassis!

Does look nice and solid though :)

Cheers,

OneOff

9th December 2016, 10:10 AM

Thoughts from the Brains Trust please.

That dodgy welding on the brackets that hold the engine mounts was obviously done as part of the Holden conversion, and the left hand bracket looks to have come of a Holden itself. This means the brackets must have been moved from their original positions, and I am willing to cut them off to reinstate them but I have no idea where they should be relocated to, I assume it would need to be millimetre perfect to avoid any number of alignment/vibration/wear issues down the track.

I have searched all the usual suppliers but none seem to supply those particular chassis parts.

My thoughts are to cut the current bits out and clean it up, try to locate some replacements, then assemble the motor (when I get it back) with the gearbox and block mounts and the new bits and carefully lower it into the chassis based on using the gearbox mounting points.
This will give me the correct distance front to back, but not up and down, if that makes sense...

Anyway, that's my thoughts...

Can anyone help with -
1. Locating someone to sell me these pieces?
2. Any other suggestions on how to correctly position them for welding?
3. Anything else?

Thanks,
Peter.

67hardtop

9th December 2016, 11:04 AM

I think the only way you will get the original style mounts will be to cut them out of a beyond repair chassis, no point in damaging a repairable chassis. You might find the correct locations by looking in an old workshop manual. There were chassis specifications in original workshop manuals. Couple pics attatched. These are s2, s2a chassis specs from a s2, s2a manual. Hope they help you.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

OneOff

9th December 2016, 09:57 PM

Thanks Rod,

So I can see they are 835mm forward of the gearbox support crossmember, but it's blurry and I can't make out the vertical height. Is it dimension "S" = 121mm?
I have this manual for the series 1 but not the series 2 and there are chassis dimensions in there, but I don't want to take the chance it may be different.

I will chase up on the wrecked chassis idea, perhaps the HoHars can help...

Thanks,
Peter

JDNSW

10th December 2016, 06:40 AM

Dimension 'S' is 121mm, but that is not the height of the engine mounts, it is the distance below datum of the mounting holes for the steering box/bulkhead support. The chassis diagram does not show the height measurement of the engine mounts, although it does show the plan position measurement.

John

The ho har's

10th December 2016, 09:11 AM

Thanks for the PM You are doing an excellent job :cool:

We have most bits you need here :) And can help with parts :D

Mrs hh:angel:

The ho har's

11th December 2016, 07:14 PM

Was nice meeting you today :) I hope Harry gave you some good welding tips;) Looking forward to seeing at one of the SLOw Club meetings:D

Mrs hh:angel:

OneOff

11th December 2016, 09:56 PM

Thank you Mrs HH,

It was good to meet you both, and if anyone could use welding tips it'd be me.

A fascinating place you have there, sort of like Willy Wonkers Chocolate Factory for roverphiles... so many bits I need...

The parts Harry gave me have been prepped and sandblasted and hopefully installed this week. I'll post pics of the results when I'm done, providing my welds are suitable for public examination. :)

Peter.

OneOff

18th December 2016, 08:38 AM

Right! Job done. So here's some pictures as promised.

When I arrived at the HoHars Harry was busy with the gas axe cutting these out of a sad old chassis

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/389.jpg

I trimmed them up and gave them a hit in the sandblaster, then removed the old mounts and ground them back.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/390.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/391.jpg

I put a string line between the gearbox mounting holes and using a metre ruler clamped to a square, I could clamp the new bits exactly 835mm from there as per the Workshop manual diagram.
Then it was just a matter of cutting down each side and removing the offending piece.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/392.jpg

I drilled three 1/4" holes down each side, this allowed me to attach some backing plates, this has the dual benefits of adding strength to the join, and helping me to not blow gaping holes with my welder (thanks for that tip Harry)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/393.jpg

So from there. I welded, ground back, welded some more, more grinding, clean up with the flap disc, and a touch of primer...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/394.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/395.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/396.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/397.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/398.jpg

Looks pretty good to me and I know it's a lot stronger than it was.

I'm lucky I picked a Series Land Rover to restore, and lucky to be only a half hour from a place like the HoHars. The sheer number of these vehicles that were produced virtually unchanged for so many years means even the oddest parts can be found out there somewhere. And the uncomplicated nature of the construction means a numpty like me can even make a decent job of it.

Peter.

OneOff

18th December 2016, 09:06 AM

So without further ado there was nothing else for it but to move onto the painting stage.

So on to the rotisserie...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/386.jpg

Up went the spray booth, in real life a SCA temporary carport...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/387.jpg

the first coat of satin black applied...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/388.jpg

...and before you know it I had this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/362.jpg

:angel:

67hardtop

18th December 2016, 09:34 AM

Damn that looks good. And Harry giving away secrets too. Good man Harry. U could have put some coating on the inside of the chassis while u had the sides cut out maybe? Or i spose while its on ur rotisserie you could spray something inside the cavity and let it dry. I used fish oil and turned my chassis over in all 4 angles leaving it to run into all the seams and corners. Just a bit of preventative maintenance for the future.
Good job.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

Johnno1969

18th December 2016, 10:37 PM

...and before you know it I had this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/362.jpg

:angel:

It must be all in the wrist.

The ho har's

19th December 2016, 08:48 AM

...and before you know it I had this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/362.jpg

:angel:

ummm... I think not but soon though:D

Mrs hh:angel:

OneOff

19th December 2016, 11:33 AM

It must be all in the wrist.

...just trying to keep up to your standards John... :o

OneOff

26th December 2016, 07:08 PM

Working on the steering relay today, which probably didn't need it bit I thought I'd have a look. I should learn to leave well enough alone!

First this...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/160.jpg

...being a bit overzealous with the hammer, trying to "free it up" a bit.

And then this...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/161.jpg

Ripped the housing completely out of it trying to ease the relay out with the Porta-Power ...just not my day.

So now I've got a major repair to something that was probably ok anyway. :censored:

TimNZ

26th December 2016, 07:13 PM

That's a bugger :( Is the relay shaft ok? (I'm changing my relay, so if you want the casing you can have it).

Cheers,

OneOff

26th December 2016, 09:32 PM

That's kind of you Tim,
I haven't had a good look at the shaft yet, ran out of daylight today.
If it's good I will take you up on that. I'll PM you.

Peter

OneOff

1st February 2017, 02:26 PM

I haven't updated this thread for a while; there's been a bit going on at Chez' Barney... including a whirlwind trip to the UK, where seeing as how I was there, I had a look at the "Land Rover Reborn Experience".
Bloody good it was too... but I can see the day coming when you won't be able to find an old Landy for love or money; they are digging them up from all over the world and have no intention of stopping... by the way, if you have the first Series 1 in your shed you are a rich man, Land Rover will pay you handsomely for it...

After botching my steering relay TimNZ very kindly sent me his old one, It's sitting on my bench waiting for a few parts before reassembly. Thanks Tim.

Of course the front cross-member was mangled, possibly repairable but when you consider it had already been patched where the radiator cut-out for the Holden conversion was, I thought the best plan of action was to replace it wholly.

Craddocks to the rescue...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/735.jpg

...cracked the old one out; and a quick tidy up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/736.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/737.jpg

And nicely welded in; not by me, it's way above my standard!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/738.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/739.jpg

Yesterday I went to visit the heart of the matter...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/740.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/741.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/742.jpg

...I'm in love..!

so now we're up to axles and diffs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/743.jpg

Thought I'd start with the rear axle; it looks a bit easier :)

Lots of stuff turning up in the mail lately -
Road springs, shackles, U-bolts, bushes, basically all the bouncy bits will be new... a couple of the springs had broken leaves and some leaves were almost worn to half their original thickness and only a matter of time before more of them break, so I figure at 58 years old they're getting replaced whether needed or not.
I could of bought parabolic springs for about the same money, but I'm trying to keep this project as original as possible.

My thanks to everybody working on their rebuilds past and present; it keeps me inspired and motivated.
As everybody else is finding, the bills are getting scary; I'll really have to pull my head in soon...

Cheers,
Peter.

TimNZ

1st February 2017, 04:36 PM

You'd have to be happy with the result on the front cross member, and that engine is looking great!

As everybody else is finding, the bills are getting scary; I'll really have to pull my head in soon...

(I should have pulled my head in quite some time ago!!! :angel: )

Cheers,

Tim

Johnno1969

5th February 2017, 10:21 PM

Hey Peter,

The work you are doing on your Landy looks amazing. Very impressive! I know what you mean about the bills: the obvious alternatives are, like you say, reining things in a bit.... or just ploughing ahead, surviving on nuts and shoots and boiled nettles and getting the Landy done and dusted.

I hear that nettles are actually quite nice.

Keep up the great work!

John

OneOff

6th February 2017, 11:55 AM

Thanks lads,

I remember thinking when I picked it up from the farm,"a couple grand tops and I'll have a cool Land Rover to ride around in". Hahahaha...

Actually a couple of grand might have done it if I'd stuck to the Holden engine and didn't strip it down or worry about painting it. The engine is where the big money has gone so far, but it's nearly finished now so the costs (may) slow down after then.

I really can't see me stopping on this project, it's obsessing me... I've become the guy people avoid at parties, I just stand in the corner by myself mumbling about diff ratios and positive earth systems...

And nettles are tasty...

grey_ghost

6th February 2017, 12:26 PM

Next thing you will find once you've finished this project, that you decide to buy another... And then when you are half way through that restoration, a couple of bargains pop up - and you decide that the price is too good to let them go, and then.. Well.. You have to build a big shed to put them all in!!! :angel::wasntme:

OneOff

9th February 2017, 12:06 PM

So my swivel boxes(?) are packed with grease. Is this right? Shouldn't it be gear oil or something? They have a drain plug and a fill plug so I assume oil...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/482.jpg

Advice please. :confused:

TimNZ

9th February 2017, 03:02 PM

Yeah, should be oil, my ones had grease in them as well, probably for the simple reason that it takes longer to leak out.

Cheers,

JDNSW

9th February 2017, 03:46 PM

Yes, all Series swivels are specified to be filled with oil, and it does matter. The problem is that grease, once pushed away from a surface, does not flow back, but the biggest issue is that the top swivel bearing is a fibre (Tufnol) bush. This relies for lubrication on oil soaking through it, and grease is not good at "soaking through". The result is early wear of the top bush and swivel pin. (You will also get this if you run most of the time with disengaged free wheel hubs - need to spin the shafts every few days to oil the top swivel.)

Certainly, the swivels are most likely to have been filled with grease because it leaks out less, but ironically, a prime cause for leakage is a worn top bearing allowing the seal to move away from the ball.

Note that it is acceptable to fill the swivel with the "one-shot" semi-liquid grease that is specified by Landrover for filling swivels from the mid 1990s. This flows well enough to meet the lubrication requirements, but does not leak as easily.

John

1950landy

9th February 2017, 05:22 PM

67hardtop

9th February 2017, 05:36 PM

I have been using floating grease in my 80 inch for years . It is the type of grease they use in the gearboxes of drills & grinders which is a molly grease mixed with gear oil . Has worked well & do not have any leaks.
Thats how i had done mine in Betsy with half oil and a full shot of swivel grease. The railcos were great as were the driveshaft uni's. No leaks. Freewheeling hubs only ever used on the beach or sandpit.

Cheers Rod

OneOff

11th February 2017, 08:48 PM

67hardtop

11th February 2017, 08:58 PM

Its probably a modification to make the steering lighter. The later defenders have this arrangement. U have to make sure that u have no play in the bearings they need to be preloaded hence the shims, or they will hammer themselves to bits.

Cheers Rod

OneOff

11th February 2017, 09:25 PM

Thanks Rod.
How are you handling the heat? Pretty crook down your way today. 39 degrees here at 2pm today... and about 99 percent humidity. I was wearing a headband like a 90's tennis player in the shed today to try to keep the sweat out of my eyes...

So I can assume my swivel box arrangements are definitely not from 1958??

Peter.

B.S.F.

11th February 2017, 09:48 PM

For about the first two years of production (48-50) L/R's had taper roller bearings top and bottom.
.W.

OneOff

11th February 2017, 09:48 PM

So I'm looking at my hubs... some missing studs and the threads are flogged out; would you put Helicoils in these? Is it safe? Is it legal?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/346.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/347.jpg

Peter.

OneOff

11th February 2017, 09:52 PM

My shed is slowly filling up with bits and pieces.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/344.jpg

Listening to Chris Rea today, "King of the Beach"; here's "King of the Shed"...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/345.jpg

OneOff

11th February 2017, 09:57 PM

For about the first two years of production (48-50) L/R's had taper roller bearings top and bottom.
.W.

Interesting... 10years prior to my Rover... but also later in Defenders according to Rod... well I think I'm getting a bit confused...

67hardtop

11th February 2017, 10:55 PM

Well u never know, someone may have put an earlier front diff assy in it 55 years ago. Unless u had it from new, anything could have happened in the past. I didnt know about the early s1 having top n bottom bearings.
Good luck with it. It obviously works coz its lasted this long.😆

Cheers Rod

JDNSW

12th February 2017, 06:54 AM

All good information lads, and thanks.

John, I do not have "Tufnol" bushes, neither do I have a spring arrangement as my parts list catalogue for a 1958 shows; I have taper bearings upper and lower, with external shims to adjust them. Is this yet another variation? Possibly from a later year?

Peter.

As noted, early Landrovers had taper roller bearings top and bottom - and were plagued with wheel shimmy. A very early fix for this was the steering relay with two tufnol bushes instead of one plus a bearing. The change was offered free retrospectively to all Landrovers 86001-861900 in April 1949, and was almost certainly fitted to all of them.

Some time after this, to further address the shimmy issue, the top swivel bearing was replaced by a spring loaded cone friction bearing, which in turn was changed to the more familiar tufnol bush and thrust washer during early Series 2a production.

Rangerover and coil spring Landrovers reverted to the tapered roller bearings top and bottom, with shimmy being less of an issue due to the more consistent geometry possible with coil springs, and the increasing use of properly balanced tyres.

Many today may not realise that until the 1970s, balancing of tyres was not routine, was relatively expensive, usually reserved for high speed cars, and was rarely done for utility vehicles. Often seen as a last thing to check, I remember (would have been 1964) an issue one of our mechanics had with wheel shimmy on a Landrover - having checked all the mechanical issues and replaced a couple of tie rod ends, adjusted preload etc, as a last resort, got the front wheels balanced. One of the front wheels was 26 ounces (close to a kilo) out of balance. Removing the tyre revealed a half circle sleeve had been fitted! Move the tyre to the back, problem solved.

John

OneOff

12th February 2017, 09:04 AM

Brilliant reply as always John, your vast knowledge is certainly a huge asset to this community.

So what's the best course of action?

Keep the taper bearings as is? (I don't like the idea of wheel shimmy)
Change to the bush and spring as per the parts catalogue?
Change to the tufnol bushs as per the later models?

Will the chrome swivel balls be the same regardless? Or will they need to be changed depending on which way I go?

Wow, six questions in a row... I appreciate your tolerance everybody, but I'm a bit stuck on this.

Peter

chazza

12th February 2017, 09:27 AM

Change to railko bushes - they do work!

The swivels stay the same.

I converted my S1 to railko by making a swivel pin and pressing in the new parts,

Cheers Charlie

JDNSW

12th February 2017, 11:33 AM

I'm inclined to agree with Chazza, go to the Railko bushes. As long as it is not an 80" axle, the ball housing is the same, but if you have the pendant tie rod ends (arm on top of the swivel) I think you need a conversion pin to fit the arm.

On the other hand, if it works without shimmy with the bearings, there is no reson not to leave it that way.

While in theory the top bearing gives lighter steering, the difference, by the time you take into account the reduction gearing of the steering box, will be imperceptible. Almost all the steering effort on Series Landrovers, as with any car without power steering, is tyre drag at parking speeds and self centring at higher speeds. (unless your swivels and/or relay are rust lubricated!)

John

chazza

12th February 2017, 05:16 PM

So I'm looking at my hubs... some missing studs and the threads are flogged out; would you put Helicoils in these? Is it safe? Is it legal?
...
Peter.

As long as the holes are still round and the PCD can be found, I can see no reason why Helicoils would not be a safe option. Probably the best way to enlarge the holes for the Helicoils, would be to use a rotary table and a milling machine, as a drill bit may wander if the holes are not round.

Remember that the end of the wheel stud is peened over once installed, which should be done with the new ones; however; the peening can let go eventually, so some high-strength Loctite on the Helicoil and stud is a good precaution.

As an aside; I think one reason the peening can let go, is because of rust on the wheel nuts and studs. I am in the group that believes in using grease, oil, or anti-seize, on wheel studs and tightening them with a torque wrench,

Cheers Charlie

OneOff

24th February 2017, 10:00 AM

test post...

119788

still can't seem to load pictures from smugmug, although they show up in preview :confused:

OneOff

24th February 2017, 10:20 AM

The helicoil problem has been solved - I've bought a spare 88" and a another (broken) rolling chassis for parts, I'll pick that up this arvo... I'll have eight extra hubs to chose from, there should be a couple of good ones in all that!

OneOff

24th February 2017, 01:16 PM

I'd like the advice/opinion of the brains trust please.

I fitted the front springs on the weekend, and then the front axle. :banana:

But it didn't look quite right... the axle was not square to the chassis, and the shackles were not at the same angle. The passenger side was fairly vertical but the drivers side was pulled quite forward. I know the engine isn't in yet and the geometry will change once that happens, but I just want to make sure I get it right at this stage, it's easier to fix now then when the truck is back together.

119791

119792

I took it all apart again, did a few measurements and found the drivers side (241283) is shorter eye to eye and deeper than the passenger side (242863), however measured around the arc they are the same length.
Fair enough, I know they are sided, but shouldn't the one with the greater bend be on the passenger side, to compensate for the greater weight of the motor/gearbox?
I did contact Paddocks because at first I thought I had been sent a faulty spring. They humored me by going out and measuring several sets in stock; "they're all like that" they said. (Is this true?)

Am I wrong? should the shorter spring with the deeper set be on the drivers side or the passenger (engine) side?

I'm sure there are plenty of people out there who have been down this path and could advise me.

Thanks,
Peter.

JDNSW

24th February 2017, 03:27 PM

.....
Fair enough, I know they are sided, but shouldn't the one with the greater bend be on the passenger side, to compensate for the greater weight of the motor/gearbox?
I did contact Paddocks because at first I thought I had been sent a faulty spring. They humored me by going out and measuring several sets in stock; "they're all like that" they said. (Is this true?)

Am I wrong? should the shorter spring with the deeper set be on the drivers side or the passenger (engine) side?

I'm sure there are plenty of people out there who have been down this path and could advise me.

Thanks,
Peter.

No, the driver's side has more weight than the passenger. The engine and gearbox might be offset to the left, but not by very much, but the transfer case, unsprung part of prop shafts, battery, fuel tank, steering gear and driver are offset a lot further to the right. The springs with the more camber go on the right.

John

OneOff

24th February 2017, 08:11 PM

Ok, thank you John, I will go with that. I just wanted to make sure I got it right...

OneOff

27th February 2017, 09:26 AM

On the weekend I picked up a couple of parts donors, an S-2a and an S-3 chassis/firewall. The back of the S-2a is full of various bits and pieces, mostly rusty rubbish; I'll go through that and pull out anything worthwhile. Plus a non-runner 2 1/4 motor and gearbox. No use to me but it all came as a job lot.
So at some point in the future I will have an Isuzu diesel with gearbox/transfer case, a 2 1/4 petrol with gearbox/transfer case, and a 186 Holden engine all for sale.
Give me a PM if you need anything...

119907 119908 119909

Looks like a pile of rubbish overall but it will save me a heap in parts...

Peter.

TimNZ

27th February 2017, 09:42 AM

Wow, that's an interesting bumper on the last one!

Cheers,

OneOff

27th February 2017, 10:38 AM

Wow, that's an interesting bumper on the last one!

Cheers,

Yeah, it's unique all right... the chassis is nearly broken in two just behind where that bumper is welded on. I reckon they used the poor thing as a bulldozer. [bigsad]

A serious case of Land Rover abuse I think... :bat:

OneOff

28th February 2017, 10:55 PM

So I went around to the engine rebuilders today, everything is coming along fine. It's been painted - what an awful colour that Duck Egg Blue/Light Admiralty Gray is... still, that's the way it was so that's the way it is again.

Will handed me a half dozen bolts off the flywheel to be replaced. Now, these bolts go in from the front of the flywheel (from the side against the engine) with a washer and nut to the rear of the clutch housing. Looking in my parts catalogue, for a 2ltr petrol they should be inserted from the rear and no nut so the flywheel should be threaded.
I think my flywheel may have come from a diesel, in the parts catalogue they have that "insert from the front" set up. If that's so it doesn't really surprise me... a lot can happen in 60 years of life, especially when a good deal of that time was spent as a farm truck with several other Land Rovers in various states of disrepair. The Land Rover graveyard he had would even impress Harry...

So here's my questions...

1. Is that even possible? Can a diesel flywheel fit on a petrol engine?
2. Does it matter? Can I just go with what I've got rather than having to buy another flywheel?
3. Will there be implications when it comes time to fit up the clutch? Is it the same clutch plate - diesel or petrol?

As always, looking forward to advice and guidance from my pit crew,

Peter.

p.s. Tomorrow I have another question regarding axle drive flanges, this requires a picture and it's too late for that now...

JDNSW

1st March 2017, 05:25 AM

I don't know whether the flywheels is interchangeable between the 2l and the diesel - but I would certainly not be surprised if they were; after all, they come from the same factory, and both were designed in the same drawing office.

I would also point out that the parts book, especially the drawings, are not always an accurate representation - if small changes are made, it is not always worth redoing the drawing to show both the old and the new. After all, while the parts book is very useful to show how things go together, it is really only illustrated to help identify parts for ordering.

I would go with what you have. Even if it is a diesel flywheel, the only substantive difference is that it is heavier. I doubt it is actually a diesel flywheel, although it could be.

The diesel clutch can be fitted to the petrol engine in the 2.25 engine, but I am not sure whether the 2l clutch is the same.

OneOff

2nd March 2017, 10:53 AM

A few photos to go with my last post, I'm still getting used to the new forum; it seems I can't edit my posts after 24 hours or so.

Here's the engine in all it's glory -

120065 120066

The first photo is a fairly accurate representation of the colour, the second was in shadow and didn't come out so well.
Tucked in behind in that first photo all wrapped in plastic is a 1950's vintage Alfa-Romeo V6 engine all finished and ready for pick up by the owner... alas, I don't think it will fit in a Land Rover... [bigwhistle]

And here's Will - engine builder extraordinaire with a passion for old motors -

120067

Dgd69

2nd March 2017, 01:19 PM

Looks fantastic coming together

OneOff

5th March 2017, 10:18 AM

I have a new set of check straps. Right hand 237100 & left hand 274469.
one is 830 mm long and the other is 862 long.

Which is left and which is right? They have no numbers on them to identify them.

Dinty

5th March 2017, 10:46 AM

If the longer one has the part number for the RHS then I would be fitting it to that side, as the springs are handed (R&L) the right is supposed to have more set than the left, to compensate for the weight of the driver/full tank of fuel and battery, cheers Dennis

OneOff

5th March 2017, 02:33 PM

And that's the problem; neither strap has a part number on it. They just came loose in a box of parts I got from Paddocks.

OneOff

6th March 2017, 10:07 AM

I put the steering relay back together yesterday, as always I forgot to keep taking photos around halfway through.
But it all went with incident and is now installed in the chassis. Another one to tick off the list. [bigsmile]

I was surprised how hard it was to turn once installed, in fact I had to put a lever bar on it to get any movement at all; is this normal?
And it got me thinking - what is the purpose of the steering relay? Apart from transferring movement from above the chassis to below it which could be achieved with a simple shaft and a couple of bearings. What is the purpose of that big spring? It just seems to serve to make the steering heavier than it needs to be. Is it some sort of primitive steering damper?

Here is my take on the spring squashing process...

120235 120236 120237

Filling it full of oil was super easy, it took 1 and a bit of these and about 10 minutes to fill it to the top.

120238

Sorry all the photos are on the side; you can always tip your computer up. [bigwhistle]

Cheers,
Peter.

1950landy

6th March 2017, 10:57 AM

If the shaft has a hole through the side you don't need to compress the spring like that. All you do is clamo the split busfed on one end then put the spring on thecshaft & put a screw driver through the hole then wind the spring down. Then clamp the other bush in place . Then it is onlyba matter of driving the adsembly inti the housing.[bighmmm]

JDNSW

6th March 2017, 11:04 AM

Yes, it is a friction damper, and I suppose it does make the steering a bit heavier, although with the gearing of the steering box and leverage of the steering wheel, you can't feel much from the driver's position.

The first Landrovers only had the friction damping on the bottom, and a roller bearing at the top, but after a few months production were changed to the one that remained virtually unchanged until the end of Series production. And it was offered as a free retrofit to all that had been sold with the early relay - almost certainly, all were fitted with them. It was necessary to tame wheel wobble.

Additional damping is provided by the swivel top bushes.

Note that hydraulic dampers were not even an option until about the end of Series 1, and were never fitted as standard to any Series Landrovers, although they were fitted to all Australian Series 3, almost certainly as a marketing requirement. They are not necessary for normal use, being useful only when driving on very rough ground.

OneOff

19th March 2017, 09:36 PM

Yes I do... [bigsmile1]

120724 120725

I'd procrastinated long enough! This was the weekend I would fit the swivel balls and railko bushes...

I took it all to work on Friday to make use of the big press in the Workshop. Bearing cups and Railko bushes went in the freezer for 20 minutes while the chalices went into the pie warmer, the paint on them was heating up nicely and filling the smoko room with wonderous odours when I came back... which didn't go down so well with the fitters who were there eating their lunch!
It all went together quite well, there is no substitute for having the right tools for the job.

I bought a $5 fish scale from BCF (which might be the equivalent of the two bob watch) and found some very good "how to's" on the internet. With a nice rainy weekend forecast, it was the perfect excuse to get some work done in the shed.
Decided setting up shims is a bit of a black art, I ended up using up all the supplied ones in the Railko conversion kit, plus all the old ones I originally removed. Hope I got it right...
But anyway, here it is...

120726

I got so excited by all this action I threw some wheels on and pushed it out into the yard. HOORAY!!!

120727

So there you go. After four or five months, I can't really remember, Barney is finally back on his feet.

Cheers,
Peter.

ezyrama

20th March 2017, 10:17 AM

Following this one with much interest, looking good Peter.

OneOff

20th March 2017, 11:46 AM

Following this one with much interest, looking good Peter.

Hey Ian, I thought we would have bumped into each other before now... how's Ralph going?

Dgd69

20th March 2017, 12:50 PM

Look good mate

OneOff

20th March 2017, 02:17 PM

Time to think about a carburetor and a starter motor...

What do I need to look for? Keeping in mind it's a 2.0 lt Series 1 spreadbore.

JDNSW

20th March 2017, 04:37 PM

Carbie is Solex, but I don't know the model. Starter is Lucas, but again I don't know the mode, Models should be in the workshop manual.

John

OneOff

21st March 2017, 08:34 AM

I contacted the guy I got the truck from; he has these -

120810 120809 I think this is the one I need??

The Webers are an unusual looking thing... what would they fit?

Peter.

ezyrama

21st March 2017, 11:48 AM

Hey Ian, I thought we would have bumped into each other before now... how's Ralph going?

Ralph's Good Thanks Peter, I haven't had much of a chance to drive him lately.
We have been flat out all summer. Hopefully get a chance to go for a run this weekend.
I was away for the last GCLRO club meeting on the bike, might see you at the next one.
Cheers Ian

OneOff

19th April 2017, 12:55 PM

Aarrg... I fell off the front page... [tonguewink]

It's been a long time since I've updated, and to tell the truth there's not a lot of progress.

Well, it's not my fault! The good wife has returned after a long absence in the UK (looking after her ailing mum), so being in the shed until 10 o'clock most nights for my daily dose of all things Land Rover has turned into some snatched time on a Saturday - if I'm lucky...

Not to worry, small things are happening still, and the enthusiasm is still there.
I'll get a few photos together and do an update soon...

Don't forget me now ... [bigsmile1]

OneOff

12th May 2017, 09:57 AM

I am having trouble locating one of these -

123206

It's the "water pump inlet pipe" #277508.Connecting the bottom radiator hose to the water pump. (2 lt Series 1 engine)

None of the usual parts suppliers seem to have one and neither does Harry. I suppose I can always make something up, it's a pretty straightforward looking piece.

Thoughts?

1950landy

12th May 2017, 11:37 AM

I tried to make one for my 80" was going to get a few done to reduce cost but I could not find eny one in Brisbane that could supply correct size pipe & also every one I tried said they did not have the correct size dies to bend it. I think you would need to sand fill it & heat it to bend it. Good luck with it , let me know if you do any good , I will need to replace mine eventually.
I have a spare one here but it is very thin & has rusted through in a couple of places.

1950landy

12th May 2017, 11:51 AM

Just looked at Craddock's site they have in S2 section page 4 of cooling a lower metal pipe for a 2.6Lit for 36.73 pounds not sure if they are the same as the 2 Lit. One of the brains trust may know.

OneOff

12th May 2017, 12:58 PM

I have a spare one here but it is very thin & has rusted through in a couple of places.

Well hang on to it mate; it's turning out to be very hard to find.
I had a look at the craddocks one you seen, and I found an image of it online somewhere, as far as I can see it's not the same piece.

I dropped mine off at the local exhaust pipe shop, they reckon they will do it for about $60. Time will tell.

Thanks.

1950landy

12th May 2017, 02:02 PM

I took my spare to a custom exhaust shop who specialized in extractors for exoctic cars they said they could not do it . If you have success I will be interested for when the one on the car needs replacing.

OneOff

12th May 2017, 02:08 PM

You'll hear it here first! [wink11]

gromit

12th May 2017, 05:26 PM

chazza

12th May 2017, 10:47 PM

I have had great difficulty sourcing the 1" i.d. Tube so I can't make any more at the moment,

Cheers Charlie

1950landy

13th May 2017, 02:32 PM

That was the problem I had , even tried Enzed & Pertek for hydraulic pipe.

chazza

13th May 2017, 03:57 PM

It may have even reached the stage where I need to make the tube!

Who ever thought only a few years ago that some common steel sizes would become unavailable!

Guess that is what happens when manufacturers close or move overseas.

JDNSW

13th May 2017, 06:57 PM

It is also probably a result of metrication - inch sizes have probably been replaced by metric sizes I suspect.

chazza

13th May 2017, 07:11 PM

It is also probably a result of metrication - inch sizes have probably been replaced by metric sizes I suspect.

Not necessarily; small flat bar such as 12 x 3 is hard to find and most steel was metricated by 1980 in Australia.

Pipe and tube remained largely in imperial sizes because so much equipment needs to be maintained and the cost to the economy of changing everyone to metric pipe threads would have been too much.

Think about how many fabricators have closed down recently as more plant is manufactured in Asia. The mining and automotive suppliers have been hit hard.

Recently I rang a speciality steel supplier in Perth and found myself talking to a man in Melbourne; the Perth warehouse had closed despite the size of WA's mining industry!

Chops

14th May 2017, 08:22 AM

What a great thread Peter, your doing an amazing job with him.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product rolling, or should I say driving out the shed door. [biggrin]

OneOff

15th May 2017, 09:40 AM

Greetings Rover-tragics,

It’s been a while between drinks, and I’ve made some progress to report and bring the thread up to date.
On last report I had finished the swivels, had thrown on some wheels and without ceremony rolled Barney out of the shed.

123311

Since then I’ve painted the wheels –

123312

And fitted some tyres.

I know they’re more on-road oriented than off-road, but that will be Barney’s environment, mostly road and occasional off-road, so I’m satisfied with that. The compound seems a little soft so we shall see how long they last.

123380

The parts pile has been building up, a few packages from overseas including a full new wiring harness from Auto Sparks, and electronic ignition system from Powerspark Ignition. Both are reputable dealers according to this forum.
Also a new clutch, a gearbox and T/C service kit, so it was just a matter of getting some time together to get a few things done…

Which I managed this past weekend.

The flywheel being fitted up -

123313

Anti-spin device –

123314

Clutch plate alignment device – pilfered from a spare gearbox I had sitting around. Amazing how this stuff just seems to accumulate almost without any help from me… well, the wife’s pretty amazed anyway…

123315

So with that done, it was time to take a little journey –

123316

123317

123318

123320

tbc...

OneOff

15th May 2017, 09:48 AM

The pit crew…
Me -
123321
…and the boss.
123322

Now I’m REALLY excited!!!
123323

It's good to be at the stage where 5 minutes working on the Rover doesn't result in filthy grubby hands and stink!

Next on the agenda?
…this thing.
123324

Another job for a professional I think...

Over and out for now [bigsmile1]
Peter.

1950landy

15th May 2017, 12:49 PM

TimNZ

15th May 2017, 08:09 PM

Looking really good mate!

Cheers,

OneOff

26th May 2017, 06:56 AM

I need to buy an alternator now, what should I be looking for/avoiding?

What have others out there used?

incisor

26th May 2017, 08:04 AM

I used a generic Bosch and had the pulley machined it aligned as it should

whitehillbilly64

4th June 2017, 06:14 PM

I used one of these from Repco, on my S111
Gilbert (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/208029-gilbert-40.html)

whitehillbilly

Johnno1969

4th June 2017, 09:01 PM

Brilliant thread. Looking wonderful. Thanks for the terrific posts.

John

OneOff

5th June 2017, 07:44 AM

I dropped mine off at the local exhaust pipe shop, they reckon they will do it for about $60. Time will tell.

Thanks.

You'll hear it here first! [wink11]

Well they made me one... out of 1" O.D. instead of 1" I.D. pipe. The bend was wrong, the angle of the flange plate was wrong. Pretty useless really... [bigsad]

However I located one from a member who gave me one for the right price [thumbsupbig]

OneOff

15th June 2017, 08:37 AM

Cap

15th June 2017, 08:58 AM

Not sure why you found these original filters to be difficult to find, I had no problem buying mine off evilbay and there was loads more available. However, if you want to do the conversion for simplicity, then it may be good to go that way anyway.

Nice to know that these housings are available from LR donks.

Cheers,

JDNSW

15th June 2017, 03:51 PM

Never had any issues finding the standard filters - I get them from the local filter specialist, but Repco have them as well.

gromit

15th June 2017, 05:30 PM

I went to buy an oil filter yesterday, I have the original canister type.

Apparently these cartridge types are scarce and it was recommended if possible to convert it to a spin on type. Much easier to get a filter for it and less mess come oil change time.
After doing a bit of research on the net, rather than buy an adapter, it seems you can use a stock LR oil filter housing from a 2.5 engine (petrol or diesel) for the 2.25 donk.

Could I use this same part on the 2.0 lt?

No idea whether it's the same for the 2.0litre but where are you going to get the filter housing from a 2.5 ? There are aftermarket adaptors available but they are quite expensive.

The standard filter is readily available, slightly messier than a spin-on filter but how often do you intend to change the oil ?

I have one fitted by a previous owner to my Series IIa Dormobile but my Series I has the standard filter.

Colin

Gordie

15th June 2017, 05:34 PM

bah...just buy the cartridge filters...and do the oil change in winter...the sensation of warm oil running down your arms on a winters day is wonderful. Makes one feel alive and mechanically inclined. [smilebigeye]

OneOff

16th June 2017, 06:45 AM

Hmm... looks like I've been given a bum steer then. [bighmmm] I will stick with the cartridge.

Anybody got a code for me?

Cap

16th June 2017, 07:11 AM

Hmm... looks like I've been given a bum steer then. [bighmmm] I will stick with the cartridge.

Anybody got a code for me?

LOL - reading the posts I laughed as it sure looks that way. I was interested in seeing what mod you made on it. Good point about the motor, the 2a is the 2.25 so not sure on the S2. Sorry, I retract my statement if its not the 2.25ltr.

Cheers,

Gordie

16th June 2017, 08:21 AM

The Ryco number for my cartridge filter is R2069P. Note that is for the 'short' filter....there is also a 'long' filter..which has a ryco number one side or other of the aforementioned number, from memory, something like R2068P. RTC3184 is a number which the likes of LRDirect use.

OneOff

16th June 2017, 09:00 AM

I reckon it might be this one.

124663

Gordie

16th June 2017, 09:38 AM

That looks like the long one...just have a quick measure of your filter housing to establish if it is the short or long. Could be either, mine is the short.

B.S.F.

16th June 2017, 10:04 AM

As far as I know the 2L spread bore never had a short one. The filter you want is RYCO R296P or equivalent. 2 1/4L is completely different. .W.

OneOff

16th June 2017, 10:31 AM

Thank you gents, I'm on the right path now. [thumbsupbig]

OneOff

10th July 2017, 06:58 AM

What size (cross section) fan belt should I be using?

The old generator pulley appears to be an "A" size but the water-pump and crankshaft pulleys are larger than that, possibly even a "C".
It's no good just ordering from the catalog part number, I've fitted an alternator and the length will be different, I have to get a different pulley for the alternator anyway so I can go to a bigger size if necessary.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/274.jpg

Thanks for your advice.
Peter.

Chops

10th July 2017, 09:17 AM

Not sure exactly when it comes to automotive, but as a fitter, we match them, so in your case, the alternator would be up-sized a bit I would have thought.

OneOff

12th July 2017, 11:02 AM

A little more done last weekend.

Starter motor has been tested, cleaned up and installed.

All the brake lines have also been installed. I bought a coil of 1/4 line and bent it into place, and then took it all down to Wayne at Better Brakes Southport who installed the ends on them for a couple of bucks each. Much cheaper than buying a flange tool and doing it myself.
Wayne is a brake and clutch genius!! If you are on the Gold Coast or near to it I highly recommend him.

125910 125911

I put this one where the old one came off - but it doesn't look right. Should run above the crossmember??

125912

Another milestone - installed the gearbox/transfer case...

125913 125914

A very blurry photo of it in place, I'll post up a better one at some point.

125915

That's it for now.

Cheers,
Peter.

67hardtop

12th July 2017, 11:52 AM

That brake pipe is in the right place. They changed the position in s3 and late s2a to the front x member past the steering relay. The pipe is better protected where it is IMHO. Doing good there.

Cheers Rod

OneOff

12th July 2017, 11:58 AM

Thanks Rod, good to know. It it does seem to be a bit vulnerable though, right down at the bottom like that...

67hardtop

12th July 2017, 12:02 PM

It should be above the bottom of the x member tho. My x member is bent pretty much but the pipe was ok. Its different now coz i got 4 wheel discs now and i ran the pipe across the front x member to the PWDA valve.

Cheers Rod

OneOff

17th July 2017, 09:00 AM

Hello folks!

Here's a good little story of the "measure twice - cut once" variety.

A year ago in the disassembly stages I took the prop-shafts off and put them in the restore pile.
When I eventually pulled them out to fix them up I discovered a previous owner had fixed a missing cir-clip problem with a welder and welded one of the uni cups in place!! (that'll never need replacing...[bighmmm])

126211

No problem said I, that's the exact reason I bought a parts donor... so under I go and remove the rear prop-shaft (you can probably see where this is going already...) fixed them both up, nicely painted, new uni joints all round... and today I discover I'm the proud owner of two rear prop-shafts!! [tonguewink]
Never once occurred that they might be different lengths...

126213 So now it's under the donor again to remove the front one this time, restore and more uni joints.

I have a concern about the rear one as well; I've fitted that in, but there is only about 3/4" or less of telescoping movement in it, and that's without the back being weighted. Once that all goes on it will compress further, not to mention suspension movement on the road, I'm concerned it will not have enough room to compress enough if you get my meaning. Any advice on this will be appreciated.

126214

Some more photos for your viewing pleasure...

126215 126216 126217 126218 126219

I also made up a bracket for the new alternator; 82 amp I think...

126220 126221
The alternator came with an "A" pulley but the water-pump and crank pulleys are "B" size, so I made up a new pulley to suit.

That's all this week.

Cheers,
Peter.

AJF

22nd August 2017, 09:02 PM

JDNSW

22nd August 2017, 09:43 PM

Hello folks!

.....

I have a concern about the rear one as well; I've fitted that in, but there is only about 3/4" or less of telescoping movement in it, and that's without the back being weighted. Once that all goes on it will compress further, not to mention suspension movement on the road, I'm concerned it will not have enough room to compress enough if you get my meaning. Any advice on this will be appreciated.

126214

.....
Cheers,
Peter.

The situation may not ber as bad as you might suppose. As the spring compresses the axle does not move vertically - it actually pivots around the front pin on the chassis, which, from memory, is pretty close to in line with the front U-joint on the swb. In fact, it is better than that, because the axle moves back as the spring straightens, so I think you wiill find there is not much movement on the slip joint at the rear. More movement on the lwb, but not much even there. Of course, on the front, these factors work in reverse, and there is a lot more movement. Which probably explains why the slip joints on the front shafts seem to wear a lot quicker!

OneOff

23rd August 2017, 12:21 PM

Peter

Looks great. Thanks for all the photos - I am a bit behind you with my vehicle and we spend some time checking out what your vehicle looks like.

Quick question - did you overhaul the diffs?

Cheers
Angus

Thanks Angus, that's funny... I do the same with TimNZ; happily plodding along about 10 steps behind and learning from him (and heaps of others on this forum who've done some great resto's). I hope you're not in a hurry...

I didn't overhaul the diffs. I showed them to a workmate who has restored several old Holdens and is a pretty clued up bloke. He felt they were fairly tight, and it's not a big job to drop one out and throw another in if they do fail... I thought that made sense and I went with it. Time will tell. I did do new gaskets and oil seals though.

The situation may not ber as bad as you might suppose. As the spring compresses the axle does not move vertically - it actually pivots around the front pin on the chassis, which, from memory, is pretty close to in line with the front U-joint on the swb. In fact, it is better than that, because the axle moves back as the spring straightens, so I think you wiill find there is not much movement on the slip joint at the rear. More movement on the lwb, but not much even there. Of course, on the front, these factors work in reverse, and there is a lot more movement. Which probably explains why the slip joints on the front shafts seem to wear a lot quicker!

Ah... of course! That makes perfect sense, thank you again John.

Peter.

OneOff

23rd August 2017, 12:53 PM

In a fit of impatience last Saturday we decided we'll try and start it up!

Yes I know... there's no radiator hooked up etc, etc... but it's been a long time since the motor came back and I just wanted to hear it run - just for a second...

However, it was not to be; the old starter motor which tested ok on the bench, and which turned the motor over (sluggishly) without the plugs and fan-belt fitted refused to co-operate at all with those items back in place.[bigsad]

I have to assume it's the starter that is the problem; the battery is brand new and fully charged (plenty of sparks were flying around...), and we were jumping it directly with positive to the starter terminal and negative to the engine mount.

128421

So now I am thinking of -
a. re-building this starter
b. buying a new (Britpart or other) starter
c. spending up and getting a High-Torque Nipponsendo one.

Any advice always appreciated

Peter.

JDNSW

23rd August 2017, 01:00 PM

If the starter is sluggish, as you indicate, repairing it is relatively easy. Probably just needs new bushes and possibly brushes.

Chops

23rd August 2017, 02:25 PM

You could also try freeing it up a bit by spraying some CRC or similar onto the bearings,,, might help intermittently.

OneOff

24th August 2017, 07:44 AM

I pulled the starter apart last evening; the brushes were virtually new, the bushes were pristine,

128452

but the armature looks like this -

128451

A lot of black marking at one end.
There were no corresponding markings on the field coil or the metal plates that hold it in, which makes me think it may have been cobbled together from a couple of different units.
What could cause this, and would it interfere with the operation of the unit?

Considering the condition of the brushes and bushes; I'd say someone has had a go at restoring this previously.

JDNSW

24th August 2017, 11:28 AM

From the pictures, that looks as if it is "poling" due to wear on the bushes. They are designed to have as small an air gap as possible between the field poles and the armature for efficiency. but this means that it only takes a little bit of wear on the bushes to allow them to touch, and since in operation they are strongly magnetised, when they touch, they grab.

You can confirm this by reassembling it with the brushes removed or held back, and a drop of oil on the bushes, when you will feel it dragging as you turn it (may need to rotate the body, as it is probably worse worn in one position), but this is probably unnecessary, as simple inspection of the poles and the armature should make it clear whether they are touching.

Having the through bolts holding it together, or the screws holding the pole pieces loose can have the same effect.

Dgd69

24th August 2017, 02:35 PM

Check commutator has not lost solder we're it attaches to windings also check commutator has not got hi mica we're the brushs run this can be fixed by running a snapped hacksaw blade along the mica deep as it is wide you can also get armature tested at local ato sparky on a growler which will tell if it ok just put plates on each end and wiggle to see how much moment to test bushes and make sure none of the brushes were stuck

OneOff

28th August 2017, 08:18 AM

I finally decided to pull everything out of the back of the Donor Rover on Saturday; it's only been sitting there for eight months or so, I've never got around to going through it... you can't rush these things. [bigwhistle]
I also pulled everything out of the shipping container to tidy it up a bit and reorganize it.

Good Lord! Where did all this come from???

128615

It's amazing how this stuff just seems to accumulate...

OneOff

28th August 2017, 08:49 AM

I also re-furbished a fuel tank, I had four to choose from; the original that come with Barney, two in the donor, and another that I can't remember where I got it from...
The original has no filler tube and vent, it has an "under the seat" filler so probably an auxiliary tank from somewhere else, also it's a slightly different shape and I suspect it is from a Series 1.
The donor has two (diesel) tanks, a long range and an auxiliary.

128617 128618

I discounted the big tank, I know they are desirable but I didn't want to modify the chassis to fit it; I'll keep it for another project...I was going to fix up the smaller tank but them I found the mystery tank in the container. It was in much better nick and very dry and clean inside so I decided to go with that one.

After a hit up with the wire wheel in the angle grinder.
It was dry inside so I just had to blow it out with the air hose.
128619

And a coat of primer/filler

128620

Made a cuppa and cut a couple of gaskets and tidied up the gauge unit and outlet elbow.

128621

That looks the goods!

128622

A bit of superficial damage, not worth trying to fix

128623

I used a Dulux enamel in a rattle can, it was weird stuff, it went on like a cats breakfast and I thought I would be sanding it all off again, but as it dried it smoothed out very nicely.

Happy with the weekends progress, especially with getting all that stuff stored back in the container.

128671

Cap

29th August 2017, 07:11 AM

Love the pic of the panels spread out on the lawn, I just had an immediate thought "Life size maccano set!"

I also started refurbing the tanks, but got sidetracked and started working on the axles. At any rate its too cold to paint at the moment. Looking good too. The only thing extra I have done as part of the prep is to apply rust converter inside and out. This then prevents further rusting, and being a diesel tank in future I will always leave some diesel in both tanks to prevent rust forming again.

OneOff

29th August 2017, 08:51 AM

Y'know, I've been pretty stoked with the way the Barney project has been coming along; probably not the ultimate restoration but it pleases me... and then our engineering manager turns up at work this morning with the project he's been working on in his shed the last couple of years.

Not my style of vehicle, but you've got to be blown away with the quality of the workmanship he's put into it. Photos just don't do it justice.

128677 128678

Only been unveiled for a few weeks and he's already taken out top custom prizes at Brisbane and Sydney Hot Rod shows.

A different thing to what I'm doing of course but I'm not sure I'll bring Barney to work when it's finished... [bigwhistle]

reachjatt

29th August 2017, 04:56 PM

OneOff

30th August 2017, 07:34 AM

I had to look that up.

Golden Akhal Teke
128710

And I think your analogy is good. What's the point of having something that's too pretty to use?

Archangel007

20th November 2017, 06:24 AM

What a great project Pete and you have done an awesome job mate - you have almost caught me up and we started about the same time!!

Can't wait to see the finished product.Barney and The Camel are almost twins!

Cheers,
Tricky

debruiser

20th November 2017, 07:34 AM

Some awesome work, wow. You are making me look bad! I need to learn some fab skills to keep up with all you guys who do such an awesome job.

OneOff

21st November 2017, 12:51 PM

Thank you both for the good wishes. [smilebigeye] It's been quite a while since I've done anything on the thread, or on the car for that matter... [bigwhistle]

As I mentioned further back in the thread, I'd like to hear it running, even just for a minute, a bench trial so to speak. But I can't get any spark, and I'm worried I may have wired it wrong somehow and burnt out my brand new electronic dizzy. They do warn that may happen in the instructions... I really am an electrical numpty...

Currently I'm refurbishing the radiator support panel which I manage to get a few minutes on every now and then. Life has been getting in the way lately and Barney doesn't look any different than the last photo I posted some months ago.

The next step is to get the tub fixed up, two tubs actually, because I'm going to build a matching trailer. None of the three tubs I have have salvageable guards so I'm looking to buy new skins for them, but finding them is like hens teeth... can anyone help me with sourcing these? LRI have a set to suit a 109' but I can't find anything to suit an 88'.

Any ideas???

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/674.jpg

OneOff

29th December 2017, 10:34 PM

spoilt for choice...

134085

As is fairly normal for a Land Rover of this age, Barney has worn many coats...

134086134087

but it's all got to go, so after two days of hard graft with paint stripper and a scourer pad or two (many..)

134088

134089 134090

and some nice new rear panels

134091 134092

The ute-dog's just getting in some practice...

134093

Tomorrow I'll work on cutting out for the second fuel tank...

134095

OneOff

2nd January 2018, 12:08 PM

As I mentioned, the cutouts were done for the auxiliary tank filler.

Firstly, a big patch over the old hole, I have no facility or skill to weld it up so a patch was the only option. I like it, it looks very Land Rover-ish.

134277 134278

The holes I made are not exactly the same shape as the other side but it's the biggest hole saw I possess, and I'm reluctant to go out and buy a bigger one just for this job...

I also added the inner shield underneath, measurements being simply copied from the other side -

134276

Very pleased with progress over the Christmas break, I've also cleaned up all the necessary items ready to go to the galvanizers for re-coating.

Anyone got any idea where I might source a left-hand fuel hose cover?

134279 A mirror copy of the standard right hand cover. This picture is from Dare Britannia, they have them, but I can't work out how to buy anything from their site...

Cheers OneOff.

russellrovers

2nd January 2018, 02:12 PM

OneOff

10th January 2018, 10:48 PM

Thanks Jim, I’ll be in touch.

OneOff

11th January 2018, 09:50 PM

I sorted out all the bits and pieces and sent them off to National Galvanizers in Brisbane. The firewall is at the sandblasters.

134743

I had a closer look at the damage on the tub, I reckoned I could fix it, at least I couldn't make it much worse for trying. [smilebigeye]
So I removed the mangled reinforcing bit from the inside, and made up a piece to replace it. Steel, not aluminium, I can't weld aluminium...

134744 134745 Come up alright.

A bit of filler to bring up the low spots, and lots and lots of elbow grease later, things were looking much better...

134747 134748

A coat of etch primer applied...

134749

...followed by some spray putty...

134750

And that brings me up to date.
Pretty happy with the way it's coming along really. Hope I don't botch the top coat...

Cheers,
Peter.

OneOff

14th January 2018, 09:58 PM

More done today. To re-cap...

Before -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/515.jpg (https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-73HKkCz/0/51f315b2/L/WP_20171227_002-L.jpg)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/516.jpg

And after -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/517.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/518.jpg

This was the side that had the worst damage so I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/519.jpg

Not so happy with the finish though. Admittedly I'm a complete amateur at this spray painting lark, and I wasn't expecting a high gloss 2-pack finish, but the "orange-peel" effect is quite pronounced.

Painting gurus! what have I done wrong??

I'm using a Dulux fast drying enamel, 5:1 ratio with thinners. Air pressure is regulated to 50 psi, paint flow is set fairly light, and I've set the air so it is just kind of gently drops on the surface, rather than blasting at it. The instruction on the tin said one light coat followed by two heavier coats with 5 minutes flash time in between. It wasn't mentioned on the tin but should I have sanded between coats? Do I need to sand it back now and start again?

I'll call around to Dulux tomorrow for advice, but it's always good to get the opinion of the collective.

Peter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/552.jpg

OneOff

14th January 2018, 10:14 PM

A few more photos now that I've worked out how to make big pictures again... and I need to stop using the poxy phone and dig out my camera.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/522.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/523.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/524.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/525.jpg

Ihttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/526.jpg

OneOff

16th January 2018, 09:03 AM

Helloooo... :spudnikwaving:Anybody out there?

I can't help but notice I'm the only person who's posted on this page... :no2:

grey_ghost

16th January 2018, 09:12 AM

Hi OneOff,
I may not post but I certainly read this thread!! Keep up the great work.
Cheers,
GG.

Chops

16th January 2018, 09:32 AM

Hi OneOff,
I may not post but I certainly read this thread!! Keep up the great work.
Cheers,
GG.

X 2 even 😁

Tom and I are following, you’ll see by our “thanks”, we’re with you every step of the way 😁👍

OneOff

16th January 2018, 11:47 AM

I have noticed your thanks- my post was only tounge-in-cheek really; written in a bored moment... [wink11]

AJF

16th January 2018, 11:53 AM

Hi

I have definitely been following - I have painted 2 coats of the 3 on my tub over the last month so was interested to see your great work. (I also studied your brake pipe work a few times before doing mine).

I must admit I was a bit worried when the photo's of hot rods and horses started to appear on this thread and thought that perhaps you had found another project. Glad to see it you are full steam ahead on Barney.

All the best
Angus

67hardtop

16th January 2018, 03:43 PM

I too have been lurking...[emoji12] [emoji12] [emoji12] [emoji12]

Gordie

16th January 2018, 03:56 PM

You have outed me too...I have been watching.

Re your orange peel, I am no expert, have painted a couple of my own trucks and utes in enamel, maybe your air pressure is a bit low. I have always had the pressure up a bit, not so high as to cause too much overspray, but enough paint volume and enough air to be able to sweep along the panels and get a good coverage. I go by feel, so can't give an exact recipe! I find it pays to play around a bit to get the right setting before doing the whole job. Someone who is more knowledgeable in paints is bound to come along.

bemm52

16th January 2018, 07:19 PM

My 88 has an 88 paint job that I sprayed, my little compressor really struggled with this and its far from perfect[bighmmm] but....................from 88" or further away it looks great[bigrolf][bigsmile1]

Don't despair once the silver trim goes back on that tub will pop[thumbsupbig]

Cheers Paul

grey_ghost

16th January 2018, 07:26 PM

I call them 10 cars - they look good from 10 feet!!!! [emoji1303][emoji3]

OneOff

16th January 2018, 09:45 PM

Thank you gentlemen.

I did seek advice, firstly from an old guy at work who used to be an auto painter for many years. I showed him the picture I posted, he reckons it’s way too thick, I needed more thinners (30-40%) and more air, and move the gun a lot faster. I then went back to the paint shop where I bought the paint from and spoke to Rowan, he has spent many years in the boat painting game. He said 20% is enough (which is what I used) and to wind the air back even further than I had it!
So conflicting advice from two ex professionals... which didn’t surprise me too much, spraying seems to be a “what works for you on the day” sort of thing. The one thing they did agree on was that the day I did the job was far too hot - I was told “if it’s uncomfortable for you, it’s too hot too paint”. I think that was sound advice and the crux of the issue, the thinners were drying out before it hit the surface. I will pick my painting days more carefully in future...
In the meantime I have sanded back the outside with #400 and #800, waiting for a milder day. I’ll leave the inner as is, it’s not as bad and will be mostly covered anyway.

Thanks for your replies, I hope I didn’t sound like I was wingeing earlier, it wasn’t my intention, it just seems things are a bit slow in the SLOw section lately...

Learning all the time,
Peter.

OneOff

16th January 2018, 10:17 PM

Q.

Anybody got a gun for applying solid rivets they’d like to lend me? For the sake of authenticity I’m going to try to avoid blind rivets where I can.

Peter

S3ute

17th January 2018, 05:36 AM

Q.

Anybody got a gun for applying solid rivets they’d like to lend me? For the sake of authenticity I’m going to try to avoid blind rivets where I can.

Peter

Peter,

Hello from Sherwood - another watcher from the shadows.

If you can access the rivets from both sides then a hand punch backed by a solid surface (eg. hammer face) will do a pretty good job - the body rivets are aluminium and don’t require a massive force to distort them enough to get a tight grip. The capping rivets may be a bit harder. Basically a two person exercise but once you find a suitable partner, get the rhythm right and apply a bit of patience it seems to work ok - sort of like something else that will get you an infringement if you spell the word on the forum.....

There is a YouTube video about somewhere by North America Overland where they manually replaced just about every rivet on a 1965 SWB that way.

Cheers,

Neil

OneOff

18th January 2018, 10:09 AM

I brought all this home from National Galvanizers yesterday -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/729.jpg

Despite having to endure the forklift drivers opinion of Land Rovers old and new, I'm very pleased with the results, looks fantastik!

All up they charged me $179.50 which is their minimum charge for 100kgs.
I didn't weigh it but I doubt it would have gone 50kgs, and I did several items which weren't galvanized previously, which means I probably could have done two cars for the same money. Worth thinking about if you have a friend also restoring. Or just to put a set away for the future.

Also ready to collect from the sandblasters was this -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/730.jpg

He put a coat of zinc primer on it to keep the rust demons away until I get around to it. More holes than the Titanic, I'm going to be scratching my head working out which ones I need and which ones to fill...

The only signs of rust is on the drivers side footwell, decades of spilled brake fluid has done the usual job. Other than that, it's in great nick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/731.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/732.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/733.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/734.jpg

Full steam ahead!

Peter.

AJF

18th January 2018, 09:02 PM

Galvanised parts look great.

numpty

19th January 2018, 07:31 AM

Great work on your project.

Now I'm not a spray painter but have dabbled a little with my toys. I actually googled spray gun set ups and took notice of the videos and there are some good ones out there. I also bought a pressure gauge which attaches to the gun so you can adjust the pressure there and know what your getting, as you can have 50psi at the compressor but that's not necessarily what you have at the gun.

Just for interest I mix around 10% to 15% thinners and operate with 35psi at the gun and adjust the paint screw to 2 or 2 1/2 turns. Videos explain it better than I but it has worked so far. And, I only paint with air dry enamels.

Perry

OneOff

19th January 2018, 10:56 AM

Excellent. That's good information, thanks Perry.

OneOff

27th January 2018, 09:32 PM

Don't despair once the silver trim goes back on that tub will pop[thumbsupbig]

You’re not wrong...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1017.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1018.jpg

AJF

29th January 2018, 07:13 AM

Peter
Tub looks great with the gal pieces on it.
Where did you get the lights? Are they new?
Cheers
Angus

OneOff

29th January 2018, 08:11 AM

Thanks Angus,

I keep going out to the shed just to stand there and look at it, :woot:

Now that there is some body panels going on I find my enthusiasm growing again, I can't wait to get stuck in!
The lights are new, I got them from Craddocks as I do with most of the parts I buy; but they are just cheap Britparts items, anybody will have them. I plan to replace the bulbs with LED to try and up the visibility, compared to modern taillights these are very tiny.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1034.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1035.jpg

I'm looking for the mounting rail and support bracket for the truck cab.
Anybody got one they would sell? Possibly someone who has done a rag-top conversion?

Thanks,
Peter.

JDNSW

29th January 2018, 11:15 AM

Those tail lights appear to be the ones fitted to 90/110/Defender. These do not incorporate a reflector, so if you use these a separate reflector is needed. (a rivet countermight suggest fitting the correct lights!

In good condition those lights were considered perfectly acceptable for the Defender well into the 2000s, so I'm not sure why you want to upgrade them. And you should note that fitting LED bulbs to fittings designed for incandescent bulbs makes them non-compliant. However, provided it does a good job of providing light of the same colour in the same distribution as the original, it is unlikely to be picked up.

OneOff

29th January 2018, 01:13 PM

Hmm. O-kay...

Ignorance on my part of course - I didn't realize there were different variations. I'll need to look further into it.

While I'd never consider myself a rivet counter (there's already been too many deviations for that), if the right part is available I'll try and use it.

Dgd69

29th January 2018, 03:21 PM

My 1960 has Lucas l638 Park /flasher on front contacts changed to dual and Lucas l637 flashers and l581 stop /tail all red no window and Lucas l467 glass number plate lamp not 100% they correct for my year or yours and also going off memory for Lucas numbers someone may be able to confirm as well can take pictures for you
Here are the lenses

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1059.jpg

AJF

29th January 2018, 07:40 PM

Thanks for the details on the lights - will start to plan what I will use.

Cheers
Angus

OneOff

29th January 2018, 08:57 PM

Darren,

thanks for those codes mate, I like the look of them.
I’ll look further into it.

Peter

JDNSW

30th January 2018, 06:15 AM

Those lights are the ones fitted to late Series 2a. Not sure what 1958 Australian ones had, but I'm certain the front parking lights were smaller and had glass lenses. Note that almost all Australian delivered Series Landrovers had the rear numberplate on a hinged bracket attached to the tailgate, as the standard plate does not fit between the tailgate and the side.

A couple of points -

1. Lights fitted varied both over time and where the vehicle was assembled. As local content increased, locally made electrical equipment was used, mostly by Lucas, but not necessarily what was fitted to Home Market vehicles.

2. 1958 was certainly not delivered with blinkers. These were not a legal substitute for hand signals then (I got my licence that year!). Blinkers would have been fitted by a later owner and would have been most likely an aftermarket kit, not a Rover one. I fitted them to my 1958 model in 1963 or 4.

OneOff

30th January 2018, 08:07 AM

I found this from a 1966 newsletter, not relevant to me because it relates to series 2A only, but interesting anyway.

Types used were Sparto, Lucas and Wipac. According to my parts catalogue my vehicle used Sparto (up to vehicles numbered 141903513), but as John states, that would be in the UK, and more likely Lucas here.

https://www.google.com.au/url'sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwjYx7Whk_7YAhUIlpQKHbsgCz8QFggzMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.series2club.co.uk%2Fdocuments %2FService_Newsletter_1966.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0KqGbVmUYpxzcf3_7L1ddF

(https://www.google.com.au/url'sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwjYx7Whk_7YAhUIlpQKHbsgCz8QFggzMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.series2club.co.uk%2Fdocuments %2FService_Newsletter_1966.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0KqGbVmUYpxzcf3_7L1ddF)
The search continues...

Dgd69

30th January 2018, 08:46 AM

Hi John

top clear lens is glass and have seen on series 1 land rovers as well and yes my number plate lamp is on a hinged plate
the rear lights come up in the light file that inc has put in useful files section of this from 1960
mine hadturn signal fitted from new as was ex Nsw forestry
I have always thought the Lucas l581 was original for the 1960 Land Rover

Thanks

OneOff

6th February 2018, 11:22 AM

:whistling:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/189.jpg

[biggrin]

OneOff

6th February 2018, 02:46 PM

So, rivets...

I wasn't sure if I was going to use blind rivets everywhere or do the right thing and use aircraft rivets where possible as was done originally. Never having used them before I was a bit hesitant to go anywhere near my new paint with them...
But I bought some on Ebay to do a bit of experimenting on some scrap steel. I did of course need to use blinds where I couldn't access the rear of the rivet.

They came with a mild steel hand punch which I chucked in my old lathe and spun it up to fit a air hammer I borrowed from work, and proceeded to do a few practice runs.
I found around 35psi worked quite well, about a dozen hits holding my dumpy hammer firmly on the back.

So without further ado, I took a deep breath and started doing a couple on the gal trim first. Seemed to go alright, actually, pretty easy... within an hour all were done with only one very minor paint chip which will be easily fixed.

Learning new skills every day...[smilebigeye]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/191.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/192.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/193.jpg

and, as per the previous post, my genuine imitation elephant hide seats have arrived!:banana:

Cheers,
Peter.

AJF

7th February 2018, 06:56 AM

Rivers look great - can't believe it only took you an hour!

can I ask about the gun set up - I thought the little tool was just to hold the rover while you hit the other side with a hammer. How did you do it?

Also - how long did the seats take to arrive?

cheers
Angus

OneOff

7th February 2018, 08:29 AM

Hey Angus, thanks for your reply.

In all honesty it probably took a bit longer than that because I like to faff about and get things just right. But it turned out to be a really simple process and each one didn't take much longer than a standard pop rivet.

The tool supplied is a punch. It's for hitting with a hammer.
If you are setting rivets with hand tools it is a two man job, one to hold the punch and hit it with the hammer, the other man is at the back of the rivet with a substantial weight against it (anvil) which counters the blows. Because the anvil is heavier than the hammer blow the force of the hit is transferred to that end i.e. the back of the rivet. I'm not very good at explaining things (ask my wife...) but it's simple physics, something to do with equal and opposite forces. The bigger the weight, the better the job done. I found the dumpy hammer best where I could use it, in the tighter spaces I just used the biggest piece of scrap steel that would fit.

Having the air tool simplifies everything and means you can do the job by yourself with the gun in one hand and the anvil in the other. A good tip I found was to put a small piece of masking tape over the rivet head before you set it, it stops the punch from marking the face of the rivet.

Seats were ordered and paid on 3rd Jan, arrived 6th Feb.

I hope that's useful.
Peter.

AJF

7th February 2018, 08:03 PM

Thanks

I'll see how I go the weekend after next.

Angus

Johnno1969

21st February 2018, 01:33 PM

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/193.jpg

I am blown away by the finish on your vehicle. Well done!

OneOff

21st February 2018, 10:23 PM

Thanks

I'll see how I go the weekend after next.

Angus

So Angus... How did you go??

I am blown away by the finish on your vehicle. Well done!

Thanks Johnno, I've even impressed myself. A rare thing to be sure... [thumbsupbig]

Peter.

OneOff

25th April 2018, 06:55 AM

I’ve not done a lot on Barney lately because I’ve been tied up with my new acquisition... someone said to me recently that these things are addictive, you can’t just have one Land Rover

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/616.jpg

OneOff

28th May 2018, 08:13 AM

Still here...!

Things have been progressing, albeit at a snails pace. But last weekend saw a bit better action so I'll add a few photos.

I overhauled the steering box, making one good one out of two and fitted that in. I had no decent bits to seal the column through the bulkhead, so I fabricated one. While it's not original, I'm ok with that, making bits for Landies is a time honored tradition.

Doors have been re-skinned and undercoated, along with a few other fiddly bits.

The big news is we got the engine going for the first time! YAY!!!
Just at idle, it died immediately if we tried to apply even a little throttle, but still, a milestone.

Had another shot at the wiring loom - which resulted in a lot of head scratching and no further progress. [tonguewink]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/409.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/410.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/411.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/412.jpg

Chops

28th May 2018, 09:23 AM

Looking awesome 😎

JohnboyLandy

28th May 2018, 10:00 AM

Thanks Johnno, I've even impressed myself. A rare thing to be sure... [thumbsupbig]

Peter.

Can I ask what type of paint you used ? I am guessing enamel given the gloss, and what ratio of paint to thinner did you use ?

Thanks
John

OneOff

28th May 2018, 02:08 PM

mix ratio if I recall was 20%

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/413.jpg

JohnboyLandy

28th May 2018, 02:49 PM

Excellent, thanks !!

I bought Wattle Agricultural Enamel, and I seem to remember the guy at the paint shop saying something like 20% thinner, but I couldn't remember exactly. So I'll try 4:1 mix and see how it goes. I noticed the Dulux is quick drying, I seem to only find out about quick dry enamels after I buy "slow dry" enamels [bigsmile]

Cheers,
John

OneOff

28th May 2018, 02:55 PM

Slow dry enamels will give you a better finish, but will catch more dust and insects as it dries. [smilebigeye]

Talk to Rowan at Inspirations Paint at Oxenford (opposite Bunnings), he seems to know his stuff, and not far from you at the north end of GC.
He also has this paint code on file.

OneOff

29th May 2018, 07:04 AM

Picked up the sandblasted items last night, and being the patient soul that I am, they had to go in for a look...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/459.jpg

It's all coming together. [bigsmile1]

OneOff

8th June 2018, 09:07 PM

Last weekend the weather was fine and mild, a good time to get some painting done. So various bits and pieces found their way to the carport.. er... spray booth.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/117.jpg

Cat was very helpful... he knew just where I needed a footprint... [bighmmm]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/118.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/119.jpg

After painting, everything got a coat of body deadener underneath for noise suppression. Don’t know if it will do much good, but it can’t hurt.

After work this afternoon I thought I had enough time to put the seat box in, just for a look... you know how it is. The two unpainted covers will receive a coat in the near future, they weren’t ready when I was painting.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/120.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/121.jpg

And then of course the tunnel had to go in... and the floor panels...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/122.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/123.jpg

Before the purists start grumbling, I know a ‘58 should have a one-piece floor, but this is what I had and I’m not about to get silly over it. My truck, my way...

And as mentioned before, my patience matches my attention span, ie, none at all... so I just had to do this...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/124.jpg

Closely followed by this...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/125.jpg

They have been sitting in the storage container since arriving from Exmoor Trim last January , so a small, but halcyon moment...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/126.jpg

Oh boy, we’re getting somewhere now!
It’s great when you’ve got a pile of stuff to go in and it’s just a matter of finding time to get it done.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/127.jpg

And it’s only Friday!! Roll on tomorrow... [bigsmile1]

by the way - how are the seat bases (squabs?) held in? I know there’s a little leather strap on the front, is there more to it?

Its slowly dawning on me that I’m not working towards fixing up an old Land Rover as was my intention; I am going to have for all intents and purposes what is virtually a brand new/old school vehicle here when I finish... nice.

Cheers friends.

Chops

8th June 2018, 09:29 PM

Looking awesome [biggrin]

OneOff

8th June 2018, 09:34 PM

...

JDNSW

9th June 2018, 07:43 AM

......

by the way - how are the seat bases (squabs?) held in? I know there’s a little leather strap on the front, is there more to it?

That's it. They latch onto a little peg on the front of the seat box. Also held down at the back by the back of the seat.

OneOff

10th June 2018, 05:26 PM

Seems a rather flimsy setup... straps didn’t come with the seats, I guess I’d better get some.

I didn’t get a lot further today - domestic duties and all that. But spent some time finishing off in the cab floor, courtesy of some Bunnings matting.
The cab of course being the bit you spend the most time looking at, I’m pretty happy with how well it’s come up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/157.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/158.jpg

Cap

11th June 2018, 05:37 PM

Disco-tastic

11th June 2018, 06:16 PM

Looks fantastic. I'm very jealous!

OneOff

11th June 2018, 09:06 PM

Fantastic work, you put so much work and attention to detail. You sure you want to use it later? Im making progress on mine and refer back to your pics also even tho mine will not have the finish you are giving it. Look forward to more pics.

cheers

Looks fantastic. I'm very jealous!

Thank you you both for your kind words. [smilebigeye]

As Ive said before in this thread, for me it’s all about the journey. I enjoy the fiddily bits, and taking my time over the small stuff. I don’t know what I’m going to do with myself when it comes to the inevitable end.
But i intend to fully use it, there is no room here for a garage queen. It won’t be a daily driver, I’ve got the Defender for that, but it will be on full rego and get plenty of use as a weekend getabout and trailer tug. There won’t be any severe off-road, but we’re on acreage here and there’s plenty of paddock work where it will come in very handy.

Carlos, I’ve been watching your build and enjoying your great videos from the start, it is coming along really well. I’m glad you can find some help and inspiration from this thread, as I did from others who were building their projects before me.

Thats what this forum is all about, novices and experts alike helping each other along.
What a great place!

Peter.

OneOff

18th June 2018, 12:20 PM

I wasn't overly happy with the paint I'd put on the bonnet last weekend, there were some dry areas where I went over it a bit fast, and a big scratch I put there when I was trying to fit the bonnet by myself. I was tempted to leave it, but I still had the doors to do so I decided to paint it again. So I sanded it back to 800grit on Saturday and hung it in the carport ready for repaint.

Up early on Sunday, cold and still morning. Perfect!
Painting went well, and apart from a small run in an unconspicuous area which I could live with, all in all a better job. [bigsmile]

then the wind started to rise... to the point that within an hour it was blowing a gale! The bonnet was jumping around like a frog in a sock, and I was afraid it would come off the flimsy bits of wire I had hung it from and crash to the ground and ruin all my work...

So I checked if it was dry enough to bring indoors, a tentative poke with a finger, and then a firmer one showed the paint was good. So I grabbed it on the sides and carried it in. (Is everybody nodding knowingly yet?)

You guessed it... two fat palm prints were left behind! AAARRRG!!!! [bawl] It would seem it was dry on the outside but underneath the paint was soft enough to move around.
[bigsad] Back to the sandpaper again...

Or maybe a couple of strategically placed stickers...

BTY, the doors which I'd painted at the same time and left in the carport fared just fine, I should have left the bloody thing there with them...

No pics, too embarrassing...
Cheers, Peter.