1955 Series 1 86"

[fourteen8]

Bougth this one 3 weeks ago with holden engine in it. Picture taken after the first bath

[fourteen8]

Both wings off to fix some dint using hammer dolly. Found a big spider hiding behind RHS brake and relocated him to the backyard.

[digger]

Bougth this one 3 weeks ago with holden engine in it. Picture taken after the first bath

Looks good! Any rot? The red inside paint indicate fire brigade use maybe?

[fourteen8]

Today manged to take the front grill off and radiator. The radiator looks like its been modfied to fit holden engine. The front cross member had been cut too for raditaor to sit on. Is this how usually they do it to fit holden engine into series 1?

Originally where the radiator sit? On top of cross member? If it is on cross member it will be too high. Bonnet wont be closed properly.

[fourteen8]

Looks good! Any rot? The red inside paint indicate fire brigade use maybe?
Only on front cross member and some part of the bulkhead. Chassis seems good only surface rust.
The inner side of the bonnet is red. Could it be the original colour or its the top coat?

[fourteen8]

Today manged to take the front grill off and radiator. The radiator looks like its been modfied to fit holden engine. The front cross member had been cut too for raditaor to sit on. Is this how usually they do it to fit holden engine into series 1? Originally where the radiator sit? On top of cross member? If it is on cross member it will be too high. Bonnet wont be closed properly.

Found DR Johnston holden conversion and it hows they do it which is what they did on mine series 1.

Is that mean it would be easier to retegister the car as it is the most common conversion method at that time?

[russellrovers]

Only on front cross member and some part of the bulkhead. Chassis seems good only surface rust.
The inner side of the bonnet is red. Could it be the original colour or its the top coat?hi i am cutting up s1 chassi good cross member can post jim

[gromit]

Found DR Johnston holden conversion and it hows they do it which is what they did on mine series 1.

Is that mean it would be easier to retegister the car as it is the most common conversion method at that time?

Not sure whether a tester in VIC will allow a modified crossmember.
When originally done it was probably on continuous registration so never went through a roadworthy.

If you intend to put an original motor back in then it would be worthwhile getting a crossmember & putting it back to how it was originally.

Colin

[fourteen8]

Not sure whether a tester in VIC will allow a modified crossmember. When originally done it was probably on continuous registration so never went through a roadworthy. If you intend to put an original motor back in then it would be worthwhile getting a crossmember & putting it back to how it was originally. Colin

Not sure whether I will get an original motor or not. Its not that easy to get one here in vic.

At the moment if it will be harder to get RWC with modified cross member is to put an original cross member and get a custom radiator to suit and still put a 202 for the time being until a good 2.0L replacement is available.

[rangieman]

Not sure whether I will get an original motor or not. Its not that easy to get one here in vic.

At the moment if it will be harder to get RWC with modified cross member is to put an original cross member and get a custom radiator to suit and still put a 202 for the time being until a good 2.0L replacement is available.

In my opinion any welding repairs to a chassis should be inspected by a engineer for Rego by the books.
So even if you replace the xmember by rights it should be engineered :cool:
But if it looks standard there should be no alarm bells;)
Read between the lines:angel:
But as others have stated if the car is or was registered with that conversion and engine some state`s will not require a engineers report;)

[Dark61]

does the engine turn over , I cant remember?
cheers,
D

[1950landy]

There is a 2lit on Ebay in Sydney at the moment under Land Rover vintage parts.

[fourteen8]

Originally can anyone tell where the radiator sit? Is it on the cross member or behind/front of the cross member with its own bracket to chassis? Thanks

[fourteen8]

does the engine turn over , I cant remember?
cheers,
D
It does

[gromit]

Originally can anyone tell where the radiator sit? Is it on the cross member or behind/front of the cross member with its own bracket to chassis? Thanks

The radiator mounts to the front panel (the bit with the headlights in) and hangs down behind the front crossmember.


Colin

[fourteen8]

Does anyone know whether 1955 series 1 bulkhead is the same as 1958 series 2 bulkhead?

Also 2.25l engine from series 2 will fit on mine?

[gromit]

It's different to a Series II, even the Series I's differ. The body is wider for a start.........

Pegasus Parts in the UK make new bulkheads and they list one bulkhead for 1954, one for '55 & '56 and another for '57 & '58.
1954 - 1958, Land-Rover Series 1 - Pegasus Parts remanufacture new Land-Rover bulkheads for Series models. (http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_90073/cat_633093-1954-1958-LandRover-Series-1.html)

The differences may only be minor (location of holes etc.) but I can't confirm. Reading through their spec's the changes do seem to be minor like whether it has a floor mounted dipswitch or not.

Is your bulkhead too far gone to repair ??

Lots of Series I's ended up with 2.25 motors so it will fit, just not sure of the modifications needed i.e. do you still keep the mechanically operated clutch or do you use the bellhousing from the Series II, if so how do you change the clutch pedal operation etc.etc.

Hopefully someone who has done the job will post the details.

Colin

[fourteen8]

It's different to a Series II, even the Series I's differ. The body is wider for a start.........

Pegasus Parts in the UK make new bulkheads and they list one bulkhead for 1954, one for '55 & '56 and another for '57 & '58.
1954 - 1958, Land-Rover Series 1 - Pegasus Parts remanufacture new Land-Rover bulkheads for Series models. (http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_90073/cat_633093-1954-1958-LandRover-Series-1.html)

The differences may only be minor (location of holes etc.) but I can't confirm. Reading through their spec's the changes do seem to be minor like whether it has a floor mounted dipswitch or not.

Is your bulkhead too far gone to repair ??

Lots of Series I's ended up with 2.25 motors so it will fit, just not sure of the modifications needed i.e. do you still keep the mechanically operated clutch or do you use the bellhousing from the Series II, if so how do you change the clutch pedal operation etc.etc.

Hopefully someone who has done the job will post the details.

Colin

Thanks Colin.

I thought they are the same.

No I think it can be repair because the condition is not that bad I guess but will find out this sat when we remove the bulkhead, body from the chassis. I just looking some option. I might get lucky getting a cheap S2 and put it on S1 but looks like it is a NO.

Do you know when is the next Series meet up in Victoria? would like to see how they look like originally. Is it open to public or have to be a LROCV member to attend?

Cheers
Gus

[gromit]

You need to be an LROCV member (I'm not) but I have been invited in the past.

There have been a couple of AULRO gatherings. One at the Caribbean Market and another at the National Steam Centre in Scoresby. Not so many Series vehicles but worth going along to.....

When the weather gets a bit better I'll have my '56 out of the back shed, I'll let you know when that happens if you want to have a look.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/159944-1956-series-1-pto-welder-home-made.html

Colin

[fourteen8]

You need to be an LROCV member (I'm not) but I have been invited in the past. There have been a couple of AULRO gatherings. One at the Caribbean Market and another at the National Steam Centre in Scoresby. Not so many Series vehicles but worth going along to..... When the weather gets a bit better I'll have my '56 out of the back shed, I'll let you know when that happens if you want to have a look. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/159944-1956-series-1-pto-welder-home-made.html Colin

Nice series 1 you have there colin.
It looks like it is registered. Is it hard to get it registered? It has the original engine?

[Dark61]

there's another series 1 engine up north hear on glumtree.
cheers,
D

[fourteen8]

there's another series 1 engine up north hear on glumtree. cheers, D
Yes I saw that one. Do you know much to send it from tasmania to melbourne?

[gromit]

Nice series 1 you have there colin.
It looks like it is registered. Is it hard to get it registered? It has the original engine?

No problem as long as you meet all the roadworthy requirements and you get an 'understanding' tester.
It's currently on a Club Permit, there was no issue because a roadworthy wasn't required for the Permit system back then but this has changed.

Original engine but Holden carby fitted by a previous owner.


Colin

[fourteen8]

No problem as long as you meet all the roadworthy requirements and you get an 'understanding' tester.
It's currently on a Club Permit, there was no issue because a roadworthy wasn't required for the Permit system back then but this has changed.

Original engine but Holden carby fitted by a previous owner.


Colin

Just called VicRoads again. This time I got a bad news. He checked the chassis number and engine number and couldn't find any record on their system and their national database as well.

He suggested to call Dept of Infrastructure to get a record of importation. Otherwise without any registration history, import record etc the car couldn't be registered in Australia. :o

I did fill up a form a couple days ago for Vehicle Search on AMOC. Hopefully there is some kind of history of the car otherwise I am in a deep S^&* :(

[gromit]

Just called VicRoads again. This time I got a bad news. He checked the chassis number and engine number and couldn't find any record on their system and their national database as well.

He suggested to call Dept of Infrastructure to get a record of importation. Otherwise without any registration history, import record etc the car couldn't be registered in Australia. :o

I did fill up a form a couple days ago for Vehicle Search on AMOC. Hopefully there is some kind of history of the car otherwise I am in a deep S^&* :(


Phone again and get a different person for a different answer (VicRoads staff aren't that knowledgeable).

Speak to the previous owner and see if he has any details like the previous rego number. Search the chassis number to see if it was a CKD (built here).
It may have been on a farm most of it's life and never registered but that shouldn't stop you registering it now.

Join a Club get it through a roadworthy and it should go on the Permit system without any problem (as long as the engine is 'standard' so the Holden may be the only issue).

I think the AOMC can only search on 'engine number' so you are likely to come up with details of the Holden it was fitted in originally.


Colin

[fourteen8]

Anyone can tell me how to remove steering wheel?

Do I have to remove the horn? How do I do that?

[1950landy]

You need to remove the the whole of the steering wheel centre to get to the nut under it.
!st you need to remove the clamp at the bottom of the steering box, I also remove the 2 bolts holding the clamp to the box . Give it a good spray with CRC then remove it from the copper tube sticking out the bottom of the steering box. You may need to spread the clamp a little with a screw driver.

2nd disconnect the wires coming out the copper tube.

3rd spray CRC under the steering wheel centre & carefully see if you can turn the centre as you pull it towards it upwards . DO NOT TRY TO FORCE IT it is made of Bakelite & is very brittle, These steering centres with the dip switch & horn button are hard to find & very very expensive. Remember that when the centre comes out it will have attached the long copper tube which is the full length of the steering column & box.

I can't remember if the roof needs to be removed to get enough room to to get the copper tube out of the column.
Hope this helps. JUST GO SLOWLY & DON'T FORCE ANYTHING. :cool:

[fourteen8]

I found this site classibulkheads.com and they sell some of the bulkhead bits. Their picture might help me to identify part of bulkhead it is but some I don't know where it should sit on the bulkhead.
Maybe you can give me some pointer. I am not planning those parts yet but just need to know where they are on the bulkhead.

Land Rover Series 1 Replacement Front Panel
Land Rover Series 1 Replacement Front Panel (http://shop.classicbulkheads.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_76&product_id=114)

Land Rover Series 1 Replacement inner support bracket for Door Post
Land Rover Series 1 Replacement inner support bracket for Door Post (http://shop.classicbulkheads.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_76&product_id=116)

Land Rover Series 1 Replacement inner support bracket for Front Panel
Land Rover Series 1 Replacement inner support bracket for Front Panel (http://shop.classicbulkheads.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_76&product_id=115)

Land Rover Series 1 Replacement Outer support bracket for Front Panel
Land Rover Series 1 Replacement Outer support bracket for Front Panel (http://shop.classicbulkheads.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_76&product_id=117)

Land Rover Series 1 Replacement Rear Spine
Land Rover Series 1 Replacement Rear Spine (http://shop.classicbulkheads.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_76&product_id=118)

LandRover Series 1 Replacement Center console
LandRover Series 1 Replacement Center console (http://shop.classicbulkheads.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_76&product_id=112)

[Dark61]

I can take a pic of the inside of Chumlee if it helps? Let me know.
cheers,
D

[fourteen8]

I can take a pic of the inside of Chumlee if it helps? Let me know. cheers, D

Dont worry about it D. Thanks for the offer.

[fourteen8]

Is that an adaptor between the bellhousing and the engine?

Is that a series 1 bellhousing or from series 2 or other?

[Dinty]

Just from looking at the image, yes that is an adaptor plate for a 'Red' holden engine, and just looking at what I can see of the gearbox it could be a S2/2A from the look of the area where the starter motor rear shaft fits into the bell housing, Series 1 has a very wide flat area for the starter motor, hope that's of some help, cheers Dennis

[fourteen8]

Just from looking at the image, yes that is an adaptor plate for a 'Red' holden engine, and just looking at what I can see of the gearbox it could be a S2/2A from the look of the area where the starter motor rear shaft fits into the bell housing, Series 1 has a very wide flat area for the starter motor, hope that's of some help, cheers Dennis

Thanks Dennis.

So S2/2A engine is an option for me then. I think it is easier to get a S2/2A engine than S1.

[Mick_Marsh]

Just called VicRoads again. This time I got a bad news. He checked the chassis number and engine number and couldn't find any record on their system and their national database as well.
Sounds like a load of twaddle.
They didn't have my '65 Merc. on record. Their records didn't go back that far. When they moved over to computers, only the records of currently registered vehicles (current at the time) were moved from the old card system to computers. If your S1 wasn't registered at about the late seventies/early eighties, the previous registration details definitely would not be on record.

[fourteen8]

Just from looking at the image, yes that is an adaptor plate for a 'Red' holden engine, and just looking at what I can see of the gearbox it could be a S2/2A from the look of the area where the starter motor rear shaft fits into the bell housing, Series 1 has a very wide flat area for the starter motor, hope that's of some help, cheers Dennis

Is there a gearbox number that Indicate whether its series 1,2 or 2A gearbox? And where can I find this number?

[JDNSW]

There is a serial number on top of the gearbox on the RH side near the join to the transfer case (from memory), but I don't have a reference to identify the box from this.

John

[gromit]

Have a look here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/154562-series-gearbox-id.html


Colin

[QRS40]

Sounds like a load of twaddle.
They didn't have my '65 Merc. on record. Their records didn't go back that far. When they moved over to computers, only the records of currently registered vehicles (current at the time) were moved from the old card system to computers. If your S1 wasn't registered at about the late seventies/early eighties, the previous registration details definitely would not be on record.



From memory I think it was changed in 1984, Vicroads don't have any records that predate that- only AOMC have those details. Fingers crossed you get some success through them

[gromit]

From memory I think it was changed in 1984, Vicroads don't have any records that predate that- only AOMC have those details. Fingers crossed you get some success through them

Problem is, as previously mentioned, that it's filed by engine number.
Spoke to them a few years back to track down a vehicle's details down by it's rego and they couldn't help.

Engine Number Searches (http://www.aomc.asn.au/eng&regrecords.htm)


Colin

[fourteen8]

just looking at what I can see of the gearbox it could be a S2/2A from the look of the area where the starter motor rear shaft fits into the bell housing, Series 1 has a very wide flat area for the starter motor, hope that's of some help, cheers Dennis

Will it straight fit with Series 1 engine? Or I need to use Series 2/2A Engine?

[JDNSW]

Will it straight fit with Series 1 engine? Or I need to use Series 2/2A Engine?

The bell housing is different between Series 1 (petrol) and Series 2/2a/3 4 cylinder petrol or diesel. Six is, I think, the same as Series 1, and Series 1 diesel is the same as 2/2a/3 fours.

John

[Dinty]

It most certainly is different as John has said, but from images posted I'm reasonably certain that his Series 1 Land Rover has a S2/2A box, ? I did ask him to take an image of the G/box bell housing looking forward from the gear lever so we can ascertain whether or not he has a 4cyl or 6cyl bell housing but so far no response, cheers Dennis

[fourteen8]

Hi Dennis

Please see below photos of the gearbox. Thanks

[fourteen8]

Another photo. Sorry cannot put more than 1 photo at the same time from iphone.

[fourteen8]

Anyone can tell me where to buy LR green colour paint in mlebourne or western suburb or melbourne and what is the right code? Thanks

[Dinty]

From memory mate the bell housing appears to be a 6 cyl type which has the same stud pattern as the Series 1 engine, the S2/2A/ 4 cyl bell housings have a stud hole @ the 12 o'clock position see my image
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/148.jpg
bell housing are able to be swapped around, you just have to be careful that you get one with the same layshaft front bearing size, and I'm sure if I've forgotten something or have given the incorrect info, some-one will chime in cheers Dennis
ps the bell housing on your G/box is not a Series 1 type, as the starter motor hole is a much larger/flatter type hole, if that makes sense,,.

[bemm52]

This is paint code for deep bronze green
Cheers

[fourteen8]

Thinking to get this

SANDBLASTING KIT 10 GALLON PORTABLE SANDBLASTER PRESSURE ABRASIVE CLEANER KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SANDBLASTING-KIT-10-GALLON-PORTABLE-SANDBLASTER-PRESSURE-ABRASIVE-CLEANER-KIT-/261747063168)

Is it worth it? Anyone have used this one before?
Will it do the job to remove the surface rust on the bulkhead and other parts of the Series 1?

[russellrovers]

Will it straight fit with Series 1 engine? Or I need to use Series 2/2A Engine? hi deardot if you want a 55 engine i have one jim

[gromit]

Thinking to get this

SANDBLASTING KIT 10 GALLON PORTABLE SANDBLASTER PRESSURE ABRASIVE CLEANER KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SANDBLASTING-KIT-10-GALLON-PORTABLE-SANDBLASTER-PRESSURE-ABRASIVE-CLEANER-KIT-/261747063168)

Is it worth it? Anyone have used this one before?
Will it do the job to remove the surface rust on the bulkhead and other parts of the Series 1?


As long as you have a big enough compressor to operate the sandblaster it will work, a cheap DIY compressor will give a few seconds before you need to stop & wait for the pressure to build up.

Don't use sand ! Use a proper abrasive material.


Colin

[mfc]

These might help with sorting out you're bellhousing . If you're after any pics of an unmolested firewall or measurements give us a shout
It's always great to see another 1955 ( mine had the same top, near needed ear plugs to drive it lol ) looks a bit like you had pork pie rear lights.
Is you're headlight dip switch and horn in the centre of the wheel? Good nick cheers mark
Ps the g box serial number should be able to be seen with a mirror through the flap in the transmition tunnel ( drivers side on the raised flat section opposite the dip stick)

[fourteen8]

As long as you have a big enough compressor to operate the sandblaster it will work, a cheap DIY compressor will give a few seconds before you need to stop & wait for the pressure to build up.

Don't use sand ! Use a proper abrasive material.


Colin

Thanks Colin. There is also soda blaster that give less mess. Anyone have used or have nay experience with it? Cost wise not much different.

[fourteen8]

These might help with sorting out you're bellhousing . If you're after any pics of an unmolested firewall or measurements give us a shout
It's always great to see another 1955 ( mine had the same top, near needed ear plugs to drive it lol ) looks a bit like you had pork pie rear lights.
Is you're headlight dip switch and horn in the centre of the wheel? Good nick cheers mark
Ps the g box serial number should be able to be seen with a mirror through the flap in the transmition tunnel ( drivers side on the raised flat section opposite the dip stick)

Thank Mark. I will give you a shout when I need it. Good to know someone with Series 1 55 not far from Melbourne. I am pretty sure I need to see how the wiring goes after we finish with chassis and body.
Yes the horn and a switch in the center. I though it was the indicator switch.

I think I am good with the firewall as someone is following me home so I thought I keep him and leave it in the garage for now. Don't tell my wife :p

[1950landy]

Make sure you don't pull the wiring out of the chassis with out attaching a pull wire to it so you can pull new wires through.;)

[mfc]

Be supper careful with the horn highbeam unit... there fragile and expensive
I'd remove it and stash it somewhere real. Safe..... you loosen the clamp at the base of the steering box( wires coming out of it) that slides reluctantly up until you can get at the 3 small screws under the horn unit...3 wires held on by screw clamps

[fourteen8]

Does anyone can tell me the original tyre size and equivalent tyre size that is available these days? I think the tyre size numbering is different in the old days and now

[Dark61]

Thank Mark. I will give you a shout when I need it. Good to know someone with Series 1 55 not far from Melbourne. I am pretty sure I need to see how the wiring goes after we finish with chassis and body.
Yes the horn and a switch in the center. I though it was the indicator switch.

I think I am good with the firewall as someone is following me home so I thought I keep him and leave it in the garage for now. Don't tell my wife :p

I always try and buy the same colour - then wife doesn't notice.
Cheers,
D

[gromit]

Does anyone can tell me the original tyre size and equivalent tyre size that is available these days? I think the tyre size numbering is different in the old days and now

Tyres are still available in the 'old sizes'.
From memory they were 6.50 x 16 but 7.00 x16 is OK.
They are sometimes difficult to track down & tread patterns are limited, I was lucky to get Road Trek Majors in 7.00 x 16.

You're only down the road from me so if you want to check out a '56 at some point.....
Commitments this weekend but I'll let you know when I'll have some free time one weekend soon.

Colin

[mfc]

205 R 16 will fit the rims (tubed) although there is some debate over it. There close to 6.5R16...

[fourteen8]

Tyres are still available in the 'old sizes'.
From memory they were 6.50 x 16 but 7.00 x16 is OK.
They are sometimes difficult to track down & tread patterns are limited, I was lucky to get Road Trek Majors in 7.00 x 16.

You're only down the road from me so if you want to check out a '56 at some point.....
Commitments this weekend but I'll let you know when I'll have some free time one weekend soon.

Colin

How much did you pay for the tyre?

I would love to see your collection one day.

[fourteen8]

205 R 16 will fit the rims (tubed) although there is some debate over it. There close to 6.5R16...

Shouldn't be another number after 205 and before R16?

[gromit]

How much did you pay for the tyre?

I would love to see your collection one day.

Back in 2008 they cost $160 each fitted with a new tube, then Dunlop stopped making them (or at least they became unavailable here).

A modern tyre will be a radial rather than a crossply and will have an aspect ratio (the missing number). This gives the height as a percentage of the width so '70' is the tyre height is 70% of the width. The old tyres weren't 'low profile' so the aspect ratio is '100'

It depends if you want it to look right or whether you just want to fit some tyres onto it. There are claims that the radials will give better grip on cornering etc. etc. but we are talking about a Series I not something high performance.
Personally I've had no problems in the wet or dry with the crossplys.

If you really want the correct type tyres they are available, just not from your local tyre outlet and they may cost more because of limited sales.

I'll send a PM when there is a Sunday I'm home and I can get the Series I out.


Colin

[mfc]

Shouldn't be another number after 205 and before R16?

Nah 205 /16 is the old range rover clasic stock size... mine are Goodyear wrangler tg described as agricultural( not to say u can't drive them on the road)
And still available .. I'm shure there's other brands with ought the aspect ratio

[QRS40]

Depending on your rims you may be able to fit 7.5x16s. You can still buy these new- eg Goodyear Wrangler ATs, Dunlop Road Gripper S etc..


Someone will no doubt correct me if im wrong, but if you have LWB rims (will have a number like 272309 on them) they will fit 7.5's, but if you have the SWB rims (231601) they may not fit 'comfortably'..


If you search these forums, there is a fair bit of debate about wheels and tyres..!


*edit*- this thread seems to sum it all up pretty well: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/166596-fitting-7-5x16-231601-rim-anyone-have-larger-rims-any-divided-wheels-split-rims-2.html

[gromit]

The other thing to note is that some tyres in the 'old' size are for trucks and have a heavy construction. 8-ply is about right, 12 ply and above can make the ride a bit harsh depending on the state of your leaf springs.

One of my Road Trek Majors is an original and is 6-ply, the new ones I got in 2008 (made in Malaysia) were 8-ply but otherwise identical.

There are a few suppliers out there but they can be expensive. Antique tyres have bar treads http://www.antiquetyres.com.au/16700

Colin

[grazza53]

Might like to have a look here,
16600 | Antique Tyres (http://www.antiquetyres.com.au/16600-1)
16700 | Antique Tyres (http://www.antiquetyres.com.au/16700)
16600 | Antique Tyres (http://www.antiquetyres.com.au/16600-4)

Not sure if these are DOT approved, sorry, might have to inquire.

[mfc]

The price will scare you senseless .. and I wouldn't feel real good driving on the road on bar tread...I am fairly certain they are legal ,at least in VIC on club reg

[JDNSW]

Shouldn't be another number after 205 and before R16?

Not necessarily. When radial tyres were relatively new for general use, it became normal, if not an actual standard, to quote their sizes in mm with the rim size in inches, for example 205R16, with an implied 85% profile. The use of mm distinguished them from the inch x inch, for example 7.50x16 of crossplies.

It was not universal though, for example my 1960 Citroen had 145x400 radials that were 100% profile, and 100% profile radials produced as replacements for crossplies are 100% with no profile designator, but use inches for width - e.g. my 110 tyres 7.50R16LT.

The marking of tyres is not, and never has been, as neat and organised as some would like to believe.

John

[fourteen8]

Is that steel suppose to be there (holding the clutch and brake pedals)?

[1950landy]

I would say yes , it shows it on the chassis in my parts book. It may ne a stop for the brake & clutch leaver to stop then hitting the floor. On the page with the brake it shows a adjusting stop (bolt) that probably screws into that angle.

[1950landy]

Brake leaver stop & lock nut item 34 &35. Should be one for the clutch leaver as well.

[gromit]

Here's a picture of a scrap chassis showing the bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/917.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCF8582_zps3dde46c1.jpg.html)


Colin

[B.S.F.]

Slightly OT
I've noticed that a lot of people mount the brake switch on top of the bracket.
I always assumed that bracket was there to protect the switch. Any thoughts?
.W.

[1950landy]

I see by Gromits photo one of the stops bolet into another bracket on the out rigger, there is a hole in your chassis so that bracket may have broken off. :eek:

[B.S.F.]

These may be of help.

[gromit]

Slightly OT
I've noticed that a lot of people mount the brake switch on top of the bracket.
I always assumed that bracket was there to protect the switch. Any thoughts?
.W.

Just checked mine and it's in the same position as yours.
The one on the scrap chassis must have been replaced at some point and mounted on top.


Colin

[fourteen8]

Whats the best way to cut cross member? I shouldn't say cut because I am planning cut the side that is rusted and put a new plate.
Grinder? Plasma cutter? Is there a place that I can hire a plasma cutter? Thanks

[chazza]

A 100mm angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disc, works quite well. Just make sure that the sparks don't land on anything flammable, or on glass,

Cheers Charlie

[goingbush]

Whats the best way to cut cross member? I shouldn't say cut because I am planning cut the side that is rusted and put a new plate.
Grinder? Plasma cutter? Is there a place that I can hire a plasma cutter? Thanks

I bought a chinese handbag plasma cutter , this exact model, for $185

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Plasma-Cutter-LT3200-240-Volt-32-Amp-cut-to-10mm-/262802118077?hash=item3d303a15bd:g:Fn0AAOSwAuZX382 N

best thing ever for Landy chassis , cuts like butter, plugs into 10Amp 240v outlet and just needs compressed air . For that price its not worth hiring. Also cuts alloy sheet.

its says cuts 10mm , thats a stretch , 6mm is about it , but fine for what I need.

[fourteen8]

What you guys think about this? Any experience? Any good?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/282093959887

[goingbush]

I think it would be fine, I suspect its the same clone machine as my plasma cutter, I just don't have the Tig / stick functionality. The arc from the plasma cutter is certainly strong enough to weld with, just the wrong type of tip.

I do have a handbag DC Inverter welder the same size & it does everything I need .

The one in all would save space on the welding trolley , thats for sure, and unless your doing heavy gauge work (e.g. tow bars) its all you need.

[fourteen8]

Tyres are still available in the 'old sizes'. From memory they were 6.50 x 16 but 7.00 x16 is OK. They are sometimes difficult to track down & tread patterns are limited, I was lucky to get Road Trek Majors in 7.00 x 16. You're only down the road from me so if you want to check out a '56 at some point..... Commitments this weekend but I'll let you know when I'll have some free time one weekend soon. Colin

Will 215/70/16 fit?
Most of 6.5x16 are light truck. Is that mean 12ply?

[gromit]

Will 215/70/16 fit?
Most of 6.5x16 are light truck. Is that mean 12ply?

You need to check with the supplier.

Colin

[fourteen8]

Sent the chassis to sandblaster and then next is to take the bulkhead from the donor.

Planning to replace all bolts as most of the bolts on the car are unusable.

Anyone where I can get bolts etc for series? Preferably not far from werribee area.

[JDNSW]

Sent the chassis to sandblaster and then next is to take the bulkhead from the donor.

Planning to replace all bolts as most of the bolts on the car are unusable.

Anyone where I can get bolts etc for series? Preferably not far from werribee area.

You first have to decide what bolts you want to use.

The original ones are Sherardised, and this is very hard to find these days. Finding BSF bolts similar to the originals with any finish will be hard, but possible. The easiest to find will be to change to UNF electroplated with zinc, which won't protect them for long, but could be helped by painting with zinc paint. These would look similar to the originals.

Some restorers use stainless steel, but you really need to ensure it is insulated electrically from alloy panels, otherwise it will accelerate corrosion of the panel. And it does not look very original.

Some of the UK suppliers offer complete kits of bolts, but I do not know how good these are, and I suspect that they are aimed at 2a and 3 restorers and use UNF bolts.

Perhaps the Series 1 Club in the UK may be able to help, and you may want to consider joining them anyway.

[TimNZ]

I haven't used them, but this lot seems to be the go for fasteners:

Land Rover Body Fastener Kits, Spares, Land Rover Parts (http://www.landrover-parts.net/index.php)

Cheers,

[JDNSW]

They seem to have what you are looking for, although the prices are a bit eye-watering. For those prices I would want to be finding out details as to exactly what type of fastener they are providing.

[gromit]

First, don't throw away any bolts & nuts. If they are just rusty they can be derusted & plated or galvanised.

Second, make a note of bolt sizes (diameter & length) to help sourcing replacements.

Third, please don't use Metric bolts.

Also try not to use Philips head screws, they didn't use them on the Series I

You will find mostly BSF, Whitworth & BA bolts, screws & nuts on a Series I.


I haven't used this company for a while (like 20 years) B.S.F Bolts & Nuts (http://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_B_S_F_Bolts___Nuts__1.html) but they list some BSF nuts & bolts. Problem is then shipping 1/2 way round the Globe. I passed the details to Grey Ghost and he ordered some countersunk screws from them a few years back.

There is a company in SA but the range is restricted and you need to sell your first born to pay for them.British Threads - BSF - Classic Fasteners (http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/bsf/)

As John mentioned, UNF is the next best bet but even the supply of those can be restricted. For example the bolt lengths may increase in 1/2" increments but you need a 1 1/4" bolt to look right in a particular application so you have to cut the end off !!

I found my local Bolt shop can source BSF but you have to buy full boxes so 200off bolts of one size 200off nuts etc. No HT just standard grade.


Best of luck,


Colin

Here's another Australian supplier BSF (http://www.boltmasters.com.au/afawcs0147893/CATID=443/BSF.html)
Again expensive, bolt 1/4" x 1 (black) plus nut getting towards $1.75 each !!

Find a local bolt shop, the longer they have been established the better, and go and talk to them.

[1950landy]

In Brisbane I use Bolt Masters for BSF bolts & nuts.

[JDNSW]

As suggested above, once you have determined what bolts you need, you may strike it lucky looking for a long established fastener supplier, or even a long established engineering shop.

[phin]

Something like this might be a goer LANDROVER SERIES 1 & SERIES 2 - BSF NUT BOLT & WASHER SET IN HIGH TENSILE ZINC | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LANDROVER-SERIES-1-SERIES-2-BSF-NUT-BOLT-WASHER-SET-IN-HIGH-TENSILE-ZINC-/251955919220?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368)

Not sure whether it represents value for money though.

[gromit]

Something like this might be a goer LANDROVER SERIES 1 & SERIES 2 - BSF NUT BOLT & WASHER SET IN HIGH TENSILE ZINC | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LANDROVER-SERIES-1-SERIES-2-BSF-NUT-BOLT-WASHER-SET-IN-HIGH-TENSILE-ZINC-/251955919220?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368)

Not sure whether it represents value for money though.

It's a mixture of bolts, nuts & washers needed and not a complete set, part way through the resto you'd need to order another set then another......

450 parts comprising bolts, nuts, plain washers & spring washers so roughly 110 nut/bolt/washer sets (no idea of individual quantities). Some setscrews may be black not zinc plated. Washers you could buy locally fairly cheaply. Overall I don't think it's good value.

I found that BSF bolts are still made in India. I have a friend (just the one....) who imports from India so I'll get him to look into sourcing and importing. Problem is small quantities tend to be expensive to ship. Anyway I'll try and get some samples.


Colin

[fourteen8]

Is this a PTO? If it is, which part do I need to remove if I want to put on another gearbox? Thanks

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/36.jpg

[1950landy]

If you are fitting it to another LR box all you need will be on the other box, Rear gear box housing & cover plate for were the pto selector fits to the top of the transfer case plus a couple of gaskets. When you remove the rear housing check that the nut on the out put shaft is tight & if it is loose tighten it , you will need a special socket to tighten it & also may need to replace the lock washer.

[JDNSW]

Yes. You need the bits you have circled including the bit that the selector shaft goes into, the fork, and the dog clutch sleeve.

I can't remember whether the dog that it engages with is also part of the kit or is on the standard input gear of the T/C.

[fourteen8]

Thanks.

I think I will remove the whole gearbox and store it somewhere until I am ready to move the PTO. The gearbox etc was full of mud. Hopefully it will prevent rust on all the bolts or maybe make it worst. [biggrin]