greg-g
5th September 2016, 09:24 PM
I've just rebuilt the front prop shaft on my 2004 TD5 Auto at 190000km
The suspension is in standard configuration. On a trailing throttle at about 60 kph I could just hear a slight chirping sound, while I couldn't feel any movement one of the UJ's was hot to touch after a short run. On stripping it down one cup was completely dry.
The universals came out without too much trouble, but I was having trouble with the ball joint as most methods apply an uneven extraction force (I'd read all I could find in the various forums)
After removing the small oil seal, all the rollers and the small cup at the bottom, I noticed a small lip at the bottom of the hole. I then machined the small device pictured with a main body diameter of 13mm, lip 15mm, length 20mm, and a 8mm threaded hole through the middle.
The device was inserted into the ball, and the ball rotated 180 deg, a long threaded bolt then allowed the ball to be easily extracted.
One point I didn't see mentioned anywhere is that when assembling the universal both legs need to be inserted into the cross before the cups are inserted.
I used Hardy Spicer K5-A757 universal Joints and a SCV-82B ball, which I think were the best I could find.
I also couldn't get my grease gun onto the supplied grease nipples as it hit the sides of the cups before it was fully locked in. I eventually found an extended 1/4 inch threaded grease nipple that I used for greasing before reinstall the original nipples.
I considered getting a Tom Woods replacement drive shaft but there weren't any available in Australia and the US$399 plus US$230 freight put me off.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113554&stc=1&d=1473074621
The suspension is in standard configuration. On a trailing throttle at about 60 kph I could just hear a slight chirping sound, while I couldn't feel any movement one of the UJ's was hot to touch after a short run. On stripping it down one cup was completely dry.
The universals came out without too much trouble, but I was having trouble with the ball joint as most methods apply an uneven extraction force (I'd read all I could find in the various forums)
After removing the small oil seal, all the rollers and the small cup at the bottom, I noticed a small lip at the bottom of the hole. I then machined the small device pictured with a main body diameter of 13mm, lip 15mm, length 20mm, and a 8mm threaded hole through the middle.
The device was inserted into the ball, and the ball rotated 180 deg, a long threaded bolt then allowed the ball to be easily extracted.
One point I didn't see mentioned anywhere is that when assembling the universal both legs need to be inserted into the cross before the cups are inserted.
I used Hardy Spicer K5-A757 universal Joints and a SCV-82B ball, which I think were the best I could find.
I also couldn't get my grease gun onto the supplied grease nipples as it hit the sides of the cups before it was fully locked in. I eventually found an extended 1/4 inch threaded grease nipple that I used for greasing before reinstall the original nipples.
I considered getting a Tom Woods replacement drive shaft but there weren't any available in Australia and the US$399 plus US$230 freight put me off.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113554&stc=1&d=1473074621