Disappointed with Towbar

[Walruslike]

I'm so disappointed with my brand new $1550 dealer installed towbar.

I could see the problems coming and yet I still went and did it.

From reading on here (thanks guys) I could see that I basically had two options that I could consider... Hayman Reece third party install or LR dealer install.

Knowing that there could be computer problems with incorrectly installed wiring I thought I'd play it safe. I know some here have had good results with non genuine gear and installs but I've also read of issues created in the computer and electrics... so I chickened and paid double for dealer.

I knew there were three potential problems with a dealer install... (four if you count cosmetic):

1. The fail to recognise LED's issue
2. The risk of dealer placing plug too close to safety chain points for access.
3. The small nonstandard tongue size.
4. Cosmetically the ugly fat white LR socket cover looks bad against a black car.

So I mitigated them.... I specifically told the dealer of the LED issue and he said the later models (mine is MY13) have LEDs as tail lights so it's not an issue.

I mentioned the plug/safety chain closeness issue and he said that wouldn't be an issue.

I read that you can get the smaller square accessories.... just not as common.

Lastly I asked for a 7 pin round small socket so I figured that solves the ugly fat white thing issue.

Fail......partial fail......acceptable.....fail.

1. The bloody thing doesn't recognise that a trailer is connected.

2. I misunderstood matters and the chain connector point is deep down and well away from the ball towards car front. It's not very difficult to get to.... just stupidly inconvenient by design.

3. I don't need accessories like bike rack just now so can ignore the rarity aspect.

4. Instead of replacing the big ugly white plug with the smaller black one they installed a extension plate and now both plugs are there.

Sigh. It's not necessarily the dealers fault... I might not have been specific enough about replacing the fat white... I simply said I needed a small 7 pin round.

So it's all fixable with effort but it's disappointing to pay so much for such a unhappy result.

But that's just the beginning... the real problem is how low and close to the bumper bar the ball sits. I can lower on to it just... but then can't lift the jockey wheel away because it won't screw down enough to slide out when it's all so low. And you need to be bloody accurate with distance... An inch too far while backing back and you'll have a dent in the bumper bar.

It seems ludicrously low and close in under the bumper. I'm sure the Hayman Reece setup would have been much better. If I inverted the towball onto the other side of the offset base so it lifted it up then it would be much higher and better except then I think it would be hard up against the bumper.

So after $1550 I'm still nowhere yet and will still need to bugarise around with it or the dealer to make it all work.

My advice... don't get the genuine towbar.

[Walruslike]

Hmm... its left me with a few questions... any advice would be most appreciated...


1. Has anyone reversed the ball to lift it up? Is it too close to bumper then?


2. Cheapest least troublesome fix for detecting trailer seems to be install a bulbed turn indicator at each side of trailer. Any better ones?


3. Is it possible via some menu to tell the car that it should be in tow mode?


4. What changes when you do... I think it stops the beeping from rear obstacle when in reverse.... does it also do something to the Dynamic Stability Control program to change car behaviour?


If it does... what changes?


Thnaks for any advice or info.

[Ferret]

2. Cheapest least troublesome fix for detecting trailer seems to be install a bulbed turn indicator at each side of trailer. Any better ones?

3. Is it possible via some menu to tell the car that it should be in tow mode?


4. What changes when you do... I think it stops the beeping from rear obstacle when in reverse.... does it also do something to the Dynamic Stability Control program to change car behaviour?

If it is anything like a Disco4 (which it probably is since you say your Freelander already has LED lights) then a $12-15 resistor installed in parallel with the trailer turning lights is all that is needed to fix these kinds of issues. Take a look in the 'L319 Discovery 3 and 4' forum section. Plenty of info there.

[bnicho]

As I understand it, with your 2013, you don't need a "trailer module". Since you have the two plugs in UK style, then I would assume you have the later type factory plug in loom. Look under the spare wheel cover and check if the big grey socket on the passenger side has a plug inserted in it.

The next thing is the dealer needs to turn the trailer module on in the ECU. If they have not done that I would be going back and raising merry hell about it. Have you tried plugging in a trailer with non-LED lights? Someone mentioned an inline Ford part that can be used to provide resistance for LED trailers.

I have to say, I find it rather disappointing that a modern vehicle can't cope with LED trailer lights. If you bought a new trailer today you would struggle to find one with standard bulbs. My Moke, with a modern flasher can, and my wife's 2009 Nissan have no issues with trailer lights - LED's or not!

For my own Freebie, being older, I needed the module. I ordered the towing module from Rimmers. Last weekend I rewired the loom so it matches Australian 7-pin large socket standards. I reused the blue "fog" wire as electric brakes and moved the brown/green?? 12v permanent wire across from the white plug to the remaining pin on the black plug. (All my cars and trailers/caravans are wired this way.) I capped off all the unused wires with heatshrink and then taped them back on the loom so it's all waterproof and neat. But i have not fitted it yet, and I know I will still need a mate's Nanocom to tell the car the module is there.

I ordered a Haymann Reese bar just yesterday. Cheapest I could find was $591 delivered and I will have to fit it myself. I hope to have it this weekend.

I noted on eBay that Reese Towpower, Curt and Draw-Tite branded two inch hitch receiver bars are available for the "LR2" for about $300-350 delivered to Aus! Rated for 4000lbs (1800kg) gross and 400lbs (180kg) ball load. Unfortunately they do not necessarily meet Australian standards, so if you have a problem you may be in the soup with your insurers. I decided it wasn't worth that risk. They also seem to mount rather low and seem to have been designed for ease of fitment rather than looks. :eek:

[Walruslike]

Yeah thanks for that... you may be right... The dealer said bring it back and we will check we got it all right... Maybe they forgot the program tweak.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/403.jpg

Yes I have the big plug... I don't get why there's two... I only wanted one. Under the spare cover the wiring seems all neat and secured. I can't find the plug you refer to.

I'm buggered if I know what to do about the ball height.... Reversing it won't work I think because it will be too close to the bumper then.

I may just have to modify the trailer to accommodate a lower tow height.... but that's more money and hassle

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/404.jpg

You might catch a glimpse of my work boots.

[bnicho]

Quality safety boots! :o

I forgot, the grey socket is under a cover in the passenger side of the boot. If you undo the plastic nut that is holding the velcro strap onto the side of the boot you can pull the cover away and access the grey socket and plug.

The 12N or Normal socket (black) is in the Uk standard is wired basically the same as our 7-pin standard. When towing a trailer in the UK, it normally only needs this socket. The difference is, the UK standard has wires for the left and right tail light seperately, and a rear fog light. Neither of these matter in Australia as we don't legally need fog lights on trailers and we don't care which side of the car powers our trailer tail lights!

Unfortunately the wire occupied by the RH tail light is used in Australia for electric brakes. That means if your tail lights come on and you have a trailer plugged in equipped with electric brakes, the brakes will lock on. :eek:

Similarly, the wire usually used in Australia for 12v permanent feed is occupied by the rear fog lights in the UK standard.

The 12S (white) Supplementary socket includes extra items for Caravans - 12v permanent, 12v ignition switched, reverse lights, parking sensors etc. Stuff most of us will never use, and even if we did our Caravans would not fit the socket anyway.

You can find more details here:
Electrics & Wiring Options: Polar Automotive, Tonbridge, Kent (http://www.kenttowbars.co.uk/electrics-wiring-options/)

Cheers,

[Rextheute]

Have a look at the Hayman Reece catalogue - maybe get o longer younger to move the ball a bit further out .
Not too far as it will create a bit of leverage and possibly reduce the ball load capacity .
I have a catalogue at work , but you can download a DPF if easier .

[Rextheute]

The translation is a " longer tounge " ..... Autocorrect is incorrect !

[Walruslike]

Hehe... Damned Autocorrect causes me all sorts of grief. :)

I doubt I can go with a longer tongue... the Land Rover reciever is only 40mm not 50mm like a proper one... :)

Thinner and longer sounds unlikely.

Today it went to dealer and they admitted defeat.... It was programmed ok... It's just that as expected the LED lights don't draw enough to sense it properly.

So as it stands after two days at dealers and $1500 plus spent, I now have to modify the jockey wheel mount and add some side lights with bulbs. Sigh.... Don't get the land rover bar.... Save your money.

Also I have confirmed (at least to my satisfaction) that the tow mode has effects on the stability programming as well as gearbox mapping. So it's important to get the vehicle to recognise a trailer is hitched... it's more than just an annoying beep in reverse.

This would have been a very simple thing for LR to rectify over the last few years.... other manufacturers have. A bit disappointing.

Still.... I really love this new (to me) FreeLander2. :)

[Walruslike]

Please help with advice....

I've reversed the towball and found the height is only an inch or two too low now. But the handle on the ball catcher is too close to bumper on angle changes and also in tight turns.

I need some way to get the drawbar higher and the handle further back. The photos show that the cable brake is mounted an inch or so above the drawbar presumably to allow the mount bolts some room.

Can anyone suggest a modification, or a place that can do it, in the Brisbane area? Aspinal trailers said they wouldn't be comfortable modifying the trailer.

The last photo is before I reversed the tongue and ball so it's now angled up and closer to bumper.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/592.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/593.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/594.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/595.jpg

[bnicho]

Using something like this should fix it. The towbar will be farther away from the bumper as the distance from the pin holes to the towball hole is larger.

40mm Towbar Tongue Ball Mount Hitch 50mm Drop 30mm Rise TOW BAR Trailer | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40MM-TOWBAR-TONGUE-BALL-MOUNT-HITCH-50MM-DROP-30MM-RISE-TOW-BAR-TRAILER-/261209245094)

Cheers,
Brett.

[bnicho]

Even cheaper at sub-$50 posted. :D

Roadsafe 4WD Ball Mount 40x40mm Shank 50mm Drop 30mm Rise 220mm Length MH 402 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ROADSAFE-4WD-BALL-MOUNT-40X40MM-SHANK-50MM-DROP-30MM-RISE-220MM-LENGTH-MH-402-/172219681123?hash=item281917c963:g:qIkAAOSwintXRoO d)

[Walruslike]

Many thanks Brett. I looked at them, then measured the LR tongue, and yeah maybe something like that might do the trick.

In terms of height they don't give me any more than the LR, but they are further away from the bumper. I'm also considering a different hitch than a ball so the bumper becomes not an issue.

I found a few now you've steered me in the right direction, but they all have various ratings so I'm going to have to take the boat to a public weigh bridge and finding out exactly what weight I'm towing and what the existing towball weight is. I'll use the ute for that.

I've always suspected it was up near the Utes top load and always wanted to find out exactly. To be honest I've got a sinking feeling that the boat will go over the 1600kgs that seems to be a standard for these different hitches. The LR tongue is 2000kg.

In the end I might have wasted my money on a towbar because I mightn't be able to use the Freelander to tow it. Time will tell. It's been an expensive and annoying journey so far... :)

Still love the vehicle though.... it's a beautiful vehicle and a sheer pleasure to drive.

[Walruslike]

Hmm. Weighed the boat. 1740kg total with 200kg loading the ball. So that's over the overall capacity of those tongues and the towball weight.

Starting to think the FL won't be able to tow the boat because of the height, weight and closeness issues. Bugger.

[Walruslike]

I'm at the end of my ideas.... can anyone offer advice please?

Surely I'm not the first person to have issues with a low towbar... I can't find anyplace that I can take the trailer to get it modified.

I don't think there is a 40mm extension and lift that will do the job and carry a 200kilo down weight.

So I need to modify the trailer ( I think ). Anyone know what type of business would do that and then guarantee its legal? The trailer mob said they wouldn't be willing to mod it.

Any thoughts most welcome.

[POD]

The modification you need to the trailer is a very simple metalworking job, I'm surprised your trailer place is 'not comfortable' to do it- or are they simply a reseller rather than a manufacturer of trailers? Any general engineering or metal fabrication place should be able to modify the drawbar. I'd be putting the coupling inside the base of a length of channel (or 'U') section steel and welding that to the existing square section, after shortening it a suitable amount. That would put the coupling about 110mm lower, more of you made the channel deeper and extended it below the existing. Being gal will make the job a bit of a pain but still do-able. Your park brake latch will need some modifying but it is a bit jury-rigged anyway.

Oh and stay away from those extended towbar tongues- the rating calculations on your towbar are based on the geometry of the load point and the attachment points- any 'rating' on those ebay tongues will be random at best.

[Walruslike]

Thanks very much POD... That is a similar idea to what I had thought, but the trailer mob saying no made me think it wasn't do-able. I hadn't considered a general engineering mob... There is one near me I could try.

Does anyone know the legalities of it? Do I need certification after the mod somehow?

[V8Ian]

I was told by a trailer manufacturer that it was now non-compliant if there was any welding between the coupling and spring mount.
This could be due to the sharp increase of Chinese fabricated rubbish.

[Rextheute]

G'day ,
just looked in my Hayman Reese book - highest load rating on 40mm square appears to be 1600kg .

Thats a 2013 book tho.

May be able to use a 'interlock adjustable ' but im not 100% that its a 40mm square - has a load rating of 2000kg

Part # is 21228 .

Otherwise , a good engineering firm as stated could remanufacture your hitch on trailer - or try a chassis manufacturer .

[Walruslike]

Thanks fellas. I just went to the engineering mob nearby and they said they couldn't modify because it was illegal. I suspect it's a matter of getting design and certification from an engineer which wouldn't be cheap.

They suggested a adjustable height tongue but Trailer Spare Parts they steered me to don't have a 40mm one. TSP suggested Couplemate who said they only have 50mm. They pointed me to Hayman Reese who do have 40mm stuff as Rex above suggests, but the only stuff in the online catalogue in 40mm is the 1600kg rating.

I'll ring them anyway just in case they can do anything.

Rats..... :) I wish I had gone non Land Rover. After all this is sorted... if ever,... I still need to attach an additional two bulb indicators so the computer recognises there is a trailer attached.

[LandyAndy]

Have you looked at extended tow balls???? Something like this????
Tow Ball high rise 50mm 2" lift 1800kg Caravan Trailer towbar raise towball L2i (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tow-Ball-high-rise-50mm-2-lift-1800kg-Caravan-Trailer-towbar-raise-towball-L2i-/111630682963?hash=item19fdb50b53:g:nfQAAOSwstxVE4D 7)
Andrew

[Walruslike]

Have you looked at extended tow balls???? Something like this????

Tow Ball high rise 50mm 2" lift 1800kg Caravan Trailer towbar raise towball L2i (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tow-Ball-high-rise-50mm-2-lift-1800kg-Caravan-Trailer-towbar-raise-towball-L2i-/111630682963?hash=item19fdb50b53:g:nfQAAOSwstxVE4D 7)

Andrew



Thanks Andrew... no I didn't know they existed. That would solve the height issue but unfortunately I need to be further back also. The bumper bar is going to get knocked by the ball release handle in tight turns and ramp angle changes otherwise.

I just can't believe it's such a problem... a towbar should be behind the vehicle not under it... :)

[POD]

I find it difficult to accept the stuff about legalities of welding a trailer; how do they think the things are built? The coupling on your trailer is bolted to a plate that is welded to another plate that is welded to the SHS that is presumably welded to the trailer frame...
Also the gross weight of your trailer is relatively small and would fit into the category here in Vic where regulations are scant, essentially it is the trailer builder's responsibility to make sure the thing is safe and how that happens is up to them. Having built and registered 2 trailers, it's surprising how unregulated it is.

Another possibility to solve the height problem occurred to me, you could bolt the coupling inside the square tube. This would drop it by around 110mm. If it won't fit, find another type that does. A piece of 100x10mm plate underneath to spread the bolt load.

[Aaron IIA]

That would solve the height issue but unfortunately I need to be further back also. The bumper bar is going to get knocked by the ball release handle in tight turns and ramp angle changes otherwise.

I just can't believe it's such a problem... a towbar should be behind the vehicle not under it... :)

It sounds like the whole towbar setup is not fit for purpose. Take it back to the dealer and get it removed and costs refunded.

Aaron

[Tombie]

It sounds like the whole towbar setup is not fit for purpose. Take it back to the dealer and get it removed and costs refunded.

Aaron


If it's up to spec and meets ADRs then it's fit for purpose.

A manufacturer can't account for the thousands of variations of trailer (of which many don't comply)

[Tombie]

Find another company to have a look at that trailer... that set up is ridiculous- have it modified [emoji41]

[Tombie]

Another option - have a chat to the bloke at MCHitch... he's switches on and may be able to do something for you..

[LandyAndy]

When I looked that ball up on Ebay I saw that some Subaru and the VE commodore use a 40mm hitch.It could be that a sedan based hitch is longer and worth checking,perhaps call into a Holden dealer parts department and compare a Holden hitch for compatability.
Andrew

[Tombie]

Andy - you can not just change length - it reduces load rating...

And the average 40mm Hitch is 1600kg not the 2000kg that LR rate theirs to...

[Walruslike]

Wow thanks guys for the suggestions. Yes I think the trailer mod is the safest option.... moving the tow ball up and out on 40mm tubing seems like giving leverage to a possible problem. Now that Hayman Reece have said they have nothing I doubt I can find a 40mm that would be strong enough but I will try Holden and see...

Until this new car I'd never noticed how high the mount point is on the trailer.... They have lifted it to fit the bolts underneath it... A better option would have been a cut in and welded plate at a lower height.

This "can't modify" thing doesn't make any sense... as Tombie suggests it seems silly. But who knows legally....

If I gave it to a engineering works though and they did a mod, would I need to get a new compliance plate? How do you do that I wonder?

[Walruslike]

Just looked at the McHitch option... it would solve the bumper bar contact problem but if mounted where the existing one is the height of trailer problem remains... if I get the cut box section back, and U tube welded on, option it would solve everything but I don't know yet who would be willing to do it and how I get it certified afterwards.

It would cost about $225 for hitch plus engineering so all up my towbar would be in the $2300- $2400 vicinity and multiple trips to various places to resolve. What an expensive mistake. I hope anyone considering the LandRover bar for the Freelander reads this and avoids it like the plague.

[Tombie]

Contact MCHitch. He does custom fabricated work... he modified my Rapid Hitch to take his gear and a 50mm ball making it much more useable...

I wondered if one of these would work as well - if allowable in Australia..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/470.jpg

[Tombie]

You might also find that MCHitch could make the Pin in a custom height version... [emoji106][emoji41]

[Aaron IIA]

If it's up to spec and meets ADRs then it's fit for purpose.

A manufacturer can't account for the thousands of variations of trailer (of which many don't comply)

The OP has a very common 50mm tow hitch on their trailer. If the towbar design results in the hitch coming too close to the bumper bar under articulation, then it is not fit for towing a trailer, which is it's purpose.

I would grind off the two vertical risers on the trailer and weld on a 1/2"plate, drilled and tapped to accept 1/2" bolts. My local trailer shop sells pre-made plate for this purpose, but I found it cheaper to make it myself, even after buying the drill bit and tap.

Aaron

[Tombie]

Except Aaron - that in it's correct position the tow bar does NOT make contact with the vehicles body..

Only when inverted (which only specific tongues are rated to do) does it contact the body...

The big issue is Freelander 2 bars are rated at 2,000kg and 150kg Ball weight..

OP is 1,750 ish and 200kg ball weight..

So he's restricted to a maximum speed of 100km/h (LR requirement) and his GVM is reduced 200kg.

Even the Hayman Reese (which I agree would be better with its 50mm receiver) is restricted to Only 150kg ball weight.

Put Simply: the boat and trailer exceeds the vehicles capability.

[Walruslike]

Except Aaron - that in it's correct position the tow bar does NOT make contact with the vehicles body..

Only when inverted (which only specific tongues are rated to do) does it contact the body...

The big issue is Freelander 2 bars are rated at 2,000kg and 150kg Ball weight..

OP is 1,750 ish and 200kg ball weight..

So he's restricted to a maximum speed of 100km/h (LR requirement) and his GVM is reduced 200kg.

Even the Hayman Reese (which I agree would be better with its 50mm receiver) is restricted to Only 150kg ball weight.

Put Simply: the boat and trailer exceeds the vehicles capability.


Yeah there's a couple of issues to unpack here.... Isn't the recommendation that you have 10% towball weight? So if you did go near a 2 tonne weight then you couldn't use the 150 tongue that LR supply.

I'm a bit screwed because I bought this car with the intention of using it to tow the boat, particularly I thought the 4wd on dodgy ramps would be a big benefit. Many posters I read before buying said the Freelander2 was a great tow vehicle. My boat is not a very big boat compared to many at the ramp.

But now I'm buggered if I can see a happy way forward, and I fear that Tombie is correct... my car can't tow my boat. And yet I love the car and can't imagine parting with it.

To reduce ball weight I could get the axle moved forward but that might risk turning the currently excellent tow trailer into a swaying pest.

All this has already buggered a holiday plan we had, (which is why I have time to post these questions... ) but I could live with that if there is eventually a fix.

Don't get the OEM towbar kit folks.

[Tombie]

For your application I'd be checking with HR...

Their 50mm receiver should be ok... and the cost likely around the same as all the mods at $550.

Just flick the old unit up for sale...

You can tow up to 200kg but the vehicle downrates its GVM and LR recommend max of 100km/h.

I believe a conversation with HR is most appropriate at this point.

[Tombie]

Option B - fit a lift kit to the car :)

[Tombie]

Option C - lower the boat trailer

[weeds]

Fix the trailer....no trailer towed by car needs to be engineered.......just need to pass a roadworthy

[Walruslike]

Hmm... A lot of food for thought there. Tombie may be right about a changeover not being much more expensive than mods.

My wife came up with another option.... contact the trailer manufacturers. They might have a different solution that could be fitted and then plated by them.

Really if the wheels came forward a tad, and the ball socket got lowered, the whole thing would be fine then. Tomorrow I'm going fishing to forget about it all.... thank god I still have the ute. :)

Monday I will hop back on the phone and see what the Trailer mob say and then maybe Hayman Reece.

I really do appreciate all the advice you guys have offered. I think you have every one of you been correct in what you said, and it all was very helpful.

[LandyAndy]

I feel for you.
I built my own trailer from scratch,all I needed to do was apply for a vin no to licence it.Its not a basic garden trailer either,licenced to 2 tonnes with electric brakes on a single axle.
Boat trailers are simple.
Andrew

[SBD4]

... I still need to attach an additional two bulb indicators so the computer recognises there is a trailer attached.

As mentioned earlier, you don't need to add extra bulbs (although that will fix the issue), just add load restistors in parallel across the indicator circuit.

There's lots of info in the D3/D4 forum on the various things people have done depending on whether they tow trailers with either bulbs and LEDs or just LEDs. Some intall the reistors permantly on the trailer others put them in the car with a switch to disbale them when towing a trailer with bulbs. Anyway lots of options.

These are what you would be after:
12v 21w resistor - Google Search (http://www.google.com.au/search?q=12v+21w+resistor&sa=X&biw=1536&bih=755&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&ved=0ahUKEwjlnZyvquDPAhUUWWMKHWcJDZwQsxgIGw)

[Walruslike]

I thought I would put bulbs because I don't get any benefit from a resistor but do get some from additional side mounted indicators.

[Walruslike]

After exhausting other options I'm going to replace the LR Towbar with a Hayman Reece. It will cost $990 plus difference between standard tongue and a longer and higher one.

So this is going to have cost $2700 tow install a towbar. Plus a couple of bulbs and a bunch of phone calls and visits.

Don't buy the Landrover towbar. I will have one for sale soon. :)

[Walruslike]

Hey, can anyone tell me whether the new bulbs should be in parallel or series to the LED lights?

I believe from my reading that the cpu tests the indicator circuit when the drivers door is opened. So the bulbs need to be indicators not tail lights or stop lights. That's my understanding anyway.

Also someone said if you didn't have trailer detected you can just turn off the reversing beep by a button. Did they mean on the screen by touching off the various options on right side when reversing or something else?

Which brings up... if I got a codes tool would I be able to enable on the move navigation entry? Disable the bloody annoying door open beep?

[Aaron IIA]

Hey, can anyone tell me whether the new bulbs should be in parallel or series to the LED lights?

Parallel

[Walruslike]

Thanks Aaron. Will do that.

Wooohoooo!!! Took Tombies'good suggestion of replacing the towbar. Speedy Towbars at Slacks Creek swapped out he Land Rover one and put in a 50mm with extended out and up tongue. $990.

Probably could have got cheaper but he is only one who could do it on two days notice.

All rated past what I'm doing.... So now it's peace of mind. The LR European ugly white plug is hidden away and the whole thing looks and works heaps better now. I still have to sell the OEM bar... cost $644 but not sure what it's worth on Gumtree.

Still need to install bulbs to get the cpu detecting the trailer... that's next.

Weird thing happened while I was slowly creaking my way up the driveway and on to road looking at clearances etc. I don't think I touched it but the vehicle went into a different terrain setting... a ghost image of vehicle with blue front wheels to indicate steering direction came on. It was indicating Grass Gravel Snow setting on the centre console. Will read up on whether it can switch in itself...

Does anyone know if you can shut the damn distance detector tone off while reversing? It makes the noise even when no overlays like wheel lines etc are on the screen.

Although chastened by cost, I am so happy the vehicle can now tow the boat. :)

I just wish I had live readings of temps etc so that I would know if the vehicle is under excess strain while towing a big trip.

Anyway here is a piccie with clearance indicated by regulation workboot.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/291.jpg

[bnicho]

Great stuff.

My towbar arrived a couple of weeks ago and I'm yet to fit it.

However, I noticed something interesting.

Max towing 2000kg.
Ball weight 250kg!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/526.jpg

Surely a mistake? To allow more than 10% of total weight as ball weight limit would be highly unusual.

[Walruslike]

SBD4 advised just install resistors... looking at the trailer wiring it may be that is a easier and better option. So although I've read and reread many posts about it, I'm still not sure what the FL2 does for detecting load. I think I recall it was only the right hand indicator and only when the drivers door opened.

If it only needs one resistor that's better because each wire hack is another potential future failure point. Can anyone confirm or deny?

[Tombie]

10% is a guideline. Between 8-15% is acceptable.

My Jurgens Crossover is 240kg on the ball and 1800kg loaded. Tows like a dream - even when airborne [emoji41]

[Tombie]

SBD4 advised just install resistors... looking at the trailer wiring it may be that is a easier and better option. So although I've read and reread many posts about it, I'm still not sure what the FL2 does for detecting load. I think I recall it was only the right hand indicator and only when the drivers door opened.

If it only needs one resistor that's better because each wire hack is another potential future failure point. Can anyone confirm or deny?



One for each indicator will give trailer light for both directions. IMO a better outcome..

I'm making up some boxes at the moment that will be ready in coming weeks. If you're willing to wait..

[Walruslike]

I still have a week and a bit of my holiday so I need to sort it asap.... thanks anyway Tombie. You are very helpful and I've learnt stuff reading your posts... thanks.

[Tombie]

If I can find a couple of the right sized cable glands you can have one this week..

[Walruslike]

Sorry... I'm not sure what you mean Tombie... do you have a resister type device? (I probably read about it but that was a few weeks ago and my goldfish brain has lost that bit of info...)

Also I'm sorry for peppering so many questions.... but if I tow without it detecting the trailer is it better to use Sport mode so it holds gears longer?

[Tombie]

Use sport yes.

And yes, I have made a few boxes - male plug to female plug with the resistor box in the middle.

Allows you to plug when required or remove if using a conventional light trailer.

[Walruslike]

Max towing 2000kg.
Ball weight 250kg!

Surely a mistake? To allow more than 10% of total weight as ball weight limit would be highly unusual.

Thanks for your kind thoughts. My plate says exactly the same... as said by earlier posters the 10% is a suggestion not a law.

On another note... I can answer my earlier question about how to turn off the reversing beep....

I feel dumb for not trying it earlier :) but in case a later reader has the same question: Simply dial back the volume knob and it shuts up. :)

On another note... Thanks Tombie for advising Sport mode and for offering to assist with a box. In Sport mode on flat highway it held it in 5th rather than the 6th it dropped to if I put it back to Drive. So I believe that is better for it as well as the improved holding in lower gear under acceleration.

Thanks again Tombie for your kind offer but I don't think I will need a box as I'm going to just put a resistor screwed onto the trailer chassis as a heat sink and clamped accross the indicator circuit. Initially I will try one only on right hand indicator. See how that goes.