My 2a freshen up

[bemm52]

Ok here we go I don't know how long this project is going to take me but
I try to do something every day
This is the vehicle out in the weather when I bought it and on the neighbour's borrowed trailer on the way home.

[bemm52]

the photos here are a bit haphazard because I didn't take a lot early on
Hard top came off as well as the door tops the passenger side was rusted out but drivers side could be salvaged maybe




Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

The Plan is to paint everything as I dismantle no pictures of the floor etc as it is painted and stored on top of seat box wrapped in paper.
hinges were dismantled and painted too.
seat box and tops were army khaki while the doors and floors were deep bronze green bit of mix and match going on
Door skins were removed and frames were painted inside and out before reassembly

[bemm52]

Wind screen and door trims have been painted a silvery colour
Wiper motors rewired and painted and custom cutting board wire grommet's made. One windscreen glass is laminated the other is solid glass. One wiper motor was also painted army colour (drivers side)

[bemm52]

I have some rust to address but that's down the track, at the moment I want to finish painting the doors then maybe pull a guard of and paint that.
My plan is to strip all the body and paint bits then see what chassis issues I may have
Brake peddle is frozen on the floor and clutch peddle doesn't work clutch either but that's for later body first
Cheers Paul

[mick88]

Good to see!
Looks like a good project vehicle and your work is of a decent standard.
Are they alloy or stainless fuel tanks?
I will watch this thread with interest.
Cheers, Mick.

[67hardtop]

They are nice looking fuel tanks. They look like alloy but seem to be too clean so are prob stainless. Still look good tho...
Theres a bit of rust in that firewall. Rusty firewall is what pushed me to start rebuilding my Betsy.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[bemm52]

Hopefully this won't be as boring as watching paint dry as that's all that's happening.
After a morning of collecting wood got home to find Postman Pat had delivered a parcel from a Queensland member of bits and bobs..Thanks
seat rails were etched and painted. Want original seats back in this vehicle.
With paint on hand gave final coat to passenger door and second to inside drivers door.
Then the yips set in second time I've dropped this particular hinge so back to start again.
Unusual markings on hinge base could this vehicle have been owned by JC????
don't know what I'll do tomorrow but will try and do one thing. Got a lot of splitting & stacking to do
Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Don't know why last pic is upside down.........Wednesday 5 to 6 is happy hour at the local......hic ....but I don't think that's the Problem
Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

They are nice looking fuel tanks. They look like alloy but seem to be too clean so are prob stainless. Still look good tho...
Theres a bit of rust in that firewall. Rusty firewall is what pushed me to start rebuilding my Betsy.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app
Both fuel tanks are aluminium I'm guessing custom made ......win for me perhaps


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Good to see!
Looks like a good project vehicle and your work is of a decent standard.
Are they alloy or stainless fuel tanks?
I will watch this thread with interest.
Cheers, Mick.


Aluminium Mick guessing custom made


Cheers Paul

[The ho har's]

Hopefully this won't be as boring as watching paint dry as that's all that's happening.
After a morning of collecting wood got home to find Postman Pat had delivered a parcel from a Queensland member of bits and bobs..Thanks
seat rails were etched and painted. Want original seats back in this vehicle.
With paint on hand gave final coat to passenger door and second to inside drivers door.
Then the yips set in second time I've dropped this particular hinge so back to start again.
Unusual markings on hinge base could this vehicle have been owned by JC????
don't know what I'll do tomorrow but will try and do one thing. Got a lot of splitting & stacking to do
Cheers Paul

Glad it arrived in good order;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[bemm52]

Managed another coat on the doors, seat rails, some washers and the hinge/door bolts. Plus a coat on dropped hinge.

Also found time to explore some nearby bush, found a creek with no tannin a bit unusual, but my little 16" Stihl wasn't up to some of the obstructions.


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

todays progress......I wasn't happy with drivers door so wet and dried and sprayed another coat, also second coated hinge that fell on dirt.

Decided to remove bonnet to prep for paint and two ventilation flaps. Sheared a screw on the drivers flap, after thinking about it for a few minutes decided to blank screw inserts and use other holes with nutserts for control arms when I reassemble.


Doesn't seem to much rust in bonnet frame so I'll slosh some paint in the frame like I did to the doors and clean up surface rust.


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Some questions....Where bonnet hinges attach to bulkhead it seems flimsy is this correct, it seems as if the strain of the hinges has delaminated bulkhead, bit of a worry because I intend to put a spare tire on the bonnet ( first two pictures)?


What are the two holes adjacent to female hinge fitting for?(3rd pic)


Also why are there holes in the guard (4th pic) its as if the radiator panel should be more forward to pickup holes. Both guards have them.


Cheers Paul

[mick88]

The holes next to the hinges are for rubber buffer plugs.


Land Rover Parts - RUBBER BUFFERS - SERIES LAND ROVER (http://www.roverparts.com.au/rubber_buffers___series_land_rover)


Not sure about the holes on the inner wings.
Maybe the radiator support panel has been moved forward at some time to accommodate a larger foreign motor/radiator (like the one below).
People have done some strange things to Land Rovers over the years.


Cheers, Mick.

[JDNSW]

I agree with Mick, except to note that rather than your vehicle having had a different engine, perhaps the guards are from one that did.

I can't comment on the delamination except to speculate that it is more likely to be the result of rust rather than load on the bonnet - I don't recall ever seeing that effect.

John

[bemm52]

Mick And John thanks for you input .....are the guards 2a as lights are in them?


Where the delamination is occurring its rust free I think ...dark now, but will have a closer look tomorrow, what I saw this arvo was as if a skin had been added to outer fire wall in vent area, but female bonnet hinge is welded to this bit inducing the stress


there is no evidence of spot welds, my first thought was to rivet two bits together to close the gap but I doubt the strength of this fix


Mick your link to land rover parts has bulkhead fix bits but cant see a full width panel including both vents will look for a centre join tomorrow.....but maybe one is available and someone has done a bodgy fix in the past


I cant believe based on the engineering I'm seeing during the deconstruct that Land Rover would weld female bonnet hinge bit to basically an 18# piece of sheet metal. I sort of expected through bolts and compression tubes


Unfortunately none of my manual's show front view of bulkhead to see original hinge setup


Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

1. Those guards never left the factory with those headlights in them - the 2a with wide lights had recessed sections for the lights, same as Series 3. The only ones made like that were NAS Series 2a, and it is unlikely any of them ever came here.

2. That open join is spot welded - just had a look at mine.

3. The pictures you show are the original structure (or a pretty accurate replacement). The hinges are welded to that panel with no other support as far as I know. This is a structure that has remained essentially unchanged from the start of Series 2 in 1958 (maybe even start of 86 in 1954) until the last Defender this year, and is not known as a failure point, so the engineering can't be too bad. The hinges are welded to a complex pressed shape reinforced half an inch away by the similarly complex pressed inner skin spot welded to it around the edge of the vent opening.

John

[mick88]

From the pics you have posted of the bulkhead it looks to be separating from the inside/cabin side. Has the dash been tampered with or the drivers weight on the steering wheel caused it due to loose bracketry or something? Land Rover bonnets have been carrying 750x16 wheels and sometimes even more on them, over very rough terrain for decades, and the bulkheads don't seem to fail.
There must be some other underlying cause.
Some pics from the cabin side might help.


The bulkhead repair pieces listed usually cover all the problem sections that are subject to replacement, unless you have a vehicle that has been in a highly corrosive environment.


Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

A few more pictures spot weld have defiantly given way for whatever reason


I don't think rust was the cause as steel is clean.


point taken about hinge bracket John, on closer inspection delamination is across both vent holes with widest point centre of vent hole, with drivers side being worse. Can,t see what would cause stress here its just a hole in bulkhead with nothing swinging off it


just a point of interest at the moment more painting to do


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Couldn't help myself it was bugging me, put a straight edge on bulkhead...........eureka stress has come from within cabin as suggested.


Put trim back on doors they will be wrapped and stored


Flight deck gauges after warm up temp never goes above 140f


got family staying for a few days so not much will be happening


Cheers Paul

[JohnboyLandy]

Hey Paul, what's the paint colour / code you're using ?

Thanks
John

[bemm52]

Hi John here is the paint code


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got the vent controls and vents painted, plus got the bonnet stripped for paint.
Have another lot of visitors so progress is slowing.
Apparently four eyed 2a,s are around.....
Cheers Paul

[JohnboyLandy]

Thanks for the paint info Paul, much appreciated.


Cheers,
John

[1950landy]

Hi John here is the paint code


Cheers Paul

Hi Paul, How fast drying is this paint, The paint I was going to use dries in less than 2 hr but I can't find the supplier in Brisbane (went there today & the building has been sold & no sign up to say where they have gone) :mad:
I have 3 lit's of my paint left but don't think it will be enough to paint Landy inside & out & touch up the chassis were needed. Other 80" LR's I have done usually take 4 lit's

[bemm52]

Paint is basically dry in 24 hrs but I leave it for a couple of days before I wrap and store parts.........plus I use an etch primer underneath
I think its a cheap and cheerful paint not a twopac or whatever.
Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Visitors gone nice to catch-up but nice to have our space back

One of our visitors found a pearl in one of our bush oysters we've been hopeing to find one for years


Started on left wing I'm going to sand and clean up as much as I can before removal as its easier than on the bench


indicators and side lights have a good solid bases although lenses need replacing, one of the wire insulations has cracked not plastic maybe original?


got first coat on underside of bonnet,plus 3rd on vents


Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

I find putting the guards over a saw horse good to work on , there around the rite length & height.

[bemm52]

Got one guard down to etch coat, plus second coat on bonnet underside


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Sanded guard to almost etch stage a lot easier on the car I think, will try and remove it tomorrow.
Had to remove tank thing to access top guard bolts to firewall.
Rust in mud deflector.......full of leaves behind it when I removed it should be easy to repair by grafting new bottom half.
Also rust and heaps of dried mud in front drivers chassis end, rust present on canister/tank thing appears to only be surface will remove it and paint it
Cheers Paul

[mick88]

May I ask what purpose that mysterious canister serves?


Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

Not exactly sure but its either holding air or vacuum for brakes
Will put up some pictures of its plumbing tomorrow
Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

May I ask what purpose that mysterious canister serves?


Cheers, Mick.


Mysterious canister Mick and associated plumbing


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got the guard off with only a little grinding, bulkhead pillar looks pretty good rust wise but need to really dig around with a screwdriver.


Love the coarse thread bolts with captive clips came out easily.


Tape indicates distance from front vertical face of firewall to front of radiator panel.
Holes I'm pointing to are the ones guard was bolted thru to radiator panel about 1"to the rear of factory holes........????


Cheers Paul

[mick88]

Thanks.
The tank looks like it is just plumbed into the vacuum line for the remote booster.
I wonder what the advantage is? Unless there is a valve in the line that allows the system to maintain vacuum after the engine has been shut off. Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

Yes there is a valve I think I figured non return from manifold.............not sure what all this means but tank looks old......in period with vehicle perhaps
Is it unusual?........
Will put up more detailed pic tomorrow thought it maybe standard kit manual a bit sketchy in this area
Cheers Paul

[mick88]

The remote vacuum booster is non standard, probably a PBR VH 44, they were very common back in the day. Eighty eight inch wheelbase Land Rovers (2, 2A & 3) only had ten inch non boosted brakes as standard. Sometimes braking improvement was required when a Holden six was installed, some 88" vehicles ended up having 11" brakes fitted. As for the reservoir tank it's the first time I have seen one fitted to a series. Maybe the vehicle did a lot of towing or hilly work and the reservoir improved the braking. Do you know it's history? What dia drums does it have? It will be cast on them, Max Dia 11.060" or Max Dia 10.060" Cheers, Mick.

[JDNSW]

Vacuum reservoirs were fitted to late Series 3 diesels with boosted dual circuit brakes, but they did not look like that!

John

[bemm52]

Do you know it's history? What dia drums does it have? It will be cast on them, Max Dia 11.060" or Max Dia 10.060" Cheers, Mick.



Mick couldn't find stamping but measuring suggests drums are 10"


As far as history I don't know anything except I bought it in Lakes Entrance
I don't think it spent all of its life there because the atmosphere is very salty and generally the rust although there isn't to bad......time and deconstruction may prove me wrong on this :(


Chassis number is 24311135c which Calvin tells me is CKD between April 66 and April 67


Engine number is 25170387F
don't know if this is original or not


Cheers Paul

[mick88]

Vacuum reservoirs were fitted to late Series 3 diesels with boosted dual circuit brakes, but they did not look like that!

John



John, where does the LR diesel get it's vacuum from?
The intake manifold, or does it run an alternator with a vacuum pump on the rear like a lot of modern diesels do?
Any idea why it needed the canister?


Cheers, Mick.

[JDNSW]

John, where does the LR diesel get it's vacuum from?


Cheers, Mick.

The Landrover diesels with assisted brakes got their vacuum by having a throttle valve in the intake that closed at small throttle openings, but was full open otherwise.

The cannister, actually made from tow "half egg" shaped pressings welded together, and about the size of the one you have, stored vacuum so that you would have some assistance for an initial pedal operation after taking your foot off the accelerator - particularly if the engine was travelling fast, there would be plenty of vacuum very soon, but you don't really want braking "soon", you want it now.

This mechanism depended for satisfactory operation on having the throttle linkage properly adjusted. Shutting too soon or not fully opening would restrict power and emit smoke - not shutting soon enough or completely enough, not much vacuum and hence heavy brakes.

John

[bemm52]

Some more pictures of air tank couldn't find any markings or part numbers.


From what you guys are saying it seems a good addition to the braking system so I will refurbish it and paint the inside the tank.


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Filled cracks in hard plastic vent control knobs and painted them, I'm thinking I may use this technique on the steering wheel as well


Also got first coat on bonnet need to source the 4 rubber pads for spare tire


Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Some more pictures of air tank couldn't find any markings or part numbers.


From what you guys are saying it seems a good addition to the braking system so I will refurbish it and paint the inside the tank.


Cheers Paul

It won't hurt, but for petrol engined vehicles where the vacuum is taken from the manifold, it is not a great advantage - there is always some vacuum provided the engine is running, even at fuill throttle - and really, how often do you use full throttle? (I know, in a Seiries, going up any sort of a hill - but then the vacuum gets a boost when you take your foot of momentarily changing gears.)

John

[bemm52]

Nothing much happened to 2a today except wet sanding first coat on bonnet.

Found an absolute honey hole coup that hadn't been burnt of fire wood so spent the day cutting, splitting and stacking when I got home


plus Wednesday evening is happy hour at our local.....hic :angel:

[bemm52]

second coat on the top of bonnet turned out a bit ordinary not sure why so will sand it back and try again.


It seemed to craze in spots I didn't sand may be 24hrs isn't enough time between coats its been fairly humid here


Should I be trying to shoot just one coat over etch and leave it at that?


Cheers Paul

[granny]

are you using an undercoat/primer after the etch primer

[bemm52]

No paint place said it wasn't necessary

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

I think my paint problems may be being too quick to second coat will wet/dry sand bonnet tomorrow and have another go.


all I did today was paint inside of vacuum canister .....and run my engine for 20mins still sounds sweet :)no tappet noise:cool:


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Wet and dried bonnet very carefully


then mixed thinners paint very accurately took a deep breath and sprayed.


end result something I can live with.:)


So my mantra is going to be hasten slowly with painting ;)


In the light of the above......I've got a lot of painting to do guards, tub and tailgate and don't want to rush it, I wont post every day.


But when I get that sorted and continue deconstruction I will post again as I value and need your knowledge.


Cheers paul

[bemm52]

Hi Paul, How fast drying is this paint, The paint I was going to use dries in less than 2 hr but I can't find the supplier in Brisbane (went there today & the building has been sold & no sign up to say where they have gone) :mad:
I have 3 lit's of my paint left but don't think it will be enough to paint Landy inside & out & touch up the chassis were needed. Other 80" LR's I have done usually take 4 lit's



Went to Bairnsdale to get more paint and they gave me the spec sheets


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Decided after a lot of deliberation I didn't want head lights in the guards.
Being out in the sticks I went for a DIY approach ...........fairly confident it will work, sound deadened the inside at the same time mainly to try and stop electrolysis.
Not being a rivet counter :oI'm figuring the eight extra rivets that will be seen on each guard will blend into the already rivety feel of the vehicle;)
will post more pictures when I've painted guard to see how it looks
Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Disconnecting electrics for drivers guard removal I found this...
Could it be a relay for a traxside lightning upgrade are are they a common relay for other things
Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

The most common relay for 'roll your own' lighting upgrade. I have them on both my Landrovers!

John

[bemm52]

The most common relay for 'roll your own' lighting upgrade. I have them on both my Landrovers!

John


So I'm guessing this relay is electrically important..............I will value your input when I'm putting everything back together .
Dumb question ............what does it do? I figured maybe driving lights in original light position
I'm pretty hands on but I'm still learning electrical..............I hope current flows a bit like water, that's how wiring diagrams appear to me
anyway down the track if I'm stumped Ill ask questions
Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Series (and later) Landrovers run the entire current for the headlights through both the main headlight switch and the hi/lo switch. This involves a lot of unnecessary voltage drop, especially if you run higher than standard wattage in the lights.

The simplest, most effective and cheapest lighting upgrade you can make is to fit one of these relays close to the headlights (which are already close to the battery) so that there is minimum voltage drop to the lights. Just run the high and low wires from the switches to the relay, power direct from the battery, and short wires from the relay to the lights (plus earth for the relay). These relays incorporate fuses, which is something Series Landrovers (especially Series 1/2/2a) are short on.

John

[bemm52]

Still painting and getting marginally better at it:)
One guard sound deadened and top coated to finish....... second almost ready to prime and paint. Next big bit will probably be tailgate followed by tub.
Question?...the nuts in picture (windscreen pivot bolt nuts) what is the purpose of the slots? If they are original there was a plastic cover over the end with slots that I prised off to paint them.....the serrations seemed to provide the grip to keep them on
Just curious never seen anything like it
Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

These are a variety of self locking nut. The slots enable the round bit to be compressed axially so that the thread binds a little to make sure it does not come loose. The plastic cover is to make it slightly less dangerous for pedestrians.

The nuts are plated with zinc using the sherardising process, and were originally unpainted. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sherardising)

John

[bemm52]

Still painting panels now down to the tub end of things


seems some strange additions to my chassis over its lifetime are they an improvement or should I grind them off. The curved supports with flat plates are where the roll cage bolted in ,they are going.


Shoky bracket seems a lot of work instead of replacing the standard ones.

[bemm52]

Gearbox cross member doesn't seem correct I'm guessing the original mounts were hung off chassis rails but this setup also supports a hefty plate steel bash plate


Fire wall rust is extensive might try and source a replacement because I also have the delamination problem around the vents


Any ideas where to start looking would be appreciated


Cheers Paul

[Aaron IIA]

Your gearbox crossmember is not original, but it is in the original position. The original is not removable, which makes removing the gearbox a pain. Yours is more convenient.

Aaron

[JDNSW]

The shock absorber brackets are intended to use non-standard shock absorbers, with a pin rather than an eye at the top. Probably because an owner could not get the right ones.

John

[bemm52]

After a hectic silly season back to work on 2a121006121007

Cheers Paul

[JohnboyLandy]

That looks like more than a "freshen up" [biggrin] Looking good !!!

Cheers,
John

[OneOff]

Nice paint job, looks good.

Did you get the galvanized bits re-done or are they painted silver? I can't quite tell from the photos.

[bemm52]

The silver parts were removed and painted silver then reattached

Did some more deconstructing today... cant bring my self to remove radiator support panel yet as I like starting the engine every few days[bigsmile1]

121065121066
I know this isn't standard but I can buy a kit for it and the master cylinder plumbing is also there for air reservoir thingo tank

121067 guessing this is non standard too, clutch master cylinder when its removed I will try and identify it and get a kit also

121068121069Which end do I hit to drift out peddle pivot shaft.....manual isn't clear on this, my pick would be opposite end to oil filler but a confirmation would be nice


Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

The VH44 was a common add-on. The clutch cylinder is, I think, the same as is commonly used for override brakes on trailers, but I don't recognise the master cylinder. The pedal shaft is parallel, so you can drift it out either way. I assume you noted the pin securing it.

[bemm52]

Thanks John I did notice the pin will remove this first, your comment on the clutch master cylinder has got me thinking

It maybe cheaper to replace complete unit from trailer place than buy an overhaul kit

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Thanks John I did notice the pin will remove this first, your comment on the clutch master cylinder has got me thinking

It maybe cheaper to replace complete unit from trailer place than buy an overhaul kit

Cheers Paul

You will probably have to use your old pushrod, but yes!

[67hardtop]

U will need ur original pushrod coz u need to adjust the pushrod length to suit. I have trailer master cyls on both my s2a and s3. They work well and they r cheap. Less than $20. at auto parts stores.

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Todays progress and a question, would the booster still work with a smaller master cylinder?

The cylinder shown (PBR) protrudes thru the fire wall which is a bit ugly as you are probably realising I'm a complete novice at all this.


121124121126 121129

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

I'd be inclined to get the correct cylinder, which has a separate reservoir (means you need to find a reservoir) - or perhaps find the a correct one with integral reservoir. These have the outlet up, so the pipe exits up.

[bemm52]

I'd be inclined to get the correct cylinder, which has a separate reservoir (means you need to find a reservoir) - or perhaps find the a correct one with integral reservoir. These have the outlet up, so the pipe exits up.

Clutch (trailer type) master cylinder is shorter than the PBR brake master I have, and outlet is up, could this part work linked to booster it would keep plumbing in the engine bay

Of course I would have to buy a new cylinder but I'm prepared to do this as indicated in a previous post


Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

U will need ur original pushrod coz u need to adjust the pushrod length to suit. I have trailer master cyls on both my s2a and s3. They work well and they r cheap. Less than $20. at auto parts stores.

Cheers Rod
I better clear this statement up a bit... i use trailer master cyls on both my s2a and s3 as the clutch master cyls, not the brake...sorry Paul...

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Thanks for clear up Rod and John thanks to Rod I'm onto original brake master set up, learning heaps here
121236
121234121235


bit the bullet and removed radiator and support panel, painted and reassembled brake and clutch pedal assemblies. Not sure if silvers correct but it should look good against green fire wall.

I was amazed at the fact the designers had engineered in lubrication for pedal pivots, also did some repairs on my ride on mower which was obviously built to a price.......[bigsad]

Cheers Paul

[Johnno1969]

Good to see you moving towards the original brake master cylinder set-up. The originals may not be the world's most powerful brakes, but that home-made job with the hydraulic line protruding through the firewall above the pedals looks decidedly agricultural. Sorry if I might have missed some of the good advice so far in this thread and somebody has already mentioned this, but if you stick with unassisted brakes you can use either the earlier CB or later CV-type master cylinder. As I understood it from some sage or other when I converted my IIA to the CV in 1991, the later is better and less hassle. I have never had brake problems with my Landy, anyway.

John

[JDNSW]

Series brakes, in good condition, and properly adjusted, are adequate for the performance, although pedal pressure is high by modern standards. A worthwhile improvement for swb is to fit lwb front brakes (and master cylinder, and for lwb to fit six cylinder brakes to fours. A brake booster is also perhaps worth fitting to either.

[bemm52]

I' m seeking some advice on how to remove indicator cancelling wheel to fit a new rubber

121379

Also my manual makes know mention of indicator switch in wiring diagrams mine is a suffix C so presumably started out as positive earth, Haines wiring diagram does show indicators and switch but I seem to have an extra wire

121382121383121384121385

coming from or into my indicator stalk I have green/red, black/white, green/white, light green brown, all shown on Haines (not LR) wiring diagram......but what's the black and red, not shown?

I'm getting ready to strip out wiring but I'm apprehensive with such ambiguous wiring diagrams or is it I'm using wrong diagram

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

Tex Magna repair Project Denver Magna Light - YouTube
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T82BVO6P1w8Co)
Standard wiring colours Lucas wire colour codes for Land Rover (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Lucaswirecode.htm)
Assuming it's been factory wired or by someone who used the 'standard' colours.



Colin

[bemm52]

Thanks Colin wiring colour codes are going to be very helpful, it would seem my mystery wire is an earth to indicator I will try and find other end.


Utybe clip didn't really show how to remove the wheel don't want force something that shouldn't be .

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

Utybe clip didn't really show how to remove the wheel don't want force something that shouldn't be .



Paul,
I must admit I didn't watch both parts of the YouTube video, seems there is more to come.
The repair kit includes screws so I assume you have to drill out the rivets to replace the rubber.

Land Rover Series 1 2 2A Indicator Stalk Tex Magna Repair kit (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-Series-1-2-2A-Indicator-Stalk-Tex-Magna-Repair-kit-/162389966221)

Also found this.....'Trigger' the Series IIA 109 Land Rover - 'The rebuild': 28th June - Fixed the Tex Magna and steering lock tweaked (http://pjboomer.blogspot.com.au/2013/06/28th-june-fixed-tex-magna-and-steering.html)



Colin

[JohnboyLandy]

Hey Paul,

Where did you get your new rubber for your indicator wheel ?

Thanks
John

[67hardtop]

They are available on ebay UK. You can get the replacement rubber or the complete wheel assy.

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Hey Paul,

Where did you get your new rubber for your indicator wheel ?

Thanks
John

Haven't got it yet but search Tex Magna on Flea Bay there's a few vendors offering after market rubber replacement.

After studying said wheel in situ with a magnifying glass the key to its removal is a little round silver clip on the end of the shaft, this clicks off quiet easily with a careful tug with pliers[smilebigeye]

121451

Also wiring is starting to make sense a little but I'm bound to hit the wall at some stage, plan is to create my own wiring diagram based on what I have inherited and the Lucas colour codes for factory wiring, to help with reinstall I'm no electrician

Cheers Paul

[JohnboyLandy]

Hi Paul, the best wiring diagram I found for my (1971 2A) ex-army LWB was from the remlr site, I would say it's 95% identical to the vehicle. I guess I am lucky in that it means my vehicle has under gone very little modification to the wiring.

I plan to rewire mine completely, mainly to get rid of all the cloth covered wires, but also for more fuses and halogen headlights etc. I plan to use same colour wiring which I will source from Autosparks. I have found exact matches for everything except maybe one or two colours.

Cheers,
John

[bemm52]

some progress while I ponder wiring
121548

After pricing copper radiators I'm going to have a go at restoring this one that was in the 2a
121549121550 all the major rust problems are on the drivers side of my vehicle guess it was the direction it was parked up in the salt air

When I bought the vehicle it had no fuel pump after fitting a new fuel pump and new battery it purred like a kitten and started first push of starter, I hope their are not deeper issues waiting to be addressed, time will tell

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Removed bottom tank as there was a leak on the bottom inlet tube, also cleaned out the tubes a few had blockages on the top tank end but bottom ends were fine.
121580121581121582

Need to get some flux next time I'm in town and reattach bottom tank then fabricate a new bottom piece for support frame

121583

I'm 99% sure hole in solder blob is the leak I'm chasing. Looking quickly this evening it seem that bottom inlet pipe could be silver soldered in and then soft solder melted into hole above the pipe to seal an area that could be difficult to braze

Odd they used two techniques on the same item

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

121688

Some dash questions?

The light top centre has a green and yellow wire so oil pressure I assume

Lights bottom left and right what do they do and what colour should they all be no trace of colour coding behind dash (By colour I mean lens colour red green or yellow)

switch top left I have traced as spotlight on/off switch

switch below choke seems to be for fuel gauge having two tanks

What is the push button below oil pressure fault light, it has a light blue wire connected to back of fuel gauge then to button/switch then through the firewall where it is neatly coiled and taped but not connected.

I'm also guessing lever switch at key is, off, parkers and,headlights

wiring is in very good condition and neat so I am trying not to destroy it

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Bottom left, Charge light, red. Top centre, oil pressure, green, Bottom right, Cold start, orange.

Switch top left is non-original, should be power sockets here.

Switch below Choke is non-original.

Push button is non-original.

Lever switch is, as you guess, off-park-head.

[1950landy]

The push button looks like it may have been for electric wind screen washers . Does it look like there has been washer jets fitted anywhere[bighmmm]. One of the spare switches may have been a change over switch for fuel gauge if it has two tanks.

[bemm52]

Thanks 1950landy the right switch is to do with fuel tanks and other push one in centre could be a windscreen washer that is now long gone

John thanks also for your information, more concise than the manuals I've got, just a few more questions to clear this whole issue if I may

Should red charge light be on when engine is running?

Should green oil pressure light be on when engine is running, it was, so I'm guessing it goes out if pressure is lost

And lastly is cold start linked to engine temperature telling me to use choke if its to cold to assist starting, I vaguely remember it coming on sometimes when I first got the motor running, but cant remember when in relation to choke/ motor?

I don't remember any of my manual choke Holden's or Fords having a cold start light.

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Charge light and oil light should be off while engine is running

Cheers Rod

[JDNSW]

Charge light and oil light may be on when the engine is idling, but should go out at a fast idle. If they don't go out, it indicates:_

Charge light - generator not working, or wiring problem. Ammeter should tell which. Generator may have lost its remnant magnetism, or battery is connected with wrong polarity. Originally it would have been positive earth, but is very likely to have been changed to negative earth. The remnant magnetism that gets charging started is opposite for the two, and could be restored by momentarily closing the cutout points or by momentarily shorting the Dynamo terminal on the voltage regulator to the Battery terminal. To check what it has been set up as, switch headlights on, and see whether the ammeter shows charge or discharge. If it shows charge, battery is connected with the wrong polarity.

Oil Light - could be no oil pressure (in which case running the engine risks serious damage), faulty wiring (short circuit) or a faulty pressure switch. Test the wiring by disconnecting the wire from the pressure switch - should give no light. Check oil pressure by temporarily connecting a pressure gauge instead of the switch.

Cold Start Light - seems to be a feature of Rover products from the thirties to the seventies, but I have not seen it elsewhere.

[Tim_AM]

orange, cold start light will be on when choke is engaged,

goes out once you push the choke back in,

all other light should be off in 'normal' running,

[1950landy]

orange, cold start light will be on when choke is engaged,

goes out once you push the choke back in,

all other light should be off in 'normal' running,
The cold star light comes on with the choke on & when the engine gets up to operating temperature & will go out when choke pushed in.
I think the switch on S2's is on the cable & there should be a temp switch in the head to turn it on when engine gets to temp.

[67hardtop]

Cold Start Light - seems to be a feature of Rover products from the thirties to the seventies, but I have not seen it elsewhere.

Hi JDNSW, I had a 1990 Daihatsu L80 v handi van that had a cold start light set up. Pull out choke, start engine, push choke in when light came on, just like series land rovers. They are around......just for ur info...

Went like a 3cyl rocket...[emoji15]

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Had a good crack at wiring today disconnecting and labelling, today for some reason it all started to make some sense. All that's left to do is ease the loom out of firewall.


However I have three mystery wires I'm hoping someone can help out with, steering wheel was loose and nut finger tight when I bought the vehicle horn button was out too.


121758brown and black cloth covered wire connects by bullet to the collar on steering column that I guess powers horn button.121759


Where does the green wire with female spade connection go its part of original loom.

121760I assume this wire connects to the copper tab washer that locks steering wheel nut


121761where does the red wire I'm holding go to or what's its purpose somehow I missed it during labelling

Looking forward to getting spanners out again now wiring is almost gone

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Hi again Paul, you are correct about the spade terminal it connects to the lock washer under the steering wheel nut, to supply earth to the horn button which in turn supplies the earth for the horn contact, on the bottom of the steering wheel, pictured,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/728.jpg
That rubs on the brass ring that has the wire soldered to it which makes it way through the harness to the horn. The horn has fused positive power to it constantly. The button meerly supplies the earth... on negative earth systems of course.

Wiring is fun...for some of us...lol

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Any thoughts on the other two wires Rod I hate electrickery

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

I did have a good look at it but not knowing what the gauges are im not too sure. It looks like an insulated feed wire for something. Would like a pic of the front of it if possible

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

hi Rod its this one121768wire goes to the centre of this gauge...............any thoughts on the green wire its as long as the horn power one and yes I'm negative earth.


Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Oooh its an amp gauge. Not familiar with amp gauge. Both mine are just fuel and temp. Hopefully someone out in aulro land can enlighten you. Ive not seen an amp gauge wired up yet. Sorry. Im as useless as a chocolate tea pot...lol

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Rod
Amp gauge has been disabled I think due to polarity being reversed maybe, the wire I was concerned about was the red wire in the centre of the gauge I hadn't labelled, but looking at it this morning over my Kellogg's I realised it was a light for the gauge, so obvious I hadn't labelled it....links into dash light switch.


the green unidentified wire I'm thinking is maybe power to wiper motors as they were wired direct to fuse box separate to loom with modern wiring will check if its got power when I put everything back together.


I've got to stop over thinking this electrical stuff 99% of the wiring is accounted for and the car ran.

thanks for input

Cheers Paul and see you soon

[JDNSW]

Ammeter would not have been disabled because of the polarity change - all that is needed is to swap connections on the ammeter. If an alternator has been fitted it will have been disabled because the alternator outputs far more current than the meter shows at full scale!

John

[bemm52]

Correct John an alternator has been fitted, going to put wiring to bed now until its time to reinstall it

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Speedo issues.........121824water ingress into the housing has caused rust, which flaked and is now stuck on the magnet121825I'm not sure how to remove this and is it a big problem

The needle pointer is a bit sticky down towards 0 rest is WD40 type spray OK for lubrication.


Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

The clearance between the disc attached to the pointer shaft and the frame of the speedo is very small, and flakes of rust in this gap will make the needle sticky, as will a drop of WD40 - so don't get it here. A spray on contact cleaner is perhaps most useful for cleaning this. The only bits that actually need lubricating are the bush on the input assembly, the tiny bearing on the inner end of the needle shaft, and the shafts of the trip mechanism. Keep oil off the rest.

John

[1950landy]

The clearance between the disc attached to the pointer shaft and the frame of the speedo is very small, and flakes of rust in this gap will make the needle sticky, as will a drop of WD40 - so don't get it here. A spray on contact cleaner is perhaps most useful for cleaning this. The only bits that actually need lubricating are the bush on the input assembly, the tiny bearing on the inner end of the needle shaft, and the shafts of the trip mechanism. Keep oil off the rest.

John
You just need to make sure you don't get any contact cleaner on the odometer number drums , it will desolve the paint. [bighmmm] your best bet is to take it to a instrument repair business or find another speedo.

[bemm52]

You just need to make sure you don't get any contact cleaner on the odometer number drums , it will desolve the paint. [bighmmm] your best bet is to take it to a instrument repair business or find another speedo.

Ok WD40 is out, found a witness mark on pointer disk so will have an attempt at removing pointer and disassembling further to remove rust flakes.........nothing to lose, how hard can it be I'm disassembling a whole car and hoping it works when I reassemble it, this is just engineering on a smaller scale I suppose

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

I have an article in one of my practical mags on cleaning & repairing speedo's , I will see if I can find it & scan it for you.

[JDNSW]

If you remove the pointer, you will find that the stop at zero can be sprung in, and there is a small mark on the dial before the stop showing exactly where to set the pointer when you refit it. Then push the stop in and move the pointer past the stop.

As noted, keep any solvent off the mileage drums. If you fully disassemble the speedo, be careful not to distort the hairspring, and take careful note as to how everything is assembled.

[1950landy]

121867
I found the article but it only tells you how to free up the tumblers[bighmmm]
If I remember correct the neadle is only a press fit & can be just pulled off with your fingers. One of the other brains trust will probly correct me if I am wrong.
If you had posted this up about 4 weeks ago I could have sent you a new speedo for the cost of the freight . I had a number of new & s/h L/ R speedo's for S2's but sent the last one to a friend in Tasmania.

[1950landy]

121868121869121870121871121872the only new series instruments i have left are this instrument cluster , 2 x AMP gauges & a s/ h instrument cluster missing the amp gauge. I may have some more but wont know untill I next go to my workshop. There may be a s/ h speedo there with the Rover car instruments I have, not sure.

[bemm52]

dismantling speedo

121904witness mark on wheel lines up with slot in housing and needle points to 65mph121905

this gives position of needle for reinstalling, some pictures of innards and rust I took of magnet

121906121907121908

When bezel and needle are dry I will put it all back together

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Looks like you have done a good job, looks nice & clean:thumbsup:

[bemm52]

radiator progress
121909new bracket tinned prior to welding
121910121911welded in position
121912soldered to bottom tank
121913painted
Radiator holds mains pressure water guess I'll find out weather its is good enough when I reinstall it, if it doesn't leak I've saved quiet a few hundred dollars not having to replace it

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Back from our Adelaide road trip for a nieces wedding with a few goodies, thanks Rod nice meeting you and chatting Land Rover, when I got home I noticed one of the rims is narrower than the others no biggy as I have one that matches the other three[bigsmile1] narrower one can be a spare.....[thumbsupbig]

also picked up some bulkhead repair pressings from Ballarat and a crank handle from an antique place in Ararat $5

Spotted a Tanami in South Gippsland 122572

Got the steering column out today122573122574

There doesn't seem to be any play in the box so I won' t dig into it to much but I want to find out why its covered in oil

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Sorry about that Paul i didnt even think to look at them. They were all on the s3 diesel with matching tyres so the thought didnt even enter my head. Glad u have another rim. If ur ever here again ill give u the correct one if i have it. Glad u had a good trip home. Good to meet you and the missus. I love talking land rover.

Cheers Rod

[JDNSW]

There doesn't seem to be any play in the box so I won' t dig into it to much but I want to find out why its covered in oil

Cheers Paul

Could just be spillage while topping up, The pitman shaft seal often leaks a little, and "a little" from either source can add up to a lot over forty plus years!

[bemm52]

Could just be spillage while topping up, The pitman shaft seal often leaks a little, and "a little" from either source can add up to a lot over forty plus years!

Thanks John after cleaning up steering box I could see no places obviously leaking but your pitman shaft seal leak seems logical.

I have ordered a steering box refurb kit, while box and shaft are out of the vehicle I may as well give it a birthday............$40 to my door is not much to spend and I wouldn't like to do it in situ later.

Cheers Paul

[AJF]

Paul - keen to hear how the refurb goes and I have to do one as my current steering box has a crack in it.
Cheers
Angus

[bemm52]

Paul - keen to hear how the refurb goes and I have to do one as my current steering box has a crack in it.
Cheers
Angus

When kit arrives I'll post pictures of my progress......kit contains gaskets, ball bearings,seals and races, fortunately my box is in good nick besides leak

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Disaster struck today I wrongly assumed that the choke button unscrews and in trying to twist it off the thing shattered.[bigsad]

Postman bought my gauge refurb kit so there is some sunshine, they should sparkle with new chrome bezels

122799122800

Firewall is out but I wont touch the rust until I've painted all the linkages and rods from peddle to carbie +the steering column supports, etched everything today.


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Finished painting a few pieces today in silver......Rod you may recognise one of the bits here.
122897

Black bits need sanding and another coat
122898

Steering column still waiting for kit to arrive
122899122900

New rubber on tex magna
122901

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got my gauges back together123329

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Attacked my steering box this morning it had oil in it, and everything appears to be in good order...... no end float to speak of in steering shaft against ball races, and no bits of loose metal

so I decided to leave well alone, did replace pitman shaft rubber seal as the old one had gone hard.

123330 123331123332123333

Question do I need to oil side plate gasket before reassembly or do it dry?

123334 I now have these surplus to needs if anyone needs them, PM me and you can have them for postage cost

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

From the photos are the small cracks and top rim chipping likely to be an issue with horn slip ring. had a look online they are quiet expensive
123352123353123354

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

No. All the white plastic does is space the slip ring away from the column and insulate it.

[bemm52]

Saved my choke knob[bigsmile1]

123386123387123388123389

Tried araldite but not to good but super glue worked well on the Bakelite, then wrapped in fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin, then thickened epoxy which I faired and painted

Should be plenty strong enough[bigsmile1]

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

My surplus steering box bits have found a vehicle

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Bit of an update, manifold and extractors off with no broken studs[bigsmile1]

124113

This is the colour of the water drained from the block, to flush I was thinking of blocking bottom radiator hose and squirting water down top hose and out of drain tap (assumption is drain tap is in the lowest portion of the cooling galleries)

124114

Two aluminium fuel tanks in excellent condition with large drain plugs underneath

124115


Manifold didn't come up as well as steering box maybe heat has something to do with it....hydrochloric acid perhaps?

124116

Work on fire wall rust has stopped because my little map gas size oxy cylinder ran out after about twenty minutes of welding. But no distortion in what I managed to do so I'm confident, have got on to a real oxy set I can borrow just need to sort out gas.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

After removing the starter motor for painting I found the spring had sheared thankfully no bits had fallen in,any leads on where I can source a new one would be appreciated[wink11][wink11]


124199 124200124201

Looking in bell housing I saw this looks new[bigsmile1]

124203124204

Front drive shaft looks as if its been repaired at sometime so I guess I've got to replace it[bigsad]

124205

On the upside under uni's are new split pins hopefully good things have been done prior to my ownership

124210124211124212124213

I couldn't get the handbrake drum off this afternoon although I got the 6 retaining nuts off any tips or tricks, hand brake works but after starter motor spring I want to look inside while access is easy

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Handbrake - make sure adjuster and actuator are completely off, then belt the drum towards the transfer case with a soft face hammer alternately on opposite sides, It will be held by the fit of the drum centre on the output flange, so penetrating oil on this join may help. If this does not work, try heating up the drum with a hot air gun.

[bemm52]

Handbrake - make sure adjuster and actuator are completely off, then belt the drum towards the transfer case with a soft face hammer alternately on opposite sides, It will be held by the fit of the drum centre on the output flange, so penetrating oil on this join may help. If this does not work, try heating up the drum with a hot air gun.

Thanks John will try again with everything off..........if I'm still struggling is it viable to undo nut on output flange and remove drum and flange together

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

An 'old school' auto elec should be able to supply the starter spring.
Land Rover 244710, Lucas number 270889

LUCAS M418G STARTER MAIN LARGE SPRING IN FRONT OF PINION & PINION RETURN SPRING (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LUCAS-M418G-STARTER-MAIN-LARGE-SPRING-IN-FRONT-OF-PINION-PINION-RETURN-SPRING-/311484659163)

You'd probably find one at a swap meet.


Colin

[bemm52]

I have sourced a spring for my starter motor and ordered a new front prop shaft

Undid the nut and split pin on output flange and removed drum and output flange........didn't expect the oil though good thing is its clean and smells fine, will undo backing plate and clean up oil and renew output oil seal while I'm at it.

124310 124311this pesky thing gave me some grief for a while until I spotted the thread.

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Hi Paul, with the output seal, check that u get a double lip seal and that its a snug fit on the output flange. Also dont forget to renew the felt seal under the nut. Lots of ppl forget the felt seal and it leaks again. It doesnt hurt to seal up the splines in the output flange with a little silastic as well. Saves the handbrake shoes. I got a seal and fitted it and 3 days later i had the same problem. Turns out the seal i was sold was only a single lip seal and wasnt a tight fit at all. The seal was part of a kit. Both seals were supposed to be the same but were different, one being a double lip seal and the other a single lip seal. Both had the same part number and in the same colour blue box.

Cheers Rod

[JDNSW]

Thanks John will try again with everything off..........if I'm still struggling is it viable to undo nut on output flange and remove drum and flange together

Cheers Paul

It may be - provided it is not hanging up on the shoes, which it possibly is because the shoes are stuck in place or covered in crud. Worth a try though. Note that if you have not drained the T/C, you will as soon as you remove this, so be prepared! It is quite likely that the actuator is stuck as well, and disconnecting the actuating rod and giving it a belt on the end may help. May not too, if the rollers are rusted in place.

Hitting the drum on opposite sides as I suggested, once free from the centre hole, this action will also tend to free it from the shoes, where a straight pull, such as you have if you undo the centre nut, will, if the shoes are stuck against the drum, tilt the shoes and make them grip more tightly. The hammer blows will shake them loose. (Hopefully)

[bemm52]

Some more progress, wife went to town so I got stuck in .....mowed yesterday[thumbsupbig]

Removed all four brake drums only one screw wouldn't budge with impact wrench or heat so drilled the head off. Plenty of meat on shoes but front passenger side had delaminated (same side I had trouble with screw probably no connection)

124352124353will replace all shoes except hand brake I think

Got the rear half shafts out and ordered a 52mm hub nut spanner, my big shifter came out but couldn't do the job, to my untrained eye splines seem OK

124354124355

Rod there was silicon where the knife is pointing so I'm guessing felt washer missing, my manuals don't mention washer on gearbox and diff drive flanges but I guess it couldn't hurt if they are same size as half shafts (haven't checked yet)124357


Two ringin bolts attaching half shaft124358

Transmission brake guts is in good nick so will paint and freshen up124359

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

It may be - provided it is not hanging up on the shoes, which it possibly is because the shoes are stuck in place or covered in crud. Worth a try though. Note that if you have not drained the T/C, you will as soon as you remove this, so be prepared! It is quite likely that the actuator is stuck as well, and disconnecting the actuating rod and giving it a belt on the end may help. May not too, if the rollers are rusted in place.

Hitting the drum on opposite sides as I suggested, once free from the centre hole, this action will also tend to free it from the shoes, where a straight pull, such as you have if you undo the centre nut, will, if the shoes are stuck against the drum, tilt the shoes and make them grip more tightly. The hammer blows will shake them loose. (Hopefully)

Thanks John drum and boss came off easily.....the thing I missed first attempt was slacken off adjuster

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got the free wheeling hubs off this morning before heading into town for my primary school Friday wood working gig[smilebigeye]

124403

would seem free wheeling hubs only engage on half shaft by about 1/2"...........not sure wether to reinstate or go standard

124404124405124406

All progress from here front or back stymied by lack of nut tool on order[bigsad]


Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Free wheel hubs have little real advantage - although they do allow you to use low range on hard surfaces, for example when backing a trailer, but have the real disadvantage that if left unlocked for long periods are likely to result in damage to the swivels and possibly other parts due to lack of lubrication.

While some freewheel hubs are strong enough some aren't.

[bemm52]

My starter motor spring turned up today causing me to create special tool #1........I'm sure there will be more to come[thumbsupbig]

124554124556124557124558124559

Also stripped down free wheeling hubs to check, everything I pull apart seems to have silicon everywhere is there a better product to seal gaskets to hold back oil and grease?

124560 After cleaning like new will repaint bosses black..........maybe I will put them back on.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

No wind today so did some painting

124626

Mismatched tie rod end nuts and studs coming out rather than nuts off.....are lock tabs same as on steering box mounts? ....look the same will check

124627124628

Bent steering arms......thinking of trying to press these straight using yet to be thought of jig in my log splitter (got 45 tons of hydraulic power up my sleeve)[bighmmm]

124629

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Watch the studs holding the steering arms - one stud is fitted and must return to the same location! See the manual for details.

[bemm52]

Watch the studs holding the steering arms - one stud is fitted and must return to the same location! See the manual for details.

[bigsad] John I have kept studs relative to left or right hand side, and found your manual reference....6 studs #508152 and 2 studs #508153 ,my parts manual doesn't have these numbers.

Its nite at the moment and I'm away tomorrow, but is it fairly obvious where stud #508153 goes (different diameter or thread perhaps)

Some times I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer [bighmmm]

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Answered my own question stud #508153 is slightly bigger diameter than the other studs in the unthreaded part.

Thanks for heads up John



Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Time to bite the bullet on the bulkhead .........been not looking forward to this[bigsad]

124741 124742 124743 124744

In the words of Neil Young "rust never sleeps".......how right he is.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

After 8days in Sydney helping stepson with his kitchen upgrade, I'm home and have finished my bulkhead which is now rust free[bigsmile1]

126080 126081 126082

There is about a 12mm error here in rust replacement pressings which I will need to drill out, matching good passenger side hinge holes and windscreen pivot point outer skin is correct, bottom bulkhead
mount bracket and windscreen pivot both sides are the same (within 4mm)

126083

Found this at a market in Thirlmere thinking of mounting it on drivers side windscreen pivot plate

126084 126085

Got a few more pieces painted, but found when I unwrapped my previously painted vent covers to check bulkhead for distortion the bubble wrap I had wrapped them in had transferred to paint surfaces
So I had to sand and re paint[bigsad] the rest of the panels are painted and wrapt under my house I'm hoping they are not similarly effected[bigsad]

126086

Surplus to needs are these hacked repair skins if they can help anyone you can have them for postage cost

126087 126088 126089

Question where do I buy new rubber bushes for steering damper, can't find them on line as the ones that come up have a threaded screw and rubber fixing not a bush

126090

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Just get some shocky rubbers from repco. Should be fine.

Cheers Rod

[JDNSW]

Take a sample to any auto parts supplier.

perhaps worth noting that the steering damper on the 2a was always an optional extra, and is only needed for severe offroad work.

[Cap]

Paul, your garage and lr bits everywhere is like mine at the moment too. Was thinking its nice to know someone out there also is in similar position. Good work on the bulkhead too.

[bemm52]

Have set a goal of getting my car to Cooma for Easter so plugged away today and yesterday

first coat of black on an assortment of steering bits and straightened track rods with oxy not perfect but 100% on what they were.[bigsmile1]

126276126277

Wheel bearings are near new and all the same brand, but hubs are 4 different items and drive flange bolts are 3 different brands a few things have happened over 50 years[wink11]

126278126279126280126281126282

I need to re tap set screw hole in hub where I drilled out a stubborn screw does anyone know what size it is please

126284

Cheers Paul

[Chops]

Are you going to drive the 2a up or trailer it up there Paul?
Might be a few of us going up there, will be good to see them all together [biggrin]

[bemm52]

drive, trailer not sure............would be happier in a convoy if driving 2a as I'll be on my own

If you city guys from Melbourne take the Princess and then the Monaro I could link up at Cann River

Cheers paul

[Chops]

There'll be a small group of us going from here that I know of so far, but we'll be at Corowa for the weekend before first, so leaving the older cars up in Albury whilst we go back to Melb to work for a week, then head back up to Albury to pick up the vehicles and will be driving up through Tumut from there, missing the very steep and winding road up through Tumbarumba, Sue City to Cabramurra.
So I'm afraid the Monaro is out for us.

[bemm52]

found out the hard and the easy way to remove front swivel and hub

Hard way126342 Easy way126343

A couple of questions what is this bracket for passenger side swivel housing inboard top
126344

What is this blue goo finding it everywhere but its done a good job so want to use it on the rebuild
126345

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Bracket is for brake pipe on s3 only. Blue goo is prob silastic.

Cheers Rod

[Cap]

Blue = RTV gasket maker. I used the same on the 109 sump as I didnt have a gasket at the time (although bad idea as they can clog oil passages)

My next lot of work is also axles, so your a few steps ahead of me :)

[bemm52]

Spent some time today listing what I may need for the rebuild as far as seals gaskets and brake parts, I also looked for radiator hoses,

It would seem my radiator is military having an angled bottom outlet and not so common perhaps.
126430

Does any one have a similar radiator and know where to source hose locally at a reasonable price

Part number 543629

126416

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Some more bits painted

126482 126483

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Spent some time today listing what I may need for the rebuild as far as seals gaskets and brake parts, I also looked for radiator hoses,

It would seem my radiator is military having an angled bottom outlet and not so common perhaps.
126430

Does any one have a similar radiator and know where to source hose locally at a reasonable price

Part number 543629

126416

Cheers Paul

Could this be a series3 radiator.?

[Gordie]

that bottom hose looks the same as my Series 3.

[mick88]

Could this be a series3 radiator.?

Check the hoses listed below.
Angled bottom hose suits vehicle with Lucas Generator fitted.
Make sure you get quality like McKay (Bursons or Repco) or Dayco (Bursons) who do really good quality (imo) flexible hoses.
Dayco may do specific hoses too, I am not sure.

Cheers, Mick.

Land Rover Parts - RADIATOR - L/ROVER 4 cyl. with standard alternator 1968-84 (Copper or Aluminium) (http://www.roverparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/1032)

Mackay Consolidated | Excellence in Rubber Technology (http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/content/online-catalogue-search/)
Dayco - Radiator Hose - Flex Dayco(R) (http://dayco.com.au/products.aspx?G=16002215&P=16027751)

[Chops]

Spent some time today listing what I may need for the rebuild as far as seals gaskets and brake parts, I also looked for radiator hoses,

It would seem my radiator is military having an angled bottom outlet and not so common perhaps.
126430

Does any one have a similar radiator and know where to source hose locally at a reasonable price

Part number 543629

126416

Cheers Paul


Dave at Brittish Car Components/Britcar, has these. I just picked one up this evening for mine [thumbsupbig]

[russellrovers]

Spent some time today listing what I may need for the rebuild as far as seals gaskets and brake parts, I also looked for radiator hoses,

It would seem my radiator is military having an angled bottom outlet and not so common perhaps.
126430

Does any one have a similar radiator and know where to source hose locally at a reasonable price

Part number 543629

126416

Cheers Paul hi paul send me your address and i will post my spare one to jim

[bemm52]

Pretty much got everything off my vehicle except motor and gearboxes.......thought I would have a look at the dreaded steering relay which had no play or notchyness but I thought I would remove and paint.

It seems a P.O. has made a modification by adding a grease nipple........Good or bad idea?

126705 126706

Rear shock has an added bracket which would have been a bit of work, when I cleaned up rear shock it turns out to be a Gabriel which is confusing because they make a shock that would go straight on original mount
126708 126709

front shocks
126710126711

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

The grease nipple on the relay is neither necessary nor a particularly good idea. It will have been added by a previous owner to solve the problem of oil leaking out due to failure of the bottom seal. (Replacing the seal may have been difficult in pre-internet days with no local dealer). Grease will not adequately lubricate the fibre bushes in the relay, as these rely on oil soaking through the fibre, which grease will not do. Of course, you can always fill your grease gun with oil, but that defeats the idea of stopping the leak.

Similarly, it is probable that the shock absorber was one that was locally available, and it was easier to make the extra bracket rather than to try and get the correct one, with no local dealer.

[bemm52]

Thanks for your input John Iwill attempt to remove the relay and inspect the seals after removing the grease nipple....... I guess I will have to plug it in some way.

As far as the non standard shocks go I think I will leave bracket on and use existing shocks as they appeared to work OK

If my vehicle doesn't pass muster at rego for welding on chassis I can grind brackets off and get an inspection else where, I am also a little bit concerned about the removable gearbox cross member for same reason.

Cheers Paul

[Homestar]

I wouldn't worry too much about the welding on the chassis - for a start, most Mechanics wouldn't know what they are looking at and secondly the factory welds are hardly anything to write home about. Unless yours are nice and neat - that would make them stand out... ;)

[JohnboyLandy]

Hey Paul good luck with the relay removal, mine was finally freed just yesterday, but not entirely free from the chassis though as part of the chassis came out with it !!. My front cross member is a bit rusted, especially on the right side around the relay, so the chassis "tube" where the relay sits gave way before the relay did. I used a combination of engine stand under the relay, and whacking with a sledge hammer, and a big bearing puller. I got there in the end, but now I will replace the cross member.

Cheers,
John

[Phil B]

The seal can be replaced in situ I think

[bemm52]

Got a bit more painted in etch.....starting to feel the deconstruction coming to an end

126782

Pleased with springs a few weeks ago I thought I may have to split them.....thinking top coat them in a couple of coats of black then squirt oil in between leaves

126784

Burnt/melted out the rubber bushes in the springs with oxy which left the outer metal sleeve which refused to drift out, I'm assuming this is the bit that people cut through to remove, will pick up a metal blade for my jigsaw next time I'm in town. What causes these sleeves to bind and how difficult is it to install new ones do I need to find a press?

126792

Hope to get these split, cleaned up and primed tomorrow.

126794

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

A cold chisel driven under the turnover should expand the spring eye enough to allow the sleeve to be drifted out.

[bemm52]

A cold chisel driven under the turnover should expand the spring eye enough to allow the sleeve to be drifted out.

Will try tomorrow I'm assuming same technique for replacement.....they sure do lock in

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Without the rust, and with a thin layer of antiseize, the bushes can be pulled in easily with a suitable puller you can make up with a bolt and a couple of (1/2" drive) sockets. Expnding the eye to put them in should not be needed.

[easyjo]

Looks good, I'm probably going to put off springs on mine for a while just due to the inevitable hassle if the chassis bushings..

Out if interest where did you get the springs from? Any where local?

[bemm52]

Looks good, I'm probably going to put off springs on mine for a while just due to the inevitable hassle if the chassis bushings..

Out if interest where did you get the springs from? Any where local?

The springs were on the car when I bought it, wire wheeled them to get the rust off. my chassis bushings seem OK so will leave them in.

In hindsight my spring bushings were OK too except for one that had a bolt stuck in it that I had to grind off.

The idea was to fit polybushes which I had but now I think I'll go to original, poly bushes seem a bit harsh and hard not sure how this effects the ride.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

More paint

126862 126863 126864

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Still more paint today, I noticed my front diff has a bit of wire holding the hook things in while the back diff doesn't

126887 126888

Is this anything to be concerned about?

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

The wire lock gets a special mention in the manual, so I would think it is something to worry about. You really do not want these coming loose in service - that would really spoil your day!

[bemm52]

The wire lock gets a special mention in the manual, so I would think it is something to worry about. You really do not want these coming loose in service - that would really spoil your day!

[bigsad]???????????
could you elaborate a little please, why one diff has it and the other doesn't is the one without the weak link????????

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Picked up this today for hardtop and wheels.............and probably half my house because they only did it in 4 litres

126992

Egyptian hieroglyphics above formula mean after I quizzed manager "mixed by eye"............happy with colour but[bigsmile1]

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

[bigsad]???????????
could you elaborate a little please, why one diff has it and the other doesn't is the one without the weak link????????

Cheers Paul

The manual details the requirement to install lockwire to secure the "hook thing" and the cap bolts. If any of these move, they could enable the bearing adjuster to move. This would be likely to result in initially a noisy diff as the accuracy of mesh needed for silence is lost, probably soon followed by a broken crown wheel and/or bearing failure with further movement.

[bemm52]

Thanks for quick reply John I found Your manual reference
126998

Front Diff is as manual......... rear diff has no holes in bolts or hook thing for wire, I'm confused both diffs are apparently interchangeable, was wire superseded and I have diffs from two different eras.


Or is rear diff a cheap knock off copy.............long bow here ......but I feel I like the belt and braces wire better than no wire.


Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

It is quite possible that later diffs, such as Series 3, which are interchangeable, specified the use of threadlocker instead of wire. Although I don't see how that would lock the "hook". I don't have a Series 3 manual though.

[bemm52]

Had a bit of a look at my brake booster today........... the diaphragms are like new but the sponge filter behind the perforated disk (that I assume is an air intake) has become powder it looks like a serviceable item with an easily removed retaining clip. Will see if I can find one on line or try to make one.

127137 127140 127141

Getting to the smaller diaphragm below this all 4 Phillips set screws sheared [bigsad] so I will have to work out some fix

127142

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

I'm after a bit of help......after goggling filter I need all that is coming up is complete rebuild kits, quite exxy.

127145

The part I'm after is round foam thing second from top left.......any ideas....


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got the brake booster and brackets looking respectable, drilled enlarged and retapped sheered set screws......still pondering what type of foam to use under perforated disk. Hopefully I'll stumble on something before I have to install booster

127187

Installed poly bushes in half my springs


127188127189

Pile of refinished parts mounting......have crates of similarly wrapped bits all through my shed as well.


127190

Package arrived Thanks Russel Rovers[thumbsupbig]

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Steering relay came out by just pulling it out by hand and a pinch bar[bigsmile1]

127215

Was going to replace welsh plugs but after scratching around at the hard to get to rear one found it was new and brass


127216

Can borrow an engine crane, so soon motor and gear boxes can come out and I can get to chassis issues

127217 127218

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Today I was wheely busy got my rim collection cleaned up and etched ........six Sunrasia mags and five 5.5 Land Rover rims will try for first coat of limestone tomorrow

127244 127245

I have two 5'' rims left which I would like to swap for a 5.5'' .......Maybe Cooma at Easter

Cheers Paul

[Cap]

You're going great guns with the painting. Unfortunately for me, Tassie temps are getting really low even during the day as painting should be done above 10C. So ill be concentrating on mechanical stuff, so I can at least look at what your up to for some ideas :D

[bemm52]

First coat Limestone

127282

Surprisingly wheels are quiet difficult to paint......well for me anyway....starting to think about what rubber to put on L R rims, the chunkier the better I think

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

starting to think about what rubber to put on L R rims, the chunkier the better I think



What rims are they ? If they are LWB you can use 7.50 x 16. If so look out for Toyota Troopy take offs.

The Toyota comes with Dunlop Road Gripper 7.50 x 16's on split rims a lot of people & Government departments immediately remove them and fit wider wheels/tyres.
Typically you have to take the split rims which are hard to get rid of because there are so many around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/28.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XaFAkT)IMG_0769 (https://flic.kr/p/XaFAkT) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1079.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfWpVQ)DSCN4293 (https://flic.kr/p/XfWpVQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Colin

[bemm52]

Four rims and tyres to be fitted tomorrow so I can have a rolling chassis for rebuild.

127634

Motor and gearboxes out, motor oil leak free[bigsmile1] oil on gear boxes appears to be from selectors and poor filling or leaking bungs/plugs.

127635127636

Question time.................. are these brass bungs oil filling points???????

127637 there is another on the transfer case that when I undid it, it had a spring attached to it??????

127638 is the square plug an oil overflow level thing or something different (I got caught with a similar looking plug square thing when working on steering box)

What has happened to the transfer case to need these weld repairs in the past?

127639

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

............

Question time.................. are these brass bungs oil filling points??????? NO. They have a spring and ball under them to hold the selector shaft in position.

127637 there is another on the transfer case that when I undid it, it had a spring attached to it??????

127638 is the square plug an oil overflow level thing or something different (I got caught with a similar looking plug square thing when working on steering box)

It is the oil level plug

What has happened to the transfer case to need these weld repairs in the past? Heaven knows - got hit by a rock or a stick or rusted out? Never seen repairs to them. Not a home made part to replace one lost is it?

127639

Cheers Paul


Hope that helps,

[bemm52]

Thanks John..........to fill boxes, is it done through inspection plates?

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

Fill through the level plug holes.
When it starts to run out and down your arm the level is correct......


Colin

[JDNSW]

As Colin says - I use a pump in a 20l drum. However, the circular expansion plug in the top cover of the gearbox is a legacy of Series 1 gearboxes that had a filler cap and dipstick on top - and a hatch in the transmission tunnel to get at it.

[gromit]

Another way is a 1 litre bottle with the pull out nozzle that you can buy gear oil in. I use one of those and re-fill the pack.

I use EP 75W90 GL4 oil from a local blender, currently pricing is $25 for 5 litres which is much cheaper than most motor factors. Problem is freight is a killer so unless you can collect it's just as cheap to pay $45 locally.


Colin

[bemm52]

What rims are they ? If they are LWB you can use 7.50 x 16. If so look out for Toyota Troopy take offs.

The Toyota comes with Dunlop Road Gripper 7.50 x 16's on split rims a lot of people & Government departments immediately remove them and fit wider wheels/tyres.
Typically you have to take the split rims which are hard to get rid of because there are so many around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/28.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XaFAkT)IMG_0769 (https://flic.kr/p/XaFAkT) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1079.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfWpVQ)DSCN4293 (https://flic.kr/p/XfWpVQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Colin


Thanks for the heads-up Colin, spoke to my local tyre guy today while getting tyres fitted and he made a few calls and sourced me some of these[thumbsupbig]

Not the five I wanted but he said if I was prepared to wait he could get the rest.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Chassis rust time..................

127866 127867 127868patches on patches by PO's

127869 127870 127871

My surplus Puma bar fits with a little modification to dumb irons
127872 127873 127874 weld adjacent to hanger needs cleaning up[bighmmm]

So logically this should fit also

127875 wouldn't that look sweet[bigwhistle]

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

Is the Puma bar wider than the Series one ?

Colin

[bemm52]

Is the Puma bar wider than the Series one ?

Colin

Im not sure as I don't have one, Puma and series chassis rails are same distance apart.

I tried 130 hood sticks on 2a tub and they didn't fit ... Which makes sense as 130 tub is wider than cabin

my guess is Puma and series cabins are same width hence bumpers would be same length.

will measure cabin/bulkhead widths tomorrow.

Cheers Paul

[Chops]

The Puma bar is wider than the series.
The body width is basically the same, but the bar for the Puma is longer to cover the extra width of the wheel flares.

[bemm52]

This filler plug is refusing to move128261

Would it be possible to pour a measured amount of oil through here to fill? 128263 or here128264

Cheers Paul

[Cap]

Why not try and get it out? Eventually you will need to and best to do it now not in the vehicle. Even if you have to totally destroy it (drill though to loosen it on the threads etc).

[JDNSW]

Try heating the casing round the plug with a heat gun - aluminium expands more than iron. If necessary file or grip good flats on the plug to get a good grip with a spanner. You could fill a measured amount through either of the top covers, but you need the level plug for routine maintenance - you don't want to have to drain it to check the level.

[bemm52]

Try heating the casing round the plug with a heat gun - aluminium expands more than iron. If necessary file or grip good flats on the plug to get a good grip with a spanner. You could fill a measured amount through either of the top covers, but you need the level plug for routine maintenance - you don't want to have to drain it to check the level.


Thanks John will try heat gun my online searches suggested heating plug with oxy which seemed a bit risky to me considering alloy melting point.

Cap your right it has to come out or at least try harder .........if square end sheers off things are no worse than at present.

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

I don't think you would find it easy to damage the case with oxy unless you are using a cutting tip or very carless - aluminium is a very good conductor of heat, and the casing is fairly thick - but having said that, the heat gun is definitely free of any risk, and probably just as effective.

[bemm52]

Success.......... heat gun did the trick

128328 15mm socket fits snugly on 1/2" male end on breaker bar............female end of socket was hammered on plug.

one side of chassis painted

128329

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

I think you need a new plug!

[bemm52]

On its way.................

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Finally starting to reassemble things its a real joy to work with clean parts[bigsmile1]

128655

Could someone tell me if I've got the brake backing plate the right way around...........ie adjuster toward rear of vehicle


A mate brought round an old ammo box full of tools inside was this jem..........perfect for series oil filler plugs

128656128657128658


Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

New front brakes and swivel balls

128754 128755 128756

New "Roaded" Land Cruiser tyres on 67Hardtop's rims...............Thanks Rod[bigsmile1]

128757 128758

I hope I don't have any clearance issues........

After much thought I decided not to fit free wheeling hubs as I didn't like the fact that the hub end of the axle had no support when hub was disengaged.

In position but not fitted yet

128759should the wheels camber out at the top?.......looks a bit like a cartoon car

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

......

After much thought I decided not to fit free wheeling hubs as I didn't like the fact that the hub end of the axle had no support when hub was disengaged.

.......

128759should the wheels camber out at the top?.......looks a bit like a cartoon car

Cheers Paul

1. Support for the disengages stub shaft depends on the type of hub probably - the Warn hubs I have use a roller bearing to support it when disengaged.

2. Yes. 1.5 degrees according to the workshop manual.

[bemm52]

2. Yes. 1.5 degrees according to the workshop manual.



Maybe I'm overthinking things but my camber would seem to be more than 1.5 degrees, 1.5 in 365 surely is barely noticeable without measuring like toe in.

My concern is I did a complete disassemble and bought new swivel balls as old were stuffed, when reassembling I got one ball wrong fitting bearing and ryco bushes in wrong orifices (both same size)but rectified before fitting

Is there also a handing to the swivel balls I've missed. Unfortunately I'm a very novice mechanic but figure there is a lot of logic evolved in LR design.


Cheers Paul

[AJF]

Paul

how did you go getting the loading right on the front swivel balls? Was it easy? Any tricks?

cheers
angus

[67hardtop]

Hi Paul,
The balls arent handed. Those wheels look good. Can i have em back now??? Lol

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Thanks Rod I can sleep easy now[thumbsupbig]

[bemm52]

Paul

how did you go getting the loading right on the front swivel balls? Was it easy? Any tricks?

cheers
angus

Easy peasy all you need is a spring scale and shims..........add or subtract until you get to 6/7kg friction range, I used inner hole on passenger relay arm as I felt outer would distort reading by giving more leverage as opposed to shorter driver side.

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

One thing to note about the angle of the wheels - while the camber is only 1.5deg, the king pin inclination is 7deg, so the wheels lean more noticeably if not in the straight ahead position, especially if on full lock as the wheels are at different angles.

[JohnboyLandy]

Hey Paul, where did you get your balls from ? And did you buy genuine parts or after market ? And how much were they ???

[67hardtop]

I used a fishing scale to measure the preload on my swivel balls. The genuine workshop manual shows which hole to use on the steering arms. From memory its the track rod holes as they are in the same position on both sides but opposite way around obviously. Keep up the good work Paul.

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

After just over 12 months I now have a rolling chassis[bigrolf][bigrolf]

129064129065129066129067

Fuel tanks painted last bits to need paint[bigrolf][bigrolf]

129069

Cheers Paul

[JohnboyLandy]

Great effort Paul, although I'm sure "Freshen Up" is not an accurate description, you really have gone to town.

I will follow closely :-)

Cheers,
John

[bemm52]

a little more progress engine and gearbox in[bigsmile1].........if I had to do it again I would lift engine and gearbox in as one unit[bighmmm]

129247 129248

Not quiet Duck Egg Blue but I'm happy with result

Cheers Paul

[NOMIS1234]

That is looking very very nice! I am planning on doing mine up very similar. Always brings a smile to my face when I see your posts. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Simon

[Cap]

Making huge progress. I suppose the dismantling and cleaning, painting etc always takes the most time. Good work, enjoying your posts.

[bemm52]

After doing most things twice...........who would have thought rear axle straps were handed.......... some progress shots

129393 129394 129395 129396

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Rear axle straps arent handed AFAIK. there were several different lengths for different models tho. Umm 2 lengths for shorties and about 4 for 109's possibly 5.
Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Rear axle straps arent handed AFAIK. there were several different lengths for different models tho. Umm 2 lengths for shorties and about 4 for 109's possibly 5.
Cheers Rod

G'day Rod, mine has two different lengths with the passenger side being longer to accommodate axle reinforcing on that side, end result is same clearance both sides..........of course I started on the drivers side and installed strap for passenger side[bigwhistle]

when I moved around to passenger side remaining strap was to short[bigsad]

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Oh ok Paul. I dont have a shorty but was told they were the same l 2 r. I have some axle straps at home but they r too short for my 109 so i thought they were of a 88. I stand corrected. Thanks for putting me straight. I dont like giving out wrong info. Id like a shorty but i dont have the room for one atm.

Cheers mate
Rod

[bemm52]

First green bit in place[bigsmile]

129490 129491 129492 129493 129494

Going to try and fit tub tomorrow so I can line up bulkhead....rear brake lines are in and pipe run to switch junction thingo in front of bulkhead..... as is wiring through chassis rail for rear lighting.

Cheers Paul

[NOMIS1234]

First green bit in place[bigsmile]

129490 129491 129492 129493 129494

Going to try and fit tub tomorrow so I can line up bulkhead....rear brake lines are in and pipe run to switch junction thingo in front of bulkhead..... as is wiring through chassis rail for rear lighting.

Cheers Paul

Wow, that looks super satisfying!!! You won't want to take it off road! Living your progress.
Cheers
Simon

[Chops]

a little more progress engine and gearbox in[bigsmile1].........if I had to do it again I would lift engine and gearbox in as one unit[bighmmm]

129247 129248

Not quiet Duck Egg Blue but I'm happy with result

Cheers Paul

Not really wanting to hijack your thread Paul, but just wondering about engine colour. Is "Duck Egg Blue" the original colour, is this year related, or is model related, as in 1/2/2A, how'd you find out or source this info exactly?

[bemm52]

G day Marcus not sure about engine colour.....I went with blue because I'd seen a few builds on the forum with engines "duck egg blue" and I liked the look
I'm sure someone will answer more concisely about engine colour re year
I'll admit I'm not a rivet counter and are building a car that looks right to me, it keeps changing I enitially painted pedals silver they are now black.
Deep bronze green works really well with black, silver, limestone and blue to my eye
Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Tub on [bigsmile]

129566129568129570129572

Minor clash between exhaust and tub which needs some adjustment.....no biggie but needs to be fixed

129576

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Very impressive, as is your pile of firewood!!

Panel work is next for me, I'm finding it a bit daunting and keep putting it off for any reason; I've never done any panel beating in my life before so I'm not too sure how to approach it...

Peter.

[67hardtop]

.....

Panel work is next for me.....I've never done any panel beating in my life before so I'm not too sure how to approach it...

Peter.

Very carefully and gently with aluminium panels.

Cheers Rod

Ps...im leaving my dents in. Too scary for me..

[bemm52]

Very impressive, as is your pile of firewood!!



Peter.

Aim is to have all three bays of that woodshed stacked to the roof within the next month cutting season ends on the end of November but it's hard yakka later in the season in the heat

One bay stacked 6 rows deep equals one winter burn

A little car progress pondering seat belts at the moment and how to fit in a topless configuration.

Not sure if I need them for rego

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Very carefully and gently with aluminium panels.

Cheers Rod

Ps...im leaving my dents in. Too scary for me..


I agree Gently with a good dolly behind

Rod is there any chance you could post a picture of those series 3 seat belt mounts you showed me in Adelaide.......I vaguely remember them being on tub wall but I could be wrong and just can't picture them now, should of taken a picture while there[bigwhistle]

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Ill try Paul,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/523.jpg
Shoulder mount and reel at the bottom

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/524.jpg
Rear mount of the reel inside the tub is just an alloy plate.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/525.jpg
The mount plates under the front lip of the tub where the buckles and lap centre belt are mounted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/526.jpg
The strap that bolts from the buckle mounts back to the chassis s3 onwards.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/527.jpg
The shoulder mount brackets for lwb van style body.

I dont have a pic of the lower mount but its the same as current defenders in the rear corner of the seat tub.
Hope this helps.

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Work on 2a has slowed a bit due to DELWAP doing some roadside clearing providing some easy get fire wood[smilebigeye]

129870 129871 129872

Did some work on bulkhead aligning

129873

Which led to the invention of special tool #2

129874 129875

Bulkhead is now parallel to tub, I unwrapped my doors to find bubble wrap had telegraphed into finish[bawl] so sand and respray ....have left over paint

129881 Pic before bulkhead aligned

Cheers Paul

[grey_ghost]

Nice firewood!

[bemm52]

Nice firewood!

And a real easy get you can drive right up to it....we've done ten loads so far, so five or six to go to fill our wood sheds to capacity
Probably 3 years worth of burning....what usually happens is after they clear roadside they wait for it to dry out a bit then burn it ....I don't think they will risk it this year with the bush as dry as it is....fortunately their are only 50 permanent residents in our little town so there's plenty for everyone

Cheers Paul

[grey_ghost]

Darn I was that I lived closer to you!

[Chops]

Darn I was that I lived closer to you!


"Road trip", with the Series and a couple of trailers of course [wink11] [biggrin]