View Full Version : Camshaft Refit
Anthony Violi
19th December 2016, 11:17 AM
New cam fitted. Checking end float RAVE indicates .05mm - .35mm. Thrust plate has zero wear however my measurements indicate .65mm. More than RAVE suggests. I can't think of what I have done wrong. Checked new cam obviously RED. Does anyone have any ideas? Please help
PhilipA
19th December 2016, 01:39 PM
I don't think it matters seeing all previous engines had no thrust plate and relied on the timing chain and the cam lobe slope to keep the cams in place.
Some engines used to rattle at idle and a thrust button which rubbed on the timing cover was a factory fix .
But in practical terms I would not be concerned.
Regards Philip A
Anthony Violi
28th January 2017, 01:19 PM
Water pump gasket, RAVE says to strictly use Shell Retinax LX grease. Where can I find? Are there any alternatives?
Keithy P38
29th January 2017, 09:31 AM
I've never used any form of sealant on a water pump gasket in the 7 years I've been P38ing. No leaks, no issues! As long as you've taken all the old gasket and sealant off and the face is smooth you won't have any dramas.
Cheers
Keithy
TheTree
29th January 2017, 12:39 PM
Water pump gasket, RAVE says to strictly use Shell Retinax LX grease. Where can I find? Are there any alternatives?
I sometimes smear a little grease on the gasket to hold it in place while I get the bolts in, but it's just whatever I have in my grease gun !
Steve
Anthony Violi
30th January 2017, 01:29 PM
ARP studs in, first torque 100 ft lbs done. Second torque, first stud top centre and stud pulls away, taking thread with it. My fear realised.
Do not know what to do next, help please?
Thanks
Anthony
donh54
30th January 2017, 01:41 PM
100 ft/lbs sounds like a lot for something screwing into aluminium. IIRC that's about what we used to do M12 bolts up to for clamping pump flanges together.
I suppose helicoil or something similar is your next step, :(
TheTree
30th January 2017, 01:47 PM
What a bummer mate :(
I did mine in three stages, I seem to remember 33, 66 then 100 and I had no problems at all.
A helicoil will do the job and give a very strong hold, but it's weird you stripped a stud like that.
I assume you cleaned out the holes in the block and got the studs all the way in ?
Good luck
Steve
Anthony Violi
30th January 2017, 02:01 PM
Hand tightened using Allen key, checked all the heights, cleaned out holes, spotless. The only thing I can think of, perhaps Elgin gaskets too thick?
Helicoils not sure, some have had successs others not. Metal inserts another option. Do these options require engine out?
TheTree
30th January 2017, 02:07 PM
Hand tightened using Allen key, checked all the heights, cleaned out holes, spotless. The only thing I can think of, perhaps Elgin gaskets too thick?
Helicoils not sure, some have had successs others not. Metal inserts another option. Do these options require engine out?
I can't see how the gaskets being too thick would cause a stud to strip.
Others will have opinions on helicoils v inserts, and you should not have to take the engine out to do them.
Maybe ask in the tech talk section of the forum ?
Steve
Anthony Violi
30th January 2017, 02:16 PM
My mistake, forgot to use ARP fastener lubricant on block threads. Helps with tension loads on first several cycles. Lesson learnt. Relieved I don't need to remove engine.
PLR
30th January 2017, 03:19 PM
My mistake, forgot to use ARP fastener lubricant on block threads. Helps with tension loads on first several cycles. Lesson learnt. Relieved I don't need to remove engine.
G`day ,
you may want to have a look at the ARP site and the updated December 2016 figures they now give . You still decide on what to use though .
I`ve used helicoil type for head bolts before and would be my preference because they can be fitted to the height wanted and the breaking of pins it .
TheTree
30th January 2017, 04:45 PM
G`day ,
you may want to have a look at the ARP site and the updated December 2016 figures they now give . You still decide on what to use though .
I`ve used helicoil type for head bolts before and would be my preference because they can be fitted to the height wanted and the breaking of pins it .
I see they are now stating 70 ft lbs !! I guess I was lucky to get to 100 safely :o
Steve
ozscott
30th January 2017, 05:43 PM
A few weeks ago I did 75 pounds using ARP lube into my 4.6 P38A block and it felt good and felt right. Cheers
ozscott
30th January 2017, 05:44 PM
I use Permatex Aviation Formagasket on the actual gasket for the water pump. Just a bit of added protection. Use sparingly. Cheers
Pedro_The_Swift
30th January 2017, 06:05 PM
would much rather use 100 than 70!!!!:cool:
Anthony Violi
30th January 2017, 07:33 PM
Can I still use ARP studs with a helicoil?
ozscott
30th January 2017, 07:49 PM
Don't see why not. I reckon stress on threaded hole of any sort has to be less than that applied by a torque to yield bolt...
Just make sure it's well bedded in and full length.
Cheers
Anthony Violi
30th January 2017, 07:58 PM
Can I buy and install myself?
ozscott
30th January 2017, 08:10 PM
I suppose so if you are absolutely able to get a perfectly aligned hole drilled. Mate if you are metro for a fee of about $100 a mobile guy should come to you and do it. I would let the experts do it mate. They do a lot of them each week and you only have one block..
Cheers
PLR
30th January 2017, 09:13 PM
Can I buy and install myself?
G`day ,
that would probably depend on your experience .
If you can drill a square hole and use a tap then it is fairly simple . ( pretty sure there will be how to on the net )
You will have your own way of doing it , whatever your comfortable with .
To drill squarely you can fit the other studs in their holes and use them as a guide for the angle of the drill bit , both ways lined up will be pretty much square .
There are of coarse other ways too .
I use Recoil brand because where i am that`s what can be found local , most nuts and bolts ETC specialists will have a kit .
The tap is not a normal size , so is special but in the kit .
When i say kit it only has the tap the tool to fit the coils and some coils .
The drill bit is extra and not in the kit .
The drill bit size needed to drill the block is either 11.5mm or 29/64 .
The thread that was in the block ( before it was removed ) is UNC 7/16 or
the ARP stud end that you fit into the block is UNC 7/16 .
The coils have various depths and are measured in mm .
As suggested if you not comfortable and have the option of a mobile bloke it may suit your purpose , i don`t have that option and the kit and drill bit may cost more than a mobile bloke , long time since i bought mine .
Cheers
Edit = when i typed square hole i think i meant hole square as that make sense .
Anthony Violi
13th February 2017, 07:16 PM
Correct me if I'm wrong. ARP studs 3 stages. Each stage to 100 ft lbs?
Pedro_The_Swift
13th February 2017, 07:58 PM
Glad to hear you fixed it:D
I asked for an even 4. add 25 each time around.
ozscott
13th February 2017, 08:02 PM
Correct me if I'm wrong. ARP studs 3 stages. Each stage to 100 ft lbs?
The updated instructions for head studs from ARP is to 70 foot pounds. Pedro went 100. I emailed ARP and they told me the studs would break at 100... I would be wore worried about threads in the alloy before worrying about hard steel. Cheers
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