GOE Height Sensor Rods

[bjasch94]

As many of you know, GOE sells Height Sensor Rods for an affordable "lift kit" alternative for D3s D4s RRs etc... However there are a couple of things on their website that confuse me a little bit. Such as a paragraph that says that replacing the height sensor rods is not recommended for long drives and that people have destroyed their CVs after as little as 600kms (link to webpage: Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/eas-heights---details)). I'd love to get the opinion of some more experience LR owners.

Basically, as with all suspension lifts, this product forces the CV joints and airbags to work harder than normal. What I'm wondering is if there is anything to worry about?

Does anyone use these products and has anyone had bad experiences. Alternatively, has anyone had some great experiences with sensor rod replacements long term?

Background: I plan to cross the Simpson Desert in June/July '17. Having the extra clearance over days of sand driving would be an excellent improvement.

Thanks for all your inputs!

[LandyAndy]

The rods have a standard height hole,so you can use the extended height where you need it and revert to standard after.
If you are going outback have you got a decent fault diagnosis reader???
If not look at a Idtool.It will do all the height raising/speed raising etc plus you have the diagnosis tool.Cost is similar to the Llams.
This group buy is closed,prices are similar due to AUD fluctuation.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/group-buy/239881-iidtool-bluetooth-group-buy.html

Plenty of info here.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/239473-gap-diagnostic-introduction-2016-08-09-new-apple-app-firmware.html

Andrew

[go-disco4]

Hi

I have used the Rods on the off road setting crossing the Simpson as well as on all High Country trips. I set them back to normal height when doing highway speed. I hardly exceed 60 kmph when I am on the off road setting. Never had problems with CV nor damage to the driveline.

Gordon can inform on this, but I think the main issue is when you drive at highway speed with the rods on off road setting?

GD 4

[bjasch94]

Very interesting, that sounds quite good. Looks like an extremely detailed tool.

Thanks.

[DiscoJeffster]

I use the All Height feature of IIDTool to achieve the same effect electronically. Takes 30 seconds - plug in, set value, unplug.

[discorevy]

X3 on the gap iid , Bluetooth version is worth the extra , and as LandyAndy pointed out , you really want a diagnostic tool on a trip like that , duckworths do a really good price on the BT version

[LRD414]

I agree regarding the iiD tool and have a BT one myself.
I also have Llams to take care of height control with even more convenience than the iiD tool.

However, regarding your original question about vehicle damage .....

Leaving your vehicle at higher than normal ride height for extended periods at high speed will lead to reduced lifespan on CVs, etc.
This has nothing to do with how the height is set (rods/iiD/llams).

But the slower speeds offroad such as Simpson or VHC or whatever will not be as severe.
But even then I always go back to normal height whenever it's practical to do so and this is the real advantage of Llams.
It is so easy and quick to change height without stopping and/or looking at any screen.

Cheers,
Scott

[Tombie]

What they're saying is if you get the IID tool don't get the rods :)

Just to throw it in the mix. I don't do Sand as a rule at +50.
I run at +30mm using Llams (which is in cab adjustable)

[scarry]

I ordered the rods before a Simpson desert trip,and they didn't arrive in time.

I did the trip,across and back fully loaded, no problems at all without them.

[go-disco4]

Hi

The official speed where the Disco 4 goes from Off road to normal height is 50 kmph as per handbook. I noticed that it automatically changes around 55 Kph in practice. So the LR spec is that up to 50 kph is OK on off road height

GD4

[Tombie]

Hi



The official speed where the Disco 4 goes from Off road to normal height is 50 kmph as per handbook. I noticed that it automatically changes around 55 Kph in practice. So the LR spec is that up to 50 kph is OK on off road height



GD4



55 is your speedo error [emoji41]

[Disco-tastic]

What they're saying is if you get the IID tool don't get the rods :)

Just to throw it in the mix. I don't do Sand as a rule at +50.
I run at +30mm using Llams (which is in cab adjustable)
Or use the rods to travel over 50kph at "off road" height, because the car thinks it's at normal height. [emoji106]

[Lukeis]

Whenever I use the lift rods to force the car into extended mode (off-road height in the car but highest setting on the rods) I feel extremely nervous at the risk of damaging the car even at a snails pace and for this reason rarely use it..

Am I being too cautious? How likely is it for something to break at this height while negotiating rough obstacles? And what is likely to go first?

There are a lot of creaks when off-roading in a D4 which probably doesn't help my anxiety in extended mode..

[Grentarc]

Whenever I use the lift rods to force the car into extended mode (off-road height in the car but highest setting on the rods) I feel extremely nervous at the risk of damaging the car even at a snails pace and for this reason rarely use it..

Am I being too cautious? How likely is it for something to break at this height while negotiating rough obstacles? And what is likely to go first?

There are a lot of creaks when off-roading in a D4 which probably doesn't help my anxiety in extended mode..
At this height, avoid full steering lock and lots of right foot - that's when a CV will go.

[Disco-tastic]

Ive driven at that height a number of times, by putting the car into extended mode. In all honesty i don't see why you would need a heavy right foot at that height in a D4 (except for maybe in slippery mud, where there is less chance of breaking a cv anyway). The traction control will find whatever traction is there and steady, careful throttle is all thats required.

From what ive heard the CV's are pretty darn strong too...

Edit: spelling

[Grentarc]

Ive driven at that height a number of times, by putting the car into extended mode. In all honesty i don't see why you would need a heavy right foot at that height in a D4 (except for maybe in slippery mud, where there is less chance of vreaking a cv anyway). The traction control will find whatever traction is there and steady, careful throttle is all thats required.

From what ive heard the CV's are pretty darn strong too...
It has to do with angles, and all CVs are weak at extreme angles. It happens when people get stuck in sand, or on steep rocky climbs and need to turn.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/128131-broken-inner-front-cv.html

[Disco-tastic]

Not saying they can't break. More that the times i have been in super extended mode i havent needed a heavy right foot. Every time I've needed it has been at crawling pace. :)

[Grentarc]

Not saying they can't break. More that the times i have been in super extended mode i havent needed a heavy right foot. Every time I've needed it has been at crawling pace. :)
Every time I have needed it I have made sure I'm at crawling pace!

[Graeme]

A right front CV is prone to pulling apart slipping its circlip due to insufficient shaft length rather than breaking although they also break with enough abuse.

[DiscoJeffster]

A right front CV is prone to pulling apart slipping its circlip due to insufficient shaft length rather than breaking although they also break with enough abuse.



That's interesting. One would have expected the shocks would be sized for droop to manage the CV shaft length.

[Russrobe]

That's interesting. One would have expected the shocks would be sized for droop to manage the CV shaft length.
Unless the shocks are worn out.. And most people's probably are unless they've been changed in the last 60 000 to 70 000 kms.

Or 200 000km like mine hadn't been. :P

[loanrangie]

Old post but has relevance for me, a Llams or Gap tool are down the list a bit so thinking of getting the GOE rods for the mean time. I was just going to get the 2 position but think for the extra $20 odd may be worth getting the 3 position so i can leave them on but be able to quickly revert to stock geometry.

[scarry]

Old post but has relevance for me, a Llams or Gap tool are down the list a bit so thinking of getting the GOE rods for the mean time. I was just going to get the 2 position but think for the extra $20 odd may be worth getting the 3 position so i can leave them on but be able to quickly revert to stock geometry.

I have a brand new set 2 position never used,open to offers.

PM if interested

[justinc]

Ive replaced a lhf cv on a d3.... from extended mode and mudders on rock with no mechanical sympathy. ..😮

[loanrangie]

Ive replaced a lhf cv on a d3.... from extended mode and mudders on rock with no mechanical sympathy. ..😮

That would do it , luckily i drive in a manor in which i want to get home.

[cjc_td5]

Old post but has relevance for me, a Llams or Gap tool are down the list a bit so thinking of getting the GOE rods for the mean time. I was just going to get the 2 position but think for the extra $20 odd may be worth getting the 3 position so i can leave them on but be able to quickly revert to stock geometry.
I have 2 position rods, 0mm & +60mm. I couldn't see the need to go any more complicated than this.

I only use +60mm at std height unless off road height only for special short periods. +110mm would asking for trouble if used for extended periods or high loads or high speeds.