Hubcap issues

[JDNSW]

On my recent trip to Yass, I lost the LH front hubcap. Made a makeshift repair for the trip home, and replaced the cap, using some silicone to try and ensure it stayed on.

Made another trip to town yesterday, and found I was getting some oil leaking from under the new cap. Then, this morning, noted that the RH front cap had popped off as it was parked.

I have moved the car into the workshop to further investigate, but what I am suspecting is a blocked breather to the front axle, possibly combined with the hubcaps softening given the forty plus temperatures we are getting (yesterday it was still above forty just on dark!).

But I don't think I will be doing much in the shed until it cools down a bit!

John

[Gumnut]

Well, my 130 failed rego for an oil leak!!!! rear hub seal. When I opened the breather, the single hole was choked to billio. So I drilled it through to make two holes, no problem since....
Gumnut

[87County]

FWIW I have found that hubcaps which are generic non-genuine LR parts are more likely to leak and/or come off.

[JDNSW]

This morning I have cleaned everything up and replaced the hubcaps. I removed the breather fitting on the axle, and it may have been blocked, but blew out easily with compressed air, so not very solidly blocked. Also blew through the tubing up to the firewall, and it is definitely not blocked.

The hubcaps I have are far softer than the originals, especially with the weather we have had lately, and I wonder if this is what the problem is.

John

[I Love My Landy!]

A bit of silicon glue smeared into the groove on the drive flange helps keep my cheapo hub caps on.

Edward :)

[JDNSW]

That is exactly what I did!

John

[Tank]

That is exactly what I did!

John
John, I have found that unless the areas you are applying Silicone to are spotlessly clean and free of grease/oil residue then the Silicone will fail.
I use straight Acetone/Carby/throttle body cleaner/Brake cleaner/Aerostart (cans)or some other toxic cleaner to get rid of any ingrained oil/grease usually not removed when normally cleaned.
I gather that the hub caps are the rubber ones, will a metal hub cap fit, I have a few diffs at workshop so I'll have a look and if their suitable I'll post them to you, let you know this arvo and get your postal address, Regards frank.

[JDNSW]

John, I have found that unless the areas you are applying Silicone to are spotlessly clean and free of grease/oil residue then the Silicone will fail.
I use straight Acetone/Carby/throttle body cleaner/Brake cleaner/Aerostart (cans)or some other toxic cleaner to get rid of any ingrained oil/grease usually not removed when normally cleaned.
I gather that the hub caps are the rubber ones, will a metal hub cap fit, I have a few diffs at workshop so I'll have a look and if their suitable I'll post them to you, let you know this arvo and get your postal address, Regards frank.

Thanks for the offer Frank. The metal Series ones are quite a lot deeper, but might work.

One of my long term ideas I have never got round to following up on is to make some alloy ones. Just need to find dome free machining alloy stock, and turn to size - positive location with one or two grub screws into the groove, and seal with an O-ring in an internal groove in the cap.

I used degreaser followed by mineral turps to clean the surfaces.

Another thought I had might be to turn a steel ring perhaps 10mm wide and 2mm thick that can be driven over the outside of the soft cap, preventing it from expanding to get out of the groove.

John

[Tank]

Thanks for the offer Frank. The metal Series ones are quite a lot deeper, but might work.

One of my long term ideas I have never got round to following up on is to make some alloy ones. Just need to find dome free machining alloy stock, and turn to size - positive location with one or two grub screws into the groove, and seal with an O-ring in an internal groove in the cap.

I used degreaser followed by mineral turps to clean the surfaces.

Another thought I had might be to turn a steel ring perhaps 10mm wide and 2mm thick that can be driven over the outside of the soft cap, preventing it from expanding to get out of the groove.

John
Mineral Turps will leave a residue behind, really need a toxic solvent that will evaporate off, thinners would do, I'll get back to you after I get back from the workshop, Regards Frank.

P.S. John, just checked the SIII I have in the front yard (mid 70's) it has metal hub caps on the rear axle, would they fit, if you don't know send me the I.D. of the hub in inches (my caliper is in inches).

[JDNSW]

Frank, I don't have to - I have plenty of the metal Series hubcaps and while they are very close, they are a loose fit on the 110 drive flanges.

John

[Tank]

Frank, I don't have to - I have plenty of the metal Series hubcaps and while they are very close, they are a loose fit on the 110 drive flanges.

John
OK, I'll let you know if there are any of the plastic/rubber ones at the workshop, Regards Frank.

[gromit]

Had a similar problem with my Defender years ago and 'genuine' ones fixed the problem. One of the few items I've actually purchased from a Land Rover dealer.......

Colin

[jimr1]

Another option is to fit after market flanges with screw caps . The only problem is they cost a lot more than plastic cap . I remember being in a servo in Makay getting fuel and noticed I had one cracked and leaking , anyway there was a Land Rover dealership across the road . Popped in and asked do you have hub cap for 86 110 ? No sorry we don't carry them , but can order them in for you . That was quite a few years ago !!.. Jim

[JDNSW]

Another option is to fit after market flanges with screw caps . The only problem is they cost a lot more than plastic cap . I remember being in a servo in Makay getting fuel and noticed I had one cracked and leaking , anyway there was a Land Rover dealership across the road . Popped in and asked do you have hub cap for 86 110 ? No sorry we don't carry them , but can order them in for you . That was quite a few years ago !!.. Jim

We have a local Landrover dealer here (Dubbo). In the interests of supporting local suppliers I have occasionally tried to get parts from them - I have yet to find a single part that they stock - they don't even stock filters for my cars; there are multiple outlets here that do though (and probably cheaper! Which may explain why the dealer doesn't).

John

[87County]

Another option is to fit after market flanges with screw caps . The only problem is they cost a lot more than plastic cap . I remember being in a servo in Makay getting fuel and noticed I had one cracked and leaking , anyway there was a Land Rover dealership across the road . Popped in and asked do you have hub cap for 86 110 ? No sorry we don't carry them , but can order them in for you . That was quite a few years ago !!.. Jim

The aftermarket flanges with the threaded caps are reportedly significantly longer lasting but they're over $120ea.

[jimr1]

The aftermarket flanges with the threaded caps are reportedly significantly longer lasting but they're over $120ea.
Hi I know they cost a lot more , I was lucky they were fitted to front and fear of my extreme when I brought it Maxidrive . Also to my old 110 county rear . I was lucky I was in the UK last year and brought a set for 40 pounds about $65 . at the Land Rover show . I think you can get them cheeper than $ 120 each on E bay , . but they are still a lot more than the plastic caps ? Jim :)

[gromit]

PM770 | Heavy duty drive flanges - pair - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/pm770-heavy-duty-drive-flanges-pair.html)

Interesting that it states that the 'original plastic caps can be used if required'.


Colin

[460cixy]

PM770 | Heavy duty drive flanges - pair - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/pm770-heavy-duty-drive-flanges-pair.html)

Interesting that it states that the 'original plastic caps can be used if required'.


Colin

These are the way to go who ever came up with that pos rubber junk needs rooting with a wire brush

[JDNSW]

No further issues so far - maybe the breather was blocked; but I have not been driving in temperatures much above 40 since then. The next two or three days will be, but I'm staying home!

John

[simmo]

I bought 2 new caps from austral landrover in brisbane for $8 each, One of mine on the front was leaking a little, because it was old and cracked. Its probably been on there 5 or 6 years , I remember last time they cost only $5.my hubs are oil filled, I don't see the issue, they're cheap and do the job. I'm happy to carry a couple of spares in case one leaks or gets knocked off in the bush. They're easy to get on an off, if you don't have oil filled hubs , you can put a little grease in them and protect your flanges and drive shafts from fretting damage. cheers simmo

[Xtreme]

^^ x2
I also run oil filled hubs and rubber caps (on front only, Maxidrive on rear) and haven't had a problem. Also carry a couple of spares but haven't needed to use them in the last 15 years.

[85county]

I have replaced the plastic, after market caps on the 85 County with the Land Rover branded rubber ones after oil started leaking out of one of them and spraying all over the wheel. I also applied some Loctite 518 flange sealant just for good measure. I had used silicone previously but found that it can fail. My 2012 Defender now runs Maxidrive (HTE) rear axles and HTE drive flanges all-round. Caps are sealed with Loctite 577 thread sealant, which remains flexible. Wheel bearings are now oil-fed. Not cheap, but good insurance and very happy with that!

[simmo]

if they spray oil on the wheel it could be theres too much oil in the hubs.

my hubs still have the seal in place seperating them from the CV spheres, and the CV s are sealed from the diff.

there is a bit of oil migration , but generally it all stays in the right places.
if you can drain them and refill them, 60 mls is what I'm running in mine down from 80 mls when I first converted.
cheers simmo