tee in accessories on EAS system

[prelude]

I have read quite a bit on using the EAS system of our P38's for other tools such as inflating tyres and what not. I intend to run my lockers from that system for ease of install, use and reduce the complexity of my vehicle (which is complex enough as it is :) )

The consensus seems to be that the best place to tap into the air suplly is hose 6 which runs to and from the air tank. I am concerned though that this may cause the air dryer to quickly become saturated or water to build up in the airtank. Running a pair of lockers won't be any problem since the amount of air used is negligible but inflating tyres is another story :)

Having looked into the diagram on how EAS works, the only solution would be to tee in to the air dryer circuit and either make a mechanical bypass from the air tank or make it so one can operate the inlet valve manually. Not sure any of those ideas are the way to go yet...

Anyone have a better idea? thoughts? Please ;)

Thanks!

-P

[TheTree]

I have read quite a bit on using the EAS system of our P38's for other tools such as inflating tyres and what not. I intend to run my lockers from that system for ease of install, use and reduce the complexity of my vehicle (which is complex enough as it is :) )

The consensus seems to be that the best place to tap into the air suplly is hose 6 which runs to and from the air tank. I am concerned though that this may cause the air dryer to quickly become saturated or water to build up in the airtank. Running a pair of lockers won't be any problem since the amount of air used is negligible but inflating tyres is another story :)

Having looked into the diagram on how EAS works, the only solution would be to tee in to the air dryer circuit and either make a mechanical bypass from the air tank or make it so one can operate the inlet valve manually. Not sure any of those ideas are the way to go yet...

Anyone have a better idea? thoughts? Please ;)

Thanks!

-P

Hi

I have teeed in near the valve block inlet

Steve

[prelude]

Steve,

Would that be the inlet from the compressor to the valve block, or the inlet from the air tank?

Thanks,

-P

[Scouse]

I've seen the drain plug at the back of the tank drilled & tapped for an airline if you don't want to disturb the EAS components.

[prelude]

though that is a very good idea, it still takes the inlet air through the dehumidifier but the air out bypasses it. I'm worried it'll kill that thing in no time, at least the filling. I have looked into an industrial dehumidifier but they are fairly big, expensive and cost quite a bit of air to operate, in relation to our tiny little compressors :)

[Scouse]

You could always run a small water trap (and regulator if you wish) like on workshop air compressors.

[TheTree]

Steve,

Would that be the inlet from the compressor to the valve block, or the inlet from the air tank?

Thanks,

-P

You can't get to the inlet from the compressor to the valve block, only the main airline which connects the valve block, the dryer and the tank

[prelude]

I'll look into one of those workshop traps. Smallest I could find so far is 40cm long so that is still quite a large cylinder. Not sure about how well they handle heat under the bonnet :)

-P

[Scouse]

40cm??
I was thinking along the lines of one of these:
120255
There's various sizes available but most are around the 20cm mark.

[prelude]

Would these dry the air as well as our inline dryers? It seems to me that the item you posted does not remove all the moisture from the air and the range rovers dryer, due to the filling, removes practically everything.

I was looking at one of these, these are used in applications like spray painting since any moist in there will ruin your coating :)

http://content2.smcetech.com/pdf/IDG-A_EU.pdf

Am I beeing overzealous? (if that is the correct word for it)

-P

[Scouse]

The regulator/filter I posted is the type I use for spray painting.

The factory drier is nothing fancy, it's just filled with decisant.

[TheTree]

Would these dry the air as well as our inline dryers? It seems to me that the item you posted does not remove all the moisture from the air and the range rovers dryer, due to the filling, removes practically everything.

I was looking at one of these, these are used in applications like spray painting since any moist in there will ruin your coating :)

http://content2.smcetech.com/pdf/IDG-A_EU.pdf

Am I beeing overzealous? (if that is the correct word for it)

-P

I think you may be a little over zealous ;) I have never heard of a problem with moisture in the EAS. You can get desiccant kits from various suppliers if you find the desiccant is crumbling or failing.

Steve

[Keithy P38]

I don't know if it's still here or not, but I've done this twice over my P38ing!

First one, I installed a second OEM compressor in the engine bay and ran it in parallel with the factory one, teed in at the air dryer. I then took the drain plug out of the air tank, fitted a ball valve (to prevent losing air in a mishap), and ran air lines to the engine bay and load compartment for inflating and what not.

This time around I fitted an ARB compressor behind the rear seats, running through a secondary P38 Air Dryer (located under the parcel tray area above the right hand wheel arch - out of sight inside that panel), which then runs to a valve at the air tank. This allows me to fill the EAS tank with the ARB compressor if needed. I've also run a line from a T-piece at the tank to the engine bay for inflation, etc.

[TheTree]

I don't know if it's still here or not, but I've done this twice over my P38ing!

This time around I fitted an ARB compressor behind the rear seats, running through a secondary P38 Air Dryer (located under the parcel tray area above the right hand wheel arch

Mate

I know that the factory system does this, from PaulP38's site;

"When exhausting from the air springs, air passes back through the dryer in the opposite direction to flush out moisture through the exhaust port on the valve block."

So you may find your desiccant gets pretty wet if the air is only going one way !

Nice setup though, I'll copy a couple of those ideas ;)

Steve

[TheTree]

The regulator/filter I posted is the type I use for spray painting.

The factory drier is nothing fancy, it's just filled with decisant.

Yes the spray painting ones are an oil/moisture filter which still need to be flushed pretty often, i'm not sure how useful they would be under the bonnet.

As i posted a minute ago, the factory system does a reverse flush on it's dryer, which is a neat trick :)

Steve

[benji]

I recently did the same thing you're suggesting, though I ran a larger compressor in parallel to the eas one - when pumping up my tires it took a very long time even with the airtank full to begin with.

I've since gone back to using my portable compressor as it's a lot quicker.

I run a regulator set at 90psi for both lockers from a pipe connected to the airtank, though I've T piece in line 6 near the valve block for the manual over ride valves - in that regard I don't think it makes much difference.

[prelude]

I've teed in a regulator in line 6 for my lockers. I installed a regulator without dryer for now since there is an absolute minimal loss of air when operating the lockers, and how often does that happen... so I'm not too worried about that. For inflating tyres I did buy a regulator which does have a dryer included.

I am worried about the compressor itself though. It would probably take a whole lot of time to inflate the tyres with that tiny thing and running a second compressor would kinda defeat my purpose I think. Added weight and space and I want to stay within my GVM restraints where possible. Replacing the stock compressor with a different one (if need be in a different location) would be my next option. It should be possible to wire up and plumb in without to much trouble. I recon the valves should also be able to handle the increased flow. Are there any good alternative compressors on the market?

-P