'Berty' - 1960 Series 2

[Sam22]

G'day Ladies and Gents,

I am currently working on a 1960 Series 2 Serial Number 143000756, Body Number 3204.

Lotz-a-Landy's informs me that it should have Engine Number 151012896 however, on inspection I have found it has Engine Number 151005279. My understanding is that it is a 2L engine as a result of how the exhaust exits the engine bay (high and right), however would appreciate confirmation. (I note that a separate thread here identifies that the 2L engine stopped being used at the end of 1958?). I have attached a photo of the engine to assist.

Lotz-a-Landy's informs me that it entered the country on 4 May 1960 and went to the Cooma dealer P.D. Murphy. Also that it was a hard top although it is now a ute.

Any thoughts on the engine number discrepancy and engine size would be appreciated. Any additional information on the history of the vehicle would also be appreciated. Does anyone hold the records of the P.D. Murphy dealership?

Photos attached below (initial and current). Have since cleaned up, complete brakes, and am halfway through suspension.

Thanks,

Sam

[JDNSW]

Definitely 2.25l engine. Easy way to tell is both manifolds on the same side.

That is the early exhaust manifold (I don't think you can get them), but the later straight down one is interchangeable, although you will have to swap the engine pipe as well. The engine has probably been swapped at some time, possibly early in its life, especially if the initial owner was a fleet operator.

[Sam22]

G'day John,

Thanks for the confirmation. Appreciate it.

I will need to install a new exhaust as a component of the rebuild (current one is rusted out) and can re-run it through the original hole with the lower manifold. Whenever the exhaust or engine were swapped over they cut a new route for the higher exhaust exit pipe and will have to patch/replace that.

Still seems odd to me that the engine was swapped out for an 'older' engine (based on a lower serial number); but maybe your fleet explanation is on point, or maybe the vehicle went threw a rebuild at an earlier stage before it got to me.

Thanks again.

Sam

[Dgd69]

I have serial 143001010 ex ku ring Gai case trust vehicle its original engine long gone but have the original number I ended up finding a 59 series 2 engine and still has the swan neck manifold to exit thru the guardhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/673.jpg
The swan neck manifold for my 1960 series 2

[Sam22]

Another question to the wider audience.

What have people used for replacement Series 2 shocks? I just picked up my replacement Monroe Shocks to realise that despite repeated checks with Repco and Monroe that the rears are for the LWB and not the SWB. I will have to return the rears and find an alternative as it appears that Monroe don't even make an option for the SWB rear.

http://www.monroe.com.au/trade-corner/catalogue-search.html?cat_make=ROVER&cat_model=Landrover&cat_year=1960&search_type=make_model_year&form_used=sidebar

Was hoping to finish the suspension this weekend but will have to wait until I can get appropriate rear shocks now. More is the pity.

Thanks,

Sam

[JDNSW]

Any of the regular Landrover suppliers should be able to supply. Have a look in the forum section "recommended suppliers".

[harry]

Another question to the wider audience.

What have people used for replacement Series 2 shocks? I just picked up my replacement Monroe Shocks to realise that despite repeated checks with Repco and Monroe that the rears are for the LWB and not the SWB. I will have to return the rears and find an alternative as it appears that Monroe don't even make an option for the SWB rear.

http://www.monroe.com.au/trade-corner/catalogue-search.html?cat_make=ROVER&cat_model=Landrover&cat_year=1960&search_type=make_model_year&form_used=sidebar

Was hoping to finish the suspension this weekend but will have to wait until I can get appropriate rear shocks now. More is the pity.

Thanks,

Sam
I bought new rear shocks for my shorty from Repco, not sure,but I think they are Munro

[Sam22]

Right, so have managed to resolve (I think) the Munroe suspension issue.

Problem: The Monroe (Australia) 2016/2017 catalogue does not include a rear shock option for the Series 2 SWB only the LWB.

Solution: The Monroe (EU) 2016/2017 catalogue provides the following part numbers:
15-1445
D4044
EAN: 5412096455872
(I note that 15-1445 is also provided in the Series Generic parts information component of this site - I should have looked there before the initial order).
So my plan is to speak to Monroe and have them reverse engineer the EU part numbers to provide an equivalent Australian part number. Unfortunately, they are closed today, but will chase them up tomorrow. Will hopefully provide an updated part number post this for anyone coming after me and encountering the same issue.

Good news is, front parabolic leaf springs and shocks are installed; and I have managed to get the rear leaf springs off, just waiting on the new shocks to complete the job. Then it is time for a road test to find out the state of the engine (which I have had started and seems to run fine).

120460

[whitehillbilly64]

I went through this with my Series 3 SWB shocks.
Mate at Repco had three attempts to get the correct rears.
I have standard springs and hanger straps will be fitted, to limit down travel.
Front Munroe's, Gas Magnum 60, 160198.
Rear Munroe's Gas Magnum 60, 66828. Other number on shock, P271J2B. Pen written on both boxes, RB318G01
Not yet fitted, but fit the compressed and extended measurements of the original ones.

can take some pics next to original if needed.

whitehillbilly

[Sam22]

Thanks Whitehillbilly64. I have come across a slightly different solution. I spoke to Monroe this morning and based on the EU Monroe D4044 (Series II Rear Shock) they were able to replicate the same measurements with an (Australian) 16-0369 shock (which is normally used on the rear of a Holden Jackaroo). The only difficulty is that the upper ferrule has a sleeved bush. Solution is to purchase that shock with spare top bushes, Monroe part number SNP-002. A simple swap out is all that is then required of the top bushes only.

On a separate note, encountered some significant pricing discrepancy. Autobarn quoted $349 for the rear shocks as opposed to Repco at $431. The replacement top bushes cost $25. Fortunately, I was able to get Repco to price match. I only wish I had been aware of the price discrepancy before purchasing the front shocks!

Thanks again for the advice/part numbers. Will record how I get on when the parts come in.

Sam

[Sam22]

Hey Gents and Ladies,

I am after some assistance with another issue that I have come across. I am attempting to remove the rear suspension chassis bushes and not having much luck. Just getting the shackle bolts/nuts undone was a chore in itself, but now have encountered the difficult of attempting to remove the bushes and the bolt. I have tried the 'hit it' method which doesn't, at this stage, appear to be working.

Are there any tricks to this particular task, or do I just need to hit it harder?

No overwhelming concern about damaging the bolt or bushes in removal as the replacement parts are already ordered.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

Sam

120821120822

[OneOff]

I burnt the rubber out of mine with the gas torch. That just left the outer bush to deal with.
I very, very carefully cut a slot in the outers with the sabre saw and then got them out with a combination of big screwdriver and cold chisel.

good luck.

[AJF]

I saw a you tube video on this but haven't tried it myself. Link is Land Rover Series 3 - Changing Leaf Spring Bushes - YouTube (https://youtu.be/t0o7WZO-RNM)
called Land Rover series 3 - changing leaf spring brushes.

Regards
Angud

[gromit]

The leaf spring bushes are fairly easy, it's the chassis bushes that take the time.

I cut through the inner, rubber & outer casing with a hacksaw, you need to be careful not to cut into the chassis.....Next you need a 'puller' to insert the new bush.

Getting the Series 1 Ready for Cooma (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/46683-getting-series-1-ready-cooma.html)


Colin

[incisor]

nice to see plenty of traffic in the series ii area!

I am about to attempt to rebuild a 59 2.25 engine. the one in madge is getting tired so I am going to try and sort the spare motor.

I have a couple of upswept manifolds I bought for mine but never used as I went with extractors..

[Sam22]

G'day Gents and Ladies,

Thank you for the prompt advice on removing the rear chassis bushes. I am as reticent to burn out the rubber as you were Colin on your Series 1 when preparing for Cooma way back in 2007, however, I will resort to that option (based upon the weight of advice) if all other options prove ineffective. In Diana's comment on your post she mentions that "bobslandies has a set of punches or drifts for pushing out/in bushes". Does anyone know where I may purchase such an item? Or is it simply a home made solution. I note with regret that it seems bobslandies (Bob Shannon) passed away in November 2015 according to this post Bob Shannon - Bobslandies (http://remlr.com/forum/index.php'topic=3861.0).

Thanks again for all the prompt advice. I look forward to having a crack on the weekend.

My predicament is further compounded by the fact that the bolt also remains stuck in the bush and will need to be removed first. Has anyone else encountered this and was the solution just to hit it really, really hard?

Incisor: Best of luck with the engine rebuild for Madge. I noticed your comments about installing extractors and have started down that path of research now thanks to you.

Thanks for all your advice as always.

Sam

[OneOff]

I probably should have said, when I burnt them out I had the advantage of having a bare chassis to work on in the middle of the paddock; foul nasty acrid black smoke... I don't think I'd fancy getting under the vehicle to do it!!!

Good luck with it... take pictures for future mechanics.

Peter.

[Sam22]

G'day Peter,

Thanks for the clarification. Unfortunately I am in a garage in a residential neighbourhood. Burning may not be such a great option.

Will keep you (and others) updated on the progress.

Thanks,

Sam

[gromit]

My predicament is further compounded by the fact that the bolt also remains stuck in the bush and will need to be removed first. Has anyone else encountered this and was the solution just to hit it really, really hard?



Hit it hard and the rubber absorbs the impact so you probably won't have much luck.

Drill some holes through the rubber and then try and get a coarse hacksaw blade through, Fit it back in the frame and hack your way round the rubber until the centre sleeve & bolt can be knocked out.
Not sure if one of these would work 6pcs Woodworking Cutting Cutter Hole Saw Holesaw Wood Metal HSS Ti Drill Bit | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6pcs-Woodworking-Cutting-Cutter-Hole-Saw-Holesaw-Wood-Metal-HSS-Ti-Drill-Bit-/152010238117?hash=item23648428a5:g:TOMAAOSwdIFXynt W)


Regarding a 'punch' to drive the bushes out, you just need access to someone with a lathe. I have one here but have never used it.
It's really a two person job and whoever holds the punch needs to really trust the person with the hammer. A case of "when I nod my head you hit it......"


Colin

[JDNSW]

As Colin says - drill holes through the rubber. Done carefully you can remove enough rubber so that the centre tube complete with bolt will knock out. If it doesn't you should by then be able to get a thin saw blade through to saw through the rest.

[67hardtop]

Yup, drilling is a good idea. Thats what I did on my Betsy...https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/163.jpg
It worked well.

Cheers Rod

[Sam22]

G'day Gents and Ladies,

Thanks again for the advice. Will go with the drilling option and come back with photos and confirmation post the weekend.

Fingers crossed I can get the rear suspension sorted this weekend, because that is all that is standing between me and the first proper test drive. (I held off on test driving it before replacing the suspension as the leaf springs had collapsed to the point at which they were damaging the chassis).

Definitely looking forward to it.

Sam

[Sam22]

G'day Ladies and Gents,

I am writing to provide an update post the weekend's achievements and seek your assistance on determining whether I have accurately installed my rear suspension, in particular the rear shackles.

So, for any prospective or future adherent looking to remove the rear chassis bushes, strap in, because it is not an enjoyable task. Perhaps because I didn't complete it in the most effective manner, or perhaps simply because the outer metal rings of my rear chassis bushes were effectively bonded to the chassis. The photos attached will show the pain I went through over the course of two days to remove the seized shackles, including being forced to cut the original bolts off with an angle grinder as a result of the bonding that had occurred through rusting. Cutting the outer metal ring of the chassis with a hacksaw blade was effective, if painful, but the removal of them was not easy as mine had bonded to the chassis with rust. Various screwdrivers and a couple of cold chisels assisted, although I was conscious of avoiding any damage to the chassis which was not easy. A very fine file was required to tidy up the chassis and remove some remaining rust residue.

The second set of photos attached show the now installed parabolic springs and shocks. The shock (forgive the pun) that I received was how much lower the diffs now sit post this instillation compared to the original springs. What I am trying to work out is whether this is appropriate or whether I may have bolted the rear shackles on at the wrong angle. The reason for my surprise is that I was informed by the mechanic for Four Wheel Drives (Land Rover) in Melbourne that the parabolics should only increase the ride height by 25mm. It certainly seems a bigger increase than that based upon how low the diffs are now sitting. I was of the opinion that I may have attached the rear shackles incorrectly in that instead of being vertical they should be horizontal to the rear? This would certainly decrease the disparity in ride height, but I feel they would just drop back to vertical when I test drive the car on Saturday?

Hoping for a confirmation either way based upon the expertise and knowledge available in the forum.

Thanks for your time,

Sam

[Sam22]

And the shackles post removal
121168

[67hardtop]

Did u notice that the bolts in the rear shackle plates are threaded into the inner shackle plate. Most dont know that after removing the inner nut u then have to screw the shackle bolt out as well. I found this out the hard way but was lucky i noticed. Parabolic springs will settle after a while but should sit higher. Did u use original type bushes or poly bushes? If u used original bushes u should leave the shackle bolts loose until the vehicle is back on its wheels so the suspension settles down to road height then tighten the bolts and then on the rear shackle plates, the nuts with the vehicle on the ground so the bushes arent twisted or "loaded up". This doesnt need doing if u used poly bushes. Lube the poly bushes up lots. Or put lots of antisieze grease on the shackle bolts if u used original type bushes.

I hope it turns out good for you.

Cheers Rod

[Sam22]

G'day Ladies and Gents,

Rod: Thankfully I did notice that the rear shackle plate was threaded. Unfortunately it was the front shackle plate that had bonded to the bolt along with the inner sleeve from the rear chassis bush. I used poly bushes and the issue (of height) has now resolved itself. The rears have started to settle (once I got the wheels back on and the car back on the ground) and we have almost levelled out now from front to back. Just a matter of the rear shackles swinging a little rearwards (towards the horizontal).

Great news is that on Saturday I got the last remaining bushes for the rear shocks, bolted the wheels on and took 'Berty' for our very first test drive. We drove around our suburb and over a little 4wd track nearby. Needless to say it was bloody fantastic, not least because it seems that I probably won't need a full engine rebuild, but just a general tidy up.

Engine ran very well, no dramas at all, except for the standard LR oil leak. This is likely symptomatic of damage to the sump (large dent from a big rock I reckon) and subsequent damage to the seal/gasket between it and the main block. This will be replaced at a later stage when I have the engine out for a general tidy up.

Keeping in mind that this was my first time driving with a double clutch the changes did seem more 'grindy' then should be attributed to just my own personal inabilities. Whilst the gearbox itself seem to run smoothly enough, I think I may need to replace the clutch plates or something similar to tidy the changes up. Any thoughts or suggestions on the cause of the grinding (particularly prevalent changing into second) would be appreciated? I noted that in the higher gears it was possible to change without double clutching which again may be symptomatic of problems with the clutch?

Anyway, next step is to replace a bunch of panels and tidy the body up before removing and having painted in the original green (series 2, 1960). Any recommendations on a good panel beater / painter in the greater Canberra region (willing to drive to Sydney if need be) would be greatly appreciated. I am on a budget but am trying to get a decent finish.

Thanks again for all the advice from all and sundry.

Sam

[JDNSW]

1. Sump gasket. I hope you realise you can remove the sump with the engine in place? Not a big job either. But that may not be the source of the leak. A frequent leak, that ends up there, is the rocker cover gasket or the oil feed to the head at the back.


2. Clutch. Top two gears have synchromesh, which explains why less problems with these. If you can engage first or reverse when stopped without noise, there is nothing wrong with the clutch and the issue is your driving expertise. If it clashes engaging these when stopped and pausing a few seconds before engaging, the issue is almost certainly the clutch mechanism, not the clutch itself. It will be either the hydraulics, or one of the two cross pins that connect the tube between clutch release shaft and the slave cylinder bell crank, just outside the bell housing. If it is an early style slave cylinder setup, the pushrod is adjustable.

Hope this helps
.

[Sam22]

G'day John,

Thanks for the quick response mate. Definitely helps.

1. Regarding the sump gasket and sump replacement/repair, I figured it could be done without removing the engine, however, I need to replace engine mounts and paint the chassis, so will be taking the engine out briefly anyway. Whilst it is out I will do what needs to be done to tidy it up as it will be easier to access/work on. I reckon it is probably worth replacing all of the gaskets, leads and spark plugs.

2. Regarding the clutch, I will give changing gears at a standstill a crack when I have it started next. Hopefully it is my lack of double clutch experience.

Appreciate the advice.

Still seeking recommendations on panel beater / painter in the Greater Canberra area if anyone can help. Would have about a two - three month turn around on the job so maybe something that a professional could do on the side at a reduced cash rate?

Thanks,

Sam

[67hardtop]

Hi Sam,
First, congrats on the first "test drive". Getting used to the 1st and 2nd in the gbox will take only a little time and soon it'll become second nature. These boxes are a very strong and robust box.
Next, it will pay to check the clutch while u have the engine out. Its easier to pull the engine than the gbox. Others will tell u different, but if ur pulling the donk out anyway, check it. Might pay u to do the rear seal while u have the donk out too, if its leaking. Bugger of a job but if done properly it shouldnt leak. My 2.25 petrol motor never leaked a drop of oil, unbelievable as it may seem. I hope i can fix the diesel motor that im doing's oil leaks as well as the petrol motor was. Good luck with it. Spending a little now will save more later. I dont know why but ive got a really good feeling about ur build. These vehicles are great pieces of useable history. Enjoy it and all the pleasure driving it will give u.

Cheers Rod

[Sam22]

Hi Sam,
First, congrats on the first "test drive". Getting used to the 1st and 2nd in the gbox will take only a little time and soon it'll become second nature. These boxes are a very strong and robust box.
Next, it will pay to check the clutch while u have the engine out. Its easier to pull the engine than the gbox. Others will tell u different, but if ur pulling the donk out anyway, check it. Might pay u to do the rear seal while u have the donk out too, if its leaking. Bugger of a job but if done properly it shouldnt leak. My 2.25 petrol motor never leaked a drop of oil, unbelievable as it may seem. I hope i can fix the diesel motor that im doing's oil leaks as well as the petrol motor was. Good luck with it. Spending a little now will save more later. I dont know why but ive got a really good feeling about ur build. These vehicles are great pieces of useable history. Enjoy it and all the pleasure driving it will give u.

Cheers Rod

G'day Rod,

Firstly, thanks for the (perhaps misplaced) faith. I appreciate the compliment and your good vibes about the rebuild of 'Berty'. And thank you for the congratulations on the test drive. It was certainly nice to get the car out and drive a series for the first time ever.

I very much appreciate the advice on the rear seal. I am thinking that it will probably be worth the expense to replace all the seals and gaskets whilst I am in there. Just happy if I can avoid a full rebuild (which I think I should be able to based upon the test drive) although if I have to, now, whilst the 'donk' is out, will be the best opportunity.

Good luck with the seals on your diesel motor. If you have done it once (or more) I am sure it will be easier this time!

You wouldn't believe it but I just caught an Australian Story episode on the ABC about the Leyland brothers and their Land Rovers. Now that is some useable history! Great cars, although as my wife says, 'I am probably becoming a little bit obsessed'.

Thanks again mate.

Sam

And to the wider community, I am still hoping for a sneaky recommendation on a cheap, professional, painter / panel beater in the greater Canberra area who will do an excellent job but not charge me an arm and a leg. Asking a lot right?

[Sam22]

G'day Ladies and Gents,

Just a quick question. What are the dimensions of the standard under door sills for a 1960 Series 2 SWB (88")?

Paddock Spares advertise a 5inch option and a 7cm option.

Question is two fold I guess. Which looks best and which is the original? Can anyone post a picture of their sills with a clear measurement of height? A comparison of both options would be fantastic.

Thanks for your time,

Sam

[gromit]

G'day Ladies and Gents,

Just a quick question. What are the dimensions of the standard under door sills for a 1960 Series 2 SWB (88")?

Paddock Spares advertise a 5inch option and a 7cm option.

Question is two fold I guess. Which looks best and which is the original? Can anyone post a picture of their sills with a clear measurement of height? A comparison of both options would be fantastic.

Thanks for your time,

Sam


1960 would originally be 5" sills.

If you look at pictures of Series II's vs. series III's you'll see the difference.


Colin

[Sam22]

Thanks Colin.

Appreciate the quick response. Now to order the parts.

Sam

[chazza]

Hi Sam,
They are easy to make; all that is needed is some basic hand tools.

If you are interested let me know and I can start a post on how to do it,

Cheers Charlie

[67hardtop]

Hi Sam,
They are easy to make; all that is needed is some basic hand tools.

If you are interested let me know and I can start a post on how to do it,

Cheers Charlie
Do it......do it......

PLZ

Cheers Rod

[Sam22]

G'day Charlie,

A 'how to post on bespoke hand made sills' would be great! I suspect you could probably sell them and make a profit on this side of the world too. A market for these things seems to be created by the fact that they are the first thing to get damaged when 4wding or completing farm work. A LR with straight sills seems to be a rare find.

I have noticed that a lot of the UK guys that are rebuilding theirs for off road work will replace the sills with hand made (or purchased) slider rails. Not the look I am after but an interesting option none-the-less.

Thanks in advance.

Sam

[Sam22]

G'day All,

Need some advice.

I have made some progress on 'Berty' and have recently removed all of the existing glass in order to replace the seals and get the glass polished. The glass is not chipped (thankfully) but does have a number of scratches consistent with 57 years of hard work and farm time. I had assumed that a glass place (car or building) would be able to polish the glass but this turns out to not be the case.

Have any of you had experience in getting the glass polished and if so how have you achieved it?

Any recommendations for automotive glass polishing in Canberra or Sydney?

Thanks,

Sam

[gromit]

G'day All,

Need some advice.

I have made some progress on 'Berty' and have recently removed all of the existing glass in order to replace the seals and get the glass polished. The glass is not chipped (thankfully) but does have a number of scratches consistent with 57 years of hard work and farm time. I had assumed that a glass place (car or building) would be able to polish the glass but this turns out to not be the case.

Have any of you had experience in getting the glass polished and if so how have you achieved it?

Any recommendations for automotive glass polishing in Canberra or Sydney?

Thanks,

Sam

I would have thought that to 'polish out' a scratch you'd have to remove glass down to the depth of the scratch. If you do this locally, around the scratch you'll get a wavy pane of glass but it seems that there are companies that do the job Melbourne Glass Scratch Removal (http://www.melbourneglassscratchremoval.com.au/?gclid=CLm1hYH56dMCFR0KKgodjskNfg)

My solution has been to buy a parts car, then another until I finally get numerous sheets of glass and can pick out the best. Problem is you need time & the space to store them !

You could get new pieces cut locally by a glass company that is able to cut flat laminated sheets and apply the automotive marking. Shipping from the UK is also an option e.g. MTC5304 | Door Top Glass - fixed piece - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/mtc5304-door-top-glass-fixed-piece.html)
I've had windscreens shipped from the UK without issues.




Colin

[jerryd]

I paid $110 for two new windsceen pieces of glass, they even made sure the stamp was in the same spot on both pieces of glass. [smilebigeye]

Worth every cent to look through a crystal clear windscreen

[JDNSW]

You should note that the windscreen in 1960, if original, will be toughened glass, not laminated. In fact, I don't think laminated glass was fitted until some time during Series 3 production.

Laminated glass has been a requirement in new cars since the 1980s, but prior to that toughened glass was the norm, although some cars had laminated glass earlier.

The advantage of laminated glass is that it will not shatter all over when impacted by a stone, unlike toughened glass, which will. The disadvantage of laminated glass is that it will crack from impacts that would not damage toughened glass, and also has a softer surface, which will scratch more easily.

Toughened glass, because it has the surface under stress should not have scratches polished out except for the most superficial ones.

Toughened glass is easily identified by looking at it through polarising sunglasses, where a mottled pattern will be apparent. Some windscreens will have a modified zone in front of the driver that stops the spread of shattering so you don't lose all vision, and you can see this in polarised light.

Laminated glass is, of course, immediately identifiable once the glass is removed from the frame, by looking at the edge.

All windscreens should be marked in a corner, but this may not be the case for early ones, and the marking may not be particularly helpful.

(I remember when I was at uni (1961), our lecturer had to drive from Broken Hill to Sydney in the faculty's almost brand new Landrover, with no glass in the driver's side windscreen because it had copped a rock.)

[Sam22]

G'day Gents,

Thanks for the replies. Am working through the options of either:

a. Replacing all glass with laminated glass from a local supplier.
b. Importing glass from Paddocks or Craddocks.
c. Getting the (minor) scratches polished and hoping for the best result.

Determining factor will be whatever is the cheapest solution.

On a separate question, is there a requirement under NSW RTA legislation to have an indicator on the front wing panels or can one get away with the original clear lensed light only? Are seatbelts mandatory as well or like the UK because the vehicle (1960) was prior to seatbelts are they not required to be fitted?

Thanks,

Sam

[JDNSW]

Turn indicators, since they were not fitted when new, need to be approved types of light, and orange. The white lenses will not be acceptable, even if they could be set up to show orange - they are not sufficiently visible from the side. However, they do not need to be on the front panel, they could be on brackets bolted to the bumper, perhaps a piece of angle, so that they are above and behind the bumper. Should be able to find approved motor cycle lights, for example. I have seen this sort of thing on a few vintage and veteran cars - they can be removed for display. A similar setup could be used at the back, mounted on the tub securing bolts rather than making holes in the tub.