View Full Version : RRS air suspension warning light
duderduderini
14th March 2017, 08:09 PM
Hi 
Sorry to cross post this but am stuck in Adelaide miles from Home (Albury) and given the vehicles are mechanically similar I thought I might get some advice from this section in case.
Hi 
I bought the RRS last thursday in Melbourne then drove it back to  Albury Friday with no probs. It is a 2006 2.7 Diesel. My wifes dad  passed away unexpectedly so we were off to Adelaide the next day. I  debated whether to take the old car but took the Rangie untested. Things  went well till Pinnaroo where I couldnt unlock the car with the fob  (either of them) even though I could here the door lock solenoids  working. After a 5 minute anxious battle they unlocked and off we went.
2  days ago after the first morning start up the orange suspenseion light  came on for about a minute then went out. Didnt do it again until today  on first startup where it cycled through test no probs then a few  minutes down the road it came up red with the dont exceed 30 mph  warning. It went out after 30 seconds or so never to appear again today.
2  things i checked today were the battery which looks newish with no date  markings on it.. genbuine LR and I took the cover off the air  compressor expecting to find a Hitachi compressor but found a very clean  looking AKM instead.
My worry is getting beached on the way back to albury which is around 900 k's away.
I  have taken out the relay and reseated it. Removed the relevant fuses,  checked .them and replaced them in case oxidation may have been the  culprit.
Does anyone have any advice as to what to do right now till I get home?
Lovely Machine incidentally, quite a relaxed drive.
Thanks
Nick
Oztourer
14th March 2017, 09:47 PM
Get battery tested or replace on spec. as a failing battery throws up all kinds of random faults.
Check EAS level sensors. I had a faulty one once that caused the compressor to keep running and overheat. My faulty sensor showed up as a flashing red bar on the 4x4 info screen ( not sure if the RRS has that screen though).
Also check fault codes if you can. Use the directory to find someone in your area if you don't have one.
Good luck!!
Matt
LandyAndy
14th March 2017, 10:16 PM
It could also be the alternator,get it tested at the same time.
GOODLUCK
Andrew
Grentarc
15th March 2017, 06:56 AM
Have a look here to see if someone in Adelaide with an IID Tool can read your codes for you, might help diagnose your issue
Members with Diagnostic Equipment map (updated 1/2015) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/213489-members-diagnostic-equipment-map-updated-1-2015-a.html)
Graeme
15th March 2017, 11:35 AM
He now knows the cause - a lowering corner.
duderduderini
15th March 2017, 06:49 PM
Hey Guys
Graemes suggestion on removing the fuse in the engine compartment and the 5A one in the passenger compartment worked a treat.
The rrs has done well today. I reckon Ill make it back to Albury the deal with it.
I know graeme is a fan of the gap diagnostics but I was looking at the 4d Can tool.. DOes anyone have experience with them?
Thanks for all your help Gents, especially to Graeme
LRD414
15th March 2017, 08:27 PM
I don't know that 4Dcan tool personally but do have a Gap iiD BT as mentioned by Graeme and I know at least 4 other D4 owners with one.
I'd be almost certain the iiD is more user friendly, no PC needed just your phone.
The iiD also appears to have more functionality for calibration and reset routines.
Cheers,
Scott
DiscoJeffster
15th March 2017, 08:34 PM
IiD is the unquestionable king
duderduderini
15th March 2017, 08:45 PM
The Iid it is
Thanks again
Nick
duderduderini
16th March 2017, 10:28 PM
I raised the rig today as high as she'd go and could only see maybe 30 to 40mm of rubber protruding past the metal can (that says delphi or delfi incidentally). I cant say i achieved anything meaningful so i figure i didnt do something right.
Can anyone advise on a protocol for the soapy water trick and the air bladder
Thanks
letherm
16th March 2017, 10:53 PM
I raised the rig today as high as she'd go and could only see maybe 30 to 40mm of rubber protruding past the metal can (that says delphi or delfi incidentally). I cant say i achieved anything meaningful so i figure i didnt do something right.
Can anyone advise on a protocol for the soapy water trick and the air bladder
Thanks
Soapy water sprayed or splashed on will show where a leak is as you can see the air coming out through the foam etc.  I usually just grab the foam off the top of the soapy water and apply it by hand. It's an old trick to test for gas leaks.  For example if you connect a new gas bottle to a barbecue you can do this to make sure no gas is escaping.  You'll see a leak fairly easily.  I first saw this when a gas installer was changing a meter more than 50 years ago.
Martin
duderduderini
17th March 2017, 07:24 AM
Hi Martin
I found that i could only see about 30 mm of the bladder at the base. I found the metal shroud covered most of it. I had raised the suspension but I figure I should be able to see more of the bladder so Ill actually read the destructions on how to raise the vehicle.
Nick
letherm
17th March 2017, 04:16 PM
Hi Martin
I found that i could only see about 30 mm of the bladder at the base. I found the metal shroud covered most of it. I had raised the suspension but I figure I should be able to see more of the bladder so Ill actually read the destructions on how to raise the vehicle.
Nick
Hi Nick.
I know that the D4 can be put into extended height mode by going to off road height and putting the jack in place, just against the chassis rail and then lowering the car.  It thinks it has bottomed out and goes into extended height mode.  At least I think that's the way it's done. Not sure whether the RRS does the same but I would think it would. That may expose more of the bladder for you to look at.  That's about the extent of my knowledge sorry.  Just knew about the soapy water trick.
Martin
duderduderini
21st March 2017, 10:38 AM
Hey guys
I left the rangie at home for a few days till i sort out the brake pad thing. I happened to notice both fronts had dropped not just passenger side as I initially thought. This would lead to the high likelihood of the front valve block assembly.
Fuses were out according to Graeme's advice so I know it didnt self level overnight.. the rears havent moved at all and are know a good 3 inches higher than the front.
Will update once i install the new valve block
Nick
Graeme
22nd March 2017, 04:02 PM
Perhaps both sides are leaking!
Fatso
22nd March 2017, 04:17 PM
Same happened to mine a while back , new valve block fixed problem .
duderduderini
23rd March 2017, 07:19 PM
Perhaps both sides are leaking!
Ill change the block first then I will do the struts if necessary
I  must thank you Graeme, your advice got me home with no problems. Its a handy trick to know if you need to get somewhere.
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