Optima yellow top as starter battery??

[Ean Austral]

Has anyone used 1 of these as a starter battery ? I think I recall see someone fitted 1 but think they had to make up some new leads as the terminals were the wrong way around.


Thanks and Cheers Ean

[DiscoMick]

Aren't they a bit small to be a starter? More of a deep cycle. A diesel needs a large battery to kick it over.

[Ean Austral]

Looking at it today its almost the same CCA as my starter battery on my D3. Maybe its the Red or Blue top they use instead of the yellow top. I guess it would get back to full charge pretty quick :)


Cheers Ean

[strangy]

I was using a very tired (hot toasty in the D2 engine bay) 6yr old optima yellow top as my starter battery while my 130 build was happening.
Never an issue to start including numerous purge cycles from less than full charge.
That battery is now in service as a start battery in my sons car.

[Tins]

Has anyone used 1 of these as a starter battery ? I think I recall see someone fitted 1 but think they had to make up some new leads as the terminals were the wrong way around.


Thanks and Cheers Ean

I had a Yellow top as the starter in my D2. I got it to use as the second battery, by the starter battery died. I hooked it up and it worked flawlessly for 12 months, until the auto died. It is now doing service as the second Battery in my D1, and has done for two years. It went completely flat for some time when the isolator in the car failed, but has recovered and is again working well. I think it is a D35, but that's only from memory.

As for the leads, well Yellow Tops are available with posts around either way. I had no trouble with fitment in my D2. I cannot comment with any authority whether the Yellow Top is ideal as a crank battery. However, my TD5 is a quick starter, and the Optima never had any difficulty, no matter how many times I started it a day, nor how many accessories I used in the meantime. I would have no hesitation using it again as a crank battery, but when the D2 is back with me I will probably get a Red Top or something else as a crank.

[Vern]

Aren't they a bit small to be a starter? More of a deep cycle. A diesel needs a large battery to kick it over.
They start my 4bd1 no worries at all!


Red top is crank battery
Yellow is a more a hybrid of crank/deep cycle.
Both start my car fine

[RobA]

Would not recommend using a yellow top as bit low on CCA even though it has deep cycle/starting on it. There are better batteries around for cranking

Rob

[Vern]

Would not recommend using a yellow top as bit low on CCA even though it has deep cycle/starting on it. There are better batteries around for cranking

Rob
Why? They are 750cca!

[Aussie Jeepster]

I had a yellow top as a starter in my j**p wrangler and my perentie. Both diesels and no problems in either. Currently looking at a yellow top for my v6 petrol D3

[DiscoMick]

Yellowtops come in a range of sizes so it would be important to check the size required.
404 (http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/optima/optima-yellowtop)™

[Tins]

Why? They are 750cca!

As are very many retail cranking batteries.

[DiscoMick]

I don't know about Discoverys, but I think this Varta (or the size below, from memory) is recommended starting battery for a Defender. How does your Optima compare?
http://battery-power.com.au/product/l1/

[rangieman]

I run two Yellow tops in my Td5 D2 and have done for 3 years now .
Never a problem , Before the D2 i did the same in my Tdi D1 [thumbsupbig]
This is the D2 [wink11]

[Tins]

I don't know about Discoverys, but I think this Varta (or the size below, from memory) is recommended starting battery for a Defender. How does your Optima compare?
http://battery-power.com.au/product/l1/

Fair enough, Mick, but the OP asked "Has anyone used 1 of these as a starter battery ?" He didn't ask for the perfect battery. Well, the answer to his question is 'yes'. I'm well aware the Yellow Top is not the perfect battery. However, 750 CCA is quite adequate for starting a TDV6.

The car involved is a D3. Would that Varta fit in a D3?

[Tins]

I run two Yellow tops in my Td5 D2 and have done for 3 years now .
Never a problem , Before the D2 i did the same in my Tdi D1 [thumbsupbig]
This is the D2 [wink11]

Looks like one of Carl's battery boxes? That's what mine has, although the original plan was to have one Yellow, one Red.

[rangieman]

Looks like one of Carl's battery boxes? That's what mine has, although the original plan was to have one Yellow, one Red.
Not saying [tonguewink] Mine is made from stainless which is so much better[bigwhistle]

[workingonit]

I use the yellow tops for the D1 Tdi300, the 4bd1, and tractor.

[Tins]

Not saying [tonguewink] Mine is made from stainless which is so much better[bigwhistle]


Hmm....

[DiscoMick]

Fair enough, Mick, but the OP asked "Has anyone used 1 of these as a starter battery ?" He didn't ask for the perfect battery. Well, the answer to his question is 'yes'. I'm well aware the Yellow Top is not the perfect battery. However, 750 CCA is quite adequate for starting a TDV6.

The car involved is a D3. Would that Varta fit in a D3?
Not sure. They come various sizes, as do Yellowtops.
My guess is a Yellowtop could be used for both starting and as a second battery, but the needs are different and 750 CC is a lot less than 850 or 920, so as a compromise it might be less effective and more expensive than having a dedicated starting battery and a specialised deep cycle AGM as a second battery. Anyway, give it a go, I say.

[Ean Austral]

The start battery in my D3 is 800 CCA and have not had any issues , the dual battery is 750 CCA optima yellow top. I remember seeing a thread on here a few years back where I am sure someone fitted a yellow top as a starter battery and also 1 as a auxillary battery as well.


just wondered if it was a common choice or not.

Cheers Ean

[Vern]

Ask Drivesafe, he recommends the yellowtops.
You can also get them in 900cca

[Eevo]

yellow top. the only battery i use

[Reads90]

Have a yellow top as a Starter in my 300tdi 90 for the last 14 years. The same one and works great

Cheers
Ali

[Aussie Jeepster]

I'm looking at a D31A for my D3 - always had good luck with yellow tops. Anyone have any other recommendations?

[LRD414]

Anyone have any other recommendations?
Replacement battery for a D4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/249049-replacement-battery-d4.html)

[rrturboD]

(Vested interest flag ... I sell batteries!) ...

Optima D34 will happily operate as a starting battery. The CCA rating is conservative, and we have found that the battery technology delivers the CCA for longer each start, so a smaller capacity battery will often out perform conventional batteries. Eg Cat D6 Dozer 24v, uses 2x N150 batteries (@1000CCA) (one each side of the driver), 2xOptima D34 (@750CCA) (mounted in 1 box, freeing other for tools) have been starting/running dozer for 6 years now.
I recommend users who have D34 as secondary battery, and panic when out the back of beyond etc their starting battery fails (usually the original Varta in their D3 or D4) , to rewire the isolator to use the D34 as starter ... they have always got home, and sometimes taken few months to replace the original starter.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Replacement battery for a D4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/249049-replacement-battery-d4.html)

Thanks - I've been following that thread. Was hoping to see someone going for a yellow top.
I've got a good battery specialist that I pass on the way to work, and he sells Optima, so I might drop in and see him.

[Russrobe]

Supercharge GOLD PLUS MF88H, cars (http://www.supercharge.com.au/supercharge-gold-plus-mf88h.html)

This is the one that was in mine when i bought it and it seems to be going ok.

Have spent the last two days washing the car inside out though with radio on and its now dead.... Hopefully reviveable. Forgot the dash will go spastic when battery is dead... Was thinking wth is going on here...https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/434.jpg

Would swap it out for a Optima tomorrow though if possible...

[LRD414]

.... when out the back of beyond etc their starting battery fails (usually the original Varta in their D3 or D4) , to rewire the isolator to use the D34 as starter
When you say rewire Michael, does this just mean connect the two positive leads together and disconnect the isolator (SC80 in my case)?

I've been meaning to make up a positive lead for that purpose for ages.

Scott

[Tins]

When you say rewire Michael, does this just mean connect the two positive leads together and disconnect the isolator (SC80 in my case)?

I've been meaning to make up a positive lead for that purpose for ages.

Scott

My D1 has a driver operated solenoid switch that hooks the two batteries together. This I believe was to aid winching, but it's a godsend when the crank batt goes flat. Flick the switch and away we go.

[Russrobe]

The USI 160 does this... Not sure about the SC80. I think thats the main difference between the two..

[LRD414]

The USI 160 does this... Not sure about the SC80. I think thats the main difference between the two..

I don't really need the functionality via switch but it would be handy to easily rig up the yellowtop as a starter in case of the starter failing in a remote place. My understand is a large lead joining the two positives terminals together would do it. But not sure what has to be done with the SC80 in that situation. I wouldn't take an old'ish starter if going remote anyway so not interested in installing a relay/switch etc for such a rare need.

Scott

[Tins]

I don't really need the functionality via switch but it would be handy to easily rig up the yellowtop as a starter in case of the starter failing in a remote place. My understand is a large lead joining the two positives terminals together would do it. But not sure what has to be done with the SC80 in that situation. I wouldn't take an old'ish starter if going remote anyway so not interested in installing a relay/switch etc for such a rare need.

Scott

Fair enough. When I spoke to Tim ( Drivesafe ) when buying my SC80 I'm pretty sure he said it wouldn't be a problem. If it wasn't Tim then it was someone on here who had done it.

[rrturboD]

When you say rewire Michael, does this just mean connect the two positive leads together and disconnect the isolator (SC80 in my case)?

I've been meaning to make up a positive lead for that purpose for ages.

Scott

Scott,
if the starting battery is dead, no good paralleling with secondary battery as sum will not start car, jumper lead between positive terminals (or separate lead), and then remove neg lead from starting battery, so it is no longer active. Vehicle is then running from secondary battery only.
or on isolators with high load leads, just bolt them together onto the one post, and still disconnect negative terminal etc

[drivesafe]

Unfortunately it is a case of the specific situation that will govern how you jump start any vehicle.


If the cranking battery is simply flat, then as long as the Optima is around 12.0v or higher, with an SC80 fitted, a single jumper lead, connecting positive ( + ) to positive ( + ) will normally allow you to start the motor.


Once the motor is up and running, you can remove the lead and the alternator will do it’s job.


If the cranking battery has dropped a cell and is showing 10.5v or less, then you need to disconnect the negative ( - ) terminal as Michael posted above, to allow the Optima to be able to start the motor.


In this type of situation, your must PERMANENTLY fix the cable between the two battery positives ( + ). If the lead between the two battery positives ( + ) comes loose, once the motor is running, and the negative ( - ) lead is not connected to the cranking battery’s negative ( - ) terminal, you can damage major electronic components in your vehicle


I have carried out testing of starting vehicles with low cranking battery voltages. My L322 TDV8 can be started with a cranking battery voltage as low as 11.5v, but I could not turn the motor over with the same battery at 11.3v.


In this test, I simply used a set of jumper lead off an Optima sitting beside the L322.


With an L322, as the auxiliary battery is in the rear, the battery has to be removed to be able to jump start. Whereas with both my D3 or D4, with the two batteries being close to one another in the engine bay, a single jumper lead worked when ever I carried out this test.

[Ean Austral]

(Vested interest flag ... I sell batteries!) ...

Optima D34 will happily operate as a starting battery. The CCA rating is conservative, and we have found that the battery technology delivers the CCA for longer each start, so a smaller capacity battery will often out perform conventional batteries. Eg Cat D6 Dozer 24v, uses 2x N150 batteries (@1000CCA) (one each side of the driver), 2xOptima D34 (@750CCA) (mounted in 1 box, freeing other for tools) have been starting/running dozer for 6 years now.
I recommend users who have D34 as secondary battery, and panic when out the back of beyond etc their starting battery fails (usually the original Varta in their D3 or D4) , to rewire the isolator to use the D34 as starter ... they have always got home, and sometimes taken few months to replace the original starter.

That's very interesting, did you only try the yellow top ? or did you try the red top or blue top as well ?

I cant see why it wouldn't be a better option to have a dual purpose type battery as a main start in a car with as much electrics as a D3/D4. My start battery is only 9 months old as it was replaced under warranty , but in the temperature conditions up here , I don't expect anymore than 2 years out of a start battery. My Ford Ranger work ute is like clock work with start batteries , every 24 month service it has had a new battery , consistent over 6 yrs now.

Cheers Ean

[Tins]

Scott,
if the starting battery is dead, no good paralleling with secondary battery as sum will not start car, jumper lead between positive terminals (or separate lead), and then remove neg lead from starting battery, so it is no longer active. Vehicle is then running from secondary battery only.
or on isolators with high load leads, just bolt them together onto the one post, and still disconnect negative terminal etc

Not quite. I have had the crank battery so low the lights on the dash are all but invisible, and the car starts instantly as soon as I flick the switch, although, as Tim says, not with a dead cell. Mine was going flat due to a current draw with the key al the way off.

It should be remembered though, tha car I speak of is a 300TDi D1. Not a whole lot of electronic gee whiz in one of those.