TDV8 engine issue possibly

[Nomad9]

Hi There,

Out on a trip in WA, was driving normally then noticed things not quite feeling right. Carried on driving fuel consumption went up marginally and has continued to do so, was around 11.8 now at 12.7 and yes I am towing. Following morning noticed some sooty deposits on the back hatch, more so on the drivers side than the passengers. Checked the pipes the drivers side is definitely more sooty than the other side. I have checked the intercooler pipes to the inlet manifold both are fine not split.
I have now done another 1000 Kim's heading home in Perth. The vehicle seems to be running fine just not as good as usual. No engine lights.

Taking things very easily no heavy foot work things seem to be steady as she goes at the moment.

Any ideas?

Cheers Marty

[BigJon]

Have you taken the engine cover off and checked the rubber hoses on the inlet manifold? My Vogue split one of the right angle ones at about 110 000km. If it does have a split turbo pipe don't keep driving. It will kill a turbo and possibly the engine.

[101RRS]

While there may be an issue - what is most likely is you are seeing is the effects of towing (though could be an EGR though as this can cause symptoms you have).

Having owned my RRS 2.7 for 7 years now I know it soon lets me know with either a dash light indication, a dash message or an annoying gong if anything is actually wrong - so if you have none of these then most likely all is OK. If you had an EGR issue I would expect an orange Engine Management Light on the dash.

As a precaution I would get the codes read - ignore the crappy little things like communication errors and look for anything major in the engine codes like EGR codes.

Good luck

Garry

[BigJon]

TDV8s will keep going with a split hose and lots of exhaust smoke. Until the turbo on the side with the split hose overspeeds and fails, sending bits through the engine.

[Nomad9]

Hi gents, thank you for your responses, I was of the same mind in regard to messages gongs and lights, none of which I have seen or heard yet. I am not seeing excessive smoke either which I see as a good sign. I don't have my code reader with me it was a conscious decision I just wanted to have faith. So far this has not let me down. Your responses align with roughly where I am so I'm not missing anything really obvious. The more I start checking the more concerned my wife becomes so I just check normal things like oil and water and we are all fine. Any more developments I'll seek further advice cheers Marty

[biggin]

I had similar symptoms recently, although in a totally different motor. Turned out to be faulty O2 sensor, causing it to run rich on one side.

[Nomad9]

Oh don,t I wish that is the only problem. I thought faulty O2 sensors showed an orange engine light. I have checked the two large diameter short 90 degree elbows they seem fine. Can you do the EGR's on a TDV8 without lifting the bodywork off? I did one on a TDV6 which was a challenge but possible. Cheers Marty

[BigJon]

Hi gents, thank you for your responses, I was of the same mind in regard to messages gongs and lights, none of which I have seen or heard yet. I am not seeing excessive smoke either which I see as a good sign. I don't have my code reader with me it was a conscious decision I just wanted to have faith. So far this has not let me down. Your responses align with roughly where I am so I'm not missing anything really obvious. The more I start checking the more concerned my wife becomes so I just check normal things like oil and water and we are all fine. Any more developments I'll seek further advice cheers Marty

Did you pop the top cover off the engine and have a look at the other hoses?

[rar110]

My tdv8 seems to be running cleaner after MAPs clean.
So many possibles:
• bottom intercooler hose;
• EGR stuck open or fractured valve;
• stuck turbo actuator;
• cracked intake manifold;
• turbo seal on one side;
• CCV filter not filtering.

[BigJon]

There are also short straight hoses at the rear of the intake manifold.

I haven't looked under the bonnet of a Sport with TDV8 any time recently, but after replacing my thermostat a month ago I am confident I could do my EGR valves in about 3.5 hours. Obviously no body off in an L322.

[Nomad9]

I did pop off the engine cover and had a general look around, couldn't see any thing obviously split or broken. Thanks for the list rar110, not a lot more I can check in Newman caravan Park. Just hope that everything hangs in there. Cheers Marty

[Nomad9]

By the way, bottom intercooler hose could be a suspect, alternator replaced last year........hummmmm!!!!

[rar110]

You really need to take the intercooler hose off to check properly. I've read a few times people saying the hose looked ok only to take it off and find a split.

[Nomad9]

I know, I know I should be taking things apart however I have my wife with me and how do you reckon she would feel if I started ripping the engine apart huh? [emoji15]closely followed by a [emoji849]

[rar110]

Only two screw clamps. The top hoses are very accessible. If split it can easily be temporarily fixed with rescue tape.

[Nomad9]

Yea I had another look after your last message, I'll get them off tomorrow and have a quick look. The bad side as a minimum. It looks like the engines good side has been replaced, so definitely worth a look. Thank you.
Cheers Marty

[Nomad9]

Hi rar110, took your advice and removed the top hoses plus I removed the intercooler hoses again and had another look at them, all appeared ok. Went out for sightseeing tours this afternoon things seemed ok. No black smoke was clearly evident. Continuing on the way home tomorrow taking it easy.

By the way those little 90 degree hoses were a lot easier to get off than put back on again.......

Cheers Marty

[rar110]

Well done.

Next easiest stop is the MAP sensors. Real easy to check and clean. But you need a 15 torx screw driver from memory, and a can of the cheapest contact cleaner you can find.

[Nomad9]

Hi rar110, done another 700 Kim's today heading closer to home. I'll see if I can find any contact cleaner where I am tomorrow. I only have about 900 Kim's to go to home now so I'm feeling a lot better right now. Thank you very much for the assistance and suggestions. I should be home by the weekend and I can plug my BB MSV 2 in and see if that has any bright ideas. I'll let you know what it eventually turns out to be.

Cheers Marty

[Nomad9]

Hi there,
OK, I have now returned home safely. The vehicle ran just fine on the way home yesterday all day, I reset the l/100 at Geraldton and got back to home 45 minutes South of Perth, got 13.9, yes I was towing, a small but heavy (ish) camper trailer, prior to leaving I was on about 10.6 to 10.7.

I have attached three files I hope, two were non tested and tested with just the ignition on no resets done, the third test was done with the engine running AFTER I had done a reset, there were no faults on the tested screen so I couldn't see any point attaching that one, the other screen is the non-tested after a rest and the engine running, shows 14 faults I think, not sure how relevant that is. Do I actually have to perform these functions to get them "tested", I am assuming so.

See what you think, any comments welcomed and thank you for the assistance whilst out on the road. I'm not sure if this is relevant, I only use this Range Rover for traveling so doesn't get much use at all really, a lot less than both my wife and I would like. Only done this trip and another relatively short one in the last twelve months. Done about 5000 klms in the last twelve months and that is on the high side.

Have I got a fault or was this just an intermittent fault that corrected itself, something I find hard to believe, however I suppose anything is possible

Now got to get the engine ECU out and send this to TRS for a remap, this is behine the battery isn't it, if not where is it?

Cheers Marty

[rar110]

Possibly battery. Maybe get it load tested.

How does 4.4 v8 compare to the 3.6 tdv8?

[Nomad9]

Being normally aspirated it is a lot less complex and more room under the engine bay. The 4.4 goes very well however likes a drink when towing, 3.6 is a lot more economical. In this particular case I got the 4.4 as a real IKEA moment at nearly half the pride I paid for the 3.6. Plus personally I love the Rimini red. The 05 4.4 has a couple more electrical gremlins which one day I will find and fix. The 3.6 up u til the alternator cramped itself last year had been faultless it was a one owner from new and was set up for touring more than the 4.4.
I like them both for what they are, I wouldn't go near a 2.7 again I had more dramas with that than I have had with both the 4.4 and the 3.6 combined. After last year when we had to get the 3.6 trailered home from Denham I was seriously going to sell up and just keep the 4.4, and then this year I thought we were off again, thankfully everything seems to have turned out ok.

I am presently spraying my Goodyear MTR's with tyre Wal black and trying to get the red dust out of all the nooks and crannies, everything doesn't seem that bad any more.

I camped next to a guy in Newman who was driving quite a new Prado, he had just waited a month for a new engine to be delivered and fitted in Alice Springs. He had just found out they had munted his transmission pan fitting the engine. I would I suspect gone Toyota however doesn't matter what you buy you still could just have problems especially with today's complex electrical computerised systems.
You asked it is a bit long but this is where I am at.

Cheers Marty

[rar110]

Thanks good to know.