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View Full Version : error P062B-00 (2F), now P006A-00 (27)



wombathole
6th August 2017, 09:53 PM
Hi Aulro,
I'm travelling through NT and QLD, currently in Darwin. Been having a string of error codes on the D4. Help would be greatly appreciated.

Between Uluru and Alice Springs i had both the Alternator die and the plastic coolant junction on the top of the motor crack. Towed to town, replaced both at Sutton Motors. Been watching voltage, current and engine temps constantly on the GAP IIDTOOL since. Numbers are fine i think (between 13 and 14.x volts when engine on, up to 25 amps draw, engine coolant temps around 100 C when doing 100kph. When pulling hard at 124kph with camper trailer connected, temp is 106 to 107 degrees.)

Symptom 1: between Tennant Creek and Katherine i found that cruise control was not holding speed in 6th. Set to 124kph with camper trailer behind me, would start to drop speed. If i manually dropped it back to 5th, it would hold speed. Decided to stop pushing hard, so dropped speed to 118 and cruise held in 6th.

Symptom 2: After a few days visiting Katherine's sights without camper connected and having no issues, filled up, connected camper and started toward Litchfield. Within 15 kms at 100kph i got 3 errors of P062B-00 (2F). Stopped, checked with GAP tool, checked engine bay, no voltage, coolant or visible issues. Cleared alarms and continued. 3 errors each instance returned multiple times, cleared them and continued. Once we got off the highway and slowed to 80kph around Litchfield, no more errors for multiple days, including the 40Km 4wd track from Daly River towing the camper. No issues.

Symptom3: After a few days in Litchfield, drove to Darwin, got one more set of 3 P062B errors as we accelerated to 100kph, then all ok for the 90km into town. Once camper disconnected, have driven around for 2 days without error. Today whilst accelerated from lights (without camper connected) i got P006A-00 (27). cleared it. It came back next traffic light. cleared it again. came back again. drove back to caravan park, clearing often.

I've read about both codes, I've seen that some people get both at the same time. Mine have occurred in series and days / hundreds of kms apart from each other. Both seem to be occurring under load (P062B whilst pulling camper at 100+ kph, and today P006A when accelerating off the lights.)

Other issues which i believe at totally non related. Front suspension bushes are shot, having them replaced on Tuesday. Front drivers door lock is failing intermittently. Think its the motor. Getting error code B10EB-11 (68), have read about replacing either the whole assembly ($200+ and having to wait for part to be shipped) or trying to replace just the motor from hobby shop.) Currently putting up with the error and risking theft when sometimes drivers door is not locking.

Any thoughts or recommendations re P062B and P006A are greatly appreciated.
Andy

go-disco4
6th August 2017, 11:03 PM
Hi Aulro,

Any thoughts or recommendations re P062B and P006A are greatly appreciated.
Andy

Hi

From the manual. Sorry about the formatting.

Could not find P)62b only P006A

Codes; Description; Possible Causes; Action

P006A-21

MAP - Mass or Volume Air
Flow Correlation - signal
amplitude < minimum


Air leakage in the intake
path between the
turbocharger and the
engine


Check the intake air system for leakage after
the turbocharger. Check for DTCs indicating a
Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor fault.
Rectify as necessary. Clear the DTCs and test
for normal operation


P006A-22

MAP - Mass or Volume Air
Flow Correlation - signal
amplitude > maximum
Mass or volume air flow
correlation: right-hand bank
- signal amplitude greater
than maximum


Oil ingress into the intake
manifold


Manifold absolute pressure
and temperature (MAPT)
sensor circuit fault


MAPT sensor fault


Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
fault


Turbocharger fault


With the engine at idle, check the manifold air
pressure and indicated torque set points using
a data logger function. If the manifold air
pressure is greater than 140 KPa (20.31
lbs/inÇ) or the torque less than 70 Nm (51.63
lbf/ft), check for oil being drawn into the intake
manifold. Repair/renew as necessary. Clear the
DTCs and test for normal operation. Stop the
engine and turn the ignition on. Using a data
logger function, monitor the turbocharger
actuator angles. Command the actuator to 5%
pulse width modulated (PWM) then to 95%
pulse width modulated (PWM) and check the
angle values. The angle at 5% pulse width
modulated (PWM) should be 0 - 20%, and at
95% 80 - 95%. If the values are inside this
range, install a new MAF sensor. Refer to the
relevant section of the workshop manual. If the
values are outside this range, install a new
turbocharger. Clear the DTCs and test for
normal operation
P007C-16 Charge Air Cooler
Temperature Sensor Circuit
Low (Bank 1) - circuit voltage
below threshold
Right-hand charge air
temperature sensor circuit
voltage below threshold
(the charge air temperature
sensor is part of the
manifold absolute pressure
and temperature (MAPT)
sensor)
Charge air temperature
sensor circuit short circuit
to ground
Right-hand MAPT sensor
fault
Check the right-hand MAPT sensor and circuits.

Hope this helps

GD-4

DiscoJeffster
7th August 2017, 12:49 AM
P062B - internal control module fuel injector control performance

Can't find a decent related fault however I'm sorry

wombathole
7th August 2017, 09:19 AM
Checked the MAP sensor, full of gunk. Carefully cleaned. P006a continues. Also got one P2192. (System too rich at higher load Bank 1)

Checked the EGR valve readings vs commanded setting. Aligned.

Noticed a new sound between 2 and 2.5 k, then error at 2.5. Sounds like air sucking through a tube. Could it be related to the secondary turbo?

Thanks in advance.

Ean Austral
7th August 2017, 11:59 AM
When they replaced the water manifold they would have had to remove the Y piece . Wonder if you have a slight air leak on 1 of the O rings , that could explain the inlet side air noise and faults.

just a thought.

cheers Ean

DiscoJeffster
7th August 2017, 12:27 PM
When they replaced the water manifold they would have had to remove the Y piece . Wonder if you have a slight air leak on 1 of the O rings , that could explain the inlet side air noise and faults.

just a thought.

cheers Ean

Yes my Y piece was cracked at the y junction and leaked but the error never mentioned fuel issues. Both errors were related to air flow. The error here does mention fuel system so I think the P006a relates to performance due to the fuel issue (maybe?)?

Ean Austral
7th August 2017, 01:11 PM
I was more referring to the air thru a straw noise , usually its related to intake side and if that's been disturbed then it's even more possible.
The fuel issue - not sure - is it worth draining the filter into a glass and checking for contamination. If it's the same filter as the late model D3 I have a new one here in Darwin.
i always get suss when I read of either alternator failure or battery issues and faults on these cars - I had a couple of faults drive me crazy over a period of a month and after many hours of checking I got a battery that held good charge load tested and the battery was stuffed. Could be totally unrelated but the dead alternator is what caught my attention

Cheers Ean

Ean Austral
7th August 2017, 01:37 PM
I just re-read your original post - feel a bit silly saying this - but you have checked your air cleaner filter ? looking at where you have been , not sure how much dust you have travelled thru but faults seem to be when under load and you are having intake faults.

Worth a quick look.

Cheers Ean

wombathole
7th August 2017, 02:00 PM
Found a broken line that goes from near cylinder two to a plastic box behind the oil filter. What is this? And could it be causing my problems?https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/142.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/143.jpg

Ean Austral
7th August 2017, 02:58 PM
On my D3 it looks like a similar hose but its rubber, seems to be some form of air hose, could just be a pressure equalise of some sort. I would say that is most likely the noise you can hear . There's not oil everywhere so it seems like its not a oil line.


Don't like your chances of getting that replaced with original here in Darwin , maybe a hose that 1 of the hydraulic hose mobs could make for you.


Cheers Ean

wombathole
7th August 2017, 03:04 PM
Replaced the tubing. Still making sucking / blowing sound between 2 and 2.5. Still alarming into restricted performance.

Ean Austral
7th August 2017, 04:52 PM
Wow - you did well replacing it on cup day in Darwin. Sorry I can't even recommend anyone local who would know much about the D4 . I assume it's the 3ltr .

cheers Ean

wombathole
7th August 2017, 07:54 PM
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/169.jpg

I have an inlet manifold leak on drivers side. Coming from near cylinder 2 injector. Somewhere on the plastic air manifold???

Should I;
1. Try to glue it up?
2. Replace just this one?
3. Replace both?

Car has done 125k, 2009 motor. Has this manifold part been upgraded???

Ean Austral
7th August 2017, 08:02 PM
Did you remove the broken pipe / line from the previous pictures and replace it , or , did you just wrap it up in 100mph tape ?

Can you see a crack in the plastic cover cant really tell in the picture.

Cheers Ean

wombathole
7th August 2017, 08:21 PM
I replaced the tubing with a similar internal diameter flex rubber tube. Can see in picture foreground. Used double ended barb connectors to get it fixed to the rubber joiners at both ends. Don't believe leak is coming from them. Can't see crack. I'm assuming it's along the seam between the top and the side facing the injectors. Seen a similar fault in on line photos. Will take it to a shop tomorrow and ask for a pressure test.

DiscoJeffster
7th August 2017, 08:38 PM
Very common fault. Mine had the driver side done at 160k km. The passengers is still going strong at 240k km. Based on that I'd only do the one at this stage and save your money for the second if it ever goes in your ownership.
I was wondering if that was the issue for you but your symptoms are slightly different to most who have this issue.
It's expensive to fix as the fuel pipes are one use only, along with the amount of labour required to remove and reinstall. Factor in around $3k if that's it.

wombathole
7th August 2017, 09:03 PM
Looks like I've cracked the manifold. Very well described here. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/226600-3-litre-inlet-manifold-crack-problems.html

Ean Austral
8th August 2017, 06:13 AM
Very common fault. Mine had the driver side done at 160k km. The passengers is still going strong at 240k km. Based on that I'd only do the one at this stage and save your money for the second if it ever goes in your ownership.
I was wondering if that was the issue for you but your symptoms are slightly different to most who have this issue.
It's expensive to fix as the fuel pipes are one use only, along with the amount of labour required to remove and reinstall. Factor in around $3k if that's it.

Ouch .

cheers Ean

PerthDisco
8th August 2017, 09:10 AM
Ouch .

cheers Ean

Gotta love those old school 'go for ever' 2.7Ds Ean [emoji1305]

Ean Austral
8th August 2017, 06:16 PM
Gotta love those old school 'go for ever' 2.7Ds Ean [emoji1305]

im not brave enough to comment . I know just how much luck I have - bad luck that is.

cheers Ean

wombathole
8th August 2017, 07:53 PM
Confirmed my diagnosis with smoke today. What are typical prices to replace one side? Parts plus about 8 hours effort? I'm getting a price tomorrow. Would like a guide of what is reasonable. Thx.

DiscoJeffster
8th August 2017, 10:32 PM
Very common fault. Mine had the driver side done at 160k km. The passengers is still going strong at 240k km. Based on that I'd only do the one at this stage and save your money for the second if it ever goes in your ownership.
I was wondering if that was the issue for you but your symptoms are slightly different to most who have this issue.
It's expensive to fix as the fuel pipes are one use only, along with the amount of labour required to remove and reinstall. Factor in around $3k if that's it.


Confirmed my diagnosis with smoke today. What are typical prices to replace one side? Parts plus about 8 hours effort? I'm getting a price tomorrow. Would like a guide of what is reasonable. Thx.

As above as I'd already posted. Around $3k plus or minus $500 at a genuine dealer. I'd estimate an Indy would do it for between $1500-2000 approximately.

eddomak
9th August 2017, 11:10 AM
This just happened to me at 97,000kms, 7 years old MY10 3.0, just the driver's side.

Price was 8 hours labour plus parts (and some other sundry parts), around $2200.

PerthDisco
9th August 2017, 12:30 PM
Is the problem perhaps due because the unit is alternately under suction then pressure due to turbo boost?

DiscoJeffster
9th August 2017, 12:49 PM
Is the problem perhaps due because the unit is alternately under suction then pressure due to turbo boost?

Yes, plus the plastic goes through many heat cycles. At the end of the day, a little cost and weight saving by LR using plastic causes this issue for all, yet they don't consider it a design flaw that warrants compensation. Not fit for purpose in my opinion.
Wouldn't happen with an aluminium plenum.

kglew
10th August 2017, 08:39 AM
Good morning. P062B is a fault code mentioned in a Service Bulletin from a couple of years ago. it is a Calibration issue in the PCM. The code is logged usually on warmer days, and usually while towing something reasonably heavy. The "Engine systems fault" message displayed on the dash will stay on until an update to the PCM is carried out. From memory, i don't think there is a restricted performance issue. But you will need to get to a dealer so they can carry out the Download required. Hope this helps

wombathole
10th August 2017, 07:24 PM
Good morning. P062B is a fault code mentioned in a Service Bulletin from a couple of years ago. it is a Calibration issue in the PCM. The code is logged usually on warmer days, and usually while towing something reasonably heavy. The "Engine systems fault" message displayed on the dash will stay on until an update to the PCM is carried out. From memory, i don't think there is a restricted performance issue. But you will need to get to a dealer so they can carry out the Download required. Hope this helps

Thanks kglew, that fits. I was towing the camper trailer out of Katherine. It was 33+ c. I reset the error through the iidtool multiple times and slowed down. Error stopped activating.

Thanks for the reply.

DiscoJeffster
10th August 2017, 11:21 PM
Thanks kglew, that fits. I was towing the camper trailer out of Katherine. It was 33+ c. I reset the error through the iidtool multiple times and slowed down. Error stopped activating.

Thanks for the reply.

Aside from your issue being related to an (eventually obvious) gaping hole in the intake hence the error reporting disparity between MAF and MAP readings. It's actually awesome that these cars have both, as older cars didn't and relied on one or the other.