Cheap engine rebuild

[deano2469]

Hi guys, I know this is an old question but money is tight and I don't need a motor that will last another 20+ years. I'm planning to clean and straighten block obviously but if crank and bores are ok just want to do stock rings and bearings if not then will do.Hoping hone will do bores. I have near new rego heads to go on so need timing chain/ gears, oil pump, water pump bolts and gaskets to put all together. Can anyone recommend someone in Brisbane to talk to who won't take offence that I don't want top hat liners or want to spend less than two grand on a four grand car. Any info would be awesome.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

so, second hand stuff is ok?

I wouldnt be surprised if there isnt some second hand stuff squirreled away by some here,,

[deano2469]

so, second hand stuff is ok?

I wouldnt be surprised if there isnt some second hand stuff squirreled away by some here,,Well, block not ok, bores are all 7 thou out of round, needs bore,crank needs machine, heads and block need skimmed. Lovely. Oh well, all bits available at rimmed bros in UK, so much for cheap. $2000 so far, with no assemble. Will see how much it goes and keep posted for info sake.[emoji87] [emoji86] [emoji85]

[Keithy P38]

Rebuilds are never cheap! Good luck mate!

[101RRS]

Rebuilds are never cheap! Good luck mate!

Yes - I totally agree - there is never a cheap rebuild. I have just rebuilt a RV8 - doing the build myself and contracting out the tech bits like crank and honing - the dollars rapidly build up.

Garry

[p38arover]

Timing cover/oil pump - see the Markets

[deano2469]

OK, update time. Complete rebuild kit less head bits as my heads are good, from rimmer bros in UK, delivered, $1200 and change. This includes them swapping out standard pistons and rings for +20 set. Includes Cam and Cam kit, oil pump, head Bolt's etc. Engine guys pressure tested block and say block is good to go. $800 to a grand worth o f machining and cleaning...depending on cash I can assemble or they can. Light at end of tunnel?... we'll see.

[p38arover]

Engine guys pressure tested block and say block is good to go.

I hope so.

See Land Rover V8 Cylinder Leak / Crack - YouTube (https://youtu.be/zlRkbeY7_IY)

Revised Land Rover Engine Block Tester - YouTube (https://youtu.be/t-NrrCpHhP8)

Rover V8 Block Cracked (Trailer) - YouTube (https://youtu.be/X_NTa6Ag954)

[deano2469]

Yeah I saw similar videos and that's why I asked them to make sure...I can only hope I guess, gotta trust em for now...cheers.

[101RRS]

What engine is it - 4.0 or 4.6 and low comp or hi comp?

If you are getting the block bored out to fit +20 pistons I would get the block pressure tested again afterwards as it has been known that on occasion the boring process can move the liners.

Did you get new lifters to go with the new crank?

Ron that crank and conrods you gave me those years back are now in a sort of running engine - crank needed a 10 though grind. [bigsmile1] I used 4.0 pistons to get a bit more compression.

Garry

[p38arover]

Gary, was that the crank that had the big end shell rotate? I can't remember if the damaged crank was the one I had ground and fully balanced when I had the P38A engine rebuilt.

[101RRS]

I am not sure - the engine guy said it was in pretty good condition but one big end journal had a bit of a blemish that would not polish out so the min was taken off on the others - have run the engine on gas and petrol with carbs to run the cam in and now in the process of converting to fuel injection with the proper Thor top end.
128816


So Deano - just been through what is in front of you - it is not the big things that add up as they are planned as you have indicated - it is all the little things and the running around but you have the advantage that you have all the ancillaries already.

Good luck with it.

Garry

[deano2469]

I am not sure - the engine guy said it was in pretty good condition but one big end journal had a bit of a blemish that would not polish out so the min was taken off on the others - have run the engine on gas and petrol with carbs to run the cam in and now in the process of converting to fuel injection with the proper Thor top end.
128816


So Deano - just been through what is in front of you - it is not the big things that add up as they are planned as you have indicated - it is all the little things and the running around but you have the advantage that you have all the ancillaries already.

Good luck with it.

Garry


Hi Garry, yeah its the 4.6 high compression. I ordered a cam kit that has lifters included. I will get them to check again pressure after boring out. Originally i was not aware you could get oversized stuff at all so that was kind of a relief to find... i have another whole engine , a 4.6 gems that needs rebuild as well. it has a lip on one side of one of the bores, i might get that looked at too. i think it might be more than 20 thou though. might need top hat liners or on sleeve done. i am going to look at selling everything i don't need when i'm done, including my 96 p38 that will be complete as possible. it's done 350 ish ks. a little rattle on start after a week or two but runs good. Just to try and recoup some funds.

Thanks all for the support, will keep you posted.

Dean

[101RRS]

Looks like you have things covered -hope it all comes together for you.

Garry

[redandy3575]

With the Cam kit, that's not the advanced timing set up is it?

[deano2469]

With the Cam kit, that's not the advanced timing set up is it?Hi man, no it's an aftermarket standard camshaft kit.

[redandy3575]

Hi man, no it's an aftermarket standard camshaft kit.
Ah ok, All good then.
Reason for asking, I had the advanced timing kit in mine, and was causing damage to the engine block. I removed it just in time.

[deano2469]

Ah ok, All good then.
Reason for asking, I had the advanced timing kit in mine, and was causing damage to the engine block. I removed it just in time.Oh, ok, that was lucky, in a way. I thought I would stick as much as possible to standard as I know little about these engines and wanted to keep costs as low as I could too with less machining.that's why I stayed with tty head bolts instead of studs for example. Dean [emoji87] [emoji86] [emoji85]

[101RRS]

You did get a single chain timing kit I hope? The double chain kit does not go on a standard 4.0 Thor engine.

Garry

[deano2469]

You did get a single chain timing kit I hope? The double chain kit does not go on a standard 4.0 Thor engine.

GarryYes mate, got the standard timing chain set. Give us a day or so and I will put rimmer bros part numbers up in case anyone else is interested.