Rear Fridge Connector

[Ralph1Malph]

Hi all,
I have been asking a lot of questions recently, as I am trying to finally set my D3 up for touring and a cape trip!

My car is fitted with a dual battery and traxide setup so I have aux power in the boot.
Until recently, I did what most others do and used a standard accessory socket and plugged my fridge (waeco fwiw) in that way.
True to form, after a few bumps it wiggled loose and I cracked the sads and replaced both plug and socket with spade connectors.

I am now looking at something more elegant and multi purpose.
Straight to mind comes merit plugs and I considered mounting a merit socket in the same location as the factory accessory socket, but on the other side.
However this necessitates having the merit plug protrude when connected and I'd prefer that it didn't as when loaded up it's exposed to being knocked.

Then I considered anderson plugs for a nice flush look but the 50 amp plugs are to big for the wiring and ugly inside the car IMHO. 20/30 amp anderson style are not overly popular or available.

What solution do y'all use for your fridge or semi permanent accessories in the back?

Cheers
Ralph

[ytt105]

I purchased an additional 12v Waeco lead and have semi permanently connected it to the Traxide system with large barrel connectors and hidden the connection under the false floor area.
The lead is shoved into the mesh area on the side panel until needed. I also put a little hook on the top corner of the fridge so that I can run the cable through it and then the cable doesn't get caught in the movement of the fridge slide.

Regards
Trev

[Ralph1Malph]

I purchased an additional 12v Waeco lead and have semi permanently connected it to the Traxide system with large barrel connectors and hidden the connection under the false floor area.
The lead is shoved into the mesh area on the side panel until needed. I also put a little hook on the top corner of the fridge so that I can run the cable through it and then the cable doesn't get caught in the movement of the fridge slide.

Regards
Trev

Thanks Trev,
I'm looking at semi permanently wiring the cable as well and just winding it up behind the jack storage panel.
I don't have those little mesh areas :( on the side panels....wish I did, can they be purchased?

Cheers
Ralph

[drivesafe]

Hi Ralph, have a look at where the factory plug is mounted.

Then go to the opposite side, the driver's side, to the same position.

Now have a look at the flat panel located just above where the socket would normally be pointing sidewards into the cargo area.

You can mount a socket in that flat area on top of the panel and then the plug will be pointing upwards and will not rattle out.

I would post up some photos but I just can't work out the correct way to get that done.

[Tombie]

Or he could go with Andersen power poles [emoji41]

[scarry]

Here is my setup,there are two sockets,one cig,one Merrit,Traxide kit.
I don't use the cig very often,the Merrit is used all the time for the fridge,also the spotlight.
It has never come lose or fallen out,over 5 yrs of travel.

I have a bit of wood(can be seen in pic) between the old Engle and the wheel arch,so i can put things there,but it isn't needed.Even with the fridge pushed right up against the wheel arch,the merrit plug is fine.I also have a switch in the cord going to the Engle so i can turn it off for whatever reason,without pulling the merit plug out.

As for merrit plugs,and sockets,only get good quality ones,i usually use Narva,there are cheap chinese ones around that are garbage.

Apologise for the pic on its side,seems it doesn't want to turn around,bloody phone pic......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1011.jpg (https://picturepush.com/public/15945625)

[Bytemrk]

Mine is the same as Pauls above, except I have an Engel socket rather than the Merit. It works really well without getting in the way.

[l00kin4]

Hi Ralph, have a look at where the factory plug is mounted.

Then go to the opposite side, the driver's side, to the same position.

Now have a look at the flat panel located just above where the socket would normally be pointing sidewards into the cargo area.

You can mount a socket in that flat area on top of the panel and then the plug will be pointing upwards and will not rattle out.

I would post up some photos but I just can't work out the correct way to get that done.

I followed Tim’s advice above- this is the position of the socket

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1013.jpg
Works perfectly for me as I have my fridge set up on that side.

Pic with the plug (reinforcing point about quality plugs above - this cheap plug was a bit unreliable and has since been replaced with a better Narva plug) in:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1021.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EbTGuP)IMG_9433 cropped (https://flic.kr/p/EbTGuP) by David Byrne (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161839265@N05/), on Flickr

I’ve also mounted one on the other side but under that position:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1014.jpg

David

[l00kin4]

I don't have those little mesh areas :( on the side panels....wish I did, can they be purchased?

Cheers
Ralph

I have looked into that before and unfortunately the mesh isn’t available as an add on- comes with that full trim panel.

David

[Markf]

Or he could go with Andersen power poles [emoji41]

Absolutely. Power Poles are the way to go. In the amateur radio world power poles are king and all of my 12V stuff has been changed to power poles.
Easily, cheaply and quickly got from Anderson PowerPole 15/45 Red Black Pair w 30A Contacts. [pp30rb] - $1.82 : Anderson Power Connections, Genuine Anderson - no junk here (http://andersonconnect.com.au/store/index.php'main_page=product_info&cPath=36_41&products_id=94)

[Aussie Jeepster]

Absolutely. Power Poles are the way to go. In the amateur radio world power poles are king and all of my 12V stuff has been changed to power poles.
Easily, cheaply and quickly got from Anderson PowerPole 15/45 Red Black Pair w 30A Contacts. [pp30rb] - $1.82 : Anderson Power Connections, Genuine Anderson - no junk here (http://andersonconnect.com.au/store/index.php'main_page=product_info&cPath=36_41&products_id=94)

Amazing - never even knew about these!
The joys of learning things on a great forum!

[morgiemorganson]

I put a hella and Engel type plug under the edge here. Out of the way and the Engel plug screws in so never comes loose. Perfect.

Do note the blanks I had to put in the holes ARB Thornleigh made next to the factory socket. I specifically asked them not to put them there!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1022.jpg

[DiscoMick]

I have a lead with an Anderson plug running to under the rear of the drawers where my second battery is located, hidden behind the rear seat, and connected to another Anderson plug. All hidden from sight. This is in a Defender.

[Eric SDV6SE]

I put a hella and Engel type plug under the edge here. Out of the way and the Engel plug screws in so never comes loose. Perfect.

Do note the blanks I had to put in the holes ARB Thornleigh made next to the factory socket. I specifically asked them not to put them there!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1022.jpg

When connected, do the plugs get in the way of opening the access panel? Im looking at doing the same thing as presently my fridge jams the plug into the socket. I want to relocate the socket to the top of the side panel, never thought of the position underneath, looks very neat.

[morgiemorganson]

Hey, they would get in the way but for the very few times I need anything from that panel it is worth it.

[LRD414]

I added an extra lead with Anderson plug, spliced into the Traxide cable where it crosses the boot under the carpet.
The lead lives inside the storage cubby when not in use.
I dremmeled an almost invisible recess into the removable panel so it still sits flush when the cable is out
The fridge lead was changed to Anderson to suit.
I use the cig socket supplied with the Traxide kit for lights and charging phones when in camp.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1036.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Pddws3)

Scott

[Tombie]

I followed Tim’s advice above- this is the position of the socket

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1013.jpg
Works perfectly for me as I have my fridge set up on that side.

Pic with the plug (reinforcing point about quality plugs above - this cheap plug was a bit unreliable and has since been replaced with a better Narva plug) in:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1021.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EbTGuP)IMG_9433 cropped (https://flic.kr/p/EbTGuP) by David Byrne (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161839265@N05/), on Flickr

I’ve also mounted one on the other side but under that position:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1014.jpg

David

That one on the top.. it stops you being able to store the cargo blind when in 7 seater mode [emoji6]

[loanrangie]

Good point Tombie, i do like the top mounting though. There are a couple of raised circular bits in the plastic just in front of the bins that would work well for a socket on either side.

[rocket rod]

This is my solution. I always use Anderson plugs where possible. I fill up the Anderson connectors with solder and use a blow torch to melt it then plunge the wires in. Works a treat.

[l00kin4]

That one on the top.. it stops you being able to store the cargo blind when in 7 seater mode [emoji6]

Thanks Tombie, good spot.
I didn’t notice this as I don’t use the cargo blind but I did just check it and although it does foul slightly, the blind still clips in and sits fine.
David
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1057.jpg

[RobA]

The best plugs are Hella Marine screw ins. Cost around $50 for the pair and never ever have a problem with them pulling apart. Been using them in our 4WD's for around 20 years and not an issue ever. Push in plugs are nowhere near as reliable IMHO and experience

Waterproof Plugs and Sockets - Accessories, Plugs - Hella Marine (http://www.hellamarine.com/en/products/accessories/plugs/plastic-waterproof-plugs-and-sockets.html)

Rob

[DI5CO]

I didn’t want to put mine on the top there either as I thought it would interfere with the blind, also I wanted it on the LHS as that’s where I put my fridge. I put mine in this spot that way if I wanted to change anything it was cheaper to buy a little blanking plate than a whole side section. It’s also closer for the kids to use if they need extra power. I have also changed the factory 12v plug to the 2nd battery power. While I was there, I tapped into the power and ran this LED light and switch.
Dave.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1100.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1101.jpg

[AnD3rew]

Here’s what I did for mine

New rear load space addition to my Traxide system (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/197666-new-rear-load-space-addition-my-traxide-system.html)

[loanrangie]

I didn’t want to put mine on the top there either as I thought it would interfere with the blind, also I wanted it on the LHS as that’s where I put my fridge. I put mine in this spot that way if I wanted to change anything it was cheaper to buy a little blanking plate than a whole side section. It’s also closer for the kids to use if they need extra power. I have also changed the factory 12v plug to the 2nd battery power. While I was there, I tapped into the power and ran this LED light and switch.
Dave.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1100.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/1101.jpg

Thats where i plan to put my sockets, i also prefer the fridge on the LH side. What sockets did you use ?

[DI5CO]

Thats where i plan to put my sockets, i also prefer the fridge on the LH side. What sockets did you use ?

Hi Loanrangie
I used merit plugs. 1 was supplied with the dual batt kit and the other I had at home. The only issue I find is when you pull the plug out the plate comes out too as it’s not that well held in lol. I just hold it down as I pull the plug out.
Dave

[l00kin4]

I also prefer the fridge on the LH side.

I didn't really think about that too much but as a matter of interest any particular reason for the LHS preference?

Mine's on the RHS only based loosely on the logic that if the fridge is on the right then when using it we're on the LHS, so if stopped on a road / track access is all away from passing traffic...

David

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/26.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23WJyz3)

[loanrangie]

I just prefer the left side for no particular reason apart from thats where I had the sockets in my d1.

[orville]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/28.jpg trying this setup. Engel plug and CIG. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/29.jpg testing the charging with solar panel through each plug. Pins ,3 and 4 go to main battery.

[loanrangie]

I just prefer the left side for no particular reason apart from thats where I had the sockets in my d1.

Well um, i didnt quite have enough cable so i put my sockets on the right for now and will replicate it for the left blanking plate.
Ended up with 1 merit and 1 cigi socket, routing the cable was easier than expected thanks to the channel in the sill that is just the right size for 6mm twin core.

[Eric SDV6SE]

This is my solution. I always use Anderson plugs where possible. I fill up the Anderson connectors with solder and use a blow torch to melt it then plunge the wires in. Works a treat.

Hands down the best way for secure Anderson plugs, I’ve done all mine on my camper that way.

[dero]

I used an engel plug in the back of my defender , has given no trouble for a long time on some very rough roads .

[AnD3rew]

Hands down the best way for secure Anderson plugs, I’ve done all mine on my camper that way.

Yep that’s how I do mine as well

[loanrangie]

If I was using Anderson plugs I would have them on a fly lead so you could tuck it away when not used.

[LRD414]

If I was using Anderson plugs I would have them on a fly lead so you could tuck it away when not used.

Yep agreed, this is what I did. More flexible for attaching different things and hidden when not needed. See post #16

Scott

[Ralph1Malph]

OK, I just got around to doing this job.
Not overly difficult but.....as I have 7 seats, the seat belt retracter restricts access a bit and limits positioning a little.

I fitted two sockets, one is a merit, the other is one of those cigarette lighter types with the 'twist to lock' grooves and pretty blue powered up led's.

I ended up mounting the lower one 5 mm lower than I wanted and the upper could be another 5 mm further away from the lower.
'twas my own fault as I drilled the first on the wrong mark!
Still, pretty happy, they don't foul the re-movable panel and the merit is the lowest one so my fridge cable is well tucked away and will not jiggle loose!
I've also re-terminated my waeco cable to a merit, so I'll need to acquire a spare normal one.

They are both powered from the Traxide Aux cct, and share a 15A inline fuse.

Well chuffed.

Cheers Ralph
139016139017 139018

[AK83]

The Narva 81024BL plugs are the way to go with cig/12v sockets.
Won't fall out, and need a bit of force to remove.
About $10 or so. 20A rating too, but for a fridge, not important.

I have a few, and was on the brothers case when he complained about his fridge plug always falling out on trips too.
He finally got one and loves it too.

I also have the Narva 82110BL(with the red tip)which is std 12v socket and Merit compatible, and it's OK, but not as good.

[Ozzy119]

After a few too many annoying drop outs turning the fridge off from the traxide 12v aux power point I decided to solder a connection to the loom and fit an anderson plug on that extra line. Fridge also now has anderson connection. No more issues and for me, well out of the way. Also added benefit that the 12v socket is freed up for other stuff / lights etc as needed.

[Tombie]

Always beats me Why people mount those power sockets inverted!
Any corrugated tracks will have the plugs working their way out.
Doesn’t matter how tight you think it is...

[Aussie Jeepster]

Tidied up my power sockets today.
No shortage of places to plug things in to!!!
139419139420139421

[Ralph1Malph]

Hello Everyone!
An old thread but an update that y'all might find interesting.

I purchased a 12V oven for last Fathers Day and up until recently, only used it in plugged into my camper.
Was on Fraser Island last week and decided to plug it into my car, out of the weather.
I know it draws 8.6 A and my waeco maybe 3-5. I fused the circuit at 15A when wiring the outlets (that's the earlier bit of this thread[bigsmile1]), so I thought, all good!

To set the scene, the car smelt of a wonderful plum sauced pork roast when I checked and was about 3/4 cooked. Sweet!
I went to check it again about 20 min later and immediately knew something was up!
The cabin no longer smelt of pork, but of acrid melted plastic! Bugger!
Thing was, the oven and fridge were both still running as normal.

I pulled both plugs out and whipped the access cover off to find this:
176139 176140
I've removed the char to inspect the fuse, but until I did, the cct was still intact, even though the fuse case had melted from the filament!
Over the years I've had fuses melt before blowing, but not to this extent or this length of time.

Here's the fascinating bit....the engineer in me snipped the melted holder out, as in the pics and temporarily re-terminated with spades and a new fuse.
Upon reconnection of the oven (leaving the fridge off till the roast cooks) I did a basic touch test of all the wiring to see if there was any heat build up.
I found that the wire between the original fuse holder crimp join and the now temp fuse, was warming quickly....Aha!
The crimp join was high resistance. This caused the overall power consumption of the circuit to increase and be dissipated as heat.
In this case, both the fridge and oven being predominately resistive loads and designed to dissipate excess heat, have largely fixed electrical characteristics.
The only real variable was the additional cct resistance, thus power dissipation (wattage), causing the weakest thermal component to suffer, whilst raising the current draw so gradually that the fuse didn't pop!

Anyhoo, I've decided to run a new, separately fused circuit for the oven using an Anderson plug and fatter gauge wire.
So where to mount the Anderson plug? I reckon I'll actually just leave it free and coil it up behind the panel when not in use.

Cheers.
Ralph

PS, the roast finished and was yummmmmmmmy!
PPS. I re-crimped the crimp and all was good.

[josh.huber]

Those fuse holders do that all the time, they are great for a shock load or dead short, but not much else, they generate heat around the fuse connection because they are not tight enough. Your right. They stink. Lucky you ended up with dinner and not a roast elsewhere!

Which oven did you get??

[Ralph1Malph]

Which oven did you get??

176145
I chose it coz it was a little bigger than others, had a cam lock insulated door and came with brackets for fastening down.
Other than that I am no travel oven expert!

Works a treat tho.

Cheers
Ralph

[josh.huber]

176145
I chose it coz it was a little bigger than others, had a cam lock insulated door and came with brackets for fastening down.
Other than that I am no travel oven expert!

Works a treat tho.

Cheers
Ralph

Yeah nice, my mate loves his. It's on my list

[ozscott]

Those fuse holders do that all the time, they are great for a shock load or dead short, but not much else, they generate heat around the fuse connection because they are not tight enough. Your right. They stink. Lucky you ended up with dinner and not a roast elsewhere!

Which oven did you get??Good ones are fine for lighter loads. Narva for eg have very tight fitting blade fuses. I would not use any for maxi fuses any more (for that Blue Seas bakerlight holder or go to ceramic fuses). I have tried good quality Narva plugs but have now modified all my gear to Anderson plugs (and where necessary wired a cig plug in also to allow use in cig sockets- eg 12 v pie cookers). But fridge is Anderson for eg - no warm beers after several 100 ks of corrugations and no broken flimsy narva plugs/cig plugs. Cheers

[Geedublya]

Hello Everyone!
An old thread but an update that y'all might find interesting.

I purchased a 12V oven for last Fathers Day and up until recently, only used it in plugged into my camper.
Was on Fraser Island last week and decided to plug it into my car, out of the weather.
I know it draws 8.6 A and my waeco maybe 3-5. I fused the circuit at 15A when wiring the outlets (that's the earlier bit of this thread[bigsmile1]), so I thought, all good!

To set the scene, the car smelt of a wonderful plum sauced pork roast when I checked and was about 3/4 cooked. Sweet!
I went to check it again about 20 min later and immediately knew something was up!
The cabin no longer smelt of pork, but of acrid melted plastic! Bugger!
Thing was, the oven and fridge were both still running as normal.

I pulled both plugs out and whipped the access cover off to find this:
176139 176140
I've removed the char to inspect the fuse, but until I did, the cct was still intact, even though the fuse case had melted from the filament!
Over the years I've had fuses melt before blowing, but not to this extent or this length of time.

Here's the fascinating bit....the engineer in me snipped the melted holder out, as in the pics and temporarily re-terminated with spades and a new fuse.
Upon reconnection of the oven (leaving the fridge off till the roast cooks) I did a basic touch test of all the wiring to see if there was any heat build up.
I found that the wire between the original fuse holder crimp join and the now temp fuse, was warming quickly....Aha!
The crimp join was high resistance. This caused the overall power consumption of the circuit to increase and be dissipated as heat.
In this case, both the fridge and oven being predominately resistive loads and designed to dissipate excess heat, have largely fixed electrical characteristics.
The only real variable was the additional cct resistance, thus power dissipation (wattage), causing the weakest thermal component to suffer, whilst raising the current draw so gradually that the fuse didn't pop!

Anyhoo, I've decided to run a new, separately fused circuit for the oven using an Anderson plug and fatter gauge wire.
So where to mount the Anderson plug? I reckon I'll actually just leave it free and coil it up behind the panel when not in use.

Cheers.
Ralph

PS, the roast finished and was yummmmmmmmy!
PPS. I re-crimped the crimp and all was good.


Hey Ralph the current didn't increase due to the high resistance crimp, Ohms law will show you the truth, (V=IR) voltage is constant (your battery) resistance is increased therefore current decreased. I suspect your fuse holder had a poor connection or wasn't rated for the current you were pulling through it which caused it to heat up resulting the melted plastic. The bad crimp was another point of resistance and so heated up.

[Ralph1Malph]

Hey Ralph the current didn't increase due to the high resistance crimp, Ohms law will show you the truth, (V=IR) voltage is constant (your battery) resistance is increased therefore current decreased. I suspect your fuse holder had a poor connection or wasn't rated for the current you were pulling through it which caused it to heat up resulting the melted plastic. The bad crimp was another point of resistance and so heated up.

Agreed! Ohm's law doesn't lie. I was more so talking specifically about the fuse holder rather than the entire cct. As both high resistance load appliances were still working correctly, it is useful to assume that the current was more or less the constant across the entire cct, and the voltage more or less variable across components.
The current through the fuse (holder) remained more or less constant (adequate to run the load appliances, but not high enough to blow the fuse), however the resistance of the fuse holder increased (as you correctly say), thus the voltage drop across the fuse holder increased and the power consumption (in the form of heat) of the fuse holder increased IAW P=V2/R. Result ---melted plastic for that component, which under normal circumstances is assumed zero voltage drop and low resistance!

You are right though, the culprit was the fuse holder. We are both spot on, just different explanations.

Cheers
Ralph