Inspection of head/ block

[Hunt family]

Hello,

Can anyone pick up on any faults or give feedback on anything you think should be done/ replaced?

[djam1]

The surface of the head would be of greater interest


Hello,

Can anyone pick up on any faults or give feedback on anything you think should be done/ replaced?

[bblaze]

I would clean, remove valves, remove injectors.
Check the surface of the head with a straight edge, corner to corner, across the width of head for total lenth, end tto end right across the head to check warpage. Check all ports for signs of cracks, check valves for correct seating (nice thin seat in the middle). Clean then clean some more. Then if all is ok reassemble with all new seals and orings etc
cheers
blaze
ps, You should also check your bores with an internal micrometer

[Hunt family]

I would clean, remove valves, remove injectors.
Check the surface of the head with a straight edge, corner to corner, across the width of head for total lenth, end tto end right across the head to check warpage. Check all ports for signs of cracks, check valves for correct seating (nice thin seat in the middle). Clean then clean some more. Then if all is ok reassemble with all new seals and orings etc
cheers
blaze
ps, You should also check your bores with an internal micrometer

Solid advice, thank you Blaze

[djam1]

Check for corrosion in the water galleries of the head. If corroded some of them go near the fire ring on the surface of the head this will cause you issues if the wrong coolant has been used.

[Hunt family]

When replacing valve seals, what do I need to look out for? I am a bit hesitant, after reading the write up in good oil, due to the warnings of catastrophic failure.

I bought the timing pins; however, understand the cam needs to be removed for valve seal replacement. Will the timing be affected , or do I simply line the cam lock with the locking hole before refitting the head?

[discorevy]

Yes , remove everything, as you will need to inspect and probably get a light skim on the head unless its warped, change the exhaust manifold studs , make sure you use new , good quality head bolts , and head fitting kit , if sub 200 000 k , doing the valves is maybe not necessary, up to you, but with the cam out , fill the ports with petrol and make sure there's no leakage through the valves, I'm yet to see a valve leaking on td5 with less than 300 000 k , yep , set the cam with the locking pin before refitting.

[Hunt family]

Yes , remove everything, as you will need to inspect and probably get a light skim on the head unless its warped, change the exhaust manifold studs , make sure you use new , good quality head bolts , and head fitting kit , if sub 200 000 k , doing the valves is maybe not necessary, up to you, but with the cam out , fill the ports with petrol and make sure there's no leakage through the valves, I'm yet to see a valve leaking on td5 with less than 300 000 k , yep , set the cam with the locking pin before refitting.


Considering it's over 100,000 km until that figure, it might be worth holding off on the valve seals until the time comes for a rebuild.

My main concern is the adjusters: making sure I do it right.

[discorevy]

Place the hydraulic lash adjusters in order from 1 to 10 , 1 being the front in a box ( tight fitting box so they can't get moved if accidentally knocked) check that they are all the same height, keep the injectors in order as well , number them if you need to, otherwise you'll need to code them to ecu.