Upgrading Sound System Recommendations

[Fastrunn3r]

Good Morning,
I'm going to update the stock head unit on my LR Defender 2012 90 Series.
Grateful for recommendations:
- USB input.
- Bluetooth capability.
- Subwoofer too.
Thanks.

[skidrov]

I did a bit of this a couple of years ago in my MY10 110. I think a lot of the actual kit I used is now no longer available, but perhaps some bits of info I found might help.

Someone on here mentioned as to how they'd bought a mech-less Fusion unit for a really good price. And, it literally fitted plug-and-play into their Deefer.

This got me thinking - I wasn't ready to let go CDs, but I liked the USB, bluetooth & hands-free capability they described the Fusion unit had. Also, my research showed that Fusion was NOT top-line but reasonable quality cheapish stuff, and not too blingish. And, I found that they had pretty much the same unit WITH a single CD player. We had a starting point.

Bought it, and yep pretty much plugged straight in. I have the phone hands-free mike just above the front door, with the cable running down the A-pillar, and back to the head unit. Bluetooth hooks up to my phone really well, and the CD and USBs both work very well.

I then found they did a range of speakers. I went for their "best" 5.25 in. versions: "one piece" two-way for the back and separate woofer/tweeter for the front (as per Defender standard). These fitted pretty easily with some careful Dremeling - the trickiest one was the front passenger side, where it went close to an air duct. But not too much of a challenge. All in, all good. I kept the standard speaker wires - probably would improve a bit with better quality cabling but TBH I couldn't be bothered, and figured it wasn't going to give an improve worth what I saw as quite a bit of effort...

Then, I decided I needed a bit more bass. I went with a Vibe Audio CVEN V-series "flat box" active unit. I have this mounted in the load area, on the "steps" - I have other stuff on the back of the cubby box. And, I have it mounted on "strong" velcro, with a quick release plug, in case I need to move it to carry other stuff. This has worked well - while I admit I do not regularly drive over extended corrugations, the unit has not moved in an unwanted way at all. I ran power cables across from the battery, via the B-pillar and then up/over/down the rear door. The audio feed cable and auto on/off from the head unit run via the A-pillar and then again along the top of the doors back to the load area.

This all gives pretty good sound, way up on standard. Hey, it's a Deafener, it's noisy, it's not a great acoustic box, but then like I said I didn't go for top-line kit - didn't want to, and didn't see the point in this car. Most of what I listen to is loud, and this rig sounds good (to me!) loud while driving. Definitely drowns out road noise :spudnikheadphones:

Now, the Fusion kit is, I think, no longer available. But, I guess my points are:

- a modern head unit will probably plug straight into your existing wiring;
- 5.25 in. speakers go in with relatively little effort, if you don't mind Dremeling;
- it rounds out nicely with a good sub-woofer, again with relatively little effort.

Hope that helps...

[Fastrunn3r]

I did a bit of this a couple of years ago in my MY10 110. I think a lot of the actual kit I used is now no longer available, but perhaps some bits of info I found might help.

Someone on here mentioned as to how they'd bought a mech-less Fusion unit for a really good price. And, it literally fitted plug-and-play into their Deefer.

This got me thinking - I wasn't ready to let go CDs, but I liked the USB, bluetooth & hands-free capability they described the Fusion unit had. Also, my research showed that Fusion was NOT top-line but reasonable quality cheapish stuff, and not too blingish. And, I found that they had pretty much the same unit WITH a single CD player. We had a starting point.

Bought it, and yep pretty much plugged straight in. I have the phone hands-free mike just above the front door, with the cable running down the A-pillar, and back to the head unit. Bluetooth hooks up to my phone really well, and the CD and USBs both work very well.

I then found they did a range of speakers. I went for their "best" 5.25 in. versions: "one piece" two-way for the back and separate woofer/tweeter for the front (as per Defender standard). These fitted pretty easily with some careful Dremeling - the trickiest one was the front passenger side, where it went close to an air duct. But not too much of a challenge. All in, all good. I kept the standard speaker wires - probably would improve a bit with better quality cabling but TBH I couldn't be bothered, and figured it wasn't going to give an improve worth what I saw as quite a bit of effort...

Then, I decided I needed a bit more bass. I went with a Vibe Audio CVEN V-series "flat box" active unit. I have this mounted in the load area, on the "steps" - I have other stuff on the back of the cubby box. And, I have it mounted on "strong" velcro, with a quick release plug, in case I need to move it to carry other stuff. This has worked well - while I admit I do not regularly drive over extended corrugations, the unit has not moved in an unwanted way at all. I ran power cables across from the battery, via the B-pillar and then up/over/down the rear door. The audio feed cable and auto on/off from the head unit run via the A-pillar and then again along the top of the doors back to the load area.

This all gives pretty good sound, way up on standard. Hey, it's a Deafener, it's noisy, it's not a great acoustic box, but then like I said I didn't go for top-line kit - didn't want to, and didn't see the point in this car. Most of what I listen to is loud, and this rig sounds good (to me!) loud while driving. Definitely drowns out road noise :spudnikheadphones:

Now, the Fusion kit is, I think, no longer available. But, I guess my points are:

- a modern head unit will probably plug straight into your existing wiring;
- 5.25 in. speakers go in with relatively little effort, if you don't mind Dremeling;
- it rounds out nicely with a good sub-woofer, again with relatively little effort.

Hope that helps...

Thanks for that level of detail! I'll spend some time on this!

[shack]

I've been wanting to upgrade the speakers in my 130 single cab 300tdi, has anyone had much success? It looks like it might be difficult to go much bigger? it would be great to know what others have done speaker wise In theirs.

[Olsey]

I've just replaced the factory speakers in my 2015 D90 with the following:

Alpine SPR-50C front speakers with tweeters
Alpine SPR-50 rear speakers


The speakers are slightly too large for the existing holes that the factory speakers mount into but with a sharp Stanley knife, I cut around them using the template supplied with the larger speakers. The SPR-50 speakers are 130 wide and there is no way you could fit speakers any bigger in the Puma dash.

If you're interested, I have just put up for sale the factory installed Alpine CDE-133BT headunit and SWE-1200 subwoofer - - Factory Alpine headunit & subwoofer - Canberra, ACT (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/internal-accessories-for-sale/259663-factory-alpine-headunit-subwoofer-canberra-act.html)

Also installed are the:

Alpine SWE-1500 subwoofer
Alpine PDX-F4 amplifier
Alpine UTE-62EBT headunit (which then will make way for an Alpine Apple Car play unit in the double-DIN fascia down the track)
16 gauge speaker wire

[DiscoMick]

Can I ask what sort of money are we talking about for a decent upgrade, including headunit and sub-woofer, do you think?

[skidrov]

Can I ask what sort of money are we talking about for a decent upgrade, including headunit and sub-woofer, do you think?Ooooo it's a slippery slope.... [emoji41]

Anywhere from $500ish to thousands-ish... This stuff goes exponential real quick, IMHE. Hit evilBay and see what you find, but have a budget in mind first.

The purists will (understandably) say you should hit the audio shops so you can hear what the combo will sound like - but, you won't know for sure how it sounds in your car til it's installed! And, hey, it's a Deafener... [emoji1]

Bottom line, I'm happy with my pot-luck mix-n-match grab bag. My $AU 0.02 is to get as big and as good speakers as you can fit in your budget and car... i.e. balance the spend to the speakers, bearing in mind their power demands/limits.

Final note, this thread made me look at my REAR speakers again (my car's a 110), and I found some new-old-stock 6 in. Fusion speakers on sale. So, out with the Dremel when they arrive & in they will go. Will report back how much of a challenge they are - looks like not too bad.

[roverrescue]

Another vote for fusion head unit
I did the same following AULRO advice and as well as being plyg nnplay
The BT connectivity to phone is better than most fully integrated systems in new vehicles
With the speaker tucked into the trim above drivers door you can have clear simple voice comms
Which in a deafener is suprising!

S

[ezyrama]

I've just replaced the factory speakers in my 2015 D90 with the following:

Alpine SPR-50C front speakers with tweeters
Alpine SPR-50 rear speakers


The speakers are slightly too large for the existing holes that the factory speakers mount into but with a sharp Stanley knife, I cut around them using the template supplied with the larger speakers. The SPR-50 speakers are 130 wide and there is no way you could fit speakers any bigger in the Puma dash.

If you're interested, I have just put up for sale the factory installed Alpine CDE-133BT headunit and SWE-1200 subwoofer - - Factory Alpine headunit & subwoofer - Canberra, ACT (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/internal-accessories-for-sale/259663-factory-alpine-headunit-subwoofer-canberra-act.html)

Also installed are the:

Alpine SWE-1500 subwoofer
Alpine PDX-F4 amplifier
Alpine UTE-62EBT headunit (which then will make way for an Alpine Apple Car play unit in the double-DIN fascia down the track)
16 gauge speaker wire


Thx Tim

I put a decent Sony head about 2 years ago, played and played with the equiliser settings and everything else, still not that happy with the depth of sound as I like a bit of bass and top end in my music. I'll look into the SPR50-50c speakers and give them a go. Did you find you needed the sub woofer with them or was it part of the overall kit you installed?. Since I insulated the front floor and seat box with dynamat and carpet with the factory insulation, its only 2 db above my falcon ute now and I really notice the difference in sound quality in the stereo.

Cheers Ian

[Olsey]

Thx Tim

I put a decent Sony head about 2 years ago, played and played with the equiliser settings and everything else, still not that happy with the depth of sound as I like a bit of bass and top end in my music. I'll look into the SPR50-50c speakers and give them a go. Did you find you needed the sub woofer with them or was it part of the overall kit you installed?. Since I insulated the front floor and seat box with dynamat and carpet with the factory insulation, its only 2 db above my falcon ute now and I really notice the difference in sound quality in the stereo.

Cheers Ian

It didn’t come as a kit. I purchased it all separately to suit.

My D90 came with a sub from factory but wanted the wired sub remote to adjust to my liking. Hence changing to the later model sub.

I’ve also laid butyl rubber stuff down and definitely made a difference. It’s a bit easier to hear the finer details of the music rather than being drowned out from the road noise.

[skidrov]

Final note, this thread made me look at my REAR speakers again (my car's a 110), and I found some new-old-stock 6 in. Fusion speakers on sale. So, out with the Dremel when they arrive & in they will go. Will report back how much of a challenge they are - looks like not too bad.

So, Great Success!! [biggrin]

The 6 in. speakers turned up and fitted no problems in the back (Fusion PF-FR6030, in case anyone wants to look them up for size reference). In the rear of my 110, the factory speakers are in a stepped/recessed hole in the rear trim. All I had to do was dremel out the factory hole, basically just removing the inner recessed step, and they sat in well. Four new screw-holes, plug in the wires, and we're done - no fouling/interference issues anywhere. They look fairly standard, but are pumping out a much better sound. I will admit they weren't a huge change on the 5.25 Fusions I had in there previously but there's some improve, and TBH with the price they were it was well worth a try.

Hope that helps someone, at some point.