Output flange seal on LT95A.

[Silenceisgolden]

G'day all,
I removed the front drive shaft to fix an oil leak past the splines, and noted that all four bolts have been damaged, presumably they were left loose at some time. If I remove the flange to replace them, is it likely that I will damage the seal to the flange?
Also, I need to buy new nuts for the flanges and also the large nut that holds the flange to the shaft. As near as I can judge, the four bolts are 3/8 UNF and the flange nut is 5/8 UNC. Can anyone confirm or deny that please?
The transfer box had ATF in it - do I need to flush it to put engine oil in, or can I just drain and refill with oil?
Thanks,
Paul

[Bearman]

G'day all,
I removed the front drive shaft to fix an oil leak past the splines, and noted that all four bolts have been damaged, presumably they were left loose at some time. If I remove the flange to replace them, is it likely that I will damage the seal to the flange?
Also, I need to buy new nuts for the flanges and also the large nut that holds the flange to the shaft. As near as I can judge, the four bolts are 3/8 UNF and the flange nut is 5/8 UNC. Can anyone confirm or deny that please?
The transfer box had ATF in it - do I need to flush it to put engine oil in, or can I just drain and refill with oil?
Thanks,
Paul

Those bolts and nut descriptions sound correct but I can check in the morning if you like. You should replace the seal if you disturb it as they have a habit of leaking if you don't. And while you have the dust shield off the drive flange put it back on the other way so the flat side is to the front - helps keeping mud etc off the seal face. Don't bother flushing it. Just add the correct type of oil.

[Silenceisgolden]

Those bolts and nut descriptions sound correct but I can check in the morning if you like. You should replace the seal if you disturb it as they have a habit of leaking if you don't. And while you have the dust shield off the drive flange put it back on the other way so the flat side is to the front - helps keeping mud etc off the seal face. Don't bother flushing it. Just add the correct type of oil.

Thanks Brian for the advice, I will do as you suggest. If you do have a moment to check those threads I would be grateful - I just hope they aren't BSF and Whitworth - it is hard enough here to even get UNF/UNC.

Cheers,

Paul

[JDNSW]

They won't be BSF, but I can't swear about Whitworth. That box was designed after the change to Unified threads, but I think Whitworth held on longer than BSF did.

[Silenceisgolden]

They won't be BSF, but I can't swear about Whitworth. That box was designed after the change to Unified threads, but I think Whitworth held on longer than BSF did.

Thanks John, that's good news - hopefully I will at least be able to replace the nuts joining the flanges. The one on the end of the shaft looks fairly new and the nylon looks intact.

Cheers, Paul

[Bearman]

Righto Paul, I just had a look at those bolts and nut. The bolts are definitely 3/8 with fine thread most likely UNF but I don't have any UNF dies to confirm. I did find that a M10X1 die nut goes on it beautifully.
The shaft nut is 16mm and appears to be unc. Hope this helps....Brian

[Silenceisgolden]

Great Brian, thank you, I have just got back from the local town armed with a tub of Castrol 15/40, an M16 nyloc and a handful of 3/8 UNF nylocs. There were no 5/8 UNC's, but an M16 bolt was a good fit in my old nut.

Cheers, Paul

[Red90]

Propshaft bolts are always 3/8” UNF. Good to get yourself a box of grade 8 nyloc nuts.

Most fine thread fasteners are UNF on Defenders so it is good to have a stock of them.