Dash lights stay on with key out

[pop058]

I recall a thread on this recently but cannot find it.

D2 TD5 will crank but not fire and the dash lights stay on after key removed.

Any clues

[pop058]

Bump [biggrin]

[sierrafery]

When it does that unplug the brown 6 pin connector which is plugged into the front right side of the interior fusebox and if the lights go out this way the problem is most probably in the ignition switch...if no joy we'll speak then

btw do you have some additional brake controller or something wired into that fusebox

[pop058]

I am going to put a new battery in it first but yes it has a brake controller, UHF and turbo timer all wired into a bit of a rats nest.

[pop058]

New battery fitted. Fault still occurs and the lights go out when the brown plug is removed.

[pop058]

A few more clues in the puzzle.

In removing the brake controller from the rats nest under the dash, I noticed that when pulling the keys out, the ignition lights still stayed on but longer than usual (was about a minute previously). I also noticed that I had bumped the turbo time switch to 5 from 1 minute. Went through the key in/out routine again, timing the ignition lights this time they matched the turbo timer switch position.

With the turbo timer now removed the ignition switch and lights appear to function correctly.

So the state of play ATM is that the car will not crank (or logically fire) using the key. When moving the key to the start position, the fan drops off and a relay (?) can be heard operating under the dash. It will however crank (but not fire) when I hot-wire the starter motor. Does this indicated immobiliser issues ??

[DiscoMick]

I remember at one stage the switch on the auto in our D1 which prevented it starting unless in Park failed and the vehicle would crank, but not fire. Not sure if that is related to your problem.

[pop058]

Another clue (if it helps at all) is that the car locks and unlocks using the remote on the key.

[eckolsim]

Have you checked the inertia switch on the firewall in the engine bay? A simple press on the top will tell you if it’s been tripped.

[RobMichelle]

Before you removed turbo timer,with key on did you push the red button then try to start, although now it's removed the point is probly mute.

[pop058]

Have you checked the inertia switch on the firewall in the engine bay? A simple press on the top will tell you if it’s been tripped.

Yep, one of the first things I tried.

[pop058]

Before you removed turbo timer,with key on did you push the red button then try to start, although now it's removed the point is probly mute.

Tried all 3 switch position (1, 3 and 5 mins) and the stop button in every possible combination I could think off.

[RobMichelle]

Mmm fuel pump making noises pop058

[RobMichelle]

Same results in neutral and park as discomick was hinting at

[pop058]

Mmm fuel pump making noises pop058

It does not crank with the key (will crank when I hot wire the starter though), and wont fire with either method. It does have a new fuel pump fitted.

It was actually driven to an auto electrician to investigate the wipers not working and would not restart from there.

I am learning toward XYZ switch.??

[RobMichelle]

Did auto elec pull anything apart then issue occurred?

[pop058]

Did auto elec pull anything apart then issue occurred?

Only covers I am told before he attempted to move the car and it would not start. I think frustration set in (the bloody land rovers syndrome ). I then made the call to tilt tray back to my shed before it cost me more $$ for no gain.

[RobMichelle]

Only covers I am told before he attempted to move the car and it would not start. I think frustration set in (the bloody land rovers syndrome ). I then made the call to tilt tray back to my shed before it cost me more $$ for no gain.Bugger, co-incidences hey.
I would be looking at ignition or wire to starter area.
On ya wipers if ya twist slowly back and forth normally gets an going, good link in here some where in pulling switch apart and re Vaseline switch.not much good till ya get it going thou. I know the space terminal gives grief On to starter motor maybe wire is broken there ?

[RobMichelle]

Does nanocom show anything if available up there

[pop058]

Does nanocom show anything if available up there

Looking at getting one [smilebigeye]. only just stepped up to D2s

[pop058]

Bugger, co-incidences hey.
I would be looking at ignition or wire to starter area.
On ya wipers if ya twist slowly back and forth normally gets an going, good link in here some where in pulling switch apart and re Vaseline switch.not much good till ya get it going thou. I know the space terminal gives grief On to starter motor maybe wire is broken there ?

I have a piggy back plug/wire on the starter and can make it crank with that. It still will not fire that way either.

[pop058]

Update.

Plugged the new Nanocom in and had a play. Cleared faults in the auto and motor and something else I can not find again [bigsad].

Hit the key and it burst into life. Off and start a few more times and then let it idle for 5 minutes before a quick trip around the block. It seems a bit sluggish down low but this was only a test drive.

Pulled back into the shed and turned it off to do a bit of clean. 15 minutes later I went to put it away and the old issue was back. Cleared all the codes again with no luck.

So back to square 1, but with a bit more info this time.

[sierrafery]

For the problem described in the first post/title nanocom is useless, corroborate post 2 with 3 and you might have the answer so IMO you should rule out the ignition switch

[pop058]

For the problem described in the first post nanocom is useless, corroborate post 2 with 3 and you might have the answer so IMO you should rule out the ignition switch

agreed [thumbsupbig]

[pop058]

It lives [thumbsupbig]

141408 141409

Not sure what actually got it running as I have cleaned everything I could think of, new battery, cleared faults with the new Nanocom (which is great [thumbsupbig] ) and probably a few other things I cannot recall ATM.

I wound up not touching the XYZ switch for a couple of reasons. 1, the auto was rebuilt/replaced late last year and I thought (right or wrong) that the switch would have be setup correctly then and 2, a function in the Nanocom shows the state (open or closed) of the W, X, Y & Z switches and these all changed as I cycled through the gear positions. The indicators on the console and dash also changed.

Happy camper for now but time will tell I suppose. [bigsmile1]