Will she take it? - Another question added.

[Ace]

Hi guys, as most of you know i am doing up the series II as a 4wd weekend toy. I am toying with the idea of dropping a 3.5L rover v8 into it and selling the 2.25L Petrol engine it came with. My question is how will the drive train go handling the extra power? I am going to head off road and snap something the minute the terrain gets tough or will the gearbox/TC/Diffs etc be up to the task. There are planty of rover v8's out there so getting parts will be easier and it will most likely end up being cheaper, not to mention the economy probably wont be much different.

It will be a while before i get to it but want to start planning these things now. Matt

[Phoenix]

You will snap axles.

If you want to make a 4wd beast out of it you are better off putting a saulsbury under the rear end at the least.

I know that the series 3 gearbox can be killed be a holden 6, but that's not as strong as a series 2 box.

[Ace]

Originally posted by Phoenix
You will snap axles.

If you want to make a 4wd beast out of it you are better off putting a saulsbury under the rear end at the least.

I know that the series 3 gearbox can be killed be a holden 6, but that's not as strong as a series 2 box.

No worries thanks pheeny. Can you get maxis and lockers for the series diffs? Matt

[Reads90]

Can be done. The V8 will fit into a seris easy. But put Rangie diffs in as they will make it go better and they are the week point of the axel. Shalfs are the same so will fit. As long as you get a 10 spline rangie diff.
The seris 2 box is stronger than the seris 3 box so this is always the weapon of choice for this.
And remeber to get a remote oil filter or you will rip of the oil filter on the diff on the first trip out https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[crump]

I've been asking myself this same question for years, but so far they've all managed and no complaints. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[DaveS3]

Yes you can get lockers for series diffs.

Best option - 3.5 and 4 speed (LT95) easy to come by and strong, just replace the lot.

As for diffs, dont bother with a RR rear, just use a sals. Try and find a 24spline series one, will bolt in but the pinion is 2 inches longer, so either redrill the pearches to push it back or shorten the shaft. I'd try to push it back, then you have 90' WB and the wheel sits central in the rear guard if you have a tub (Looks HEAPS better)

For front, I would use Stage 1 front. CV's are stronger than RR. Diffs are 10spline but I have some 24/23spline custom axles that I will be getting rid of at some point :wink: That way you can use a 24spline diff (=stronger)

The only problem with this is that you are limited to drums. You can modify for disks but it is tricky. With stage one front is relatively easy as you can use RR hubs as the spindle use the same bearings 8)

I think Popeye has this sussed.

This is where you look at the project and say - well if im gong to do all this work, I still have Drums and Leafs - I may as well buy a flogged Rangie and place my series body on it https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ Hybrid.

Anyway - its doable.

PS - Shoot over to OL and look at Slunnies Project, he has done the 3.5 and 4 speed converion amoungst other things.

Dave

[incisor]

this is a swb he is talking about is it not?

rear diff replacements mean shifting the spring pads.... they are at different centers on a swb as there are no outriggers...

screw the v8 put a 200tdi in it https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[disco95]

I reckon I'd go Incisors route, go the diesel https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[DaveS3]

Originally posted by incisor
this is a swb he is talking about is it not?

rear diff replacements mean shifting the spring pads.... they are at different centers on a swb as there are no outriggers...

screw the v8 put a 200tdi in it https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

If he is going to fit the V8 and Box in, then changing 2 spring pads on a rear diff and redrilling the spring pads forwards is only a few hours work.

4BD1T 8)

[modman]

i had a 4.4 with a series 2/3 (bits of both) box in a game for a while.
went like the clappers but there isn't enough spread in the gears to take advantage of the v8 torque.
tdi is too expensive to buy compared with rover 8.
In a light truck (read shortie series) 3.5/3.9 with 4 speed auto would be very drivable
all motor options can break series diffs and gearboxes when you get traction.
i would like rover 8, 4 speed auto,lt230 on 60 series diffs spoa on 60 series rear leafs all round.(slot in some haultech cv's :wink: )
cheap junkyard trash and mods most people can do under a carport.
david

[LandyAndy]

Go the V8 Ace 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
I could be talked into selling a ford C4 auto and rebuilt unused transfercase,mine is a cleveland C4 but 99.9% sure Windsor/Cleveland are the same transmission bolt pattern.
If you do go the ford V8 conversion go for a Windsor,the Cleveland is a tight fit.The Transfercase is more than tough enough,you will need a Sailsbury bum and preferably a stage 1 front diff (I havent got 1)and brakes(could sell some new brakes too)
Andrew

[modman]

if the above v8 offer uses a series transfer thats not a bad option.
i know a few guys with 8's (chevs and rovers) using series transfers, they're as strong as hell.
david

[isuzu110]

Met a guy on the weekend with a IIA and a 3.5 Rover engine. A daily driver to and from his work. Had higher ratio diffs. Said he had never broken anything in the original gearbox nor driveline. Seemed like

Apparently this thing can go to 140 on the highway. Uprated the front drums to help it stop better.

[Slunnie]

Originally posted by DaveS3
Anyway - its doable.

PS - Shoot over to OL and look at Slunnies Project, he has done the 3.5 and 4 speed converion amoungst other things.

Dave
My site at www.slunnie.com is down at the moment - apparently the server had a melt down but it should be up again shortly.

Fitting a V8/LT95 SWB can be done, but its a lot of work. You'll need to move most Xmembers, cut the firewall, change to power steering, change diffs or at least diff ratios from 4.7 to 3.54 or similar. I ended up0 changing over to Landcruiser 60 4.1 diffs which are an easy fit being leaf sprung already (Hlux also),Brake MC needs to be changed to suit the axles, tailshafts are also needed - for me a rear Disco uni-uni shaft became the front and I had to push the rear axle further back to fit a rear in, using a Hilux DC front shaft which brought the wheelbase out to 100". Depending on the height you place the engine at, you may also need to alter the interior and mid/rear X member also if you want to keep it all behind the IIa front facia.

Perhaps if you put the V8 onto the IIa transmissions which are a lot shorter it may be ok, though possibly less reliable. (actually with all of the mods to run the LT95 it'd probably be more reliable!

[Ace]

Thanks for tha advice guys. I would love to drop a TDi in but as mentioned above the cost is far greater. A rover v8 can be had quite cheap, someone has already pm'd me offering me one for a good price. I want to go down this route because the driveability will be better, and converted to gas would be a suitable daily driver. It will also be a good weekend toy aswell.

If you put rangie diffs in, do you need to drop the box and tc from the rangie in aswell? would the rangie diffs mate up to the series II box and tc? and does putting the rangie diffs in mean you need to change suspension mounts to convert to coils?

Slunnie- what did you need to do to put the cruiser diffs in?


A ford v8 is a possibility but i want to keep the engine rover if possible, i would prefer to use rover running gear but if cruiser diffs will fit easier then its a possibility. Matt

[Slunnie]

I've put them in a bit funny, so may not be a true indication of what you need to do.

The front has gone in with the springs over the axle, which meant that I had to weld the top perches flat and then they just bolt in. Find U-bolts to suit and use the Landy plates redrilled. I have not done shocks yet. Hilux pinion flange machined to suit Rover tailshaft. You will need to use a Series 3 brake assembly to mount the LC master cylinder also which has a booster. Steering you could probably use the standard LC setup from the LR steering relay or use a full LC60 power steering setup with Rover PAS pump on the V8, though as I'm sprung over I did a X-over setup using hilux parts.

For the rear, I did a full coil setup using my own lower links to the front spring perches on the chassis and a RR A frame on top. Setup normally the LC axle should go in with new perches, though the diff pumpkin may get in the way of the chassis a little. The Landy chassis lines up just at the front but is narrower than the flared Toyota axles in the rear. You will also need to run a hilux pinion flange on the diff which has been machined to suit the Rover tailshaft.

The axles will be pretty wide for the series body and the tyres will stick outside the guards, so setup normally you will also need to trim the guards back to suit.

[Slunnie]

Just reading your other thread ACE, this will also get rid of the single circuit brake system, into a duel setup using LC60 axles - though still not as good as the more common 3 and increasingly 4 circuit brakes.

[Ace]

Thanks slunnie. Did you ever think of dropping the running gear from an old rangie into the SII? Or did you do down that line only to fund it was to difficult and the cruiser option was best? Matt

[DaveS3]

The cruiser option is by far the strongest (and able to be upgraded for similar $$ to rover) and probably a similar price to by intially.

[Slunnie]

Didn't even consider the Rangie stuff, its too weak. Initially I went for Hilux gear for strength, width and gearing for oversized tyres, then changed over to LC60 axles for more strength and extra width. The LC axles also had more suitable gearing which brought me back to standard gearing (for the speedo) on 37" tyres.

Looking at it now, I think it would be more mucking around trying to fit waeker Rangie axles to a series body than LC axles. The Rangie gear is all coil and linked setup, whereas the LC stuff is already setup for leaf suspension - the front perches with LC60's and Hiluxs are already very very close to the IIa's and the axle will bolt straight in.

[Ace]

Thanks for the help slunnie, i will have to drop in eventually and see how you have set yours up because by the sound of it i want to build something similar. Matt

[Ace]

I have been thinking some more on the topic and was wondering how a 3.8L V6 commodore engine from a VN or newer would go. Has anyone done this or know anyone who has? Would it bolt up to the gearbox etc? Matt

[DaveS3]

What autos do they come with? TH700 or similar? Probably easier to use that then adapt a TC.
Maybe use a GQ Nissan case, 2WD 8) and 60 series diffs would be cool as.
Should have similar power or more to the 3.5, and you can add a charger to it pretty cheaply if you needed more 8)

[Ace]

Originally posted by DaveS3
What autos do they come with? TH700 or similar? Probably easier to use that then adapt a TC.
Maybe use a GQ Nissan case, 2WD 8) and 60 series diffs would be cool as.
Should have similar power or more to the 3.5, and you can add a charger to it pretty cheaply if you needed more 8)

I was thinking more about the fuel economy, the power is just a bonus. Will have to look into it. Matt

[OldDog]

G'day Ace, I've been thinking of doing the same, either a v6 or v8 and adapt up the th700 to the landrover transfer case like landyandy has done. If you have a quick browse through ebay you can pick up a cheap vn complete so that you can get all the stuff needed for the transplant....dash etc. You'd still need to do something with the diffs though, maybe Salsbury? Although the HJ75 toymota diffs are plenty tough.

Are you planning to register this puppy? If so have you spoken to the rta? Just curious about whats needed to rego something like this.

Catchya
Bill

[idletorque]

Ace,

Here's something to consider..... :wink:

There's a complete, unregistered Series 3 Stage 1 V8 Table Top sitting in need of a new home at the wreckers on the Northern Road, Londonderry. For $1500, you'd have all the bits you need and none of the worries. Well, you would hope so anyway! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Oh, one thing to look out for is the short propshaft. A Salsbury in a SWB means a very short propshaft and you need special wide yoke unis, or cvs to make it work. I know from doing it years ago myself.

Good luck!

[DaveS3]

Originally posted by idletorque
Ace,

Here's something to consider..... :wink:

There's a complete, unregistered Series 3 Stage 1 V8 Table Top sitting in need of a new home at the wreckers on the Northern Road, Londonderry. For $1500, you'd have all the bits you need and none of the worries. Well, you would hope so anyway! :)

Oh, one thing to look out for is the short propshaft. A Salsbury in a SWB means a very short propshaft and you need special wide yoke unis, or cvs to make it work. I know from doing it years ago myself.

Good luck!

Why?
Theres only two inches difference in the pinion length?
When you re mount the spring pads, drill them 2 inches forwar to move the diff back, and set the pinion angle up correctly.
This gives 90' wheelbase and a standard shaft.