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View Full Version : TDV6 2010 Viscous Fan Issue



Herbie53
21st April 2018, 04:44 PM
Hi.

Finally putting out a post for help as i'm stumped.

Both the wife and I have 2010 Disco 4's and most of the time it makes fault finding and part substitute procedures easy, however I've been struggling with my fan.

I had an almost overheat while towing a trailer up the freeway out of ADL but managed to bring the whole transport system to a halt to save my engine.

I have done as much as I can to try and sort out the fan but would really appreciate some experience or help with this matter.

This is what has happened / been done to date:
1) Snap-on scanner - Fan 2 circuit low fault code
2) As normal (I think) the fan comes on for a few seconds when the car starts up but then only free spools even when getting hot you can always stop it by hand
3)Swapped out my fan with my wife's car - the fan works perfectly in hers and her fan also does not work in my car.
4)Swapped and changed the temp sensors, relays and 40amp fuses
All the components from my car works in her car and all the components from her car still doesn't get the fan kicking in when installed in my car.

If anyone has any advise, please help.

Cheers

Globetrotter
22nd April 2018, 05:13 PM
When you swapped fan, did you swap all bits, that is the electrical part as well

Ean Austral
22nd April 2018, 05:52 PM
It seems as tho you have an electrical issue , I am no expert but I can only assume the signal from the ECU is not telling the fan to start.

I am guessing there must be some sort of solenoid set-up to activate the fan but that is just a guess.

I know the fan is just a plug in when swapping over , so if your fan and a different fan work in another car , then it would seem as tho there is no power getting to the plug to activate the fan. Is the 40 amp fuse you speak of the fan fuse ? I don't have access to a wiring diagram but it would be good to see how its wired up. Is there a separate fuse , maybe behind the glove box...

Cheers Ean

Maharba
22nd April 2018, 08:12 PM
I'm having a similar issue with my D3. Overheating but only under load at low speeds.
My mechanic said it was the radiator partially blocked but this sounds more likely.
What do you think?

Tombie
23rd April 2018, 10:12 AM
I'm having a similar issue with my D3. Overheating but only under load at low speeds.
My mechanic said it was the radiator partially blocked but this sounds more likely.
What do you think?

I think it’s possible. But far less likely than a radiator blockage.

When was the last time your cooling system was flushed?

Maharba
23rd April 2018, 07:54 PM
I think it’s possible. But far less likely than a radiator blockage.

When was the last time your cooling system was flushed?Never in my ownership.

Can it be flushed without removing the radiator?

DiscoJeffster
23rd April 2018, 08:13 PM
If it is truly overheating due to blockages in the radiator, nothing will help short of replacement. Once upon a time you’d unsolder the end caps on a metal rad, but the plastic end cap ones aren’t generally repaired, only replaced. As you need to remove the end caps to ‘rod out’ the muck, replacement is the only viable option. None of the cleaners will fix it if it’s at the point of causing overheating I can assure you.
Personally I doubt it’s a blocked rad. The original coolant will still be in check at this age for the vehicle and is very unlikely to have formed sludge. You’ve already indicated that the fan is not mechanically performing as it should, being able to be stopped by hand even when overheated, correct? Normally it should be chopping off your fingers. You need to take it somewhere who knows what they’re doing, or start by checking the various electrical circuits to ensure the correct signals are being sent to the fan in my opinion.

Tombie
23rd April 2018, 08:40 PM
DiscoJeffster is spot on!

Although the coolant would be at the limits of age by now.

Herbie53
23rd April 2018, 09:03 PM
Thanks for the feedback.

I have changed all the posdible electrical bits and checked through the wiring diagram before posting for help.

I was suspecting that the ecu isn’t sending a signal to the fan to kick in, but really wanted to find out if anyone else have gone through or experienced or repaired this issue.

My next step is to try the battery cable reset and if that doesn’t work I’ll try the snap on scanner ecu / vehicale reset.

I’ll post any progress or changes

Ps - still open to any advice
Thanks

andeck
23rd April 2018, 11:33 PM
Hey mate. Some thoughts which you may have already checked. I had a quick look, perhaps try fuse 10e (10A) in engine junction box. Also check your fans ground wire.

Herbie53
24th April 2018, 09:04 AM
[bigsmile]

I have performed the "battery lead ECU reset" which I always thought was a bunch of BS because it has never resolved any issues on any of my other cars - well i'll be>>>>>>>

I still have the wife's car's (2010 TDV6 - white) fan in my(2010 TDV - Grey) and after reset procedure the fan is kicking in and out exactly as is was doing when i was running tests comparing the 2 cars.

Great news - and thanks to everyone who had some input.

I will keep posted if anything changes.

DiscoJeffster
24th April 2018, 10:06 AM
How very odd. I’ll be interested to see if it remains working correctly [emoji106]

andeck
24th April 2018, 10:29 AM
Nice one!! [emoji106]

Herbie53
10th May 2018, 01:05 PM
Well it was working great but a couple of days ago i ran up the freeway with my trailer - pushing a little and when I got close to the top of the hill the temp gauge started climbing.

I slowed down and the temp dropped quite quickly.

When I got home I left Old Sliver idling for a while to see if the fan kicks in to "second gear". After a few minutes it did but it sounded like a half-assed efford.

Another thing I noticed today while driving in cold conditions was that the heater that was set on 24* (A/C not on) started cooling down to the point where it was just blowing in outside air as if just the cabin fan was switched on. I turned the heat up to 27* and it started blowing very warm air and then turned down to 19* which is normally sufficient. All was OK for the rest of the 45min drive home.

Not sure if this is of any relevance???

I do have a new bottom thermostat that I bought a few months back to change over when the timing belt was done, I'll be changing this over soon and see if there is any difference.

If anyone has thoughts please share.

Cheers

andeck
12th May 2018, 07:22 PM
Was going to say maybe ambient air temp sensor fault, but you’ve checked codes.... [emoji848]