Half shaft splines

[Ricrose]

I have spent today stripping the front axle of my 64 shorty. I was really happy - until I pulled the short half shaft. For some reason the splines on both the shaft and drive flange were really flogged! The diff side were ‘perfect’ as well as the u joint. I can only think there was a lack of lube at some stage
My question - when I see the price of the shaft replacements- has anyone had new splines milled or is it possible to find reasonable second hand?
The drive flange is affordable, but not the shaft.
Thanks in advance.


I have just tried several times to attach a photo but been told ‘we’ have a problem.
Sorry

[gromit]

To get new splines machines you'd have to build up with weld first. An expensive solution.

Not too expensive from the UK.
Stub Axle Shaft - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/242520-stub-axle-shaft.html)

Just need to add a new universal joint and the seal collar Stub Axle Collar - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/599698-stub-axle-collar.html)

I could probably find secondhand ones for you but they will also need universal joints, seal collars and halfshaft bearings. Splines are OK but rust has got the better of any bearing or seal surfaces.



Colin

[goingbush]

I actually 'temp repaired' a flogged out 10 spline on a series 2 using Devcon ( JB weld ). I did thousands of miles on it and sold it on , telling the new owner about the bodge repair . He was a fellow club member had it for years of trouble free 4WDing.

something like this

Spline Shaft Repair (http://appliedmaintenance.com/spline-shaft-repair.html)

YouTube (https://youtu.be/nN8R0TrQOiA)

I have milling machine & ability to make a new spline , but don't have metallurgy skills to anneal the axle spline & re heat treat it after repair . As a field repair I would use JB again no problems. ( I don't think it would work for 24spline though)

[Ricrose]

Thanks guys - I had only seen the complete shaft for sale at +£300.
The Paddock solution seems where I am headed. While I have the whole thing apart I really don’t want to do anything I will have to revisit.

[gromit]

Thanks guys - I had only seen the complete shaft for sale at +£300.
The Paddock solution seems where I am headed. While I have the whole thing apart I really don’t want to do anything I will have to revisit.

For some reason Paddocks don't list the inner part of the shaft unless the part number changed (I'm using a Series II parts manual).

In my earlier post I listed the seal collar, I was having a blonde moment because this is on the stub axle......


Colin

[JDNSW]

Unusual for them to flog out in my experience - I wonder if it was running grease in the swivel?

[67hardtop]

I got some s3 fronts here maybe some s2a as well. S3 are 24 spline outers tho i think. Id have to unearth them to look[emoji16][emoji16]

[JDNSW]

I got some s3 fronts here maybe some s2a as well. S3 are 24 spline outers tho i think. Id have to unearth them to look[emoji16][emoji16]

Only long wheelbase, I think, except for late ones.

[Ricrose]

Hi Gromit
I have ordered from Paddock a couple of times and didn’t realise they had a whole catalogue not listed under the headings on their website. Didn’t really think that one through did I!
Thanks.

[gromit]

Hi Gromit
I have ordered from Paddock a couple of times and didn’t realise they had a whole catalogue not listed under the headings on their website. Didn’t really think that one through did I!
Thanks.

I found out by accident. Had a part number for something and typed it in and they had it but it didn't show up in the category for that product !


Colin

[Ricrose]

I have been blown away by the support shown by the members of the forum - thanks everyone.
Just one more query.
I am putting the diff centre back into the axle housing. I want to torque the bolts down onto the paper gasket ( I choose to use non hardening gasket maker). The question is what would you torque the nuts to? The manual doesn’t list it - the engineers table gives about 40 foot pounds for a 3/8 bolt.
Should I just do it to this or is there a list of torque values I’m missing?
Richard.

[gromit]

I don't know if torque figures exist.
I've always tightened in a sequence (like doing up head bolts) to pull it together evenly. Then tighten till I feel it's 'right'.
Problem is it takes years to develop the 'feel' and is difficult to explain.


Colin

[Ricrose]

Thanks Colin - as I thought. I’ll just use the engineers tables. It tends to give me an even tightening on a sequence of bolts.

[JDNSW]

I think Colin is right on the existence of torque figures. As far as I know, the only torque figures published for Series vehicles was the head bolts. For what it is worth, my 90/110 manual has seven pages of torque settings - but nothing for the diff centre into the axle housing, which would be the same as the Series.

[Ricrose]

Silly question time!
Later in the week I should have the bearings,seals and gaskets to put the rear axle together.
I took numerous photos, but none show the ‘direction’ of the brake backing plate. By that I mean does the adjusting snail face forward or to the rear? It may not make a difference, but I can’t take a chance. I can see if I get it wrong I will have to correct it four times!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/194.jpg

[Gordie]

Just did some work on the snail on my L/H rear wheel on 110 county the other day. It was positioned looking at it exactly as it is looking at your pic. (as if your backing plate in on the L/H rear axle. Not sure if series is same, but imagine so...someone else will know. 2x snails on mine btw.

[gromit]

Cam to the front.
The adjustment & spring is on the leading shoe.
The trailing shoe gets pushed away from the drum (in forward motion). The leading shoe, without a spring fitted, could jam on.


Colin

[Ricrose]

Thanks Gordie and Colin. That’s what I thought, but couldn’t afford to get it wrong.

[bemm52]

Silly question time!
Later in the week I should have the bearings,seals and gaskets to put the rear axle together.
I took numerous photos, but none show the ‘direction’ of the brake backing plate. By that I mean does the adjusting snail face forward or to the rear? It may not make a difference, but I can’t take a chance. I can see if I get it wrong I will have to correct it four times!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/194.jpg

I made the mistake my cam adjusters are to the rear on all four wheels😖


Car stops and passed roadworthy................but next time I'd get it right,found the manual very ambiguous as to backing plate orientation

What part of East Gippsland are you?

Cheers Paul

[Ricrose]

I have been equally puzzled.
Paul, I’m based in Metung, see you are Bemm River.

[Ricrose]

Hi there - I have read somewhere (can’t find it again) that when installing the stub axle the ‘slot’ through the threaded section is facing upwards.
I can’t see why, but if it is I may have put my back axle together incorrectly. If this is the case is it worth redoing?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180622/7ea2fd1a9cf411b95bcca82122b9e9e4.jpg

[JDNSW]

As far as I know, the only reason is so you can make sure the tabs are properly in the slot before doing up the nuts!

[Ricrose]

Thanks for that - I think I read that is was so that the lube dripped back- but I couldn’t work it out!
I guess I’ll be happy and leave it as it is.

[Cap]

I also wondered this and saw no reason why facing up is required. The back of the stub axle face mating to the swivel housing/or axle is plain, although i did read somewhere that later model series 3 have a change?

[JDNSW]

Late Series 3 stub axles changed, but that was to accommodate different bearings. Nothing to do with where it bolts to the axle housing.