Failure to Proceed

[terraaustralis]

Greetings.

2001 D2 Auto. TD5. 340,000+ kms. Improved reconditioned Auto four years ago. Probably less than 20,000 kms on the "new" auto-box.

This event has been occurring for the last 12 months - on and off- not every time. Some intermittent fault
An issue that has one stumped. Here is the situation: Turn on the engine - yes it idles as normal. Push the accelerator and no response. Absolutely none. Put it into gear and no progress forward or reverse though it seems to creep a few centimetres then stops. Turn off the engine and wait. Wait anything from 2 minutes to several hours (even the next day) and the beast awakens as normal and the automatic is fine. This can occur with a hot or cold engine. A lottery!!!
XYZ switch is good. Fuel regulator replaced. Airflow sensor replaced. (plus something else I can't remember at present).

Here's the killer - nothing appears on error code diagnosis.

The car has been under the watchful care of a seasoned independent Land Rover Specialist shop with all the knowledge and diagnostic tools needed.
Has anyone else experienced this?

Melbourne car.

Planning a Great Victoria Desert trip in August 2018. In the words of Ernst Shackleton: "Safe return - doubtful" (at present).

Suggestions most appreciated in advance.

[Roverlord off road spares]

"seasoned independent Land Rover Specialist shop with all the knowledge and diagnostic tools needed"
some times it might just be a case of taking somewhere else for a second opinion. It's happened before where experts couldn't find a problem and some one else has fixed it. Take it to a reputable Auto trans specialist .

[terraaustralis]

Yes. This is my next move.
Thanks

[twr7cx]

My D2a TD5 seems to do a bit of what your describing every now and then - maybe once a few months and has done for years now. I start the engine, and it just sounds a tad different, put it into drive and push the accelerator and it won't increase the revs of the engine, almost like the accelerator pedal is disconnected. I find if I coast out for a minute or turn off and back on it's immediately resolved. Sadly not in your car which would be frustrating.

[sierrafery]

For the described issue the TPS is very suspect, live data reading is needed from tracks 1 and 2 when the symptom occurs, if the first readings are good but they dont react to the throttle position there will be no code logged cos the ECU will "think" that there's no driver demand just idle.... if the readings are OK next call is the fuel pump

[terraaustralis]

For the described issue the TPS is very suspect, live data reading is needed from tracks 1 and 2 when the symptom occurs, if the first readings are good but they dont react to the throttle position there will be no code logged cos the ECU will "think" that there's no driver demand just idle.... if the readings are OK next call is the fuel pump

Does this - TPS - stand for "Totally and Permanently Stuffed"?

Error Code: Agreed! That the ECU is receiving "normal"signal - as it sees it. So, no error code appears. This pretty much rules out the ECU as the source.

I know the fuel pump is good.

Could it be the sensor on the Fuel Pressure Regulator? This I know as the FPR. (pretty sure I got that acronym right as I'm a bit of a Landie novice. Please forgive!))
This ( Ï am not letting you go" business) has only been occurring since the FPR was replaced earlier this year. I am not sure if the sensor was replaced at the same time or even checked at all? There might be a short or bad earth, perhaps? The car is 18 years old. Contact corrosion in the FPR sensor - would this be a possibility?

Should I just buy a new FPR sensor (or TPS thingie) and bung it in?

Much appreciated.

[gavinwibrow]

Does this - TPS - stand for "Totally and Permanently Stuffed"?

Error Code: Agreed! That the ECU is receiving "normal"signal - as it sees it. So, no error code appears. This pretty much rules out the ECU as the source.

I know the fuel pump is good.

Could it be the sensor on the Fuel Pressure Regulator? This I know as the FPR. (pretty sure I got that acronym right as I'm a bit of a Landie novice. Please forgive!))
This ( Ï am not letting you go" business) has only been occurring since the FPR was replaced earlier this year. I am not sure if the sensor was replaced at the same time or even checked at all? There might be a short or bad earth, perhaps? The car is 18 years old. Contact corrosion in the FPR sensor - would this be a possibility?

Should I just buy a new FPR sensor (or TPS thingie) and bung it in?

Much appreciated.


By now you will have found out that it is the Throttle Position Sensor being discussed.

and Sierrafery is one of our eminent gurus

[terraaustralis]

That's great. My list of acronyms is improving. Thank you for the Sierrafery lead.

[sierrafery]

The sensor in the FPR is for fuel temperature, it's easy to be ruled out, unplug it and if then the fault is gone you know to change it... albeit i doubt it could cause such symptom, i'd replace the TPS if i was you

[rangieman]

By now you will have found out that it is the Throttle Position Sensor being discussed.

and Sierrafery is one of our eminent gurus
And for the uneducated Throttle Position Sensor is your Accelerator pedal = Drive by wire[wink11]

[terraaustralis]

Many thanks Sierrafery.

My LR D2 education is on the improve. I need to make myself a Glossary or as I once saw on a delightful Korean Restaurant menu - a "Grocery".

I'm going the TPS route first with a 2nd hand item (experimentation). Do I really need a new one (new price is a bit staggering).

I have found an old AULRO thread using a GM part and an adaptor. Are these still available anywhere?

My repair skills usually result in self-inflicted injury of one sort or another and hideously abused parts - but I'll give it a go. For obvious reasons, I have an excellent first aid kit!

[sierrafery]

A confirmed working second hand is good enough IMO, especially that it's not 100% the reason just very suspect

[Pippin]

A confirmed working second hand is good enough IMO, especially that it's not 100% the reason just very suspect
Is it a two or three pot TPS on that year?

[sierrafery]

That 2 - 3 track thing is subject of setting with tester so as long as there's no alteration in the ECU setting it's not an issue... anyway 2001 was the transition year from Eu2 to Eu3 so depends on what setup it is cos it can be one of both

[terraaustralis]

No idea.

But I can tell you it is a 2001 TD5 (mid year I think?). I don't have the VIN number with me. The car and I are separated by many thousands of kms. I will have to wait until I get back to Melbourne. Just love my D2!! Gradually improving its mechanicals.

Yes, I probably need to grow a third arm.

An additional question: Is installing a Madman worth it?

[discorevy]

faulty injector washers can give those symptoms
2 pot to 3 pot was toward the end of 2001 ( 2002 my )

[terraaustralis]

An update on symptoms:

Is the following the final decider as to the cause of my failure actually being the TPS?

Started D2. Reversed approximately 10m down the driveway. Stopped for traffic. Obviously foot off accelerator and foot on brake. All clear. Foot off brake and on the accelerator. Nothing happens - just sits on idle as if in neutral. Wait for 2 minutes in Neutral with the engine running. Back into Drive and forward we go. Then reverse - no problems for the rest of the day. No hesitation while running nor accelerating. Another good day. Tomorrow? Another Lotto, perchance. In addition, I am positive I am not being visited by a poltergeist.
Does this conclusively (+/- 5% = possible poltergeist) identify the TPS as the evil villain?