Paint [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

DoubleChevron

10th July 2018, 03:45 PM

Hi Guys,

has anyone painted there car in recent times? I haven't painted a car in probably 8years..... so am out of touch with what the latest coatings are. I'm going to have to treat the old ****box to a splash of paint in the near future. Its some hideous faded blue at the moment (I've never been a fan of pale metalic blues and greens ......... that look sun damaged and faded from the factory).

Is there any decent "budget" priced paints around at the moment. I seem to recall Protec was ok. The car is used, not a museum/garage princess so I'm not interested in exotic finishes.

I'll probably just go a closed door paint job. it should only be a few weekends work I imagine.

this is the last closed door quickie I painted:

[IMG]http://shanescitshed.com/xm/xm_bodywork/new_paint/p1000637.jpg

http://shanescitshed.com/xm/xm_bodywork/new_paint/p1000644.jpg

http://shanescitshed.com/xm/xm_bodywork/new_paint/p1000647.jpg

they come up quite nice if you put a bit of effort into the prep. this one was PPG clear and PPG Cobra base coat. I was hoping to find something a bit cheaper given the cars usage.

http://shanescitshed.com/xm/xm_bodywork/new_paint/p1000659.jpg

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar

10th July 2018, 04:57 PM

Personally I wouldn't use Protec paints if they were the last company on earth as we used to use their paint exclusively at work - after corporate did a study on why machines were being painted so often they came to the conclusion we all knew to start with - the paint was garbage. Not sure if they have a budget range and a premium range but once bitten...

350RRC

10th July 2018, 07:46 PM

DoubleChevron

10th July 2018, 08:29 PM

I've noticed Protec are hooked up with Dulon (acrylic), which I've used for 40 years (embarrassing) with great success.

Dunno what type of paint they were supplying your company Gav.

The most important thing if acrylic is used is to gradually blend in a high quality clear with each coat, with STRONG UV inhibitors, with solid colours. Metallics just need it on top.

Acrylic is so easy to use.

DL

I've started using urethanes. I found the the old acrylic dulon didn't last very long (bird ****, sun ... everything damages it :( ). It sure is easy to touch up though! Metalics suck for ease of repair. Maybe I should find a "flat" blue of some sort and hit it with some "single shot" 2part urethane (ie: base and clear in one). I'll have a look around the bodywork forums and see what they think.

If I make it look to nice .... and spend to much money on it .... It'll really annoy me the next time it does something like rub against the scenery .... Or fall on its side [bighmmm]

Homestar

10th July 2018, 09:37 PM

I've noticed Protec are hooked up with Dulon (acrylic), which I've used for 40 years (embarrassing) with great success.

Dunno what type of paint they were supplying your company Gav.

DL

I've got a mate that ran a spray booth big enough to fit a semi in (Literally) and has used almost every brand and type of paint - don't ask him about Protec, his opinion is worse than mine. UV protection in their paint is almost non existant. It's not an issue any more as we don't use it now. It's coverage is also terrible.

350RRC

10th July 2018, 09:54 PM

I'll use Dulon next time the POS gets a makeover.

DL

DoubleChevron

10th July 2018, 10:07 PM

I'll use Dulon next time the POS gets a makeover.

DL

absolutely spectacular finish ... glass like if you colour sand it.

http://shanescitshed.com/cx2500/paintcx/f4.jpg

http://shanescitshed.com/cx2500/paintcx/f7.jpg

This is hand sanded and polished Dulon with PPG clearcoat (acrylic) over the top. I painted it about 15years ago. It still look ok ... until you look closely. Within 4 years it was quite stained where tree sap and bird **** had touched it (I did colour sand it again a few times to bring the finish back). Its also very soft and easily damaged.

But hey .... I've had a car that looks ok for 15years now (rather than clearcoat pealing off in sheets). It also only cost me about $500 all up to paint the thing at the time ( Oneday I will have some money to spend to do something nicely ............... Maybe in another 20years :( ).

I was hoping the world had moved on a bit from Acrylic laquer. I know its illegal in a lot of countries these days due (due to the VOC's and overspray). It must still be available here though. Its actually best for the home tinkerer.... as anything with an activator is horrendously toxic.... Really, far to poisonous to even dream of using (I have an air fed mask I feed from a compressor running where there is no overspray. You also have to wear painters goggles, and cover every bit of exposed skin). I have also noticed 2pack (activated) paints make me feel really crook in the guts if I'm around them while they are curing ... ""or "gassing offf" ... this can take a couple of weeks. Even POR hardnose made me feel crook in the guts to use (it is activated). Hardeners are really nasty stuff.

Hmmm... I've almost convinced myself to use Dulon again [bighmmm]

seeya,
shane L.

Mercguy

10th July 2018, 10:19 PM

DoubleChevron

10th July 2018, 10:50 PM

Killrust epoxy enamel in rattle cans. [biggrin]

Why bother spending more than you really have to on the POS?

If you want to thin it down and use stuff in the tin, dulux metalshield or killrust pretty much cheapest way to go for a rock-hard protective finish.

or thinned down u-pol (bedliner)

Well... If I use something a little better..... The car should look quite nice.... But not too nice. I dont' want it to look to much of a ****box or it'll start to attract police attention (boss women is getting to the point where she doesn't want to get into it).

I've just found this one ...

https://ccmarketplace.azureedge.net/cc-temp/listing/110/7010/12441567-1982-land-rover-range-rover-srcset-xl.jpg

1982 Land Rover Range Rover for Sale | ClassicCars.com | CC-1107010 (https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1107010/1982-land-rover-range-rover-for-sale-in-jupiter-florida-33478)

tuscan blue .... that looks to be a nice flat non-metalic colour. Way nicer than "faded pale blue metalic" most early 90's classics seem to be.

seeya,
Shane L.

350RRC

11th July 2018, 11:34 AM

absolutely spectacular finish ... glass like if you colour sand it............

...................I was hoping the world had moved on a bit from Acrylic laquer. I know its illegal in a lot of countries these days due (due to the VOC's and overspray). It must still be available here though. Its actually best for the home tinkerer.... as anything with an activator is horrendously toxic.... Really, far to poisonous to even dream of using (I have an air fed mask I feed from a compressor running where there is no overspray. You also have to wear painters goggles, and cover every bit of exposed skin). I have also noticed 2pack (activated) paints make me feel really crook in the guts if I'm around them while they are curing ... ""or "gassing offf" ... this can take a couple of weeks. Even POR hardnose made me feel crook in the guts to use (it is activated). Hardeners are really nasty stuff.

Hmmm... I've almost convinced myself to use Dulon again [bighmmm]

seeya,
shane L.

I think I recall the stuff I used having something like 26% lead solids, which is ok with me using the correct PPE. Still got some cans somewhere, I'll have a look.

Was mostly used on surfboards and windsurfers, under or over glass. No fade.

cheers, DL

Baggy

12th July 2018, 02:13 AM

DoubleChevron

12th July 2018, 11:15 AM

Shane,

Stick with Acrylic ...its easy to work with and as you have stated the key is prep work.

I believe Acrylics do need a couple of weeks for the paint to actually harden properly .... my brother was a manager of Dulux and they did a lot of testing of their paints.

Like you Rangie my 2Dr was looking a bit rough so I did a quick one weekend respray outside in a yard at a mates factory.

Didn't have a lot of time to concentrate on the prep ...body is straight and by the time we finished masking we were spraying in the late afternoon with the temperature dropping .... not
good however the results speak for itself.

Still turned out OK .... that was in 2014 .... paint hasn't suffered too much although my baby is gathering dust under a carport awaiting an engine rebuild [bigsad]

Cheers

Baggy

That brings back memories ... that is a very similar red to the first car I painted. The flat colours such as that seem to last better (well the bird **** and tree sap stains don't show as much either way). The paint actually discolours and blisters under bird **** and sap. If you paint that acrylic paint when its too cold, it goes on cloudy (guess how I know this [bighmmm] ). Weirdly it sands away once its cured enough though.

seeya,
Shane L.

Baggy

12th July 2018, 07:23 PM

DoubleChevron

12th July 2018, 07:32 PM

Hi Shane

Yes the clear in the paint can discolour or become cloudy due to cold and moisture in the air.

It took longer than expected to mask vehicle as we had to drive it to my mates place before we could remove lights etc

We then had a problem with spray gun and had to go and purchase new one

Murphy's Law ...what started as a good idea ....just a quick spray and tidy up became a full on production number.

Got there in the end although the only thing that annoys me is a slight dent (tow ball into taikgate) that I didn't repair because it was a quick blow over to look reasonable .... It's the only dent in a very straight body.

You'ld remember the old enamel paint .... Beautiful shine from outset except for the orange peel pattern in paint ...drying time .... and becoming powdery when old.

Memories .....

Baggy

Oh yes... emanel. Only once, my grandfather helped me paint my first car. I thought I'd done a really good job at repairing the hail damage ........ My grandfather said "no it all needs to be done again".... But I insisted it was really good.............. Yep, my grandfather sure does know his stuff. The repaired hail damage stood out like dogs balls as soon as that shiny enamel went on (well I couldn't really afford anything but enamel when I was 16). Sadly I'm now in my early 40's and still can't afford to paint my $800 ****box properly either [bighmmm] Maybe when I'm in my 60's .............. [bigsmile1] 'cos no dbout the old rangie will be sitting in the shed lined up beside all my other old ****boxes (most likely covered in mud with something swinging from its towbar still)

Yes, I think I'll go acrylic dulon. That will allow for the simplest repairs. If I buy some tuscan blue, I can also paint it one panel at a time and fit them to the car as I go (knowing me it'll take a couple of years to get it done). I'm not sure how I'm going to get all this stuff done. I need to repair the rangie as it's the only fully registered car I have... I'm halfway through throwing up a leanto on the shed. We are trying to extend the house (no I'm not doing it myself.... I just want to be able to walk into it finished... otherwise it'll never get done).... And I still have the 4 club permit cars, all of which need work (I'm hoping to get the Traction gearbox rebuilt this winter for starters).

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar

12th July 2018, 09:51 PM

Here you go Shane - problem solved! 👍😆

https://youtu.be/F5i7FynEvWA

DoubleChevron

12th July 2018, 10:09 PM

Here you go Shane - problem solved! 👍😆

https://youtu.be/F5i7FynEvWA

bloody hell...... "Look how good it came out" ..... bloody shockers or what. You know what ..... They are happy with it .... So good on them :) Its certainly not for me though (look at the time they saved not masking anything!).

seeya
Shane L.

Homestar

13th July 2018, 08:48 AM

Yeah, was laughing hard while watching it - can't believe anyone would think that looked good, the primer looked better.

jsp

17th July 2018, 06:37 PM

DoubleChevron

17th July 2018, 07:43 PM

I am in the process of experimenting with an 87 classic which has dents and scrapes on every panel and ANYTHING I do to it will improve it. Just doing the bonnet to work out if its a skill I can learn or not as I have a few cars I would love to repaint in the long run, and I have always wanted a Tuscan blue two door so one I am thinking of making a white one blue...... The more I read online and watch on youtube the more confusing it all gets, so many options and methods and different types of products.

All I know its lots of sanding and lots of refilling the few little bits so far and then I put a bit of primer on and think man look at all the little bits I missed - start again!

142369

Forget what you can see.... You need to go by touch. You will soon learn if its straight by running your hand over it. If its not perfect, you ***will*** be able to tell. I enjoy painting and tinkering with my own junk. That primer you are using is crap. I can see the repairs through it. If you want to use a cheap acrylic primer. Find some Hichem super etch epoxy primer. You can buy it in pressure packs if you don't want ot clean a gun when you just doing small repairs. I'm guessing its based on an industrial paint. It is the best single part primer I've ever used and seems to stick to anything.

SUPER ETCH PRIMER GREY 4L EPOXY METAL NEW MILD STEEL HICHEM SPRAY PAINT 9315744002328 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPER-ETCH-PRIMER-GREY-4L-EPOXY-METAL-NEW-MILD-STEEL-HICHEM-SPRAY-PAINT/142735734274?epid=600185150&hash=item213bb67602%3Ag%3AZdkAAOSw3mpXMr0u&_sacat=0&_nkw=hichem+epoxy&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0%7C0)

this stuff. Just get it from your local auto-paint store. ebay is to expensive with postage.

seeya
Shane L.

bblaze

17th July 2018, 09:59 PM

Over any repairs I make, I brush on a couple of coates of primer filler and then sand that back off. Covers a lot of imperfections
cheers
blaze

DoubleChevron

17th July 2018, 10:11 PM

Over any repairs I make, I brush on a couple of coates of primer filler and then sand that back off. Covers a lot of imperfections
cheers
blaze

Yeah, if you look it appears the primer he is using is reacting to the existing paint where he's feathered it around the repairs. I hope he's got a speed sander or he'll never get it straight :)

seeya,
shane l.

jsp

17th July 2018, 10:33 PM

DoubleChevron

17th July 2018, 10:49 PM

a few light coats of primer since then then two coats of putty stuff, and am needing some bits and bobs for sanding so its all on hold until the weekend.

I just didn't want to spray it on to thick to fast in case of runs. I'm almost through all my assorted cans of stuff I have accumulated over the years for small projects so will invest in a few tins of semi decent stuff.

I have no expectation of results as good as you guys have posted :) its all a learning experience at this stage :)

I can afford paint and stuff, but I cant afford the $4500 for a cheap paint job last time I had a classic done about 15 years ago so its probably heaps more now.

What are you using to sand it ? I find the only way I can get anything straight is with a speed file.

HAND SPEED FILE BLOCK SANDING BOARD 17" PANEL AUTO CAR DENT BOG SPEEDFILE 619775315631 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HAND-SPEED-FILE-BLOCK-SANDING-BOARD-17-PANEL-AUTO-CAR-DENT-BOG-SPEEDFILE/142250759795?epid=2154915664&hash=item211ece5673%3Ag%3AapkAAOSw9GhYgE5P&_nkw=speed+file&rt=nc)

something like this. You need to sand from every direction. if you do just one it'll never be level. You need ****loads of paper. Estimate have much you need, then buy 10 times as much when you get to the paint shop :)

seeya,
Shane L.

jsp

18th July 2018, 08:48 AM

DoubleChevron

18th July 2018, 09:31 AM

Combination of an orbital with 120 and 240, and then one of those blocks with 1200 and some scotch brite type stuff for in the corners around the castellations etc.

Probably all the wrong stuff :) just what I have on hand at the moment to see what happens

Should have just hit it Mr bean style with a tin of paint and TNT

If it is already perfectly straight, and your careful not to dig holes (ie: sand in one spot) for too long that will be fine. D/A's would be safer. Its really easy to dig a hole with an orbital sander.

if you have done any filler work. You must get one of the speed file sanders like I linked. You will never get it straight otherwise ( guess how I know ...... [bighmmm] ).

Do you have any mates that have done panel work in the past that can run there hand over it for you (this is all you need. You'll be mightily ****ed with them when they say "try again" for the fifteenth time though [bigrolf] ).

seeya
Shane L.

bblaze

18th July 2018, 05:05 PM

jsp

18th July 2018, 09:08 PM

Another trick is to put a very light coat and rub it back with 600 and a block, do it wet and only a light rub, Now wash it off annd any low spots wil have color and the rest will be primer
cheers
blaze

Yeah that's what I've done with the blue spray putty vs grey primer.

At least anything will be better than the black hand painted range rover lettering and the gaffer tape over a hole then sprayed gold to try blend it into beige factory colour

DoubleChevron

19th July 2018, 09:07 AM

Another trick is to put a very light coat and rub it back with 600 and a block, do it wet and only a light rub, Now wash it off annd any low spots wil have color and the rest will be primer
cheers
blaze

That will not remove dents and ripples though ... Only small marks (eg: upto maybe the size of a 5cent piece ). You need to use a long board for the panel to look straight if your repairing areas that were damaged :) Having said that, I'm sure the professionals can do the shaping of a repair with a D/A sander and get it better than me [bighmmm] ....

btw: years ago ... I did a thread on painting the red car over on aussiefrogs. ... Quick paint job anyone ???? (http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/31943-quick-paint-job-anyone.html) pretty much everythign I say there is still relevant (other than I'm not stuck with only one car now, and can drive the club permit cars if I want).

Quick paint job anyone ???? (http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/31943-quick-paint-job-anyone.html)

I reckon that quick splash of paint .... I would have put $650'ish into and probably 60hours labour.

seeya,
Shane L.

Baggy

25th July 2018, 06:47 PM

DoubleChevron

25th July 2018, 08:53 PM

My brother and I have been painting cars as a hobby for lets see for ..... 40 years ... off and on.

One of those speed sanding board Shane suggested is the way to go in combination with an flat orbital sander and a hand sanding block (cork) and
work from all directions as he's suggested.

The sanding board base (length) allows you in most instances to bridge in all directions the dent that's been filled and allow the sanding board
to wear down the filler to correct height by using the profile of the panel.

Then use knifing putty to fill any small scratches and remove with wet and dry sand paper and a bucket of water.

Shane's photo's of his Peugeot .... you'd have to be happy if you get the results he has achieved [biggrin]

Baggy

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif

Wow your good at **** stiring ..... And I'm not biting :D ..... (bloody poogoe indead ..... :bat:).

seeya,
Shane L.

jsp

26th July 2018, 01:22 PM

142604

Well no nice mirror glass finish like you have on the Citroen ;) I'm honest with myself I don't have the patience or time at the moment. And from now on I think I will stick to solid colours no metalics :)

I'm happy with the result of maybe 6-8 hours work and $120 worth of rattle can stuff. had to get the car back on the road also as have done wheel bearings on my daily drive :(

At least now I don't feel like a target for the police to pull me over and ask what the gaffa tapes all about! And most of the rust is out of the bonnet.

The colour match is a bit off and could have used another coat but I guess matching 30 year old sun faded paint purely by a code isn't a good place to start anyways :)

probably about half of it looks great, the Mrs thinks its fantastic but doesn't have the same standards as me on these things [bigwhistle]

DoubleChevron

26th July 2018, 01:59 PM

Looks good to me :) How does the saying go .... "Happy wife, happy life" .... So if the boss women is happy you have done very well! I think putting a perfect paintjob on a car that gets "used" is crazy. How long do you think mine would last being, er, "sedately" driven through the local forest to work each day.

I will use the best paint I can afford though. It certainly sucks to have to do stuff again in a few months time.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

9th August 2018, 02:02 PM

I just stopped at the local paint place (that I've been using for the last 20years .... and trust).... and they now of the Debeer and Valspar range. They are recommending Valspar as being quite good. It is incredibly cheap (it would be half the price of the equivalent PPG paint I've used in the past).

seeya,
Shane L

DoubleChevron

17th August 2018, 01:50 PM

Well it will be interesting to see how the Valspar paint works out. I just got a 4litre primer/sealer, 4 litres of top coat (2 part all in one ... ie: not base/clear) ... a bunch of sandpaper, a roll of masking film, a few rolls of tap ... A small tin of bog with some reducer, fast hardener, and medium hardener ...... $475 ..... How cheap is this paint! It sure will be interesting to see how it applies. They have always been really helpful guys in at the local paint place. they suggested thinning it as little as possible. 5% max .... They said some painters ever use no reducer at all.

seeya
Shane L.

grey_ghost

17th August 2018, 02:48 PM

Shane - I am watching your comments with great interest... [emoji1303]

DoubleChevron

17th August 2018, 03:51 PM

Shane - I am watching your comments with great interest... [emoji1303]

Given the rate it takes me to get to stuff ...... It may be a while. I have a week off in a couple of weeks.... So no doubt this will be "get the ****box rangie back on the road" week. I must admit I'm enjoying driving my old Citroens around at the moment. You should not drive your old cars for extended periods of time so you can become used to "normal" cars .... Then you can be blown away and how bloody brilliant they are when you start driving them again (rather than thinking they are normal ... and everything else seems like crap).

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

17th August 2018, 11:52 PM

well this is what I'm tidying up ..... Every panel has a clear coat starting to delaminate in small areas and I managed to pressure wash some paint off of several panels. Weirdly the car looks ok if you give it a good wash.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143304&d=1534513548

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143303&d=1533986972

It looked pretty much this neat and tidy when I purchased it. I gave it a good lookover when I bought it. The only real marks in the body were dents at the bottom of both front doors (below the bump strips where you can't see them).... And the two "standard" dents ever Rangie seems to have ... ie: the tailgate where its been opened onto a trailer coupling .... and the roof above the drivers door ( do people somehow lean on the roof ?)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143305&d=1534513178

I've decided I'll paint it a nice bright early colour .... Tuscan blue. That way I don't need to stuff around with metalic paint (plus I have never like metalic greens and blues that always look faded and washed out from almost new). This biggest problem is shiny paint will make even the tiniest mark or flaw .... stand out like dogs balls. So what I did was run my hand over the car and hit every mark with the flap disc in the angle grinder (knocking them back to bare metal).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143306&d=1534512943

Ready for some bog ... nothing like breathing dust and sanding to fill every spare second you have!

DoubleChevron

17th August 2018, 11:59 PM

So my nice straight roof .... I ran my hand over that .... yes you can't miss the nice dent above the drivers door .........................

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143310d1534514100-paint-p1190639.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143308d1534514100-paint-p1190638.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143309d1534514100-paint-p1190640.jpg

This is my life .... Is anything ever quick and easy .... count the bloody things .... I dare you ..... 29 .... yes twenty bloody nine marks in that nice straight roof :o .....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143307d1534514100-paint-p1190650.jpg

I've hit it with the D/A and its now ready for primer. Its not going to be perfect ... but far better than is needed for a daily driven car that'll be used and abused :)

The rest of the panels will only need a quick sand and they'll be good to go right ?

seeya,

DoubleChevron

18th August 2018, 12:01 AM

wow .. the forum made a mess of that post and put the pictures and text out of order .... if you click edit, you get just the text ........ Oh well, close enough :)

Meccles

18th August 2018, 06:27 AM

We get the jist[emoji3]lots of small imperfections filler etc bet it will look smart in Tuscan blue a nice colour. I went solid colour for same reasons.

DoubleChevron

18th August 2018, 10:06 AM

We get the jist[emoji3]lots of small imperfections filler etc bet it will look smart in Tuscan blue a nice colour. I went solid colour for same reasons.

The biggest problem with a colour change is I can't do a quick "closed door" respray.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143312d1534550589-paint-p1190649.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143313d1534550589-paint-p1190648.jpg

And I really should paint under all this stuff under the bonnet ..... I'm not going to though. Its just too much work ... it'll take me another couple of days if I R&R all that stuff and strip/paint.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143314d1534550589-paint-p1190647.jpg

Oh the plastic sill finishers.... I knocked the center out of the plastic rivets and removed them ....................... ER, how the hell do I recover all the little plastic pins from inside the sills now :(

seeya,
Shane L.

Meccles

18th August 2018, 10:09 AM

Their plastic so won’t rattle too much or rust[emoji849]but I understand knowing that their there is [emoji849]

DoubleChevron

18th August 2018, 10:19 AM

And this is how far I am along with the rest of the car.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143316&d=1534551044

whoever has resprayed this car in the past, has used the bump strips to hide panel damage (as it breaks the panel up so you can't see it). Look how big the little dent below the bump strip on the front door turned out to be. I know this pictures all like like the car is full of body filler.... but the reality is most of it is a fraction of a millimeter thick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143315&d=1534551044

When I pealed the bump strips off, in places its pulled the paint and filler off back to bare metal. there is filler holes here about 1/4mm deep. I wouldn't be surprised if they used heaps of plastic filler at the factory on these cars to try and get the aluminium panels nice and straight.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143317&d=1534551044

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143318&d=1534551044

this rear quarter panel is what amazed me the most though. It looked 100% straight ... but after I removed the bump strip I ran my hand over it. And it felt up and down. Look how much area I've covered with filler to get it straight. It was slightly rippled under the side strip.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

19th August 2018, 11:01 PM

I would have spent a solid 10hours on the ****box rangie over the weekend .................. And it looks exaclty the same as the piccies above .... You'd think I'd done nothing :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143420&d=1534682612

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143419&d=1534682791

I removed the Cpillar trims and pealed the vinyl off them (it was splitting). These must have been a very espensive car to build. Look at that aluminium pressing. Its such a nice piece I might paint it body colour rather than put vinyl back on it (I guess it would look odd a late model car have painted Cpillars though).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143423&d=1534682983

behind the Cpillars there is flow through ventilation. Look at that, a rubber flap over it .... creating a dodgy sort of one way air flow exit............................... But check this out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143425&d=1534682983

They are taped shut inside. Why install flow through ventilation "valves", then close them off ? Bizzare!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143424&d=1534682983

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143418&d=1534682612

Like I said, I've put a huge amount of time into the car ..... And it looks like I've done nothing [bighmmm]

I'm ever so slowly getting there though. Does anyone have any smart ideas on scuffing the roof gutters for paint (you can't readily get sand paper down into them).

I'm really enjoying tinkering with the old ****box.................... Its great to get into the shed and do something productive for a change (er, my wifes idea of productive is probably different to mine [tonguewink] ).

I still need to scuff the roof gutters, clean, degrease and scuff all the door openings. Scuff everywhere the D/A sander hasn't been able to get too ......... Oh .... I HATE BLOODY DOUBLE SIDED TAPE. Man that stuff is evil **** to remove :soapbox: Same deal with bloody pin stripping.

On the postive side .... I was looking through the cupboard where I'd stashed the bodywork tools (about 8 years ago [bigwhistle] ) ...... And lok what I found....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143421&d=1534682612

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143422&d=1534682612

How bloody awesome is that!!! I forgot my wife had bought them for me about 6 years ago :D ..... I'm looking forward to seeing how they work out. I was going to try dry sanding the primer (I've always wet sanded in the past)...... But now I've found these, wet sanding it is [bigrolf]

seeya
Shane L.

jsp

25th August 2018, 10:52 PM

who ever taped up the rear vents is smart, its an area where serious rust starts.

your efforts put me to shame [bigsmile]

DoubleChevron

25th August 2018, 11:25 PM

who ever taped up the rear vents is smart, its an area where serious rust starts.

your efforts put me to shame [bigsmile]

Yeah well I'm driving myself crazy getting nowhere. In the back of my mind the entire time I've been thinking " I'll need to re-arrange the damn shed again" ..... Its just so much time and effort to move the stuff around. I was sure this would take an entire weekend just to get it re-arramged to the point where I could start thinking about cleaing it enough for painting.

So, I dragged the Rangie out with the tractor .............. Hooked the the trailer upto the tractor (without the ****box Rangie I don't have a towcar unless I use one of the old Citroens) .... rolled the traction down off the ramps, loaded it onto a the trailer ... Stashed it on the trailer in another shed. Hooked the tractor to the ramps and dragged them out into the middle of the yard (yes boss women will be impressed [bigwhistle] ). Those ramps will be a bloody PITA to get back into the shed, I can't drag them in (as you then end up with whatever is dragging them stuck infront in the shed). I end up having to unbolt them, lift one end with the engine crane, and the other end with the trolley jack .. and pry them along the ground with a bloody great metal pin. ( now there is something to look forward too).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143303d1533986972-paint-20180811_180626.jpg

All this just to tinker with the ****box rangie. So this was the shed this morning

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143628&d=1535202915

ramps out, the 3 benches and all the crap around the ramps out. My biggest problem is the shed is tiny. Its only about 12 x 7.5 meters. And I've walled off an area in there for a home office .... and this area was supposed to become a spray booth about 10years ago when I first shifted here (yeah sure ... oneday..... when I have some spare time .... we'll pencil that is for my retirement as well [bighmmm]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143630&d=1535202915

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143629&d=1535202915

I just need to figure out what to do with all the junk squeezed in here now. The problem is it'll all be covered it huge amounts of dust .... Especially after sanding the car in the shed. I'm probably going to need to line an area of the shed with builders plastic and try to create a "booth" to paint the car in. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it I guess. I'm hoping to get the paint on well enough so I don't have to colour sand all the dust, bugs and crap out of it :) (yes, I am lazy!).

seeya,
Shane L

DoubleChevron

26th August 2018, 11:32 PM

Now here is something interesting. These damn rear steps ... with there pre-rusted, alloy cover plates you can't remove the bolts from ( grrrrr ). I have had 3 Range Rovers with this same rear step..... that needs the hugely dropped tongue to be of any use. And they have all looked bent. The gap between them and the rear tailgate has been greater towards the drivers side on all 3 cars i've had (I've noticed this is cars for sale with the same rear step too..... It looks like the things been clobbered and is twisted ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143642d1535290096-paint-p1190673.jpg

if you put the step on the floor and run a tape measure over it, it doesn't seem to be out of shape.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143644d1535290096-paint-p1190669.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143645d1535290096-paint-p1190670.jpg

The chassis is 10mm different if you measure from a level floor. So the bumper needed to be built with one mount slightly offset (I bet they built the later steps to match the chassis).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143643d1535290096-paint-p1190672.jpg

I just sat the square on the ground like this to measure.

So that is why they all look at of square. The chassis on this car doesn't appear to be damaged at all either. Well I guess it's possible all three rangies I've had with the step have rear rails that are bent ... but I can't see it!

seeya,
Shane L.

Meccles

28th August 2018, 07:16 AM

The chassis from what I’m told is built 10mm different. Tony Owens who used to run Roverland was telling me this the other day.

DoubleChevron

28th August 2018, 10:16 AM

That is what I measured. exactly 10mm difference if you look at the ruler. The builders of the rear step didn't realise they needed to offset one of the mounts, that is why they are all mounted crooked that I have noticed!

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar

28th August 2018, 10:21 AM

Well that explains why mine is crooked too... [emoji16][emoji4]

DoubleChevron

28th August 2018, 11:44 PM

I'm sure I've now spent way more on bits and pieces than I have on paint..... All the crap I've been "working around" for ages.

eg:
--a bunch of nitto compressor fittings so I dont' have to constantly swap the same few fittings around..
--I finally purchased an airline filter. I have a copper tube setup in the air line I put into a bucket of ice to try and condense the moisture out ... and a water trap. But I've always wanted to buy one of those Motor Guard M30 filters. And I just found a copy of them for sale for about 1/2 the amount.

UniMig AT1000 Compressed Air Filter | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UniMig-AT1000-Compressed-Air-Filter/232563568743'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

Otherwise known as a "Toilet Paper Filter". You can put a roll of toilet paper in them to condense out the water rather than the expensive high micron filter cartridges. You'll know why you want them when you find the moisture blisters in your paint.
--bunch of push mount cable ties
--bunch of harness loom clips
-- Oh, check this out. A fuse/relays box for $20.00

Auto Car Fuse Relay Holder Box Relay Socket 6 Relay 5 Road The Nacelle Insurance | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Car-Fuse-Relay-Holder-Box-Relay-Socket-6-Relay-5-Road-The-Nacelle-Insurance/391794470468'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

So the fan and headlight relays can be all cleaned up a lot better than they were.
--A rivnut set
--a small filter/regulator for the spray gun
--a cheapo reverse camera to make hooking trailers up easier
--a bunch of crimp on terninals
--a big roll builders plastic to line a spray area with
--some tack rags
--prepsol
--gloves
--masking film
--scrapers
--respirator filters
--micro cloths
--a set of wiring gromets and plugs.

see what i mean, its bloody endless.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143728d1535463300-paint-p1190676.jpg

Oh this is the little fuse/relay box. I'll let you know what sort of quality it is when I fit it .... certainly a cheap tidy way of cleaning up the wiring.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143729d1535463300-paint-p1190677.jpg

I cheaped out and got that really big (cheap) rivnut set.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143730d1535463300-paint-p1190678.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143731d1535463300-paint-p1190679.jpg

It seems to work quite ok. Sure I'd never trust such a cheap rivnut somewhere critical.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143732d1535463300-paint-p1190681.jpg

but for stuff like this, the transmission tunnel cover and undertrays ... they would have to be perfect!

Yes I know, I should weld up all the spot weld holes.... but all this stuff ... it just takes so much time .... and this is supposed ot be the quickest "tidy up" so I can use the car .... not a restoration.

DoubleChevron

29th August 2018, 12:06 AM

This stuff is so easy to use.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143733d1535464312-paint-p1190683.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143734d1535464312-paint-p1190684.jpg

The films is really easy to use .... The long one is 2 meters long.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143736d1535464312-paint-p1190686.jpg

Its long enough, I can start outside of the door, and "wrap" the door in plastic. There is one HUGE negative with this film, that I'm guessing everyone learns the hard way. Where you spray the paint against it..... on the first coat it dries.... when you spray a second coat, the previous coat blows off and ends up in all the wet paint.

Last time I just used newspaper and taped it around the edges...... I'll be buggered if I can find any these days. I don't know anyone that buys a paper anymore. I went into bunnings and it was $18.00 for a tiny roll of paper to mask with (and I mean tiny) :o

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143735d1535464312-paint-p1190685.jpg

So i went back to the auto paint place. They strongly recommended a dispenser .... I'm sure they are great, but at $112,00 ... I figured a length of metal to sit the roll on would be much better for me...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143737d1535464366-paint-p1190687.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143738d1535464366-paint-p1190688.jpg

its a HUGE amount of work to paint these door openings... why on earth did I buy a different colour!

I only got the two doors done this evening.... its so bloody cold out there, my fingers turned numb and I couldn't get the tape off the roles [bighmmm] Oh wow, no wonder I think I'm getting old and feeling the cold.... I just checked the weather online. minus 1.2 outsides ..... "feel like" minus -5.2 :o

seeya,
Shane L.

rar110

29th August 2018, 08:51 AM

Painting a car is a lot of work, especially redoing stuff. When I saw you were going with a new colour I thought extra work.

I collected a heap of free newspapers before last years 110 respray, and I still went short.

Homestar

29th August 2018, 08:56 AM

Yeah, have done one colour change on a vehicle before - including engine out to do under the bonnet. While I would never say never again, it certainly isn't on the top of my list of things to do although if I get my RRC running right, paint may be back on the cards at some point.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing what it turns out like.

DoubleChevron

29th August 2018, 03:22 PM

Well I thought I'd have all the door openings and "backs" of the panels painted today (eg: back of the bonnet, fuel flap, tailgate etc.... I reckon I've put over 4hours into just taping up those bloody door openings :o .... Then I dragged the spray gun out .......... and for the first time ever though "I probably should check this thing" ....... Yes, it's only taken me 20years to learn checking first is a hell of a lot easier to re-doing everything ............ [bighmmm][bighmmm][bighmmm] (if only I was joking). I put some left over 2pack reducer into the gun to see what it would do...................

And i"ll be damned, the bloody thing leaked everywhere when I tipped it forward .... The cap on the pot.... I pulled the gun back to bits and gave it another clean. And found white enamel paint from the caravan I painted a few years back in the lid recess. So I checked agian ............. (ie: hold it sideways, tilt it forward, back ..... even upside down).......... Damn thing start dripping if I tip it forward for more than 5seconds.... It appears to be the needle and seat. So back to bits again.... Then I cleaned the needle with some super fine steel wool..... and found a tiny amount of "melted" white enamel on the needle when I pushed it into the seat .... That damn enamel. it mustn't flush out of the gun with enamel thinner. So I have it out there now with 2pack reducer sitting in it (that stuff is so toxic .... you can feel the cancers growing just looking at the **** .... it will also dissolve pretty much anything if left in contact ...). Wow 2pack paints are scary toxic. AVOID unless you have an air fed mask and you cover every scrap of skin (especially the eyes). I'm also keeping away from the shed while it cures.... they make me feel sick in the stomach if I'm around them curing (POR Hardnose did the same thing to me).

The 45minute round trip to pickup the kids at 3:30pm in the afternoon means I'm getting bugger all done. Because if your not ready to paint by 2:00pm ... Your not painting until the following day (by the time you get back .... way to cold).

To think we do this stuff for fun http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/smilies/crazy.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/smilies/crazy.gif

seeya,
Shane L.

bikeman

29th August 2018, 07:06 PM

DoubleChevron

29th August 2018, 08:13 PM

I have a rear step bar that has been used on 2 classics. The bar always looks bent and I tried to pack one side, the rhs to make it look level. Maybe all RRC have out of level chassis???

I may try packing it. I do use this thing to tow a lot, so unless the packing shims are perfect..... I may fatique and break something eventually. The packers would need to graduate upto 10mm as they cross the rear crossmember to keep it safe as a towbar (as a bumper, it wouldn't matter at all :) ).

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

30th August 2018, 11:06 AM

Wow this is frustrating ... I only have a few days off .... I just couldn't get the paint on yesterday (as I'd have only got half way through it before the school run). Ready to go today ..... outside temperature. 5.9degrees.... "feels like" -0.1 .... It would be 6degrees tops in the shed. Looks like I have a day to setup a clean area to paint it ... I have a small jetfire, but it won't heat an open 12 x 7.5meter shed when its < 6degrees .... I'll need to get the lined area fixed up today. That way I can "try" to heat it for paint tomorrow (here's me thinking I'd have the whole car primed and blocked ready for top coat on friday .......................... I haven't even done the door openings let alone put the primer surfacer on the entire body yet).

damn, yesterday was perfect for painting ... still (no wind).. about 14degrees and warm in the shed as the sun was on it.

seeya
Shane L.

Homestar

30th August 2018, 04:02 PM

DoubleChevron

31st August 2018, 10:07 AM

You'll be waiting a while now I think unfortunately. Our little hint of Spring is gone and it's not likely to be warm again until about this time next week by the looks of it - and maybe until around December in Ballarat...[biggrin]

Yep, that is what I'm working on. Man I suck at typing with one hand :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143828d1535672062-paint-p1190694.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143831d1535672062-paint-p1190691.jpg

I was trying to think of a way of covering the opening .... possibbly hanging the builders plastic like a curtain .... (but how do I get it air titght then). Then I spotted the ****ty treated pine I bought as edging for the pavers................... so now that is a bunch of useless short bits of timber cut down and covered in plastic. I have fixed the dooor with the fan blower (and will also have the jetfire in it). The other is hinged.

I then spent bloody ages trying to tape the plastic on ..... balls of bloody tape and plastic everywhere and one very frustrated DoubleChevron.... about then I remembered i purchased a air staple gun to make caravaninterior doors with early last year.......... Bloody amazing.... that sucker is worth its weight in gold!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143829d1535672062-paint-p1190693.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143830d1535672062-paint-p1190692.jpg

All the plastic is stappled on .... I just need to run some tape around it to make it airtight after training last night and I'm all done.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143832d1535672062-paint-p1190689.jpg

I'm hoping this will work... The blower fan and jetfire are mounted up high.... and the exhaust is at ground level... The idea is the area should be slightly pressurised and the dust and overspray will be pulled to the floor where the exhaust is .... well its worth a try either way.

The biggest issue now is,,,,,,, for the first time in the 12years I've been doing it, I fell awkwardly last night at training ,,,,, landing heavily on my arm/wrist..... I actually felt and heard my wrist "pop". I pretty sure the only thing that has saved the wrist from shaattering is the tens of thousands of pushups I've done on my knuckles over the last 12years....

So now I sit here typing one handed... I can't peel the tape from a masking roll,,,, can't hold a spray gun..... on the bright side, my wrist can support the weight of my hand today.... and i can move all of my fingers again ..... I must have popped the wrist out of joint, then it went straight back in............ so nothing broken. hopefully I can hold a spray gun (and open a paint tin [bighmmm] ) in a day or so... failing that I'll have to go get some xrays done

That lined area in the shed is all heavily insulated, so I should be able to heat and paint even if the weather stays awful like it has been.

seeya
Shane L.
PS: All of my cars are manual, doing the school run is fun [tonguewink]

Homestar

31st August 2018, 10:56 AM

Nice work - should work well I think. Hope your wrist heals quickly - I've always said exercise is no good for anyone.... [bigwhistle]

DoubleChevron

31st August 2018, 11:53 AM

Nice work - should work well I think. Hope your wrist heals quickly - I've always said exercise is no good for anyone.... [bigwhistle]

**** happens :) I broke my foot just walking down the front steps of the house years ago. I get a lot out of martial arts.... especially in seeing the change in students. You can see the change in self confidence in people... especially kids that stick at it for more than 6months.

https://www.facebook.com/taekwondoballarat/videos/771501766350275/

this is one of my girls here, amazingly my two girls have stuck it out for probably 5years now.... the change in my eldest in particular in self confidence is mind blowing.... truly incredible. she is a different person now.

forget the exercise and watch the change in the people.... its one of the most rewarding things you will ever do :)

Homestar

31st August 2018, 11:57 AM

**** happens :) I broke my foot just walking down the front steps of the house years ago. I get a lot out of martial arts.... especially in seeing the change in students. You can see the change in self confidence in people... especially kids that stick at it for more than 6months.

https://www.facebook.com/taekwondoballarat/videos/771501766350275/

this is one of my girls here, amazingly my two girls have stuck it out for probably 5years now.... the change in my eldest in particular in self confidence is mind blowing.... truly incredible. she is a different person now.

forget the exercise and watch the change in the people.... its one of the most rewarding things you will ever do :)

Ah - right - I get it. Both my kids did Teakwondo for 4 years - yes, they both got heaps out of it. I tried myself but my knees are stuffed - old Squash injuries, so I just walk the dogs when I can and impersonate the Fat Controller from Thomas the tank engine now...[biggrin]

DoubleChevron

2nd September 2018, 09:19 PM

soooooo frustrating .... I went out there today and swept the shed a couple if times.... then mopped the floor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143896&d=1535886890

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=143897&d=1535886890

With the fan and heater on .... there is a remarkable amount of airflow.... its bloody simmering in there in minutes if you have the heater running. Wow those little jetfires pump some heat out!

Hopefully by next week I'll be able to use my hand again ... rather than just sitting around frustrated.

seeya
Shane L.

bblaze

2nd September 2018, 11:05 PM

DoubleChevron

2nd September 2018, 11:35 PM

only need one hand to rub down, one to spray. Toughen up sunshine [bigsmile][bigsmile], if its your the hand you normally use, use the other one. I am keen to see the finished product.[happycry]
cheers
blaze

Yeah, don't think I didn't try that too... I looked at the paint tin on the benchtop ... couldn't lift it off, couldn't hold it to pry the lid off .... Hmmm.... Well if I sit on the ground and hold it with my legs, I can get the lid off .... How to pick it up and pour it though ? Then I spotted the reducer and hardener with safety screw on lids and realised there was no way of getting them undone with one hand. I'm left handed, and its the left wrist I hurt. It gotten slightly better each day .... maybe 1 week ... we'll see. Sure it'll still be no good in a week, but possibly usable for light loads if I'm careful [bighmmm] I won't be lifting engine blocks around with it though.

DoubleChevron

9th September 2018, 06:01 PM

I'm going crazy ... there is only one car I can really drive.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144069&d=1536479247

And the damn thing has leaked away two litres of hydraulic fluid in the last week alone... So I managed to dodge the trees in the yard and get the cdar onto the ramps I dragged outside.... Just a couple of return lines split where they push over barbs.... Talk about struggling to replace.. as I needed to hold one side while I pushed the line on. But it gave me an idea .....

I headed in and grabbed the metal soup ladle from the kitchen... I'll mix up some paint by measuring it out with a soup ladle and spraying with the other hand [biggrin] That went really well... I wiped everything down ... cleaned the gun again ... and got to the point where I was ready to paint... Of all the stupid things .... I couldn't connect the spray gun to the air line ..... I couldn't hold the hose against 60psi while I connected the gun ...[bighmmm] [bighmmm][bighmmm]

Oh well getting better everyday. I can now type properly and hold a cup of coffee. and my left hand no longer looks yellow next to the right one... Maybe next weekend!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144070&d=1536479247

pretty impressive bruise though .... [bigsmile1]

seeya
Shane L.

Meccles

9th September 2018, 07:39 PM

Grumbles

9th September 2018, 08:10 PM

I fell awkwardly last night at training ,,,,, landing heavily on my arm/wrist..... I actually felt and heard my wrist "pop". I pretty sure the only thing that has saved the wrist from shattering is the tens of thousands of pushups I've done on my knuckles over the last 12years....

So now I sit here typing one handed...

That is terrible, rotten bad luck Shane. I believe that we don't really appreciate our hands until one is out of action.

Still.....it may have been much worse. A few years back I had a simple fall in the back yard on the concrete path. I did think that it hurt more than it should have.....then I looked at my hand and my thumb was waving in the breeze because it was now only attached to me by a sliver of skin. I stuck it back on, wrapped it all up in an old tea towel and drove to the Docs.

You're a skilled, hands on type guy so this must be very frustrating for you. Wishing you a speedy recovery.

Cheers.

DoubleChevron

9th September 2018, 09:11 PM

Harden up lad [emoji3]reminds me of a time I’m sitting in a bar in Bangkok girl wanders over has a feel of my chest and says “ ah implants” it was like well those thousands of push ups were a waste of time[emoji3]you’ll get better anyone that does knuckle push ups is ok by me!

2 knuckles here... i obviously dislocated the wrist .... and it then popped straight back in. My wife keeps telling me I should go to the hospital and have it looked at [bighmmm] I would if it wasn't getting better each day.... Bangkok .... Did you go over there to train in Muay Thai (I've joined in a few classes locally .... I really enjoyed it... it sure does attract the "full on" type of person to train).

If I'd fallen backwards, I'd have fallen properly and not hurt myself. The problem was I went straight down like the proverbial sack of merde ... My legs went straight up, and my body straight down. How dumb to throw my hands down (80kgs pile driving through a bent wrist as you hit the floor)... I certainly won't try it a 2nd time [bigwhistle][bigwhistle]

Er, men can get chest implants ?

fortunately I work on computers, so I can still work, even when I hurt myself by being stupidly clumsy!

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

9th September 2018, 09:19 PM

That is terrible, rotten bad luck Shane. I believe that we don't really appreciate our hands until one is out of action.

Still.....it may have been much worse. A few years back I had a simple fall in the back yard on the concrete path. I did think that it hurt more than it should have.....then I looked at my hand and my thumb was waving in the breeze because it was now only attached to me by a sliver of skin. I stuck it back on, wrapped it all up in an old tea towel and drove to the Docs.

You're a skilled, hands on type guy so this must be very frustrating for you. Wishing you a speedy recovery.

Cheers.

:o :o :o How does falling down cut a thumb like that ... I tried to cut mine off with one of those feathertouch knives.... I still have the big scar. I cut nearly to the bone ( and 3/4's of the way through the tendon). I could see the big cut in the tendon moving up and down when I moved the thumb. It was strange when I went upto the hospital. The nurse kept saying "it'll be fine, I put a few stitches in it and you can go .." .... "Its pretty deep" I said a couple of times. She went a bit pale when she saw it and said "er, you better wait here".... Then she went upstairs and got one of the surgeons out of an operating theatre to stitch it up for me.

I have to stop being such a clutz .... how can someone that sits on there arse for a living damage themselves so often [bigsmile1]

seeya,
Shane L.

Meccles

9th September 2018, 10:14 PM

You’ll get better you sound motivated and tough. Anyone that picks Rovers/ Citroen’s and Muay Thai falls into that category[emoji3] Good you can keep working I moved from doing what I loved on upwards cause I knew my back couldn’t tolerate lifting 200 kg bell bottom door up then dragging my partner in much longer.

Grumbles

10th September 2018, 09:21 PM

:o :o :o How does falling down cut a thumb like that ... I tried to cut mine off with one of those feathertouch knives.... I still have the big scar. I cut nearly to the bone ( and 3/4's of the way through the tendon). I could see the big cut in the tendon moving up and down when I moved the thumb.

seeya,
Shane L.

When I fell it seems I used my hands to try and break my fall but some how my hand twisted sideways and my full body weight fell on the outstretched point of my thumb which tore it off my hand.

The surgeon botched the repair job and my thumb is now just an inanimate digit. I can't move it at all and have little feeling in it. The bones in my hand were all scrunched up in the fall and are still like it today. The medical association moved on the surgeon for performing unauthorized surgical techniques so he closed his practice and disappeared over night.

I have to stop being such a clutz .... how can someone that sits on there arse for a living damage themselves so often [bigsmile1]

seeya,
Shane L.

That just blew me away. You...a shiny arse...... I would never have picked it.

DoubleChevron

11th September 2018, 11:36 PM

How do people just sit around and watch tv all the time .... I'm going bloody crazy... So I thought i'd have another go (you don't have to be stupid... but it helps).

I used the soup ladle to mix up the primer .... what a ripper of an idea.... You see, 4 scoops of paint, 2 of reducer ... and one of hardener means you get the exact amount of paint, but you don't need to measure :) ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144138&d=1536671593

Anyway, my gun is this arnold hvlp gravity feed gun that has been abused and left sitting arond in cupboards for probably 15years. Once again, for the first time ever, I hang a sheet of paper out and tested it. The fan on it doesn't spray perfectly (one side is stronger than the other side...). But the bit that surprised me is I had to drop the pressure at the gun back to 20psi to get and even spread of paint ( I though these guns were supposed to run at 30 -> 35psi :o ).

anyway, I fought and stuggled with the bastard... pretty much ended up laying on the ground with the bastard of a gun between my legs trying to get the airline on .... Why in the flying **** is this so god damn hard....

Anyway, it laid down the primer absolutely lovely for about 90seconds .. .then I lost air pressure ... [bighmmm] I spend bloody AGES swearing ... I checked everything, then heard the compressor cycle off ( WTF ) ... the compressor is an old aussie made clisby I bought when I was about 16years old. Its the only tool I've ever bought that always just works (its never even needed the belt adjusted in all these years). Anyway, I ended up unplug that god damn air hose from the gun... No air there, plenty at the filter where the line is plugged in [bigsad] ??? WTF ...

Then I couldn't get the gun back onto the airline .... AAARRRRRhhhhhh... No I didn't burn the god damn thing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144139&d=1536671593

check this out, I have no idea where that fitting came from, but it's not quite right ... (now just imagine someone trying to clamp the gun, full of paint under one arm, while trying to unscrew the fitting with the other hand .... Only the filter at the gun unscrews and comes apart. Now I'm sitting on the ground, trying to hold it all together under my arm and with my legs while I try to get it back together ( Do you get the idea I just love making everything a challenger for myself [bigsmile1] ).

anyway, now the bloody gun plugs on easily ... but no air... FFS, I follow the air line back from the gun and end up outside .....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144140&d=1536671593

and end up a the compressor I got from the tip. This thing only restarts about 50% of the time as the one way valve in its line doesn't always work (and the compressor can't start against 80psi of pressure).... So I've hooked the lines up backwards, my mask is supposed to go to this compressor (so it always runs ... supplied *just* enough air so I can breath without getting paint fumes) ... only I had the gun hooked to it instead, and it cycled off, then tripped its overload switch when it tried to restart ... so no air for the spray gun ... Do you know we do this **** for fun ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144142&d=1536671593

anyway, the spray booth works absolutely brilliantly ... it draws all the overspray right away.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144141&d=1536671593

I only ended up putting 1 coat of paint on. that valspar gives incredible coverage from what I could tell.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144143&d=1536672594

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144144&d=1536672594

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144145&d=1536672594

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144146&d=1536672594

I'll have to check tomorrow night, but it seems to have gone down so nicely, its level with next to no orange peel, it doesn't seem to have ran anywhere .... And wow its bloody shiny. I can't get a decent picture as the camera just washes out.

seeya,
Shane L.

Pedro_The_Swift

12th September 2018, 06:28 AM

Thats a nice colour... [smilebigeye]

Meccles

12th September 2018, 09:23 AM

I like the Tuscan blue[emoji1303]you’ve made some good progress

Pedro_The_Swift

12th September 2018, 10:03 AM

Just for you Michael....[bigwhistle]
no pressure!

Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156620683694265&set=pcb.10155774328011186&type=3&theater)

Meccles

13th September 2018, 06:58 PM

Pedro I couldn’t open the link it opens in Bahasa cause I’m in Malaysia gotta work to pay for these things [emoji849]

Grumbles

13th September 2018, 08:38 PM

That looks great Shane. :thumbsup: Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Get a wriggle on eh........[wink11]

Pedro_The_Swift

14th September 2018, 07:19 AM

Pedro I couldn’t open the link it opens in Bahasa cause I’m in Malaysia gotta work to pay for these things [emoji849]

With apologies to Shane....

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/41507253_10156620683704265_5467130344287240192_o.j pg?_nc_cat=0&oh=77389bb3f56509f3f3bae42159f07090&oe=5C2A6957

Meccles

14th September 2018, 09:04 AM

That’s the Masai red one Geelong Classic paint did very [emoji1303]

DoubleChevron

14th September 2018, 09:32 AM

With apologies to Shane....

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/41507253_10156620683704265_5467130344287240192_o.j pg?_nc_cat=0&oh=77389bb3f56509f3f3bae42159f07090&oe=5C2A6957

Oh, that one. Join the range rover classic group on facebook and you can see it. Absolutely spectacular job they have done. There not trying to polish a turd like I am .... that is one seriously nice car! I'm very impressed by how nicely they cleaned up the dash area too.

seeya,
Shane L.

workingonit

14th September 2018, 02:01 PM

I'm very impressed by how nicely they cleaned up the dash area too.

I also like the dash. Mine is drab. I've finally cut all the rust out of my 84 RRC and heading toward sand blasting the interior and maybe rattle canning the finish as why this thread interested me.

Prob is I can't see 99% of your photos (same issue on most threads now). I can see Pedro's. I'm also looking at jon3950 simpson trip and can see all his. How are you posting yours? Just need a bit of info before I try self help then 'admin'.

DoubleChevron

14th September 2018, 02:06 PM

I also like the dash. Mine is drab. I've finally cut all the rust out of my 84 RRC and heading toward sand blasting the interior and maybe rattle canning the finish as why this thread interested me.

Prob is I can't see 99% of your photos (same issue on most threads now). I can see Pedro's. I'm also looking at jon3950 simpson trip and can see all his. How are you posting yours? Just need a bit of info before I try self help then 'admin'.

My pictures? They are hosted here on the forum. If you are logged in you should see them ( they are far from exciting BTW [bigsmile1] ).

Hopefully this weekend I'll get some primer on the thing, so next weekend I can blow some colour around.

seeya,
Shane L.

workingonit

14th September 2018, 02:55 PM

If you are logged in you should see them ( they are far from exciting BTW [bigsmile1] )

I'm using a Linux program with Waterfox installed, a small set and forget arrangement and was working fine for long time, and i've made no changes to it since. So if things change then the changes are occurring around me and in theory nothing I've done - so I may have to make some adjustments. If i hover my mouse over your photos a little image box appears with a timer gif that just keeps ticking over. If I ask for 'open in new tab' then I get an aulro screen with the dialogue box that says I'm logged out - and if i try logging in it just takes me back to the message that I'm logged out. I'll open win10 and see if there is a difference.

I assume epoxy primers and paints are still most favored. Dan Gilbart has some youtube vids and makes an interesting point that you can go straight to colour on freshly sandblasted steel provided its under 3 hours since blasting. Dream Car Garage had a segment on their painting processes so I listed all their layer types - and boy, do they do a lot of cutting back on the top coat. I watch restoration programs that present their finished paint jobs, and on some I can still see an orange peel, and others are like polished glass and no distortion of images reflected - even though they're all presenting as high class restorers there seems to be difference to me. Not that my vehicle is headed that way regarding restoration.

DoubleChevron

14th September 2018, 03:56 PM

I'm using a Linux program with Waterfox installed, a small set and forget arrangement and was working fine for long time, and i've made no changes to it since. So if things change then the changes are occurring around me and in theory nothing I've done - so I may have to make some adjustments. If i hover my mouse over your photos a little image box appears with a timer gif that just keeps ticking over. If I ask for 'open in new tab' then I get an aulro screen with the dialogue box that says I'm logged out - and if i try logging in it just takes me back to the message that I'm logged out. I'll open win10 and see if there is a difference.

I assume epoxy primers and paints are still most favored. Dan Gilbart has some youtube vids and makes an interesting point that you can go straight to colour on freshly sandblasted steel provided its under 3 hours since blasting. Dream Car Garage had a segment on their painting processes so I listed all their layer types - and boy, do they do a lot of cutting back on the top coat. I watch restoration programs that present their finished paint jobs, and on some I can still see an orange peel, and others are like polished glass and no distortion of images reflected - even though they're all presenting as high class restorers there seems to be difference to me. Not that my vehicle is headed that way regarding restoration.

Oh, has your subscription lapsed.... er, actually. I wonder if mine has too. From memory there was some tiny, token amount we paid to get full access to the forum. Easiest way is to try a normal browser. I know this works fine through chrome on linux mint.

seeya,
Shane L.

Meccles

14th September 2018, 08:45 PM

Actually spoke to Stuart from GCP today this isn’t the one he did. They’re still looking for carpets etc. Now I don’t feel so bad [emoji3]

350RRC

18th September 2018, 08:20 PM

350RRC

18th September 2018, 09:46 PM

Oh, that one. Join the range rover classic group on facebook and you can see it. Absolutely spectacular job they have done. There not trying to polish a turd like I am .... that is one seriously nice car! I'm very impressed by how nicely they cleaned up the dash area too.

seeya,
Shane L.

Is that the ashtray on top of the trans tunnel? I've never seen one in an older RRC and just assumed the butts got tossed out the windows.

DL

loanrangie

18th September 2018, 09:58 PM

My 81 had the ash tray there.

workingonit

19th September 2018, 10:49 AM

Inc has been incredibly incisive and disabled some incompatible background do day on the site...

Been a few days since last log in, and now I can see all the photos. So it would seem Inc's updates have made a difference...thanks Inc.

DoubleChevron

22nd September 2018, 10:39 PM

Well I have done a lot of .... er, "learning" today. Its always good to learn new stuff right [bigsmile1]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144477d1537618684-paint-primed2.jpg

The primer layed down really nicely... But I'm going to have to work out how to do the colour on the roof. Even with the car sitting on its brake rotors. I need to use a ladder, and I'm struggling to reach the middle without banging the ladder into the doors. Using a ladder, I can't walk the side of the car either. So I'm going to be painting the roof in 4 sections ( moving the ladder twice on both sides). I'm not sure how it'll blend the paint where I'm stopping in the middle.... I found I need to wrap the hoses around myself and be **really** careful with them not to have them touching.

I mixed a "doubled" batch of paint.... that is 8 soup ladles of paint ... about a litre. I found the gun wasn't spraying to well towards the end of the batch .... hmmmm.... Maybe it needs a bigger tip than the 1.4 suggested. I mixed up a 2nd batch .....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144478d1537618684-paint-splatter.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144479d1537618684-paint-splatter2.jpg

The gun kept cutting out and splattering .... In desperation I pulled the gun to bits and found a bit of paint "slime" in the needle and seat .... Hmmm.... So I cleaned the gun and put some more paint in .... 5seconds later... splattering again (same bloody spot above) .... and no paint coming out ...... AAARRRRhhhhh... Pull the gun apart ... paint "slime" again ..... It finally clicked what is going on ... About now the kids arrived in the door of the shed.... I must have been, er, exclaiming very loudly http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/smilies/cussing.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/smilies/cussing.gif about the "learning" I was experiencing in the shed [bighmmm]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144481d1537619479-paint-paint.jpg

The paint ... I'd mixed up the next batch into the same measuring container as the last .... What has happened is the tiny bits of paint coating the bottom and sides of the mixing container has "activated" and is through the mixed paint as strings of "slime" ...... I had to discard about 1litre of mixed paint ( Damn, I only have 4litres here .... ).

So I cleaned the gun again ... And mixed up some more paint in a new container and kept going ... I noticed occasionally the gun would throw a small "lump" of paint. What is happening is the paint is building up on the guns fan .... Basically with the 2pack paint I need to pull that gun down after each couple of pots of paint and clean it in reducer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144482d1537619802-paint-gun.jpg

I've got it all soaking in reducer. I'm slowly learning though. I MUST clean this bloody thing while I'm painting. Its not like dulon where the fresh thinner through it keeps it clean.

DoubleChevron

22nd September 2018, 10:54 PM

Other stuff I learned also ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144483&d=1537620381

I can't do this **** again ... All of the benches and junk need to be gone. every time I filled the paint gun and tried to clean it .... I was getting hung up trying to dodge around everything and the air hoses kept tangling. That is another thing I need to do. Clean the two air lines and tape them together so they can't tangle.

Also, the gun started to spray badly towards the last bit I sprayed from the 3rd lot I mixed up... I need to mix the paint as I go. What is happening is the paint is kicking before I can spray it all on and thickening out .... that's is why I've been struggling. Just a paint gun full at a time I need to mix. (fast reducer and activator I'm using for the primer).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144484&d=1537620381

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144485&d=1537620381

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144486&d=1537620381

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144487&d=1537620381

Look how nicely that vaspar primer layed down! For cheap **** its applying really nicely. You really need to hose it on though. I've got everything on the gun as wide open as it'll go.

seeya
Shane L.

Homestar

23rd September 2018, 08:26 AM

dungarover

23rd September 2018, 02:03 PM

I have my Tommy Tucker plasterers trestle for that, 2 meters long and goes up to 900mm (same height as a 3 step ladder). I painted a roof once but I was swapping a sunroof over to a normal non sunroof on a Rangie I owned years ago. I just painted mine outside it was acrylic paint so neo need for a booth, the QLD weather was a bonus though (about July-Au, 22 degrees not like this place!!)

Trav

DoubleChevron

23rd September 2018, 11:40 PM

Now there's an idea... I wonder if I can walk a plank wrapped in two air hoses without falling off [bighmmm]

The wheels are back on ... and the rangie wheeled out. All this crap takes so much time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144525d1537709630-paint-p3.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144526d1537709630-paint-p4.jpg

I wonder if I can setup the ladder as a "plank" to walk and do the roof. It's going to be a PITA.... I was at full stretch to paint the bonnet at waist height ( and I'm 6' tall).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144527d1537709630-paint-p1.jpg

The rest is primed now. Lets just hope its enough paint after wasting that mixed 500ml... 4litres would have been the perfect amount if I hadn't wasted a chunk of it ....

Homestar

24th September 2018, 06:37 AM

As I said 'carefully' - don't want you going arse up and injuring yourself any more. 😊

350RRC

24th September 2018, 08:03 AM

I have my Tommy Tucker plasterers trestle for that,.............
Trav

No stilts Trav?

DL

dungarover

24th September 2018, 05:28 PM

Nope no stilts, I tried dads a couple of times years ago and fell off both times, I'll stick to planks!!

Trav

350RRC

25th September 2018, 08:02 AM

You got some 20 litre oil drums and a couple of scaffold planks? Set the oils drums up where each wheel arch is then use a plank between them to spray the roof - you can the (carefully) walk end to end to spray the roof and it's simple and easy to move the planks behind you when you get to the sides. Easy if you have the bits as always though, I know not everyone has a couple of big planks kicking around.

The previous owner of the white 2 door I sold earlier this year actually removed the roof to paint it.

He figured it would be easier doing it that way............ I dunno about that!

Looked ok though, in white 2 pack. Didn't have a mirror sheen.

DL

DoubleChevron

25th September 2018, 09:55 AM

The previous owner of the white 2 door I sold earlier this year actually removed the roof to paint it.

He figured it would be easier doing it that way............ I dunno about that!

Looked ok though, in white 2 pack. Didn't have a mirror sheen.

DL

I painted an old Citroen wagon once in white 2pack .......... The white colours I find look "clean and tidy" as opposed to shiny. They do look shiny under lighting though. Excellent for beginners as it hides so many sins. I used to think white sucked.... But I've a few old classic cars around recently done up in white.... And it looks great. Really fresh and tidy. When nearly every modern car on the roads is a perl/metaliic ... the old "plain" colours start to look really tidy and clean as opposed to "boring".

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar

25th September 2018, 05:21 PM

And lets face it, most car makers offer Black, Grey, White and Red or variations of those. Mazda seem to buck the trend, but for the most part, I think around 80% of new vehicles would fall into one of those colour groups - blood sheep....

Keep doing what you're doing Shane - love the colour the RRC is becoming, it will certainly stand out amongst the crowd. :)

DoubleChevron

25th September 2018, 11:34 PM

I've started with the drivers door ... and bits off the car as they only got two coats of primer (rather than 3). I think they should be ok.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144633&d=1537881676

I reckon all you really need is one of these rubber blocks for this ... But seeing I have that big kit I wanted to try the various blocks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144634&d=1537881676

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144635&d=1537881676

I've never used long blocks like this before... I went with the smallest crown .. so across the bonnet down at the front ... and down the length of it further up... Your going to end up with one seriously straight panel doing it this way. Really though, its use it limited to big panels (eg: roof and bonnet)... so probably not worth the $$$.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144636&d=1537881676

This thin long block though ... what a ripper for doing down all the edges..... How much is doing the roof going to suck with all hose ridges formed it it... See how it conforms to the shape of the panel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144637&d=1537881676

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144638&d=1537881676

That's amazing ... it's picked up a low spot in the fold in the bonnet .... this is because its long, but bendy enough to follow the line and not dig in. I'm going to fix this by pretending its fine (this isn't a show car... its a 4wd that'll probably get scratched within a few weeks of being back on the road). I'm ignoring any stone chips or marks as i find them ... otherwise I'll be here for bloody ever and never get the car back together.

seeya,
Shane L.

Baggy

26th September 2018, 11:38 PM

DoubleChevron

27th September 2018, 11:01 AM

Hi Shane,

Been away from the forum for a few weeks and look what I've missed.

You have one a great job and the Rangie is coming along nicely.
Its all in the prep work and that Blue coupled with the finish from the gun its looking great .... you can't call her a ****box anymore.

With you gun is there is a breather hole in the top section .... need to make sure that's not blocked specially when you have the gun filled and spraying.
I've had problems with paint spitting from the gun due to something as simple as the hole being blocked.

Drums and planks have worked for me in the past ... setting them up so you can paint one half then the other and go back and forth till the roofs painted and you can then
concentrate on the rest of the car

As you have already pointed out spraying a Rangie is a stretch whichever way you look at it ... and as others have said just be very careful after your recent fall.

We're all not getting any younger and recovery takes sooo much longer

Look forward to future posts ...

Baggy

I've been thinking about the roof. I'm guessing the only way to do that would be a stack of large garden pavers .... with some garden sleepers laying across them. It probably won't need to be super high if I can put it close to the car .... They would need to be down both sides of the car so I don't need to move them. The issue is you need two trestles. You can't move the one as you need to continue the wet edge in the middle of the roof. ie: not spend 5minutes moving your trestle to the other side (or the wet edge will have dried).

After sanding most of the bonnet... I've come to the realisation this is weeks away. There is going to be hours in sanding the guide coat off that roof. With all those ridges pressed into the roof, it will be a very time demanding job to prep.

Not to mention boss women is starting to get 'slightly annoyed' with me running off to the shed all the time rather than doing "more important" [bighmmm] stuff around the house.... Pffftt, as though anything could be more important that tinkering out in the shed!

seeya,
Shane L.

Baggy

28th September 2018, 04:20 PM

DoubleChevron

28th September 2018, 05:57 PM

Hi Shane,

You do know your painting and I totally agree on roof however you'd have to climb up there to pick any anomalies .... and a good buff may just fix that.

It starts out as a quick I'll give it a squirt over I'm not going to be too fussy ... its a 4x4 ... I can't leave those minor imperfections ... but in the end ... she's going to LOOK SWEET

Can't wait to see more photo's ....

Cheers

Baggy

Have you got a camera in my shed :o

Last time I was at the paint shop I asked for "super fine" putty for tiny marks etc....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144713d1538121024-paint-f1.jpg

I was sold this ... it is super fine ... really nice, but no good for this. It's not thin enough, and sets too hard. On a whim, I called into the paint shop. This time a different person was there... and I said "Do you have any spot putty for pinholes... Not that single pack crap that shrinks viciously"...... And he walked straight over and said "this is what all the tradies use"....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144714d1538121024-paint-f2.jpg

hmmm.... It has a hardener... and is the perfect consistancy. You squeeze it out like a really thin tooth paste. that tiny foil packet beside it is hardener.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144715d1538121024-paint-f3.jpg

As usual I suck at applying it and making it look level....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144716d1538121024-paint-f4.jpg

Its sands absolutely bloody lovely .... no wonder tradies use it... Marvellous stuff. Not cheap at over $30bucks ... but that small packet would last me a lifetime (infact I'm sure I'll throw 99.9% of it out as it'll go out of date).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144717d1538121024-paint-f5.jpg

Here is a stone chip I filled with it. excellent stuff.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144718d1538121024-paint-f6.jpg

I'm probably at the starting point now for a really nice paint job ................. But bugger it, close enough, lets throw some colour on there and move on.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

28th September 2018, 06:19 PM

Well I'm learning .... The reason I was at the paint shop to ask about that spot putty was to grab some measuring containers.... DO NOT mix the paint in the same container as the last batch (yes I could hang around and clean the containers after pouring into the gun, but I'm not doing that.... I'd rather just get the paint on and done). The mixing containers are about $1.00 each.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144719d1538121716-paint-f7.jpg

tomorrow I'll go out and have a close look. I don't like being around fresh curing 2pack paint. I noticed after the 1st coat on the bonnet it looked dry in the middle .... On the 2nd coat I noticed as I was at full stretch I was holding the gun to high and travelling much faster in the middle of the bonnet. I'm hoping I don't need to colour sand and polish due to this. On the 3rd (final) coat, I used my good hand and concentrated on moving slowly and holding the gun at the right distance at full stretch.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144720d1538121716-paint-f8.jpg

The gun ran out of paint doing the 2nd coat on the boot lid .... Hmm... I hope that doesn't leave a dry mark in the paint. I also noticed the gun was weeping down the side of the pot from the lid... So I gave it a good tighten up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144721d1538121716-paint-f9.jpg

The gun felt lightish. ... so I checked the paint before starting the skuttle ... Damn it, because I tightened the lid 'cos it was weeping the pot started to unscrew from the gun ......... Urrr..... bugger it .... I love to make life difficult for myself. I held the pot in one hand and thought to myself "You probably will hurt yourself if you do this moron ....." ... and grabbed the lid with my bad hand to unscrew it ..... Yep, that sure as **** did hurt when the cap suddenly came loose.... felt it from my shoulder to my finger tips .... just as well I was holding the gun between my knees or I would have dropped it ..... Then my hand didn't want to work for about 5minutes (stupid or what). What was even dumber is I still ran out of paint as I was doing the scuttle either way [bighmmm] It'll be interesting to see if the last coat where I was even more careful (not to run out of paint or go to fast) has removed the dry areas.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144722d1538121716-paint-f10.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144723d1538121716-paint-f11.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144724d1538121716-paint-f13.jpg

There is a little bit of crap in the paint .... It'll have blown in through the blower fan... I might try to put some sort of filter on the heater and blower fan so they don't blow anything in..... Still not much given it's painted in a shed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/144725d1538121716-paint-f14.jpg

Oh, did I mention I knocked the fuel filler flap off the table when I was sanding the bonnet and chipped the **** out of the edges of it back to bare metal.... Well I just feathered out the chips and sprayed some of that pressure pack Hi-chem super etch primer onto the edges of it. Look at that. I guess the Hi-chem stuff is also impervious to urethane coatings as well (it would have crinkled up if it wasn't).

seeya
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

28th September 2018, 06:28 PM

To put the finish of that cheap paint into perspective. This is what my Citroen CX looked like straight off the gun. Same painter (me) same spray gun, same compressor etc.... The paint is Acrylic laquer dulon.

http://shanescitshed.com/cx2500/paintcx/paint6.jpg

http://shanescitshed.com/cx2500/paintcx/paint8.jpg

This is what I hoping to avoid .... countless hours of colour sanding and polishing the top coat.

seeya,
Shane L.

350RRC

29th September 2018, 07:11 AM

I've been thinking about the roof. I'm guessing the only way to do that would be a stack of large garden pavers .... with some garden sleepers laying across them. It probably won't need to be super high if I can put it close to the car .... They would need to be down both sides of the car so I don't need to move them. The issue is you need two trestles. You can't move the one as you need to continue the wet edge in the middle of the roof. ie: not spend 5minutes moving your trestle to the other side (or the wet edge will have dried).......................

seeya,
Shane L.

Shane Aldi (at least in Drysdale) have folding stands like brickies use with planks but lighter.

Max height 1300mm, 200kg cap each, $30 each. They fold flat.

Paint looks great!

cheers, DL

DoubleChevron

29th September 2018, 09:18 AM

Shane Aldi (at least in Drysdale) have folding stands like brickies use with planks but lighter.

Max height 1300mm, 200kg cap each, $30 each. They fold flat.

Paint looks great!

cheers, DL

thanks ... I'll whip up today and see if our local store has any. They aren't in the current catalogue so hopefully they were in the last one (man ALDI have weird stuff at times!).

seeya,
Shane L

DoubleChevron

29th September 2018, 10:09 AM

DoubleChevron

29th September 2018, 01:01 PM

well that is just amazing .... I don't quite understand this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144740&d=1538189835

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144741&d=1538189835

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144742&d=1538189835

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=144743&d=1538189835

I don't get it ... other than the trash thats landed in this .... its bloody near perfect.... I just don't understand. I'll cut a ****load of corners ... around the washer jet holes on the bonnet, around under under the numberplate and its mounting holes.... There should be obvious signs of lack of prep ................ But look at it.... bloody amazing. The paint itself must have self levelled and removed quite a few marks. I really didn't do a very good job at prepping this as I figured its a 4wd ... and it just doesn't matter.

seeya
Shane L.

Homestar

29th September 2018, 01:10 PM

It looks great, so much for the **** box job - it will look bloody fantastic when it's all back together. :)

cjc_td5

29th September 2018, 01:16 PM

That is an amazing finish off the gun! Looks fantastic!

Pedro_The_Swift

29th September 2018, 01:37 PM

and now after that fantastic paint job,,

is it still gunna be treated like a ****box 4wd??[bighmmm][bigwhistle]

DoubleChevron

29th September 2018, 02:08 PM

and now after that fantastic paint job,,

is it still gunna be treated like a ****box 4wd??[bighmmm][bigwhistle]

Well given I haven't painted the body yet .......... Maybe we'll dub it the shiny ****box [biggrin] You wait ... the chance of me bolting those panels back on without scratching them is one in a million ................ Infact I don't even know how to move them from the current spot in the shed without dropping them......

Aside from that, I have never painted a car that hasn't been damaged by someone within 3weeks of it being painted ( I **** you not ). EVERY SINGLE car I have painted has been seemingly deliberately damaged before it was even fully re-assembled again. The red car you see above .... someone kicked one of its front guards in before I'd even stuck the exterior trim back on (I was parked outside of a Mc Dog**** store). I recon someone fell off there skateboard and landed feet first into the front guard of the partially disassembled car :(

I decided years ago having a "nice" car is impossible. its just an exercise in futility. Even if you never drive it and keep it stored in a shed under a cover ......... Someone always drops something against them .... or drags something down the side ... or **something** happens.

seeya,
Shane L.

350RRC

29th September 2018, 07:34 PM

Well I whipped into aldi for some bananas for the kids .... no tressles here .... Why did I go in for bananas and walk out with 4 bottles of fully synthetic mower oil (50% discounted), a bottle of chain and bar oil .... and all sorts of other bizzare crap that has nothing to do with bananas. bloody aldi, they do it to me every time.

It was worth a try though. We used to always find old discounted kids stuff at the drysdale aldi store too (we have done the 3month spring season at the portarlington caravan park several times). Because the area has a lot of retirees, the kids stuff doesn't sell out at there aldi store.

seeya,
Shane L.

Well I actually bought a couple of these things today because I knew I'd use them for something down the track.

Bit cheesy but with some 20 x 50mm speedbrace diagonals added to either side I'm happy.

You are welcome to borrow these and planks if you want, PM me a ph.number.

cheers, DL

DoubleChevron

29th September 2018, 10:39 PM

Well I actually bought a couple of these things today because I knew I'd use them for something down the track.

Bit cheesy but with some 20 x 50mm speedbrace diagonals added to either side I'm happy.

You are welcome to borrow these and planks if you want, PM me a ph.number.

cheers, DL

Thanks! I'll see if I can work something out first. I don't really want to borrow stuff, especially when its going to come back covered in dust and overspray looking very "well used" [bigwhistle] Even the shed floor has taken on a blue tinge after painting those panels.

seeya,
Shane L.

350RRC

30th September 2018, 07:08 AM

Not worried if they come back looking used.............. that's what they're for!

DL

Meccles

30th September 2018, 11:27 AM

Looks like you found a great paint though I suspect it was actually the painter great job[emoji1303]

Grumbles

30th September 2018, 12:11 PM

well that is just amazing .... I don't quite understand this.
.

I am impressed Great job......and skills. I can see it now. Double Chevrons Double Quality Car Resprays. Be a great little weekend earner. How much are you planning on charging.....? [biggrin]

DoubleChevron

1st October 2018, 10:03 AM

Oh man ... So funny. Have you guys read what I've typed. I've managed to screw up pretty much EVERYTHING I've done so far [bigsmile] [bighmmm]

The bonnet is now out under the carport out of the way. It will need to be colour sanded (bugger I was hoping to avoid that). There is a few bits of trash in it .... and one dry line you can see if you get the sun in the right spot and move your head around. I'll do better with the rest though. Talk about a "learning" process so far [bigwhistle] I might have an old cabin filter that didn't fit the car I bought it for, so I'll tape that to the back of the blower fan that is obviously introducing the fluff/dirt into the booth.

So hopefully the bonnet is the only panel I'll need to go to the effort of colour sanding. Its no big deal. I'll just run over it with some 2000grit once the car is back together.

I doubt there will be an update here for a few weeks, as I'm doing the roof next, then the body. So it'll no doubt take me several weeks.

seeya
Shane L.

Pedro_The_Swift

1st October 2018, 10:34 AM

Just dont fall off those bloody tressels!![bigrolf]

DoubleChevron

1st October 2018, 10:50 AM

Just dont fall off those bloody tressels!![bigrolf]

She'll be right .... the concrete floor will catch me nicely :) Seriously, 6 concrete pavers height seems to be the magic number. Not a big step. If I loose my balance I could just "step" off. sanding at full stretch sucks though... but is probably good exercise for my wrist :)

seeya
Shane L.

grey_ghost

12th October 2018, 07:26 PM

Shane - any updates? I need my weekly RRC fix!

rangieman

13th October 2018, 09:30 AM

Shane - any updates? I need my weekly RRC fix!
Yeah Tom needs paint porn [wink11]
:ttiwwp:

DoubleChevron

14th October 2018, 11:13 AM

I thought you guys would be getting bored to tears with me posting pictures of the same "boring" stuff over and over.

Progress has been slow as the school holidays finished, so we have something on each night of the week again. Next time I try to do anything stupid like paint a 4wd roof ..... Can someone hand me a tin of matt black paint and say "remember last time" ................... No wonder every disco I/II and range rover classic I see has stuffed paint on the roof .... or a matt black roof ............ or a vinyl wrapped roof ... Simply because .... Damn its a lot of work. Not only is it out of reach, it is bloody enormous, there is probably more work in sanding the roof than there is in all of the verticle panels on the car (and with the other panels, you can actually see progress when your sanding ... .eg: You can actually complete sanding a panel if you spend a couple of hours at it).

I was going to finish off the roof today, and paint it this afternoon. but there was gusty north winds when I woke up today. I just checked the weather report.... strong winds until wednesday. I can actually see all of the pollen and leaves blowing in the air sitting inside looking out the windows, so there is no way I'm spraying wet paint in this (It'll end up full of trash). I'll just get the roof reading to paint and do it wednesday when the wind stops.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145176&d=1539475252

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145177&d=1539475252

This is how we sit at the moment. Look at the mess I've made.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145178&d=1539475252
Oh man, I'd forgotten that ... Where can I get the range rover version of this for the range rover [bigrolf]

DoubleChevron

14th October 2018, 11:34 AM

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145184&d=1539475252

This gives an idea about the work and hours that have gone into sanding the roof.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145185&d=1539475252

There is an enormous about of time in the pressings in the roof ... the white stuff is that spot putty.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145186&d=1539475252

The long thin board is perfect for doing the recessed areas... see what it picks up ... note: the spot putty is so thin, you can see the guide coat through it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145187&d=1539475252

Its the "long" blocks that are the problem. They pick up so many marks. Those white bits of spot putty you see will be see through when sanded... that's how thin it goes on. It takes FOREVER to sand level with the long block. To put into perspective how long it is. the square block at the back is a standard sanding block. To sand out any marks with a long block you are blocking an enormous area of paint down. In theory you should end up with a really straight panel I guess.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145183&d=1539475252

Look what blocking the roof has picked up around the stampings. I bet there is small dents here on every roof from the factory. When the putty is sanded, it'll be so thin its see through. I'm going to be interested to see what this roof looks like when its painted. As its taken quite a bit of effort to get to this point. Insane for a panel you can't see unless your standing on a ladder!

bblaze

14th October 2018, 11:57 AM

and I thought you were throwing a rough coat of paint on, now ya painting a show car[smilebigeye]

cheers
blaze

DoubleChevron

14th October 2018, 12:33 PM

and I thought you were throwing a rough coat of paint on, now ya painting a show car[smilebigeye]

cheers
blaze

No ... you'll still see plenty of stuff not done right.... This is really the starting point for a good paint job..... "Near enough" says me. I just know anything obvious like I have photographed .... annoys the crap out of you everytime you look at the car in the future if you don't fix it ( if you find it). No-one else will see it, but your eyes will always go straight to it!

seeya,
Shane L

bblaze

14th October 2018, 12:50 PM

No ... you'll still see plenty of stuff not done right.... This is really the starting point for a good paint job..... "Near enough" says me. I just know anything obvious like I have photographed .... annoys the crap out of you everytime you look at the car in the future if you don't fix it ( if you find it). No-one else will see it, but your eyes will always go straight to it!

seeya,
Shane L

big yes, been there and done it. My dad said to me when I started painting cars
if you see it or feel it, fix it because there is plenty you will miss.
cheers
blaze

dungarover

15th October 2018, 12:08 PM

DoubleChevron

15th October 2018, 03:16 PM

You have a lot more patience than me, I have **** all of it. if I want to paint a car it's a rough as guts job usually in matt black or in hammer-tone type paint cheap and simple [bigsmile]

If it all goes to **** and it's not too your liking, you can always say it looks good from the road [biggrin][biggrin][biggrin]

Trav

That's not the half of it .... gee the panels I've painted are bloody bright .... If they were any bloody brighter they would glow in the dark. I sure picked as, um ... "different" colour [bigrolf]

Oh well, it could be a hideous salmon pink like the car parked behind it.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

20th October 2018, 05:41 PM

Well I have been "learning" at lot again ................ if only the bloody lessons would take, and I'd stop making the same damn mistake over and over and over ......................... and .................... well you get the idea :)

I was tinkering in the shed last night at about 10:30 pm .... it must have still been 20degrees outside ... dead still... and there wasn't any bugs hanging around the lights in the shed. Being really smart I figured this would be a great time to throw some paint at that roof http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/smilies/crazy.gif

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145317&d=1540017218

That blower fan ... Yeah, the filter doesn't work. It cut the airflow by about 80% taping that to it .... SO no air filtration ... It'll be fine right ? [bighmmm]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145318&d=1540017218

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145319&d=1540017218

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145320&d=1540017218

I practiced walking up and down the planks beside the car for five minutes pretending I was painting. I found if I chucked hte air lines over my shoulder, I could reach to the middle without rubbing against the side of the roof.

Of course, I tested the gun, it sprayed for 5 seconds and spluttered to a stop ................. http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/smilies/cussing.gif I had the tip and needle and seat soaking in reducer and had flushed reducer through the gun after last using it ... But it appears paint still dries to a fine "slime" inside the head of the gun and can block it up when re-assembled. You must need to pull the things to bits and soak the entire head of the gun in reducer to flush all activated paint out ....

Anyway, try again ........... concentrating my hardest on moving as slowly as possible so I hose the paint on like that other panels, and don't end up with dry lines through it (anything to avoid having to colour sand such a large panel).

DoubleChevron

20th October 2018, 05:56 PM

Can you see them .... I didn't spot them until after I put the first coat on......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145321d1540018328-paint-aa1.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145322d1540018328-paint-aa2.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145323d1540018328-paint-aa3.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145324d1540018328-paint-aa4.jpg

RUN >>>> Bloody incredible ... spectacular .... ENORMOUS runs .... I can't see the paint going on for some reason, even with all those lights.... So didn't see these until I came back to do the second coat. The photos don't show them very well..... But WOW .... If your going to do something. You might as well do it properly http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/mallet.gif

Yeah, the paint must be a LOT thinner when its 20degrees rather than 10degrees in outside .... so it sprays heavier. I did put another couple of coats on as the paint was already mixed.... but wow .... RUNS!

The fix for this was very obvious. I turned the compressors off ... switched the lights off and went inside and raided the beer in fridge

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

20th October 2018, 06:08 PM

Anyway, i figured I'd need to block it back and spray one level coat without runs on today. Before i went outside I hit youtube with "sanding paint runs from single stage paint" .... The seppo's call this paint "single stage".... and this popped up ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn6nPky0HGs

Hmmm...... Maybe I could try that and not have to repaint the roof.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145325d1540019105-paint-aa5.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145326d1540019105-paint-aa6.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145327d1540019105-paint-aa7.jpg

Wow runs even on the masking paper!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145329&d=1540019105

Well it highlights all the damn runs I put in it eitherway. There is quite a bit of trash in the roof now I have had a look in daylight, so it needs to be colour sanded either way (I was trying to avoid doing this with such a big panel!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145329&d=1540019105
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145328d1540019105-paint-aa8.jpg

Oh, this would be why I couldn't see the paint running .... Its like looking through glasses that have vasoline smeered over the lenses. I need to either clean or replace the plastic on the mask.

DoubleChevron

20th October 2018, 06:19 PM

So... That youtube video ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145329&d=1540019577

Yeah no bugs ... Smart right ??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145330&d=1540019577

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145331&d=1540019577

I'll be damned ... that youtube clip ... It bloody works!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145332&d=1540019801

except this one spot ... I couldn't understand how I cut through like that .......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145333&d=1540019801

until I spotted this ... see the rolled up bits of paint. the run was so deep, it wasn't cured at the bottom and I "dragged" the paint off in little balls with the paper.

DoubleChevron

20th October 2018, 06:26 PM

This is why I wanted to use a solid colour though ... Easy repairs if it gets damaged ( it is a 4wd after all ). So I guess this is a good opportunity to see if I can readily touch the paint up. How do I mix up a tiny amount of paint and get the measurements right though ?? What I needed was the equivalent of a really small soup ladle................. So I whipped inside and grabbed one of those childrens medicine cups ( ssshhhh.... boss women doesn't need to know ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145336&d=1540020346

We will see how it blends in when I hit the roof with some cutters.

Vern

20th October 2018, 06:44 PM

DoubleChevron

20th October 2018, 07:20 PM

And heres me thinking i will just get a heap of colour coded rattle cans for the county, but now seeing this i feel guilty, think i will dig out the old spray gun and atleast do a half ass'd effort. May be.

Your life will probably match everyone else ... ie: they say "look what i did" ... and everything just works ?? Me, I stuff everything up 15 times ... go in circles, waste paint .... break stuff .... Certainly my life is no car show where they "restore" a car in a weekend.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145341d1540023033-paint-aa16.jpg

Even bloody sandpaper ... that stuff is trying to be difficult ... its disintegrating while I use it ........... ( er, well I guess all the 400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 that was sitting around in the shed is at least 10 years old [bigwhistle] ). Yes, life would be easy if you could just drive to the paint shop and get more, but they are shut outside of business hours.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145342d1540023033-paint-aa17.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145343d1540023033-paint-aa18.jpg

The 400 I used to cut back the spot putty covering the run is quite aggressive.... and I wasn't sure what paper to use to colour sand this stuff...

Wetsanding single stage paint | The H.A.M.B. (https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wetsanding-single-stage-paint.610512/)

So I hit google.... Hmmm, 1000 sounds the go. So I hit all the spots with runs first with 600, then 800 ..... now I'm working my way over the roof with 1000, then 1500, then 2000 grit.

145344145345

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145344d1540023414-paint-aa19.jpg

weirdly most of the dirt and crap has fallen into the middle of the roof. I'm not touching the stampings pressed into the roof. If there is dirt in them it can stay there (to much risk you'll cut through the colour to sand that level .... Plus I really can't be bothered.... Unless your 7foot tall you will not see the roof with the wheels back on). I'm also only knocking the "hills" of the dirt, I'm not sanding the colour down until its perfectly flat like you would for a mirror finish.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145345d1540023414-paint-aa20.jpg

The roof has come up really straight. Its looks shiny under the lights even after being sanded with 2000.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

20th October 2018, 09:38 PM

What cutting compound do you guys use .... I can't find mine .... and I have looked. I usually use the 3M heavy cutters followed by there super fine cutters............ But there is nowhere around to buy this. I'd like to finish the roof tomorrow and throw the wheels back on and never look at the roof again (unless I'm on a house roof or similar :) ) ......... I've just been looking at autobarn/supercheap online, and they only sell crap at hugely inflated prices that wouldnt' be any good for compounding a sanded finish.

I'm keen to finish the roof ASAP as it'll no doubt turn to stone and be really hard to finish if I let it sit around for another week ( Oh the bonnet ..... well bugger it I guess I'm going to find how hard it cures when i do that).

seeya,
Shane L.

Meccles

21st October 2018, 07:20 PM

Your life will probably match everyone else ... ie: they say "look what i did" ... and everything just works ?? Me, I stuff everything up 15 times ... go in circles, waste paint .... break stuff .... Certainly my life is no car show where they "restore" a car in a weekend.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145341d1540023033-paint-aa16.jpg

Even bloody sandpaper ... that stuff is trying to be difficult ... its disintegrating while I use it ........... ( er, well I guess all the 400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 that was sitting around in the shed is at least 10 years old [bigwhistle] ). Yes, life would be easy if you could just drive to the paint shop and get more, but they are shut outside of business hours.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145342d1540023033-paint-aa17.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145343d1540023033-paint-aa18.jpg

The 400 I used to cut back the spot putty covering the run is quite aggressive.... and I wasn't sure what paper to use to colour sand this stuff...

Wetsanding single stage paint | The H.A.M.B. (https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wetsanding-single-stage-paint.610512/)

So I hit google.... Hmmm, 1000 sounds the go. So I hit all the spots with runs first with 600, then 800 ..... now I'm working my way over the roof with 1000, then 1500, then 2000 grit.

145344145345

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145344d1540023414-paint-aa19.jpg

weirdly most of the dirt and crap has fallen into the middle of the roof. I'm not touching the stampings pressed into the roof. If there is dirt in them it can stay there (to much risk you'll cut through the colour to sand that level .... Plus I really can't be bothered.... Unless your 7foot tall you will not see the roof with the wheels back on). I'm also only knocking the "hills" of the dirt, I'm not sanding the colour down until its perfectly flat like you would for a mirror finish.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145345d1540023414-paint-aa20.jpg

The roof has come up really straight. Its looks shiny under the lights even after being sanded with 2000.

seeya,
Shane L.

Bloody good jobs well done! [emoji106]

DoubleChevron

21st October 2018, 09:07 PM

Bloody good jobs well done! [emoji106]

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif

Did you miss the bit at the start of those posts .... Just the first 99.9% of the posts and pictures where I said "I have screwed up again and made a bloody great mess of everything"

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/graemlins/rolllaugh.gif

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145360&d=1540116010

I have a variety of 3 foam buffs here (different grades) ... and this is what happened when I tried to use any of them... I guess they are 10years old now too .... sigh ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145361&d=1540116010

So that only leaves the big on lambs wool buffing pad. These are very aggresive and will leave scratching. I also won't go near any edges with it ... So until I chase up some more foam buffs this is what it will look like around the edges.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145362&d=1540116010

This is the closest cutters I could find at auto-barn... but not really the right stuff.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145359&d=1540116010

I've decided I'll just forget the damn roof for now and move on. If I can see it from the ground I'll probably come back and give it a good going over to remove the scratching ... but for now, out of sight out of mind ( this is what I was trying to avoid, all the work of colour sanding ... then spending hours behind a buffer removing the sanding scratches). It looks nice in pictures, but will look really scratchy from different angles until i come back and finish it properly.

seeya,
Shane L

Meccles

21st October 2018, 09:11 PM

No Shane it was precisely because you said that that I think well done. I mean I have now useless Mercedes seats on gumtree a floor I’ve had the great pleasure of fitting twice several sets of seat bases two distributors etc etc. So don’t fell that your the only one [emoji3]

DoubleChevron

28th October 2018, 05:34 PM

I wish the crap stuff just worked for me like it does for everyone else .... First I found the tip compressor has died ( its time for it to go back to the tip I guess ). Its crankcase has no oil in it .... So something must have died in it ... and it's all must have ended up in the receiver... ( where else could it go ).

145506145507145508145509

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145506d1540707682-paint-1.jpg

SO I grabbed my fathers little oilless compressor ... these things are loud as buggery, generate bugger all air that is hot.... You have to be careful to take shallow breaths so your not breathing more air than it supplies (or your getting fumes from the local area).

Anyway, I mix up some paint ... er ................ I can't unscrew the lid on the guns pot .... I rinsed all this stuff in reducer. So I stuffed around for ages... I ended up tapping the lid with a panel hammer before I could unscrew it ( This crap only happens to me right ? What can you do except laugh at yourself).... Anyway I pour the paint into the pot ................................... bloody paint EVERYWHERE .... What the hell ?? I had cracked the plastic pot trying to hold it while attempting to remove the lid............. So now the guns covered in sticky paint, my boots and the floor is covered in paint ( this is what we do to wind down and relax you see ). You guys must be starting to think I make this **** up...

Anyway, I pull the pot from a $15.00 ebay gun I have there that I'd sprayed body deadener through in the past and screwed that on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145508d1540707682-paint-3.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145509d1540707682-paint-4.jpg

I tried to get a photo of it .... Can you see the run down the side of the car ?? I was travelling 50% faster than I did for the earlier panels .... Why the hell am I struggling? I ended up travelling twice as fast with the gun as I did for the earlier panels to avoid runs. There is probably dry lines in it too (so it'll have to be colour sanded). You see that god damn compressor kept stopping, so I'd need to vacate the paint area .... it would then work again 5minutes later. It must have been tripping a temperature overload. (aarrrhhhh.... just to make everything easier [bighmmm] )

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145507d1540707682-paint-2.jpg

It occurred to me what was going on when I mixed the very last pot of paint.... I was bloody sweltering ... the was sweat running down my back ... down my face and into the bottom of the mask. Its only 20degrees outside.... But those shed doors have the north sun on them all day. That bench is against hte doors. The paint is REALLY THIN as it is probably 30degrees easily in those tins against that door. When I painted the other panels it would have been eight degrees (the paints temperature). I instantly remember the guys at the paint shop warning me "the professionals that use this stuff have said they don't add reducer as its a bit thin to paint" ............................... OHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...... I shouldn't have added the reducer, only the hardner.

DoubleChevron

28th October 2018, 05:40 PM

Anyway, other than I've put a run down the left side of the car ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145510&d=1540708530

There is a bit of orange peel there ..... I reckoned if I'd added no reducer, I could have put more on without it running ... and it would level better.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145511&d=1540708530

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145512&d=1540708530

These came up ok given how quick and dodgy I did this ... that is the drivers door and rear quarter panel that I to fix quite a few marks in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145513&d=1540708530

I guess I'll throw the wheels back on and see if that tape will pull away after being stuck to the car for so long later tonight.

seeya
Shane L

rar110

28th October 2018, 08:06 PM

Nice colour. Hate to say it but easier to stick with original colour unless original is metallic maybe.

I killed a compressor on the last/first big spray job.

rar110

28th October 2018, 08:18 PM

My next spray job if I ever get the time to start.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181028/55d9f92ce4131df66aabf2afb38cea26.jpg

Enjoying this thread also. Nice work. I feel your frustration.

DoubleChevron

28th October 2018, 08:24 PM

Nice colour. Hate to say it but easier to stick with original colour unless original is metallic maybe.

I killed a compressor on the last/first big spray job.

way easier to stay with the original colour... it was an ugly "pre-faded" metallic blue.... Now its a bloody hideously bright flat blue [bigrolf] [bigrolf] I wanted to stay with blue ... but not a darker colour as I'd have to put to much time and effort into the prep (dark colours show everything). Oh well, at least I shouldn't lose the thing in carparks (is this colour the equivalent of safety yellow [bigsmile1] ). Hopefully the middle aged women that keep trying to wipe me out can see it now (they sure don't see the dark blue Citroen I've been driving).

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

28th October 2018, 09:51 PM

My next spray job if I ever get the time to start.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181028/55d9f92ce4131df66aabf2afb38cea26.jpg

Enjoying this thread also. Nice work. I feel your frustration.

I'd love one of them .... Just looking at that roof makes my arms and hands ache .......... The HOURS ... DAYS of work in stripping, filling, sanding ... and more sanding .... and more sanding .... and yet more sanding ................ Makes me want to give it a good wash and just start motoring! You gotta love "patina" :D Defenders shouldn't be shiny should they [bigsmile1]

I sure would recommend a bucket of that cheap paint I've used on it though. Its very cheap, even I've manage to er ... "sort of" apply it ( almost every issue I've had has been my own doing ).

seeya
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

29th October 2018, 05:42 PM

So I just got home from work and pushed the shiny ****box out of the shed so I could clean up a bit. this is what it looks like from the house. The kids to one look and said "is that a fluorescent colour ? " .... the wife looks through the window and say "wow stylish" .... ( she wasn't being sarcastic ... really she wasn't [bighmmm] ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145535&d=1540795245

Surely the middle aged women that keep trying to wipe me out can see THAT coming down the roads... the damn thing probably glows in the dark ... and its the size and shape of a chook shed.

seeya,
Shane L

Meccles

29th October 2018, 06:02 PM

I can’t see a S....bx anywhere[emoji848]looks pretty bloody good and will stand out.

jsp

30th October 2018, 05:33 PM

that looks awesome :) I'm planning that color for a two door.

What are you plans for the alloys?

DoubleChevron

30th October 2018, 09:52 PM

that looks awesome :) I'm planning that color for a two door.

What are you plans for the alloys?

standard grey alloys .... I like the look of the standard steel wheels on them ... but alloys is what I have :) I think I'll go with the "classic" look. no plastic spoiler or fog lights (I have no need for them) and nice satin black bars front and back. There is no exposed hinges anywhere, but it is what it is :) certainly these later cars seem to drive a lot nicer on the road than the earlier ones (more power, nicer gearboxes, more sound insulation .etc.... They tried to make them feel more upper market).

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

31st October 2018, 09:38 AM

that looks awesome :) I'm planning that color for a two door.

What are you plans for the alloys?

THere is heaps of piccies on the net of the early 2doors in this colour ...

http://www.classicrangerovers.com/uploads/9/8/5/5/9855001/5290111_orig.jpg

The 1985 Range Rover I used to had, had those wheels painted a nice metalic/perl looking colour that was not quite silver. I reckoned they looked better than the alloy wheels ( but hey, that's just me ).

Vern

31st October 2018, 11:17 AM

When i used to help a mate in his panel shop, we only ever used lambs wool buffs, never had an issue. Would hand polish after that.

DoubleChevron

31st October 2018, 02:01 PM

When i used to help a mate in his panel shop, we only ever used lambs wool buffs, never had an issue. Would hand polish after that.

I probably haven't even washed a car in 5years.... So just imagine how practiced I am at using a rotary buff. In the hands of an expert the lambwool buff would be fine to go over everything. In my hands, I'm going nowhere near corners or edges ( as I'll no doubt burn straight through). the foam buffs are far more forgiving to beginners :)

seeya,
Shane L.

Baggy

31st October 2018, 03:42 PM

Shane,

Like Meccles says .... she aint no ****box.

Once you've cleaned the windows ... refitted bumpers in satin black... door locks ... side moldings etc it will break up the bright blue colour ... it really does suit the classic shape.

Your hard work will reap its rewards and I'm sure you will be chuffed with the overall finish.

Watching with interest ...

Baggy

DoubleChevron

3rd November 2018, 12:07 PM

Well I refitted a couple of door handles so I could at least feel like we are re-assembling so I can drive the thing .... rather than still pulling apart :) But only two door handles was as far as I got before I decided I had to look at the skuttle again so I at least feel like this thing can be re-assembled as I get time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145669&d=1541206781

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145670&d=1541206781

You know, the only reason the skuttles rust, is the factory did an absolutely ****house job at assembling them.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145671&d=1541206781

This is the drain hole at each side of the skuttle. Note: No seam sealer sealing it ... the water runs straight into the underbonnet area rather than out the drain hole.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145677&d=1541206980

See the tiny hole in the center of the skuttle .... this is the drrain hole in the middle. Note: How much higher it is than the rust hole beside it. Yes, the drain hole is not the lowest point ( smart right ). I reckon the seam sealer is supposed to lift the level of the lower skuttle to the height of this drain hole, so the drain hole should be the lowest point.

DoubleChevron

3rd November 2018, 12:28 PM

I **** you not .... all of the skuttle issues seem to be the factory only appling a token splash of seam sealer :(https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145678&d=1541207439

This is the top edge of the scuttle where the seam sealer doesn't matter .... but look at the gaps! I think the workers in the factory might have been ****ed off with there job the day this one was built [bigsmile1]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145679&d=1541207439

it really is just laughable ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145680&d=1541206781

it gets better though, that "too high" drain point at the middle. This is it from above. Where the bulge is.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145681&d=1541207439

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145682&d=1541207439

This is both sides of the bulge ..................... Yes they dammed the damn thing with body sealer. The middle area of the scuttle would always "pool" at lest 3mm of water that couldn't drain away in any direction! Bloody good job they did there ( what can you do but laugh [bigrolf] )

There actually isn't an easy fix to repair this rust "properly". It would need to be patched. I can't see a way of unpicking the scuttle and replacing it with one that feature less rust. What I'm going to do is wire brush the **** out of it. Give it a good clean and use polyurethane sealer (like I've used on caravans in the past) to seam seal the scuttle. I'll apply it thickly enough to build the lower scuttle upto the height of that drain hole (ie: at least 2mm thick).

Selleys 600ml White Flexiseal Polyurethane Sealant | Bunnings Warehouse (https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-600ml-white-flexiseal-polyurethane-sealant_p1210365)

https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9624bbdf022e3b5395236d5cf8.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.c om/Product/863b79eb-655b-447b-9dfb-d0783e410ed6.jpg

this is the stuff I'll use. It doesn't tool very nicely, but I don't really care, so long as it works.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

3rd November 2018, 12:41 PM

The car also gets hot as hell in the transmission tunnel, especially when towing (this ****box is usually either towing something or hurtling down bush tracks)... so I figure I'd better insulate it somehow.

145683145684145685

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145683&d=1541209082

I still have a couple of rolls of this stuff here. It does work quite well for what it is.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145684&d=1541209082

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145685&d=1541209082

I'll clean this as well as I can, and glue it on. To make sure it can't fall off and end up on the gearbox/tcase ... or exhaust ( :eek: ) I might put 1/2 dozen of the smallest rivnuts through it with a big washer to hold it in place (its bacially weightless so anything will hold it).

Then I'll just need to figure out a way of stopping the heat coming through the gearbox lever rubber gasket.

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar

3rd November 2018, 01:10 PM

DoubleChevron

3rd November 2018, 01:34 PM

Interestingly enough when I had the scuttle panel of mine a year or so ago I was sure it would be toast as the vehicle has lived outside its whole life but it was immaculate to my surprise. I cleaned out the drain holes, cleaned the years of accumulated dirt out of it and put it back together.

I bet yours was seam sealed properly at the factory. They really shouldn't rust! ......................... If there assembled right :)

dungarover

3rd November 2018, 01:48 PM

DoubleChevron

3rd November 2018, 06:55 PM

Yeah I was right .... I really suck at applying this stuff and making it look ok.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145699&d=1541231466

Hmm.... maybe I should have whipped up and purchased a tube in black .... [bighmmm]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145701&d=1541231466

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145702&d=1541231466

I sealed the upper edge as well.... Look at that, it is required so moisture can't get down into the seams.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145703&d=1541231466

What a bloody mess!!!!

Oh well, it sure shouldn't leak now!

seeya
Shane L.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145704&d=1541231466

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145705&d=1541231466

DoubleChevron

3rd November 2018, 08:10 PM

All of the Rangie classics I've owned it's the later (about 91 onwards) that seem to rust in the firewall area, behind the air con pipes 99% of the time as well. As a guess they used thinner steel on later models as my 2 door Rangie firell is rust free and the only welding to do is to fill in holes where the aftermarket air con was fitted :soapbox:.

Trav

I'm betting if you pull the scuttle ,................ None of the seams are sealed, so if the car ever gets wet, water settles down in all the seams until it rusts a path through to ground.

DoubleChevron

4th November 2018, 02:53 PM

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/145699d1541231466-paint-u1.jpg

Those heater hoses.... Are they easy to change later on ( or should I do that while its apart). I keep getting bitten by rubber parts. I not keen to fit new hoses if the rubber in them is so bloody woeful they fail within 6months :(

seeya
Shane L.

Meccles

4th November 2018, 07:28 PM

Meccles

4th November 2018, 07:33 PM

This is good showing how to use. Ok it’s a bathroom not RRC but you get the idea[emoji2957]
YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DI4hfHM_Hg)

LRJim

4th November 2018, 08:56 PM

Shane you’re as good with sealant as I am which is to say crap[emoji3]but recently brought the Cramer Fuji silicone shaping tool set its awesome- and cheap. EBay only not sold in Oz.
Cramer 5-fugi kit Fugi Kit Grouting & Silicone Profiling & Applicator Tool Kit 4027316404052 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cramer-5-fugi-kit-Fugi-Kit-Grouting-Silicone-Profiling-Applicator-Tool-Kit-/180700829474)$2.50 at bunnings for 4, they have 16 profiles it total. Nothing beats watered down Windex and an icy pole stick though.
This stuff is polyurethane though same as sikaflex, there is no real neat way to apply it. Some spray helps smooth it but it still a PITA.
Cheers Jim

DoubleChevron

5th November 2018, 11:09 AM

$2.50 at bunnings for 4, they have 16 profiles it total. Nothing beats watered down Windex and an icy pole stick though.
This stuff is polyurethane though same as sikaflex, there is no real neat way to apply it. Some spray helps smooth it but it still a PITA.
Cheers Jim

The polyurethane is much harder to tool. I have a set of silicon tools.... There a waste of time IMO .... Your finger works better ..... (at least that is what I find). Silicon tools a lot nicer than the urethanes. There isn't a snowmans chance in hell I'm going near a car with silicon though! This stuff will no doubt last the life of the car. It mightn't look flash, but it doesn't look much worse than the factory seam sealer that looks like it was put on with a yard broom!

It'll look lovely once everything is back in covering it all either way [bighmmm] I have painted the area ... with a decent killrust type paint. I don't care what it looks like, I want structural integrity and no more rust over "pretty" anyday! The scuttle panel, A/C hoses, firewall insulating blanket etc.... cover 97.85% of the area I have painted/sealed.

A part of the reason I get the finish so bad is I'm pushing the sealer down into the crevice. I"m not interested in running a "pretty" bead across the top. I'm filling every seem and void with that stuff. I have the same issue when I work on caravans. I "squeeze" the sealer out as I assemble.... Which leaves a ****house finish. But I 100% guarantee it'll never leak. Assemble it then run a pretty bead of silicon down the edges, and it'll look pretty .................. but almost always leak like a sieve :(

The reason I pulled the pedal box is I realised I was a pedal short .... We need a clutch!

seeya,
Shane L.

LRJim

5th November 2018, 11:21 AM

The polyurethane is much harder to tool. I have a set of silicon tools.... There a waste of time IMO .... Your finger works better ..... (at least that is what I find). Silicon tools a lot nicer than the urethanes. There isn't a snowmans chance in hell I'm going near a car with silicon though! This stuff will no doubt last the life of the car. It mightn't look flash, but it doesn't look much worse than the factory seam sealer that looks like it was put on with a yard broom!

It'll look lovely once everything is back in covering it all either way [bighmmm] I have painted the area ... with a decent killrust type paint. I don't care what it looks like, I want structural integrity and no more rust over "pretty" anyday! The scuttle panel, A/C hoses, firewall insulating blanket etc.... cover 97.85% of the area I have painted/sealed.

A part of the reason I get the finish so bad is I'm pushing the sealer down into the crevice. I"m not interested in running a "pretty" bead across the top. I'm filling every seem and void with that stuff. I have the same issue when I work on caravans. I "squeeze" the sealer out as I assemble.... Which leaves a ****house finish. But I 100% guarantee it'll never leak. Assemble it then run a pretty bead of silicon down the edges, and it'll look pretty .................. but almost always leak like a sieve :(

The reason I pulled the pedal box is I realised I was a pedal short .... We need a clutch!

seeya,
Shane L.Dw I know it's a PITA I used to use it all the bloody time, tooling it neat between tilt panels is a nightmare. And some one always sticks their finger in it, glad I don't have to smooth anymore I just use it as a sealant. I found warming the sausages up helps with smoothing and it's easier to gun but it loses its slump. If their cold you can build it up but yeah harder to gun.
Anyway looking awsome [emoji106]
Cheers Jim

DoubleChevron

5th November 2018, 05:48 PM

This stuff is very strange.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145779&d=1541400195

I spent bloody ages trying to mix it .... It stayed a blue colour with "rainbows" of unmixed "stuff" through it.... very weird.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145780&d=1541400195

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145781&d=1541400195

very strange .... these water based killrust paints seem to work really well (I wanted something decent to brush on ... I'm not interested in finish or brush marks... I want "sealed" and "no more rust".

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145782&d=1541400195

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=145783&d=1541400195

It did dry black though .... So it must be the way the stuff works. Bizare or what!

seeya,
Shane L.

jsp

5th November 2018, 06:26 PM

I'm watching your thread with interest.
I started another project a few weeks back and started with the idea that I can patch a few bits here and there but the rust along all the seams in the firewall is just starting and after finding the front seat bases welded down due to rusted out bolt mounts I have given up and am going to write off the body and cut a new front half in from a donor.
I'm watching your thread for how you tackle allot of the niggles I have and you do it so well :) you must be pouring time in! Your doing a great job!

145784

DoubleChevron

5th November 2018, 09:05 PM

bikeman

19th November 2018, 07:52 PM

Hi Shane, I have been following your work from the start. A great transformation, you have put a lot of time and effort into this project. Have you any photos of the finished Rangie??
Cheers,
Phil.

DoubleChevron

20th November 2018, 10:00 AM

Hi Shane, I have been following your work from the start. A great transformation, you have put a lot of time and effort into this project. Have you any photos of the finished Rangie??
Cheers,
Phil.

Not a lot is happening. I'm pulling the bent car apart so I can have my choice of "bits" to use for the re-assembly. The shiny ****box should end up with a Disco serpentine belt 3.9, R380 and LT230. I also want to do stuff like change the injector seals, re-route the heater hoses so the lpg converter gets full flow ( the things always freeze up under full load, especially on cold mornings).... and also run any/all of the extra wiring/cable through the firewall and get some proper bungs in there to stop smells/heat getting into the car.

Then I'll peal off any existing ( manky ) oil soaked firewall and bonnet blankets and replace with that insulation. I have two bonnet blankets and they are both no good (they have collapsed in the middle and touch the motor when the bonnet is shut).

I'm also adding a cheap ***wired*** reverse camera so that I can back upto trailers without having to get and and check 20times to see if I'm lined up [bighmmm]

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

22nd November 2018, 09:47 AM

Well I now know one thing. If you play with those deteriorated bonnet sound blankets to try and make a pattern out of them ................ You will be itchy for bloody hours [bighmmm] Those suckers must be full of glass type particles like the old insulation bats were years ago. I still need to pull the firewall insulation off and trace it out (however it'll probably come off is small oil soaked chunks).

seeya,
Shane L.

bikeman

22nd November 2018, 09:50 PM

Glass fibers.... modern day asbestos....

350RRC

23rd November 2018, 09:00 PM

Glass fibers.... modern day asbestos....

Simply untrue. FG fibres are way, way bigger in diameter than asbestos. Impossible to have the same effect.

There are other risks, but not the same as asbestos.

FG has been around since the 1950's and any cancer causing issue from its use would have been identified well before now.

I've actively used and researched it since I was 14, 46 years ago.

DL

incisor

24th November 2018, 11:52 AM

Cotton is way worse than FG yet you rarely hear about it

DoubleChevron

25th November 2018, 09:01 PM

Well this is the current state of the shiny ****box. I'm taking so long as the damn thing was in so many parts to start with. I'd pulled it apart to get the A/C bits out, the transfer case ... the 'CVs are out of it. The panhard rod is removed ... its "somewhere". When I fitted new bushes to the other one and the panhard flogged out in about 3weeks ( gee's I've had a gutfull of the **** quality rubber these days ). So i grabbed the panhard rod from this one so I could keep driving.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146334&d=1543139262

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146335&d=1543139262

The problem with it being in so many bits is I feel obligated to "fix everything" before re-assembly. Where as if it was together I'd just drive the damn thing. I'm starting to think I'm going to have to buy another car so I have something to drive ( 5 isn't enough right ? ).... Maybe six is the magic number ?

Lets see about 3 years ago I just stopped tinkering with them or driving them and found a ****box range rover to drive that could tow a caravan. So I have.

1) Citroen CX2500 GTi Turbo ... The heater box is out, I've rebuilt the front suspension but need to finish it off by fitting new tieroad arms/joints (its steering very crooked until they are fitted and its aligned).
2) 1963 ID19 .. .the ugly pink car. This is my project car ... no roof, leaky suspension boots ... heaps of fun to drive... No money to spend on it to fix it.
3) 1963 ID19 ... this car was given to me. At the moment I can just drive it. It needs work, but runs and drives fine.
4) 1950's Traction Avant. I have its gearbox in bits to rebuild.
5) 1992 Range Rover.

So I fix up the Rangie for the trip, fix up a caravan for the trip. We are away for 3'ish months last year. While we are away a water hose in the roof of the house bursts ... and floods the house from the top down. So back home to a HUGE job. We are out of the house until nearly christmas last year. Finally a few months into the new year, I have access to my sheds again ... Then I tip the ****box range rover on its side ( sigh ).... then 2 weeks later some drunk women wipes it out..... Then 2 weeks later I break my wrist pretty badly ..... So nothing to drive and I can work on cars.

So I buy a bunch of batteries and fit to the cars. The ugly pink cars fires up and the arse end falls out of the exhaust. I back it out of the shed and wash the dust off. Can't drive it 'cos its raining and it has no roof. The CX ... fit a battery... it fires right up, I back it out of the shed.... and its leaking bloody everywhere... with a broken wrist I can't really fix the leaks (just perished return lines). the traction still has its gearbox in bits. I can't drive the blue ID19 as it doesn't have power steering, so I can't turn the steering wheel.....

Fast forward a couple of months, I have the ****box rangies in bits. The CX has sheered a rear anti-rollbar bolt and is costing me a bloody fortune in leaking hydraulic fluid... but I can finally turn the steering wheel in the blue ID19 so I start driving it .... well thursday it made a horrible sound as I pulled out of a carpark and headed into town ( so much so I shut it down straight away and coasted to a halt in a service road). Hmmmm... i pop the bonnet and fire it back up from the external solenoid under the bonnet ...... and do a bloody frantic sprint for the key inside to turn it off..... The motor sounds like it has a heavy death knock ... the big ends are being hammered to bits.... :o :o ... The damn thing must have no oil in it!!! So I pull the dipstick .... hmmm... full...... They aren't known for stripping oil pump drives or anything... So I gingerly hit the starter solenoid again.... No go ... bloody scary death noises.... I press the clutch as I climb in to shut it back down.......... Oh ... sound changes a lot (almost goes away). So I quickly shut it off, the flywheel or clutch must be about to fall out (at least that is what I'm hoping). I'm guessing whoever assembled it didn't use bloody locktite ... sigh...

So I ring the boss women, she is really happy "What are you going to drive now ............................. How are you going to get it home". Oh .......... the ****box rangie is still in bits ... I ring my father "Do you feel like rescuing a car" ....................... sigh. Then I find the bloody traction is sitting on the car trailer, so half a day messing around to get the blue ID19 home.

So now I have.

1) ****box Rangie in a thousand bits
2) Blue ID19 ... needs the gearbox removed to check clutch/heavy knocking noise.
3) Traction Avant ... has the gearbox extracted and in bits
4) Ugly Pink ID19 ... needs exhaust... needs hydraulic boots .... and has no roof fitted (I like it that way). You will know things are desperatley criticle when you see that around town with a roof refitted (ie: I'm down the very last possible car that can move under its own power)
5) The CX ... Actually the only thing I've purchased for this car in the last 5 years in a new clutch slave boot as it was leaking........ I'll give you one god damn guess where that thing is leaking ****loads of fluid from after just spending 1/2 hour laying under it ....................... Yes, that new clutch slave boot. Why is everything made of rubber **** quality these days? How does such a small leak, drain so much hydraulic fluid in such a short time ... ARRRRhhhhh ( I'm talking a couple of litres a week).

So I have only the leaky CX to drive now. I am thinking it is entirely sensible to buy a 6th car so I have something to drive right[biggrin]

seeya,
Shane L

DoubleChevron

25th November 2018, 09:09 PM

I have made a list of stuff I need to do before the driveline goes back in (as it'll be many times more difficult once the driveline is back in).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146336&d=1543140266

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146337&d=1543140266

I taped 3 layers of this insulation together.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146338&d=1543140266

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146339&d=1543140266

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146340&d=1543140266

I saw how dirty the underbody was ... and decided cleaning that to glue this one was just to much work ... So I used a few very small rivnuts to hold it on ( the insulation weights nothing ... a few grams tops).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146341&d=1543140266

Hopefully this will quieten the LT230 down a bit ... but what I'm after is the console area not getting red hot when towing.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

25th November 2018, 09:21 PM

So the list of stuff I really need to do is:

--refit all the A/C lines
--refit wiring from other car.
---temp gauge
---trailer brakes
---battery isoloater
---anderson plug
---USB charger

I want to try and get all this wiring and crap through the firewall while the motor is out so I can get all the firewall gromets and holes filled properly.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146342&d=1543140802

When I found I was going to fix this car rather than buy another .... I looked up online the size the vdo temp gauges .... hole size 48mm ..... So I order in the 48mm hole saw when I got the insurance payout. You see this area of the dash had a lot of holes from a CB radio being fitted in the past. So I drilled the damage out and cut the 48mm hole. Yes, yes .. I know, I have since measured the gauge .... 50mm damn it all ... not 48.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146343&d=1543140802

The A/C hoses ... they are always in the way behind the motor I found. I couldn't access the bolts to re-mount the clips. Note: I have added another rivnut up high to get the hoses out of the way of the driveline. Lets hope this works.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=146344&d=1543140802

sigh ... guess who had to spend an hour with a file and dremel tool to make the hole big enough for a 50mm gauge rather doing anything constructive... sigh .....

rar110

26th November 2018, 07:12 AM

Things seem to take longer when you’re in a hurry. But making good progress on this project.

bblaze

26th November 2018, 08:45 PM

First off, I think you need to totally gut the interior then there will be nothing left to pull out and put back
Now go and buy another classic (think of it like saving a life, yours or the rangie)
you must have the patience of a saint[smilebigeye]
cheers

blaze

DoubleChevron

21st December 2018, 05:07 PM

You have to laugh ... my life is just like that show "roadkill"..... The shiny ****box is still in a million bits ... and I haven't had a chance to even look at it in the last 3 weeks. Today, the oil pressure light comes on ( now there is something new ). My usual is to ignore most warnings as they are usually fix themselves pretty quickly (dodgy connectors etc).... but that little oil car glowing brightly ... THAT will make me pull over quicker than you can blink and shut her down. I climb out and see a rapidly growing puddle of oil under in... there is oil pouring down the back of the block............ Sigh, the oil pressure switch will be leaking.

I pull the dipstick ... still oil in there ... maybe we'll make it home ( my imagination playing videos of seized turbos and hammered big ends through my mind) as we frantically head back home. Yep, were down to the last car ... the Ugly pink ID19.... Oh, and look its started raining. The kids look far from impressed as I wipe the cobwebs away so they can climb in. A roof would be nice given its raining and cold [bighmmm] I get to the end of our street and the windscreen wiper falls off the spindle drivers side ( I guess I've never used them before given I don't drive it in the rain) ... Oh well, I can just reach over the top and wipe that sucker down.

I wonder what is quicker, finding and fitting an oil pressure swtich .... fitting a roof (er, and re-fitting and tightening a wiper arm) or re-assembling a shiny ****box [bigrolf] The boss women is getting very frustrated with me for some reason (women are strange right ? ).

seeya,
shane L.

rangieman

21st December 2018, 06:07 PM

(women are strange right ? )
I used to work with a cattle farmer and his quote was [wink11]
Those Women they strange cattle them [bigwhistle]

DoubleChevron

12th January 2019, 10:03 AM

Finally I have managed to spend some time on the shiny ****box....

I have:
--ran the wring for brake controller, reverse camera down to the back ( damn it, I didn;'t run the anderson plug while I was under there).
--Change the steering box over (the other one doesn't weep like the one in this car).
--change the steering uni-joints and shafts
--fitted the panhard rod and steering dampeener
--stripped down the front swivels and cleaned them out (I found evidence of bits of metal from the CV that shattered in there when the transfer case locked), fitted the CV joints
--changed the transfer case output seal
--changed the manifold exhaust gaskets
--swapped the fuel pressure regulator over (for some reason this motor always leans out on petrol ... so I figured swap the regulator and pump would be a good start).

There must be an easy way to throw the driveline back in .... But I haven't figured it out yet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147398&d=1547247062

I left the handbrake drum and mechanism off after chanign the output seal and remove the transfer case lever/linkages (they snared a lot getting it out). I'm trying to avoid bashing up all of the sheetmetal. I don't trust the engine crane to lift that much weight with the boom fully extended (and the boom will hit the roof if I did fully exttend it before we lifted high enough to clear the front of the car. So I removed the front wheels and left the front supported on a small trolley jack.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147399&d=1547247062

its remarkable how high the crane has to go to lift it all on a steep angle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147400&d=1547247062

The problem is of course, once you have cleared the front of the car, the canes legs then bump into the steering mechanism and front axle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147401&d=1547247062

Only a completely, nuts ... insane person wants to pump that jack handle with a land rover drive line swinging above them from a cheap chinese (ie: dodgy piece of ****) engine crane.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147403&d=1547247062
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147402&d=1547247062

Then I found the transfer case wanted to snare the front diff....

DoubleChevron

12th January 2019, 10:18 AM

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147403&d=1547247993

and the gearshift lever is hitting the firewall at the back. I put it into 3rd and dropped it as far as I could, then manged to clear the firewell by moving the lever down into 4th (so under the firewall). Then I pried the transfer case over the back of the front diff.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147404&d=1547247993

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147405&d=1547247993

Then after cranking the leveller as level as I could, I ended up wedged here ... You see the chains on the back of the leveller will not let the engine move back anywhere near enough. They hit the firewall.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147406&d=1547247993

I'm still this far away from the motor being far enough back.

I'm getting very tired of cranking this damn leveler (that is also dodgy chinese made ****). This time I decided to spray it down with a lubricant to make it easier to move (which helped a lot ... it only took me cranking it forward and back a couple of times before this finally occurred to me [bighmmm] ). I have rolled by big trolley jack underneath the car and lifted the back of the transfer case up with it, then moved the leveller all the way forward again so there is no tension on the back of the leveller ( where its hitting the firewall).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147407&d=1547247993

Affter jacking the back of the transfer case up into the recess in the floor as I able to pry the engine back **** just **** enough so the engine mounts dropped into the chassis ....

So yeah, I managed to get the sucker in mostly intact... but its not a simple fit !!

seeya,
Shane L.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147408&d=1547247993

Pedro_The_Swift

12th January 2019, 10:19 AM

Roadkill would be doing all this by the side of the road,, or in carpark,,
and just lately behind a paywall........

DoubleChevron

12th January 2019, 10:24 AM

Roadkill would be doing all this by the side of the road,, or in carpark,,
and just lately behind a paywall........

I've haven't seen anything really since it went behidn the paywall :( ..... I lived the episode where they lowered that big block into the engine bay and it went "clink clunk thump" .... and they all stood around around "**** it just put itself in ..................... I've never seen that before. ... THe damn thing lined itself up and dropped into line just by lowering the crane (I usually swear, rave... rant and scream at it for hours trying to get the damn engine to line up and enter the clutch!).

Pedro_The_Swift

12th January 2019, 10:27 AM

yep, the only time an engine fell in, there seemed to be a spare clutch plate on the floor---- [bighmmm]

Mercguy

12th January 2019, 11:47 AM

I like Tuscan Blue.

Wanna do another respray??? [biggrin][tonguewink][bigrolf]

DoubleChevron

12th January 2019, 01:52 PM

I like Tuscan Blue.

Wanna do another respray??? [biggrin][tonguewink][bigrolf]

Wouldn't I need to finish this one first .... The entire car needs to be colour sanded.... and now all the door frames and blackout treatment is looking very ****ty next to the shiny blue and in desperate need to finishing.

I just bolted all the mounts and watched the transfer case mount tear itself into 2 pieces about 30seconds after tightening it up ................. I'm guessing that is the cars way of telling me it wants new gearbox and transfer case mounts... sigh ... Serves me right for being a tight arse and only replacing the engine mounts,.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

12th January 2019, 04:04 PM

not getting much done today either for some reason .... its supposed to be nice and cool here today....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=147414&d=1547269377

This sucker is just sitting there not hooked up ........... Guess how warm it is in the shed :(

dungarover

18th January 2019, 07:39 PM

Bit like this place, things move slowly but the beer fridge gets in the way more often than not[bigsmile]

Trav

jsp

20th January 2019, 11:02 PM

haven't touched my 86 project in a month because its just too hot.....

waiting too see how you finish off the paint though :)

DoubleChevron

21st January 2019, 09:59 AM

I need to get the thing back together first..... Its just in so many pieces. I'm making slow progress though. I'd have it drivable by next weekend ( capable of moving under its own power, not back together) however given everyday this week is over 30degree ( or close to 40degrees ). It probably won't be possible to enter the shed without risking heat stroke.

How do mechanics work in workshops without passing out in this sort of weather ?

Homestar

21st January 2019, 10:03 AM

DoubleChevron

21st January 2019, 10:55 AM

Drink lots of water, work slower than normal and take breaks. It sucks and I'm glad I don't do that any more. I do find that if I push myself to go out and work on the cars when it's hot - once I'm out there apart from sweating a lot, I don't have too many dramas. Keep a cool bottle of water close - once you're done for the day a nice cool shower and then a beer fixes everything. [emoji106]

Sounds like fun. I find if it's 40degrees outside ... its way over 50degrees in the shed :(

I installed a fuel pump and hooked up the wiring on the weekend. The motor seems happy enough to run ( yay ). It doesn't want to idle, but that is probably because there is no coolant in there or exhaust on it. I'll put the exhaust on and bolt up the driveshafts hopefully over the next night or so ... that way at least I can move it around.... and move it out the shed to fill/bleed the cooling system. Filling and bleeding the clutch will no doubt be a "fun" job too.

Homestar

21st January 2019, 11:16 AM

I think you may set a record this week by being hotter in Ballarat than Melbourne for the entire week...

Meccles

21st January 2019, 12:49 PM

Sounds like fun. I find if it's 40degrees outside ... its way over 50degrees in the shed :(

I installed a fuel pump and hooked up the wiring on the weekend. The motor seems happy enough to run ( yay ). It doesn't want to idle, but that is probably because there is no coolant in there or exhaust on it. I'll put the exhaust on and bolt up the driveshafts hopefully over the next night or so ... that way at least I can move it around.... and move it out the shed to fill/bleed the cooling system. Filling and bleeding the clutch will no doubt be a "fun" job too.

The clutch is a power bleeder or vacuum bleeder job. Manually forget it unless you remove the slave cylinder and rotate it to get bleeder to top there’s plenty on the forum about this. I’ve got a cheap vacuum bleeder it worked but wasn’t quick

Homestar

21st January 2019, 01:00 PM

Yeah, bit of a ***** but last time I did one I let it gravity bleed - a bit by accident - left the slave bleeder open then forgot about it for several hours. Ran back to it and found fluid dripping out - nipped it up and had a clutch. Got lucky I think.

DoubleChevron

21st January 2019, 02:17 PM

I have a compressor here.... so I wonder if something like this would work.

1 X Brake & Clutch Bleeder Kit Car/Van Fluid Bleeding Vacuum Tool AU | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-X-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-Kit-Car-Van-Fluid-Bleeding-Vacuum-Tool-AU/113577206022?hash=item1a71baa106:g:g1IAAOSwY4JcQ57 5:rk:32:pf:0)

Meccles

22nd January 2019, 08:58 PM

It should work

DoubleChevron

23rd January 2019, 11:32 AM

The clutch will be the next "fun" thing. I keep having plans of how much I'll get done ................ Then achieve sweet FA while I go in bloody circles.

Eg: The engineers must have been giggling with glee when they made up the Y pipe. I spent quite a bit of time chasing all the threads, wire brushing the flanges ( even ran a file over them to see if they were flat). the left bank had studs, the right bolts ... I fought that bastard of a thing for nearly 2hours before I finally had it installed ( how in the hell can you drop the flange bolts .... and they don't hit the ground... but disappear never to be seen again .... FFS: there is *only* a diff under that area, and no the missing fastener isn't on the diff). Why the hell didn't I fit studs to the right hand side manifold while it was off ?? I have a bunch of M8 x 1.25 studs there that would have worked perfectly too (beats the **** out of trying to line up the bolts surrounded by heat shields up in an area you hands can't fit)...... Oh, this is a great time to find you didn't bolt the heat shields back on when the motor was on the floor .... and it would have been a 15second task. It is a LOT more fun laying under the car trying to line the bastards up .... dropping the bolts ... loosing them ... etc.

Is there a way of getting the exhausts on/off these cars without cutting them in half behind the main muffler? I'm currently going through the cut up bits of crap exhaust trying to cobble together something that will work. Just to make it more fun, make sure none of the cuts are even. using a sabre saw to cut exhausts guarantees 100% NOTHING will line up for re-assembly.

last time I was at an exhaust place, they used one of these:

Trade Grade Chain Exhaust Tube Pipe Cutter Multi Wheel Blade Christmas Sale | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Trade-Grade-Chain-Exhaust-Tube-Pipe-Cutter-Multi-Wheel-Blade-Christmas-Sale/292352832486?hash=item44119633e6:rk:5:pf:0)

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~rcAAOSwMKxb7NkQ/s-l1600.jpg

makes for an even cut everywhere you use it. That would take all the fun out of it though I guess.

seeya,
Shane L.

bee utey

23rd January 2019, 01:10 PM

DoubleChevron

23rd January 2019, 01:20 PM

Factory exhausts have a 2 or 3 bolt flange in front of the main muffler, easy enough to undo. Rear pipes can be curled in if the diff is hanging. I butt join exhausts all the time, although serviceable flares can be made with a big hammer and the horn of a decent size anvil.

The flange joint at the front is fine. I'd need to remove the rear axle in order to get that enormous center muffler out through the back though :) You must run a straight through pipe as the center muffler ?

My issue is you need to cut them behind the front muffler to get the exhaust off of the car.

seeya,
Shane L.

bee utey

23rd January 2019, 01:49 PM

The flange joint at the front is fine. I'd need to remove the rear axle in order to get that enormous center muffler out through the back though :) You must run a straight through pipe as the center muffler ?

My issue is you need to cut them behind the front muffler to get the exhaust off of the car.

seeya,
Shane L.

Nope, the rear resonator pulls through to the front, done it more than once. Even easier if you run a hot dog resonator. There's a whole bunch of rotating, grimacing and shoving to do but it usually works. If you lack height under the vehicle you cut the pipe before the rear resonator, easier to get at for welding afterwards.

DoubleChevron

23rd January 2019, 03:39 PM

Nope, the rear resonator pulls through to the front, done it more than once. Even easier if you run a hot dog resonator. There's a whole bunch of rotating, grimacing and shoving to do but it usually works. If you lack height under the vehicle you cut the pipe before the rear resonator, easier to get at for welding afterwards.

I did try that and just couldn't see a way it would come through. I bet I need to jack the car up by the chassis to provide more clearance and not have a large odd shaped resonator. I will certainly try again now I know its possible (the car had a long narrow resonator that couldn't get around the corners).

DoubleChevron

25th January 2019, 08:07 PM

I did try that and just couldn't see a way it would come through. I bet I need to jack the car up by the chassis to provide more clearance and not have a large odd shaped resonator. I will certainly try again now I know its possible (the car had a long narrow resonator that couldn't get around the corners).

Well I'm going to whip up tomorrow and buy the cheapest oil can I cand find (as brake fluid will trash the seals no doubt)

https://youtu.be/4-XjNLm7358

This is brilliant! Just use a simple oil can and fill it from the bottom up.

Oh I have also figured out why Beutey has said so many times "you must put the LPG converter in series with the heater... not parallel".... I can't even get coolant flow the damn thing to bleed it when its in parallel. I'm pretty sure the heater core is always hot too (ie: the mixer flap turns the heater off, not a tap in the coolant line). I will whip up tomorrow and grab some hose fittings to run the sucker parallel.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

26th January 2019, 01:23 PM

Well I'm going to whip up tomorrow and buy the cheapest oil can I cand find (as brake fluid will trash the seals no doubt)

https://youtu.be/4-XjNLm7358

This is brilliant! Just use a simple oil can and fill it from the bottom up.

Oh I have also figured out why Beutey has said so many times "you must put the LPG converter in series with the heater... not parallel".... I can't even get coolant flow the damn thing to bleed it when its in parallel. I'm pretty sure the heater core is always hot too (ie: the mixer flap turns the heater off, not a tap in the coolant line). I will whip up tomorrow and grab some hose fittings to run the sucker parallel.

seeya,
Shane L.

This bloody car is rapidly driving me insane. Its about 50degrees in the shed each night. Everything under the car is pretty much buttoned up... The oil can trick worked brilliantly!!. $10 oil can from total tools (500ml) ... and it filled from the bottom up in about 3minutes. Then I rapidly pumped the pedal a few dozen times and suddenly had a clutch ( what a brilliant way of doing it). Its just a shame I didn't realise I needed to remove the dust cap from the bleed nipple while the driveline was on the floor of my shed.. You can't get to the damn thing, but I ended up having to completely remove the aggravating bastard of a thing and cutting the dust cap off with a knife.

Now the reversing lights never worked properly either. I could never fix this as you can't get to the reverse switch while the engine/gearbox is in the car. Anyway, I found the switch had two copper washers under it rather than one (so was about 2mm to shallow into the recess). Removing one of the washers fixed this.

I just finished hooking up the gearbox/transfer case harness. I'll give you one guess what I DON'T have..... Yep, the god damn reversing lights. I bet one of the wires has broken off the switch (they are molded into it). You have to remove everything I've spend each night for the last week trying to fit .... and drop the gearbox back down to access the switch. I'm thinking I might screwi a universal switch to the selector mechanism on top rather than going to all the effort of dropping the gearbox back down (ie: remove the cross member, removing the prop shafts, removing the clutch slave line, removing the exhaust ..... AARRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhh.

seeya,
Shane L.

rangieman

26th January 2019, 01:47 PM

Whats the age old saying One Step Forward Two Steps Backward [bighmmm]

Pedro_The_Swift

26th January 2019, 10:00 PM

Must. Not. Laugh. must. not. must.....

[bigrolf]

Meccles

27th January 2019, 01:26 AM

Love the reverse bleed method that’s awesome

DoubleChevron

27th January 2019, 02:10 PM

Love the reverse bleed method that’s awesome

This morning I don't have a clutch pedal until its pumped a few dozen times. So there is obviously still air in there. I'll try the single man bleeder on it. At least I have a pedal I can try to bleed. I think where I went wrong is I should have pumped the pedal ( slowly, gently) once or twice while I was back filing it.... to push any air up and out.

seeya
Shane L.

1950landy

27th January 2019, 02:44 PM

On brakes on some vehicles, we when we were having trouble getting a peddle , we would pump up the peddle then using a bit of wood between steering wheel & peddle to hold the peddle down leave it sit over night & the air wouls work its way back to the reservior & would have a good peddle in the morning. Have necer had to do it with a clutch so not sure if it will work.

Mercguy

27th January 2019, 03:58 PM

One of the tricks we use to bleed the clutch on certain Mercedes models is to bleed the front right caliper first, then when the fluids clean, attach a line from the brake to the clutch slave cyl, and pump the brakes.
On These specific models, the clutch and brake master reservoir are the same (shared), so there is no fluid loss per-se - just the air bubbles purged.

If the master reservoirs aren't shared, obviously you'd have to add fluid to the brake master and remove it from the clutch master if bleeding this way. It's just pressure bleeding in reverse, and damn handy when the slave is all but totally inaccessible.

On my 16v, I ran a braided bleed line from the bleed nipple back up to the master reservoir, and fitted a speed bleeder to the end. Makes "normal" bleeding a very straightforward task and annual flushing a 5 minute job instead of a 3 hour one.

1950landy

28th January 2019, 10:10 AM

DoubleChevron

30th January 2019, 09:39 AM

On the Triumph 2.5 manuals we used to unbolt the slave cylinder & because they had a plastic feed pipe lift the S/Cyl above the M/Cyl to bleed them . Can't remember how we stopped the piston from coming out , may have had a circlip . That was 40 odd years ago . IT'S A BUGGER GETTING OLD :wheelchair:
The other method I mentioned we used on Mk2 Zephyrs always had to keep them over night , even with a pressure bleeder you would never get a peddle. Austin Freeways we had to remove the brake drums one at a time , back adjusters off then hold the shoes in with tyre leavers . then using a pressure bleeder have some one pump the peddle slowly with a hose into a bottle . We did all 4 wheels that way then adjusted the brakes & would have a peddle. If we didn't do them this way we could spend all day bleeding & still have no peddle at the end just like a S1 LR. I tried this method on my S1 but didn't work. [bigsad]

I still haven't got back to this yet. I have however started re-assembling from the back. We now have a tailgate and lights on the back (which took a surprisling large amount of time to find the bits to assemble given I have two of them). It didn't help I emptied all of the parts car out onto the ground looking for stuff..... Then proceeded to back the car over one of the boxes of bits. Don't worry, it was the box of tail lights and mirrors from the car. Not the boxes of heavy metal parts. So I didn't hurt the tires in the slightest :wallbash::wallbash: I think I "might" still have enough bits to re-assemble just one ( I didn't need spare wing mirrors and lights right ?

seeya,
Shane L.

350RRC

31st January 2019, 08:24 PM

You'll get there Shane.

Looking forward to seeing this beast one day.

DL

DoubleChevron

31st January 2019, 11:11 PM

slowly getting there .... Once it re-assembled I'll sand the paint flat and give it a good polish.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148018&d=1548935710

everything I should be cleaning and painting as I re-assemble................... I'm not .... Don't ask about the missing indicator lense. There is two of those bastards things here............................... Damned if I know where, I spent a solid 2hours looking for them last night (I must have put them in a safe place so they wouldn't get damaged).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148019&d=1548935710

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148020&d=1548935710

I just need to paint and bolt the bumper on ... and bolt the glass hatch on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148021&d=1548935710

I swore I wasn't going waste my time with old **** like this in the future ... My wallet said it didn't want to buy a new exhaust yet though .... sigh..... I think this is the first leak free exhaust I've ever had on one of these cars. Can you count the six different welded sections there :o .... It sure does sound nice with no exhaust leaks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148022&d=1548935710

This is a really cheap reverse camera.... I've wired it through under the car (the wireless ones I've tried in the past are hopeless). These are really cheap, but it looks like it should work perfectly. The only use I really have for it is to back up to trailers/caravans. So the camera is pointed to the ground .... it drives me crazy the geting in and out a dozen times to line up perfectly. With a camera you can back the ball straight under the receiver.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148017&d=1548935710

the camera is just stuck on with double sided tape between the numberplate lights.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148024&d=1548936389

I swapped the injectors and pressure regulator over from the other motor as it was running very poorly on petrol ( obvious leaking injectors ... it would barely idle while running rich as buggery). It now runs lovely but leans out and dies if plenty of throttle is used. I think those small 28litres fuel tanks fry the fuel pumps ... It'll need a new fuel pump and a fuel filter while I'm under there, and I'm sure it'll now be fine.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148023&d=1548936389

Does anyone have any ideas on how you refit these things? They are certainly going to prove a good challenge!

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

2nd February 2019, 11:41 PM

I tackled the rear bar today... It sure was nice and toasty warm in the shed. The bar was a really ugly faded blue that matches the car. I'm not fond of this look at all. Especially when the paint is faded and scratched everywhere. To get it looking decent you would need to sandblast the entire thing back to bare metal (as the scratches through several layers of paint are quite deep). The issue with doing this is it'll cost me hours standing infront of a sandblaster .... or hours standing behind a strip it disc .... Then add on the time and expense of priming and top coating it ....

Then the first time I park it anywhere an asshole would scratch it ( I'm not exaggerating. I have even had two people back into this car in petrol stations while I'm standing there filling it with LPG ). I don't know why poeple want to "bump" into such a big ugly 4wd with this sort of bar work on it .... But they do :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148084&d=1549110552

Everyone is going to think I suck for this .... But stoneguard paint! You see I just used a flap disc in the grinder and feathered out all the scratches and ground any surface rust back... Then sprayed this on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148086&d=1549110552

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148087&d=1549110552

I quite like the look, and its very easy to touch up.

DoubleChevron

2nd February 2019, 11:53 PM

The next issue of course is .... a shiny car and tidy bar and it looks bloody terrible.... Remember way, way, way eariler in this thread. I mentioned the 3 of these things I've had have crooked rear bars.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/143643d1535290096-paint-p1190672.jpg

And they all either had bent chassis, or the rear of the chassis was build 10mm different in height.

Well the left mounting bolt is slightly in from the chassis rail.... So I found a couple of spacers that measured about 9.6mm with the calipers.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148089&d=1549110552

And it looks pretty close. Certainly it doesn't look very crooked like they always do.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148091&d=1549111588

Another fun fact I noticed... There is 4 bolt across the cross member... The outer two whoever fitted the rear bar obvously drilled. The two I'm using have actually slightly crushed the cross member where the bolts have been tightened ( Note: I have added plates under them).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148092&d=1549111588

See the two middle bolt holes.... They must be the factory towbar mounts. Note: the tubes running through the cross member so its not being crushed by the clamping force of the bolts. You probably don't need the outer two.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148090&d=1549111588

Now I just need to measure that gap between the cross member and the step with my micrometer and make up a couple of spacers for here before I bolt it all in. Yes I know, I make everything difficult for no reason [bighmmm]

Homestar

3rd February 2019, 08:15 AM

Will be well worth the faffing about to get it right now it has a shiny car to hang off. 👍

DoubleChevron

3rd February 2019, 05:53 PM

It would easily be 50degrees C in the shed today. And the boss women decided she was going to take the kids out shopping to the shopping center next to spotlight.... "Can you grab me a couple of meters of black vinyl from Spotlight .... it should be about $10bucks a meter from memory"...... Oh yeah, she was one not happy boss women when she discovered it was $30.00 a meter *after* they had gone and cut it off the roll and got it for her [bigwhistle] On the plus side I probably only needed 1/2 meters ... so now I have a handy 1.5meters of vinyl left over. Its only about $15 of vinyl required .... Not $60 [bighmmm]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148131&d=1549175799

I was initially going to just paint these... But trying to strip the old glue off was incredibly difficult and time consuming.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148132&d=1549175799

I just traced around these things and left plenty to fold over.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148133&d=1549175799

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148134&d=1549175799

The glue said only coat one side .. unless one of the surface being glued is porous. The vinyl soaked it in like a sponge. This is just really cheap contact adhesive from bunnings that I already had here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148135&d=1549175799

talk about lazy! New glue over the top of the old. That stuff is almost impossible to get off, so I'm not concerned about it failing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148136&d=1549176349

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148137&d=1549176349

I applied glue to the outer surface for now. About now I realised I should have used foam backed vinyl. It is almost impossible to remove the air bubbles when contact adhesive is used (I'd let it dry for about 20minutes). The vinyl sure is nice and workable given its easily 40degrees outside ( still much cooler than the 50+ it would be in the shed).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148138&d=1549176349

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148139&d=1549176349

I cut and snipped all the overlap in the same way the stuff I pealed off was done ( I really have no idea what I'm doing ).

DoubleChevron

3rd February 2019, 05:58 PM

After I'd snipped around all the overlapping bits, I painted some more glue onto these bits and left them for 20minutes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148140d1549176957-paint-p1190959.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148141d1549176957-paint-p1190960.jpg

After pulling the overlapping bits over and gluing them down from behind.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148142d1549176957-paint-p1190961.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148143d1549176957-paint-p1190962.jpg

The vents are quite sun damaged. I probably should paint those vents with some plastic paint... I'm guessing I won't bother though.

This would probably cost me about $25 if I was going to make do them again. About $10 for a small tin of glue, and $15 for 1/2 meter of vinyl.

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar

3rd February 2019, 06:11 PM

Looks good Shane - doesn’t matter if they aren’t perfect, the whole thing will look great once done. 👍👍👍

DoubleChevron

3rd February 2019, 06:33 PM

Looks good Shane - doesn’t matter if they aren’t perfect, the whole thing will look great once done. 👍👍👍

This isn't a concourse restoration ..... That look perfect on the car :)

Meccles

3rd February 2019, 10:11 PM

Mercguy

4th February 2019, 08:53 AM

I’m jealous of the shed and time you are able to spend on it. If I get more than 10 hours a month I’m lucky rest of time is life - work/rest/housework etc etc. very little time left for my RRC ☹️

^^ THIS.

Not to mention the large hole that is waiting for you to fall in if you mention working on the car on a weekend, when there are "commitments".
Those same "commitments" you just can't tolerate and were not told about beforehand.

you know what I'm eluding to ;)

DoubleChevron

4th February 2019, 09:19 AM

Oh yeah ... boss women is getting most un-impressed.... I've been trying to spend at least an hour each evening on the car (that's why it is taking so incredibly long to get anywhere). Everything is "back" this week. I should have had the car finished by now. Every evening of the week is now full again, so progress will stop. It also means I'm out in the shed until 11:30pm most nights (by the time the kids are fed and put into bed ... etc... its 9:30 by the time you get outside).

I have two weeks off work starting today, so hopefully I'll find enough time to get the damn car back together so I can drive it by then (or it'll be left sitting like it is now for months on end).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148154d1549232503-paint-p1190966.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148155d1549232503-paint-p1190967.jpg

See the issue with giving the bumper and C.... er, actually they are D pillars a tidy up. Look at the rear window frame ... and blackout treatment on to car now. Before it looked quite ok..... Now it looks terrible!

With time, you need to remember the "searching" time. Say 30minutes to refit those 'D' pillar covers............... Then add in 2hours searching for the damn clips that hold them in......... Then pulling the bloody things from the other car so you can use those clips (Oh, and the other car had rusty D pillars. The reason for this is they put sound deadening foam behind them .... which traps the water in there.

seeya,
Shane L.

Meccles

4th February 2019, 10:41 AM

Oh yeah ... boss women is getting most un-impressed.... I've been trying to spend at least an hour each evening on the car (that's why it is taking so incredibly long to get anywhere). Everything is "back" this week. I should have had the car finished by now. Every evening of the week is now full again, so progress will stop. It also means I'm out in the shed until 11:30pm most nights (by the time the kids are fed and put into bed ... etc... its 9:30 by the time you get outside).

I have two weeks off work starting today, so hopefully I'll find enough time to get the damn car back together so I can drive it by then (or it'll be left sitting like it is now for months on end).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148154d1549232503-paint-p1190966.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148155d1549232503-paint- 6 p1190967.jpg

See the issue with giving the bumper and C.... er, actually theyooki are D pillars a tidy up. Look at the rear window frame ... and blackout treatments I on to car now. Before it looked quite ok..... Now it looks terrible!

With time, you need to remember the "searching" time. Say 30minutes to refit those 'D' pillar covers............... Then add in 2hours searching for the damn clips that hold them in......... Then pulling the bloody things from the other car so you can use those clips (Oh, and the other car had rusty D pillars. The reason for this is they put sound deadening foam behind them .... which traps the water in there.

seeya,
Shane L.

Ha! Trying pulling it apart 6 years ago and remembering where stuff is. 50% of time is spent looking 25% thinking only 25% actually doing anything [emoji2957]

1950landy

4th February 2019, 02:10 PM

I found when I was restoring my 80" 30 odd years ago & stil working . I needed to spend at least 1 to 2 hours each night to make any progress. As for loosing parts I have put in a safe place so as not to loose them I can spend a week some times looking as I keep some parts at the workshop , some in the shedat home & some under the bed. [bighmmm]
This is looking good. Makes me want a RRC.[bigsmile1]

Mercguy

4th February 2019, 03:19 PM

Agreed. Tuscan Blue is making me damn jealous actually. [wink11]

DoubleChevron

4th February 2019, 06:29 PM

Well I learnt the tricks for fitting the bonnet. ( the hard way of course ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148167&d=1549264715

I stupidly didn't ask for help putting the bonnet on ... Its actually really easy to lift on... lift into place, line the hinges up and slide in at the back.... then lifts (it'll push hard against the scuttle) and sit on the bonnet prop, then line up and bolt on the hinges.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148168&d=1549264715

I carefully lowered down the bonnet to check the gaps everywhere so I didn't chip any paint.................. yeah that didn't work. You have to look at a different spot on these cars to every other car I've had the bonnet off..... The scuttle... it sits really high at the back. You have to adjust the bonnet as far away from the car as its adjustment will allow to clear the scuttle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148169&d=1549264715

Its needs to clear this high point.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148170&d=1549264715

I moved tried slowly moving the adjustment in ... but pretty much the bonnet as far forward as it needed to go was where it needed to be to clear the scuttle..... But that didn't explain this ..... How in the hell did that chip in the paint happen .........

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148171&d=1549264715

Groan .................. The damn spacers has dropped down while I was trying different adjustments.

DoubleChevron

4th February 2019, 06:49 PM

I gave it a quick hose off to clean the windows and remove all of the dust.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148179&d=1549265407

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148178&d=1549265407

I still needed to sort a front bumper.... I arranged to buy an early ARB bar from Trav about 3months ago .... But I've stuffed him around so much now I'm not brave enough to see if he still has it [bigwhistle]:no2: I've had a look around ... and I actually have 2 bumpers and 2 bullbars here (how on earth have I accumulated them). One bullbar is alloy ( crap that would bend to easily ). The bent ARB bar off the car and two bumpers but not a set of plastic end caps. I grabbed this a couple of weeks back too (thinking it could be crap).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148177&d=1549265407

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=148176&d=1549265407

The bar is ancient ... probably dating back to the 70's... but still seams sound. I have spent quite a bit of time with a flap disc and wire brush in an angle grinder cleaning it up. The reason I chose this out of the crap here is its just a length of RHS ...

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/6tIAAOSwDOpbyaOI/s-l1600.jpg

$30 including delivery on ebay... Don't worry, I have no intention of bolting it on (protruding it would be a real danger to pedestrians). I'll cut the backing plate off and weld the sleeve to the bottom of the bullbar. Then paint the thing with the same stone guard paint I've used on the rear bar.

I just cable tied all the wires inside out of the way and whipped upto the petrol station to put some gas and petrol in it. Its drives really nicely. Undrivable on petrol (I'll need to order in a pump and filter)... Oh, and with a stop at my parents on the way home ( as I'm all to familiar with how a loose wheel fits ... and I was sure this thing had a loose wheel). Fortunatly my father had a 27mm socket and bar there..... I was wrong though, it didn't have a loose wheel........................ It had three loose wheels [bigrolf][bigrolf] [bighmmm][bighmmm]

seeya
Shane L.

grey_ghost

4th February 2019, 07:35 PM

I have a bar from a 2 door?

rangieman

4th February 2019, 08:17 PM

LRJim

4th February 2019, 09:05 PM

My bars from a RRC it dosnt have the returns, find a disco bar and we can swapsies [emoji16]

DoubleChevron

4th February 2019, 11:15 PM

That Bar you have is a Original ARB very rare and technically illegal [bigwhistle]

They were produced up to about 1983 and are designed to cut through Roo`s and pedestrians :Thump:.

I had one on a 83 RRC and had a meeting with a car in about 96 the bar had a slight bend and this is where the rules are bizarre [bighmmm]

Insurance wanted to repair the bar but due to the bar being a original fitment it was legal on the car but once removed it then became illegal and could not be refitted so i got a new bar out of it .
Id be careful if you get any anal cop`s they could honestly defect you for that bar for that year car[thumbsupbig]

I can understand the rules on bullbars... You have all the people that never leave town ... or go offroad fitting those huge 5 posters ( as they became a fashion accessory )... Once the bar is that heavy and strong ... you just bend the chassis if you hit anything hard (a bar is easier to replace than a chassis).

I believe you that its not technically legal ... I also believe I don't give a **** about the majority of laws [bigwhistle] [bigwhistle] You see if something that weighs 2.5'ish tons hits you.... bull bar or not, your are likely to be history. My wife has a modern french car. Its has stupidly expensive wiper blades. The idea is they are "pedestrian friendly" .... Dunno about you, but I'd be more concerned about being run over by the 2 ton car that I would be about wiper blades scratching me as I go over the roof [bighmmm] (that little car weight 1.7tons empty would you believe :o ... so easily 2tons loaded).

Playing at re-instating the interior at the moment ... Hopefully that can be done tomorrow..... Then all the other bits and pieces can be done as I get time (as the car will then be drivable while they are being done). Everything electrical except the demister fans is working (bugger, I hope they are just unplugged somewhere). If I can get them working, I'll gas up the A/C. Its certainly not nice driviing with the window harness removed and no A/C or fans :)

I just pulled the speedo apart as the trip meter doesn't reset properly and "clicks" rather than rolling over. You know, I can't see anything obvious wrong, and I wasn't going to pull the trip meter itself to bits. So that was a fun waste of time too.

seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron

5th February 2019, 03:04 PM

This is the story of my life .... spending hours achieving nothing ... Those damn interior fans.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148211d1549337960-paint-p1190985.jpg

the fusible links look fine ... the fuse looks fine, also power at the fuse.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148212d1549337960-paint-p1190987.jpg

This would frustrate you to tears .... I only just had all the stuff in bits.... for months!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148213d1549337960-paint-p1190988.jpg

Every test I can think of is coming back fine. I found the plug for the resistor pack.... The resistors seem to measure fine ...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148214d1549337960-paint-p1190990.jpg

In desperation I pulled the resisters from the other car .......... and look at that. Custom made resistor pack sitting on a heat sink. (nice!) But still no god damn fans. I have thrown this into the scuttle beside the other resistor pack. I'll leave them both fitted incase one ever dies.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148216d1549338347-paint-p1190991.jpg

In desperation I pulled out the switch to test (this would drive you crazy, the mongrel fans worked when the car was parked)..... Anyway, look what I found! Its strange the voltages seemed ok at the resistor block when the switch is burnt like this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148217d1549338347-paint-p1190992.jpg

This wasn't as simple as you would expect. Note: This is the housing from the other car ... I also had to splice in two of the wires from the other car..... Why not simply rewire it ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148219d1549338347-paint-p1190995.jpg

Look at the variety of connectors and terminals i have here .... I could couldn't just rewire the thing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148218d1549338347-paint-p1190993.jpg

I started crimp/soldering new brass terminals on .... when I found it has those bastard type housing you need to weird spade terminals for.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148224d1549338958-paint-p1190996.jpg

See how the spade terminal have a narrow tip ... that matches the housing. Only this type will fit.

So, I re-assemble it all .............................. To find no fans ... :wallbash: :wallbash: This is how I spend hours on a car and achieve absolutely nothing. I've pretty much ruled out all of the circuit ... Which leave only the fan unit itself or the earth point for the fan. So I spent quite a bit of time looking for the earth point ( I still haven't found it). The heater boxs looks like the entire thing is made of plastic, so the earth point can't be inside. I gave the heater box a tap with my finger to verify plastic ..................................... and the damn fan made lots of rustling noises and wound upto speed blowing a face full of grit and leaves into my eyes.

Yes, I'd say a mouse had made a home in the fan unit. I didn't even consider it being stuck as it didn't buzz ... the lights didn't dim ... there didn't seem to be any current being drawn.

So that is how you waste a morning.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/148227d1549339315-paint-p1190989.jpg

this is how much I achieve spending a few hours assembling a dash.

seeya,
Shane L.

1950landy

5th February 2019, 04:43 PM

I feal for you , I bought some new window switches for my BMW e30 that had lights in them ( the old ones didn't & were starting to give trouble now always working) I fitted the new switches & found the lights were on all the time , checked wiring diagram & checkes fuses, relays ect found all working ok. Spent hours on it so refitted old switches . Next day after checking all the circuits again & doing some internet reserch found the problem which wasn't a problem at all . What I found was when you open the doors power is fead to the switches for a couple of minuts so you can open or close the windows, so while I was checking the circuits I had the door open but with the ignition off there is no power going through the fuse or the relay. So is some how getting power from the door light switches but doese not show anything in the wiring diagram so the switches light up for a couple of minuts after the doors have been locked then go out. Would have never have known if I hadn't bought the new switches.

Homestar

5th February 2019, 08:26 PM

DoubleChevron

5th February 2019, 11:15 PM

Ah, fans... Something I’ve started to look at in the Jag - it works going full tilt, but not on lower settings so suspect the resistors there too, but I’m yet to discover their location... 😆. Will find them one day. I haven’t asked on the Jag forum as I’m trying to learn about the car as I go and discover what it has in store for me, but the lovely Lucas Electrics in it are just like a Range Rovers. 👍

If it's working on full speed. I bet you have transistor ( infinitely variable ? ) control of the fans. Because you will drop 0.7volts across the transister/fet you have a bypass circuit for full speed (in one of my cars you hear the "click" of the micro-switch for full speed). The transistor/fet is probably fried. The good news is the tend to bury this transistor deep into the dash so a lot of dismantling is required to get to it ( I was doing everything I could to avoid pulling the heater box out of this thing here!... Its about the only thing that was left in the damn car!).

seeya
Shane L

Meccles

6th February 2019, 12:46 PM

Good luck! At least it’s registered and drove nice well done there!

DoubleChevron

11th February 2019, 10:28 PM

I still need to find/fix the leak in the A/C before i re-assemble the interior .... But I think I really like this hideous bright blue. The thing looks like a gleaming beacon in a sea of boring plastic mediocrity in carparks. No-one makes bright plain colours like this any longer.

I've only driven it a couple of times (as the interior is still full of wires everywhere). Its amazing the attention it attracts. I've had several people ask me about it already. I could hear someone asking "who owns the Range Rover" in the waiting room when I took one of the kids to the dentist today.

seeya,
Shane L.

Mercguy

12th February 2019, 02:49 PM

Amazing isn't it?

I give my busted arse POS a wash and randoms just come out of the woodwork and ask about it.

Maybe my definition of a 'nice' car is wildly different to others? That I do not honestly know. I still think of it as a POS compared to the Mercs.

Everything about the range rover in oct 1991 is a defining example of "British afterthought engineering" heh BAE lmao how ironic.

There is one sure thing, When you drive an RRC, some weirdo always pops out of nowhere and compliments you on your excellent taste in vehicles.

Not sure I'm all that comfortable with it actually. I guess the compliments are derived from seeing something other than a Land Cruiser, Patrol, hilux or pajero in the carpark.

I mean, a Defender? sure. Brand Cache for an icon, but an RRC??? [bighmmm] My pre-purchase theory was, It's so ugly, that it's cool.

If only I knew what reality lurked under the shell.

Every time I find something wrong in my RRC, it costs me 3x as much to fix it properly, because of the british afterthought engineering. If they'd left it as CSK's original velar, the thing probably would have been alright. But the botched HVAC, the pathetic oil cooler sandwich adapter with useless BSP fittings, the inadequate engine bay cooling / airflow, the 'let's relocate the alternator and add power steering' design debauchery, and the worst electrical design / implementation I have ever come across.

Yet there are still one-eyed faithful out there who will tell you it is the best thing since sliced bread and nothing else even comes close.

I am sure it is those very same people who do not ever work on their vehicles.

I digress.

Shane, let's face it.... if you and I didn't have these abominations in our lives, we'd still be the most miserable old whingeing bastards - but we'd be wealthier ones.
[bigsmile][biggrin][bigsmile]

Hang on, maybe not. You have french cars still and I swapped mine for another 3 pointed swastika. SO that means we're both royally rogered.