Discovery 1 kickdown cable replacement

[DAMINK]

Ok so turns out i have to change my kickdown cable on the old girl.
Thought it would be a pretty simple job! But after doing a few searches here and on other sites it seems i have to pull the box apart?

Can anyone give me a reasonable idea of whats involved and if there is any way to make it easier, like pulling the shifter off and accessing from there perhaps and not pulling the box apart is my hope??????

Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks.

At this point i am going by this video as the procedure needed.


https://youtu.be/CyTqNiejrrA

[workingonit]

Changed a kick down in a D1 Tdi300 many years ago. From memory sump, filter, and valve plate off - not hard, easy refit, just messy.

Hardest parts were getting fingers in tight recess to unhook the pivot slug (the cylinder pressed to the end of the wire), and equally vexing getting the new one hooked; then seating the new rubber boot seal properly to the casing.

[DAMINK]

Changed a kick down in a D1 Tdi300 many years ago. From memory sump, filter, and valve plate off - not hard, easy refit, just messy.

Hardest parts were getting fingers in tight recess to unhook the pivot slug (the cylinder pressed to the end of the wire), and equally vexing getting the new one hooked; then seating the new rubber boot seal properly to the casing.

Yea im looking forward to it mate. Had a few other things to do today so did not get it apart but have ordered parts and will finish it tomorrow.
Not looking forward to the fiddly bits. My stumpy fingers and carpel tunnel really make for fun and games some times.

[damienb]

Yea im looking forward to it mate. Had a few other things to do today so did not get it apart but have ordered parts and will finish it tomorrow.
Not looking forward to the fiddly bits. My stumpy fingers and carpel tunnel really make for fun and games some times.

Done it many times. It is messy. To reduce the mess:-
(a) let it sit for a couple of days before pulling the valve block, as it will drain slowly.
(b) only remove the large headed torx bolts, otherwise you are in for a world of pain if the valve body separates.

Damien

[loanrangie]

I printed off a copy from rave of the valve body and circled the bolts I need to remove, used gloves and clean rags but did it on my front lawn.
Worse part was re routing the cable up over the trans.

[DAMINK]

I printed off a copy from rave of the valve body and circled the bolts I need to remove, used gloves and clean rags but did it on my front lawn.
Worse part was re routing the cable up over the trans.

Thankyou lonerangie.

I will do the same.... ie print rave to make sure. The video does say there slightly darker bolts?

Yea it seems the aftermarket ones are slightly different. The cables i mean and do require some tongue twisting to work out.
I look forward to learning it.

[DAMINK]

I hunted this pic down off the rave cd and decided to copy it up incase anyone else in the future needs it.

Appears there is only 13 bolts to undo to get the control unit out.

142386

[Roverlord off road spares]

Just remember cleanliness is paramount with transmissions, any dirt. lint fluff etc can cause you grief later

[DAMINK]

Well the job went smoothly. Not a bad job to do actually if you like the red stuff.
Took it for a drive and had a tranny line i made up to work around the winch let go and split at the clamp. Clearly not good enough hose so gotta get me some better stuff tomorrow and fit that.
Jobs never ending on this car i tell ya.

[AK83]

Good to hear that the cable job went well.
Have it locked into the back of my grey matter if the time comes and I have to do mine one day.


....
Took it for a drive and had a tranny line i made up to work around the winch let go and split at the clamp. Clearly not good enough hose so gotta get me some better stuff tomorrow and fit that.
Jobs never ending on this car i tell ya.

I vaguely remember a post you made re a trans line, and using clamps and stuff, and I thought to myself that doesn't sound right.
Lots of chatter within these pages re trans lines and the need for proper high pressure stuff as the trans can produce over 100 psi of pressure or something to that effect.
More of that chatter in the D2 area due to the design of the (quick)connectors to the trans cooler ... and maybe they rub on the engine block ... or something like that. Not so much a problem on the D1.

[loanrangie]

I used a couple of brass barbs and clamps when my hoses rubbed thru, still good after 4 years.

[DAMINK]

Good to hear that the cable job went well.
Have it locked into the back of my grey matter if the time comes and I have to do mine one day.



I vaguely remember a post you made re a trans line, and using clamps and stuff, and I thought to myself that doesn't sound right.
Lots of chatter within these pages re trans lines and the need for proper high pressure stuff as the trans can produce over 100 psi of pressure or something to that effect.
More of that chatter in the D2 area due to the design of the (quick)connectors to the trans cooler ... and maybe they rub on the engine block ... or something like that. Not so much a problem on the D1.


I used the wrong hose i think. The flares i made worked ok and the hose did not leak from there. It appears it got hot and split where my clamp was. I am going to take it to a hose joint today and let them do whatever they have to.
Im over looking at that red fluid.

[DAMINK]

I used a couple of brass barbs and clamps when my hoses rubbed thru, still good after 4 years.

Just got a quote from Pirtek. I nearly had a stroke when he told me the price. I think he is supplying a new gearbox with the hose but cant be sure.

Did you silver solder them on? The brass barbs i mean. Has got me to thinking i might just tig weld some ends on there myself............

Im wondering what the best sort of hose for this job is?
I tried using car heater hose with a 10 bar pressure rating.

142412

I would have thought this hose would have worked now i think of it.

[bee utey]

Im wondering what the best sort of hose for this job is?
I tried using car heater hose with a 10 bar pressure rating.

142412

I would have thought this hose would have worked now i think of it.

Trans cooler hose is a thing you know, different type of oil resistant rubber and all that. DIY brazing on SAE flare fittings is good too, lets you use proper reuseable fittings and hydraulic hose. If you can braze just buy the fittings and hose and make it look professional for zero outside labour cost.

[loanrangie]

I have a pair of spare hoses, 1 is good and other needs the hose replaced.

[Roverlord off road spares]

Just got a quote from Pirtek. I nearly had a stroke when he told me the price. I think he is supplying a new gearbox with the hose but cant be sure.

Did you silver solder them on? The brass barbs i mean. Has got me to thinking i might just tig weld some ends on there myself............

Im wondering what the best sort of hose for this job is?
I tried using car heater hose with a 10 bar pressure rating.

142412

I would have thought this hose would have worked now i think of it.
Car heater hose is made to handle water not hot oil, you need to get the proper hose that is designed for oil.

[DAMINK]

Yep wrong hose indeed.
Got some proper hose this time from pirtek.
The guy at the counter had a chuckle when i showed him the hose i used.
Should have gone to see him from the start. Gave me enough to do twice what i needed for just 15 bux!
Seriously i wasted much more than that in tranny fluid on the ground.

Lesson learned.

[Rick1970]

SAE100R6 hose (Eaton part number fc332-6) on mine atm with push lock fittings and jic nipples silver soldered to the tubes. Works well.