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View Full Version : Defender recovery points vs this



sizl
8th September 2018, 11:46 AM
Does anyone see a problem with these, tow bar based recover points for snatching vs the rings bolted to the chasis? Are the standard Def recover points good enough? What is best practice?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180908/1a7df0a93463616b030aa7f6cf28da50.jpg

tact
8th September 2018, 12:19 PM
Those things bolted to the chassis from factory are NOT RECOVERY POINTS.

I’d be sus even of those “jate rings” people use to replace the factory tie-down points.

DeeJay
8th September 2018, 02:48 PM
I have exactly that set up & have snatched plenty with it. The rings are for trailer safety chains only.

BTW, That's an interesting addition of the bolt to stop the towbar from vibration. My Deefer makes so many assorted noises, it would be impossible to tell if mine vibrated or not..

austastar
8th September 2018, 04:02 PM
That's an interesting addition of the bolt to stop the towbar from vibration.

Hi,
It makes opportunistic theft a little more difficult in dodgy caravan parks too.

Cheers

DeeJay
8th September 2018, 04:36 PM
Hi,
It makes opportunistic theft a little more difficult in dodgy caravan parks too.

Cheers

On that subject as I'm too tight to buy a towbar pin lock, I just drilled out my pin & added a lock- hasn't filled with mud-yet..

sizl
8th September 2018, 05:22 PM
Those things bolted to the chassis from factory are NOT RECOVERY POINTS.

I’d be sus even of those “jate rings” people use to replace the factory tie-down points.

Thanks. So what do people use for a recover point on the front if you’re it using a bull bar with additional fixings to the chassis rails? Even with a winch, I think you’d want a fixing point for a snatch!

sizl
8th September 2018, 05:50 PM
I have exactly that set up & have snatched plenty with it. The rings are for trailer safety chains only.

BTW, That's an interesting addition of the bolt to stop the towbar from vibration. My Deefer makes so many assorted noises, it would be impossible to tell if mine vibrated or not..

Was on the truck when I got it but it works really well. Just remember to take a spammer with you when you travel, but that’s a given with a defender!

tact
8th September 2018, 06:44 PM
Thanks. So what do people use for a recover point on the front if you’re it using a bull bar with additional fixings to the chassis rails? Even with a winch, I think you’d want a fixing point for a snatch!

One way to go, doesn’t require a bull bar, is fitting under body protection that incorporates recovery points. Something like this:
APT Steering Guard | Defender (http://aptoffroad.com.au/browse-catalogue/defender/product/6-apt-steering-guard-defender/category_pathway-13)

DiscoClax
8th September 2018, 09:02 PM
On that subject as I'm too tight to buy a towbar pin lock, I just drilled out my pin & added a lock- hasn't filled with mud-yet..Same here. I have used small padlocks for the last decade like that. If you cut an old bike tyre inner tube (or similar) and wrap it around the padlock - that covers the lock and stops it from getting filled with dust, dirt, etc. but you can still easily access the lock when required.

p38arover
8th September 2018, 09:12 PM
Just remember to take a spammer with you when you travel

We don't allow spammers on this site! [bigwhistle]

tact
9th September 2018, 08:36 AM
I found the stock LR supplied tow bar etc too low at the back... the lower end of the drop plate acted like a rear mounted plough blade and got hung up on rock on some tracks. So I modified it somewhat (as I don't plan on towing regular trailers, a 50mm towball down low is not something I need)....
- wanted to fit a pintle hook at rear crossmember height for recoveries... and raise up the lowest point of the "plough blade" as much as possible.
- there is some talk on the forums that the TDCi (Puma) rear crossmember is not as suited to direct mounting of a pintle hook, as compared to older models with apparently stronger rear crossmembers. So...
- I raised the drop plate as high as I could and still retain the side braces back to chassis... for strength etc...
- trimmed the upper portion of the drop plate so I could still open my tailgate
- also fitted a plate behind the crossmember to spread load more
- then bolted the pintle hook through the drop plate (which is bolted to crossmember and braced back to chassis rails), through the cross member, and through the spreader plate behind the cross member.

End result:
144066