300 tdi engine swap

[shack]

I will shortly be changing the engine in my defender, the one that's going in has apparently done 120k from new, have been wondering what jobs to do before refitting,
I think doing the rear main seal would be a no brainer, but what else?

[87County]

Certainly is a low km engine - there would not be many 300tdis around with such low kms.

In a case like this, assuming I was planning to keep it with an expectation of long term reliability, I would undertake preventative head gasket replacement (on time alone), I would recondition the head (valves), and I would replace the timing belt and idlers, the coolant pump, the P gasket, the viscous fan hub, and I would have the radiator rodded and intercooler cleaned.

And I'm sure there are things I haven't thought of.

Others will say it's all unnecessary and overkill on what should be a good engine, just take your chances and fix things as they malfunction :).

The 300tdi is a very straightforward engine to work on, either on a stand or in the car.

I've been through Orroroo a number of times - nice town with your huge red gum tree, very helpful guy with tyres at the corner of Sixth (I think it was) St.

[donh54]

I wouldn't be inclined to worry about the head, at those kays. Just do the other bits that 87County mentioned, de-egr it, add both egt and decent temp gauge. Should be good for a few decades.

[87County]

I agree with donh's comments re the temperature gauge, I fitted a VDO capillary gauge to our D1 and it instantly shows variations that the OEM gauge ignored.

[BathurstTom]

Welch plugs, rear main seal and the seal at the front of the gear box input shaft. I would assume, if a manual, that you are replacing the clutch(including bearing and perhaps heavy duty fork).

Tom.

[shack]

Certainly is a low km engine - there would not be many 300tdis around with such low kms.

In a case like this, assuming I was planning to keep it with an expectation of long term reliability, I would undertake preventative head gasket replacement (on time alone), I would recondition the head (valves), and I would replace the timing belt and idlers, the coolant pump, the P gasket, the viscous fan hub, and I would have the radiator rodded and intercooler cleaned.

And I'm sure there are things I haven't thought of.

Others will say it's all unnecessary and overkill on what should be a good engine, just take your chances and fix things as they malfunction :).

The 300tdi is a very straightforward engine to work on, either on a stand or in the car.

I've been through Orroroo a number of times - nice town with your huge red gum tree, very helpful guy with tyres at the corner of Sixth (I think it was) St.I've got another one with 31 000 now on the clock,I got it at 29000 and I'm a bit cranky as I didn't want to drive it but the drought has made me use it as a feed wagon puller, the 120 k one was I believe a vehicle rollover that just never got it back in the rd , repairable right off...

[loanrangie]

I wouldn't be inclined to worry about the head, at those kays. Just do the other bits that 87County mentioned, de-egr it, add both egt and decent temp gauge. Should be good for a few decades.No egr on an aus spec TDI.

[DazzaTD5]

As others have mentioned..

*Wouldnt worry about doing head.
*Do all the other engine items that have been suggested, including the clutch.
*DO ALL the coolant hoses AND expansion tank/cap
*If your radiator is only average, get the original copper one re-cored.
*Degrease the **** out of the engine bay while its out.
*Fit something for a low coolant alarm or
*I fit on all my customer vehicles that have major transplants a engine watchdog tm2
ENGINE WATCHDOG TM2, Engine Temperature Sensor and Low Coolant Alarm (http://enginewatchdog.com/tm2.html)

*When its all up and running nice, tweak the pump so its a bit more nippy

[shack]

Welch plugs, rear main seal and the seal at the front of the gear box input shaft. I would assume, if a manual, that you are replacing the clutch(including bearing and perhaps heavy duty fork).

Tom.Do you have a part number for the gearbox input shaft seal?
I also Believe that many have used the rear main seal that turner engineering supply, is this correct? And have their been reports of these still leaking, or do they seem to fix the problem?
Cheers James

[BathurstTom]

Do you have a part number for the gearbox input shaft seal?
I also Believe that many have used the rear main seal that turner engineering supply, is this correct? And have their been reports of these still leaking, or do they seem to fix the problem?
Cheers James

I think it is FTC5303. As to the rear main seal, I got one from Roverlord whatever he sent. It has worked fine. Just be careful to follow instructions and allow it to 'self centre' if that makes sense prior to tightening it into place.

Tom.