Disco 4 round plug to Anderson plug adapter + brake controller

[Mrhigherbeing]

Hello all
I’m looking for a link to where I can buy a round plug adapter to an Anderson adapter so I can plug my camper trailer electrics in (I know about the worry of amps it’s purely to keep battery topped up).

Also wondering if anyone has advice on a good brake controller?

Cheers all
Ian

[p38arover]

I don't know if there is such an adapter. However it would be very easy to make one.

[PerthDisco]

DISCO3.CO.UK - Shop (http://www.disco3.co.uk/shop/)

martin@disco3.co.uk

They will make up a plug with whatever end you want.

I had an Anderson to 12S off the switched supply. It’s fused also (I think).

[Eric SDV6SE]

Tekonsha P3 brake controller

TEKONSHA P3 PRODIGY CARAVAN TRAILER ELECTRIC BRAKE CONT (https://www.gadgetcity.com.au/tekonsha-p3-prodigy-caravan-trailer-electric-brake-controller-hd-p-2967.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAs8XiBRAGEiwAFyQ-emAGRBzPp2VFT6v9ojEpukqCJurNbspsBw8fgcwsM3YDc4T1YC rtqRoCD_sQAvD_BwE&zenid=008c0fbf3c850a6cdf92d083f768eebc)

Also check Ebay.

I've had this in my D4 now for over 5 years with no issues.

[DiscoMick]

Any auto electrician should be able to make a round to Anderson.

Add my vote for the Tekonsha - neat bit of kit.

[Hugh Jars]

I have had a P3 for several years. Great bit of kit.
The Redarc Towpro takes up less real estate, but I’m unsure how good they are.

[Xtreme]

Hello all
I’m looking for a link to where I can buy a round plug adapter to an Anderson adapter so I can plug my camper trailer electrics in (I know about the worry of amps it’s purely to keep battery topped up).

Also wondering if anyone has advice on a good brake controller?

Cheers all
Ian
Have you considered replacing the large round Utilux power socket with an Anderson plug/socket?
No need to worry about adapter leads then.

[DiscoMick]

I have a flat pin plug for operating the trailer plus a separate Anderson plug for charging it's batteries.

[Turtle60]

From my own recent hard learnt experience that size cable from the large round will not top up your batteries at all. I think that’s what you said you wanted it for. It may run led lights etc. Perhaps bite the bullet and have a dedicated Anderson plug at the rear. Fairly uncomplicated install. I ran just one big positive from battery and a big short ground to a earth screw shared by the spare tyre winch and it works perfect. Even reasonable size cable is pretty useless. Use BiG cable (5mm ID) and fuse it. No need for dc dc charger then either. I know that’s not what you asked but I don’t think what you want to do will work as you hope.

Good luck Steve

[Mrhigherbeing]

I’ll bite the bullet. Cheers y’all

[DiscoMick]

My recommendation is to use 6mm cable, 60 amp fuses and Anderson plugs on both the vehicle and trailer and the trailer will charge rapidly without any need for a DC-DC charger, which saves money.
For the trailer lights and brakes just use a normal trailer plug as they don't need much power. Ours is a flat plug.
This setup is working fine on our new camper. It's simple, cheap and reliable.

[Eric SDV6SE]

I run that setup but with one key difference, I fitted the Intervolt solid state battery isolation switch between the car main battery and the 50A Anderson plug running to the rear of the car. I use the Anderson to charge my camper AGM battery without a dc2dc charger, this works perfectly. This battery also runs the camper fridge and lights etc.

From hard won experience in Karajini NP the camper battery will drain the car battery flat if not disconnected from the car. The intervolt SSI automatically disconnects main and camper batteries at voltage levels you can program. This ensures that the main cranking battery is available for starting the car, regardless of being hooked up to a camper or aux battery.

Redarc do these as well but they are not solid state and not programmable.

No need for a dc2dc, but I'd definitely recommend an insulator switch of some kind.

[DiscoMick]

I run that setup but with one key difference, I fitted the Intervolt solid state battery isolation switch between the car main battery and the 50A Anderson plug running to the rear of the car. I use the Anderson to charge my camper AGM battery without a dc2dc charger, this works perfectly. This battery also runs the camper fridge and lights etc.

From hard won experience in Karajini NP the camper battery will drain the car battery flat if not disconnected from the car. The intervolt SSI automatically disconnects main and camper batteries at voltage levels you can program. This ensures that the main cranking battery is available for starting the car, regardless of being hooked up to a camper or aux battery.

Redarc do these as well but they are not solid state and not programmable.

No need for a dc2dc, but I'd definitely recommend an insulator switch of some kind.
Sounds good. In our case there is a Traxide DBC between the starting and second batteries in the Defender. An 80 watt solar panel on the roof keeps the starting battery charged at all times. That means the Traxide connects the two batteries. The Defender's Anderson trailer plug runs straight from the main power supply from the alternator, so the trailer can't drain the batteries in the Defender as they are not directly connected. The camper also has a safety switch at it's twin batteries.
When camped I plug 160 watt folding solar panels to the Anderson plug on the camper, which keeps its twin batteries charged. Works well.

[weeds]

Sounds good. In our case there is a Traxide DBC between the starting and second batteries in the Defender. An 80 watt solar panel on the roof keeps the starting battery charged at all times. That means the Traxide connects the two batteries. The Defender's Anderson trailer plug runs straight from the main power supply from the alternator, so the trailer can't drain the batteries in the Defender as they are not directly connected. The camper also has a safety switch at it's twin batteries.
When camped I plug 160 watt folding solar panels to the Anderson plug on the camper, which keeps its twin batteries charged. Works well.

Umm, if your Anderson plug wiring for the trailer is connected to the back of the alternator I’m thinking it can draw from the starter given the starter has a connection the the alternator.

I have my trailer Anderson connected to the AUX battery which means the isolator separates the start from all other barriers.

[DiscoMick]

Umm, if your Anderson plug wiring for the trailer is connected to the back of the alternator I’m thinking it can draw from the starter given the starter has a connection the the alternator.

I have my trailer Anderson connected to the AUX battery which means the isolator separates the start from all other barriers.The auto electrician connected it to the main power feed just before the starting battery.

[drivesafe]

My recommendation is to use 6mm cable, 60 amp fuses and Anderson plugs
I think you mean 6B&S cable ( 13.5mm2 ) and NOT 6mm cable which is actually 4.5mm2.

[BMKal]

I’ll bite the bullet. Cheers y’all

If you're going to "bite the bullet" - contact Drivesafe on here at Traxide and consider fitting one of his purpose made kits. Far safer than some bodgy wiring system with no protection / isolation of the main cranking battery. The Traxide systems can be tailored to your specific requirements and are easy to install (I put mine in at home - took me all of about two hours) and provide an Anderson plug at the back of the vehicle specifically for powering your trailer etc WITHOUT the risk of draining your main cranking battery overnight should you forget to disconnect.

The instructions that come with a Traxide kit alone are worth their weight in gold, as they show you in detail how / where to run your cable to the back of the vehicle, with specific detail on how to remove / replace trim panels in the vehicle etc.

[DiscoMick]

I think you mean 6B&S cable ( 13.5mm2 ) and NOT 6mm cable which is actually 4.5mm2.Correct. My bad.