MY12 D4 - individual doors not locking or unlocking

[twr7cx]

Our MY12 has developed a new trick where not all the doors are locking or unlocking.

When locking the vehicle all doors lock except for the drivers side rear passenger door which can be opened (on doing so the alarm sounds). If this door is manually locked from inside then it cannot be opened externally.

When unlocking only the drivers front door and the tailgate/tall door unlock. All other stay locked. They can be manually unlocked from inside the cabin and then the external door handles operate.

A scan using the IID Tool provided:


L319 - Discovery 4 2012Vehicle scanned on 08-03-2019 10:54
Using IIDTool BT V3.0 B2643


BCM-Body Control


U0214-00 (28) Lost communication with the remote function actuation
( on 03-03-2019 14:39:06 at 153846 km )

DDM-Driver Door


B110A-11 (2F) Rear door driver side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground
( on 07-03-2019 17:13:54 at 153847 km )
B1164-15 (6C) Right mirror heater output - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
( on 07-03-2019 17:00:27 at 153846 km )


FCDIM-Front Control


U2101-00 (0F) Control module configuration incompatible


PDM-Passenger Door


B1109-11 (2F) Passenger's door central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground
( on 03-03-2019 17:38:18 at 153846 km )
B110B-11 (2F) Rear door passenger side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground
( on 07-03-2019 17:13:54 at 153847 km )



After clearing those and having a play with the doors, locks and the SmartKey and then scanning again it provided:


L319 - Discovery 4 2012
Vehicle scanned on 08-03-2019 11:19
Using IIDTool BT V3.0 B2643

BCM-Body Control


B1B01-87 (2E) Key transponder - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 08-03-2019 11:18:26 at 153856 km )

DDM-Driver Door


B110A-11 (2F) Rear door driver side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground
( on 08-03-2019 10:58:11 at 153852 km )

FCDIM-Front Control


U2101-00 (0F) Control module configuration incompatible


PDM-Passenger Door


B10EC-15 (2E) Passenger's door double locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
( on 08-03-2019 10:59:14 at 153852 km )
B1109-11 (2F) Passenger's door central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground
( on 08-03-2019 10:58:07 at 153852 km )
B110B-11 (2F) Rear door passenger side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground
( on 08-03-2019 10:58:11 at 153852 km )



B110A-11 (2F) Rear door driver side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground, U2101-00 (0F) Control module configuration incompatible, B1109-11 (2F) Passenger's door central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground and B110B-11 (2F) Rear door passenger side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground are common faults to both scans.

Any insights in how to resolve? From what I have read the door lock actuators have a high failure rate on the D3/4. When they fail, do they result in error codes such as the above? I.e. would the above error codes be caused by those three doors having failed actuators so the solution is to just replace them (e.g. following DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Replacing door latch / window regulator - Now with guide (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/replacing-door-latch-window-regulator-now-with-guide-33743.html) ), or would it be something more sinister?


There was also a Check Engine Light issue faults due to the 'Intake air temperature sensor 1' that I assume is a seperate issue so have not quoted above, and have posted about in https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/269366-m12-d4-2-7l-tdv6-check-engine-light-intake-air-temperature-sensor-1-a.html#post2890193

[goofyr]

Our MY12 has developed a new trick where not all the doors are locking or unlocking.

When locking the vehicle all doors lock except for the drivers side rear passenger door which can be opened (on doing so the alarm sounds). If this door is manually locked from inside then it cannot be opened externally.

When unlocking only the drivers front door and the tailgate/tall door unlock. All other stay locked. They can be manually unlocked from inside the cabin and then the external door handles operate.

A scan using the IID Tool provided:



After clearing those and having a play with the doors, locks and the SmartKey and then scanning again it provided:



B110A-11 (2F) Rear door driver side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground, U2101-00 (0F) Control module configuration incompatible, B1109-11 (2F) Passenger's door central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground and B110B-11 (2F) Rear door passenger side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground are common faults to both scans.

Any insights in how to resolve? From what I have read the door lock actuators have a high failure rate on the D3/4. When they fail, do they result in error codes such as the above? I.e. would the above error codes be caused by those three doors having failed actuators so the solution is to just replace them (e.g. following DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Replacing door latch / window regulator - Now with guide (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/replacing-door-latch-window-regulator-now-with-guide-33743.html) ), or would it be something more sinister?


There was also a Check Engine Light issue faults due to the 'Intake air temperature sensor 1' that I assume is a seperate issue so have not quoted above, and have posted about in https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/269366-m12-d4-2-7l-tdv6-check-engine-light-intake-air-temperature-sensor-1-a.html#post2890193

I had a similar problem with the driver’s door I cleared all faults and after an interstate drive the problem hasn’t come up again so I put it to some issue with my car battery. I have also reprogrammed all my keys with the IIDTOOL as I got a 3rd key and noticed that all keys respond better now, when previously I thought I had battery problems in the keys as I had to press lock/unlock buttons multiple times to get them to work.

[DiscoMick]

I don't know about D4s, but when one of the rear doors on my Defender stopped working on the remote, but could be locked manually, it turned out to be that a wire which runs through a conduit from the centre pillar to the door had broken. Reconnecting the wire fixed the problem.
Does your D4 have a wire running through a conduit from the centre pillar to the door? Might be worth checking.

[twr7cx]

I have also reprogrammed all my keys with the IIDTOOL as I got a 3rd key and noticed that all keys respond better now, when previously I thought I had battery problems in the keys as I had to press lock/unlock buttons multiple times to get them to work.

I just programmed two new keys with the IIDTool and they have the same issue.


Watched a couple of YouTube videos about the failed door lock actuators in D3/4's and looks to me like that's likely what the problem is as the interior lock latch does move just a tad from the motor which is what they generally did in the videos of the failed units too. I've seen some discussion about it generally being the motor brushes that go and that they're a fairly common standard size so will pull one out and take a look.

[kenl]

It is not so much that the the brushes go, they just gunk up, I pulled one apart and cleaned up the brushes about 5 years ago and it is still going, in the mean time the replacement actuator (bought on aliexpress) still sits in the drawer.

[twr7cx]

It is not so much that the the brushes go, they just gunk up, I pulled one apart and cleaned up the brushes about 5 years ago and it is still going, in the mean time the replacement actuator (bought on aliexpress) still sits in the drawer.

Handy to know.

I noticed last night that Aliexpress has them available for dirt cheap. Any thoughts on the build quality? From the number of failures it would seem that genuine quality is a bit lacking anyways...

[kenl]

I haven't had the opportunity to compare them side by side but the new unit looks good and seems well put together. I would not be at all surprised if they are from the same factory, I also recall that the same unit is used in other cars as well? But not sure on that one..

[twr7cx]

I also recall that the same unit is used in other cars as well? But not sure on that one..

I believe D3/4, Disco Sport and RR Evoque.

[Towcar]

I think I posted a thread on this a few months back. $50 or so on eBay for a door lock actuator and 45 mins to replace, maybe 1 hr if first time...

[twr7cx]

I think I posted a thread on this a few months back.

Found it at https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/268490-disco-rrs-rear-left-door-lock-actuator-replacement.html

Happy with the quality of the eBay one? They’re holding up ok?

[Towcar]

Yes eBay one is same quality from what I could tell. No difference either.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/268490-disco-rrs-rear-left-door-lock-actuator-replacement.html#post2879690

They didn't advertise the range Rover only JAG...Chinese is think. But I'm guessing these parts are made in China or come from the same parts bin.

[twr7cx]

For anyone reading this in the future, a year and a bit later and only two out of the three AliExpress replacement units work consistently. The third one requires you to unlock up to 10 or so times before it unlocks the door allowing you to open.

I still have the original units which I’ve been planning to try and open up to clean inside as per kenl’s earlier suggestion.

[DiscoJeffster]

I used a Britpart one that only lasted two years. It’s now flaky. I’ve ordered a genuine as a replacement as they last longer. Also the copy didn’t have the same mechanical feel as the genuine and made it feel cheap.
I’ll fit the new one next week.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Ive got an e-bay sourced drivers side locking module sitting in my garage ready to go in as the original one was playing up and actually logged a code.

I reckon the car knows its there as its been behaving itself since it arrived, I guess she doesnt like having her door interiors interfered with....

[DiscoMick]

Have checked that power is reaching the actuator? I'm not familiar with D4s, but in Defenders there is a wire running through a rubber sheath to the doors which can get pinched and stop power reaching the actuator. Might be worth checking. Just a thought.

[StewG]

I have had both rear passenger doors fail. Three years ago the RH door wouldn't lock except by manually shutting the lever and then it only unlocked manually. The Stealer charged me $500 to fix it. The LH door failed about a year ago and now works intermittently - I haven't bothered to fix it. We don't use it very often and not at all the past six months of lock-down/isolation. One day, if we are allowed out of home (Melbourne), I might have a go at cleaning the actuator - it still tries to open electrically.

[BradC]

It is not so much that the the brushes go, they just gunk up, I pulled one apart and cleaned up the brushes about 5 years ago and it is still going, in the mean time the replacement actuator (bought on aliexpress) still sits in the drawer.

Exactly. These motors never do more than about 10 revolutions in either direction and never get up to any form of speed that would throw gunk off the commutator. They also spend a lot of time powered while stationary and often across commutator segments where they cause a bit of arcing. Think already locked but trying to lock or vice versa. This causes quite a bit of carbon to be ejected from the brushes and the commutator to grunge up as there's never enough motion to clean it off.

Pulling the end bell off the motor can be a challenge the first couple of times. I generally unpick the peened sections as best I can and then push on the gear until it pushes the bell off.

I strip them down, clean everything thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, polish the commutator if required, lube the front bearing with some ISO 32 synthetic oil and the rear shell (where the shaft sits in the nylon end bell) with some specific plastic rated grease. I've never had to re-do one. The lubrication is probably over the top, but I already have the stuff so it's a case of "why not?".

I've only had to do 2 on the D3, but done heaps on VW golfs. Same deal. Same motor except the shaft is longer on the Disco units.

I also found a source for the motors and bought 4 just in case, but haven't had one fail again after reworking it.

[DiscoJeffster]

I bought motors at one point but couldn’t swap the gear over successfully. I’ve since seen them supplied with gears which would be easier.

[BradC]

I bought motors at one point but couldn’t swap the gear over successfully. I’ve since seen them supplied with gears which would be easier.

I have a specific gear puller set for that particular shaft size. I couldn’t find them with the right sized gear. Not that I’ve had to use the spares yet anyway.

[paul_v]

I also found a source for the motors and bought 4 just in case, but haven't had one fail again after reworking it.


Interesting - can you please share where you sourced the motors from? I've got a faulty front passenger door lock and am keen to pull it apart myself and fix.

[BradC]

Interesting - can you please share where you sourced the motors from? I've got a faulty front passenger door lock and am keen to pull it apart myself and fix.

Alibaba. The first 4 I bought had no gears and smooth shafts. The ones in the car had splines to retain the gears. I did end up swapping one over and put the gear on with loctite bearing retainer back in April 21 and that is still working. That was the one I rebuilt in 2017, so I got another few years out of it.

In the mean time I found a set with gears so I bought a set of those also : For Land Rover Door Lock Motor For Freelander 2 Range Rover Sports Version Found 3 4 Aurora Worm Central Lock Engine Parts Dc 12 - Cables, Adapters & Sockets - AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962323671.html)

They look about right, but haven't had to fix one yet. The rear drivers door is playing up a bit so I suppose I'll find out when the weather improves.