Replace torque converter or rebuild trans?

[CanadianRyan]

My '08 TDV6 is starting to display the signs of torque converter shudder / failure. This is a little surprising since it only has 160k on the clock, and the gearbox has been flushed three times in its life. I don't do much towing, but when I do it's a fairly lightweight camper trailer. The car has only began towing in the last 20K or so. Alas, on the last trip it threw code P0741-00 and now has light shudder at low RPMs.

SO, the question is do I just replace the torque converter or get a full rebuild done? I can get a new torque converter fitted for around $2800 and a full rebuild for $7500 - big difference in cost.

I don't have any other gearbox symptoms and shifting has always been smooth.

Is there any reason to do the full rebuild? What's likely to fail in these boxes? Is there any way to test the box to assess its current state of health? Any advice appreciated!
Ryan

[PerthDisco]

Sorry to hear.
Was that advice of the workshop mechanic or the transmission specialist shop?

Reading hear recently about using a couple of bottles of Dr Tranny as a solution with good success rate when used for early ‘glazing’ shudder symptoms.

D3 TDV6 torque convertor problem
D3 TDV6 torque convertor problem (https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink'share_fid=669&share_tid=155350&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaulro%2Ecom%2Fafvb%2Fshowt hread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D155350&share_type=t)

Good luck.

[TFromT]

Will present my similar story that could assist you in making a decision..

My 2.7 RRS began to experience very light shudder at around 90km/h not long after i bought the car (~210k km). I got another 50k out of it before the shudder got any worse. Was now getting a 'hot smell' when in sport mode for extended periods, and then not too long after (5-10k km?), began getting trans overheating error codes when in sport mode for more than 10mins or so (i.e. when the converter is permanently locked). Revs would fluctuate as it was trying to lock converter in non-sport mode as well; obviously time to sort it out!!

Mechanic reckoned a new torque converter and several trans oil flushes and filters would get the gearbox to a point it would see out the rest of the car out (it at around 265k km at this stage), and save some money. So with new converter and good flush (to get all the burnt oil and crud out) there was immediate improvement and gearbox behaves just as it should. An occasional clunky shift between 3rd to 2nd still present which I think signifies the condition of the remainder of the tranny, but otherwise happy to have saved the money by only replacing the torque converter. Have done 10k km since this and so far feel like it will see out the remainder of the car (at 275k km now).

So from my experience, if any clunkiness between gears then possibly points to overall condition of tranny, and perhaps full rebuild request considering low-km on the vehicle. If it is just acting up when converter locked (or attempting to), then perhaps just a torque converter? Hope all this ramble can help you along somehow!

[gavinwibrow]

My '08 TDV6 is starting to display the signs of torque converter shudder / failure. This is a little surprising since it only has 160k on the clock, and the gearbox has been flushed three times in its life. I don't do much towing, but when I do it's a fairly lightweight camper trailer. The car has only began towing in the last 20K or so. Alas, on the last trip it threw code P0741-00 and now has light shudder at low RPMs.

SO, the question is do I just replace the torque converter or get a full rebuild done? I can get a new torque converter fitted for around $2800 and a full rebuild for $7500 - big difference in cost.

I don't have any other gearbox symptoms and shifting has always been smooth.

Is there any reason to do the full rebuild? What's likely to fail in these boxes? Is there any way to test the box to assess its current state of health? Any advice appreciated!
Ryan

Cant hurt to have a talk with Cameron at Auto Trans R Us in Balcatta - proper straight shooter and the WA gurus/go to for transmissions. Highly recommended/very approachable/drives a 4WD.

[CanadianRyan]

Sorry to hear.
Was that advice of the workshop mechanic or the transmission specialist shop?

Reading hear recently about using a couple of bottles of Dr Tranny as a solution with good success rate when used for early ‘glazing’ shudder symptoms.

D3 TDV6 torque convertor problem
D3 TDV6 torque convertor problem (https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink'share_fid=669&share_tid=155350&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaulro%2Ecom%2Fafvb%2Fshowt hread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D155350&share_type=t)

Good luck.

Thanks. Yes I've read about Dr Tranny as a temporary solution which might last 10-20K extra kms before other work should be done. I might give it a go, but curious to know what others think about the longer term solutions as I hope to keep the car for a long time. Cheers
Ryan

[brad72]

Well I feel I can speak from experience now as I put up with terrible shuddering for 40,000km and had a full rebuild done this week and pick the car up tomorrow. My shifting was fine and no errors codes ever came up. 200,000 km on my box.

My shuddering started intermittently on light throttle in 3rd at 1600-1800. Over time it moved to 4th, 5th and 6th and would shudder up to 2,400rpm. At 110kmh the shudder would go as the TC would not modulate, the same as in 1st and 2nd. Shudder Fixx worked for around 4,000km, then the second tube for another 2,000km. It then got steadily worse . Hills around town needed to be tackled in 2nd or gun it in 3rd and get the revs over 2500rpm. Pretty annoying as you can imagine. Shuddering in the last 20,000km was in both light and heavy throttle.

So, the plan was to just replace the TC if the rest of the parts looked ok or do the rebuild.

The shop removed the box, sent off the TC for a rebuild, then checked the valve body for leaks using the vacuum tester. TC shudder is often caused by wear in the valves which cause pressure drops. In my box the valve body was perfect but when dismantled all of the bushes were flogged plus the clutches were starting to go so a full rebuild was the most sensible choice given we are keeping the vehicle. I only got as long as i did because I drove it more like a manual (in sports mode), lifted the foot as soon as a shudder was felt, and live on the coast so pretty flat.

Have to admit it is pretty impressive seeing all the components out on the workbench when you see how small a space they fit into.

The issue of only doing the TC and servicing the valve body is if other components fail down the track the TC would need to be replaced again (due to getting contaminated by debris) when a full rebuild is done. Being able to carefully inspect the components however when the box is out will enable an educated decision.

Apparently when the boxes were build the filter was quite a large micron one so it wouldn't block during the warranty period (sealed for life). This means that not all the contaminants get caught which start to wear the bushes and valves. Contaminants also collect in the perimeter of the TC due to the centrifugal force. When we change the oil and fit the lower micron filter, some of these contaminants come loose and can accelerate the wear and cause faster failure.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Well I feel I can speak from experience now as I put up with terrible shuddering for 40,000km and had a full rebuild done this week and pick the car up tomorrow. My shifting was fine and no errors codes ever came up. 200,000 km on my box.

My shuddering started intermittently on light throttle in 3rd at 1600-1800. Over time it moved to 4th, 5th and 6th and would shudder up to 2,400rpm. At 110kmh the shudder would go as the TC would not modulate, the same as in 1st and 2nd. Shudder Fixx worked for around 4,000km, then the second tube for another 2,000km. It then got steadily worse . Hills around town needed to be tackled in 2nd or gun it in 3rd and get the revs over 2500rpm. Pretty annoying as you can imagine. Shuddering in the last 20,000km was in both light and heavy throttle.

So, the plan was to just replace the TC if the rest of the parts looked ok or do a rebuild.

The shop removed the box, sent off the TC for a rebuild, then checked the valve body for leaks using the vacuum tester. TC shudder is often caused by wear in the valves which cause pressure drops. In my box the valve body was perfect but when dismantled all of the bushes were flogged plus the clutches were starting to go so a full rebuild was the most sensible choice given we are keeping the vehicle. I only got as long as i did because I drove it more like a manual (in sports mode), lifted the foot as soon as a shudder was felt, and live on the coast so pretty flat.

Have to admit it is pretty impressive seeing all the components out on the workbench when you see how small a space they fit into.

The issue of only doing the TC and servicing the valve body is if other components fail down the track the TC would need to be replaced again (due to getting contaminated by debris) when a full rebuild is done. Being able to carefully inspect the components however when the box is out will enable an educated decision.

Apparently when the boxes were build the filter was quite a large micron one so it wouldn't block during the warranty period (sealed for life). This means that not all the contaminants get caught which start to wear the bushes and valves. Contaminants also collect in the perimeter of the TC due to the centrifugal force. When we change the oil and fit the lower micron filter, some of these contaminants come loose and can accelerate the wear and cause faster failure.

Great read. Just out of interest, did they end up servicing the valve body too? Would make sense to me if doing a full transmission rebuild. You said it was still perfect? My transmission was not shuddering, but shifts were rough. I replaced the end seals, accumulators and valve o rings as well as solenoids. Made a huge difference. The valve body also has an inbuilt filter that clogs and the ends of the galleries get blocked up too.

I reckon with that rebuild and regular fluid changes you're set for next 200,000km. Thanks for the post

[brad72]

Great read. Just out of interest, did they end up servicing the valve body too? Would make sense to me if doing a full transmission rebuild. You said it was still perfect? My transmission was not shuddering, but shifts were rough. I replaced the end seals, accumulators and valve o rings as well as solenoids. Made a huge difference. The valve body also has an inbuilt filter that clogs and the ends of the galleries get blocked up too.

I reckon with that rebuild and regular fluid changes you're set for next 200,000km. Thanks for the post

Thanks Eric

Yep valve body was rebuilt as well. I think the guys were surprised it passed the vacuum test more than anything, and so was i tbh.

Fluid change and filter every 40,000 or 12 months now. He said the lower micron after market filters that come with the steel pan a make a big difference. On my valve body you could see the separator plate gasket material had started to go also, although mainly around teh perimeter.

Below is the gearbox in pieces to decide whether to do a full rebuild or not. They do this as part of the TC and Valve body service.

150577150578

[CanadianRyan]

Thanks Eric

Yep valve body was rebuilt as well. I think the guys were surprised it passed the vacuum test more than anything, and so was i tbh.

Fluid change and filter every 40,000 or 12 months now. He said the lower micron after market filters that come with the steel pan a make a big difference. On my valve body you could see the separator plate gasket material had started to go also, although mainly around teh perimeter.

Below is the gearbox in pieces to decide whether to do a full rebuild or not. They do this as part of the TC and Valve body service.



Thanks for the detailed write up. I wonder if any shops in Perth would go to this sort of effort to inspect / diagnose the issues before repairing. The two places I've spoken to over the phone both suggest rebuild - one would remove it and ship it to Sydney for rebuild by ZF, the other would swap it for a reconditioned unit on their shelf (apparently they keep 2 in stock at all times). Both options are $7500. Given the age of the car and its market value I hesitate to spend about 35-40% of the cars value on a rebuild, especially since I just paid for a new engine install a few months ago. On the other hand I don't want to do a part-fix which will have to be re-done again in a few years. Decisions decisions.
Ryan

[Bewitched]

Thanks for the detailed write up. I wonder if any shops in Perth would go to this sort of effort to inspect / diagnose the issues before repairing. The two places I've spoken to over the phone both suggest rebuild - one would remove it and ship it to Sydney for rebuild by ZF, the other would swap it for a reconditioned unit on their shelf (apparently they keep 2 in stock at all times). Both options are $7500. Given the age of the car and its market value I hesitate to spend about 35-40% of the cars value on a rebuild, especially since I just paid for a new engine install a few months ago. On the other hand I don't want to do a part-fix which will have to be re-done again in a few years. Decisions decisions.
Ryan

It's always hard to make a big dollar repair decision on a vehicle of moderate value. Best way I've found to reconcile these types of decisions is with "man maths". If you are looking for a reason to change to another car, the repair cost you will otherwise incur is added to the trade or taken from the price of the new car, and that becomes your scenario One. Works best if you have another vehicle in mind to fully reconcile this calculation in your mind to consider the effect of your $7,500 "discount".

If, however, you have already made the decision to keep the vehicle (which you appear to have done in this case), then the easiest reconciliation on the costs is to divide the repair bill by the expected time you expect to keep the vehicle. If that time frame is another ten years for example, then the rebuild cost (the option most likely to give another ten years of service) then you have a cost of $750 per year which is not the biggest cost you will spend on the vehicle for sure, and is perhaps pretty reasonable when looked at like that. In ten years' time the value of this vehicle will not really be relevant in any event, and with new engine and gearbox as major mechanical components you should have few issues if any with them (at least) over that time.

Likewise the TC replacement may give you a few more years, but other components in the gearbox not changed now may fail inside three or four years (even sooner), and you have to spend the same money again and do the whole rebuild. You need to get at least 4 years (3.73 to be precise) out of the TC change only without needing rebuild before you were better off getting the full rebuild now.

Man maths at work!

Doesn't help the bank balance when you look at it, but at least puts the options into perspective on some sort of basis to look at the cost-benefit of the options in terms of the life extension provided.

Good luck with your deliberations, and at least a tube or so of Dr Tranny might give you some breathing space in your decision making.

[PhilipA]

I just wonder what woman maths looks like.

$7500? That would buy a new kitchen/bathroom.

Regards Philip A

[Bewitched]

I just wonder what woman maths looks like.

$7500? That would buy a new kitchen/bathroom.

Regards Philip A

Yeah something along those lines. Or a really nice holiday for the whole family. Generally woman maths is waaaaaay more practical than man maths, which is why man maths is so easily misunderstood that it needs to be kept secret... [tonguewink]

Woman maths almost never involves things with wheels or fishing rod holders attached. Man maths almost always does. There's the issue...

[bigwhistle]

[brad72]

Thanks for the detailed write up. I wonder if any shops in Perth would go to this sort of effort to inspect / diagnose the issues before repairing. The two places I've spoken to over the phone both suggest rebuild - one would remove it and ship it to Sydney for rebuild by ZF, the other would swap it for a reconditioned unit on their shelf (apparently they keep 2 in stock at all times). Both options are $7500. Given the age of the car and its market value I hesitate to spend about 35-40% of the cars value on a rebuild, especially since I just paid for a new engine install a few months ago. On the other hand I don't want to do a part-fix which will have to be re-done again in a few years. Decisions decisions.
Ryan

It is a hard decision in deed. Had my D4 for 9 years now and to be honest couldn't buy a car with its level of performance and luxury for close to the tranny rebuild cost. Man it's hard to find a crap car these days for under $10k

The repair guys knew from my description that the TC was a definite and when he took it for a test drive, as soon as he felt the shudder in 3rd I booked it in. My cars shudder was really bad in the end, although when cold on some days it was perfect (TC doesn't try to lock until oil temp is reached). I still managed to get over 12 months more life out of the gearbox from when the problem started back in March of last year but in the end I was more worried of getting stuck on the side of the road. If it's not too bad perhaps hold off for now?

If you haven't tried instant shudder fixx yet it is certainly worth a go. Also you might have a faulty valve body. The TC piston can wear in it's sleeve due the high oscillation rate when it pulse width modulates the TC which then reduces the pressure to the TC. Sonnax makes kits with new pistons to fix this without having to ream out sleeve but a vacuum test of the valve body however would pinpoint any issues.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Thanks Eric

Yep valve body was rebuilt as well. I think the guys were surprised it passed the vacuum test more than anything, and so was i tbh.

Fluid change and filter every 40,000 or 12 months now. He said the lower micron after market filters that come with the steel pan a make a big difference. On my valve body you could see the separator plate gasket material had started to go also, although mainly around teh perimeter.

Below is the gearbox in pieces to decide whether to do a full rebuild or not. They do this as part of the TC and Valve body service.

150577150578

When I rebuilt the vb in mine, the separator plate was replaced, there was areas on the old one where fluid had tracked between galleries and same as yours the sealant around the edges had started to go. I'm hoping I caught mine in time, since the valve body rebuild I've got no shudder, shift or hesitation issues. Fluid I'm running is penrite bmv and just done 23,000 km.

I was also impressed by how clean the internals were after ~178000km

[Eric SDV6SE]

It is a hard decision in deed. Had my D4 for 9 years now and to be honest couldn't buy a car with its level of performance and luxury for close to the tranny rebuild cost. Man it's hard to find a crap car these days for under $10k

The repair guys knew from my description that the TC was a definite and when he took it for a test drive, as soon as he felt the shudder in 3rd I booked it in. My cars shudder was really bad in the end, although when cold on some days it was perfect (TC doesn't try to lock until oil temp is reached). I still managed to get over 12 months more life out of the gearbox from when the problem started back in March of last year but in the end I was more worried of getting stuck on the side of the road. If it's not too bad perhaps hold off for now?

If you haven't tried instant shudder fixx yet it is certainly worth a go. Also you might have a faulty valve body. The TC piston can wear in it's sleeve due the high oscillation rate when it pulse width modulates the TC which then reduces the pressure to the TC. Sonnax makes kits with new pistons to fix this without having to ream out sleeve but a vacuum test of the valve body however would pinpoint any issues.

That's why I bought the Sonnax Gen2zip kit, has all the replacement cylinder and seals for the valve body. I reckon if you've done over 120,00km and have no TC shudder then the Sonnax kit makes a lot of sense.

[SeanC]

Thanks for the detailed write up. I wonder if any shops in Perth would go to this sort of effort to inspect / diagnose the issues before repairing. The two places I've spoken to over the phone both suggest rebuild - one would remove it and ship it to Sydney for rebuild by ZF, the other would swap it for a reconditioned unit on their shelf (apparently they keep 2 in stock at all times). Both options are $7500. Given the age of the car and its market value I hesitate to spend about 35-40% of the cars value on a rebuild, especially since I just paid for a new engine install a few months ago. On the other hand I don't want to do a part-fix which will have to be re-done again in a few years. Decisions decisions.
Ryan

Maybe my man’s maths isn’t as it should be, but if I had just replaced the engine I would be more likely to do a rebuild. If money and woman’s maths allowed of course.You then had a D3 with the two most costly parts theoretically “problem free” for many years to come. My D3 has done 220,000kms and I haven’t reached the stage when every service requires something else replaced. I’m planning to hold onto mine and have factored a transmission rebuild and an engine replacement at sometime. A transmission oil change gave me 20,000 kms before the shudder came back. Might get another 5-10,000kms before a rebuild. Am going to do a rebuild rather than just the TC.

[SeanC]

Maybe my man’s maths isn’t as it should be, but if I had just replaced the engine I would be more likely to do a rebuild. If money and woman’s maths allowed of course.You then had a D3 with the two most costly parts theoretically “problem free” for many years to come. My D3 has done 220,000kms and I haven’t reached the stage when every service requires something else replaced. I’m planning to hold onto mine and have factored a transmission rebuild and an engine replacement at sometime. A transmission oil change gave me 20,000 kms before the shudder came back. Might get another 5-10,000kms before a rebuild. Am going to do a rebuild rather than just the TC.

Forgot to say a transmission oil change AND a tube of Dr. Tranny.

[RANDLOVER]

I wonder if this might be an option? "The 6R is a six-speed automatic transmission (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_transmission) for longitudinal engine (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longitudinal_engine) placement in rear-wheel drive (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rear-wheel_drive) vehicles. It is based on the ZF 6HP26 transmission (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_6HP26_transmission)[1] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_6R_transmission#cite_note-1) and is built under license by the Ford Motor Company (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Motor_Company) at its Livonia Transmission (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livonia_Transmission) plant in Livonia, Michigan (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livonia,_Michigan). The 6R debuted in 2005 in the 2006 model year (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_year) Ford Explorer (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Explorer) and Mercury Mountaineer (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_Mountaineer)."

It also mentions it is used in the Ford Territory. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_6R_transmission

[loanrangie]

I wonder if this might be an option? "The 6R is a six-speed automatic transmission (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_transmission) for longitudinal engine (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longitudinal_engine) placement in rear-wheel drive (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rear-wheel_drive) vehicles. It is based on the ZF 6HP26 transmission (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_6HP26_transmission)[1] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_6R_transmission#cite_note-1) and is built under license by the Ford Motor Company (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Motor_Company) at its Livonia Transmission (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livonia_Transmission) plant in Livonia, Michigan (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livonia,_Michigan). The 6R debuted in 2005 in the 2006 model year (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_year) Ford Explorer (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Explorer) and Mercury Mountaineer (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_Mountaineer)."

It also mentions it is used in the Ford Territory. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_6R_transmission

I doubt the ecu would talk to a 6R trans, doing a google search there are a few builders beefing these up to take 400kw for Falcons for a lot less than the usual 6-7 plus k. The internals dont seem to be anything special and Exedy do a HD clutch pack for them, only real difference is the casing for each application.
I will probably find a used one to rebuild.

[Azza_LR3]

Forgot to say a transmission oil change AND a tube of Dr. Tranny.

Ive had the tranny shudder for a while. I started with a good flush and oil change, and since put 2 tube os Dr Tranny through it. Unfortunately im at the same point as Ryan. I have to bite the bullet and swap out the convertor. Question is wether or not to do a rebuild or not. Ill opt for the steel sump as it holds more oil too. (Previous experience with a Territory, is the extra oil, keeps down trans oil temps, therefore aids in lifespan when frequently towing.)

But one point, that seems to be overlooked here is this, has anyone added a 2nd Transcooler, or a larger aftermarket one, as keeping the oil cooler even by uptown 10deg cel, can increase lifespan. As its quite common for some to fit a watchdog, or similar to monitor the oil temps.. Just curious..

As, im at the point where the convertor is getting replaced, and on the fence about a rebuild trans, so whilst im there it makes smart sense to help the oil stay cooler, or at least fit a gauge..

Any suggestions?

[loanrangie]

Ive had the tranny shudder for a while. I started with a good flush and oil change, and since put 2 tube os Dr Tranny through it. Unfortunately im at the same point as Ryan. I have to bite the bullet and swap out the convertor. Question is wether or not to do a rebuild or not. Ill opt for the steel sump as it holds more oil too. (Previous experience with a Territory, is the extra oil, keeps down trans oil temps, therefore aids in lifespan when frequently towing.)

But one point, that seems to be overlooked here is this, has anyone added a 2nd Transcooler, or a larger aftermarket one, as keeping the oil cooler even by uptown 10deg cel, can increase lifespan. As its quite common for some to fit a watchdog, or similar to monitor the oil temps.. Just curious..

As, im at the point where the convertor is getting replaced, and on the fence about a rebuild trans, so whilst im there it makes smart sense to help the oil stay cooler, or at least fit a gauge..

Any suggestions?

I believe ShaneGTR has a 2nd cooler, easy to add as the fittings are just normal hose barbs,unless you know for sure that the clutches and stator bushes are badly worn i think rebuilding the valve body as Eric did should sort you out.

[shanegtr]

No extra cooler for me - just an inline filter

[loanrangie]

No extra cooler for me - just an inline filter

I knew it was one or the other [thumbsupbig].

[SeanC]

I had planned to get the torque converter and re-build at the same. Mechanic at MR Automotive talked me out of the rebuild. As I am now towing a 3t boat I got the heavy duty cooler. Hard to say how effective it is as I hadn’t towed the boat with the original cooler, so can’t compare.

[PeterOZ]

Thanks. Yes I've read about Dr Tranny as a temporary solution which might last 10-20K extra kms before other work should be done. I might give it a go, but curious to know what others think about the longer term solutions as I hope to keep the car for a long time. Cheers
Ryan

Definitely do a couple of tubes of Dr tranny, my TC was shuddering terribly around the 1800 RPM with revs fluctuating as it tried to lock up.
I did a triple flush, new seals etc and it was but still shuddering then added three tubes of Dr tranny. Over 18 months now and I am still driving it with no shudder, get a bit of slippage on 3rd but I drive it sedately to prolong its life. It would not be up to beach work that is for sure.

At some point in the near future I expect I will need a new TC and will get the transmissions full overhauled including the mechatronics and solenoids.

I'm hoping to get another 12 months out of it.

Do the triple flush and seals then add Dr tranny. Its a pretty easy job, I did it myself one Saturday morning.

Hope this assists with your decision making and cashflow!

cheers
P

[DHanson]

Would love to know the outcome of this issues...just purchased a 2009 Range Rover sport which has quickly developed a shudder and trans fluid leak😫( also in Perth WA)

[brad72]

Would love to know the outcome of this issues...just purchased a 2009 Range Rover sport which has quickly developed a shudder and trans fluid leak😫( also in Perth WA)

You can start with some Dr TRanny to see how that goes. See if can find where the leak is and fix that then refill to the right oil level. Your tranny might even be low on oil if there's a leak and that might be the issue.

Other option is a transmission service, metal pan and filter and go from there (assuming it doesn't have a metal pan already). They can add Dr tranny as well.

[PerthDisco]

Yes these don’t leak except for a couple of very cheap seals. The 4 seals above the mechatronics unit need changing also and affect smoothness.

You may not have the correct level or the correct fluid. Is the fluid black and burnt smelling or clear and nice?

Is there any evidence of earlier oil changes? At this age without servicing its highly likely the gearbox is not well.