Buying 2014 (or there abouts) D4.

[Dagilmo]

Hi All,

As per previous a thread about a specific D4, I'm looking to buy a later model D4.

I've driven a couple today and I would like peoples thoughts on a couple of things. Both are 2014. HSE with the same options.

63k car at $64k and is set up with triple batteries by Autospark in Ozzy Park, a snorkel and brake controller.

131k km at $50k is from Karratha (Wickham precisely) and has a rack.

Questions:


The 131k car, during the test drive had significantly better performance. It was significantly harder accelerating than my D3 and really pushed me back in the seat. However, the 63k car felt only marginally better than my 3 and nowhere near the other 4. NB: Definitely both SDV6 (on the badge and on Topix). What are peoples thoughts?
This is the second time I have driven the 131k car. The first time last week it had the low battery warning and when started it really struggled to turn it over, but did start it. On driving it today, the guy said that they'd replaced the battery (I confirmed visually) however, near the end of the test drive, a fault came up and HDC, Emergancy Brake Assist (or whatever it is) and something else realated were disabled and car lowered for safety. On returning the guy said, no worries we thought this was the battery, but don't worry it's just be some power draw and the car is turning off these systems to conserve power (this sounds reasonable and plausible). What are peoples thoughts?



Also, if anyone knows the Wickham car that would be good.


Thanks in advance.

[LRD414]

The 131k car, during the test drive had significantly better performance. It was significantly harder accelerating than my D3 and really pushed me back in the seat. However, the 63k car felt only marginally better than my 3 and nowhere near the other 4. NB: Definitely both SDV6 (on the badge and on Topix). What are peoples thoughts? Could have been re-mapped. The 2014 models require the ECU out to be remapped but I don;t think there's any physical way to tell. Also could have one of those throttle controllers.

a fault came up and HDC, Emergancy Brake Assist (or whatever it is) and something else realated were disabled and car lowered for safety. On returning the guy said, no worries we thought this was the battery, but don't worry it's just be some power draw and the car is turning off these systems to conserve power (this sounds reasonable and plausible). What are peoples thoughts?
That is bollocks. There is a problem/fault with the vehicle.

Regards,
Scott

[DiscoMick]

Personally, I'd go for the lowest possible kilometres I could afford.

[Dagilmo]

Hi Scott,

I did think remap. It really goes like a scolded cat. I probably need to drive a couple more to compare. The sales guy talked the difference down saying that adaptations would make a difference and the other car would perform better with some spirited driving....Interesting since he's not wanting me to buy the other car...

Update on faults: The dealer just called and said all fixed now. Was the wheel alignment (now I'm saying that's correct, however it did need an alignment, has had lower control arms replaced just now and whilst it wasn't 'pulling' the steering wheel was on the p#ss a significant amount when driving straight) apparently.... "when you turned the wheel too far it caused it to fault" "Wheel alignment done and all fixed..." I'm calling BS on this one. When it faulted I was on a straight bit of road and just turning slightly into the right turning lane.

[Dagilmo]

Personally, I'd go for the lowest possible kilometres I could afford.


That's been my thoughts also, as this car will be a long term thing for me.......but the difference in driving performance has me thinking [bigwhistle]

[Odysseyman]

I agree with a number of the above comments about buying the lowest kilometres you can afford. The one from the Pilbara May go hard but I would check very thoroughly underneath it as there a lot of gravel roads up there and if it had been remapped could possibly have been driven hard. If you can drive a couple of others for comparison that would be very useful.

Whichever one you choose I would be looking for copies of all service invoices and get a thorough check from a good Indy, before you hand over any money.

I bought my 2016 SD6 HSE with 65000km on it and had a full RACQ check and a lengthy conversation with the testing agent. I had him so worried that he even sent me photos of the very minor scratches in the bottom of the cup holders.
Needless to say, I’m very happy with it.
Cheers
David

[LRD414]

It’s hard to know unless you drive them yourself but gearbox adaptations do make a difference. Whether enough to match your experience I don’t know.

[DiscoMick]

Hi Scott,

I did think remap. It really goes like a scolded cat. I probably need to drive a couple more to compare. The sales guy talked the difference down saying that adaptations would make a difference and the other car would perform better with some spirited driving....Interesting since he's not wanting me to buy the other car...

Update on faults: The dealer just called and said all fixed now. Was the wheel alignment (now I'm saying that's correct, however it did need an alignment, has had lower control arms replaced just now and whilst it wasn't 'pulling' the steering wheel was on the p#ss a significant amount when driving straight) apparently.... "when you turned the wheel too far it caused it to fault" "Wheel alignment done and all fixed..." I'm calling BS on this one. When it faulted I was on a straight bit of road and just turning slightly into the right turning lane.I'm not an expert on these cars so I could be wrong, but is it right that the software does adapt to the driving style, so a car which has been flogged might have developed a different profile to one which has been pottered about. Or is that wrong?

[letherm]

I'm not an expert on these cars so I could be wrong, but is it right that the software does adapt to the driving style, so a car which has been flogged might have developed a different profile to one which has been pottered about. Or is that wrong?

Previous posts on this forum would support that. It will change depending on your driving style. Can't remember how long it takes to do so though.

Martin

[DiscoJeffster]

It’s been reported on here before that when the wheel alignment is too far out it causes various failures messages etc so I would be inclined to believe what they say in that regard.

[Dagilmo]

Previous posts on this forum would support that. It will change depending on your driving style. Can't remember how long it takes to do so though.

Martin

Sales guy said he had a different car (some other brand) and it took 2000kms. Interesting...

[Dagilmo]

It’s been reported on here before that when the wheel alignment is too far out it causes various failures messages etc so I would be inclined to believe what they say in that regard.

Well that's interesting and good with regards to this situation. Thanks for the input.

Cheers David.

[Eric SDV6SE]

My money would be on the lowest km car, ive always bought cars that way and normally works out ok.

having said that though, the higher km car has (most likely) had timing, fuel and accessory belts replaced, plus you mentioned LCA’s, all of which would be due on the lower km car.

gearbox is adaptive, but it should not take very long for it to learn and relearn (mine is like Jekyl and Hyde when tootling around compared to “drive it like you stole it”) The lower km car may need a transmission fluid flush, and if not remapped, this can always be done, at least then you know what mapping you’ve got.

have you been able to download codes from both cars? The lower km car may also have stored error codes.

if it’s going to be a long termer, the initial higher purchase price will not make much difference in the end. I hope for you the lower km car price is still negotiable. Plus the brake controller and BMS is an advantage for camping trips.

lastly, for my MY11 SDV6SE remap, the ecu had to come out as well.

[Dagilmo]

I agree with a number of the above comments about buying the lowest kilometres you can afford. The one from the Pilbara May go hard but I would check very thoroughly underneath it as there a lot of gravel roads up there and if it had been remapped could possibly have been driven hard. If you can drive a couple of others for comparison that would be very useful.

Whichever one you choose I would be looking for copies of all service invoices and get a thorough check from a good Indy, before you hand over any money.

I bought my 2016 SD6 HSE with 65000km on it and had a full RACQ check and a lengthy conversation with the testing agent. I had him so worried that he even sent me photos of the very minor scratches in the bottom of the cup holders.
Needless to say, I’m very happy with it.
Cheers
David

Thanks. Good advice. It has the evidence of the red Pilbara dust in the nooks and crannies that the detailers don't get to...On one sense it means the kms are country and less arduous than city but on the other, means possible hard time offroad...

[Arapiles]

Thanks. Good advice. It has the evidence of the red Pilbara dust in the nooks and crannies that the detailers don't get to...On one sense it means the kms are country and less arduous than city but on the other, means possible hard time offroad...

Those prices looked high, but a quick check on Carsales suggests they may be market. If you don't care about the Ks or having the 2.7l engine then it'd be about $15 - $20k cheaper to get a 2010 onwards.

[Birdboy]

I've spoken to a number of mechanics/engine builders who will tell you a car that is driven sedately from new will result in an engine that is more sluggish and less economical than one that is driven harder from new. Also lots of short trips is nowhere near as good for a Diesel engine as longer trips. I'd reckon the Pilbara one has been driven longer and harder from new and the higher km would attest to that. Coupled with transmission could be all the difference?
Having said that I'm thinking through the same things as you (although not up to the buying stage yet) and I'm planning on as few km as possible too which has been suggested by a number of helpful people here :)