Rebuilding Sid [Archive] - Page 2 - Australian Land Rover Owners

Cadas

17th May 2020, 06:20 PM

Two steps forwards etc....

After sorting the brakes I noticed something dripping near the back left wheel and assumed I must have a leak from the wheel cylinder.

Took the drum off to find it was oil from the axle, it had built up in the drum and me rotating the wheels had disturbed it. On investigation the new hub seal is leaking. Checked the other side and same story. New ‘blue box’ stuff.

So this week has been replacing all the seals with new kelpro ones that happen to be in stock at local repco.

Pain in the ....

Rocket88

18th May 2020, 07:03 AM

whitehillbilly64

18th May 2020, 07:23 AM

Good Morning,
I replaced my leaking blue box ones with kelpro ones from my local Repco.
They still leak, so the seal wasnt the issue. Many UK LR owners have used BB one with no Issues.
I used no sealant when fitting the seals.
My S3 stub axles have the replaceable distance pieces, so put on two new ones, as I had replaced the other two
I think my issue may be the hubs may be slightly out of round, where the seal sits, allowing it to weep.
Picked up some high temp sealant from Repco, and will do the 3 leaking ones, Using the sealant.
Also check your axle breather clear.

whitehillbilly

Cadas

18th May 2020, 07:45 AM

Cadas

18th May 2020, 07:50 AM

Thanks for posting re: your leaking seals. It seems that so many have problems with the fit/finish/functionality/quality of the "Blue Box Bits", but they are still selling all manner of parts. It's just a price thing, right? Customers are attracted by the low cost of these parts comparative to other brands and get caught out a time or two before they learn.

I'm a novice Landy fixxer-upperer and have quite a stash of parts which I've slowly been accumulating as funds permit, in readiness for a number of jobs. This stock of parts includes a number of items in blue boxes so the dilemma of course is do I fit them or put them to one side and buy better? Not a question for anyone else to answer of course, but I raise it because I'm sure there are many others in the same position.

and thanks for showing us the trials and tribulations of working on Sid, he's come a long way!

I’m had mixed experiences. When I set out to restore Sid I read many rebuilds/reviews slating the blue box stuff but I didn’t give it much thought, reasoning that whilst not the best quality, I’m not planning a polar expedition in Sid.

Experience has though been mixed. Most parts are fine and I’ve used them regularly as there’s often little economic alternative.

I have though had some disasters, gear box bearings that were machined out of tolerance, steering box rebuild kids that were oversized.

My reflection now is that I would hesitate to use them where there are critical machine tolerances involved or where replacement is overly difficult So I would not personally buy a bearing, inner seal, etc... but I’ve just bought their brake adjuster kit.

Good luck with the build

Johnno1969

20th May 2020, 08:04 PM

Hmmmmm.... the "Blue Box" thing does seem to keep rearing its head. I've no doubt that some people have had trouble with their stuff - and that others haven't. I have used various parts from them over the years and, while they may not be as good in some applications as more expensive stuff, overall they have been no better, nor any worse, than a number of other brands. On balance, I'd have to say that overall I've got good service out of stuff from those apparently dreaded blue boxes.

I sometimes wonder if the situation is similar to people going on about Land Rovers "always" being unreliable.....

Cadas

27th May 2020, 06:43 PM

Metal bashing during the evening this week. Messy workshop stopped play at the weekend, that point when you can’t find anything and can’t move for tripping over stuff. Got all the air lines and cables up on cable tray.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200527/0f0a0c76f981f5be69181901972a99e5.jpg
Decided to fix this (that’s a scrap rad as a jig before anyone worries [emoji23][emoji23])

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200527/ef3c868785337fa502b82b8f748c154d.jpg
Patchwork is the way to go.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200527/9caf8250fe9f74f5a10de52884a69a18.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200527/ba55f3ef094baf8db7acb826e068041f.jpg
Et voila......

Pretty..... non. But it should do the job.

Finally got the rocker set back from machine shop, not sure what went on but don’t think they were convinced all the tappets were from a 2.25 landrover. Had to take the spare head in and mess with a box of spare tappets until they were happy.

My next challenge is to learn to tig weld.... next big job is body repair’s so invested in a tig and just worked out that it’s going to take a lot of practice.

bemm52

28th May 2020, 04:53 PM

If by tappets you mean the rocker arms they are a bit confusing. When I stripped my head I didn’t much think about numbering the rockers and just bagged them, putting them back in the correct order took quiet a few attempts and head scratching or they don’t sit on valves correctly from memory there is a diagram in the manual.
I can imagine someone not familiar with land rovers thinking something was wrong or missing

Cheers Paul

Cadas

28th May 2020, 07:52 PM

Ha! Yes I think that was the issue. When I took the rockers off, I’ve always kept them threaded on a length of wire to keep order.

I know the engine was running fine as I adjusted the valves many times. But it kept them happy.

Cadas

31st May 2020, 03:10 PM

Decided I’d burnt enough of the workbench practicing, time to get brave and tackle something on Sid.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/bc2fe2c353d0c051d80b751a87603d73.jpg

Dash panel with too many holes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/c642c2e74c9e8a296ea9eea9c4a75aed.jpg
Cut blanks to fill the big holes

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/1ff4d1f1e354baf9d28c5e9fb404f8c0.jpg
Step one, bit of distortion but nothing too bad

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/d1622f248fa29bbe5579ea3d5bbe6316.jpg
Rough clean ready for next step

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/a4b78d6a91ac0f1960efa8433bbe40a1.jpg
And with the new holes cut.

Tig is good fun, I have a lot more practice to do, but then Sid has a lot of holes to fill.

Cadas

6th June 2020, 06:51 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200606/3cc3db75b5416be1af2dc99c0f31bd0d.jpg
This represents the high point of this weeks work on Sid....at least I am now comfortable while p***d off.

Sid was finally back on his wheels, I got the bits from the UK to rebuild the hubs having found all the new gun seals were leaking. I also decided to replace the brake snails as I was having problems adjusting brakes.

Oddly, the old adjusters on Sid had the springs inside the plate so that the shoes would not sit properly. Some spare back plates had the springs outside and fitting them this way made the shoes sit right with the springs in the right place.

But after all this I found that the brake adjusting issue was actually caused by the pins in the shoes falling out. None of them are tight and on half the shoes they have fallen out.

Given the sensitivity of some I won’t say what colour box they came in but you can probably guess.

So I’m back to where I was three months ago.

whitehillbilly64

7th June 2020, 09:36 PM

Repco has brake shoes. My gun seals leaked, but didn't use sealant.
Bought permatex red, high temp. Which I mentioned earlier in this post.
Am going to have another go.
Some overseas LR forums, talk about loose pin problems.
But no Blue Box issues, of which many have been happy with.

whitehillbilly.

Cadas

9th June 2020, 08:48 PM

New protex shoes on order, found somewhere offering a good deal at $70 an axle so bit more comfort.

I did some more investigation and research and I am far from happy. The loose pin issue is well known and comes up a lot. A pin falling out means no effective brakes on that drum.

But worse was the note I saw on the British auto parts website. Under the series brake shoes they actually have a warning noting that 1 in 10 sets of aftermarket brake shoes they sell fail.... and they recommend the mintex brand instead.

Think on that.... 10% of the critical life or death components by that manufacturer, in their experience, fail.

To be fair, they don’t mention the brand.

gromit

10th June 2020, 06:44 AM

I did some more investigation and research and I am far from happy. The loose pin issue is well known and comes up a lot. A pin falling out means no effective brakes on that drum.

If the pin fell out (and didn't jam somewhere) it would mean you'd have to pump the pedal a couple of times to get brakes. Far from ideal but you'd still have brakes. I'd be more worried about a pin floating around loose in the drum.

I check the pins when re-assembling and my shoes don't come out of a blue box typically.
I can get re-lined shoes locally but with the move away from drums to discs they sometime don't have swapover shoes in stock so mine have to be sent to WA for re-lining.
They are meant to be 'trade only' and I haven't used them for a couple of years but costs were reasonable.

Colin

Cadas

20th June 2020, 08:36 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/a14b7683bda831f61a852a5d2ca18cb0.jpg
Stripping down the spares car as #1 son has bought a car and I’m fed up being blocked in.

There’s not much left worth keeping but some bits of anyone is interested. There’s a hand throttle, decent steering box, pedal boxes. Front axle, diff seem ok, but swivels are rusty on exposed parts. Front springs are salvageable.

Ongoing work on brakes, thought I’d compare protec units to blue ones
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/be8a60966dac878409b7eb567e578d53.jpg
Big difference is the welding, continuous on protec, spot welds on cheap ones. Cheap shoes are thicker, but protec is tapered.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/f411b38b0ed60fd7660aebc70a92cedb.jpg
Big difference as well are pins. Welded in the protec, but in the cheap ones...... not so much.

bemm52

20th June 2020, 09:15 PM

The bean can brake fluid reservoir has some value[thumbsupbig]

Cheers Paul

Cadas

20th June 2020, 09:30 PM

It might clean up, doesn’t leak, so maybe.

Cadas

28th June 2020, 06:29 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/97486d06ff006d2674c3b8ea55b254be.jpg
First sunny weekend for weeks so time to clear the drive.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/ea3b35a748c72721dfdd03ddcc6ddf6a.jpg
One chassis.... kit form.

Engine and gearbox are good, had a look in both, no water, plenty of oil and all turning nicely so they will be kept.

Mind you, question is where to store them long term. The blatantly obvious place (spare bedroom) was rather hastily ( in my view) rejected by others.

The axles and diffs are good, I’ll stick them on gumtree and see, if not, more items for the shed.

Lots of goodies of the scrap car, one that has me scratching my head is this
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/88d3bf6a2cc2d56433e819ed214b4312.jpg
Part of the hand throttle, assume it’s a cut off, the levers activate a switch in the black box. All works, just not sure what it’s for, especially as it sits about 3” below the ignition key .....

JDNSW

28th June 2020, 08:56 PM

No. It is the choke knob and cable setup with the choke light switch.

Cadas

28th June 2020, 09:59 PM

Ah, makes more sense.

I needed one of those, there wasn’t one on Sid.

It’s quite a contraption to turn a little light on.

bemm52

29th June 2020, 06:25 PM

The “little light” is the orange one on your dash panel

Cheers Paul

Cadas

29th June 2020, 06:36 PM

Thanks

I think this is brilliant, made my day.

It’s got about 7 moving parts for the sole purpose of switching a light on.

I can’t help but imagine this is the output of a 1960’s british Union controlled design department

“.....a simple switch you say.... I don’t think so....”

Or a bloke sat there on a Tuesday thinking, I reckon I can stretch this job out until Friday and old Fred can take on that brake adjuster design without me...”

I love stuff like this!

JDNSW

29th June 2020, 08:46 PM

bemm52

30th June 2020, 09:08 AM

I think you are a bit off - I think it is a 1940s design, just possibly 1950s, and it is quite likely something that they (or a supplier) did for the military during WW2 and carried on with seeing they had a lot in stock.

John was there enough left over stock for the entire 2/2a production runs, the orange lamp seems to be in all of them or did the switching mechanism change

Cheers Paul

JDNSW

30th June 2020, 01:31 PM

The choke knob/cable and switch changed to a far flimsier and less reliable setup with the change to negative earth in 1967. So it wasn't the whole run of 2/2a. The parts book picture for up to there looks identical to yours.

Once started using the older choke control, the general philosophy of Rover at the time would have been to keep it the same unless there was good reason for changing it - saved on the costs of parts storage and changing the workshop and parts manuals.

Cadas

7th August 2020, 03:44 PM

Work has prevented anything getting done on Sid for weeks now, but it has not stopped the parts coming

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200807/c86d165076a944d9ba77e83e31818aad.jpg
Today’s little surprise, brand new carb body for the Solex. New old stock item.....perfect!

Exhaust is finally on its way, tried in vain to have one made locally, and did get all the pipe sections ready to weld up one myself, problem is local exhaust shops could not replicate the 3 hole flange fitting and flare into the manifold. Cost of doing so the same as buying an exhaust from the UK.

In the end, complete system from bearmach for $340 delivered. Two thirds of that was postage.

Wiring loom on order.

Just need some time now.

Cadas

23rd August 2020, 06:01 PM

Finally, some time spent in the garage, first time in months.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200823/0b886866fd1bde31151e5e497c960fe3.jpg
Fully rebuilt Solex.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200823/51d47d6ea78017ec34f4418200940d68.jpg
Had to make up a new vacuum tube, found some brass tube at the local model shop and recovered all the fittings from old distributor. Nice.

Then exhaust.. don’t know why I’m surprised, but found out the fitting kit sent with the LWB exhaust is for a SWB. So, fab time.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200823/974af10487cbd3ca711bc75e50fd6c37.jpg

Making exhaust clamps in the press.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200823/5ac21529e82c1dc4ef6efc533d6a0415.jpg
Looks the part. Had to cut and weld the drop bracket, but finally got it al to fit.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200823/bce311efa182293dcb3f0715dd3bd9ec.jpg
It took a bit of persuading, and a bit of jumping up and down on it to make the bends go where landrover intended, but it’s sort of where it should be.

Thinking I might need to trim the end as it sticks out a bit past the wheel

whitehillbilly64

23rd August 2020, 07:04 PM

Don't trim it till the tub is on.
May not stick out as much.
If to short fumes may get sucked in with a soft top open.

whitehillbilly

Cadas

30th August 2020, 06:24 PM

Satisfying job today.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/1ef2e12981cf60fe6d1868b735bbd477.jpg
Choke light switch contraption.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/b730aab39eaf473b5c4b58551e57bfc6.jpg
Got lucky, the switch was missing the actual choke knob, but in the bag of bits from Sid there was a choke cable assembly but the switch had long gone.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/a7de72bd4615065f16fa9d7acebccb8a.jpg
The business end

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/a65a1a536b9c19ae5f535f243688cb7f.jpg
Nice!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/35e404287cf1cef05b7c166579b05c41.jpg
And all done and back together. Works perfectly.

I still love this bit of over engineering. Worked out that there are 30 parts to this switch. [emoji1]

Cadas

6th September 2020, 05:22 PM

Sunny day and the chance finally to get Sid out of the garage so 3 months of junk can be emptied.

Prep jobs included fitting a new washer on the carb, installing the long awaited bell crank spring to the throttle link (amazing difference to how that feels.

Even had time to fit a new engine to the workbench.....gearbox is under the other workbench. They are for the next project.

164484

but then it was time... I've rebuilt the carb completely, and the same for the dizzy (down to the springs) so everything's new and it all works a dream, he fires first click each time.

But I've also rebuilt the gearbox and hydraulics down the last washer, and that's requires more courage to test. First up, I had Sid on four axle stands and could fire him up and test the gearbox. There was a moment of panic realizing I had forgotten something critical..... reading the manual as I've never used a Series box before and there's lots of sticks.... It all worked on the stands so.

Sid’s first journey - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK3vE2MO8mE&feature=share)

The furious pumping of the brake was probably unnecessary, but what you can't see in the video is that about a meter in front of where Sid finishes is a 3m near vertical drop over a retaining wall.

Still all done, and later on, reverse was tested in putting him away.

Huge relief......

whitehillbilly64

6th September 2020, 06:22 PM

Dont run ot to long with out water.
Love the fuel tank. Beats the 2l coke bottle I have used on various rebuilds. [thumbsupbig]

whitehillbilly

JDNSW

6th September 2020, 08:18 PM

The petrol tank, is OK, but I like the battery hold down!

Cadas

7th September 2020, 10:09 AM

Dont run ot to long with out water.
Love the fuel tank. Beats the 2l coke bottle I have used on various rebuilds. [thumbsupbig]

whitehillbilly

It’s only the 5litre can and the lack of a radiator that stopped me heading off the beach.....

Cooling system is next as I can’t even tune Sid or adjust the carb.

Cadas

18th September 2020, 09:14 AM

Little project.... but I like these

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200917/23d83a56346a6d007474933212aec126.jpg
One dead starter button, totally seized and about half an inch of silicone spooned over the back of it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200917/fd989c9ead0ceffe7172a05896df705b.jpg
Not pretty, comes apart with some gentle prising back of the bent over lip, but someone’s has a right go at this before.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200917/b8bcb2f04c7509d2796dcdc666fbbe06.jpg
Rebuilt the smashed edges using chemical metal and then coat of satin black.

The inside just needed a clean and wire wool. The button shaft was where it was seized, but placing the shaft in a drill chuck and plenty of scotch brite and it’s good as new.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200917/73cf8e39932a77d19f6f7b1f75c5de28.jpg
Ready to fit.

Cadas

18th September 2020, 06:02 PM

It’s only the 5litre can and the lack of a radiator that stopped me heading off the beach.....

Cooling system is next as I can’t even tune Sid or adjust the carb.

Ttt

Cadas

18th September 2020, 06:05 PM

I RCL p ltp

Cadas

18th September 2020, 06:06 PM

I rt

Cadas

18th September 2020, 06:19 PM

I RCL p ltp

A

Cadas

18th September 2020, 06:22 PM

Note to self........ take phone out of pocket before putting spray suit on and masking up........

bemm52

18th September 2020, 09:19 PM

Note to self........ take phone out of pocket before putting spray suit on and masking up........
😂😂😂😂 that’s classic I thought it was young person abbreviation speak

Cheers Paul

Cadas

25th September 2020, 04:30 PM

Few days off work and I’ve locked myself in the garage. Not getting much done, but that’s not the point!

Not strictly true because Sid now has twiddly bits!!!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200925/33a6a6fc756dadd90a5088df3932c00a.jpg

And he also has his face on

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200925/b8e9fb6a17930e28af1472121c5ad5cd.jpg

Even a shroud

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200925/54c14322a300cfa7989804b5dd4e01d6.jpg

Other bits you can’t see include the fully working hand throttle and vacuum tube for dizzy and even the vent flaps.

But running he is not.

Does anyone know what size the core plug is at the back (top) corner of the block? I think it’s the heater take off. The manual says 3/8, but the hole is much bigger, more like 5/8 so the brand spanking new plug i have don’t fit.

It’s an 8:1 head which may be different, the other head I’ve got has a smaller plug

Cadas

26th September 2020, 01:05 PM

3/8 BSP..... and you can buy them at super cheap auto.

Different to the manual which says BSF and the old head I’ve got.

bemm52

1st October 2020, 03:07 PM

3/8 BSP..... and you can buy them at super cheap auto.

Different to the manual which says BSF and the old head I’ve got.

Just out of interest how did you workout the plug size without taking in the whole head.....

Cheers Paul

Cadas

1st October 2020, 03:14 PM

Micrometer across opening gave me 15.5mm, which gave me a couple of options on an imperial thread chart

Then.

Kids plasticine modelling clay on a lollipop stick to take impression of the threads [emoji1]

And then a thread gauge.

Only works on big threads though....

Cadas

27th October 2020, 11:34 AM

Work is interfering with Sid time again so progress slow.

I’ve been learning to metal bash aluminium which is great fun. Shrinking ally using heat and compressed air is a bit like magic, you heat it, it expands, you blast with air and you see it move before your eyes.

One wing is nearly done, I’ll post some pics later.

In between work, managed to finish the gauges.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201027/4700d064a651e9681802b28eea47746a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201027/f3923edda0dad7bb195f1210253f3340.jpg
They had seen better days.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201027/713b846490bbf304546428ac3c0d1486.jpg
All got the same treatment, sand blasted, new studs welded on and painted. I got new seals from eBay ( painfully expensive) but they were correct and fitted perfectly.

And voila!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201027/1fe1013e74337ba3ca95e40cdd4c342e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201027/0d15ad96048dc9bf4f0023daa6d9b19f.jpg
Refurbished switch as well. I have few more bits to fit, the spare Landy had the original accessory sockets and a full set of lights and I think an original switch for top right, just need to tidy them all up.

Cadas

8th November 2020, 05:04 PM

Other end of Sid this weekend. Finally found somewhere to media blast the body panels, they have most of the front end in their workshop so I get to play with the back end.

Also took Sid for a chug up and down the drive.

So, tailgate... it’s the only one I have and it’s seen better days.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/639e49fb29ba07e6d1260a771fe26011.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/8d77f63d55f07ceae2ea0f504b5e59aa.jpg
I still think Sid was a breakdown truck at some point and tires going in and out the back caused some damage.

That and the bloke who had an unhealthy relationship with a rivet gun.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/54f051e435a17c5d0ccec69618715204.jpg

The rest of this is not for those of a nervous disposition

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/71857d4689f69bf54197a952e0b52c3c.jpg
Capping came off easily enough, rather battered.

The top and bottom section are held on with a mixture of rivets and spot welds.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/647aaa6d4de6d9b5665444e277bee46e.jpg

The bottom rail is toast, as it’s only a couple of folds I’ll make up a new one.

The main panel is only a simple
Box, I’m trying to decide whether to make a new box, or try bashing out the old one, it is Swiss cheese but am getting very good at tig welding holes ( rivet guy!) Replacing it means taking the ends off and the braces so about the same amount of work. I think I’ll send it all for media blast and decide after. Some of the tears in the ally look like they will be tricky to weld.

The rest of the day was spent straightening bits. Top rail and capping came up a treat, although the capping takes some bashing, panel beating with a 3lb lump hammer.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/567c864a8d91f33727136c9a5df5f99f.jpg

Rubbing strips also done, these and all the trim bits will be getting hot dipped Galv

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/9159ebe41121cfe1360f3b8f05a1b60f.jpg

Cadas

17th November 2020, 08:31 AM

More tailgate work, have to get a shift on now as I’m picking up body panels from the blaster soon.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/068b4510ecbccfe8e4b9cec313d261cc.jpg
Fabricated a new bottom rail
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/cfa536d54d5573a90574d975d0213b23.jpg

The old one was beyond repair, I’ve m base the new one up in 1.6mm to give it a bit more strength

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/7e6a7ebfbed5b6b05f55eb207bd579e8.jpg
Fits nicely, shame about the state of the main panel

[emoji848]

Cadas

18th November 2020, 04:11 PM

First set of panels back, https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/c4100d7beeff6fb555301f23ddfac762.jpg
Definitely worth doing, I can now see every defect which I couldn’t before. Finish is ok, they used a very light garnet so the panels are quite smooth.

Took the next lot in but with today’s news in south Australia I’ve no idea when I’ll get then back.

Prezzies came in the post today as well.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/34cb36c8597e5b41b8d16fdc16ecbd56.jpg
New loom from Bruce Sharma, looks to be a nice bit of work, and colour matched to Sid!!!!

Cadas

20th November 2020, 07:11 PM

I think I spent longer getting stuff ready to do in lock down than it actually lasted. Better that than the other though.

Tail gate saga continues. After deciding the tailgate looked rather shabby against my shiny new repair panel there was only one way to go.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/b268b7ca20577f0e1c6246f873834025.jpg
Part way through forming the main panel.

Again I’ve done it out of 1.6mm (because that’s all I’ve got) so it will be rather stronger than the original, but jeez.... those folds raised a sweat.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/fb3fe3616b2882d55e5f355f1262eeac.jpg
Mocked up with all the frame pieces. Since this photo I’ve cleaned the rails up and straightened them, I’m now going around TIG welding the bits of damage, most of which fortunately is hidden and was stress cracking in the corners.

Should get this nearly done this weekend, next tricky job is transferring the reinforcement that supports the hinge bolts.

And working out which holes are rivets and which are spot welds.

Cadas

22nd November 2020, 05:41 PM

Tailgate progress

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/9ea2e236867ef5b2b4cf229296cf3be0.jpg
Reinforcement fitted. I had to pack these out with spacers. The reason being that the hinges on the new rear chassis member I welded in some months back must be slightly wider apart than the original ones, this has meant that the hinges on the tailgate needed to be spaced 10mm further apart.

That’s about as far as I have got, I’ve been working out how to spot weld the panels back together. Not easy in aluminium. I think I’ve found a technique.

So I moved onto something else.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/770636c3a3d952fbcde86ed72c1404e7.jpg
Loom going in. It fits really well, this is very well made and looks brilliant in the matching colour scheme.

It pays to lay the whole thing out on the floor and work through the diagrams and notes before starting to put in it, there are a lot of separate looms and bits and pieces.

One thing I have realised, and not sure if this is correct. This loom is as per the original, which appears to leave the starter motor circuit through the starter button permanently live.

Not that it can be started without a key, but seems unusual

JDNSW

22nd November 2020, 06:39 PM

Not particularly unusual. This was the normal setup for vehicles not using a starter relay, as there is no way the ignition switch can handle the start current. Series Landrovers did not use a stater relay until 1967 (except diesels).

bemm52

22nd November 2020, 08:13 PM

I find the permanently live starter button a real boon my cars have stromberg carburettors and seem to lose prime after sitting for four or five days.
Cranking the starter without ignition allows the carbie to prime up then turn the key press the button and bang your all fired up

Cheers Paul

Cadas

25th November 2020, 08:14 PM

Flamin’ tailgate....

It’s coming together, slowly..progress so far
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/96e128d756f69542cfb7721730724465.jpg
I’d decided to reuse the top and side rails as I could straighten them and it would leave some character in the piece. It really would be a lot easier to make new.

Spot welding ally to birmabrite is a sodding nightmare. I took advice from the guy I bought my welder from and his recommendation works the best so far.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/d925288c358578f7a1f64bde07eedf8e.jpg
Step one, loads of power, no up or downslope just blast a puddle. You have to clamp it really tight as well, I used a spot weld clamp which also heat sinks the top layer.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/b5b5085b51e465003981acf5c2de7775.jpg
Then clean it up
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/9afaebf629123a68716e940303fb062c.jpg
Then go back in at lower amps and normal settings to fill the holes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/8b680dcc28d08245368b9b6b7e8ddc07.jpg
Never going to be 100% and have to stay away from the edges, will need a bit of filler but that’s ok. The bit nearest the camera will be covered by the capping.

Cadas

28th November 2020, 09:32 PM

New spot weld technique

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201128/29823064ad22a47420299bab4cef0f05.jpg
Weld and fill in one hit.

Not much different to before, it is torch position and the tungsten shape that made all the difference.

bemm52

29th November 2020, 09:00 AM

That looks neat and strong

Cheers Paul

Cadas

29th November 2020, 09:16 AM

Cheers, getting there. This has been the real fun of restoring Sid. I’ve seen determined to use it to learn all the skills.

I never had a reason to learn to tig weld before, now I can and it’s a brilliant tool for some situations.

Cadas

30th November 2020, 06:25 PM

Nearly done

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201130/c2318317b9cb2ef927864121d15eaa73.jpg
All the spot welding done now and has a bit of spare time today to make the braces.

Centre brace rib is maybe 2-3 mm wider than the original but that’s as narrow as my brake will go.

Corner braces need some fettling.

Just waiting on the solid rivets now, dhl advised today they’ve made it from the UK to Adelaide in 2 days, now they’ll be sent to Melbourne for processing and back to Adelaide. Should have them in a week or so.

Lovely.....

Cadas

3rd December 2020, 05:11 PM

putting the dash together and thought probably time to install the speedo cable, but the one I have does not have the round retaining plate.... and the old one is not going to go over the ends on the new one.... has anyone else had this problem?

Rivets arrived.... few test ones fitted.... my new favorite job, they are brilliant!!

Cadas

3rd December 2020, 08:04 PM

no my new favourite job is using an air riveter..... if you have stuff to rivet... buy one, and if you haven't, buy one and drill some holes...

they are ace!!

Cadas

5th December 2020, 07:12 PM

Tailgate is about done
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201205/4d182b44eba5f7fb0f25d556cdfea0bb.jpgSeems to fit ok. I still have the edges 5mm over sized, because watching all the car programs on Foxtel they bang on about panel gaps!

[emoji15]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201205/e3e91442d9da1b5928e6b3050e626838.jpg
It’s been a challenge but has worked out ok. Given the alternative was buy a new one ($1250 from bearmach!) I’m happy.

It would have been a lot easier if I had not tried to reuse the rails, if I was making another I’d make it all new and it would be done in a weekend.

(I know, top rail on backwards)

Cadas

6th December 2020, 06:19 PM

Does anyone know where I might be able to get hold of a cover for an original (2 fuse) fuse box.

The fuse holder and connector s are in perfect Nick and work with the harness, but I need the lid.

1950landy

6th December 2020, 10:12 PM

Does anyone know where I might be able to get hold of a cover for an original (2 fuse) fuse box.

The fuse holder and connector s are in perfect Nick and work with the harness, but I need the lid.
PM sent.

russellrovers

7th December 2020, 07:19 AM

Tailgate is about done
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201205/4d182b44eba5f7fb0f25d556cdfea0bb.jpgSeems to fit ok. I still have the edges 5mm over sized, because watching all the car programs on Foxtel they bang on about panel gaps!hi i have one good tailgate left no damagedamage damage

[emoji15]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201205/e3e91442d9da1b5928e6b3050e626838.jpg
It’s been a challenge but has worked out ok. Given the alternative was buy a new one ($1250 from bearmach!) I’m happy.

It would have been a lot easier if I had not tried to reuse the rails, if I was making another I’d make it all new and it would be done in a weekend.

(I know, top rail on backwards)hi i have a tailgate left one only half price can post jim

Cadas

7th December 2020, 10:35 AM

Cheers, think this one I’ve made is good enough for now.

Cadas

8th December 2020, 07:53 PM

Wiring loom is in and working

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201208/7fec1afe4d55989e8d3e4e812bde5109.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201208/4d61fc85adf49ec13869aa5a97552771.jpg
Everything works, even the fuel gauge!

The loom was excellent, a few minor tweaks where parts may have been changed in the past but we’re only talking about changing a connector or two.

I’ve got to go around now and clip everything in, the only part that still has me head scratching is the engine section. It comes from the drivers side, goes past the oil filter and then has to go around to the alternator and thermostat switch. But I can’t work out the route it’s meant to take past the radiator.

Suggestions would be good if anyone knows.

The wiring was straightforward, but you do have to work methodically through the wiring diagram. I was cursing the lack of labels on the loom but in hindsight, having to learn and identify each wire and circuit will be invaluable.

The only drama (s) were my making. A bad earth (forgot to connect it) had the choke wire glowing [emoji1787] and for some reason I had it in my head that the light switch was off in the middle.

Body work next, picked the rest of the front end up today from the blaster.

JDNSW

9th December 2020, 06:39 AM

I'll have a look later, but I think it goes under the thermostat housing behind the water pump. I'll edit this if not.

Edit: I was right. The loom is secured by a tag that is under the second bolt from the top LH bolt on the waterpump. (At least that is what mine does!)

Cadas

9th December 2020, 06:30 PM

Cadas

24th December 2020, 08:19 PM

Plenty of progress, wiring is complete, everything works and he drives again. Had to order new oil sender as the old one snapped off but all good.

Had a challenge with dash bulbs, bought some led versions but they don’t work, when the ignition goes on, they flash and go out. Back to traditional bulbs and all good. Don’t know if it’s the bulbs or the voltage drop. Had anyone else tried these.

The rest of the time has been spent metal bashing.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201224/a7fd2593e09fee5ba5c3caa1717f17df.jpg

Getting very comfortable welding the old panels, lots of you tube and practice and can now deal with repairs to the thin sheet.

As to panel beating ally, that’s satisfying. I upgraded my hammers from the cheap set to a couple of mid range ones from metalman tools and they make a big difference, larger polished heads do less damage and you have more control and feel. The other tool that is brilliant was a you tube find, and that is a bag of lead shot in a leather pouch. I used some old scuba weights I had and wrapped these in leather. They are firm enough to dress the metal quite hard and there is enough give to absorb the blows. These were game changers.

Metal shrinking ally is still voodoo though... scary but it works!!

1950landy

24th December 2020, 10:15 PM

I am using LED bulbs in my S1 80" dash with out any problems.

bemm52

25th December 2020, 09:43 AM

When I bought led dash bulbs there was a choice between + & - earth I bought what I needed but don’t know the consequences of wrong polarity

Cheers Paul

Cadas

26th December 2020, 12:38 PM

Thank you... polarity should have been obvious.

LEDs are diodes and only work one way.

The ones I bought require a -ve feed to the body and +ve to the end, but being originally a +ve earth car, I’d reused the old connectors in the original setup, so they were live to the body of the fuse holder.

Quick switcheroo and it’s all sorted.

Not sure why they flashed briefly, but be something funny in the ignition switch maybe.

Thank you!!

JDNSW

27th December 2020, 08:07 AM

.....

Not sure why they flashed briefly, but be something funny in the ignition switch maybe.

Thank you!!

Probably a brief AC pulse from current starting to flow through the coil or some other inductance when switched on; the negative cycle of this giving a voltage the right polarity to work them. It doesn't take much to give some light from a LED.

Cadas

28th December 2020, 06:02 PM

More bodywork

Fabricated some new inner mud shields
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201228/16ac0c558a4ca88fecad5ff6276f3110.jpg
Made from heavy gauge aluminium as that’s what I’ve got lying around.

Then on to welding. Front apron has been cut presumably for a winch or bull bar. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201228/2eb6a03b15dd443cb4d60e66adfc80d8.jpg
Both sides as so

Not pretty
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201228/4a4faa5c0def772c1c6967be3e3b79df.jpg

But about does the job.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201228/9cfc8a71380559d5a6cf8fdbfe75a21a.jpg

Cadas

29th December 2020, 07:24 PM

Getting braver

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/36111b27d3ac74e834ad91f65af43e6e.jpg

The ends had corroded out around the bolt holes and it was all getting a bit thin, so patched in a new section

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/8a56812291afc71db27022b9e0b33381.jpg
The trick I’m learning with tig welding thin aluminium is the same as riding a bike. (Or learning to ski or driving a race car for the first time) which is that you can’t be timid if you want it to work.

I struggled for ages with burning holes and lowering the power and burning holes, etc. low power simply took longer to get to the puddle, but that extra time heated everything else up.

By cranking up the power, I get a quicker puddle and you’re off and running.

The first time I skied sober I remember the point of going from fear to enjoyment of speed. With tig, that point where you are confident in controlling the puddle, you seem to have more time to control everything.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/5adaf834b434028234da2f670d8ca7b7.jpg
Nothing’s bolted together yet, but I reckon that’s about as straight as it’s ever been in its life. Not bad for something that was a kids climbing frame for 20+ years.

Cadas

29th December 2020, 07:25 PM

Does anyone know where I can get the wing fixing bolts that go into the firewall ASAP?

I ordered the captive nuts and forgot the bolts and I plan to have these painted in the next week or so.

Cadas

31st December 2020, 08:32 PM

Finally took on the big welding challenge.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201231/f6b87cd01ea2b4b9c169b804474c4e19.jpg
There’s a lot to replace. This was a long job.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201231/bd1685321eb1b67bdf91353d6a69a31e.jpg
New panel made, think this is the most care I’ve ever taken on patching, but I’m finding that tig welding is unforgiving.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201231/40cd7c60c54b60caebedf59e54f17573.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201231/6381dc4fda8b6a29d60e350b84ee3020.jpg

Took it very slow, lots of tacks, loads of cleaning and plenty of acetone.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201231/479680310ad70bac93f8822fd524aa6d.jpg
All done. I’ll grind it back tomorrow and my guess is I’ll have a couple of cracks to deal with. Not quite enough experience to get every weld perfect. Pleased though, no distortion to speak of.

Other fun today, I bought a new distributor as the old one I had refurbished had too much play in the shaft. I’ll post details of the retailer later but fantastic service, ordered yesterday morning, arrived from Melbourne today.

Sid runs much better now.

Cadas

2nd January 2021, 12:29 PM

Big stuff is done.

The Penny finally dropped on the welding. I found (yet another) you tube video that contained the missing bits of info that the other 100+ don’t mention.

All vids say the same, heat, create puddle, start to move torch and then add filler. Problem is that on thin stuff I wasn’t getting penetration and while the weld looked perfect, the backside still has a visible joint which causes cracking.

This magic video added a step, when the puddle forms, wait until you see the puddle drop. Hard to describe but the puddle goes from convex to concave and then you go for it with filler. It’s almost imperceptible, but after a few go’s you get a sense of when it happens.

What’s happening is that the aluminium melts all the way through and is held in place by surface tension, the drop is the puddle bulging underneath. Half a second to long and you have a hole... it’s a fine balance.

Despite the celebratory cuppa, the fun did not end. The new panel was 10mm too wide at the top

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210102/626e2ccc7ca547a1637b5c78b5439545.jpg
Decided to dress the edge and roll the bend line using hammer/ dolly rather than cut and weld.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210102/e14374a2af3a46529736f18bd7420ef0.jpg

And done

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210102/18223d18921c118aea1468f9bf90adb8.jpg
Ready for epoxy and filling.

These wings were probably beyond saving in reality, but I’m pleased with the outcome. I did have sids original wings, these came off the scrap landy and they have these which Sid did not have. I’m assuming these were factory indicators?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210102/1085175da8e243a56a09ddf07cfb98d2.jpg

Today’s other jobs are fitting the fuel tank and sorting leaks in the carb. It’s weeping from the top gasket and banjo washer. Guessing some truing up is needed.

67hardtop

2nd January 2021, 12:59 PM

Factory park lights. Indicators were added later. Had to be drilled etc. New front panels came with the park light hole only as well. Good job there. Cheers

Cadas

3rd January 2021, 01:29 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210103/c34d6b2190003ee0156c0a30c7f3196c.jpg
Epoxy done.... let the mess begin!

Cadas

4th January 2021, 09:10 PM

frustrating day, I've had the engine in a few bits... out of an abundence of caution and to confirm I make a cock up some while back. I realised the distributor is 180 degrees out. After stripping the front of the engine down and going through the timing set up again, I got everything else right, but looks as though I have put the helical gear in the wrong way around. I going through pics I can see that I put the dizzy drive gear in place but didn't clock the slot is off centre.... I did ponder fixing it, but recalled what a pain it was to fit on the engine stand so doing it in situ did not appeal... the distributor can stay as is.

carb is fixed temporarily.... the metric thread that was bodged to whitworth is now a nice secure BSP thread.... New lid on order from the UK but no leaks in the interim.

Question for those that have done more of these... rear brakes.

Whenever I see a photo of a rear brake shoe install, I can;t help but notice that they all have the brake cylinder at 12 o'clock. On mine, the cylinder is at 11'ish. I have a selection of back plates, all the same, and all give the same outcome. The cause appears to be the bolt holes in the axle, on mine, the bolt holes are aligned such that the top bolts are at 11 and 1, symetrical yet on all the pictures I see of axles, they seem to be rotated, more sort of 12 and 2.

The axle is bang upright... and it's the one that came off Sid originally. My assumption is that the off-vertical cylinder makes no difference, I am just curious.

Yes, they are on the correct sides... I have measured.

gromit

4th January 2021, 10:14 PM

Whenever I see a photo of a rear brake shoe install, I can;t help but notice that they all have the brake cylinder at 12 o'clock. On mine, the cylinder is at 11'ish. I have a selection of back plates, all the same, and all give the same outcome. The cause appears to be the bolt holes in the axle, on mine, the bolt holes are aligned such that the top bolts are at 11 and 1, symetrical yet on all the pictures I see of axles, they seem to be rotated, more sort of 12 and 2.

The axle is bang upright... and it's the one that came off Sid originally. My assumption is that the off-vertical cylinder makes no difference, I am just curious.

Yes, they are on the correct sides... I have measured.

I'd have to look at a few picture of the ones I've worked on but I'm sure the slave cylinder is at 12 o'clock.
Land Rover FAQ - 109 rear brakes (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm)

The only difference will be the brake pipe layout if the cylinder isn't at 12 o'clock.

How does 'measuring' confirm they are on the correct sides ? Are the part numbers still readable on the backplates ? 531888 is LH and 531889 is RH.

Colin

Cadas

5th January 2021, 03:21 PM

I'd have to look at a few picture of the ones I've worked on but I'm sure the slave cylinder is at 12 o'clock.
Land Rover FAQ - 109 rear brakes (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm)

The only difference will be the brake pipe layout if the cylinder isn't at 12 o'clock.

How does 'measuring' confirm they are on the correct sides ? Are the part numbers still readable on the backplates ? 531888 is LH and 531889 is RH.

Colin

The adjusters are not symetrical to the slave cylinder, there is a difference that can be measured to identify the leading and trailing adjuster. I think the 'issue' is in the axle... the plates I have are all the same. I did find a photo of another axle with the holes in the same place that was off a LWB Series 1.

167389

Pic of S1 back plates have the cylinder hole symetrical... sooooo.... I am wondering if I have an earlier axle. It is a LWB one, with all the reinforcement... it might also explain why the bearings in the diff were all special order items at 5x the price.. no idea.

anyhow... not changing it now.

Sid is back in one piece and purring... although the over caution in taking the front off was maybe overkill, going through every step of the process highlighted a problem with #2 cylinder exhaust valve adjuster... a quick compression test showed zero on #2, new adjuster from the parts box and all fixed..

I thought he ran well before and it was only 3 cylinders and a dodgy distributer... now he purrs and you can hardly hear him.

Cadas

6th January 2021, 06:15 PM

FINALLY..... I have bled the brakes and have a full set of working brakes.

I gave in an bought a pressure bleeder in the sales and it still took three attempts but it’s finally done.

With that success, I have embarked on the body panels.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210106/18c88ba95e59e74e1e510f6475d3b3f1.jpg
Filler over epoxy.

I bought the filler from the paint supplier and it’s my first time using ‘professional’ bondo and it’s a bit of a revelation. Different texture, more like smooth peanut butter, it’s ruthless, you have about 5 minutes to mix and get it on, then about enough time to clean the tools up before sanding begins.

It’s like sanding talc for the first 10 minutes, so you go like the clappers rough shaping and then as it firms up a bit more, you go finer and sand proper. Very fast process, each panel I’ve done has had rough fill, sand, fine skim, sand and then go over any spots, but only an hour a panel.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210106/40ef01ee92492bfeb945e8c9cdb63a7f.jpg

Leaving the finished panels in the sun hardens then off and ready for another coat of epoxy and then filler primer.

It’s messy and the dust gets everywhere

Cadas

7th January 2021, 06:26 PM

Now this was a job I was putting off as I thought it with be a pain,

But it’s was a strangely satisfying half an hour

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210107/78419a0613a2b50a950876763c34dbe6.jpg

Someone suggested chiseling the rivets instead of drilling and that was much more therapeutic

Cadas

9th January 2021, 08:24 PM

When I set out to paint Sid, the plan was to do a decent job, but recognising he’s still truck (an old truck)

I realised tonight I’ve lost the plot
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210109/b5410e1fd5fc15acc92303c1dc858412.jpg

I was using Blade putty under a horizontal lamp!

I’ve stopped now.

Cadas

12th January 2021, 11:33 AM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210112/0696315ecc8af9ec38a81caa350297dc.jpg
Wooooo

Finally, this caused some headaches this week, had everything prepped and started to spray colour at the weekend and the gun failed mid spray and I didn’t have a backup. So this is round 2

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210112/c29b3f1c038928f7db46626e520ce89a.jpg
Might be a bit too shiny... don’t think I’ll need to do any finishing on this.

Cadas

12th January 2021, 06:37 PM

Parts coming thick and fast now, have to get a shift on as work is wondering where I am and I had a goal to get the front end done this Christmas.

While paint dries, the sand blaster pulled a binder and did the bonnet frame overnight.

So, bonnet and frame now as one

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210112/5621b45e27ceac3b90c937462fa83844.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210112/c3d0b4795673cfe17c7f6c06d9a7baec.jpg
Ready for another epoxy and colour. Bonnet was very straight so got lucky.

Riveting was another pleasant couple of hours. Rivets came from the eBay supplier in the UK, not the cheapest but they charge very little for extra bags of rivets, so I got loads of spare and so it became more reasonable.

Here’s my setup for single handed riveting

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210112/6df55c4096f9523a3b23e663678b95a7.jpg
Rivet tool is locked in a vice and the bonnet is supported so you can move it around and hold it one handed.

I’ve a vintage smooth face hammer which is a dream and dresses the heads down beautifully. It’s a back to front way of doing it, but it is safe, and very neat, the rivet tool doesn’t touch the sheet metal and you can watch the two parts clamp together as you hammer.

Doing the tub may be a little challenging like this though. Will needs another plan for that.

1950landy

13th January 2021, 09:19 AM

Cadas

13th January 2021, 10:35 AM

3/8” long by 3/16 dia for the main frame,
The spare wheel mount needs slightly longer as it mounts through the frame.

I haven’t tested that yet but I think it will be 1/2”

1950landy

13th January 2021, 10:55 AM

3/8” long by 3/16 dia for the main frame,
The spare wheel mount needs slightly longer as it mounts through the frame.

I haven’t tested that yet but I think it will be 1/2”
Thanks for that I will let him know.

bemm52

14th January 2021, 09:42 AM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210112/0696315ecc8af9ec38a81caa350297dc.jpg

there is a bit of fiddling reassembling the wings as there is a lot of wracking that can occur
This gives either the sad face when viewed from the front with sagging sides or happy face with pushed up sides.
I think the key is keep top of wing and side at ninety degrees before tightening the bolts

Cadas

14th January 2021, 11:38 AM

Cheers, just done that bit, wasn’t too bad but to be fair in all of the welding and shrinking I had been test fitting the panels a fair bit.

Hopefully all will be sorted today

Cadas

14th January 2021, 02:14 PM

Wings onhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/83791522a9861bccede1da1a55cd7640.jpg

Don’t think I could get him much straighter
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/05a0f6a19a54a867f3fdbfa2e1d72e98.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/08c54d4cf0f0bf663652e8f97c037ecf.jpg
Well that was the success, but I’m now having engine trouble. Looking for some suggestions.

He was running beautifully, but I could see a leak from the main jet, but a big leak around the manifold join, fuel would leak out under acceleration.

So took the carb out last night, replaced washer on main jet and flattened base and packer, put it all back together but now he will only run on half choke.

I’ve checked for leaks, nothing, recleaned jets but he just dies on idle.

Bit stumped!

flyboy

14th January 2021, 04:46 PM

Cadas

14th January 2021, 05:23 PM

Thanks, done that so I know it’s leak free, hence the confusion.

I’m thinking, not checked yet, but I now reckon the float might be stuck down (or the valve)

flyboy

14th January 2021, 06:02 PM

Well if it doesn’t run, at least it’s looking bloody good!

Cadas

14th January 2021, 06:26 PM

Well if it doesn’t run, at least it’s looking bloody good!

Thank you!

Cadas

14th January 2021, 07:02 PM

Well I found the problem... Me!!!

It suddenly hit me that I did something else to the carb last night.... I changed the body gasket.

It seems the holes in the gasket do have to line up with the ones in the carburettor

I’ve had a great day.... just been to buy some magnetic fender covers to protect the wings.... got half way home before I remembered.

ramblingboy42

14th January 2021, 09:11 PM

mmm , screw 'em down.

or glue 'em down.

1950landy

14th January 2021, 10:31 PM

It may be sucking air in somewhere?
If you can get it to idle and spray starter fluid around the intake manifold/carby area. If it’s sucking air the revs will increase when you’re near the leak...

If you just use a spray bottle of water you will get same result & no chance of a fire. [biggrin]

Parker

14th January 2021, 10:43 PM

Love that color!!

Alf

16th January 2021, 03:07 PM

Love that color!!

I could never work out why people paint vehicles the same color as the ROAD.
On the other hand, With a color like that "Don't rob the bank"!

Cadas

16th January 2021, 03:45 PM

I think I’ll need to rob a bank by the time this resto is done.

Question for brains trust, the part of the loom that does the headlights, etc, what route does it take from the dash to the radiator panel?

I’ve seen some where is clipped along the top of the wing, but it’s too short for that, does it drop and run along the chassis?

The loom is historically accurate so it will only go where Land Rover intended... I just don’t know where that is?

JDNSW

16th January 2021, 04:22 PM

Series 2/a runs along the RH mudguard , joining to the headlight harness etc just in front of the battery. The holes in the radiator support and mudguard are at the top.

Cadas

16th January 2021, 06:42 PM

Series 2/a runs along the RH mudguard , joining to the headlight harness etc just in front of the battery. The holes in the radiator support and mudguard are at the top.

That’s brilliant, I had it running the other side, it fits perfectly now.

Thanks!

Cadas

25th January 2021, 04:31 PM

Sid had his face on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210125/e88d537461960c5430efeb710ad94eab.jpg

Got the bonnet and apron done over the weekend, all nice and neat and the catch went together nicely so it all works as it should

The original light bowls were all pretty good so they have cleaned up well. Just waiting on sidelights from the UK, craddocks are as efficient ([emoji15]) as ever.
I did find new gaskets at the local classic mini specialist, amazing how many parts are common to both

The final bits of the loom went in as well so he’s all good to go. And he purrs, engine is now fully tuned and set up.

I can sort of see the end in sight. We’re digging the tub out of storage tomorrow and that’s the next chapter. Using the tub of the scrap Land Rover as it is very straight inside and there’s no paint on the outside. Probably a few more repairs to do on the rest end but all in all it’s a better option.

Trying to fill the box for galvanising ASAP.

Unfortunately, although the end can be seen, this final section seems to be full of big expensive bits, I need doors now, tyres are needed soon and the alternator is kaput, then there’s seats and the hood.

I also thought last night I’d better sort out some insurance. We were only 500m from the fire zone in Adelaide yesterday.

chuck

25th January 2021, 08:09 PM

Thanks for your write up.

A hint for tyres if you are on a budget a few tyre places are selling 79 series landcruiser take offs which are basically brand new.

Tyre size is 225 x 95 x 16 which i believe is close to the old 7.5 x 16 size.

You should be able to get them for about $125.00 each

Look on ebay or gumtree or go down to the nearest tyre dealer to a toyota dealership.

I am going to get a set for the 109.

Cadas

25th January 2021, 08:15 PM

Thanks, I had heard that, but I haven’t found anywhere local, but then we’re not really a big mining state so perhaps that will make it harder.

I’ll keep looking. I love the look of the old Olympics that are on it, so looking for something similar.

Cadas

26th January 2021, 06:33 PM

Happy Australia Day!

https://youtu.be/4kttGTS90dE

nailed that double de-clutching (not)

(Unlocked the video now[emoji849])

Cadas

30th January 2021, 05:07 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210130/cede6f8910ca46c10aa6307869269902.jpg

This was a fun job to do on a hot day. Wheels are heading for powder coating, but old tyres had to go. This is the spare set of rims.

First run took an hour and filled the swear jar, by the end, a Sabre saw gets them off in under 10 mins.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210130/485adad49ab9d98ca05afb4e38ecc825.jpg

Also stripping all the trim of the tub to get ready for galvanising, thought I’d take the opportunity to check on the tailgate I made. I had not been able to test fit it as the tub was in storage.

Happy with that!!

Cadas

1st February 2021, 07:49 PM

Had a big clear out today and moved on all the spare body parts. Meet some great Land Rover owners who all seem to own at least 4... feeling left out.

Mind you, I do wonder how many will get the planned restoration and how many are just being stored for the next owner. Hopefully they need a new home for a SWB next year [emoji6]

The pile for galvanising has gotten pretty big, and looking through it, there’s quite a bit of prep work needed.

Today’s beast is the front bumper. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210201/ce1016b4c7f43709546d846e69d1f964.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210201/73654ab6a7ba8d155e3495c603fbe352.jpg
Sand blasting revealed weld repairs and they didn’t do a good job. That and 50 years of life.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210201/d4e632480da85f8b7e63cc7acda55f1b.jpg
I was shown how to straighten tractor parts by a a French farmer, and it’s the best way to do bumpers. That is the only tool that works and it does it brilliantly.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210201/735d3d06deec150b55fe905887c2dbe9.jpg
Welded, straight and no extra holes. I also welded over the worse of the dings and scrapes as you can’t dress them out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210201/f8bf9dd1d0a3879736104624fee0cdca.jpg
Ready to go.

1950landy

1st February 2021, 10:20 PM

Cadas

1st February 2021, 10:42 PM

Yes, unfortunately no real way of avoiding it.

I did weld the butt joints from the inside to reduce the outer weld, but the holes were just something that can’t really be done any other way.

1950landy

2nd February 2021, 09:12 AM

Yes, unfortunately no real way of avoiding it.

I did weld the butt joints from the inside to reduce the outer weld, but the holes were just something that can’t really be done any other way.
Just warning you so you are not disappointed with the galv when it comes back.

Cadas

2nd February 2021, 03:00 PM

Thanks, I’m aware of the galvanising problem with welded steel. I did contemplate tig welding everything but sourcing the right rods, etc and the length of time it would take, I decided it wasn’t worth it.

The bumper is far from perfect, so it should be ok. Worst case, it gets done again.

I’m told polishing the weld can help which I will try.

Cadas

2nd February 2021, 03:08 PM

Some of you may have noticed my subtle ([emoji848]) hints about a SWB ...

The only reason I bought Sid was my wife talked me in to it and she has now decided that Land rovers don’t live happily on their own and has directed that Sid needs a sibling.

So, on the look out for the next project. Not in a huge hurry, but if anyone knows of a SWB they would like to see get the Sid treatment (and not be one of those ‘one day’ projects/garden art ) can you let me know. Preference for somewhere near Adelaide.

Looking for an early 2a petrol, full restoration is planned but there has to be enough there to weld back together. As complete as possible, but as you’ve seen with Sid, everything gets rebuilt. I do have a spare 2.25 & gearbox, but would prefer to get something complete.

Next one will be a traditional restoration, I’ve always liked the Old blue ones.

Thanks

Cadas

6th February 2021, 05:18 PM

More bits for Sid, new alternator
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/624515d1ce45bd72178ddd40a9f14ae9.jpg
Next problem, finding a fan and pulley. They were fitted to just about every British car in the 60’s and 70’s but can’t find one yet.

Any suggestions?

1950landy

6th February 2021, 05:40 PM

JDNSW

7th February 2021, 07:27 AM

Not to be picky, but that picture is definitely a generator (Au) or dynamo (UK), not an alternator.

Cadas

7th February 2021, 07:52 AM

8th February 2021, 08:07 AM

Nope.... it’s an alternator, inside a dynamo body.

These ‘dynators’ used to be crazy money, custom made but now they are the same price as an off the shelf modern alternator.

You can get just about any Lucas dynamo model refitted as an alternator.
Correct, bought one of these a few years back for similar money to a new alternator, plus didn't have to muck around with different mounts etc. Easy conversion!

JDNSW

8th February 2021, 08:43 AM

Nope.... it’s an alternator, inside a dynamo body.

These ‘dynators’ used to be crazy money, custom made but now they are the same price as an off the shelf modern alternator.

You can get just about any Lucas dynamo model refitted as an alternator.

Thanks for that - something I was not aware of, but I suppose I should not be surprised. I replaced the generator on my 2a with a Series 3 one (including bracket) many years ago, so I have not been looking!

flyboy

11th February 2021, 05:27 PM

What tyres did you end up fitting? They look good...

Cadas

11th February 2021, 05:36 PM

I haven’t yet, they are the old ones.

I agree they look great, but they are very old Olympic brand. A Land Rover Nut came over last week and informed me that they are the first iteration of the Olympic tyre, he could tell this from the raised lettering and the spacing

[emoji15]

Evidently in the 80’s they changed to a different lettering profile.

Although they look good they are 30 years old and not worth the risk.

I haven’t found cheap Toyota tires yet. My wheels are being powder coated this week so I have to make a decision soon. I’m looking at the Dunlop road grippers as being quite traditional (and cheaper). I did look at the BFG but the tread ribs are angled.... looks a bit flashy.

Still no nearer a decision, but next week I have to.

Any recommendations for a traditional 7.5x16 with a chunky look would be appreciated.

flyboy

11th February 2021, 05:47 PM

Ok thanks!
I also have old Olympic tyres which I’m trying to get a similar look to.
Let me know what you end up with!
It seems some of the ones I like the look of are too harsh adding to the already rough ride in a series!
Did you look at Michelin XZL’s? Expensive though [emoji849].

russellrovers

11th February 2021, 09:37 PM

Cadas

12th February 2021, 07:36 PM

You know it’s getting close when the deliveries come in big boxes.

Today’s goodies

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/6926c9d0c251b978b763afd8be02f243.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210212/9e24fcab61b80fd2d81820e5104d4d99.jpg
Pair of new galv framed doors. They aren’t too bad, survived the trip from the UK pretty well.

The finishing is a bit agricultural and I have some shaping to do on the passenger door where there’s a bit of distortion, but overall, should be easy enough to get these painted.

JDNSW

12th February 2021, 09:15 PM

You know it’s getting close when the deliveries come in big boxes.

Today’s goodies

Pair of new galv framed doors. They aren’t too bad, survived the trip from the UK pretty well.

The finishing is a bit agricultural and I have some shaping to do on the passenger door where there’s a bit of distortion, but overall, should be easy enough to get these painted.

Perhaps worth pointing out that this is exactly what the vehicle was designed for - in other words, the finish is appropriate!

Cadas

13th February 2021, 08:22 AM

Ha! Agreed. They are indeed making these completely original, dents and all.

On the flip side, these are sold as premium panels, yet they are so rough in finishing they require considerable work.

The panels I make myself look pretty good in comparison.

Cadas

14th February 2021, 04:41 PM

This weekends task comes under the heading of ‘why did I start this!’ Or... don’t try this at home’

After much deliberation I had sold the original tub of Sid and kept the spare to restore. It seemed the better of the two. It looked good after removing the braces, but not so good after the power wash. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210214/d4e680693fe4d20af943ea4cf2ee12ee.jpg
All of the ribs were rotten where the braces were. There was little option but to cut the rot out and replace. I considered replacing the floor, but I can’t make top hat braces at home and even more of an issue is the spot welding. In hindsight, I could have made a sub frame from aluminium box section....

16 repair sections require batch production

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210214/e49f71593954e8abb4949d006a755fd6.jpg

44mm wide strips, marked, folded to a u channel and cut to length

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210214/117cdb3b8e5d3e43d5fb6a69b69a9c0a.jpg

Before

And after tig welding all the pieces in

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210214/949836e985110bb1b5791b4657dc878f.jpg
Not the prettiest, mainly because I couldn’t clean up the inside of the old rib. That and welding outside is a pig.

With that done i noticed that the rear tub cross member had been abused

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210214/dd6661ecbca847c4aa4691fbafc1b9f1.jpg

It wasn’t fixed on one side and most of it was held in with self tappers.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210214/b1e74f2e7d33a7b829ea5887eee51694.jpg

Out for repairs. I needed to fix the bolt holes, but now I can fix it properly and re align the back end. It’s only held in with 4 bolts and about a dozen spot welds, most of them to the rear quarters which I’m taking off as well.

For a tub in good condition, most of it is being taken apart.

Cadas

18th February 2021, 06:49 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210218/7c5e446b385d619d4f42084f33830327.jpg
It’s taken a few months but finally, a brand new unused, original lid for the solex. And correct thread banjo.

Cadas

20th February 2021, 04:58 PM

Back to tub thumping

The rear aluminium cross member is a mess. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210220/9a735467b8f6d345b28f8fcd7df325b6.jpg
And welding this kit is going to test the patience.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210220/60ca8a3ab15c8bd6ad081036c2967b25.jpg
There’s been a couple of prangs I reckon.

So to heck with that

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210220/54cdc0a88499f8d2a01a02fe71342d74.jpg
Made a new one. It’s welded together out of two pieces of 3mm 25x32 angle which fits perfectly and I could make it including all the welding in under an hour. And the braces

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210220/bfc573c9db38f3ae7a1f44ed4555e16d.jpg

The real benefit is that I now have a straight end to start rebuilding all the panels from.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210220/bcac0a2c5e3d4a4bca385603b6bea9b7.jpg

Much neater
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210220/6fa38d82c3a855d9a6d4a11316ae7650.jpg

Cadas

21st February 2021, 05:06 PM

Today’s episode of Land Rover welding and fabrication focuses on....

Fitting an alternator. ... yep.

As I’ve bought a dynamo bodied alternator, the challenge in fitting it is that everything that held a dynamo in place was chucked away when the alternator went in.

There is a part you can buy but photos show it’s only made from folded steel, so decided to fabricate one.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210221/60fc7bd1128079917a866f2fdaf20501.jpg

The aim is to make it slightly shorter and use Packers to dial in the alignment. There’s no real adjustment other than spacers to align the pulleys.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210221/d1029a7fa43a21459a8fbc6f406ea62f.jpg

Spacers can be cut from the old alternator!! This will test the patience, you can only test it by fitting the alternator and doing everything to tight, underneath the car, supporting the alternator with your finger tips hoping it doesn’t drop in your head. 8 or 9 times seems about par.

The new dynamo came with spade fittings, my new loom has rings, not sure if it’s intentional but I found I could turn the fitting around and end up with a bolt extending out rather than a screw head holding the spade bit.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210221/6898ec76ab3b5c0eff81586ba04419d8.jpg

All in, done, running and the alternator light has finally gone out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210221/776fd8618f447f8ca677a81ae3a6e1a5.jpg

Cadas

22nd February 2021, 07:20 PM

Galvanising had started to arrive

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210222/fd2bf28e927f3eea3438a3871f3f1b45.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210222/5b622ba1559840ad58b931b0ba8b86f6.jpg

Cadas

23rd February 2021, 07:02 PM

More galvanising
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/1f0f8bb8a58373c3ee8966b4786ad403.jpg

Looks brilliant. But I am now seriously p**d with myself for not doing the chassis. Talking to the plant, it would have been about $300 and done overnight. Still.... next one gets done.

Cheered myself up with the rivet gun... that never gets old.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/97863a3ac81bf0a7e62bdfca517b435b.jpg

67hardtop

23rd February 2021, 09:51 PM

Aren't you supposed to put the wear strips on first??

Cadas

23rd February 2021, 10:41 PM

You mean the strips inside the tub? Don’t think so.

The only rivets I’ve put in are the braces to ribs on the tub floor. The holes for all the strips are still there waiting until after the tub is painted.

The only other bits to fit are the rubber pads, but they get riveted on from underneath.

The outer rivets for each brace are the strange double headed type which I am still looking for options there. Likely to be big pop rivets or maybe solid head.

I found a proper rivet hammer tool from an aircraft supplier selling kits for apprentices. Not tried it yet.

1950landy

24th February 2021, 08:31 AM

So was Kev able to supply the pully & fan for the alternator.

Cadas

24th February 2021, 09:30 AM

Yes, he found a set and after a bit of a clean up it did the job perfectly.

Thanks for the heads up!

Paul

Cadas

24th February 2021, 07:15 PM

Fiddly bits today

Door catches, old ones were seized so either buy new or restore.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210224/5ace49c3b2b3ceb1d7f37f516c2ef713.jpg
These do not like coming apart, there’s four steel rivets and a pin to get out.

My other issue is they don’t fit the new doors and have no confidence that new ones would either. Back plates needed to be straightened and re bent to the new door profile.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210224/8aa5deaedd58a1290b707da6bbdf5a38.jpg
New springs from Bunnings!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210224/5eb1ed4db058e1c013dc1a6741b7e579.jpg

And then all finished and put back together with new lock
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210224/8197562b7a8fa30131232789ffd31b37.jpg

In stripping them I removed the plastic coating on the handles as you can buy plastic dip in black for $30..... only to find out that it’s $80 postage for a 400ml can. So they are staying steel for now.

New rivets because I wanted to test the rivet hammer, new favourite tool, nothing like an air hammer, very gentle and quiet. Don’t have the right sized bit so will need to order another, but this will make putting the galv on a piece of cake.

Next job on tub is patching the front bolt supports.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210224/bb2e19239c8ff5dcc488062e1cc507f5.jpg
Folded up a piece of 3mm

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210224/e566d512e29fc77d165f3dd37ca5d159.jpg
Ready to weld after a bit of cleaning. 3mm aluminium is a doddle to tig weld.

I realised I went at tig the wrong way round, starting on wafer thin body panels and working my way back to heavy usage metal. [emoji1787]

JDNSW

25th February 2021, 08:49 AM

Can I suggest some black heat shrink tubing, at least temporarily, on the handles?

Cadas

25th February 2021, 07:08 PM

Needed a bit of head clearing after a long day.

Sat and welded the patches in during the evening Sun. Nice.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210225/22de2ebbd6069d2236d12a1ae97620e2.jpg
Thought best to weld both sides but probably overkill

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210225/b9ff1bab26920bfc34ee52e5f7a718a8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210225/ff08bb0b0ffb8b625e7357b920923457.jpg
Trimming and cleaning can wait until the weekend.

Next up, and hopefully final repairs are these bitshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210225/7eb0253ed290c56cbfed1e027fe9485d.jpg
They were formed from two pieces sandwiched together, thinking of replacing with a single thick plate.

67hardtop

25th February 2021, 10:52 PM

Cadas

26th February 2021, 08:52 AM

Ah.... yes and no. The original ones on Sid were a mix of rubber with copper rivets and canvas with pop rivets.

The new ones I have go on with pop rivets at they are recessed where the rivet goes.

Cadas

27th February 2021, 01:48 PM

Final structural repairs

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210227/7bd5734bbc59c2e368983bc5fa894038.jpg
There’s a bit of planning to do for each of these as I’m trying to avoid spot welds and have to consider both the angle grinder as well as welder

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210227/aa1c172b9358afae19f3461ba7d6a05a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210227/40ac8d053c85040497fb9bc98c93c13e.jpg
Made from two layers of 1.6

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210227/62451d12fdbb686f865e5ef4e8de1bad.jpg
Rivets used initially to hold both sections as alignment is critical as both layers must line up perfectly.
They then get plug welded together

Finished repair

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210227/4074dcc7c711edf37609bf55c43ca964.jpg
Similar repair the other side

Final job is grinding welds off and checking for cracks. I’ve found that is after grinding that the cracks can show up so part of the planning for repairs is being about to leave welds without grinding where they can’t be seen.

bemm52

27th February 2021, 09:14 PM

Wish I had your alloy welding skills

169110

Cheers Paul

Cadas

27th February 2021, 10:00 PM

Thank you.... It’s taken a lot of practice (about 4 bottles of argon and I’m on E size now [emoji1787]). I’ve still got a long way to go.

I am though getting comfortable with tig. When it finally clicks, then suddenly you find you have lots of time and it’s no longer a frantic process.

Things that clicked for me... you need a lot more power than you think. Low power = slow heat up and big puddle, crank up the power and the arc goes small, you can watch the puddle forming and it doesn’t run away.

Watch for the puddle to drop.... this was the light bulb moment. If the puddle is flat or slightly domed then you haven’t gone deep enough. When the puddle sags, you’re through and now you have to move and fill. Once that’s over the movement becomes straightforward and the puddle really easy to control.

Welded steel the other day with tig, that is so good to do, not sure how often I’ll be using the MIG.

Cadas

28th February 2021, 01:17 PM

Back quarters done today

Old ones were too far gone and needed lots of repair, plus they were full of holes and quite a few spot welds had broken

So old ones off. Quite a bit of repair to do inside from impact damage but bit of bashing and it has come back enough for everything to line up square.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210228/8f27dffa7019aa00ad3639dea0cc9de4.jpg

New ones made. Couldn’t quite see why these are around $300 a pair, they took an hour to make and about $20 of ally. Granted the new ones have the vertical braces but the old ones are fine.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210228/06c8b97cea239e3259ca3cc636fbc410.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210228/41815ac27a52ca87391ba5108b2a43b1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210228/80c59390c5f4c44ff2d7f6d25b634dd4.jpg

Plan is to use panel bonds where I can an a few carefully placed rivets.

Tub is getting close, I’ve a few more welding repairs around the seats and then it’s on to bodywork prep.

Cadas

1st March 2021, 03:55 PM

Decision time on tyres.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210301/ff74e61b1a96551aba02408e9c4a513f.jpg
Wheels came back today.

Cadas

5th March 2021, 04:44 PM

Decision made, these arrived today

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210305/789faa46e2fe02ba40b86a05e99abfd7.jpg

After endless deliberation, analysis, spreadsheets, astrology and other decision making tools, it came down to an offer I couldn’t refuse

Tyroola were selling these 235/85 tyres for $140 delivered.

There’s a few landrover owners in Sydney fitting these and seem very happy and they look the part.

Not original, but with mobile fitting I’m in for under $700 which is a big saving. That saving is most of the cost of a canvas roof!!

Cadas

5th March 2021, 06:09 PM

More tub repairs this week.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210305/f5046eecbcb74fa339ae1c00d956fb83.jpg
Previous owner had cut the end out of the right side compartment (both ends). I’ve toyed with the idea of over sheeting the side wells but the work required to make the openings is about the same as repairing the old ones.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210305/e3c240b5498879a6e0056f483816f189.jpg
Half way through, patches in and the 20+ rivet holes filled in. Rough sanding and hammer and dolly work done.

Tub needs to go outside now so I can use a torch and hose pipe to shrink the back edge into a straight (hopefully) line that can be dressed to a finished edge.

I’ve switched filler rods to 5356 in finding the 4043 is fine for most stuff but it hates being dressed or planished afterwards. Oddly, it’s also much easier to sand.

Cadas

6th March 2021, 05:30 PM

Saved the biggest job until last

When I power washed the tub, this became apparent
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210306/22dd3d5eb3db0dba7e9292ed691d2917.jpg
I think there has been some seats fitted.

All rotted out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210306/329d9613e67743bc788b9286ca56d22e.jpg
New patch, these really have to be accurate. 1.6mm sheet to match.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210306/9cf3fbfcb8b09ec18389cff664626638.jpg
This took all day, given the need to avoid distortion it was spot welds only, and that is painfully slow with tig.

Bit of filler work to to at the back where I can’t get a hammer underneath to dress it

One more patch to do on the other side, then it’s just random holes and I can finally fix the rear quarters in.

Cadas

7th March 2021, 06:22 PM

Tub structures are done, finished off all the patches and myriad of screw, rivet and bolt holes.

Between welding, I’ve focused this week on fit and finish for the tub. There’s quite a bit of work in this. Starting with the new rear brace I made, getting that aligned and getting the tub square took a while, I had to weld and redrill the bolt holes to get it right.

Then it’s a case of working each panel to square and fit until we get a tub there is a straight as it’s going to be.

Worth it though,

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/b81f7ca35216616b69ef5bf99d8abedd.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/9ca87c950bfe8a430cb3e199a43f7a5f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/cc28b6acd2b00a1343426e94737111f9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/f45ba080f2f2fbdac98d5c92bb9f4ef5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/3cdac966f4e89936dd2f50eebba973ea.jpg

I’ve still fix the rear quarters but need to clean the insides of the boxes first. After that’s done, tub will come off for sanding and body prep.

grey_ghost

7th March 2021, 06:28 PM

Looks great. Brilliant actually.

Do you have the lids for the compartments and/or the spare wheel tub that fits in there?

Cadas

7th March 2021, 06:36 PM

Thank you!

I do have the bits, spare wheel tub is off for galvanising this week, the lids look a bit worse for wear, but they make good patterns. It’s a 5 minute job to make new lids.

JDNSW

7th March 2021, 08:19 PM

Cadas

8th March 2021, 04:35 PM

Probably worth mentioning here -

The position of the tub on the chassis is fixed, essentially by the rear panel bolting to the rear crossmember. The width of the door opening is set by the position of the firewall (bulkhead), whose position can be adjusted by washers between it and the chassis outriggers. This should be done by trial fitting of doors with the tub in place, before fitting the front mudguards.

Yes, something I anticipating down the track, I’m trying to get it all close enough for now as the tub will be coming off for painting and I haven’t fitted sills yet.

I gave it a trial fit today

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210308/52beedf1f6af2186c010e416f2049508.jpg

Bulkhead needed a vertical adjustment on the passenger side, drivers side not too bad, suspect it will need a packer.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210308/e32ecb4bf6c33cdd3d8cd051398b618a.jpg

Finishing the tub today, wire brushed it for a couple of hours, and fitted rear quarters.

Glue https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210308/25b396cbfbb8548327bf42a569ace2cd.jpg
Keep acetone handy as this stuff gets everywhere.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210308/b61d59910209e0527af9764229d06954.jpg
I’m using it where the spot welds were

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210308/10f03dceb7c920765e36df885af37ca2.jpg
And on the top braces.

Instructions say 24-48 hours to dry so I’ve riveted the panels in temporarily, but an afternoon in the sun and they are pretty solid already. When the galv goes on it will be pretty strong.

Back to doors though, hinges look as though they will be trouble. I have new pin kits, but the top hinges look too long, and also look as though they need a packer. They are pushing the door back and in. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210308/2a6eec99e789752b54f92103c0fc8833.jpg

Can’t take up any more movement.

JDNSW

8th March 2021, 08:15 PM

My LH top hinge has a 1.5mm packer under the hinge onto the firewall, and I seem to remember having to make an enlarged brass ball for one of them!

Cadas

9th March 2021, 06:28 PM

New boots!!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210309/509b3552d7f17a354fed6d30c37e11d2.jpg

Cadas

10th March 2021, 08:44 AM

Still working on the next project. On the lookout for a SWB chassis and tub.

If anyone knows of one in SA would be appreciated.

JDNSW

10th March 2021, 09:20 AM

....

Back to doors though, hinges look as though they will be trouble. I have new pin kits, but the top hinges look too long, and also look as though they need a packer. They are pushing the door back and in. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210308/2a6eec99e789752b54f92103c0fc8833.jpg

Can’t take up any more movement.

Suggestion - could you consider filing the mounting surface of the hinge to angle the bulkhead part of it out and forward? And check whether the bulkhead surface is not bent. Also consider a wedge packer or spacer.

Cadas

10th March 2021, 09:30 AM

I was thinking the same thing. Bulkhead is square, so the only thing left to adjust is the hinge alignment and that I think will mean packers of varying thickness and taper.

grey_ghost

12th March 2021, 07:49 AM

Hi,

I used a packer on the passenger side hinge on my S2:

https://i.imgur.com/UDvDfxT.jpg

I also used some foam/rubber when I installed it:

https://i.imgur.com/tJ7qklJ.jpg

Which was because my "A" pillar was not exactly square:

https://i.imgur.com/Rpy1KhR.jpg

It worked perfectly:

https://i.imgur.com/huIapdG.jpg

Cheers,
GG.

1950landy

12th March 2021, 09:19 AM

When I first saw the orange colour I was not sure but the more i look at it the more i like it , great job.

Cadas

12th March 2021, 10:04 AM

As stuff goes on it gets better and better. It’s exactly the colour I hoped for, as Sid is meant to be a happy truck!

Dgd69

12th March 2021, 07:23 PM

When I first saw the orange colour I was not sure but the more i look at it the more i like it , great job.

Yeah they do look good in orange mine is ex-telecom Australia so was originally orange.
There’s quite a few now around now painted orange

Cadas

14th March 2021, 04:59 PM

Weste not great this weekend so odds and ends.

I have been fixing the adjustable seat runners, but I’ve dropped the ball bearings on the floor and can’t find them to finish that job.

So more body work

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210314/c44533e11b01813e8e348d7e2487bd68.jpg
Side skirts are a bit battered. Dented as anything and cracked.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210314/88eef671552c67d9cbbd9206779d1fd0.jpg
Made a new one piece bracket for the end that I could plug weld and fix both the end and replace the rotten bracket.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210314/ff013c3b7d6e8b16fb80c972db162c1e.jpg
Then patiently tapping the whole thing back to straightness. A leather lead shot dolly is the tool for this, allows you to gently remove the dents without stretching the metal.

I may go back over with a hard dolly to take out any Hammer marks, but it’s probably just a skim of filler instead.

Cadas

17th March 2021, 07:42 PM

All the galv is back.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210317/4d892360a2fd7e0320bece3fe507eeda.jpg

Absolutely everything has been done and looks amazing. The rubbing strips are like new.

This has been a great outcome and really not expensive. All up, the galvanising was $210 and that included the windscreen and bumper plus everything else.

A fair bit has to be sandblasted, the galv process will clean a lot but it’s better if paint and rust are cleaned off properly.

If you are in Adelaide, Adelaide Galv did a great job and would highly recommend.

Cadas

19th March 2021, 03:44 PM

Ordered the hoop set today which was more of a challenge than I had hoped. No one seems to have stock, and the main supplier Exmoor seem to be on very long wait times at the moment.

Found a set in the UK with sensible postage, just hood and upholstery left to order.

Aim is to get a fair bit of painting done over the next few weeks and then it’s assembly time.

I am under pressure to finish, the new project arrives on Saturday.

Given this is to be my wife’s toy, suddenly Sid is taking too long and I’m being told to get a move on and finish him so I can start work on her project.

1950landy

19th March 2021, 10:21 PM

And what pray tell is your next project for your wife. I bought my wife a MGBGT once without her knowing that was completely dismantled ( just a body shell & boxes of parts) , once I restored it she found her legs were not long enough to reach the peddles & if I remounted the seat forward the steering wheel was too close to her chest. Well it's the thought that counts so they say. [bigsad]

Cadas

20th March 2021, 06:42 AM

All will be revealed later today.

I can say that it’s British, 1959, 2 seater, 4 cylinder petrol with a wheelbase under 90”

Cadas

20th March 2021, 06:16 PM

And here’s Arthur

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210320/48c4d1b1ff5b008997fa5c0f772ee63c.jpg

I hope you all guessed correctly and weren’t thinking S2 SWB.

Arthur is a 1959 Thames Freighter who is now destined to be a camper van after a lot of work. And I mean a lot.

The primary panel beating tool so far is a broom.

But he is 100% complete, was parked up in the mid 1970’s and has not moved since.

A shortie is still on the radar, but wife gave an ultimatum, it was this or a caravan or a kombi ....... and this was scrap value.

1950landy

20th March 2021, 10:24 PM

I was looking up sports cars but they all came up just under & over the 90" wheel base. I remember when I first went to look at my 80" & we drove down the road , the wife said let's not stop, my reply was it is better than i expected . When I started stripping her down she was what I expected , had to remake half the chassis.

Cadas

21st March 2021, 08:08 AM

I’m not going to turn this into a Thames restoration thread, Arthur is going into storage until Sid is done.

It has been interesting looking him over last night. Chassis, running gear, etc are perfect.... immaculate, change the rubbers and good to go.

He is #15 in the production run, numbers matching with the original zephyr in line 4 and 3 speed box.

Body is shot.... I’m in for a lot of fabrication.

There is so much on this van that is shared with landrover, hydraulics, etc came from the same parts book.

The real challenge I am beginning to see is that these things are rare. Unlike Sid, I don’t have a choice of 20 suppliers and heaps of pattern parts. There were only 183,000 made over 10 years, and given they were steel and vans, very few are left. The global owners Facebook site has 900 members.

There is one manufacturer of body panels, hand made to order and priced to match.

He will be a great project and by the end I reckon he will cost about the same as you’d pay for a rough kombi.

Back to Sid.

1950landy

21st March 2021, 09:27 AM

I do hope when you do start on Arthur that you find somewhere on the forum to record your progress may be in Non Land Rover Vehicles , Trucks , Bus & Camper Conversions. I do look forward to reading about the amazing job you are doing on Sid I love reading anyone's rebuild on any type of old vehicle.:thumbsup:

Johnno1969

23rd March 2021, 11:32 AM

Johnno1969

23rd March 2021, 11:36 AM

And here’s Arthur

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210320/48c4d1b1ff5b008997fa5c0f772ee63c.jpg

Perfectly named.[smilebigeye]

Cadas

23rd March 2021, 12:03 PM

Hell's horses, that looks good! Only $210??

Yes I was very surprised, took it in two batches first was all the long stuff and windscreen and second the bits and pieces.

I think they have done a few land rovers, they recognised the parts straight off.

Johnno1969

26th March 2021, 12:09 AM

Yes I was very surprised, took it in two batches first was all the long stuff and windscreen and second the bits and pieces.

I think they have done a few land rovers, they recognised the parts straight off.

That's really impressive. Certainly food for thought. I did a bit of work on my vehicle a while back, considered getting some galvanising done and then discounted the idea without really looking into it. Maybe next time.

Thanks.

John

Homestar

26th March 2021, 09:41 AM

Hell's horses, that looks good! Only $210??

Galvanising isn't as expensive as most think. Used to be $100 for 100Kg as a minimum order. If you took in 10Kg it still cost $100. My local place is around 3 times that now, but they will group stuff together for small cashies like us to keep costs down. The biggest issue is that most of the smaller places have shut now leaving the big places doing it all - and some of these won't take small cash jobs any more.

If you work in the construction industry and know a site manager of a decent sized construction company, it's not too hard at times to get a few bits added to a structural steel gal order - they'll point you to the steel subbies to have a chat to - slabs of beer go a long way for these sort of things. [bigwhistle][thumbsupbig]

Cadas

26th March 2021, 10:42 AM

Adelaide galv has a min $30 charge which is excellent, but when I took first batch in the owner said pay at the end.

This was through the books

I can’t rate this business highly enough, even when items were not perhaps prepped as much as they should have been, they ran them through the tanks a couple of times.

Should also say it was a 24/48hr turnaround from drop off to collect.

Homestar

26th March 2021, 02:14 PM

That's outstanding. Next time I need something done I'll come bring it over in my Ute when I'm working over there and get it done. [biggrin]

Cadas

26th March 2021, 08:01 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210326/5f40c351b8a3574ed1563eae7269114e.jpg
This could make things interesting.

I’d forgotten I’d ordered this, it was months ago direct from a factory in China. Turned up today.

$95 USD for a 16amp, 4kva spot welder.... bonkers and worth a go. Not tested it yet, looking for rubber gloves and Wellington boots first.

It won’t spot weld aluminium directly, but with a bit of trickery there is a way.

I shall test and report back.... hopefully

Cadas

28th March 2021, 03:17 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/dae8f0e207fa02a350167fc458db79de.jpg
Tub underside is done. Painting was done by my lovely wife who for some reason wants to help get Sid finished.

Long weekend coming up so he’s going inside for filler and paint.

Decided to get brave and play with the spot welder. Interesting, I sat down to have a good chuckle at the Chinese translated instructions but they were perfect, then I realised the instructions were for a Miller spot welder and checking their website it’s the same booklet. Not sure if the factory just nicked it or what

It is quite intimidating....
on steel

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/9ca16b377790e1a76e721e90ef4089ce.jpg
Works fine, this is 0.8, 3 seconds per weld. Fully fixed, hammer and chisel job to part.

This is ally. I did not think this works have the power to even try it on straight aluminium.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/4df260a9c7e34acb933d0fad77e80566.jpg
Middle one is a short fire.. no good, bottom worked but blew through, very hard to time properly. If there was a timer it might work.

Top one used steel tack plates under the electrodes, 4 second burst.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210328/ac124bfcd030a97177b2ca4c68909f7d.jpg
Won’t pull apart.

Not sure if it will get used on Sid, but I am re-looking at the tailgate. It will though get a fair go on Arthur being a steel body van.

Johnno1969

28th March 2021, 09:53 PM

That tub's looking brilliant! [bigsmile1]

1950landy

28th March 2021, 10:10 PM

Years ago I tried spot welding my 80" panels without success , I think the problem was that as the aluminium melted the welding tips would loose tension on the two panels so there was then not enough pressure for them to stick to one another. I thought it needed to have progressive pressure on the jaws. Tried welding steel there wasn't a problem though.

Cadas

29th March 2021, 07:10 AM

That’s where the steel plates work.

For the top spot weld in the photo, I put a 30x30mm piece of thin steel sheet either side of the aluminium so the welder electrodes contact the steel, and sandwich the aluminium between.

When welded, the steel keeps the pressure on and creates higher localised resistance to get the temps higher before the aluminium can soak it away.

Cadas

2nd April 2021, 04:50 PM

Back to Sid.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210402/bd338cf84235c0d83cc5facc33a77221.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210402/51b83487e201447bba3625bbe57e2dbe.jpg
Tub has been epoxied, plan is to fill tomorrow, prime on Sunday and colour on Monday.

Slightly held up by the fact I need #1 and #2 sons to move the tub and being students, this can only happen after lunch.

I’ve gotten hold of a marquee to put on the drive for final coats.

Cadas

4th April 2021, 02:07 PM

Plan working so far.

Epoxy base, all filling done then recoat in epoxy.

This morning, high build primer

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/f2b82dbab062fecb8f1edf5fd6112dab.jpg

Cadas

5th April 2021, 12:39 PM

That’s a lot of orange

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210405/21e6552e47ca772958da9440c6bf74c7.jpg

Generally ok, couple of small runs on the outside which are not a biggie.

Made a pigs ear of the inside, I’ll have to sand the upper sides inside the tub and recoat. I tried to do the tub in one hit but I’m not good enough to do that and couldn’t reach enough to get an even coat.

Hindsight says paint inside walls and boxes first. Then floor, then outside.

Still.... it’s orange!!!!

turkeybrain

6th April 2021, 01:25 PM

Cadas

6th April 2021, 02:17 PM

It's looking very nice in its orange!

How did you find spraying in the marquee? In particular, how did you find the build up of paint mist? Did it work OK, or would extra forced ventilation be beneficial?

Cheers,
Martin

Hi, thanks

It wasn’t too bad, There were a couple of moments when I could see mist, but I just stopped for a second and let it drop.

On the final coats, because it’s beautiful weather here, I left one side off the marquee (downwind) and it kept the tent really clear. Watch for cars and neighbours though.

Wind is your enemy though, you can’t get the walls tight enough to stop flapping and potentially hitting the wet paint. I’d buy a 6x3 if I was doing it Again.

One disadvantage of orange is I struggled for plausible deniability when my wife pointed out some fine orange specks on her mini.

Cadas

6th April 2021, 02:21 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/0520e0d4d61cec7ff85ca057178af3f7.jpg
Now that’s more like it. You can see the reflections.

Big learning curve of the day (apart from recognising personal limitations) is that to spray well, you have to be able to see.

The full face air feed mask was obscuring vision. Being outside I switched to a conventional half mask and the difference is incredible. If you can watch the paint flow as it hits the metal, you can balance coverage with risk of runs and ensure an even coat.

I’m going to have to do some thinking about masks.

Cadas

6th April 2021, 06:11 PM

Grease nipples....

I replaced all the UJ’s in the prop shafts and just noticed this evening one of the grease nipples has sheared off. Assuming I can get the threaded bit out, does anyone know what thread they are likely to be?

JDNSW

7th April 2021, 04:41 PM

From memory, 1/8"BSP used to be common, but they are likely to be metric today (or pressed in!). I can't recall having a grease nipple out on a recently made U-joint.

Cadas

7th April 2021, 06:25 PM

Thanks, I’m going to assume being a new unit is metric, but who knows. Fortunately the local repco has a Hardy spicer replacement UJ in stock for $30, think that’s a better option than messing with a cheap UJ.

Cadas

9th April 2021, 05:22 PM

Friday night and getting blinged up !!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210409/7c2be66cdaff8aa326b7cbcb3cabdc9b.jpg

If you plan on doing this, get an air riveter.... you will thank me... I’ve done over 50 pop rivets and only half way.... then there’s the solid rivets.

Cadas

11th April 2021, 05:48 PM

Getting sooo close......

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210411/3b917ca1bf99974fff741fe24deebe8f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210411/5fabccd4c88c86d98ff415458ce5c625.jpg

Put another 100+ rivets in yesterday and today was all about door alignment.

Fitting the sills is a fun job...

The video on you tube about adjusting the door openings (the one with the red stick and 34&3/4” is close but there is a but which had me head scratching for ages.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210411/2804c538db98ac4735b5756a81472f08.jpg

Fitting spacers.

I cut my bit of dowel to the exact measurements but every time I adjusted the gap to be perfect, it was 5mm too wide.

Problem I found is that the returns on the pillars is not square, which matches the inner reveals of the doors.

Threw stick away and measured the gap across the face of the opening and that was perfect.

Bulkhead might a 1-2mm out but will look at that on final door fit after the seals go in.

JDNSW

12th April 2021, 06:48 AM

Somehow I feel you are exceeding the precision of Rover's original assembly!

1950landy

12th April 2021, 08:17 AM

Just one word, NICeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Cadas

12th April 2021, 08:29 AM

Somehow I feel you are exceeding the precision of Rover's original assembly!

[emoji1787]

Homestar

12th April 2021, 04:23 PM

Put another 100+ rivets in yesterday and today was all about door alignment.

That would make you a rivet counter yes....? [biggrin]

Cadas

12th April 2021, 04:37 PM

That would make you a rivet counter yes....? [biggrin]

Oh ****** you’re right.

But I reckon I’m safe,

I don’t think they’ll let me in the club given the colour I’ve painted Sid.

Cadas

18th April 2021, 01:52 PM

Last of the big panels

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210418/b5cd3dd5bc9662291bcea876c311cacc.jpg

Ordered the seats last week, local upholstery shop is doing those.

Headaches for now are the door seals. Have a reproduction set and not convinced they are going to fit. We’ll see.

Hood on its way from red earth hoods in QLD but hoops remain a mystery.

MPS are disputing the eBay complaint I raised. Evidently they feel that I should be taking the complaint up with the courier. In their world just because they paid and arranged carriage, the risk is mine so they can’t understand why I’m unhappy with then that they never arrived.

Currently with credit card company to sort.

Cadas

20th April 2021, 07:30 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210420/fb23ca56ee75176312ab88cade09359d.jpg

Back end is on. This was the tailgate I made from scratch. It’s ok, certainly within factory tolerance [emoji1787], but I would probably change some bits if I made another.

Still have the number plate light and inner chains to sort, and the rub strips, and the hood hooks... but it’s nearly done!!

Also got my money back finally on the hood hoops. So looking for where to buy a set again.

1950landy

20th April 2021, 09:23 PM

Mate of mine bought bows from O/S the company cut them in half at his request & he welded them back together with an internal sleeve when they arrived. I got mine made by a guy who dose mobile pipe rolling . Made it out of alum pipe as the alum was closes to the original steel pipe size that LR used.

Cadas

20th April 2021, 10:16 PM

Unfortunately I don’t have anything to copy or any of the bits and pieces that go with the hoops so I think I’ve got to buy a complete kit to be safe.

1950landy

21st April 2021, 08:27 AM

I forgot to mention why my mate had the bows cut in half , it reduced the freight cost by more than half.

1950landy

22nd April 2021, 08:53 AM

Unfortunately I don’t have anything to copy or any of the bits and pieces that go with the hoops so I think I’ve got to buy a complete kit to be safe.
I have a scaled drawing from a book I have for early S1 80" bows but that is not much help for your S2.

Cadas

22nd April 2021, 11:36 AM

Thanks!

Think I’m sorted, new set on the way. I’d happily make the hoops, but as I’m converting from a cab to a hood, I’m missing all the brackets and braces, etc.

Getting closer!

Cadas

22nd April 2021, 11:39 AM

Sid is road legal!!!

Registration sorted yesterday and happily was even able to retain the original number plates.

He’s not ready to be let loose yet, but I had to rego him now as the plates have to be remade, Sid’s plates are the original hand painted ones from way back and were deemed inappropriate.

Race on now to bolt everything on.

Cadas

23rd April 2021, 05:36 PM

Nice end to the week, seats are back!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210423/5cd91ad72899a6caab76b6fa4ee2ba17.jpg

I may be doing the old boys back in Birmingham a bit of a disservice, but I’m pretty sure French seams weren’t on the original options list

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210423/0c45519a90b2cd76e27496cbfa684c33.jpg

[emoji1787][emoji1787]

Cadas

25th April 2021, 11:12 AM

Things were clearly going too well. With the end in sight I’ve had a major setback.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210425/5379e2ca07e93f35aa5ddf02aa94fc50.jpg
Connected the last of the lights that arrived yesterday and one has a dead short.

Unfortunately in the time it took to disconnect the battery, the loom caught fire.

No damage to Sid other than the new loom is toast. Literally.

Hopefully I can get a new one made quickly and Sid will be back driving soon.

1950landy

25th April 2021, 01:10 PM

And hopefully you can claim on the supplier of the light for the new wiring . I made sure I added extra fuses on Landy on the last rebuild with a hidden fuse box under the bonnet near the bulkhead on the inner guard. Decided on this after having a pinched wire between instrument panel & bulkhead , took 25 years before it eventually shorted & burnt out the ignition wiring.[bighmmm]

Fitted one similar to this worked a treat 170540

Cadas

25th April 2021, 02:29 PM

Alas, I doubt there is going to be much sympathy from an eBay seller for $800 claim against a $60 light.

Thinking about rigging some fuses on the lighting circuits

Cadas

26th April 2021, 09:06 AM

The wiring problem hopefully has a solution that won’t take too long to resolve.

Only the lighting circuits back to the dash were fried. I can’t be sure what the heat did to other circuits and it destroyed the woven cloth cover, so new loom is on its way and I can still run the engine.

Kept going with the fitout, today was rebuilding seat runners. They had rusted up and needed to be stripped apart, but they were never designed to be taken to pieces.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210425/76e0d29e29bf5b05ae604d07609405e8.jpg

To get them apart you have to drill out the pressed indents that lock in the springs and ball bearings. Drill out one pair at each end.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210425/076fc9bce128d5ef064b08dc052460ae.jpg

This allows the bearings and springs to run beyond the stops and the whole thing comes to pieces.

Warning, there’s lots of sharp bits and you will trap fingers as you tap it apart.

Reassembly is fiddly, reverse of the sequence of taking apart, but you can push new bearings in after it’s together, similarly, the roller springs can be tapped in with a square piece of wood.

To replace the indents I tapped the holes and fitted grub screws

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210425/537b614ae842f3070242679aea3fb228.jpg

They aren’t the smoothest and I’m tempted to replace with after market sides. I’ll see if they loosen up.

Cadas

30th April 2021, 06:05 PM

More seat runners.

Gave up on originals. Found a universal set of 4x4 runners on eBay, delivered in 48 hrs for $38.

Nearly a straight swap, but they are a touch shorter. (These runners are 4x4 set at 440mm centres which is exactly the same as the originals. Sports or drift runners are narrower).

So made up some plates. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210430/23cb68505034c4d7b52593bfac0a86dc.jpg

5mm galv, these go inside the seat box and reinforce between the front and back of the box, picking up the old holes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210430/b0032288c6849718384faab63e5403f6.jpg
Done. Only an hours work all in, but these slide every time, not just every now and again.

Cadas

1st May 2021, 04:46 PM

There’s a lot of finishing bits and pieces.

Metal stuff today.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/472e8af75e03d2837b4b6059b078b492.jpg
New floors. 2mm aluminium and they will get painted orange. I had several sets of floors to use as templates and nothing really fitted so cardboard again.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/767f09ed8368cff4d2a118cfdad34d4d.jpg
Made some lids for the tub.

Rolled a feature strip in them for strength, it’s meant to mimic the rub strips in the tub.

Cadas

8th May 2021, 04:29 PM

Last day of painting (hopefully).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210508/2ff04584d1349814615effcbdd391e13.jpg

It’s just lots of bits and pieces now, but I am up against a deadline.

Loom is nearly done, hoping to have the replacement next week.

Hoops have arrived!!! But now realised he won’t go under the garage door [emoji849]

Started to fit door seals, but have to make spacers for hinges.

Still missing the spare wheel which remains at the powder coater

And then there’s the hood. Been in order for a while and hoping it appears soon but I’m getting a little nervous.

Johnno1969

15th May 2021, 07:16 AM

Thanks for this terrific thread and giving us a peek at the work on Sid. Fantastic work!

John

Cadas

15th May 2021, 08:06 AM

Thanks for this terrific thread and giving us a peek at the work on Sid. Fantastic work!

John

Thank you, that’s really kind.

Cadas

15th May 2021, 08:07 AM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210514/0d8dd1e58eb882149f9313eab995ddfd.jpg
Replacement loom has arrived.

Big shout to Bruce Sharman, really helped me out after I set fire to the last one.

This loom has been modified to take a temperature gauge and remove the ammeter.

Cadas

15th May 2021, 05:33 PM

Started on the wiring today. First task was to fit the new water temp gauge.

Given the ammeter was useless, and couldn’t find a volt meter, I opted for the temp gauge as being far more useful and just happened to be on sale.

Unfortunately, it’s not a straight swap, a little bit of filing is needed.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210515/599b3c769b25c5aecd41a78241ac68fc.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210515/0b6c3d76becf4b28d90963b9dbd000bf.jpg
All done, little bit ‘new’ but hey....

Cadas

16th May 2021, 02:39 PM

Wiring loom has been replaced and Sid is back driving again.

Having learned my lesson, he’s now fitted with fuses.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210516/3a73e4e087ee750944f4994c2fcac052.jpg
This neat little 4 way picks up the side lights and will do the accessory socket as well.

For the main headlights, two inline waterproof blade fuse holders are tucked up behind the rad panel.

Nothing visible, all looks original. I would have liked a fuse box with a bus bar, not found a small one yet.

(Yes that is a scorch mark)

Cadas

23rd May 2021, 05:59 PM

Sid’s getting ready, he’s starting to look out to the wild.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210523/629f72ef5fd6e11d368177802ffb9c64.jpg

I’ve been struggling to spend any time on him lately. In a moment of weakness I was persuaded out of the semi retirement I’d managed to achieve and now spending my weeks in Geelong on a major project.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210523/519100812e417c115a114b7cee621883.jpg
Interior is done, seats will go in last. I made all new floors using the old ones as patterns from 3mm ally.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210523/d3bc89e38a212f60b762275c38f609d5.jpg
Sills as well.... check out the door gaps!!!

My to do list is now under a page and full of little bits and pieces. The largest of which is door seals. I have set of britpart rubbers which look great, just wished they worked. No way can I shut the doors.

Looking at Land Rover ones now (gulp)

Still waiting on the hood, the guy making them keeps assuring me 2-3 weeks.... for several months now.

Cadas

30th May 2021, 08:43 PM

Wonderful.... stuck in Victoria

Going to be a while before Sid gets any attention.

bemm52

1st June 2021, 06:58 PM

I’ve fitted Defender seals on my 2a doors they work great ....but.....you have to be prepared to remove the lip from the door frames

Cheers Paul

Cadas

1st June 2021, 07:53 PM

bemm52

2nd June 2021, 06:40 PM

Thanks. They would have been the better choice but I didn’t realise until after I’d painted him.

New genuine landrover ones arrived today...... if it wasn’t locked down in geelong I’d fit them.
I think the genuine ones have a metal strip inside and are riveted post some pics of how you go fitting them👍
Cheers Paul

Cadas

13th June 2021, 01:40 PM

Still stuck in geelong…. Hoping they lift the border after the long weekend.

There’s a heap of parts waiting for me. No sign of the hood. After a lot of chasing and eventually posting something publicly on Facebook he finally got in touch

Rather upset at me for being an unreasonable customer.

Seems missing delivery dates by months and not answering emails or calls is just how business operates, and I should suck it up. If in hadn’t paid him 4 months ago I’d go elsewhere.

1950landy

13th June 2021, 09:27 PM

Sounds like the mob I ordered my BMW parts from the USA , when parts hadn't arrived well after due & trying to get info out of shipping Co who would not talk to me because I wasn't the seller , I went back to the seller who told me it was up to me to chase up the shipping Co. After trying on line through there complaints department one of the two parts arrived . Waited a week than rang the company to be told the part was held up in Customs & needed to pay import deputy & GST which added another $700 to the cost. Part arrived 3 days later. There is no such thing as service these days.

Cadas

14th June 2021, 07:22 AM

Luckily, there are a few good businesses out there, but unhappily the vast majority are not in Australia.

Bruce who made the wiring loom is excellent, great communications, you only pay the day he starts manufacturing, not the day you place the order. My local upholsterer was great. The sand blaster started well but became a shocker.

Don’t get me started on any of the local parts suppliers.

Australia really has to get the concept of customer service and I think when we find it we should give plenty of credit. Not for the one off as everyone gets it’s right occasionally, but for the consistently good.

Cadas

20th June 2021, 04:22 PM

Found the escape tunnel out of Victoria.

Although I’ve been in geelong for weeks, they finally conceded that it was a bit unfair to designate Tullamarine as hot spot. SA Gov. permitted travel home to Adelaide via the airport, but how you got there became an issue when landing into Adelaide. As I drove solo in a hire car, I was let in, for one of my fellow passengers in an Uber…. 14 days quarantine.

Anyhow, reunited with Sid and his pile of parts.

The landrover door seals went in perfectly, https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210620/8b57c6810432a865e129e759272dd2c5.jpg
No hassle, holes lined up, door shuts. There’s a bit of adjustment to do when they bed in, but these are miles away from the BritPart ones. The rubber is much softer and thinner.

Sills are fitted, new brackets arrived.

Pick up number plates tomorrow.

Still no sign of the hood.

Cadas

21st June 2021, 05:00 PM

Picked up Sid’s number plates today, but they are too wide to fit on the rear end quarters. I don’t think SA has a square option so bit stuck.

What do others do on the rear number plates?

1950landy

21st June 2021, 09:20 PM

This is what I did , I made up an angled piece same as the ones they use on Defenders I found it stopped people walking into the plate & bending it & ripping there cloths 171723171724 171729
Then last year I took the PPQ plates off my 1984 BMW , that were on the car when I bought it & changed the colour from dark blue & white to black & white171725 & transferred them to my 80". To buy these plates they are quite expensive but seeing as I had them & they had reference to the model BMW it is I could not see the point in leaving them on it. Mind you Qld Transport dose not miss you when changing the colour & swapping from one vehicle to another.171728

JDNSW

22nd June 2021, 08:20 AM

Picked up Sid’s number plates today, but they are too wide to fit on the rear end quarters. I don’t think SA has a square option so bit stuck.

What do others do on the rear number plates?

The standard for all Australian built Series Landrovers was a numberplate bracket rivetted to the centre rib on the tailgate, with an attached light, the lead going between the crossmember and rear rail of the tub. (best picture I could find quickly!) The bracket is hinged so it is visible when the tailgate is down.

171730

agmatthews

23rd June 2021, 05:34 PM

The standard for all Australian built Series Landrovers was a numberplate bracket rivetted to the centre rib on the tailgate, with an attached light, the lead going between the crossmember and rear rail of the tub. (best picture I could find quickly!) The bracket is hinged so it is visible when the tailgate is down.

171730
Here’s an even better picture.
171773

Cadas

27th June 2021, 01:49 PM

Back home again this weekend and finished the steering wheel.

Taken a bit of time this one, it started out like this
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210627/dcde3f3493d357a93f32bb82cb2fd248.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210627/8e1a5c8c67f48da3d73657a66511bc16.jpg
I was able to get it in the cabinet to bead blast the cracks to clean the muck out. The rest got a deep scrub with soapy water.

Then epoxy resins.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210627/2254708a2da61b79fe8289d63f300b8e.jpg
Forming dams with masking tape holds the shape, as the resin sets up in a few minutes it’s fine. Make sure air is not trapped.

Step one donehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210627/1b83ce9248ba1faf32f046ffc3e5bb7b.jpg
Then it’s just bodywork, body filler, sanding, then epoxy primer to seal, filler primer and then 4 coats of deep black high gloss 2 pack.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210627/4020a8c5a4e538228bfe91db43284eea.jpg
Had to buy a new horn ring (new old stock from Uk) all works perfectly.

Johnno1969

1st July 2021, 06:06 PM

What do others do on the rear number plates?

The inboard edge of mine is bent in slightly and tucks in behind the non-standard pinchweld which makes up my rear tailgate seal. Nice and snug. The outboard end lines up flush with the bodywork.

John

JDNSW

2nd July 2021, 07:29 AM

The inboard edge of mine is bent in slightly and tucks in behind the non-standard pinchweld which makes up my rear tailgate seal. Nice and snug. The outboard end lines up flush with the bodywork.

John

Similar on mine - the LH edge of the plate is just under the edge of the tailgate.

Cadas

2nd July 2021, 07:39 AM

gromit

2nd July 2021, 07:52 AM

Thanks, I was thinking the same as I don’t like the tailgate option

I do have to go into the licensing office in a couple of weeks, and I’m going to enquire about the square plates I’ve seen on dinner cars.

The online guide suggests I can’t have my current number on a square plate, but worth a discussion. If not, bending is next.

The Defender, as standard, has a folded piece of aluminium riveted in place to create enough width for the rego plate.
My father-in-law mentioned cutting down a rego plate years ago for his 80", trimmed 1/8" or so between each letter/number and riveted the pieces to a piece of aluminium to hold it all together. Police/VicRoads wouldn't have been impressed....

My Series I has a home made hinged mount on the tailgate.
I had to modify it to include a light.

https://live.staticflickr.com/1724/41502720655_e56860865c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26eshVe)DSCF3624 (https://flic.kr/p/26eshVe) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

Cadas

2nd July 2021, 07:58 AM

I was thinking of cutting it down because they left a huge gap in the middle

Downside is that it would be a
‘Sout Tralian’ plate and I reckon someone would notice.

1950landy

2nd July 2021, 08:33 AM

I was thinking of cutting it down because they left a huge gap in the middle

Downside is that it would be a
‘Sout Tralian’ plate and I reckon someone would notice.

I don't know about Vic but in Qld you are not allowed to cut the plates down , not even allowed to drill extra holes in them which you need to do to match the securing holes in some of the older cars. 171940 I made one of the Defender ones for my 80" before I fitted the PPQ plates . If you decide to go down this path you can have the one I made . I only riveted it at the back didn't want to put any holes in side panel . I stuck a wear pad on the bracket so as not to damage the paint.

Cadas

2nd July 2021, 08:41 AM

The alternative is that I have the original 1960’s hand painted plate that I am assured by Registry office is still legal although it has definitely seen better days.

Cadas

17th July 2021, 04:10 PM

Couple of days back in Adelaide before heading back into lockdown in geelong.

Tow bar now fitted. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210717/3be371bd51da3ada5c9f1f601e70a3a5.jpg

Then a bit of metalwork, needed some clasps for the storage boxes in the tub. I’d tried to modify some shed clasps from Bunnings, but hardened steel, so has to make a new mild steel set.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210717/18d1979d58d1ef8ba643dcab358c249d.jpg

Finished clasp.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210717/3148a6004fa0740e9f823b24f5bd5314.jpg
Couple more to do.

Cadas

3rd August 2021, 10:55 AM

Number plates problem solved!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210803/b2d0ac59ddcdfaaa12045f8cb8300b2c.jpg

Can’t fit them though as I’m still stuck in Geelong!!!!

Cadas

28th August 2021, 05:39 PM

Still in geelong, one day I’ll get home to finish Sid.

Update on the hood. It’s not good.

Red Earth Valley hoods who I ordered mine off, and paid in full 5 months ago still hasn’t delivered.

Unfortunately, it seems he went under months ago, his ABN was canceled since time ago. Sadly he is still taking money off people guaranteeing 4 weeks delivery.

I’m pursuing though QLD consumer affairs and likely the police, but don’t hold out any hope other than to stop others getting ripped off.

I’ve since ordered another hood from the UK but not likely to see that until Christmas. Fortunately they only take a holding deposit.