Rebuilding Sid

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190526/a61722a3e01ae6c08975bc863e06c54c.jpg

We’ve had the new project ‘Sid’ for a couple of months now, but not been able to get going on him until this weekend. Seems the kids bathroom was deemed ‘more important’

The plan for Sid will be a full restoration. But as he was a complete non-runner, I’m keen to get him driving around so I can see how good/ bad the mechanicals are.

So far (between tiling) all I’ve been able to do is get the engine running, do a service and clean up the carb. Today, though, the bathroom is done and I’ve been allowed back into the garage.

First job is replacing the brakes. Meet my new favourite tools

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Back drums

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Took heat to get this drum off, that’s a first. Nothing leaking though. Hub dust cap is full of fluid, bright red, wasn’t expecting that.

Front drums a complete pig to remove.

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Home made drum puller. Takes about 10 minutes to set up trying to do two screw clamps while holding the bar with your knees.. get it tight and give it a whack. Warning though, you only get one hit... cos it all crashes to the floor.

This drum was full of fluid. Work has stopped though... seems the parts supplier who took four weeks to send me the bits from the UK thought it would be really nice to only send half the nuts needed for the cylinders. And only one brake pipe, not the traditional two.

Bless them .......

Questions I have; I need new drums... any recommendations? back drums look like SWB drums with only one set screw, front has three. Are they interchangeable or have I got a different set of hubs.

There’s a mounting plate for something above the axel, ext to bump stop, any ideas

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190526/9855a8d3bc870b1d91dd44bc25a91ea4.jpg

[bemm52]

Gday mate
holes through chassis in your last picture are for the axle check strap

goes from one set of holes, under axle and then to next set of holes on opposite sides of chassis

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

That would have to be the cruddiest brake drum I’ve ever seen!



Good luck with it, and have fun. Now I want a full build thread, down to microscopic detail, and lots, lots of pics!

Re new drums: they are available, you can get them from the usual UK suppliers, they are heavy and freight will be high, or you can get them from your local “Better Brakes”. Check the price though, you might find they are no cheaper than the UK ones, even including freight.

Clean up your old ones and take them to a brake shop, they might stand another hone, and there are such things as oversized shoes that are a bit thicker than the standard. That will save you some bucks.

[JDNSW]

The drums look correct from the pictures (But not always easy to see sizes in pictures) - easy to check they are lwb vs swb - diameter of the braking surface is 11" vs 10".

Number of setscrew holes seems to vary, not a difference between models. There should be one hole that is tapped not countersunk. A 3/8W?" bolt screwed into it will ease the drum off, although you may need a helping hand with a hammer - it tilts the drum, so give it a good belt either with a rubber hammer or with a wood cushion outside the hole the bolt is in.

[Chops]

Ohh awesome, another rebuild thread [biggrin][thumbsupbig]
Welcome aboard.



I just bought a full set of brake shoes and the snails for my little girl a couple of weeks ago from a place in Melbourne (around the corner from where I live/lived), but I can't remember what I paid,, not much though I think. When I find my associated paperwork, it's got the price of drums on it too. I'll check it when I get a chance.

[Cadas]

Cheers... it’s going to be a fun project.

Looking again at drums and pictures they are likely correct, all 11”. Front drums can be refurbished I think, the fluid leaks have sent steel black, but the drums are smooth.

Back brakes have clearly not worked for a long time. Scale rust on inside, cleaned it up for the test runs but the pitting is terrible.

Ordered missing parts for the ‘new brakes’, while they make there way here I’ll be changing over the various master cylinders and pipes.

[1950landy]

If you screw a bolt into the threaded hole in the brake drum then give the drum a hit with a hammer after backing the brake adjusters off it should release with the help of WD40. You should not need any pullers.

[Cadas]

If you screw a bolt into the threaded hole in the brake drum then give the drum a hit with a hammer after backing the brake adjusters off it should release with the help of WD40. You should not need any pullers.

I didn’t have any 3/8 bolts unfortunately..... I do now for the other side when the missing parts arrive. I’m experimenting and have ordered from an Australian site. Hopefully it comes quicker than the UK delivery would have. We’ll see, brake pads I ordered for my other car took 20 days from Sydney.

[Cadas]

Got lucky today and got more done.

I had a day off work (yay!) but it was our wedding anniversary (er...yay!) but unfortunately Mrs Cadas and I weren’t aligned on what would be an ideal way to celebrate... nothing says ‘I love you’ like handing your loved one spanners while they are under a car.

But I should have had more faith in my lovely wife.... after brunch by the beach I was sent to the garage for the afternoon. (Yay!)

Today’s challenge was the master cylinders. They would be fun at the best of times but someone had used strange bolts that required a 19/32 spanner... or to be more accurate two of them. And they were nylock nuts so they took a couple of hours to undo working up through the hole in the bulkhead.

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Found one problem with the clutch...

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Brake cylinder was different, pic doesn’t show clearly but this was twice the diameter of the clutch cylinder and did not look like it comes apart very easily.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190527/90418262a0f58c30f4b9a50ba90e256f.jpg

Still... good outcome. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190527/78dcf8705c24ee17e01a55efa1e12572.jpg

Rest of the afternoon was spent remaking brake pipes from the kit I’d bought. All of the pipes seem to be too long. Not a problem on the long pipes, but the short pipes are 8-10 inches too long. So making them fit properly, cutting and re-flaring.

[Aaron IIA]

I find it easier to take the whole pedal box out, and then remove the master cylinder on the bench.

Are you sure that it is 19/32AF? Could it be 5/16BSW / 3/8BSF?

Aaron

[JDNSW]

The clutch master cylinder is 3/4" but the brake master cylinder for the 109 is 1" (88 is 3/4"), so the clutch and brake master cylinders should be different. Note that there are two types of brake master cylinders fitted, referred to as CB and CV. They are interchangeable, except the pipes going into them need to be slightly different.

And note that a large proportion of bolt heads and nuts in 1958 Landrovers have BSW hexagons, and you really need to have Whitorth spanners to avoid damaging them. The change to Unified sizes started with this model, but was a long way from complete (still incomplete at the end of S3 production!). There would have been zero metric fasteners when it left the factory, but it would be surprising if it doesn't have a few by now. Many small screws such as the ones at the top of the instrument panel and the ones holding the speedo cable to the transfer case are BA.

[Cadas]

Thanks, that’s interesting. So does that mean the new cylinder is incorrect being the same size as the clutch cylinder? Or do modrn parts do the job?

[JDNSW]

It is incorrect. The part you have fitted looks correct for the 88, but the 109 master cylinder has to feed six wheel cylinders not four, so it needs to move more fluid.

Doesn't matter whether it is modern or not, you still need the larger cylinder. With that one you will find it impossible to get the brakes working on a 109 (or a 88 fitted with 109 front brakes!).

[Cadas]

Thank you, correct part on order.

Ordering parts has been a learning curve so far.

Not just the random nature of what arrives and when, but the need to dig deeper before ordering. This cylinder was bought from a UK site and denoted as suitable for a LWB 2a. Having not rebuilt a LR before I'd been relying on the parts suppliers to help in selection. Lesson learnt.

Frustrating. But at least I've had practice fitting one.

[JDNSW]

As someone commented above - I find it easier to remove the whole pedal assembly, and do it on the bench.

[cjc_td5]

Don't be scared to source stuff from a local brake shop. Most parts are generic enough to be available locally. Brake wheel cylinders etc are available off the shelf sometimes. The clutch master cylinder is the same as used on trailers and my local shop had a dozen of them on the shelf.

[Cadas]

Had a few hours spare today to play.

Plan was to refurbish the rear left drum and replace the clutch slave cylinder. The drum was worst yet, but straightforward

Still waiting on parts to finish the master cylinders and front left drum, been over a week and the orders remain ‘in processing’.... what do they do for a week with orders? Are they just ignoring or is there some process involving competitive origami with my order sheet.

Any how, clutch slave cylinder. Heeding earlier advice, I decided not to attempt to remove the cylinder ‘in situ’ as it were, but to start stripping panels to get easier access.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190601/5c30b989bd061c4d1269e116e30fa3b5.jpg

Nice satisfying job, all came out nicely, one floor to replace but the rest is in good condition.

Only rust I can find on bulkhead

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Access was great to slave cylinder. Now I’m new to land rovers, but after careful reading of the Haynes manual, I’m pretty sure this isn’t right,.......

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190601/a4a29e3ec31d75bf0956ad3582c75faa.jpg

The push rod is bent through 90degrees.

More parts to order, I’m assuming these things are some sort of gold alloy or use rare earths given the price of them. Any other suggestions?

[JDNSW]

Definitely not right!

It is so long since I bought any slave cylinder bits I can't remember their cost. I wonder how the pushrod got bent like that? While you are at it, check that the coupling between the bellcrank shaft (the bit the slave cylinder turns) and the clutch release shaft is not broken. This coupling consists of a short piece of pipe about 50mm long, and two pins, held with split pins. This failing may have resulted in excessive movement of the slave cylinder piston and resulted in the bend.

The three coupling parts, the pipe and the two pins, are hardened, and any makeshift replacement such as a bolt is going to be shortlived.

And it is possible to replace both pins without separating the bell housing from the engine!

[Aaron IIA]

Make a new pushrod out of a high tensile bolt. If you don't have access to lathe, put it in a drill and shape the head with a file.

I have made pins using grade 12 high tensile bolts. These seem to be lasting.

Aaron

[Cadas]

Thanks.

Was wondering if I could make one. Given I’m only trying to get Sid moving so I can test the gearbox, it would only be for short term use.

I was eyeing off the brake cylinder push rod. Problem is I don’t know what the length needs to be. I had to cut the bent one to get it out as it passed through the hole in the slave bracket.

[Aaron IIA]

I have a home made pushrod connecting my brake master cylinder. It has been there for over 10 years, with over half of that being as a daily drive. The original bent when an attempt at a steep offroad track failed and we needed lots of brakes in reverse. I suspect that my replacement is stronger than the original. You could even get a grade 12 socket head bolt if you wanted it even stronger than grade 8. Remember that metric class 8.8 is roughly equivalent to imperial grade 5.

Aaron

[Cadas]

Bitten the bullet and ordered a new clutch slave push rod, by my reckoning it’s about $18 per inch....

I was going to make one, but looking at the bent one it was clear that this was home made from a bolt. Better safe than sorry.

Things are progressing, sparky finished installing 3 phase in the garage today so can finally rig up a big compressor to run a sand blaster. That should move things along.

[Cadas]

Not much progress on Sid during the week, some waiting on parts (shout out to British auto parts for overnighting stuff)

A lot of time has been spent admiring the most expensive piece of threaded bar I’ve ever owned, I’ve shown it to the kids and neighbours...... it’s even gold coloured, which feels appropriate.

Rest of the week has been spent cleaning bits and plumbing in the new toy

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190606/27201b287183a2ec7bc2ceed5ec83835.jpg

That should help.

Plan is to get the hydraulics finished over the weekend and all being well, get Sid moving under his own steam.

Question though, I have the original twin outlet brake/clutch reservoir which the previous owner(s) had removed and tie wrapped to the dash. They also replaced the lines with rubber hose so I can’t tell which way around does the reservoir goes? Does the small compartment go to the clutch or brake...

Thanks

[Aaron IIA]

The smaller centre reservoir connects to the clutch via the bottom. Years ago, mine developed leaks where the glands screw into the reservoir. I sealed them up by putting o-rings underneath them. I contemplated soft soldering them in, but the oxy set that I had at the time was a bit too fierce.

Aaron

[JDNSW]

Yes the centre is clutch - if you think about it for a moment, it makes sense to have the larger reservoir connected to the brakes - it feeds four or six slave cylinders, and the clutch only one.

[Cadas]

Yes the centre is clutch - if you think about it for a moment, it makes sense to have the larger reservoir connected to the brakes - it feeds four or six slave cylinders, and the clutch only one.

Hi, yes that was my guess, but wanted to be 100%. The tank I have has the two bottom outlets. It's cleaned up nicely and doesn't leak. I have now found the correct mounting bracket for it to go on the clutch pedal box as well.

[Aaron IIA]

Two bottom outlets is a bit strange. Every reservoir that I have seen has one outlet on the bottom and one outlet on the side.

Aaron

[B.S.F.]

Two bottom outlets is a bit strange. Every reservoir that I have seen has one outlet on the bottom and one outlet on the side.

Aaron
Early S2 L/Rs had a reservoir with both outlets at the bottom. Part no.504135
.W.

[Cadas]

Subscription sorted, reckoned I'd already had my moneys worth with the tip about removing the brake pedal box! As advised, removing the box took a fraction of the time than trying to replace the cylinder in situ..... would have been quicker if I'd realized they were captive nuts... WD40 was having no effect for a while.

Much progress has been made, and much damage has been done to left thumb with hammer, the first of many I am sure.

All wheels now sorted with new brakes on each corner, slave cylinder in place (please admire the push rod).

151801

All connected up top
151802

Then the fun began, clutch went easy enough but the brakes are still putting up a fight and I cannot get fluid through, there's an air leak somewhere, probably in the centre section which I didn't replace given I'll be taking the car apart in a few weeks. One more go next weekend before I give up and start to strip the body. Would still prefer to test the drive train though before disassembly and preferably with brakes as I live on a steep hill.


151802

Another question if anyone can shed light on this; On removing the build plate which was mounted on the bulkhead (low down above tunnel) someone has drilled a lot of holes. This aligns with two threaded fixing holes on the block....any ideas what would have been fitted here?

151803

[67hardtop]

Did you bleed all the air out of the master cyl on the bench first? You need to do that first then adjust all the brakes up till they are just dragging then bleed brakes starting from lhr, rhr, lhf, rhf. Its really easy. I dont know why so many ppl on here have so many dramas with bleeding brakes.

Oh and regards to the holes behind the plate, my s2a was butchered this way as well to replace the water plug on the back of the engine. The plate covered up the butchery.

Cheers Rod

[Chops]

Did you bleed all the air out of the master cyl on the bench first? You need to do that first then adjust all the brakes up till they are just dragging then bleed brakes starting from lhr, rhr, lhf, rhf. Its really easy. I dont know why so many ppl on here have so many dramas with bleeding brakes.

Oh and regards to the holes behind the plate, my s2a was butchered this way as well to replace the water plug on the back of the engine. The plate covered up the butchery.

Cheers Rod


Have I missed something here? I'm not sure I understand this exactly Rod. I didn't think I did anything special when I did mine whilst it was out of the car.
Having said/asked this,, maybe I would have much better brakes now if I had [bighmmm]
The only thing I have wrong with mine as such is the snails rotate on they're own,, :bat:,, but I've got new ones to put in now [thumbsupbig]

[67hardtop]

That will stuff ur day up then, turning snails.

It only takes a tiny bit of air in the system to give you spongy brakes. If the master cyl has been off it should be bled in a level position to get all the air out of it. Then u fit it. Then u fill the res up and pump fluid through to the rest of the system. But before u bleed the brakes they need to be adjusted up tightish. So u will need to fix thd snails first. If the serations are worn away u can file them a bit deeper. If its not working u can replace the snails but its a big PITA.

[gromit]

That will stuff ur day up then, turning snails.

It only takes a tiny bit of air in the system to give you spongy brakes. If the master cyl has been off it should be bled in a level position to get all the air out of it. Then u fit it. Then u fill the res up and pump fluid through to the rest of the system. But before u bleed the brakes they need to be adjusted up tightish. So u will need to fix thd snails first. If the serations are worn away u can file them a bit deeper. If its not working u can replace the snails but its a big PITA.

The problem is that aftermarket snails are made of a substance that's about as hard as cheese. Filing or using a Dremel to get the cutouts deeper on the original snails might be a better option.

As for bleeding....I've always just topped up the master cylinder and bled. No pre-filling etc.
The only vehicle that was an issue was the Series I and one of the many tricks (I now know) is when installing the piston in the master cylinder make sure one of the tiny holes is at the top (stops air getting trapped). We tried a couple of tricks 1. Pump up the pressure in the brake system before opening the bleed nipple (can be messy). 2. open the nipple and jump on the brake pedal. Both these options seem to surprise the air bubbles and they come out of the system.


Colin

[Cadas]

Did you bleed all the air out of the master cyl on the bench first? You need to do that first then adjust all the brakes up till they are just dragging then bleed brakes starting from lhr, rhr, lhf, rhf. Its really easy. I dont know why so many ppl on here have so many dramas with bleeding brakes.

Oh and regards to the holes behind the plate, my s2a was butchered this way as well to replace the water plug on the back of the engine. The plate covered up the butchery.

Cheers Rod

Water plug.... that makes sense.

Yes bench bled system, etc. but obvious that there’s an air leak somewhere in the system as it won’t pressure up. Tried a vacuum line and wouldn’t hold a vacuum.

Took off the old pipes last night and couldn’t see anything but out of curiosity I took off a couple of the new lines I’d bought. They don’t seem to be bedding properly. These had a bubble flare that doesn’t seem to be working properly. Took all new lines off and found several that aren’t seating. Will sit and reflare them all tonight..... so much for new pipes making it easy.

[67hardtop]

They sometimes need a gentle twist as u tighten them to make them seat properly but it one of those "feel" jobs. You have to have a sortof feel for it as you gently tighten the pipe up you sort of "lap" the pipe in to seat it. Undo it turn it a little bit, then do it up again, repeat a couple times then tighten and test. At least thats how ive done mine, tho i am a mechanic and ive done it lots of times over the decades. Those bubble fittings are the worst with new pipes. They seldom need re-doing unless there is damage.
Cheers

[Cadas]

They sometimes need a gentle twist as u tighten them to make them seat properly but it one of those "feel" jobs. You have to have a sortof feel for it as you gently tighten the pipe up you sort of "lap" the pipe in to seat it. Undo it turn it a little bit, then do it up again, repeat a couple times then tighten and test. At least thats how ive done mine, tho i am a mechanic and ive done it lots of times over the decades. Those bubble fittings are the worst with new pipes. They seldom need re-doing unless there is damage.
Cheers

thanks for that, I had a play with some old pipe and fittings in the garage and understand what you mean. Got better seating. I also realised there was a fair amount of user error. I have never used steel pipe before. on the previous cars I have restored in Europe, I only ever used copper or copper nickel. I was taught then to just 'nip up' the brake lines and not over tighten. I don't think I have been doing the steel lines up tight enough.... [bighmmm] practising on the bench has given me a better idea.....thanks everyone.
Paul

[67hardtop]

Yeah gotta be tight. Not snap off tight but tight

[Cadas]

Well plans have changed and with us moving on to the next phase.

After a second weekend attempting to bleed the brakes I've given up. Cannot get brake fluid past the master cylinder without having a vacuum line attached. No idea! Wondering if the cylinder is faulty, correct, etc.

As the plan was just too get it moving to test the gearbox, I've decided to move on so Sid will begin getting dismantled today for a chassis up rebuild.

On the upside, went parts hunting yesterday and collected a new immaculate rear axle and seat box.

Also found a chap in Adelaide with 6 or 7 S2's and 3's in various stages of disassembly, he seems to be wrecking then all for mechanicals but has the bodies and chassis. Several perfect chassis and bulkheads for sale. He knows what they are worth though.

[Cadas]

Pleasant afternoon working outside. Adelaide weather is glorious today.

Rear tub and cab now separated. Easier than I had feared, nothing needed grinding off. Not sure if stock, but the bolts to the outriggers behind the seats had been converted to captive nuts by welding two nuts to a 4” strip of steel. Neat.

Couple of bolts were stuck but old fashioned method of using a long breaker bar to tighten them up rather than undoing them and they snapped off easily.

[JDNSW]

Pleasant afternoon working outside. Adelaide weather is glorious today.

Rear tub and cab now separated. Easier than I had feared, nothing needed grinding off. Not sure if stock, but the bolts to the outriggers behind the seats had been converted to captive nuts by welding two nuts to a 4” strip of steel. Neat.

Couple of bolts were stuck but old fashioned method of using a long breaker bar to tighten them up rather than undoing them and they snapped off easily.

Standard

[Cadas]

Strip down well underway
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/f076b08bd5714f09acf4c3f57a80cda1.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/212056e0be108e7be6436e520186a109.jpg

Only rough bit on the chassis, repairable, but there’s some bump damage on the left hand side so may just replace the cross member. I know where one is hiding in a garage not far from here

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/9960ff5ae295d0c351f7576157252431.jpg

Old axle, have a replacement in perfect condition to swap out. Still think the back end of this landy sat in water.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/e67cd0649145515009ccb9f813dc8be2.jpg

Snug!!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/af1396497ffa335d9c7a93857117ffd5.jpg

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/621d37a6c5ef4e24f45216d5f9905dbc.jpg

New(ish) axle ready for strip down and new parts finally arrived today from ‘addocks so plenty to keep me busy in the evenings.

Strip down is progressing slowly, plan is to at least clean, sand blast and prime or refurbish every thing as it comes off so the pile of parts on the shelves look shiny and encouraging rather than rusty and a sign of work to do.

So far the plan has gone as far as the seat box and all of the various runners and fixings. All stripped, awaiting final sand and prime.

Other success today that may be of interest to others on here. I’ve been searching around for welding gases, trying to find the best deal. I’d opened a cash account at BOC in order to check prices..... and then walked away.

Had a call from the sales team today with an offer. A D cylinder of argon or any of the mig gases for $108 per year, no deposit and a free refill, plus a trade (I’m not trade) account giving 25% off consumables

About the deal I’ve seen in a long while.

[gromit]

Had a call from the sales team today with an offer. A D cylinder of argon or any of the mig gases for $108 per year, no deposit and a free refill, plus a trade (I’m not trade) account giving 25% off consumables

.

BOC are trying to compete with the 'buy your own bottle' competitors.

As you stated $108 inc GST for shield gasses and acetylene.
Oxygen $79 inc GST

One year rental D size bottles and one free refill (so two fills the first year). I guess if you continue the rental you only get one refill each year after (so cancel and start again a few weeks later....?).
25% off consumables is handy !

Colin

[67hardtop]

I bought my argoshield bottle from total tools and have refilled it once in 5 years. The rental alone was costing me $179 per year for an e bottle from boc and i hardly used it. No brainer for me. Refill is/ was $79. Cost was $300+ for the bottle from memory. Sitll saving money.

[Homestar]

I think rental make sense if you use around 2 fills per year or more, but below that, just burns a hole in your wallet slowly IMO. I have an E size, Argon and E size Mig mix, so would cost me close to $400 a year to rent - each bottle was around $400 I think, so based on 1 fill or less per year, I'll be ahead in a couple of years. I'll be getting Oxygen and Acetylene too soon, so all of that would cost me a fortune to rent for the amount I use them.

[Cadas]

For me the argon makes sense in the rental as I have only a small amount of aluminium to weld so having a bottle over a year for $100 is ideal.

Beyond that I suspect my welding will be steel on a fairly infrequent basis so for that I'll probably end up buying an E.

[Cadas]

This Land Rover thing....

It's a slippery slope isn't it........

[Cadas]

Diff strip down underway on the ‘new’ axle.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190628/26748dd6c89dfacc6dda692d04f7ab37.jpg

Axle shafts very different, long shaft looks rough as.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190628/b269ba087e784e10c1f379a763d03dfb.jpg

Final drive seems good, very smooth and backlash feels spot on.
Seals leaking but not terrible and I have all of those.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190628/79475ceadf7654e661df4db977d5a81b.jpg

But then I found this lot in the case

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190628/5e93b831daade5c180c9691cdd5e3548.jpg

They are big chunks. The big bit looks like rough casting, but the rest look rather like bearing pins, long and hollow. Guess that means I’m going further.

[bemm52]

I kind of think Series Land Rover dismantling is a bit like archaeology/detective work

I had machined metal bits loose in my gearbox and stuck in drain plug ....tracked it down to very damaged lay shaft.

Good luck with the hunt its all learning

Cheers Paul

[Cadas]

Busy day.

First up, diff investigation. Started strip down, smell of burnt grease and found what is probably the source of the bits

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190629/33ec1ec816d04ca802841df39c2e9974.jpg

So, more bearings to get. Fortunately, the teeth throughout are perfect, so gears are still good.

Then some fun, spent today in the dreadful rain pulling this out of a field.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190629/e3d33f52e903aaaa9a6513bdcaf3c04d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190629/a4891b2cd7239e41bb1a10d46204f057.jpg

Bought for the body really, assumed the chassis and gearbox were toast having been in a ditch for a decade or more. Body is straight and the rear tub hasn’t been battered, almost new! Owner said it was a 1960, but chassis is a 252 C suffix so think it’s a 1966

Got it home, and chassis is not bad, rear crossmember shot, and a bit ratty around the tips of the front chassis but rest is only surface rust. May look to sell on. Original 2.25 engine and gearbox, not seized so with look to see which engine is in better condition.

[67hardtop]

I looked at that. Home made roof. Firewall shagged. Wasp nests in the head ports. Original carby tho. Solex. No exhaust manifold. I was thinking about getting it for the tub but the one ive got is better. I couldnt really justify the asking price for what i thought it was worth. Good for parts tho i thought. Good on ya. [emoji106]

[Cadas]

Is there a way to differentiate between the suffix A and suffix B rear axles?

[67hardtop]

Not that i know of. They are mostly all the same as far as i know.

[67hardtop]

I know there were differences in front axles. The swivel pins were different but due to them being assembled in Aust the cut off points were very blurred so to speak

[JDNSW]

Is there a way to differentiate between the suffix A and suffix B rear axles?

The simple answer is to look at the number stamped on the axle (if you can find it).

Looking at the parts book, although it distinguishes the change by vehicle suffix not axle suffix, it seems that there are differences, although it is likely not all happened at the same time. These include the change from BSF to UNF for the spcial bolts mounting the differential to the axle housing (and probably elsewhere as well), and changes to the arrangements for preload on the pinion bearings.

However, it will be hard to see the difference between the two axles and they are fully interchangeable, although some of the parts may not be.

The only major change was for vehicle suffix H which went to the Series 3 axle. Note that for 109 Series 2a the salisbury axle was an option from about suffix F. Also note that 88 and 109 axles are not interchangeable - the 88 springs are under the chassis, the 109 springs are next to it!

And add the usual rider - your 2a is around 50-60 years old, and unless you have documented history, you never know whether the axle assembly (or anything else) is what it had when it left the factory!

[Cadas]

Found it....
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190630/90d25debd7c727cf1e4a7833763b1410.jpg

And on the original axle as well, but the rust made this tricky. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190630/12ed57ce540b55f7bb324f36aa953f37.jpg

The punching on both axles is pretty light.... not obvious.

In trying to buy new bearing sets, all the suppliers seem to offer a ‘suffix A’ or ‘suffix B’ option. This change occurred in 1964 it seems ( but I assumed these new axles wouldn’t make it over here for a few more years)

But, there must be a difference as Type A bearings are 3x the price of type B.

[Cadas]

Today work progressed on the chassis. Pushed Sid outside and went all over the back end with a wire wheel before finishing the nooks and crannies with a sand blaster.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190630/09a42f594c1ecf6b9f39038fd2ff220c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190630/cfc3b3797fc4e8d6bf839a97a6018f02.jpg

Worked really well and he’s ready for a coat of converter and primer.

Back axle and springs have now been cut off ready for removal. I was going to refurb the springs, but wondering if it’s worth it. Wife is keen to use the spare tub for a trailer, so old springs could go on that.

The spare landy has had the springs modified, removing 5 leafs so it’s scraping the floor at the back.

The spare has cleaned up well, chuffed. Body great, chassis about 80%. Original air filter and carb are a bonus as is the seat box and floors. Even found the original starter handle.

[JDNSW]

.......

But, there must be a difference as Type A bearings are 3x the price of type B.

Interesting- according to my parts book the wheel bearings remained the same throughout S2a production. But they did change during late S3 production, and the older ones are more expensive. I wonder if they are confusing S3 and S2a.

Swivel bearings changed in early S2a production, but no changeover date is quoted. The early cone bearings are best replaced with the later railko bushes, but it is not a simple change.

[Cadas]

Interesting- according to my parts book the wheel bearings remained the same throughout S2a production. But they did change during late S3 production, and the older ones are more expensive. I wonder if they are confusing S3 and S2a.

Swivel bearings changed in early S2a production, but no changeover date is quoted. The early cone bearings are best replaced with the later railko bushes, but it is not a simple change.

I thought the same, the original parts manual doesn't show a difference, only referring to part 219550. That though rarely comes up on sites. But in searching all of the major parts sites, Ashcrofts, British Auto, Craddocks, Paddocks, Bearmach, etc..... all state that the cheaper bearing is 1965 on or 'suffix B' axles. It affects both the inner and outer pinion bearings and the cost difference for each is about 3x.

Can't find any information on why or what the material difference is. Only thing that perhaps comes to mind is the position of the oil seal but that would only affect the outer bearing.

Thought process today is to leave the pinion bearings well alone and just replace the carrier bearings (as these are the only ones with damage). the pinion bearings are unmarked and running smooth and there's no play or run out when in place. I have a grand total of 5 differentials in my possession so I can take time to refurbish another while this one is on the car.

Interesting, digging into this first diff, the unit has been rebuilt before. I can't find the source of the large cast lump of metal, but markings on the inside of the case suggest something came loose so I think it might be leftover from that event. The carrier bearing that has failed I think is one of the replacement parts as it's a Timken.

[JDNSW]

On the subject of wheel bearings, thinking about it, I don't think I have ever had to replace a wheel bearing on a Series Landrover (except a semifloating one on the S1 I used to own). My experience is they are very long lasting if correctly adjusted and you don't try to lubricate them with mud.

[Aaron IIA]

Only wheel bearings that I have replaced on a Series were when water had got in past failed original leather style seals. Large slow turning bearings running in oil tend to last a long time.

Aaron

[Cadas]

Only wheel bearings that I have replaced on a Series were when water had got in past failed original leather style seals. Large slow turning bearings running in oil tend to last a long time.

Aaron

Oh dear..... you had probably best order a set of bearings now... you know what's going to happen now you said that.

[Aaron IIA]

I got rid of the leather seals years ago. I also don't play in creeks much any more.

Aaron

[gromit]

Remembered this thread from a few years ago regarding wheel bearings.
Series III wheel bearings (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/121478-series-iii-wheel-bearings.html)

The later ones are the same as the Defender and even Timken bearings are relatively cheap.
Name brand early bearings are very expensive.
The aftermarket ones are no-name brand probably produced in India. I fitted one set to my Series I and drove to Cooma & back 11 years ago, still doing OK but not exactly a high mileage vehicle.....

$21 plus freight from the UK for a no-name brand kit.
Wheel Hub Bearing Kit - Front & Rear - Series 2 and 3 - Paddock Spares (https://au.paddockspares.com/rtc3534-hub-bearing-kit.html)


Colin

[Cadas]

Hi,

Does anyone know where you buy locking wire from these days? I know Loctite is more widely used, but for my diff rebuild it has to be wire to hold the locking tabs.

None of the fastening companies I use stock it any more.

Cheers
Paul

[JDNSW]

If you have an airport nearby try any aviation supplier or licenced engineer.

[1950landy]

Have you tried Repco or one of the bearing Co's
We use SS tie wire on the race car ,think we either got it from
Blackwoods

[Cadas]

got distracted with a side project while waiting for parts to arrive


152414

It was this or de-rust leaf springs. I'd been mooching around the tool shop looking at the budget options and not feeling very inspired, so for about half the price, a visit to the off-cuts bin at steel shop and a couple of hours work last night I have this little toy. Bit beefier than the offerings online...... happy bunny!

Sid himself is progressing, chassis to rear of bulkhead de-rusted and being primed this weekend and I even got the old bushes out of the chassis... that's a pleasurable pastime. Diff on hold waiting for new bearings.... and then there are the springs to do.

Diff has been an interesting journey, this unit has been fully rebuilt some time in the past, new Timken bearings all around. The wiring is very neat so someone knew what they were doing...sort of. It looks as though they left loose bits in the axle from whatever caused the first failure. Crown bearings didn't have enough play and cooked themselves and they did not replace the oil seal so the flange bearing is toast. Bottom inch is rusty. This can't have been a cheap job, I would not have been chuffed and it probably explains why the axle was part of a disassembled heap of land rover.

I have gotten to the bottom of the difference in the bearings pre and post 1964.

The earlier bearing is much larger, almost 4mm in diameter and 8mm in depth. The Timken equivalents are 3188 (pre-64) and 88046 (post). The later one goes all the way through the Series 3. The early bearing is a fairly rare part, even from Timken it is pricey, and I've only found a handful of places sell them. I guess they don't wear out very often. The early bearing are not only bigger, the load characteristics are way better, nearly 30% better bearing capacity.

[Cadas]

Today has been springs day.....

They started like this

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190706/0776160eecf08a0d015c5ff2bf7c0f37.jpg

Separating was done with a bench vice holding everything while the pin was cut off..... the bang still gets me each time.

Three step process to cleaning

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190706/bdb9b5ac7b0d3b69c74f6d8a22234116.jpg

First pass was done with a needle scaler to remove the lumps and leave the steel level.

Second pass with the roughest wire wheel for the grinder

Final pass with the soft carborundum grinder pad and quick wipe with rust converter to get into any pits that are left.

Won’t win any beauty contests but they look sound and serviceable and are a huge improvement.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190706/af8d459954e8a01b174b770e5770d0de.jpg

[Homestar]

You did a lot better than me - I pulled mine all apart, got the wire brush on the grinder, then threw them in the bin and bought new ones... 😇

[Cadas]

I was thinking the same about half an hour in....

[Cadas]

Springs are done and painted but I haven’t been able to reassemble yet. I had ordered new fittings but the new centre dowels came without nuts. Bunnings doesn’t stock BSF it appears....

So new nuts on order. I’ve started stocking up,on stainless steel nuts and bolts as I’ve decided to use these as much as I can to make life easier in the future.

So today has been hub building. These have been rebuilt before by the look of it, but as it’s likely to be the same muppets that did the diff I’ve started again.

Step one, clean everything
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190708/cd3ee2970ce7772e4b9f6ba781fc174f.jpg

Primed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190708/31da1ad31787a5e5f672f3bd86230e00.jpg

And finished. Sprayed and then baked in the oven to harden them up.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190708/97817b76ce6ab49766f7cce60c28c4ac.jpg

[ezyrama]

Looking good. The wife looked at me funnily on Saturday when I baked Ernies rear drums and axle flanges in the oven [biggrin]

[Cadas]

I thought I was the only one...

Axles going to be a bit tricky.

[JDNSW]

Are you familiar with how good a job of degreasing you can get in a dishwasher?

[mick88]

Are you familiar with how good a job of degreasing you can get in a dishwasher?

I agree John,
They do a great job.

Cheers, Mick.

[Cadas]

They do indeed, however,

I’ve been married long enough to know where the boundaries are....

[JohnboyLandy]

Dare I say using the wife's toothbrush to clean parts is probably not a good idea either [bigsmile][bigsmile][bigsmile][bigsmile]

[Cadas]

Wonder what this could be?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190709/efa28a77f5b53c1a2ba920c9956eb807.jpg

My postman is not such a happy individual since I bought a Land Rover.

[JDNSW]

Steel is heavy!

[Cadas]

More messy jobs while waiting for new bearing to arrive from Craddocks... getting used to this.

Fun stuff! This was the air filter off the second S2a pulled from the field... cleaned up nicely



152557
152558




managed to get the sand blast cabinet working as they do on the adverts...finally. I've remade the pick up tube out of copper pipe with 5x the number of holes in it, works much better.

Next challenge for this evening is making new lock washers for the u-bolts. they seem to be mild steel which makes it simple enough. Fiddly though.

152559

[Cadas]

Busy few days. First up the springs are now finished and ready for fitting. Boys have been helping all day which has made for a great day.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190713/d859bd1a8ac2d307f005ca99e1b29858.jpg

We’ve the embarked on the fun of fitting the chassis bushes, several hours later and several broken tools I’ve managed to get one half way in. Snapping threaded rod for fun.... given up, poly bushes have been ordered for the chassis.

So attention has moved to the front end.... with lads stripping the engine bay

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190713/cf10276ee56c9a22bc0862f45c277884.jpg

And taking out their first engine. Engine crane was a bargain find on gumtree, it’s a beast!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190713/d365b56d390bc9eca64603e9cef102a5.jpg

[Cadas]

Chassis number....some help would be appreciated.

I have some old SA rego papers for Sid and these don’t have a VIN or chassis number on them, it’s just marked N/A [emoji1787]

I have a plate inside the cab which marks it as a 65

With the front end stripped, I went hunting with a wire brush and found some numbers on the right front spring hanger

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190713/1a97dc2167caabe0d13b10e49b7ecac9.jpg

Only three are visible, photo not great but they are “166” , these don’t match the bulkhead number.

Any ideas?

[Homestar]

Looks more like 186? Still no help though sorry.

[67hardtop]

Just an assembly stamping. Ive seen a few over the years, usually on rhf spring hanger. Seen them on s2a and s3 same place. Not used for vehicle identification but internal numbering system in the assembly plants

[Cadas]

Just an assembly stamping. Ive seen a few over the years, usually on rhf spring hanger. Seen them on s2a and s3 same place. Not used for vehicle identification but internal numbering system in the assembly plants

Makes sense... so if the chassis number is not here, any suggestions where else it might be.

[Homestar]

Where ever you want to stamp it... 😇😉

[bemm52]

For a CKD it should be on the left hand rear spring hanger(passenger side)

My 2a military import had number stamped on front right Spring hanger hidden under bitumen spray I chipped off during chassis refurb

Whoever first registered the vehicle here stamped a number on the rear left spring hanger unaware of the original, a Calvin search of this number identified it as a Series 1[bighmmm]

Calvin search of factory number stamping said home market 2a 1971 which corresponded to rego sticker(date anyway)

Make what you like of this and Homestars post[bigwhistle]

Cheers Paul

[Cadas]

Springs....

in repco picking up the poly bushes for Sid (in stock would you believe), as we were looking through the suspension catagory came across this in the clearance items

152642

Rear heavy duty leaf spring $60 (Part # is in the pic but its A9267188). They are in a QLD branch but a pair including freight ($14!!) to Adelaide comes in at $134 for a pair of new leaf springs.

There are now 7 left in stock....

[67hardtop]

Springs....

in repco picking up the poly bushes for Sid (in stock would you believe), as we were looking through the suspension catagory came across this in the clearance items

152642

Rear heavy duty leaf spring $60 (Part # is in the pic but its A9267188). They are in a QLD branch but a pair including freight ($14!!) to Adelaide comes in at $134 for a pair of new leaf springs.

There are now 7 left in stock....Are these for lwb or swb??

[Cadas]

LWB according to the system.

[67hardtop]

Springs....

in repco picking up the poly bushes for Sid (in stock would you believe), as we were looking through the suspension catagory came across this in the clearance items

152642

Rear heavy duty leaf spring $60 (Part # is in the pic but its A9267188). They are in a QLD branch but a pair including freight ($14!!) to Adelaide comes in at $134 for a pair of new leaf springs.

There are now 7 left in stock....Set ordered. No freight coz its through our business acct. Very very happy. Thanks for the heads up. Only 5 left in stock now...[emoji2]

[Cadas]

You’re welcome!

What are they going to do with the last one......

[67hardtop]

Ive got a funny feeling they are all left hand side springs.

[Cadas]

Ive got a funny feeling they are all left hand side springs.

Picked mine up today and handed them straight back for a refund. No idea what they are for but it’s not a Land Rover. They are 300mm too short.

[Cadas]

Distracted again....

My super cheap auto branded cheap Chinese vice gave up and became lots of small pieces of cast iron. I needed a replacement and was reluctant to buy another cheapo, so.....

Facebook find.......

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190719/0b2b55a9b74a9d0c5e8aac33acd9e111.jpg

I’m not sure it’s a good sign buying shopping bags of rusty iron in supermarket car parks off little old ladies....

Bit of work and a touch of paint later...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190719/4c6c1204e4508778031e8e60057a3def.jpg

Think this one might last a bit longer, it’s a Record #3 probably of the same vintage as Sid

[Cadas]

Productive day, finally putting stuff back on....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190720/de38d8cfd27251230cc67f9ea733a18f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190720/769ebe92af24711dff7ad9ff44699078.jpg

But still taking stuff off...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190720/59331799a670cd529cdf1b178148e339.jpg

Bulkhead came of quit easily, the bolts came undone and we were able to lift it all off in one. Seems to be rust free, just needs a good scrub.

The diff is finally ready for assembly. I fitted the new outer pinion bearing which is the actual part number referenced in the parts manual. Very different to the other one, the angle of the bearing is very low, almost 45 degrees.

Working out the preload shims has taken a while, I made a mistake initially by tightening the nut up too quick, this prevents the bearing from seating properly so there was no consistency or logic to the shims. By sneaking up on the nut and tightening slowly the bearing seats properly and I could get consistency. Sod’s law meant I didn’t have the right shims, but as I’ve got plenty of diffs I went digging and found the right one in another diff.

[67hardtop]

Picked mine up today and handed them straight back for a refund. No idea what they are for but it’s not a Land Rover. They are 300mm too short.Is it possible that they are fronts??

[Cadas]

Possible, but without trying to fit them I couldn’t be sure. I didn’t have dims for the front with me.

[Cadas]

Rebuilt the diff today....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190721/38e56d862a3a47053842bcf36d9a7fb2.jpg

This was fun, time consuming given I haven’t done one of these before, but really satisfying. I get a real buzz out of the old engineering, though it does make you scratch your head sometimes,

This bit for example;

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190721/aef55a12d90957b792f3a001a79228d3.jpg

The engineers marks on all the pieces to ensure they dont get mixed up are great, but then, there’s no logic to how the pieces actually align. It’s as though the bits are clamped roughly together and then machined as they are.

Multipurpose tool.... big bolts for flange spanner, small bolts for carrier nuts.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190721/5b17bdd60e6493b1aac44146334a8a5c.jpg

All came together nicely, first attempt the run out was over limit, but second attempt had the run out under 0.07mm. Backlash was easy to sort, once you work out the logic of how the nuts adjust the backlash it all makes sense.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190721/29a15bb69d373ce8ad750ea96abe284d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190721/6f60fe992e99d7a08f151b9ad5f2ab4e.jpg

All up there’s nothing too scary and if you follow the manual it all works. Patience is the key though, I’ve lost count how many times I’ve put it together and taken it apart.

[Cadas]

Diff installed this evening

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190722/5c4828284e79547ea12544de58eefd17.jpg

I’ve been rebuilding the hubs and in following the manual came to the section that talks about converting oil to grease lubrication.

What do people recommend. I have already greased the bearings but not packed the hub so could go either way.

[Homestar]

I’d leave them as is. Pack the bearings, not the hub, as you’ve already done and let it go - if you’ve used new bits putting it together you shouldn’t have to worry about a leak for decades again. A small weep here or there has never bothered me with any of my hubs, but I haven’t had many do it either.

[67hardtop]

Picked mine up today and handed them straight back for a refund. No idea what they are for but it’s not a Land Rover. They are 300mm too short.I just got mine today. Not rears but fronts. So happy coz i needed new springs for the Piglet. Now ill have to fit bushes and then fit them to the front. Really stoked coz i got broken front main leafs on piglet...[emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/f7fd9857484a03eafae6fe4af1001114.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/e3341b51b2c9ab9fa733a8dc45205273.jpg

[Cadas]

Excellent news, glad it worked out[emoji16]

[Cadas]

What do people recommend. I have already greased the bearings but not packed the hub so could go either way.

Had decided to follow the advice given and not pack with grease.... a good decision I think. Just spent part of the evening stripping parts from the old axle.... that had been grease packed....don’t think the parts washer will be the same again.

On the subject of cleaning....hows this for a steering box....how clean and shiny is that!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/03fb7de35500f96ae1b2e1508f55ca7b.jpg

Pity that’s how I found it when I opened it up....not a drop of oil in there. Time for a rebuild.

[JDNSW]

Well, at least it was not full of rusty water!

[Cadas]

Back axle finished, mounted and wheels back on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190727/b5895c1f8e3c7628ac79998c24645925.jpg

Sid’s even got his first leak....🤣

My fault, forgot the copper washer.

Rest of time today was spent lifting tub off second Landy so I could make a jig from that to help position the replacement rear cross member

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190727/6efd3b047079f04125d18772a6643cfa.jpg

Jig was made and fitted to the old chassis with all fixing points marked and then the jig is fitted to Sids chassis.

Bit of welding planned for tomorrow.

[Cadas]

Rear crossmember installed today, this is my method for panels, it might be useful to someone else doing it.

First off was the jig https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/0718515a1ce9e775d198f2c045ab66ab.jpg
Build strong enough to clamp to the chassis and ultimately be able to support the new panel.

Then comes templates https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/709be125e40bf80bdfece0c89d5fcb88.jpg

Cardboard cut to fit the jig and existing chassis. Green tape marks the cut lines.
The templates are then transferred to the new panel
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/1bee4ce5185c080a85f48e429da36766.jpg

After cutting, if you’ve done it carefully you should get something like this. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/4d50420924f5afe9cf4fc7522d4c2737.jpg

Then it’s down to adjustment and fettling to tweak it in and pull the joints up tight.....lots of clamps help, and this is why the jig is build strong
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/eb316d16861e91dc89734a2b816c238d.jpg

Welding, grinding, etc and all done. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/8173f837e0c8c8786e121d8d60344db5.jpg

Welding not as nice as I would normally want. First time using a gas less mig and not a fan. As this was the only steel welding I can see doing I didn’t want to bother with a bottle. I’m perfectly clean new metal it’s fine, on old stuff, even cleaned it’s a bit rough.

[Homestar]

Love the use of CAD (cardboard aided design) 👍

Wouldn’t stress about the welds not looking great, Land Rover never did a great job to start with, yours match the OEM stuff. 😁👍

[Cadas]

While the chassis is exposed, I was looking at the spare fuel tank I have and thinking about fitting it on the left side (or at least mounting the outrigger)

From what I have researched the easiest way is to treat as separate tank with a changeover switch to a T on the main fuel line

What I haven’t found yet though are details of the under seat fill point, what does this look like?

[Homestar]

I'm about half way through the tanks on mine - I modded the passenger side tank with a fill point the same as the drivers side tank and have the bits to fit a filler in the passenger side identical to the factory one, so it can be filled from outside. I am also thinking of putting a balance pipe in between them but haven't got that far yet. The under seat fill point is just that - pull the seat base and the cover under it and there's a filler in the top of the tank right there. I welded that up on mine when I did the filler mod. A tee valve is the easiest way but again, I'll be using a second pump, solenoid and fuel sender to allow a switch on the dash to change over the fuel between them including the fuel gauge - like in my XJ6 Jag, but that's just me. If you can find a standard auxiliary tank, the filler should be right where you need it already.

[gromit]

At some point the regulations changed and you can't have a filler inside the vehicle. No idea when this came into play but your modification would have course been carried out 'in period'......
Standard underseat filler on a Series I but Series II onwards was external. My Dormobile has the standard rear tank for a wagon plus someone has added a tank under the drivers seat. The extra tank has a Series I filler neck welded in. It uses a changeover tap from a military IIa.
My Series I has a tank under the back as well as the standard tank and uses two electric pumps and a changeover switch. As you changeover it also connects the sender for the tank being used to the fuel gauge (original owner must have used an identical sender in the additional tank that was added).

Homestar's suggestion of a standard external filler point on the passenger side seems a better idea (like the Military Series II's & IIa's). You may have to cut the rubber filler hose in half add a piece of rigid tube. Partly to allow the different angle needed and also if you're using a standard underseat tank the filler is offset to one side so the filler hose may not be long enough.



Colin

[Cadas]

Thanks!

Prefer not to cut a second filler, I suspect this tank will be so rarely used that just having a internal filler would be fine for the occasional use.

Electric transfer pump is a thought, saves having a second fuel gauge.

More thinking to do.

[1950landy]

You just need a switch to switch from one sender to the other. Mount it near the tap & flick the switch when you change to the other tank.

[bemm52]

You just need a switch to switch from one sender to the other. Mount it near the tap & flick the switch when you change to the other tank.
That's what I did only with switch on dash orientated left or right, tee changeover tap on front of seat box, all simple and works through standard fuel pump
You will probably find you change over tanks quiet often if they are the 10 gallon ones
its not hard to cut in a new filler in tub I probably have a spare hanging around somewhere if you want it

Cheers Paul

[Cadas]

Cheers. I’ve got a spare filler from the parts landy I could use. But thank you for the offer.

Some thinking to do. Funnily enough I did look at a Land Rover in paramount Browns car park that had a left sided filler cap and wondered then if that was what it was for.

[Cadas]

Been a busy week and it’s been tricky finding time for Sid, so I’ve been steadily processing bits on the rusty shelves and getting them onto the painted shelves. Sort of.

Steering box hit a brick wall, the ‘rebuild kit’ from the usual supplier didn’t work, the races are cut too deep so loads of end float without shims. New adjustable races on order.

Handbrake refurbished!


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190804/1f9a094e93b86225d03adb63f34590fa.jpg

Pedal boxes in paint. All paint stripped and then bead blasted. I’ve new bushes to fit. The oiling cap is missing from both pinions, I’ve got bolts that fit but does anyone know what the cap is made of??

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190804/439f964b23f743587e4546ef23a70758.jpg

Prop shafts have been sand blasted but struggling to get the UJ’s out. Job for next week.

But progress made on the chassis. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190804/cd0b023e4fcfaebfff47a3d1ef581324.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190804/606878ee17728bbba71ab213fb01cf65.jpg

Front half has now been stripped, wire brushed and then sand blasted. I’ve been playing with the compressor and modifying my blast cabinet and the $50 pot from supercheap to work better. I can get to white metal with the pot on the chassis........ very slowly.......but it’s good for fiddly bits !

Next up chassis painting and dropping the front axle for a refurb.

[JDNSW]

Pedal boxes in paint. All paint stripped and then bead blasted. I’ve new bushes to fit. The oiling cap is missing from both pinions, I’ve got bolts that fit but does anyone know what the cap is made of??
.....

I' m trying to work out what n "oiling cap" or a "pinion" is in relation to a pedal box. The mention of "bolts" suggests that you are talking about the covers - these are made of sheet steel about 1.6mm. But an explanation would help!

[Cadas]

No, not them.

I meant the main trunnion rod that goes through the pedal box, on which the pedal swivels.

This trunnion has a threaded hole on one end which the manual says should be filled with oil to lubricate the bushes.

The manual shows an ‘oil plug’ which is just a 1/4 unf bolt, but also a large washer which I assume seals the bolt.

I can’t put an image up but it’s fig B-29 on page 17-B of part one of the manual.

[JDNSW]

OK - got it now. they are steel, short bolt with a copper washer - on mine the army replaced them with grease nipples!

[Cadas]

I’ve heard a lot of that goes on in the military. 🤣

Thanks...I know what I’m looking for now.

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190805/d88de823a5839fbdcbf912cac60739ff.jpg

Another raid on the Repco clearance bin....

For $30 you can do this in 15 minutes

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190805/11216999a8161f497b825172d0446a5e.jpg

Mind you, take care not to get carried away with the effectiveness of said new toy. When you are sitting back proudly admiring how easy all the bolts were to remove, remember there needs to be something supporting the axle other than the rust.

Steering relay is putting up a fight. Body is actually broken, plan is to disassemble in place and the. Break rest of body out. but can’t shift the shaft, beating crap out of it and it’s stuck. Filled it full of penetrating oil and left it overnight.

Anyone know where i can get a new relay body?

[67hardtop]

Remember those springs u got and returned? It turns out they are heavy duty front springs. I have fitted the ones that i got, to my stage one isuzu, and its sitting very nicely indeed. The stage one with isuzu is very heavy in front. The isuzu is heavier than the 3.5 V8 in the V8 stage one's. Im really impressed and glad u posted about them. The bushes were a little easy to fit. Hoping they will be tight enough to stay put. Cheers

[Cadas]

That’s great news.

[Cadas]

I won....!!!!!!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190806/f4eae61cf6a571a848f148ac58136c37.jpg

Now I need a new one, even the bits inside are knackered.

Bit nervy getting it apart. I had been bashing the shaft with a lump hammer getting nowhere. Bought some penetrating fluid (WD branded stuff I haven’t tried before) and it was brilliant stuff....actually worked which is something I haven’t experienced before with penetrating oil.

Anyhow, soaked it for an hour and bashed the top end of shaft and it went down through the relay, but nothing went ‘twang’. So I peeked inside the bag I’d tied around the chassis and there is the shaft, spring and bushes all stuck together hanging neatly from the bottom of the relay. Replaced bag and a few moments later there was a loud noise.

Relay was so rusty inside the bushes has rusted on the shaft and held everything together.

Relay is our but inside of chassis housing is cactus.

I’ve got another relay in the other Land Rover, I just can’t decide if I have the energy to even try.

[Cadas]

Busy evenings this week

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190809/115b3ba9b8b2ee95e6c3158018a5dc7c.jpg

Rebuilt prop shafts and pedal boxes. New bushes and UJ’s and all nice and shiny in satin black.

Then there was the pain the rear job the steering box.

It started so well, all painted, bead blasted, and ready to assemble. New rebuild kit and the first hour or so was enjoyable.... by the end I am about ready to club a certain British car parts manufacturer with the greasy end of a half built steering box.

Three sets of ball races have been purchased before a set arrived that were cut shallow enough that I could get rid of any end float. There was about 0.5m difference in the ball race depth.

Finally third set worked, able to shim the box up correctly and. Remove end float.

It is beyond me how much variation there is in their parts, so much that I have a increasing pile of ‘new’ unusable parts in little blue boxes.

Anyway... it looks good now it’s finished.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190809/3de5c57e04f59faea22a9f460725aa17.jpg

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190809/0f0738af6fb7112574a72cb5f3870193.jpg

Today’s challenge.

[Homestar]

Um, don’t want to burst your bubble, but it doesn’t go there... 😆😁

[67hardtop]

Looking to do a side drive conversion???🤣🤣🤣🤣

[Cadas]

Um, don’t want to burst your bubble, but it doesn’t go there... [emoji38][emoji16]

[emoji1787]

Maybe not, but those clever bods back in Solihull clearly designed the outrigger spacing to act as a perfect stand for axle disassembly !!!!

I put the back axle on axle stands and it never felt safe, so was looking for a different option for the front. I couldn’t lift it on the work bench, this was about as far as I could move it on my own without the crane.

It’s now in pieces, the main axle is already in primer and the rest goes in the parts washer today, then bead blasting in the cabinet, then back in the parts washer to get rid of debris. Heavy corrosion comes off easily with a heavy wire wheel followed by a soft pad wheel. should just be a swivel and hub rebuild after work next week.

This differential is in perfect nick, so just oil seals and repaint.

Because this went so well I decided to tackle the last two chassis bushes. Drivers side came out relatively easily, it was a two piece bush and split neatly in half. Passenger side was a true pig. Being a fairly new bush it was the worse by far, took nearly 3 hrs in the end. Tried hacksawing through (nah…) pressing it out (broke press), resorted to setting fire to it and pressing the rubber out (Wife not happy with the interesting smell through the house). then slowly chiseling out the outer. It still didn’t move after sawing through the outer.

Did find some damage to the bush tube welds, my guess is that when they presses the bush in they clamped something around the chassis rail, easy enough to repair.

Found the chassis number though!

[Cadas]

Chassis repair day.

Welding around the chassis bush mounts highlighted more welding

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/1306dc2fe3ef1e776fae59038f4fb139.jpg

The bottom corner weld on both sides has split about 250mm both sides. Judging by very round dents nearby, I think this was something to do with fitting bushes, maybe a hydraulic shifter was used. Easy enough repair.

Steering relay hole was another issue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/24d2d3e9482781bd20bbdfbde4a50e11.jpg

No idea how this damage was done, looks like someone has bashed a chisel in there.

Did make a new tube

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/d3ff4a28fb251f8810ed32bc9b300460.jpg

But decided to just add a repair section instead

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/35509bb3060fe5b5dba451808f9f6f6e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/de4a93fbe412b44958282ade3101f86c.jpg

More grinding to do but accidentally dropped my grinder in a bucket of diff oil that was put carefully out of the way for safe keeping [emoji37]

Axle looking sharp

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/5b75381cdeda50305e57a6e5050f79ce.jpg

[Cadas]

BTW.....

If you need to form a tube for a steering relay..... it’s the exact same diameter as a can of penetrating oil

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/05f028bf888f90ae2f1108f42e9b4a75.jpg

Think those Land Rover gits were taking the .......

[67hardtop]

I got a small length of truck exhaust pipe.

[Cadas]

Messy and dirty week...

Front half of chassis has now been blasted, degreased, rust killed and washed down ready for paint. Front diff and swivels the same. Marathon parts washing event.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190814/3b305353e4acdb85e24111351de7c2d4.jpg

On the upside, I built myself up to tackle the last of the bushes, these were in the front spring. Having spent a day getting the chassis bushes out I wasn’t looking forward to this.

Not sure what happened but these just popped out. It was like those car programmes on discover where the presenter removes decades old bushes with a small spanner and some old threaded bar whilst talking to camera and not breaking a sweat. A far cry from three hours in a pool of rust, tears and blood on the garage floor while steadily filling the swear jar.

I have been using a penetrating oil I found that actually works. I’ve always bought this stuff in hope rather than expectation as it has been universally useless. But this WD Penetrant is excellent. Bushes came out intact with a light tap through with a hammer and socket.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190814/f28f155d32be627e6e7c4215908f3905.jpg

Front springs done.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190814/7ec249afbfb5c16a093b828ac43cfc39.jpg

[Cadas]

Chassis painting today.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/6d75281df9a9f55506b8757b95e09b8d.jpg

The back half I had done by brush and it took forever. The front half I sprayed using a Fuji HVLP unit that I have had for a few years. Much better.

All painted using water based acrylic in satin black.

[JDNSW]

Bushes in springs are almost always a lot easier to remove than chassis bushes because the pring eye is not a closed circle - it will spring out slightly under pressure. If you are having problems, the eye can be opened slightly by driving a thin wedge such as a small cold chisel under the eye, along the top of the spring.

[Cadas]

Back springs weren’t easy, even with chisels, still came out in pieces.

Front springs are different to back, the spring loops completely around the bush so I couldnt use a chisel to open it.

[Cadas]

Progress has slowed a bit of late, work has been busy and when I’ve had time to work on Sid, I’ve been let down by parts again.

I am really becoming frustrated at the appalling quality control of both the manufacturer and retailers. Rant over.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190830/48d740205cc78358b3d51e0c0ddac6c8.jpg

Front axle is getting there. Drivers side done. Swivels rebuilt and set up.

Challenge I have though is the left side half shaft. The half shaft bearing was toast so I replaced that and then realised I’ve got to replace the race on the half shaft. But I have checked and I don’t seem to have the specialist contraption in the manual for disassembly.....so stuck.

Any ideas or suggestions? I’ve contemplated leaving as is, but the new bearing is 0.01” bigger which I think is too much play.

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190901/b742aa86d1808af42a146466c84f5132.jpg

Waiting for parts so attention has moved on to the gearbox

Nice therapeutic afternoon sat in the sun scrubbing a gearbox with a little wire brush.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190901/f00992f275d2cedb00f92a4ff14fbfd2.jpg

[JohnboyLandy]

I wouldn't have thought that 0.01” tolerance on the half shaft is too much, considering it's not really load bearing like the actual wheel bearings, by I am certainly no expert.

I had a buggered half shaft bearing as well, seems someone forgot to put any lubricant in the swivel !!. I did change both the bearing and race, but only because I had a friendly mechanic nearby with a press who did the race change for me. If I didn't have that service available, I probably would have just left the old race in place.

Cheers
John

[gromit]

Challenge I have though is the left side half shaft. The half shaft bearing was toast so I replaced that and then realised I’ve got to replace the race on the half shaft. But I have checked and I don’t seem to have the specialist contraption in the manual for disassembly.....so stuck.

Any ideas or suggestions? I’ve contemplated leaving as is, but the new bearing is 0.01” bigger which I think is too much play.

I found a similar problem some time back when I was swapping half-shafts between axles. The ID & OD of the bearings are controlled but different manufacturers use different dimensions for the rest of the bearing so one doesn't necessarily fit in another.

You need someone with a press.
Alternatively you might be able to get it off by grinding part way through and attacking it with a chisel. Being a bearing the steel is hardened so it should crack. Problem then is......you might need a press to get the new inner race into place although I have seen a large tube used as a slide-hammer to get a half-shaft bearing into place.


Colin

[Cadas]

Cheers guys,

Yes I think tolerance is too big, it’s about 1/4 mm which would allow vibration leading to bearing failure.

Plan A is to modify a 3 arm puller by making extended links from flat bar, but I suspect plan B (cutting nearly through and cracking then off) is more likely to work. I’ve ordered new collars and distance pieces so all three bits can be cut.

Putting them on, the manual says to drift them on with a tube

[Cadas]

I think I may have discovered why Sid was cheap.

Decided to start taking lids of the various parts of gearbox to paint and change gaskets. Then my suspicious nature began to question why the transfer box oil was sparkly clean when every other drop of oil on this car has been treacle. A further look is making me think this box was full of water at one point...or mud.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190904/a9d049d77495ba3a8447caa059aa4a47.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190904/54a0bd1e931e9299a2d5814ef6eecd4a.jpg

So I’ve removed the transfer case and getting a better look. Doesn’t look too bad but I think there is a problem in the front drive box. Backlash on the gears on the shaft is about an inch. End float can be measured with a ruler.

Gearbox rebuild here we come.... looking forwards to this!

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190907/27a969298766eb3b753beea667501b26.jpg

Rebuild well underway and this is incredibly satisfying stuff....I’ve started on the transfer box

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190907/3d78b625e7a680c27b411c43efadf218.jpg

Front housing cleaned and clear-coated

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190907/2c9cb6fc2beb165c61335b4d95636c9a.jpg

Same for the box itself.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190907/edda30b62c1309005633373d23e4637a.jpg

Ready to go back together. Now this reminds me of the game I had as a kid called Buckeroo.... carefully trying to add bits to the box... one wrong move and it all explodes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190907/f526dfb0a23b4f1364d2f587dea77eab.jpg

Done and all works. I’ve got the other bits and pieces in paint and will finish it off tomorrow. Then onto the gearbox itself.

[Cadas]

Gearbox!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190908/abbb8dcea41353e6ae27e020463b91bd.jpg

This is a bit of a mess, leaking a fair bit.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190908/fa2f4eb3688a329146c11091fda752ad.jpg

Not helped by the liberal use of gasket cement around every joint. The clutch release housing was glued on and took a fair bit of shifting.

All cleaned out now, parts washing and then paint stripper to remove the old gasket cement.

It does mean that I’m in for new bearings unfortunately.

Inside of the gearbox is spotless, but the oil is yellow/gold. Not sure if to worried yet. I’m in this far so will strip rest of box down.

I did take the lid off....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190908/8298875f929344aa972111d3c0990abf.jpg

Then carefully replaced it.... that’s for another day.

[Cadas]

Felt brave this evening and decided to keep going with the box.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/7224d276bad456356ab1191e697d9e8a.jpg

Selectors removed, all the loose bits are taped in and I’ll clean these up one by one.

First problems, as I had thought, this box has been full of water at some point. Granted someone has cleaned it up but ...rust
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/61dda11d91cceed39c56accb0d58396a.jpg

Think first is toast...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/1bbd66e3ce3d31aa6e6d2dc1955e827a.jpg

The main shaft looks better, no damage visible, but this isn’t good

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/1fa3fb9d6ada2c55f97109a2ad009b92.jpg

Third gear is a bit wobbly, end float is 0.025” (should be 0.004-008” According to manual). Second gear has no end float, can’t get anything in.

Drift out main shaft.....err right

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/c4fb6d0c63f4ce9718a2bcedaf9795d7.jpg

So far so good, but I’ve reached the snap ring. Time for dinner..

[Cadas]

“Well there’s your problem!!!”

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190910/9ce25168ea3d632ed15e422737bea51c.jpg

Instincts were right....there was a problem deep down. That was a one piece bush. Huge relief to find that.

When I was bench testing the box it all seemed to work fine, changed gear, no unpleasant noises, but the cleanliness of box and oil and the yellow colour did not feel right.

The only physical sign (part from oil) was that end float.

[67hardtop]

Thats a common break. Ive seen a couple like that

[Cadas]

With the break in the weather I’ve finally been able to get Sid out in the sun for a wash and final coat of paint.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190915/5c7f8fe7d5dbf88b7e69ff0b819556a8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190915/b1dca15242c891d4a8d054073248f77e.jpg

The front end finally came together this week with the arrival of OEM half shaft bearings from paddocks. Huge difference from the Brit part ones that I started with, for a start they were the same size as the old ones!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190915/773069afa68a2b698822f14986007433.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190915/9158bb95d73d4b3067439ab5dd7410ba.jpg

So, Sid is now back in the shed and next up is the gearbox

One gearbox cleaned, disassembled and ready to go

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190915/65576fb59dea66c3012864176b5f630e.jpg

I’ve a complete rebuild kit coming from the UK this week. I am looking forward to this, it’s been great fun so far.

Would it be if interest if I video’d the build? I’ve been using the only YouTube vid I can find if a box rebuild but that was a series 3.

[bemm52]

Yep I'd watch a rebuild vid if you posted one I have a spare box and transfer I want to refurb

Cheers Paul

[Cadas]

Gearbox rebuild has begun. I have been trying to video... don’t think I’m going to be a YouTube star anytime soon.

Anyhow... bell housing sorted, new grommet And fully rebuilt clutch release with new bearings and bushes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/ac15e7a38c26376f35e2d1d3a76d1c2e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/fdbda7805a4b91388e4d2cee9327a34f.jpg

Onto the gearbox proper, first challenge is removing the rear lay shaft bearing race. According to the manual, a bit of heat and a sharp whack with a mallet..... yeah right.

In the end it was fairly easy, but this was my method.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/34c610f580d1c8b13803fc8315e2d975.jpg

Large socket, it wasn’t a tight fit so a couple if turns of insulation tape made the socket a gentle drive fit inside the bush. It only needed to be tight enough to get some purchase.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/541c68be201eead4de8a33337db182f4.jpg

Then applying heat to the end of the box and applying a bit of gentle twisting and it slid out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/347886beeb58db6c761c9ec5c6d4c6a1.jpg

Reverse gear shaft went in next which is simple.

Next up was the lay shaft rebuild, but here’s the first problem.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/369bfdaced644610aa70d5894fc11143.jpg

The first gear is from a later box, 14/29 rather than 15/30 which is what my spares are for.

So new gear on order, and play has stopped for now

[Cadas]

Does anyone know what size circlip I need for the main gear stick mechanism.

I know which direction the old one went in.... I just forgot to measure it before it disappeared

[Cadas]

So we finally have new parts, play restarts....mainshaft rebuild

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190930/898a96e1d8b8233003d691f18b485aeb.jpg

Two part brass bush this timehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190930/aec5ccba813e5372cf0311b4673c334c.jpg

And adjusting to fit, emery paper spray glued to a flat surface

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190930/cdb0e235f9cb6722b11643593e1285ee.jpg

This is a surprisingly quick process to little and check was the key, but I found you can really sneak up on the tolerance you need. Trick here is not to go to far initially. It might seem counter intuitive but at this stage I went for the biggest end float leaving bush as long as possible. I’ll come back to why

Then to adjust top bush
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190930/5caafe000cd3fd9ae6689ac558bc8e28.jpg

This one is a pain as the first step involves adjusting end float of gear, for this the circlip has to come on a off a fair few times. Again leave as long as possible.

Finally adjusting both bushes against circlip. I had to order a new thrust washer but had to go two sizes up as one size not enough

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190930/70c91107c8fecc2acf733abbd8cc993a.jpg

I could then readjust the lengths of the brass bushes with a bit more sanding to overcome the increased bush thickness. If I’d sanded the bushes to the finest tolerance I’d be relying only on the thrust washer for adjusting tolerance.

Next up is the layshaft.

As an aside, also in the box of parts was a new steering relay housing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190930/7aa537d03f6d5bcfb92914b6cfb03d06.jpg

I reckon this is original, certainly been on a shelf for along time

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190930/f68fe06059a9ec76803c840ce95f76f3.jpg

[Cadas]

Btw, forgot to mention, bushes were glued on with this stuff

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190930/05495b042cfd55ed2212ac0dfc062e33.jpg

Yellow medium retaining fluid, same as loctite 609 but smells like lemons!

[Cadas]

Gearbox saga continues...this middle section has been a test.

So, first challenge, getting new layshaft bearing on the shaft. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/f9e3c4cb5a59c336e7b74e57c98fadd2.jpg

Old bearing came off easily.

New one though took a bit of work. 6t press couldn’t do it, eventually a 12t press plus freezing the shaft and warming the bearing did the trick

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/6bada73adfdbe08749b2c766230dd7ce.jpg.

The saga wasn’t over with this bearing as I found out later.

Main bearing drifted in easily, heat is so important with this assembly, heating the case before assembly makes it all go so much easier. I used retaining fluid on the bearing housing and bearing itself.

Rest of assembly is easy, just sliding bits on. Trick is to remember to keep vertical at all times to save having to crawl under the bench to find the split washer.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/661654ee8aa03a25ac8c5d1a328d4865.jpg

Then the fun began, first assembly didn’t work, the layshaft wasn’t sitting down in the new race. It did if I used a hammer, so clear something not right.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/793b7b094ec0440bbb6c47ccbd26c93a.jpg
A lot of testing and measurements came to unhappy conclusion that layshaft bearing was not fitting. In an earlier post I’d detailed how I got old layshaft race out, but at the time I had had to press the new race in and it seemed very tight at the time. I remember thinking ‘pity the poor sod who has to get that out’....

ha bl***y ha.

Solution was to weld a bar in the race and drift the gearbox off.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/a3e958ff1ee8027efc8ca95e3d6b568c.jpg

I am coming to the conclusion that OEM is the only way to go with critical gears, etc. I am getting totally fed up by the shocking manufacturing tolerances of the generic stuff.

Next fit went together fine, although some specialist tools are needed to keep the first and reverse gears out of the way https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/cb171a7096d8255a4ff7c4320dbfbae1.jpg

Final bits
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/265d75984f1eda065d48e2033b2a0ac1.jpg

Bell housing went on easily, bit fiddly holding the last gear and conical spacer while sliding the bell housing on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/370f2e0014993af84034bd97fc37535c.jpg

Final tip.... don’t get carried away and rebuild the clutch release housing before you fit bell housing, otherwise you have to take it all off to get at layshaft nut. Don’t ask me how I know.

[Cadas]

And we’re done!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191006/28c0db2d1cd735dc7c0abb4957cc649b.jpg

Fitting the selector shafts was quite straightforward, the workshop manual describes the process perfectly.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191006/2ae473b59d2bc636187384c0f08a4853.jpg

I’d replaced the oil seals which means removing all the selector yokes. They go back together easily enough as there are notches in the shaft to align everything. But some fine adjustment is needed when all three are in place to give enough clearance between the rods, but not too much to upset the racing short throw feel.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191006/b60841c3d19e2a9454229c99a5aabff0.jpg

Today’s new toys found at local market. Haggled then down from$2 each to a $1. Makes such a difference having spanners that fit the bolts.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191006/0ac053f17e718af16670c3c131f02cfb.jpg

Gearbox back together and finished. Except this was the point I realised that the clutch release fixing bolts are still on the work bench. I am now something special at fast field stripping gearboxes so half an hour later I’d taken it all to pieces and rebuilt. Even had time to look for split washer under the bench again.

Mounting the transfer box. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191006/b0570e1920b8011a9d0618a3c36076a0.jpg

This angle makes it dead easy, slipped together. Everything has now been bolted on the outside ready for mounting in the chassis tomorrow. Levers, handbrake, etc will all get fitted insitu

[Cadas]

Gearbox is back in Sid.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/c87f590a33c0b7984b1b43d67de59e08.jpg

It’s been a very satisfying project. This was my first gearbox rebuild and I was nervous but I was working on the basis that I had a spare in case it went wrong. So for those tempted to have a go.

Is it easy.... well it’s not overly hard. This is not the gearbox off my 4wd Audi which scares me to even think of it. The Landy box is heavy old fashioned engineering built by man and adjusted with feeler gauges and micrometers. Taking time, reading the manual forwards and backwards is a must. The instructions are good and make sense once you start taking it apart. Cleanliness is critical as ever.

Special tools, not really, I would not want to do one without a shop press. You can drift things with a hammer, but better if you can avoid it.

Parts......go oem, the pattern parts from britpart, bearmach, etc... are a lottery. Oem will add about $150 to the rebuild cost so not that much really. Other tip is to measure the bits that come off and make sure the new bits are exactly the same. You’d be surprised. Buy two gasket sets, they are about $10 each and you’ll need them. All up I reckon the gearbox cost me $300 to rebuild with everything replaceable...replaced.

Watch the series 3 video rebuild on you tube, very similar to the 2/2a to at least give you a solid understanding of what’s going on.

[Cadas]

Gear box finished and fully dressed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191012/c8fd2758d3eddb63bae846eaa7966e13.jpg

Next up, steering relay.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191012/5a2182b8815c1880b404c0c442163853.jpg

I don’t have the ‘special tool’. I did briefly try the squeeze in a vice and secure with tie wraps, but not convinced and tie wraps make it difficult to thread the shaft through.

So plan B.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191012/0cc0d5f6a0bb6c4aec64fba332f1b401.jpg

35mm notch cut in length of angle iron.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191012/3ab969ae65914ce8e33b135733a0c2dc.jpg

Secure one end in a vice and gently wind down other end with clamps.

Very gentle and controlled. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191012/145fcf1b849e5716813fe37259c5f015.jpg

And plenty of room to get the bush and clip on

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191012/62ad7fae48779a52212e6c97ae01bdca.jpg

Done! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191012/afc7c2383ca20b5ed9c51444b45c4ea4.jpg

Engine tomorrow

[gromit]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191012/afc7c2383ca20b5ed9c51444b45c4ea4.jpg



Seal housing is upside down.


Colin

[Bellytanker]

Great work but the idea of rebuilding the gearbox still scares me.

[Cadas]

Seal housing is upside down.


Colin

Yep, only on loose. I’m missing a thrust washer for the top.

[Cadas]

Interesting day, engine tear down.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191013/a02f95066a6dcd28a9eae51a100b1b4d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191013/38e7c8611d77b8aec2328217092bdc8d.jpg

Hmmm... new water pump

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191013/963ca6f61bf539b05e99ab55ed2d026e.jpg

Head cam off easily enough, but needs a fair bit of work. Corrosion around water ways is quite deep.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191013/b32070dd3cfaa4039304ce27e01f5ae5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191013/5ce29442a13f5daabee14d9ab38560ee.jpg

Cylinders will need a rebore... Sid’s had a tough life. Some scoring and a very noticeable lip around the top. One piston is missing a bit of metal, all the rings are toast. I’ve kept going, pulled the cam out, that’s ok, but crank needs a regrind, couple of bearings are worn through and some quite bad scoring.

So with one engine needing a bit of work, I wondered.... a few months back we pulled a LD from a field north of Adelaide, the engine looked to be full of wasps nests... anyhow, pulled the head and may be worth buying a lottery ticket.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191013/1a622b3fc43e993374a65f659b53336b.jpg

This heads had a lot of work, a skim (big skim) about 4mm, but it’s been fully rebuilt, even the plugs have been welded. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191013/7ac9b3b462fb5d96a99ecee84daef8de.jpg

New valves, springs, seals and guides plus new valve seats.

Cleaned up nicely. (Wasps had only gone a few cm into the head).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191013/bf852407caf944c2925f46b90c2e658b.jpg

The block is in better nick than Sid’s but I think if I was pulling that I would want to send it to the shop. I don’t think that has had work done.

So plan is to rebuild original block and use refurbished head. That leaves me with a decent engine to rebuild down the track (I sense a shorty may be on the horizon).

I’m heading back to the Uk next month so I should be able to squeeze a set of pistons into the luggage.

[Cadas]

Bit more investigation, skim not as big as I feared. I was measuring between the two heads but having looked properly, the head off Sid is a 7:1, the recon head was an 8:1. Measuring properly they have still taken about 40 or 50 thou. so don’t think this is an issue, might help a bit!

[Cadas]

Engine has gone to the machine shop.

Waiting on information back from machining before I can order any parts but that hasn’t stopped me looking.

Pistons seem to be the challenge....everyone sells them but after much badgering most confess that they are Britpart and I’m just not prepared to go there after the experience with bearings. Leaves me a choice I think between Bearmach and Turner. There are still some original units floating about but cost is prohibitive. Strangely, original bearings are only a couple of $ more than pattern parts.

Any one have any experience or suggestions for parts?

Attention has turned to the greasy bits off the engine.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191018/acb12431f1fa75830836a96320e9e690.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191018/cf659134626eef583588183c309a661a.jpg

Oil pump was surprisingly good, mucky but good. The leaky pistons has made the oil black as and it stinks. All pump tolerances were bang in the middle so after a clean it’s gone back on the shelf.

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191019/de8e57bba0e884e1aa8bce38452ca452.jpg

Anyone know what this is? Found it on the bench where the engine came apart. Can’t see it on the parts diagrams....

[Chops]

I think that’s a carby needle.

[Cadas]

I think that’s a carby needle.

That’s what I thought.... but carb has been on the shelf in the other room for months. Guess it must have dropped somewhere a while back and spinning the engine around it’s dropped out.

[1950landy]

Yes neadle valve out of neadle valve & seat in the float chamber . It can't just fall out unless you dismantle the carby. I would say some one has replaced it at some time & droped it on the engine some were & it has fallen on your bench .
It looks like it is out of a Holden carby.

[JDNSW]

I thought it looked like the one out of a Zenith - but a lot of them look very similar.

[Cadas]

Thanks all, wasn’t going mad then.

Yes, the carb I took off was a Holden Strom unit. Likely to be the source of the bit.

[Cadas]

Hi, can anyone help with a steering damper question?

Both my Landrovers have brackets for dampers but the damper I ordered has a different fitting method. Looking at all suppliers, all dampers have this same fixing method.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191026/bc0b9995f26fdbd8543c7dcf175023ca.jpg

Am I correct in thinking that this bracket arrangement is just for a standard shock absorber?

If so, any ideas what part this would be to go looking?

Thanks!

[67hardtop]

Steering dampers are different to shock absorbers. Don't put a shocky on there

[JDNSW]

The steering damper fitting shown on your vehicle is an early type. It is not listed in my optional equipment book, but is in my 1965 optional equipment catalogue. The damper you show is for the fittings listed in the parts books - you can fit this by replacing the drag link with the later type that has a fitting for the damper.

Note that the steering damper was never standard equipment on any Series Landrovers (except possibly FCs and Stage 1), although it fitted to most if not all Australian built ones from the late 1960s, probably as customers and dealers realised they were standard on Jap competitors. Series Landrovers rely for steering damping on the frictional damping in the swivels and relay, and the hydraulic damper should not be necessary except when used on very rough surfaces. Worth noting that one of the early modifications to the 80" was to increase the frictional damping in the relay - I think the frictional damping in the swivels was introduced even before actual production began.

[Cadas]

Thanks.

Changing out the drag link is a possibility, but there is the same bracket arrangement welded to the chassis. It does sound as though this will be hard to find.

In rebuilding all of the swivels and relay I have achieved the resistances specified in the manual so omitting the damper should not be a big issue (given the manual doesn’t have it in there).

It will just look a bit odd if I leave the bracket assembly on for now.

Cheers all!

[Cadas]

Finally getting back to Sid after travelling for work. Tested the baggage allowance somewhat but was able to buy parts over the counter at craddocks.

Exciting times ahead
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191129/3ca1a7085191340562030e87aae5c5d2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191129/df797807b9ff78580cd06a9d6abf2ae9.jpg

Engine is back from the machine shop and looking amazing. Fair bit still to do as I was keen to rebuild as much as I can myself, but quality of work looks great and cost was surprisingly good.

Also managed to get some time in the garage to start on the body

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191129/1fc1009770dfac12011554c2e5959671.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191129/c9a853db6a8dbe5dff293d247e932735.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191129/2da9d7d25bfb3f0fa04bc92924d63653.jpg

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191130/9cc789937f4f6876fd901a55c1270cd7.jpg

Engine block cleanup today, getting the outside derusted and wire brushed back before the block gets washed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191130/cd5adbeb498976e7fe9f51f3099358d3.jpg
These two welsh plugs were left in by the machine shop (they removed all the others) they are seized tight just not sure whether I should be trying to remove them.

Welding finished on the rad panel,

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191130/8187e124c4f9d47aa91e308c90da23ad.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191130/d98db51088c0b5d5e48fc55f1d27d2a3.jpg

I’ve patched in a couple of holes, and removed the inner reinforcing angle (cutting out the spot welds). Local steel shop made me up a piece of 2.0mm angle that slipped straight in and could then be plug welded.

All turned out ok, but some distortion around the plug welds that I can’t dress out due to the double layer of steel so some filler work to do.

[Chops]

I don’t think they are welsh plugs, but rather heater/water outlets for the cabin heating system.
I could well be wrong, but I thought that welsh plugs were “push in”, not screw in.

[Cadas]

I don’t think they are welsh plugs, but rather heater/water outlets for the cabin heating system.
I could well be wrong, but I thought that welsh plugs were “push in”, not screw in.

Of course, that makes sense. Probably worth trying to remove them and refit while the engine is out. A heater would be a nice accessory down the track and I wouldn’t fancy shifting these with the engine in situation.

[JDNSW]

I don’t think they are welsh plugs, but rather heater/water outlets for the cabin heating system.
I could well be wrong, but I thought that welsh plugs were “push in”, not screw in.

They are screw plugs, but they are not for the heater - it connects to the head and thermostat housing. But I don't know why they are threaded rather than welch plugs, perhaps because there is not enough metal there. The lower threaded one that does not have a plug in it is, I think, for a block heater - at least on the early engines it has some weird thread.

[Cadas]

Just checked the other spare block I have and that has press in welch plugs. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191201/e5377ea54849d1ca5f1099e404792afb.jpg

This needs some investigation. Not sure I’m happy to do all this work and have these corrode out.

[Cadas]

Well they came out easy enough, size matters with spanners

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191201/c32e507111212e3ba03fa957c67a4089.jpg

But not good,

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191201/9b7ed7b70d59f6849b4d37973bef399b.jpg

There’s only about 1.5 threads inside and looks rather as though these plugs have been forced in rather then having the hole tapped first.

I’ll ring the engine shop but gut feeling is that there should be drilled out to accept a proper plug.

[67hardtop]

My 2.25 petrol engine had screw in alloy welch plugs fitted in these holes, same as the cylinder head had. But the 2.25 diesel I now have has knock in welch plugs in these holes and in the cylinder head. Don't know why there is so many differences in these engines, tho the diesel is a s3 engine. Cheers

[JDNSW]

My 2.25 petrol engine had screw in alloy welch plugs fitted in these holes, same as the cylinder head had. But the 2.25 diesel I now have has knock in welch plugs in these holes and in the cylinder head. Don't know why there is so many differences in these engines, tho the diesel is a s3 engine. Cheers

Might have something to do with the fact that they were in production for 25+ years?

(not all that long as motors go - the Ford T engine seems to have been in production for 33 years, the Ford V8 for 58 years and the VW flat four for 70 years.)

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191207/e8f0709d07ed82250924bd533897e642.jpg

Hot day today so engine is having its bath. Engine shop said to do this (hot soapy water and scrubbing brush) took some convincing (and some googling) but went with it. Glad I did, the block came up brilliantly. Jet washed everything and blasted out all the galleries until they ran clear.

Despite being a hot day. Blew the block dry with compressed air

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191207/7907bcf730592145316b0bc333832490.jpg

Seeing as the block was dry and very warm, decided to keep going. Masked up.

Primerhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191207/327d66011fc1caa614aefc292111fc5e.jpg

And satin black
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191207/edb164d7d45d6a0258caf97fcd8c15f2.jpg

Goes with the colour scheme.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191207/26d15d79bc95b36ee6485235d128485f.jpg

[Cadas]

Deliberately waiting until Christmas hols before embarking on the engine rebuild. In the mean time I have been spending time trying to find all the new parts that have been delivered and put away for safe keeping.

And starting to get ahead on the bits that will need to go back on the engine.

Distributor rebuild today.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191208/229707f5c48761e2df89de38c7eeadf5.jpg

Was yuk.... now shiny

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191208/66e8c745cb8c4b5cb011ac5a8abdd73f.jpg

My only concern here is the amount of end play in the shaft, but no one seems to sell the washer that sits above the dog as a replacement part so it will have to stay that way.

[1950landy]

They usually have a bit of end float in the shaft enen from new. It is only side movement & worn cam lobes that will cause problems with the points opening different amounts on each cylinder.

[Cadas]

Thanks, that’s good to know. Fortunately shaft is in good nick so not worried there.

[Cadas]

Exhaust systems..... thinking ahead.

Has anyone sourced one in Adelaide?

[grey_ghost]

Exhaust systems..... thinking ahead.

Has anyone sourced one in Adelaide?

I can’t help with Adelaide but I bought a Britpart system for my Series II and it didn’t fit... I exchanged it for a Bearmach - which fitted perfectly.

Cheers,
GG

[bemm52]

I can’t help with Adelaide but I bought a Britpart system for my Series II and it didn’t fit... I exchanged it for a Bearmach - which fitted perfectly.

Cheers,
GG

Were these locally sourced or ordered through one of the Pommie websites, I tried to get an exhaust system through Paddocks but got a to big to ship to Australia block

Cheers Paul

[Cadas]

I can’t help with Adelaide but I bought a Britpart system for my Series II and it didn’t fit... I exchanged it for a Bearmach - which fitted perfectly.

Cheers,
GG

Thanks, I looked at bearmach, whilst the exhaust was pretty good value at $200, shipping is $488, assuming it arrives with the same number of bend it set off with.

I can get britpart one here but have no desire to buy them.

Thinking I might be heading down the custom path.

[grey_ghost]

Were these locally sourced or ordered through one of the Pommie websites, I tried to get an exhaust system through Paddocks but got a to big to ship to Australia block

Cheers Paul

At the time I purchased locally from Four Wheel Drive in Blackburn. But that was a few years ago now. (Maybe 3 or 4 - they have since changed hands and moved to Hallam I think).

Freight from the UK is always a huge killer unfortunately.

[Cadas]

More preparation for engine assembly..... looking for silicone grease or a suggestion for an alternative.

All the info I can find says that that the rear crank seal should be smothered in this stuff... and that it should be in the kit. It isn't in mine....... Not found a supplier locally so assuming that there is some other substance I could use. Has anyone used something different with success?

My local Repco is getting used to me going in and asking for all sorts of strange goops and oils, but no luck here.

Exhaust search on going but clutch search sorted today, found one in stock at Australian Clutches in Adelaide.

[gromit]

More preparation for engine assembly..... looking for silicone grease or a suggestion for an alternative.

All the info I can find says that that the rear crank seal should be smothered in this stuff... and that it should be in the kit. It isn't in mine....... Not found a supplier locally so assuming that there is some other substance I could use. Has anyone used something different with success?

My local Repco is getting used to me going in and asking for all sorts of strange goops and oils, but no luck here.

Exhaust search on going but clutch search sorted today, found one in stock at Australian Clutches in Adelaide.

Repco list silicon grease but would have thought any grease/oil would have done the job CRC Silicone Grease 75ml - CRC Chemicals | Repco Australia (https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/greases-lubricants/greases/crc-silicone-grease-75ml/p/A9446939)

As Grey Ghost mentioned, Four Wheel Drives moved to Hallam and went through a couple of changes of ownership.
Best to phone them, Bobby is very helpful and Murray (who works on Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays) knows his stuff and should be able to help.
Four Wheel Drives – Land Rover Spare Parts Specialists (http://www.forwardspares.com.au/)

I'm surprised that Paddocks won't ship the exhaust but they seem to have switched to DHL whereas you used to get a choice of freight company. Might be worth trying a few other UK suppliers.
Most of the Australian LR suppliers should carry the exhaust (or be able to get it), years back exhausts would have been made locally.

The clutch from Paddocks might be cheaper, they tend to have two alternatives a 'brand name' and one from India.


Colin

[OneOff]

Got my exhaust from John Craddock, full system, no problem at all.


Again, including shipping, cheaper than local...

[jasonk]

Regarding the silicone grease, I have found the CRC product to be a bit thin & fluid. I could have been unlucky and it may have been a one-off.

I use Molykote 111 instead. I bought it from Bearing Service Centre.

I use it on the lip of all the oil seals I install, including the large swivel pin seals.

Cheers
Jason

[Cadas]

thanks all, in the end the answer was simple.... found some at supercheap auto, sold as Silicone Paste, but tracked down a data sheet for it and it is a high temperature long life silicone grease suitable for 200C + temps. on sale for $8 if you don't mind!!

Technical question if I may... what is the trick to fitting the handbrake shoes with the prop shaft and assembly fitted? The manuals just say 'fit shoes' but for the life of me I cannot see how to fit the springs first and then stretch the shoes over the flange.... the spring doesnt fit between the flange and the adjuster and I can't see how I get in there to fit the spring.

The manual shows the spring behind the shoe, if it was in front I could see it being possible... is there a trick or do I jsut remove the propshaft and save the swearing...

[JDNSW]

Just remove the prop shaft, and the output flange. It may be possible to do it without, but it will be so much easier without them there that it is a waste of time, effort and skin to not remove them. (I removed them after trying to do it with them in place.)

[67hardtop]

Have you tried Pete at PCB Land rovers. Nick is very cluey and they can get almost anything. Pricing is pretty good too. 0883500110
Exhaust systems..... thinking ahead.

Has anyone sourced one in Adelaide?

[Cadas]

Thanks, I’ll give him a try.

I’m also looking at options to have the front piper made up. I have the old one and it’s a pretty simple setup

I also found someone selling custom headers for a series 2a, not sure exactly what 3” pipes will do for performance, but if you had to replace a manifold then it was quite a cheap solution.

[67hardtop]

I've got a set of new exhaust extractor home for a 2.25 petrol motor. Don't fit diesel so no good to me now. My petrol motor was stuffed but I didn't know when I bought them. If it interested I can give u them at my cost. Pm me if you want them. Still wrapped in plastic. Cheers

[Cadas]

More prep ahead of engine rebuild. This prep is getting expensive.

Fuel pump today.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191215/cc2e82879899cceef84d7060a9d190fd.jpg

I didn’t take a pic of the before state, but this was black, inside and out. Copious carb cleaner and trips through the parts washer got me to this. New valves installed (simple task in).

I had splashed out on a genuine Land Rover refurb kit rather than a blue box but results were the same.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191215/dd0740e2cd855d38a2fa9dfcb38b50f3.jpg

Replacement part on the right, didn’t fit. New oil seal took some working out. Goes on the outside of flange unlike the original that was inside.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191215/156836d4a570f931033b651d0897982d.jpg

Still, all done. Fitting the membrane and shaft is like assembling some old Bomb timer. Insert at correct angle, push to precise pressure and turn 90 degrees to click into place.

Pump now sounds like it’s sucking which it didn’t before.

Rebuilt dizzy on the right.

Final job of the day was to clean up and inspect the rocker set. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191215/6f112170e5ca1ad54198dc158e57ec3d.jpg
Fell apart easy enough
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191215/a1c8c2c40f95cbd0267ab97bda328e25.jpg

But shaft is cactus
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191215/9d2e16448241a6b197ec16ad2cde10fc.jpg

Looked at spare head I have, even worse, like a knobbly stick.

New shaft in order from UK with new bushes and a trip back to machine shop.

[JDNSW]

Too long between oil changes?

[Cadas]

Indeed, it’s a good example of why regular oil changes are critical.

The oil passage holes in the shaft were blocked.

[JDNSW]

One of the strengths, as well as one of the weaknesses, of this engine is that it will withstand an awful lot of abuse and still keep going. But the abuse does result in this sort of issue.

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191222/e4108d541771c657ee30c477a297bcb7.jpg

Finally the handbrake is fitted and working. That was a pig of a job. Fitting the shoes with the prop shaft and drive flange was impossible. Took the advice on here and stripped the prop shaft off (8 expensive bsf nyloc nuts gone). This did make access much easier but removing the flange empties the transfer box oil all over the hand brake drum. So after cleaning, the solution was to pull the flange half way out (not enough to leak) to get the outer spring then shove back in and stretch the other side over with your third hand and keeping the adjuster in place with your other hand. Easy!!

Engine rebuild starts tomorrow. Last minute panic when I found two problems, one mine, one the previous owners. I’d forgotten to have the small end bushes reamed. Sorted.

But the big end seats were damaged ( I’d left the old bearings in to protect them) but on removal the old seats were dented. Machine shop thinks someone did a bearing swap in situ and tapped out the old shells with a punch. Still, guys at the shop resized the big ends in a couple of days so panic over.

Also got the firewall back from blaster. Photos later. Another last minute panic being given an hours notice to collect on Friday lunch when we’re out on the staff Christmas lunch. Fortunately the firewall fits into the back of the wife’s car.

[Cadas]

Engine build Day 1 (Christmas shopping done)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191223/27c00ee9c623254594164553e37714ae.jpg

Crank having the soapy water treatment. I’d deliberately left this until the last moment to keep the protective film on the newly ground areas.

Bearing shells in, seats had a wipe down with degreaser and another blow with air before clipping bearings in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191223/33ac20421a3bfbcab1536f71f0f1bd99.jpg

Dry fit this time, all went together fine and looks as though the machine shop has done its job well.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191223/4a21f991ac8bbb3a3dcc0c8c310b825f.jpg

Flexiguage shows clearance as spot on (~0.002”) The crank was reground to 020 over sized and bearings were King brand from bearmach.

That’s it for day one, tomorrow I’ll re fit and install the thrust bushes and seals, etc.

[Cadas]

Day 2 ... cranks in !

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/6de7c00b21fa24eaf0cb633303386456.jpg

Today was long but necessary. First fit of crank and testing end float. I’d anticipated that this would be an issue. End float with old thrust bearings was over (0.2mm against max 0.15). Challenge is that the bearings had worn down to 0.09”. The only size I can buy is 0.1” which is too big.

So a long afternoon was had with the emery paper.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/357adc8f021e638d2c47b81cdd6ecc3d.jpg

These things are hard as you would expect, took a good few hours to get them sorted.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/976db357dc7a255dec92fda82abcb8eb.jpg

Bang on minimum tolerance. I don’t have any finger tips though.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/2cfd38e8f7adcfd516e6d66b18dc5764.jpg

Everything back together with plenty of Lucas assembly lube which is excellent stuff.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/fd042a549e3ec7e8bd8f71bbb566fa05.jpg

Fitting the seal was easier with the crank on the bench, I tried to do it on the engine stand but no chance trying to hook up the spring ends between the crank and block, so out the crank came again.

Bottom seal plate is a pig to fit on a stand, careful removal of fixing brackets one by one allowed access to fixings. The last one could be reached (as planned [emoji848]) through the pivot on the engine stand. At this point I probably should have moved the engine to the bench but it worked in the end.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/caeb24d9487852bad9d6481b519b0a9f.jpg

The final steps were fiddly but easy enough. Went with cork T seals as the neoprene cheap ones from Britpart snapped despite heaps of grease. Cork much easier to fit.

Another thing to watch is the length of the locating pin for the bottom seal plate. It was too long to get the plate in without taking the bearing cap off again (and the mess that would make) but was able to tap in enough to get the seal in place. Worth checking before you spread hylomar on everything.

Everything torque up and cleaned down. Ready for pistons next.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/bb711a0a0fa0b27639ef4583171b06bd.jpg

It all turns over beautifully by hand.

[67hardtop]

When i built the bottom end on my diesel I had new thrust washers but they were too tight, so I fitted the new one to the main thrust side, flywheel end, and the best old one to the other side and got minimum clearance that way. I bought 1st oversize thrust washers as standard was too loose. So 1 oversize and one standard did the job for me. .003th won't make any difference to the engine running. [emoji16]
I used silastic instead of the "T" seals to seal the main cap. I also used locktite 515 on the new rear seal caps to seal them too. I sealed the flywheel cover onto the block too with silastic and a new "O" ring as well.

[Cadas]

That’s exactly what I ended up doing. Having taken 3 hours to grind down one bearing I took an executive decision and decided one of the old bearings was good enough to reuse. It has much less wear than the thrust side bearing.

That way I could use new bearing on thrust side, old bearing on other side and hit minimum tolerance while achieving the required variance between the two bearings.

[Cadas]

Day 3... Pistons and bits.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191226/29b0f2161f1a0c1ed3e3bc4466b6c28b.jpg

Installing pistons....oodles of assembly lube, all went together well.

Only challenge came from the con rod bolts, some were loose from the machining and positioning them upside down bound from behind was tricky so all bolts got marked for orientation before the positions went in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191226/d12f760fba64af35c491119f8b310f36.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191226/22dbe1a822d679d3d653c4a4773dda3a.jpg

All done and turning nicely.

Camshaft was easy enough, I did test the end float more out of interest than being able to do anything about it. I couldn’t find different thrust plates. In the end it was a thou over which by my reckoning is margin of error so dead on.

I’d made alignment marks as none of the marks described in the manual were in this engine.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191226/d01a683184be44152eed1124fd8df436.jpg

Timing mechanism got a rebuild, clean and lube. Lots of oil ways in this part that have to be clean.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191226/a1867053f3bb7296d677b8d4f21a75ad.jpg

And done for the day. Finished up cleaning and installing the cam followers (all stored safely, in order)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191226/206a7b44180226b3ac1bdf9475eb16b7.jpg

Tomorrow, plan is for the peripherals to go on (oil pump, etc) and the head.

Will have a side job to do to fix a tiny weep of oil from the clutch releases mechanism that I noticed today.

[Cadas]

Day 4 .... slow progress.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191227/dd2965292923d26001ccf5c142812663.jpg

The hard job (according to the manual) is getting the reverse gear in. This was not too bad. Lying the engine on its side on the stand means you can look through the grub screw hole for the corresponding hole in the bush And as soon as you spot any of it, a fine screwdriver holds it still while the gear shaft rotates into place. The gear itself rotates 45 degrees so taking this as a start position means it drops in the correct alignment. I noticed afterwards that there was an engraved mark at the 45 degree point. Point that at cylinder one and it dropped and rotated into place correctly.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191227/a26b22782d860b12f71df8af9d4bbd70.jpg

Oil pump rebuilt earlier went in easily.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191227/d22a7bcceb2727813604bfda4785f9a4.jpg

Then on went the front and water pump. Should have been easy... not. Pain in the **** blue box packaging neatly folds the gaskets for (their !) ease, not mine. The gasket barely fits to begin with but trying to position this when it’s been screwed up in a ball is a pig. Merry Christmas!

Water pump needed all the threads cleaning up with cutters and a few studs removing and refitting. A new water pump had been installed quite recently and not very well. Still all in now. Just missing two bolts to finish it.

Turning ahead to fitting the engine, looking at the leak in the clutch release housing. It looks like a stud has threaded so it’s not tightening. Does anyone know by chance the thread size of the inner end of the lower 1/4” stud.

[Cadas]

Day 4... surprises at Bunnings.

Found the leak in the clutch release housing

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191228/5da5f06dfb70594e14fea193b7fd4ee9.jpg

Another crushed up gasket. Here’s the water pump gasket posted from supplier in the UK via DHL. Fortunately I bought a spare in the UK that survived in my suitcase in better condition

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191228/f40ae1163789dffcf01f4895206e96cf.jpg

Clutch housing was easy enough fix, new gasket, etc. challenge though was the Stripped stud. A new one from the UK was $5 + $60 delivery or I could get one out of the spare gearbox but this is still in other car with engine attached.

Solution was found in Bunnings. They sell 1/4 Whitworth threaded rod (who’d have thunk!). The inner thread on the stud is BSW so it was a five minute job to make a new stud. Sorted.

Cylinder head tomorrow so cleaning the decks ready.

[Cadas]

Day 5.... lots done.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191230/e082fce6af96d6f83383a62af5b61408.jpg

Head has it’s hot soapy shampoo , blow dry and highlights done. Then on to Valves fitting. All straightforward taking it steady. I’ve fired the old tappet set for now until I can get the spare set machined.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191230/36c10e0dae5ae3768add5664c72bf662.jpg

Head went on fine, bit of messing with cleaning and picking the best of the head bolts. Landy #2 had a head gasket go at some point so the bolts were corroded badly about half way down.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191230/b5b9116a0d67f32ba614163d62fbc12e.jpg

Flywheel and clutch again easy enough. Run out on flywheel was perfect. Clutch fitting easy, but I’d bought an all singing and dancing centring tool which required me to align the clutch plate by eye before tightening. Sort of thought that was the tools job.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191230/4b51aca009cdf1bc69928cce48a48e4e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191230/74dfbf73844150bc5e43788373d50ebf.jpg

And we are in. Son’s came to help refit as they helped pull it out. Made one mistake of leaving the engine mounts off to ease alignment, but then had the fun of fitting then in situ. Won’t do that again. It can be done but a five minute job becomes an hour.

Started putting the shiny bits on this evening and hopefully finish that tomorrow.

[Cadas]

Day 4.5.... retreating steps.

Well at 10am this morning it looked like this

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/ab46f3c3b8a2dcf0b6ed3e16db8477d7.jpg

Ready to fire. I’ve put the old carb on as I know it worked (and I haven’t gotten around to rebuilding the solex)

But by this afternoon we were back a few steps with the front of the engine off again.

I had been starting to connect things up to test fire, filling with oil, etc. one hiccup is that I’ve managed to ‘safely put away’ the battery. Can’t find it anywhere.

Fitting the alternator was a challenge as it’s a bit of a shop made affair, fortunately I documented everything and kept every scrap of metal so worked it out in the end.

But big disaster was a missing core plug. There has all been done by the engine shop with a few spare to insert after flushing. Between them missing one and me not realising I had managed to miss the blindingly obvious hole in the front of the engine. Needless to say filling the traitor highlighted the problem.

Not a big job, will have the engine back together in a hour, I’m sure someone stocks a 1-3/8 core plug nearby 🤣

[whitehillbilly64]

I had the same plug missing when mine was done, and didn't realize until i was up to that point.

whitehillbilly

[Cadas]

Thanks... so it’s not just me then.

When I was looking back through photos the missing plug was bleedin’ obvious. Yet I’d stared at that hole for weeks

[Cadas]

156872

We are in business....


https://youtu.be/PpFmhz1SSmI

Been a long few days. After the fun that was the missing welch plug, I started prepping to fire him up. But with the cock up in the plug, I decided to pull the engine out and go over it once more. May have been a good idea as I found a weeping oil plug between the flywheel housing and block caused by a missing washer.

After re-installing the engine I prepped all for starting, buuuuttt..... woke in the middle of the night with horrible thoughts about timing setup. So this morning, off came the front cover again, and I set up the timing according to the manual (dial gauges, EP marks, etc....) . As I'd mentioned before, there were no timing marks at all and I had made some, but in hindsight, I had not made them unamibigous (they could be 180degrees out), nor was I 100% sure that I had checked for TDC. I think I was OK, but now I am sure.

Sooooo, first fire using old carb was a bust, couldn't handle the refurbished fuel pump and it was shooting petrol across the garage.

Rest of the day was then spent rebuilding the old Solex I had and fitting that....

Set up for test fire...

156870

I've done this before holding spanners across terminals and it doesnt end well if things go wrong.. starter relay, ignition on/off swtich and coil.. plus big black starter button. all safe, no shorts and easy to kill.

Few seconds to fill carb and he shot away, the vid is his first run, no timing adjustment or carb tuning, just fresh out of the box. There's more work to do to get him running nicely, but that can wait until after the new rocker gear is machined and I can get an exhaust.

Happy with that!

[Cadas]

hi all, I wonder if anyone can help with a clutch issue before I pull the gearbox out (which is suspect is inevitable)

After nearly 3 months wait a large shoe box arrived from Craddocks with a single brass bush inside for the clutch release shaft. So as i had a few moments spare I thought I'd fit the clutch mechanism, 'cos it's only a five minute job.

Problem I have is that the shaft from the clutch withdrawal mechanism appears to be rotated 90 degrees out of position, so the clutch lever (to the slave) is pointing vertically rather than horizontally as it should.

My assumption here is that I've buggered something up when I rebuilt the clutch withdrawal housing (hence the need to remove the gearbox.....again) but I live in hope that there is another explanation.

By way of update, I had started the bulkhead rebuild and set out with good intentions of patch welding the footwells, but they appear to be made of cheese and melt at the slightest heat so new footwells and door pillar are on the way.

Thanks!

[1950landy]

Do you have a photo of what you are talking about with the clutch?

[Cadas]

Do you have a photo of what you are talking about with the clutch?

Here you go
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200127/094bfc28993ffc772e9b188c343a8170.jpg

With the shaft in place, and rotated so that the pin holes line up in the coupling ( as it enters the bell house) the lever points down ( pointing to about 5 o’clock). This feels too low. The arm on the other Land Rover is horizontal so that the clutch slave will depress it down.

Now if I rotate the lever to the horizontal position, the holes in the coupling are 90 degrees out.

[JDNSW]

I am afraid that you look to have assembled the clutch shaft to the fork incorrectly. The manual specifies how to do this, making it clear that it is possible to get it wrong (reading between the lines!)

What I would be inclined to do is to drill a second set of holes in the coupling sleeve to accomodate the incorrect position of the shaft. This is not going to be easy, as the sleeve is hardened, but it is probably easier than removing the gearbox!

[Cadas]

That was my assumption. Re-reading the manual my guess is that the forks were not tight up against the bearing and so they are now locked onto the shaft in the wrong position.

As there’s no body on the vehicle I’ll pull the gearbox. My concern about drilling the coupling (apart from the access) is working out exactly where to drill. It might not be 90 degrees, it could be 80 and if I’m off, adjustment will be a pig.

Thanks all

[1950landy]

Yes drilling the sleeve is not easy , it is extremely hard , few years back I drilled the sleeve out O/S to fit a larger pin, burnt out around 20 drill bits even using cutting oil & very slow drill. When I did the freshen up recently I replaced the shaft , pin & sleeve . It would probably be quicker to pull the box in the long run.

[JDNSW]

With no body on the vehicle - yes! box out!

[Cadas]

Well mystery solved.

Gearbox out https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/f44fd588b311872e95ee751cc50551de.jpg

To be honest engine is easier, wish I had gone that way instead, still I’m down to half an hour so practice does make perfect.

Problem obvious once apart, https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/e2300c7319b91336a23407eefe7e77dd.jpg
The forks ride on a splined shaft, get those misaligned and it’s stuffed.

Going back over the instructions, for future reference, holes in linkage should be in line with (ie parallel to) and not level with the bearing. Despite there being two lines on the drawing,one parallel, one pointing towards the bearing. Now I’ve taken a gearbox out I can see how that can be misread.

[Cadas]

Gearbox finally went back in this week, work has been busy.

When reassembling the box and clutch levers, once everything was pointing the right way it was easy to get thee pins in. Should have realised at the time that it was to difficult

Now onto bodywork.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/69334ef94cc63dbebfaae44e8dfdc88d.jpg

Door pillar fitted.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/5cca86de25701f79665e1842b889d763.jpg

I spent some time transferring over the old reinforcement plate, has to move the bends a bit to get it to sit nicely and most of the holes line up. Thought the extra steel would be good but I’m also guessing the holes in this are going to be right.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/7c194aab2e9eccb15543578b35a6f51e.jpg

Extending the panel

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/ef3406672bf16037d60c1597b0970352.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/862494d148b9ecd91d1a165bc3e1e96c.jpg

All in temporary, I had to make up new captive nuts and also cradles to hold them.

I had planned originally to patch repair but as I’ve taken it apart, there was a layer of rust between each joint so happy with the change, not happy with the number of spot welds that needed to drilled out. It will get welded tomorrow then onto the other side which only needs a foot well.

[Cadas]

Bulkhead welding now complete
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200211/c70d224595768e135d7f110325435a9d.jpg

Passenger footwell took a bit of messing. The repair panel bends did not line up at all the shape of the existing bulkhead, not having a metal bender (assuming I could even flatten the panel nearly) would mean the new panel would look like a dustbin lid at the end. So I chose to section the panel https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200211/d0f0bcc2a9d184b51956ec26f7ba20f3.jpg
Ready to weld, there are two pieces there with two full length welds to do.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200211/6468a5ca9ac3de34e44507aaae23f5a1.jpg

Welded. Finally getting to grips with the old 3 phase Migomag 315 I pulled out of a demolition site. Huge amounts of power.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200211/0e85e04772413e7b91ca9990521fe375.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200211/905f98bf284e51ee99263b9d8ac64562.jpg

Next stage is filling and sanding.

It’s also been a week for cheap new toys. Picked up two sets of newish whitworth spanners and a socket set today off Facebook. Would have been great during gearbox build.

Also found a clearance item at super cheap auto, https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200211/34f843d5f6542add2b43e664e3d0d909.jpg

Pro brake flare tool, they have then going for $140 ( from $350) delivered. Quality of the flares is a million miles from the ones I made using the cheap tool.

On brakes I found a place in Adelaide selling copper nickel line and original fittings so that’s getting close.

[Cadas]

Sid’s Been a bit neglected of late, work has been a bit nuts this last month.

I did get the brake lines in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200325/859b76c137458eaa332646454f556ef4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200325/4761c86ad222a738b7d1ee4b0f66f6fa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200325/0fd70fa7b820d080f23b51bf57f09470.jpg

And there’s been a lot of prep done on the bulkhead ready for a week off (or maybe 6) over Easter.

I have been stocking uphttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200325/03f29dba4b330fd6541ab2ad533cbd48.jpg
That’s the paint, and there’s a box of parts on its way, if the worst happens then Sid and I will be self isolating for the duration.

[Cadas]

Painting finally underway

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200408/e947306e112987361042fa1110e7fdc7.jpg
First prime now spot fill and flatting. Bulkheads are a pain to sand! Fine sanding pads from Bunnings are ace at the first rough cut.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200408/5a3c2eb4ff79316dc6f3a7c185386744.jpg
Final prime coat. Let that set up and I can get to the exciting bit tomorrow

[1950landy]

That photo of the brake pipes on the rear diff looks like it is over the bump stop pad on the diff . You may want to shift it so it dose not get squashed by the bump stop.

[Cadas]

Thanks, I had to go back and check it after you mentioned it. It’s partly how the picture is taken, it does clear but only just.

Think I’ll make a new one

[Cadas]

Happy bunny today!!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200409/5f1b463993ea8a6e89de5c2bf8a8f92e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200409/f770c42d3917990a6a47af8822fec438.jpg

[Cadas]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200410/6c83fc721bdd58341accd6838a80913f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200410/94acf63add7e7898978c78c70d25eef9.jpg

Even better in the sun!

[flyboy]

Looking good!...and nice colour!

[Homestar]

Oooh, I like that colour. [emoji106]

[Cadas]

Oooh, I like that colour. [emoji106]

Well I wanted orange..... and that’s as orange as it gets.

[Cadas]

Painting over for a while as I've realised that I have a lot or prep work to do for all of the bits and pieces that need painting orange. Unlike the rest of the car so far, i can't prep one/paint one as the set up for that orange paint takes a while, so I have to prep loads and paint loads.

while taking the dash apart I got sidetracked into switches, knobs and gauges...

Ignition switch...159491

cleaning up nicely, but came to fit the new lock barrel from the UK and a problem... key don't fit lock...

159492 that little tab sticking up should be flush, which means the key has a notch where there shouldn't be one. If I can get a new key over the weekend, I'll cut one that fits, otherwise it will go from a 5 lever to a 4 lever lock....

Gauges.. this one came from the spares car as it's the right age, the one in Sid I think is much later. Despite the state of it, the gauge works

159493

159494

Bead blasted

159495

thought this would be a problem

159496

but no, one of those little happy moments..

159497

For those interested, the bolt is from a 2016 Reid ladies bicycle front light., I'll deal with the fallout from that later.

[1950landy]

If you just file the one sticking up down flush it will work . I have made a few of my cars I have had lock alike that way.

[JDNSW]

If you just file the one sticking up down flush it will work . I have made a few of my cars I have had lock alike that way.

Same here. Also doors.

[Cadas]

Work on Sid has been slow going of late, lots of painting and sanding and painting of bits. there's lot of stuff on a dashboard.

Spent a couple of days on and off sorting the vent knobs only to realise they were off a S3 and would have to be fitted upside down. Fortunately the parts car on the drive had a nice set.

160558

stoppy...go bits fitted

160559 theres a palavar rebuilding (and painting) the linkages

But big success is all the hydralics are in. We have a working clutch and brakes.

160560

I was having trouble bleeding the master cylinder and was bracing myself to invest in a pressure bleeder when my Dad in the UK remembered how they used to do it when he looked after these things brand new in Aden way back in his military days...

Bit cheaper and worked brilliantly!!

160561

short length of bicycle inner tube, jubilee clip and bulldog clip. You can top up by removing the bulldog clip and a bike pump gives you enough pressure to work a treat... All brakes bled in 15 minutes.... no mess.

i'd never come across this before but I sure others have.

[Johnno1969]

I love that little apparatus for bleeding the brakes under pressure. Simple and very clever.

John

[Cadas]

Brilliant isn’t it. When my dad mentioned it I sat there thinking ‘eh??’ But after thinking about it for a bit it seemed feasible and for the 2 minutes it took to make it was great.

He also said that they used to have a hose to feed it off the spare tyre. Meant they could repair brakes single handed when out and about and took up no space in the tool box.

[gromit]

Brilliant isn’t it. When my dad mentioned it I sat there thinking ‘eh??’ But after thinking about it for a bit it seemed feasible and for the 2 minutes it took to make it was great.

He also said that they used to have a hose to feed it off the spare tyre. Meant they could repair brakes single handed when out and about and took up no space in the tool box.


Gunsons in the UK make a kit that uses the spare to pressurise, comes with a selection of master cylinder caps.
I have one somewhere, purchased in the UK over 25 years ago.

Eezibleed Kit | Part No. G4062 | Part of the Brakes range from Gunson (http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4062)


Colin

[JDNSW]

Gunsons in the UK make a kit that uses the spare to pressurise, comes with a selection of master cylinder caps.
I have one somewhere, purchased in the UK over 25 years ago.

Eezibleed Kit | Part No. G4062 | Part of the Brakes range from Gunson (http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4062)


Colin

And I'll bet you can't find it when you need it!

[gromit]

And I'll bet you can't find it when you need it!

John,
While I've still got kids at home I commandeer one of them to pump the pedal while I lay underneath shouting instructions....

I did find the bleed kit the other day when looking for a Colourtune (a spark plug with a transparent section so you can see the colour of the combustion). I found three which were used when setting carbys on my Triumph Trident many years back, saved getting burnt fingers swapping the plug from cylinder to cylinder. Also found a set of 3 vacuum gauges, also used for setting up the Trident carbys and a low cost flowmeter also from Gunsons

Colortune See inside the combustion chamber | Tech-Torque | Gunson (http://www.gunson.co.uk/tech-torque/Colortune-See-inside-the-combustion-chamber)
Carbalancer | Part No. G4053 | Part of the Tuning range from Gunson (http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4053)


Colin

[JDNSW]

Strangely, I know what a colourtune is, although I've never owned one.

[Cadas]

Today was a tricky little project.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200511/d8f44c93d460dbc743e6e6a6d93fa524.jpg
Emulsion tube holder from the solex carb I have, missing the top 5-6mm which I’m told is common. Cant find a replacement. So was looking at repair solutions other than casting a new one.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200511/64d33106bdeb3ed4fce5620d1e5324d8.jpg
Bit of 10mm rod

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200511/ebdb5b4e8e1d88dda55b47b0f26ee80c.jpg
I don’t own a lathe (yet...[emoji848]) so had to drill it

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200511/f43a1ed78a885bbc0aa42ef79c41d239.jpg
Two step hole, first 8mm for the bore and then 5mm for the tap

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200511/29d2b374685e636d8822abd420774e3f.jpg
And done.

The old tube is 8.1mm and so it’s a friction fit with a bit of heat. Emulsion tube dropped in and can screw the top jet in tight.

Would ideally like to add a drop of soft solder but haven’t found anywhere to get aluminium flux.

Hopefully this sorts the carb.

[Cadas]

Decided to glue it on using the same retaining fluid that’s holding the gearbox together.

If it’s good enough for a main bearing then I’m sure it will cope with this

[1950landy]

Hope it works for you , Friend of mine had a nut that was holding the spare wheel carrier on the bonnet fall down beside the spark plug on his 80" & when he removed the the plug it fell into the cylinder with out him knowing until he started the motor. It crushed the top ring grove onto the top ring. I suggested he pull the piston out & carefully remove the ring & hopefully not brake it , then machine the grove & refit the ring . All worked well . He made sure he replaced the metal threads with rivets after getting it going again.