View Full Version : discovery issues
Discolns
27th May 2019, 07:24 PM
Hi all,
I have a few issues with my disco 3 2007, firstly the Electronic hand Brake, it being making a shocking sound and from what I read so far, it needs to be looked at by a landrover mech, but two have told me without looking that it will be a replacement $2000. Has any member had just a clean and service done and it corrected the problem?
issue two: tail gate door opener failed so stupid me order a overseas import and to cut a long story short had to solder the wire and guess what the fault has returned, do I go to car electrician and get the job done right or buy a new one again ( been told it is linked to your car vin number, I don't see how)
lee
discovery 3 2007 SE
discovery 2 2001 HSE LOVE YOU BABE
discovery 1 1997 manual - SE
loanrangie
27th May 2019, 08:07 PM
If you search for Bodsy's brake bible on the disco3 UK forum there is a detailed post on how to service the EPB, tailgate issue can only be the actuator or the button so replace either or both should do the trick.
Ferret
27th May 2019, 08:14 PM
The park brake problem is a common fault. It is making a noise because the mechanism which pulls the brakes on is travelling too far. If you continue using your hand brake it will eventually jam. The drum shoes themselves may just need adjusting at this stage.
Search for Bodsy's Brake Bible. You will find instructions to adjust your parking brake drum shoes. You may need to recalibrate the 'Longitudinal travel' as well but you would need access to a GAP tool or similar.
Basically, mechanics replace the units because it easier to do that than fiddly about with them but they can usually be returned to proper service if your reasonably good on the mechanical front.
theelms66
27th May 2019, 08:32 PM
Hi Lee
I have just finished repairing my electric park brake. Like yours , mine sounded like it was grinding itself to pieces . The hardest part is Removing the unit from the Vehicle as You need to Disconnect the cables from the shoes. Once the unit is out remove cover , most likely you will find the threaded shaft attached to the left hand cable will be at full travel and bound up on the splined shaft. The shocking noise you hear is the clutch system in the plastic gears in the gearbox . Yes plastic. Once you have freed the thread you will need to unwind most of the way. This problem stems from brake shoes being out of adjustment allowing cables to travel too far. Mine was on a RRS 2007 but i think they are a D3 anyhow. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190527/a99c937b5314c1f7b0176dc5dd825eaf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190527/8736af8ec67b3dc3ba63ccd94a0d186a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190527/0577ac665e30aef4d1538b26f2564f1c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190527/0824a60d38421aa78a1a43a5f692a4d5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190527/d086c8a0e2cefcf21561fda511481811.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190527/f5c31dd3147e5238a337293317a6e1f1.jpg
Narangga
27th May 2019, 09:56 PM
Hi all,
issue two: tail gate door opener failed so stupid me order a overseas import and to cut a long story short had to solder the wire and guess what the fault has returned, do I go to car electrician and get the job done right or buy a new one again ( been told it is linked to your car vin number, I don't see how)
I bought this recently
Land Rover Discovery 3 Upper Tailgate Actuator FUG500010 - 4WD Industries (https://4wdindustries.com.au/products/land-rover-discovery-3-upper-tailgate-actuator-fug500010?variant=7020810436654)
And it was about half an hour to change. I also changed the lock that it opens in the lower tailgate at the same time as mine was old, worn and dirty.
ATH
1st June 2019, 06:27 PM
My EPB failed recently. 2016 D4 and the noise it made was horrible. Luckily still under warranty so changed by the stealer.... electronic module failure or something.
I never use the "drive through" facility always preferring to manually operate the thing so there shouldn't have been much shoe wear.
Why do the manufacturers insist on "inventing" these crap things to save the lazy driver from having to do anything?
AlanH.
Eric SDV6SE
4th June 2019, 07:39 PM
Just replaced all four rotors and pads on my D4, whilst the rotors were off I cleaned out, lubed and adjusted the rear brake shoes of the EPB. I NEVER use the drive away function, ALWAYS engage/disengage when standing still. The amount of brake dust and dirt inside was still considerable. Used compressed air to clean it out and liberal amounts of brake cleaner. Then used lithium grease on the pivot points and on the adjuster.
All sweet, the EPB engages properly (shoes set slightly closer to the drum no noise and dead easy to adjust. With the wheels off and car on stands, I applied and released the EPB a couple of times after cleaning and putting the new rotors on, then doing the fine adjustment with the transmission in neutral, adjusting until no drag felt on the rotor hub when the EPB is OFF.
151608
ATH
4th June 2019, 07:56 PM
Excellent post Eric. Getting to do my own maintenance on the EPB is one of those things I will be doing in the future. There are some things of course I'll leave to the independent as he's reliable but I do like doing my own thing where possible.
Cheers.
AlanH.
PerthDisco
4th June 2019, 08:04 PM
Don’t forget the water hose in the adjustment hole technique for a brake dust and crud wash out. Works a treat.
Dagilmo
5th June 2019, 08:37 AM
Don’t forget the water hose in the adjustment hole technique for a brake dust and crud wash out. Works a treat.
As straight forward as it sounds? Wheel off. Take out small plastic cap/plug. Stick hose in/over hole and hose?
PerthDisco
5th June 2019, 09:00 AM
As straight forward as it sounds? Wheel off. Take out small plastic cap/plug. Stick hose in/over hole and hose?
Yep, I had similar trepidation when advised but it works a treat. Run water into hole. Crud flows out. Clearly it’s open to the elements.
I reckon you could apply a few squirts of CRC after on the adjustor bits if you were keen.
theelms66
5th June 2019, 09:03 AM
Dont park it up for a week just after you hose them out . Drive it to eliminate as much moisture as possible
Eric SDV6SE
5th June 2019, 09:18 AM
Yes, the EPB is open to the outside from the rear plate. Squirting CRC or wd40 in through the adjustment hole would be hit and miss, as the hole needs to line up with the adjuster. You would just as soon be spraying a lubricant onto the brake pad of the EPB, defeating the purpose of its function. Hose out is a good idea, but for lubing the pivot and adjuster, best way is to take the caliper and brake rotor off and cleaning it up properly. I've owned my D4 for over 5 years and this is the first adjustment I've done, little effort required in the scheme of things.
PerthDisco
5th June 2019, 09:51 AM
Yes lining up for squirt as per adjust method.
Mines MY08 and I’ve had the screech and alarm twice over time. Each time it released after restart. Keep it adjusted well now. Cleaned it out once when I changed discs and again with hose and not had a problem. Never rebuilt or properly lubed it.
I used to not use it in fear but now use it a lot (never off-road) but never drive off with it on.
It’s never seen mud though.
Best holding power of any park brake I’ve ever seen.
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