#137B 2A FC rebuild

[cjc_td5]

A month ago I saw a Forward Control landy come up for sale only 10 minutes drive away. I've been after one of these for ages and couldn't let this opportunity pass....

So off for a look see, and a couple of days later picked up this.

This won't be a "rivet counter's" restoration. This will be a rebuild with quite a few modifications in the name of useability. I want a reliable long distance touring vehicle with a heap of space up back for a canopy body. Some mods will be:
- Toyota 60 series axles for a 150mm+ track increase.
- Isuzu diesel with 5 speed box.
- Modest cab extension.
- Power steering
...

Bring on the fun!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/4d184001949e004fbd4fea2f5a0e3bb1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/e1534998cd70c616b7270edf99d12210.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/bb30b5237c381f0b5057ac8800e02f98.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Within a week it looked like this.

There are a few rust sections in the chassis. All patchable.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/8b4ebaed4d8101735616a166149c12c9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/78d29c12a34298f993ebe5b201298b8c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/b0468fdac5e84056d18b6a220ef14a8b.jpg

[cjc_td5]

And now it looks like this. Chassis blasted and primed. Now I can see what I'm dealing with.

This weekend I'm having a crack at removing the spring chassis bushes. Fun fun fun.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/5e777d487adc705cfec669236712a262.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/399102f6202c25be40c409debeba365c.jpg

[101RRS]

Great find but aren't they so ugly - not like a 101 [thumbsupbig].

I hope it all goes well [bigsmile1].

Garry

[cjc_td5]

Great find but aren't they so ugly - not like a 101 [thumbsupbig].

I hope it all goes well [bigsmile1].

Garry

Hahaha. I'll stand out that's for sure! I think a modest bullbar will break up the front "ugliness" a fair bit.

[cjc_td5]

Home made bush extractor in use. 2 down, 2 to go. The last front one is going to be fun. The bolt is seized solid in the bush. Hopefully I can drill through the rubber with a hole saw with no centering bit.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200523/333a1ecd21639393b8893bb9d63fbccc.jpg

[JDNSW]

A circle of 5-6mm holes through the rubber should work.

[Homestar]

Looking forward to this build. 👍

Sounds like the upgrades will give you a great vehicle. 😊

[cjc_td5]

Be off with you, you little ****s.
Glad that job's (half) done.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200523/59a479ac398fb24b815050e72b49142e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200523/5c74c5e61f384050d4ab79955cc7bc6b.jpg

[p38arover]

Nice! It looks like a fairly substantial chassis. I'm not sure that it will flex that much when off-roading! :)

Will you use it as a trayback ute or make it into a camper?

[cjc_td5]

Nice! It looks like a fairly substantial chassis. I'm not sure that it will flex that much when off-roading! :)

Will you use it as a trayback ute or make it into a camper?Thanks.
I plan to put a tray on it, possibly aluminium to try to keep the weight down. Then build a slide on camper/canopy for the back. This will retain flexibility for a variety of uses.

[cjc_td5]

For the sake of history, a few details of the FC that I know of.
It is a 1963 2A Forward Control, chassis number 30100137B.
It has (had) a Rover 6 cylinder engine and ENV rear axle, but Rover front axle.

It appears to have been originally a PMG vehicle. PMG sign writing is still visible on the doors. There is a guy on FB who has stated that PMG had (approx 18) of these when they were constructing the telephone lines across the Nullarbor. They had scaffolding frames on the back so that they could install the pole top furniture from the rear of the vehicle.

Mine has (had) a timber framed flat deck on the back. There was no evidence of any hinges or other fittings where side boards had been fitted.

I'll post a few "as found" photos separately.

Cheers,

[cjc_td5]

1. Timber framed tray.
2. Rear step rung.
3. Interior. Quite a lux interior with full ceiling trim, door pockets etc.
4. Elephant Hide pattern seats?
5. Rover 6 cylinder (with SU carb).https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200524/4203c20a8a55f303f91e5c70ebc0ccbf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200524/ddd4dc8cb599d832c2881fe0c9fcabdf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200524/221c66475ad2552b894f1e1e3b9f77c7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200524/e518028c20fd80c39440ebf43ef653a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200524/0bf18eb07722f7fd7b9925c032ae19d2.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Got the chassis off the car trailer. I've grabbed some spare castors and slab of timber to make a simple trolley to help move it around.

Then it was off with the rear cross member. It's too bent and badly hacked with a welder to be reused. I'll get a new one bent up as a channel section with some 5mm plate. The inside of the chassis at this end doesn't look too bad.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/79911082333dbc1c8937481aa627677f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/1e6101c9f8f51dd2c72d1c13a5f043c5.jpg

[cjc_td5]

A few small things being happening over the last couple of weeks. Paid work keeps getting in the way of progress....

I've got a Rakeway LT230 input shaft on its way from the UK. Looking forward to seeing it as I've heard of a couple of stories of parcels from CV19 countries being rejected by our customs.

Modified the toyota diff pinion flange in the lathe to accept a LR prop shaft flange layout.

Got my new folded rear cross member. Now have to fill in the ends and add some strengthening before welding it on.

Being working on the rear axle. The old spring perches have been removed, and todays job is to fab up some new perches to suit the LR spring spacing. They won't be welded on until I do a trial mock up so that I can get the diff and transfer flanges parallel.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200613/b683bf7b00f81a061fc261e1297a2498.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200613/1e6d87715ea3bda462e34a043fe784e5.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Repaired the first rust area. The outrigger itself is not required so I've converted it to the sloped style hanger.

The base of the outrigger was rusted through to above the spring hanger. But the steel that holds the hanger itself is sound and some new 5mm plate can only improve things... At least it has good ventilation now and I'll be sure to keep it clean from underneath.

My MIG is on back order. Hopefully it'll be here this week.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200613/1b3399225064639c7eddbd153049ea18.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200613/e827bbea7514ac558126daf1f32fd0df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200613/99f221452ff4d7817c4e56fa5194ced5.jpg

[cjc_td5]

The 4JH1 engine I have sourced was known to have a few issues. The wrecker found it seized when he was removing it and essentially gave it to me for free (took a heap off the price of the engine & gearbox combo I bought). I decided it was time to go looking to see if it was saveable.

I was expecting a seized piston but it looks like a big end bearing has let go and spat the cap off? There is no noticeable scoring in the bores or piston damage. With any luck I may get away with just a crankshaft grind and undersize journals? Time to split the box off and get the engine up on a stand for a good look...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200622/737203ae4d9a8df0b153f1625f9ec9a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200622/d281e17a80149e1df966c03462744ca8.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Trial fit up of proposed gearbox - LT230 adaptor. There's a Rakeway input shaft and 1310 series uni and flange on to the original gearbox output flange (with hand brake removed from rear of box). Apart from potentially some triangular gussetting at the bases of the SHS struts to handle torque loads, have I missed anything here? The drivetrain will be supported on the std engine mounts, the top gearbox mount, and 2 mounts on the transfer case.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200719/8ae8500b1d046a89f7eb3a9cb830687c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200719/ffdc4683cc797613be3bd3e815bf0079.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200719/848969f2992b5f86f42b22500c765ed5.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Am making headway tidying up the chassis. The strengthening strips on the underside of the chassis above the rear axle had rust under them and had bulged. So they were cut off and new strips of 5mm flat bar welded along the bottom of the chassis box. I've got a couple more rust holes to cut out and patch, then weld on a new rear cross member, then it'll be some paint and get some springs and axles on it!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200725/fd396d5b70032416d0c0741804515640.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200725/b14e039c69a3d19cd207fd3bf5f315c5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200725/ec14d45888f2225e0acb13ede57b9067.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Picked this up today. One of the last pieces for the drivetrain puzzle. It has the 2.8l 4JB1 engine for me to pilfer the timing casings and gears, and injector pump and plumbing. It also gives me a source of 12v alternator and starter etc if the 24v stuff on my donor engine becomes problematic.

One of my local Isuzu nutter friends will probably take the block & crank to make up a bitza motor for himself.

$500 well spent.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/6138685fa6bb7e7ccc953acffb011f7e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/86853d6f75c6125e6792ea68fb83366d.jpg

[cjc_td5]

I've been having a play in CAD with possible cabin layouts etc.

First one is in tray-back configuration.
Then I plan to build a slide-on camper for the tray. Probably a "tailgate" style camper where the rear wall folds down to form the floor for a canvas tent canopy, with a pop-top main roof and the bed on top of the main box.

163304

163305

[cjc_td5]

A bit of rust/rot.
Hopefully my last major patch, then I can concentrate on the chassis mods... [emoji2957]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200815/e5e3a9d2a2d8f005061505151fbeb93a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200815/674ba60395948e553a93d42199bf9ce9.jpg

[cjc_td5]

And new walls tacked in. Base and full welding is tomorrow's job.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200815/4672b85852bda2cbac2637cd819becee.jpg

[86mud]

Great find and great work Chris. I've only just stumbled onto this thread, but glad I did.

I don't think they are ugly! At least it has a little more aerodynamics than the 101 [thumbsupbig]

Looking forward to watching your project.

Ps...I have had great success with landrover parts from England during the Covid crisis. I've ordered from Ashcrofts, Turners and LRparts.net and all packages have arrived within 7 - 10 days all via DHL express. Must faster then getting packages out of Melbourne via Australia post.

Cheers

[cjc_td5]

Rear axle test fitted. The spring perches are not welded on until I confirm the pinion angles on the prop shaft.

Front axle perches are nearly finished. I put the sump on the engine today, so then to tighten down the head, install the flywheel and clutch, then join up to the boxes. Then I might be ready to test fit it in the chassis! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200903/c8ea8511f1e9c4bc3837c324c04a23c0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200903/b30035ed0c40f3d3a654f890f4da70c0.jpg

[cjc_td5]

I had a good chat to the modifications engineer whilst in Perth yesterday.

I needed to confirm the Toyota axle capacities to preserve my GVM. Slunnie on here knows a bit about them and found me a 60 series Toyota sales brochure that gives the axle capacities as high enough for a 3.5T GVM. Hopefully that one can be ticked off.

Brakes wise, I convinced him that a load sensitive proportioning valve was not fitted to 60 series cruisers (at least in OZ) so I don't need one of them. If I can fit a booster and MC under the snub bonnet I will run a complete 60 series dual circuit boosted system. If I have to run a remote booster then things are a bit more complicated, with the booster on the front discs only with rear drums unassisted. A brake test will determine if another booster is required on the rear circuit. I can also run a chassis mounted manual proportioning valve on the rear circuit so that the rears can be adjusted if they are locking up unloaded.

He was unfazed by the engine conversion and my intention to replace the rotary injector pump with an earlier mechanical pump. There are no emission stds for 1963 and as long as its not belching black smoke he's happy.

I need to confirm the chassis is mild steel for welding etc. Have to do some research on that one, or get a flame test done on a sample.

The engine upgrade will trigger seat belts, demister etc, but I'm doing all of those anyway.

Anyway, he answered a few grey areas and has given me a clear path forward. Lets go!

[Homestar]

Sounds promising. Given the age of the vehicle and the size of the chassis I would think almost any engine that can physically fit would be ok and pass Engineering. [emoji106]

[Tote]

If you have to go with boosted front discs and an unboosted drum rear it's not the end of the world, particularly with a truck body. My XT Falcon ute performs pretty well set up that way.

Regards

Tote

[Homestar]

If you have to go with boosted front discs and an unboosted drum rear it's not the end of the world, particularly with a truck body. My XT Falcon ute performs pretty well set up that way.

Regards

Tote

Agreed - in my 101 the rear brakes do nothing around 99% of the time - the propositioning valve doesn't even begin to open until there's around 300Kg in the back, which isn't often. Front brakes pull it up very well - the new discs, doubly so, but even with the drums up front, it stopped pretty well when they were adjusted properly.

I did try and adjust the proportioning valve once to bring in the rears sooner - with, um, shall we say 'interesting' results - requiring a change of undies when I got home. [biggrin]

Had a passenger while doing this - Mick Marsh - here's a link to his post about his thoughts on the brake test - https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-and-variations/175280-gavs-101-a-26.html#post2329858 [biggrin]

Should be post 540 if I've done that right...

[cjc_td5]

Agreed - in my 101 the rear brakes do nothing around 99% of the time - the propositioning valve doesn't even begin to open until there's around 300Kg in the back, which isn't often. Front brakes pull it up very well - the new discs, doubly so, but even with the drums up front, it stopped pretty well when they were adjusted properly.

I did try and adjust the proportioning valve once to bring in the rears sooner - with, um, shall we say 'interesting' results - requiring a change of undies when I got home. [biggrin]

Had a passenger while doing this - Mick Marsh - here's a link to his post about his thoughts on the brake test - https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-and-variations/175280-gavs-101-a-26.html#post2329858 [biggrin]

Should be post 540 if I've done that right...Thanks Gav. Looking at it today there is definitely not enough room under the short bonnet to fit a conventional booster & MC, so a remote booster on the front discs circuit it will be.

So much to think through. Brakes, cooling, fuel system, power steering, seats.... Got to take small steps or it'll do my head in! Good fun, but I need more time for fun crap like this!

How did you end up doing the power steering on your 101? Electric and running the std box and linkages. I'm keen to get my front axle in so I can nut mine out. Got a D1 steering box here, to be swung around and mounted on the outside of the chassis rail with the input shaft facing forward, then use a defender steering column and through a couple of unis and a bevel box to get the steering shaft to the box.

[cjc_td5]

If you have to go with boosted front discs and an unboosted drum rear it's not the end of the world, particularly with a truck body. My XT Falcon ute performs pretty well set up that way.

Regards

ToteThanks Tote. Good to know.

[Homestar]

Thanks Gav. Looking at it today there is definitely not enough room under the short bonnet to fit a conventional booster & MC, so a remote booster on the front discs circuit it will be.

So much to think through. Brakes, cooling, fuel system, power steering, seats.... Got to take small steps or it'll do my head in! Good fun, but I need more time for fun crap like this!

How did you end up doing the power steering on your 101? Electric and running the std box and linkages. I'm keen to get my front axle in so I can nut mine out. Got a D1 steering box here, to be swung around and mounted on the outside of the chassis rail with the input shaft facing forward, then use a defender steering column and through a couple of unis and a bevel box to get the steering shaft to the box.

I ditched the standard box as they are a known weak point in the 101 - about the only thing that is. I used a PS box from a Navara, mounted to a plate welding onto the chassis on an angle - strong and simple. The standard Navara Pitman arm picks up the 101's standard drag link with a taper adapter to match that up. A modified series 3 column then goes to a bevel box from a forward control people moved to change the direction of the steering 90 degrees and that meets straight into the PS box. Old steering relay is removed. Good think about it all is it can be taken back to factory manual steering in around 2 hours if needed, so apart from one plate welded in, nothing else is disturbed and the plate isn't in the way of anything else. Engineer liked it too - there's at least 4 x 101's running this style of PS in Australia that I know of.

[cjc_td5]

I ditched the standard box as they are a known weak point in the 101 - about the only thing that is. I used a PS box from a Navara, mounted to a plate welding onto the chassis on an angle - strong and simple. The standard Navara Pitman arm picks up the 101's standard drag link with a taper adapter to match that up. A modified series 3 column then goes to a bevel box from a forward control people moved to change the direction of the steering 90 degrees and that meets straight into the PS box. Old steering relay is removed. Good think about it all is it can be taken back to factory manual steering in around 2 hours if needed, so apart from one plate welded in, nothing else is disturbed and the plate isn't in the way of anything else. Engineer liked it too - there's at least 4 x 101's running this style of PS in Australia that I know of.Sounds similar to my plan. So a bevel box from something like a Hiace van? I didn't realise the vans had them.

At this stage I was going to leave the relay in the chassis. It's a ***** to remove and like you it would will mean that the std steering system is easy to reinstate if required.

[Homestar]

I don't actually know what the bevel box was from but uses Toyota steering unis as I grabbed a couple of extras from a old Corona wreck but I think Camrys, etc all have the same ones - they were just easier to remove on the old banger that was there. Probably a large range of Japanese stuff uses the same splines...

Maybe a Tarago? I'll go take a look in the garage - I have another one I grabbed out of something in a mates yard that was written off a few years back - if it's suitable and I can find it, it's yours for the price of postage.

[Homestar]

Good news is I found the box with all the steering stuff in and I'm pretty sure it's in there - bad news is it's right at the back of my parts shed buried under almost a complete series 3 (well all the parts to build one minus the panels and chassis).

I'll report back later - I'm going to go and do battle and sort a few things out. Just need to find a baseball bat to deal with some of the bigger critters that are likely to be in there - most 8 legged and larger than a bowling ball... [biggrin]

[Homestar]

Survived! Have it right here - PM sent. [smilebigeye]

[cjc_td5]

Got axles under it at last! Even if only temporarily until I confirm the pinion angles when I get the drivetrain and prop shafts in.

Cab temporarily placed to see how the wheel offset works.

Now to finish assembling the engine and gearbox so I can swing them in to position.

The wheels are temporary. Looking for 33-35" tyres but they can only be max 265 width to fit in the spare tyre position. All common tyre sizes this diameter seem to be 300mm+ width? It would have had 900r16s on it originally.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200912/b3cecfd6b3826624d5f59da82b3c3c9b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200912/b09747aa25d59b429a4f5d7f2d601300.jpg

[Homestar]

900 16’s pose a bit of an issue these days. Width wise the Michielin 255/100/16 (tel:255/100/16) would give you something usable although in 35” like what I ran on the 101 when I bought it, but there are dear as poison. The lack of viable options is why I widened my rims and went for the 285/75/16 I’m running now and built a rear wheel carrier.

Check out the thread that’s been running in the 101 forum for some time - 9.00 16 Tyres (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-and-variations/50234-9-00-16-tyres.html)

[cjc_td5]

900 16’s pose a bit of an issue these days. Width wise the Michielin 255/100/16 (tel:255/100/16) would give you something usable although in 35” like what I ran on the 101 when I bought it, but there are dear as poison. The lack of viable options is why I widened my rims and went for the 285/75/16 I’m running now and built a rear wheel carrier.

Check out the thread that’s been running in the 101 forum for some time - 9.00 16 Tyres (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-and-variations/50234-9-00-16-tyres.html)Yeh Gav I'm finding that. I want to run a conventional tray so don't want a rear mounted spare. Really trying to avoid having to hack in to the chassis & subframe to fit a wider tyre in to its original position. Another potential spot could be vertically in front of the head board, but this eats in to cab room or tray length...

I need to recalculate the gearing and see what tyre diameter I should be aiming for, for a target RPM at 100km/h. Given the OEM tyre sizes on the donor toyota and Isuzu, I may find 35" is too big anyway...
C

[cjc_td5]

Engine and boxes placed in to the chassis today.

I recall that the rear output from the transfer case was about level with the bottom of the chassis rail. When I set this transfer case at the same level, the mounting looks very low, as it will need a crossmember under this. I've got about 10 degrees shift through the shaft unis so got a bit more available if I need it.

A bit more of an issue at the front. The shaft is VERY close to the bellhousing. At full front compression it will hit. I can lower the transfer case, but see above??? The engine can't be lifted any further as it's v close to the seat box.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/244ff09277c82a7f20f310123db17eb8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/c13c9dee78d1a7d1b8a9596b8fd14d79.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/593c9cf4adb99920ea5bca1d3f443d97.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Mmmm, decisions. I have a D1 front shaft in the rear at the moment. This puts the inlet plenum just behind the seat box. A series rear shaft will fit in the front with a 50mm spacer. I can put the std series front shaft on the rear, which will shift everything back 50mm, or even a 86" front shaft which will move everything a further 50mm back. But that will generate a huge spacer for the front shaft or to go custom... Mmmmm? More space for the engine vs stock shafts???https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/07417138e82c562972eadd174bf4ca51.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Conundrums...
I set up the engine and drivetrain so I could run a std 88/109" front drive shaft in the rear. This positioned the engine abt 200mm back from where it would normally be, just behind the seat box. This has advantages in terms of noise, seat height mounting options and moving weight rearwards. My issue is that the rear driveshaft has about 10 degrees of deflection through it. A bit high but I don't know if TOO high?? If I move the engine forward it only reduces to 8 degrees and I need custom driveshafts made.

At the front I've had to have a custom mid-mount bearing shaft made to clear the bellhousing. Moving the engine forward doesn't avoid this conflict.

How much is too much deflection angle in the rear driveshaft???

Another option would be to rotate the rear axle up so that the pinions were not parallel but equal angle in the opposite direction?? Obviously as soon as the spring height changed with loading, the angles would go out of whack...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201205/fe17d173e0e3df7044b694e33a9a8f3b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201205/4d43f4706d314fdd6d361ab863c149b5.jpg

[101RRS]

Looks much the same as a 101 rear drive shaft - they are very steep but work OK. Remember the 101 is mid engined with the shorter 101 wheelbase.

[Homestar]

Agree - the 101 is very similar if not worse than that. The front of the 101 is much worse.

[cjc_td5]

Looks much the same as a 101 rear drive shaft - they are very steep but work OK. Remember the 101 is mid engined with the shorter 101 wheelbase.
Agree - the 101 is very similar if not worse than that. The front of the 101 is much worse.Thanks guys. I've been suffering a major case of mid-build jitters over the last few days, wondering if I'd mucked up big time? Looks like I'm maybe not ripping everything out again....

[101RRS]

If it becomes an issue - lower the rear gearbox mounts a tad and whip out the rear axle housing and rotate it up so the tailshaft goes straight into the rear diff rather than at an angle.

Easy peasy [thumbsupbig]

[Homestar]

I’ll crawl under the 101 tomorrow and measure the prop angles if you want - I had it out today but had put it away again by the time I read this.

Just having a read and max normal operating angles seem to commonly be based on length of shaft and operating RPM. Running some numbers on say 36” tyres and 4.11 diffs (not sure what yours are, just having a guess) then at 100KPH your prop shaft is spinning about 2,450RPM if I’ve done my math right which suggests a normal operating angle around 8 degrees but at 2,000RPM it’s around 10 degrees. Given a uni joint can operate at around 30 degrees I think 10 is absolutely fine for a vehicle like this.

[cjc_td5]

I’ll crawl under the 101 tomorrow and measure the prop angles if you want - I had it out today but had put it away again by the time I read this.It would be great if you could do that, whenever you got a chance to. Just to see if I'm in the right ballpark. I presume a 101 uses the same Hardy Spicer 1300 series unis as a "normal" LR?

[Homestar]

It would be great if you could do that, whenever you got a chance to. Just to see if I'm in the right ballpark. I presume a 101 uses the same Hardy Spicer 1300 series unis as a "normal" LR?

I think so, but not 100% sure. I’ve got a custom unit in the front as the standard ones rumble something chronic on over run. Currently a double/single with larger unis it will soon be a double/double as Inhave another double carden joint for the other end now. This has reduced issues no end but I’m guessing this angle is much more severe that what you’re looking at.

Will get some pics and angles in the morning. [emoji106]

[cjc_td5]

Been a productive couple of weeks fabricating and welding the FC chassis. New rear transom on, made upper mounts for future rear airbag helpers, new spare tyre outrigger, gearbox crossmember, engine mounts, and power steering box mount. 95% there.

My aim was to have a painted chassis by new year. I might just make it...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201227/7579072b8e4f5e64713aebde928b5ed9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201227/ef00a177e76f4f85f11c43943ccf81bd.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Chassis painted! Finally had a day calm enough for spray painting...

Only 1 way onwards from here, forward, adding stuff on!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210111/fbecb74a38e0ebbe9230df7a412ec1da.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210111/423f2f4d71026b831e38bb3a6c6b96ef.jpg

[101RRS]

A chassis on a chassis - only a tight arse Brit would come up with a monstrosity like that.

Great work you are doing [thumbsupbig].

[cjc_td5]

A chassis on a chassis - only a tight arse Brit would come up with a monstrosity like that.

Great work you are doing [thumbsupbig].Ha. I look at it as they've already provided the longitudinal rails for the rear tray. An "integrated" design feature.... [emoji16]

[101RRS]

Ha. I look at it as they've already provided the longitudinal rails for the rear tray. An "integrated" design feature.... [emoji16]

A muther always thinks their baby is cute [thumbsupbig]

[cjc_td5]

Got the bulkhead painted today. Rover Mid Grey, the original colour. Looking forward to getting it reunited with the chassis so I can start bolting stuff on.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210318/75c452331a5ac5f88dbc4bb67b05fe2c.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Had a bit of a play today. Bolted up a spare windscreen, sides and roof, to see how the lines look and visualise how the cab extension might work. The extended cab will be about to where the blue steel section is sitting on the chassis, or just forward of where I cut the side panels.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210327/11e0190e41ef48d2fc26279a524ed338.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210327/c10790f7362597a50d04e9ec31722d6b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210327/620cbb4395b6e0a1541a5ba6f053163f.jpg

[86mud]

looking good Chris.

Will you use Series 2 wagon rear doors?

[cjc_td5]

looking good Chris.

Will you use Series 2 wagon rear doors?Hi mate. Thanks.
It'll be a "space cab" style cabin, similar to my sketches in post #21 in this thread. So yes, a fair chunk of that roof will be trimmed off in due course.
C

[whitehillbilly64]

Looks Great.
Mate added a extended cab to his Stage 1.
Try and get some pics.

whitehillbilly

[cjc_td5]

Radiator mounted up. I have used a Toyota 1HZ 75 series radiator as they are narrow enough to fit between the foot wells and also readily available. Rubber mounted using the std radiator mounts.

A thermo fan fitted from a BF Falcon, being the go to retro fit fan for hot rods etc. Seems quiet enough and pulls a heap of air. I made up a shroud surround up using cut and folded 1.0mm gal steel sheet.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210502/8c31f2ca0647b32dea711ce8a2e31ae0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210502/c3ef39c3877791729935f09d414d4c04.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210502/aa15358b7e8c7d27ed8c176c3a6f6485.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Power steering is pretty much finished. Toyota 60 series box, mix and match of Toyota pattern shafts, hiace bevel box and a swap to Rover pattern shaft through the rag joint, to a RRC steering column. Std Isuzu pump on the motor. Hopefully the pressures etc all agree with each other...

Accelerator pedal also done. The std series pedal has a shaft through to the central footwell area. But this area is taken by the radiator. So I brought the shaft out through other the side of the footwell and made up a bracket to hold the cable. There is a small void here next to the side panel. It seems to work great. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210502/6568a107ff72d96d1de75f50aef7b6ef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210502/c3f9af5901811e5eb6a003809a13f56d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210502/2e1d553f0ad858736f8156822bc47749.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Air filter mounted up. Its from a NPR truck so certainly big enough... It did require resetting of the mounting bracket angle to get the inlet pointing vertically up.

I 3D printed an adaptor for the top to reduce from 160mmdia down to 89mm for the intake pipe. This will govern the rear of my cabin as the intake pipe will run straight up the exterior of the cabin to a Ram inlet above roof level. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210502/8a6caf8746d490638d6bc724d4570dea.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210502/15c8405a3494d2f44ff3030060926b3b.jpg

[Homestar]

You're not mucking about now are you? [smilebigeye]

Was just wondering the other day how you were going with this and if we'd see an update soon - you've certainly been busy. [thumbsupbig]

[86mud]

nice work Chris. The steering is a work of art

[cjc_td5]

nice work Chris. The steering is a work of artThanks mate. It took many trips to a wrecking yard measuring up cruisers and then vans to sus out what would work...

[cjc_td5]

Gave myself an afternoon off today and finished off the intercooler pipes. They all fell in place quite nicely. Just need to get a batch of T clamps.... Tomorrow will be take it all apart again and paint everything.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210604/1c7f57ba21b8913d5f31de74f15a99cd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210604/5755ec25cf7f555d312a5842cf00eea8.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Got side tracked and have 3D printed a centre cap for the steering wheel. It's the little things... [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210604/5902baf0c259702209cf71cf09e04512.jpg

[101RRS]

Gave myself an afternoon off today and finished off the intercooler pipes. They all fell in place quite nicely. Just need to get a batch of T clamps.... Tomorrow will be take it all apart again and paint everything.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210604/5755ec25cf7f555d312a5842cf00eea8.jpg

So how do you find having to climb up and down on the vehicle all day long when you are working on your vehicle - particularly if you drop a spanner or a small nut - is one of the annoying things with the 101 - a decent climb up and a decent jump down, not helped by the fact I have no where to park mine other than a sloping drive - I can get it into the garage but I have to take the top off and let the tyres down and then it is too wide to move around it.

It looks like you are making great progress - I have some work over here for you when you are finished [thumbsupbig] - better still before you are finished.

Garry

[cjc_td5]

So how do you find having to climb up and down on the vehicle all day long when you are working on your vehicle - particularly if you drop a spanner or a small nut - is one of the annoying things with the 101 - a decent climb up and a decent jump down, not helped by the fact I have no where to park mine other than a sloping drive - I can get it into the garage but I have to take the top off and let the tyres down and then it is too wide to move around it.

It looks like you are making great progress - I have some work over here for you when you are finished [thumbsupbig] - better still before you are finished.

GarryIt's more getting down low that stuffs me. The usual lay down on the garage creeper, then realise that crap, the spanner is still up on the bench... Get back up again with knees creaking... And repeat several times a day.

It'll need a step or two to access the cab easily. Probably a hub step and a solid one in front of it incorporated in to the side panel/bar mounts.

[86mud]

Nice progress Chris.

[cjc_td5]

I spent the weekend reimagineing the heater box for the FC. The std S3 heater box fouled with the snub bonnet and radiator mounts. The original heat exchanger was used and heater fan was swung through 90 degrees. I'll run a 90 degree elbow and put a S3 air inlet in the side panel.

I'm of the old school for heater control. A simple plumbing gate valve, on in winter, off in summer.

Radiator expansion bottle also mounted up.

Small steps moving forward...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210704/7fc6668ac652456052a99a67b5e89e90.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210704/70fa11811d23abfde0544d7aa89e76a6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210704/5fb6adbde96a31df43b3f8ef8657d7d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210704/9385ddb9549a3a864fcfc6e9913e1d42.jpg

[86mud]

Nice update!

[cjc_td5]

Had a quick 1 hour play this afternoon knocking up a replacement side panel. Wow, I surprise myself sometimes! A bit of massaging and it might just look ok. The original panels are pretty rough, so even with giving them a touch up here and there, its not going to be a factory new look.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/def57176d6d27d5f7c4d909ec92c5146.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/053165b11e5a21da72fbee06ea629357.jpg

[cjc_td5]

The fun toy that I've been playing with...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/02741275f4533957976254e846c3408b.jpg

[JDNSW]

Had a quick 1 hour play this afternoon knocking up a replacement side panel. Wow, I surprise myself sometimes! A bit of massaging and it might just look ok. The original panels are pretty rough, so even with giving them a touch up here and there, its not going to be a factory new look.

What makes you think the factory finish was any better? Series Landrovers were built as work vehicles, not show ponies. And panel fit and finish was nothing like as good as some of the "restored" ones I have seen lately!

[cjc_td5]

What makes you think the factory finish was any better? Series Landrovers were built as work vehicles, not show ponies. And panel fit and finish was nothing like as good as some of the "restored" ones I have seen lately!Hi John.
Fully agree with you there. I build my vehicles to be used. I don't mind a scratch or dent or two in the name of fun.

I was more amazed with myself that a quick play with the folder got such a great result first up. The top & bottom edges are folded as well, which was fun around the small radius at the front.
Cheers Chris.

[cjc_td5]

Partially fitted the remote brake booster up this afternoon. Ran the last brake line after this photo was taken. Hopefully only a few small adjustments and some saddles to fab up, then that's all done...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210717/142fb995fb54f558dd66db7e935764f8.jpg

[cjc_td5]

It's getting busy under that tiny bonnet! There's a brake booster, brake & clutch MCs, power steering reservoir, radiator with inlet should, windscreen washer bottle, intercooler, rad. expansion bottle, & heater box. Phew... Just about finished under there except for the electrics.

Now to remake the bonnet frame. I hope to salvage the shaped stiffeners off the original frame. Its going to take a heap of pushing and fiddling to get it all remotely square. Then again, it is a seriesl landy... [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/2f9a7b505a6be3f1dd9f7bbd88206ce4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/0fe301f967bb074fbe96ec2c5aa4fced.jpg

[Homestar]

Nice work - all that stuff lives inside the cabin and foot wells in a 101 - would love to have a tiny bonnet. [emoji106]

[101RRS]

Nice work - all that stuff lives inside the cabin and foot wells in a 101 - would love to have a tiny bonnet. [emoji106]

Not if it is going to look as ugly as a Series 2A FC does [bigrolf].

[cjc_td5]

Have tacked up the new bonnet frame. To be welded up tomorrow. Then to try to get a new Aluminium skin on it! Looking forward to that!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210813/5a655643858e4e0e9b0987353405e331.jpg

[101RRS]

I like your work - nice stuff [thumbsupbig]

Garry

[Don 130]

[QUOTE=cjc_td5;3102787]Have tacked up the new bonnet frame. To be welded up tomorrow. Then to try to get a new Aluminium skin on it! Looking forward to that!

Your nifty folder should come in handy for the edges!
Don.

[cjc_td5]

We've had a long weekend here, so a few opportunities to grab some shed time a move things along...

Bolted up the rear tow loops and tow bar backing plate. I've also drawn up a plate to hold the rear tail lights which I'll get plasma cut.

Just about finished the battery tray. Welded it up including battery locating tabs etc. I'm going to fold up a sheet steel cover for it.

I cut down the seat box so it's flat and rewelded the feet on the seat to get the seat as low as possible (and didn't even set the seat on fire....). The hand brake will tuck in next to the seat. You can see the rough main gear stick location also.

I've made a list of wiring colours. I'll refine it soon and get some on order.

Chipping away at stuff...
Chttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210927/cae0e5c2e28ad72b674239ff81c0146d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210927/dc20e243d2511f45b16577b03e1397a4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210927/39850f4b3a73f138f38cd25399dd7cc7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210927/36bbbebfcb7ac16c026f868917a3cb4c.jpg

[cjc_td5]

I've used a donor door skin for the cab extension. By gently folding back the fold along the leading edge to 90 degrees, it can be placed to fold in to the door jam.

Making super sure to try to keep everything square as the cabin extension takes shape. I need to get everything as stiff as possible before I cut out the rear transom.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211009/a52ae41fd8b64351254b30a515177641.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211009/e40fa990ca9301ca65354b7a0b0ecaf3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211009/3cb1b4a8bfae2b8ceae00f033f07a0d9.jpg

[Homestar]

Given that the acceptable tolerances on Land Rover chassis’s of this era are plus or minus whatever they felt like at the time (around 1/2” in places on my 101) , your approach is well founded. Take your time, based on what you’ve done so far, you’ll nail it. 👍

[cjc_td5]

A great progress day today!
Basically got the cab extension exterior fabricated up to the mid level. Man that was hard to line everything up as I went... I tried to do one side first but it just wouldn't pull straight. I ended up doing a little bit each side, working each side against the other, and it all came together pretty damn square in the end. It's only rough fixed at the moment. It has to all come apart again to remove the steel bits for prep and painting. It's all just about stiff enough for me to now remove the old rear bulkhead, so I can finish off behind the seat boxes.
Yeeehah, things are moving along...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211023/eb4800310b8271d8cf111db4bbc13300.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211023/9aa96f8d8af0ec1e04db47070da55d9d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211023/f1079dd5d000c075ce04fe70c5ae9e0b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211023/9286572a8da1d9441363012109f5410c.jpg

[cjc_td5]

200m of wire in 38 different colour combinations. And that's not all of them... Fun times ahead stringing these in to looms.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211027/63bd2d762da0d29ee082f32c29bb2eeb.jpg

[101RRS]

Where did you buy that - I tried to get various colour wire a while back and did not have a lot of luck.

[cjc_td5]

Where did you buy that - I tried to get various colour wire a while back and did not have a lot of luck.

From Bruce Sharman at Bygone Spares & Restorations. He is near Perth and makes looms for Landies plus other makes. He will supply wire only as well.
Home (https://www.bygonesparesandrestorations.com/)

Another option is Holden Vintage & Classic in the UK.
Wiring (https://www.holden.co.uk/c/electrical/wiring)

Chris

[101RRS]

From Bruce Sharman at Bygone Spares & Restorations. He is near Perth and makes looms for Landies plus other makes. He will supply wire only as well.
Home (https://www.bygonesparesandrestorations.com/)

Another option is Holden Vintage & Classic in the UK.
Wiring (https://www.holden.co.uk/c/electrical/wiring)

Chris

Thats great - thanks.

[86mud]

Great work Chris

There will be a ton of space behind the seats once you remove the existing rear bulkhead.

Are you planning on a walk through to the camper back from the cab?

[cjc_td5]

Great work Chris

There will be a ton of space behind the seats once you remove the existing rear bulkhead.

Are you planning on a walk through to the camper back from the cab?No mate, just a conventional cab & Ali tray. Then a slide on style camper for the back. For maximum flexibility in uses.

I've even been mulling a simple trailer to sit under the slide on camper, so that it could be taken behind the D4 camping when more appropriate.

[cjc_td5]

A little bit of history. I've acquired a door to replace the rusty door frame on mine. Sanding it back today revealed some original Flick Pest Control sign writing. Vehicle fleet number 99 by the looks of it.

A shame to sand it off to repaint it, but such is life...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211221/455ff1a5562536f3592d21db17f14a9a.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Cab painted and now starting to nut out how to fabricate the upper sections.

Next immediate jobs are:
- start wiring.
- order and sort out the push/pull cables for high/low range, diff lock & hand brake.
- remove front panels and prepare & paint.
- finish seat mounts.
- etc etc...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220111/429fe7703c7f2ceef4d10d6b5e42d9d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220111/2d509fb6c55dceae70ed5844ba86f1c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220111/ce4b4d28fc4eb513a7cdcc5008cb7404.jpg

[cjc_td5]

The fuse box & relays will sit in a purpose made enclosure in the transmission tunnel.

You can also see what will be the diff lock push-pull cable, with a 3D printed and painted knob. It will be mounted in the front of the seat box. I have to make a lever with cable on the floor for high-low range, with a red knob of course.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220111/0fcdc9163ed9e0807b7dcbfc6364f732.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Dash top recovered and refitted. I filled the large holes with silicon to try to get the same softness as the original foam moulding. I couldn't get it flat enough to prevent the imperfections coming through the vinyl covering, so added a layer of 6mm foam under the vinyl. It hides the imperfections underneath nicely. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/ac95508ab088f321a509a6706948ad9d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/2e686c63798963893d9214284c174333.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/de291b278ef569a50b7bdb5a2d6297e3.jpg

[cjc_td5]

A wire wrestling kind of day today. I laid out the engine control loom, which basically runs from the dash back along the drivetrain to cover the various sensors, diff lock, reverse switch, etc etc.

The braid wrap I'm using is great. Got to solder on a few more terminals, then I can install it for good (I hope).

There will be separate looms for lights, stereo etc etc.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220305/f295e48181cf501b1232dcb3d5806b22.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220305/cfc53650b83dc7c2fb30c8ab06766f72.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Been a long time since I posted...
It drives, sort of stops, and most lights now work. I'm waiting for some warmer weather to paint the upper cabin and roof. Then I hope I can bolt it on for the last time.

I must fill in some of the recent activity...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220823/1a3f1e24e5b241f8d42998a3557cd406.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220823/5e1d87eefdd8a89294bd6ade427fc5a2.jpg

[86mud]

Nice work Chris

Great to see an update.

[whitehillbilly64]

You may have mentioned it before, but what's going on the Rear ?
Nice removable camper [bigsmile1]

whitehillbilly