PDA

View Full Version : Led lights on trailer



Roneyjd6
23rd May 2020, 08:33 AM
Hi all I have a caravan with led lights on it , does it matter if the green trailer light on dash does not come on when indicating or do I need to get the fix done. Thanks

Odysseyman
23rd May 2020, 09:17 AM
Hi all I have a caravan with led lights on it , does it matter if the green trailer light on dash does not come on when indicating or do I need to get the fix done. Thanks

Yes, you will. 👍

kelvo
23rd May 2020, 09:29 AM
Hi all I have a caravan with led lights on it , does it matter if the green trailer light on dash does not come on when indicating or do I need to get the fix done. Thanks
Do you have a D3 or D4?

With a D3 you need a pulse buster to stop the caravan LEDs pulsing. The pulse buster will also then let the D3 know you are towing. This will illuminate the trailer icon when indicating, disable rear parking sensors & rear fog lights, disable automatic height adjustment when changing Terrain Response settings (Manual height selection still possible), and change the shift points on the gearbox.

If you have a D4 you do not get the trailer LEDs pulsing so not totally necessary to do anything. But if you still want the D4 to know you are towing you’ll need resistors fitting to the trailer indicator wiring circuit.

My solution on my D4 https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/272077-led-trailers.html#post2916698

Discodicky
23rd May 2020, 04:11 PM
Hi all I have a caravan with led lights on it , does it matter if the green trailer light on dash does not come on when indicating or do I need to get the fix done. Thanks

Google "Linear Electronic Design" . The owner in Vic has a Disco 4 and is great to deal with.

scarry
23rd May 2020, 07:33 PM
I have the resisters fitted to the vehicles rear indicators,with a switch,so i can use any trailer with LED's.

RobMichelle
24th May 2020, 07:20 AM
Where does one get a pulse booster for a D3 please?
Rob

Tombie
24th May 2020, 10:14 AM
Where does one get a pulse booster for a D3 please?
Rob

I made one.

I then made a second one for a forum member a few months ago.

Total cost $50

loanrangie
24th May 2020, 10:26 AM
I made one.

I then made a second one for a forum member a few months ago.

Total cost $50

Got a schematic and parts list, will need to build one soon.

Tombie
24th May 2020, 10:30 AM
Got a schematic and parts list, will need to build one soon.

D3 version?

loanrangie
24th May 2020, 10:35 AM
D3 version?

Yes please.

kelvo
24th May 2020, 10:42 AM
Yes please.
Post #309 here https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-d3-d4-sticky-zone/85396-discovery-3-led-trailer-lights-31.html#post2973231

Tombie
24th May 2020, 10:51 AM
Yes please.

I’ll head to the shed and grab parts # for the box etc I used. Jaycar was convenient. Instead of waiting for eBay etc.

I used mini-relays in one for packaging reduction.

RobMichelle
24th May 2020, 11:37 AM
I made one.

I then made a second one for a forum member a few months ago.

Total cost $50

Pm sent
Rob

101RRS
24th May 2020, 12:38 PM
Just be aware that with a whatever type of pulse buster is fitted your dash indications and car actions are a result of the pulse buster not the trailer - so lights out on indicators etc will not de-illuminate the trailer indicator on the dash - indeed with no trailer connected but the pulse buster fitted the car thinks a trailer is fitted so goes through the motion.

So just be aware of that.

Garry

Celtoid
24th May 2020, 08:16 PM
Do you have a D3 or D4?

With a D3 you need a pulse buster to stop the caravan LEDs pulsing. The pulse buster will also then let the D3 know you are towing. This will illuminate the trailer icon when indicating, disable rear parking sensors & rear fog lights, disable automatic height adjustment when changing Terrain Response settings (Manual height selection still possible), and change the shift points on the gearbox.

If you have a D4 you do not get the trailer LEDs pulsing so not totally necessary to do anything. But if you still want the D4 to know you are towing you’ll need resistors fitting to the trailer indicator wiring circuit.

My solution on my D4 https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/272077-led-trailers.html#post2916698

I think … have heard …. and possibly imagine … that in a D4, fitting a trailer makes differences beyond light pulsing.

I imagine that everything you've stated about the D3 are the same but I also believe it affects how the engine/transmission reacts. Anybody else notice this?

What I find hilarious, is the fact that the rocket scientists at JLR designed a car with LEDs that is dependent on incandescent bulbs to notify it that it's got a trailer fitted …. go figure …. LOL!!!

Cheers,

Kev.

Tombie
24th May 2020, 08:19 PM
I think … have heard …. and possibly imagine … that in a D4, fitting a trailer makes differences beyond light pulsing.

I imagine that everything you've stated about the D3 are the same but I also believe it affects how the engine/transmission reacts. Anybody else notice this?

What I find hilarious, is the fact that the rocket scientists at JLR designed a car with LEDs that is dependent on incandescent bulbs to notify it that it's got a trailer fitted …. go figure …. LOL!!!

Cheers,

Kev.

Not quite correct. If you use the higher output LEDs on trailer or Van it will work as designed.
Problem is many vans/trailers don’t have these fitted.
Like anything - building for the multiple permutations can be a nightmare.

As for settings - They all make adjustments to set points when a trailer is detected.

INter674
25th May 2020, 05:48 AM
Not quite correct. If you use the higher output LEDs on trailer or Van it will work as designed.
Problem is many vans/trailers don’t have these fitted.
Like anything - building for the multiple permutations can be a nightmare.

As for settings - They all make adjustments to set points when a trailer is detected.

Exactomondo re the LEDs...typically trailer makers fit cheapo units..that is the cause of many problems...inc for Jap cars and many others😞

Celtoid
25th May 2020, 09:29 AM
Exactomondo re the LEDs...typically trailer makers fit cheapo units..that is the cause of many problems...inc for Jap cars and many others��

Maybe a mechanical solution would have been a good way to account for variables ... like a pressure switch on the plug :-)

Tombie
25th May 2020, 09:41 AM
Maybe a mechanical solution would have been a good way to account for variables ... like a pressure switch on the plug :-)

Would you then want the vehicle behaving differently because you’ve fitted a Bike Carrier (for example) and it has indicators? - as required if the bike obscures the tail lights.

See - never a perfect - one size fits all solution.

Even if a “pulse buster” was installed factory - users would either want it manual/ dash selectable/ fully automatic.

There are plugs with reed switches, often used to kill reverse sensors, in some other makes - this wouldn’t work for me for example as I leave an adapter hanging from mine much of the time.

loanrangie
25th May 2020, 10:54 AM
Ok, looks simple enough to build. Can this be installed in vehicle instead of a separate adapter with a switch to enable when required ?

Tombie
25th May 2020, 11:18 AM
Ok, looks simple enough to build. Can this be installed in vehicle instead of a separate adapter with a switch to enable when required ?

I know the D4 version can - I've done it.

I'll have to take another look at the D3 version.

loanrangie
25th May 2020, 11:53 AM
Just been reading thry heaps of posts, it would be so much easier if you could edit the CCF to disable the constant pulses.

Celtoid
25th May 2020, 03:23 PM
Would you then want the vehicle behaving differently because you’ve fitted a Bike Carrier (for example) and it has indicators? - as required if the bike obscures the tail lights.

See - never a perfect - one size fits all solution.

Even if a “pulse buster” was installed factory - users would either want it manual/ dash selectable/ fully automatic.

There are plugs with reed switches, often used to kill reverse sensors, in some other makes - this wouldn’t work for me for example as I leave an adapter hanging from mine much of the time.


You raise a very good point Tombie ....

superhet
28th May 2020, 10:41 AM
Just be aware that with a whatever type of pulse buster is fitted your dash indications and car actions are a result of the pulse buster not the trailer - so lights out on indicators etc will not de-illuminate the trailer indicator on the dash - indeed with no trailer connected but the pulse buster fitted the car thinks a trailer is fitted so goes through the motion.

So just be aware of that.

Garry

Which is why the pulse buster should be fitted to the trailer.

I built my own and mounted it in a die cast box on the A frame. It’s not rocket science, just a few resistors in parallel with the blinkers. I also put resistors in parallel with the tail and stop lights just to be sure. Just make sure you get 8 ohm 25w resistors.

superhet
28th May 2020, 10:43 AM
Just been reading thry heaps of posts, it would be so much easier if you could edit the CCF to disable the constant pulses.

The pulses are designed to alert you that a light bulb has failed.

pedro54
28th May 2020, 12:21 PM
You can add a switch and permanently install in the left rear panel.

I had one from Linear designs set up like this but it failed after ab out 5 years and needed it urgently so built one from the schematic on AURLO. Just install a SPST switch in the earth link (black) from the relay coils to the vehicle.

You need to cut and join into the wiring harness that is accessible behind the left rear tail light. Mine are soldered and heat shrink over the 5 cables.

Peter

101RRS
28th May 2020, 12:54 PM
Which is why the pulse buster should be fitted to the trailer.

I built my own and mounted it in a die cast box on the A frame. It’s not rocket science, just a few resistors in parallel with the blinkers. I also put resistors in parallel with the tail and stop lights just to be sure. Just make sure you get 8 ohm 25w resistors.

Doesn't matter where it is fitted - with all lights in the trailer blown, with a pulse buster fitted the dash trailer indicator will still show.

PerthDisco
28th May 2020, 01:13 PM
These were commercially available from an Aussie seller Labtronx

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200528/69465c46c63e5bf24158268cbaacea52.jpg

loanrangie
29th May 2020, 12:18 PM
The pulses are designed to alert you that a light bulb has failed.

Yes but it doesn't need to do it constantly, once at startup would suffice.

loanrangie
29th May 2020, 12:18 PM
Just to throw a spanner in the works, how would you go if you used LED indicator globes with resistors in a D3 ?

Celtoid
4th June 2020, 07:59 AM
You can add a switch and permanently install in the left rear panel.

I had one from Linear designs set up like this but it failed after ab out 5 years and needed it urgently so built one from the schematic on AURLO. Just install a SPST switch in the earth link (black) from the relay coils to the vehicle.

You need to cut and join into the wiring harness that is accessible behind the left rear tail light. Mine are soldered and heat shrink over the 5 cables.

Peter

I've had a Linear Designs unit fitted in the LH 'Cubby' for around 4 years now, so fingers crossed. It does get pretty hot when operating. Fitment wasn't the easiest thing in the world with Rear Air, as it's a pretty tight working environment.

Tombie
4th June 2020, 08:48 PM
I've had a Linear Designs unit fitted in the LH 'Cubby' for around 4 years now, so fingers crossed. It does get pretty hot when operating. Fitment wasn't the easiest thing in the world with Rear Air, as it's a pretty tight working environment.

What did they make you do for the install that makes it difficult with rear air?

Celtoid
5th June 2020, 09:06 AM
What did they make you do for the install that makes it difficult with rear air?

Getting to the spot where the company recommended splicing the wire was pretty tight as the fan is located right next to it. I had to make a few disconnections to pull stuff out of the way. There might be a way to get better access and allow you to have to not work in the cavity but I didn't explore. So I found myself working at finger length, which didn't make crimping that easy.

Plus my hand skills are not what they used to be......LOL!!!

Tombie
5th June 2020, 09:30 AM
Thanks for the feedback.