Brake pad sensor - how far can you go with it on?

[dukemasterpro]

Enjoying the NW Qld outback at the moment, left Longreach earlier today and had the pad sensor light come on.

Wanted to get a feel for how long ( km’s ) could reasonably expect to plan where to eat new pads ( rear I believe as front pads and rotor new pretrip ).

Not sure why the dealer who serviced didn’t upsell to do the rear pads and possibly rotors as well.
I hadn’t asked about the fronts which was their suggestion.
Plenty of chat about going on a trip with the service desk so I think it was clear something big was on the cards travel wise.

Currently in Winton and planned to head to the NT via Mt Isa middle of next week. Has anyone had work done there and can recommend? They don’t have a Pedders but is a large town.

I’m guessing any brake place in Mt Isa will have pads but not wear sensors???

My other thought is to go to Townsville and slightly modify our schedule as it’s a left to Mt Isa at Hughenden or right to the coast. Either ways interesting as we are doing a loop.

I’m also wondering is there anything on the vehicle that can falsely trigger the wear sensor eg mud or car wash as I’ve done both recently.

Separate story but we got thoroughly bogged at Charlotte Plains station after the rain, debogged with a couple of short tractor tows which was handy and then took the vehicle to the car wash at Long Reach a few days later.

A fun trip so far for sure but definitely keen to know how far these pads will take me to get a quick replacement next week.

[Ferret]

From my experience. A long way, 5k or more maybe but your mileage might vary.

But gee - easy enough to take off a wheel and check how much meat is left on the pad. Be aware there are only 2 sensors one on one of the front wheels and one on one of the rear wheels. Forget which wheels specifically have the sensors so you really need to to check all pad thickness anyway in case there is uneven wear.

Also would add the sensors have been known to activate just by sticks / stones etc flying up and damaging the sensors. And if the rear has been recently replaced then I would suspect a loose connection. Another reason to physically check the pads and the sensors.

[ATH]

We did about 3K with the brake sensor light (it's on the right rear) on for the rear pads. There was a bit of pad left when I changed them but I wouldn't want to have gone much further before changing them.
AlanH.

[Turtle60]

From my experience. A long way, 5k or more maybe but your mileage might vary.

But gee - easy enough to take off a wheel and check how much meat is left on the pad. Be aware there are only 2 sensors one on one of the front wheels and one on one of the rear wheels. Forget which wheels specifically have the sensors so you really need to to check all pad thickness anyway in case there is uneven wear.

Also would add the sensors have been known to activate just by sticks / stones etc flying up and damaging the sensors. And if the rear has been recently replaced then I would suspect a loose connection. Another reason to physically check the pads and the sensors.

Don’t stress. If the only issue is in fact a properly triggered wear sensor you can drive as said 5000k plus. But agree with all above. Have a look at each side for pad wear. Rear sensor is drivers side Inside pad and front is passenger inside pad. Out of the 8 pads only two actually can trigger the sensor. We drove to the cape and back after it triggered near Coen. Downside is you’ll be looking at that warning on the dash till you get is sorted and that means a new sensor. I believe you can snip and join The thin wires in the sensor cable and that will clear the warning but not fix the issue Upside is it won’t put you in limp mode surprisingly. Stopping mustn't be considered a safety issue [bigwhistle]

cheers
Steve

[Turtle60]

Edit . Caveat with the above post. Don’t snip the wear sensor cable. unless you now the difference between the wear sensor and wheel speed sensor cable. Cut that and you’ll be in a world of pain. Just put up with it.

[dukemasterpro]

We did about 3K with the brake sensor light (it's on the right rear) on for the rear pads. There was a bit of pad left when I changed them but I wouldn't want to have gone much further before changing them.
AlanH.

Thanks I have a bolt stuck in the right rear that we found yesterday so that’s coming off this morning. Can eyeball the pads then.

[dukemasterpro]

From my experience. A long way, 5k or more maybe but your mileage might vary.

But gee - easy enough to take off a wheel and check how much meat is left on the pad. Be aware there are only 2 sensors one on one of the front wheels and one on one of the rear wheels. Forget which wheels specifically have the sensors so you really need to to check all pad thickness anyway in case there is uneven wear.

Also would add the sensors have been known to activate just by sticks / stones etc flying up and damaging the sensors. And if the rear has been recently replaced then I would suspect a loose connection. Another reason to physically check the pads and the sensors.

Fronts were new very recently, will check the rear this morning. I didn’t grab a copy of the service invoice notes with me, but will ring tomorrow and ask what it said how many mm. Definitely have done 18000km since the rears were done from logging onto the service history which is helpful but doesn’t have great detail.


Thanks the tips guys [emoji1319][emoji1319][emoji1319] anyhow here’s my first puncture of the trip. Still holding air this morning, nothing like a tyre swap for brekkie. Have a 100km round trip on dirt this morning to be prepared for.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/86809f9014221a5df9b7696fb73fa162.jpg

[dukemasterpro]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200719/23b38a6e995f016b54afdec68b205bda.jpg

[dukemasterpro]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200719/1c563350552aaa9d3573dba2b5ef93c4.jpg

[Odysseyman]

Have you considered ordering pads and sensors online and having them delivered to a post office where you’re heading soon. Saves searching every workshop around outback towns.

David

[dukemasterpro]

Have you considered ordering pads and sensors online and having them delivered to a post office where you’re heading soon. Saves searching every workshop around outback towns.

David

Hi David,

No I hadn’t, was going to call ahead and thought maybe they’d order but sending to a PO would save some phone calls tomorrow AM. It’s basically something any workshop could do if I have the parts??

Cheers it’s a v. good idea. I took a couple of pics today but with the scissor jack being so high I wasn’t hanging around “inspecting”.

We had a date with some dinosaur footprints!

[p38arover]

Have you considered ordering pads and sensors online and having them delivered to a post office where you’re heading soon. Saves searching every workshop around outback towns.

What do you have - D3 or D4?

Maybe order on line here (see links below). Smaller items (up to 5kg) are sent Express Post, larger and/or heavier items are sent via TNT.

D3: Parts By Model - Servicing All Models - Discovery 3 - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/servicing-all-models/discovery-3/)

D4: Parts By Model - Servicing All Models - Discovery 4 - Page 1 - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/servicing-all-models/discovery-4/)

[dukemasterpro]

What do you have - D3 or D4?

Maybe order on line here (see links below). Smaller items (up to 5kg) are sent Express Post, larger and/or heavier items are sent via TNT.

D3: Parts By Model - Servicing All Models - Discovery 3 - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/servicing-all-models/discovery-3/)

D4: Parts By Model - Servicing All Models - Discovery 4 - Page 1 - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/servicing-all-models/discovery-4/)

2014 D4 - other thing I’ve thought of is rotors, with the front pads I was told to get rotors as well so old ones weren’t oversized. How important is that really? Eg if just change pads now and do rotors later?

[Turtle60]

Judging by the second photo it seems like you have plenty of pad. Id suspect the dried clay has tensioned the cable and in turn forced the sensor’s raised section that is designed to wear against the rotor or damaged the cable itself. Whether you need new pads might be in debate the need for a new rear sensor is not. But you’ve had a look. Good to go on that evidence.

[INter674]

How unlucky is that puncture😞

...some things like that just defy rational explanation!

[dukemasterpro]

How unlucky is that puncture[emoji20]

...some things like that just defy rational explanation!

Totally! Wasn’t a new tyre so life still good [emoji41]

[dukemasterpro]

Thanks for that, might be nothing then but we’ll get it looked at in Mt Isa Thursday / Friday.

I did think it was strange that a pad swap wasn’t flagged at service and the wear light came on less than 24 hours after the hosing the clay off, everything had been fine in the 3-4 days drive up to Longreach since the Cunamulla rain.

Going to order pads and sensor anyhow to the PO there, worse case we have the parts ready and waiting / peace of mind.

If not they’ll be labour only on the post trip service.


Meanwhile we’ll motor on... [emoji1303]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200719/24cee7fd9f42410ff36debc94dda345e.jpg

[dukemasterpro]

Apparently had 6mm left on the rear pads before we left and did the 3000km k’s up to NW Qld.

[LRD414]

...but we’ll get it looked at in Mt Isa Thursday / Friday.
Order through Pedders and have delivered to Pedders there. I've found their ceramic pads excellent. They also do rotors.

Scott

[Discodicky]

Totally! Wasn’t a new tyre so life still good [emoji41]

Out of interest, what tyres are you running?
Am still trying to decide which ones to buy in 19"

[dukemasterpro]

Maxxis At980 but just been told they have been discontinued with a new AT coming August but not in 255/55/19!!
The new tyre will have better off road capability / durability like the current mud terrain but with the wear rate of an AT.
Not sure what I’ll get next for after this trip and I hope stock is not going to be hard to find for emergencies. Only 20 of these left in the Townsville distribution centre.

[DiscoJeffster]

Maxxis At980 but just been told they have been discontinued with a new AT coming August but not in 255/55/19!!
The new tyre will have better off road capability / durability like the current mud terrain but with the wear rate of an AT.
Not sure what I’ll get next for after this trip and I hope stock is not going to be hard to find for emergencies. Only 20 of these left in the Townsville distribution centre.

Interesting. I just bought three of them. God damn it [emoji3]

[dukemasterpro]

Interesting. I just bought three of them. God damn it [emoji3]

Lucky I don’t have to buy one as it was going to be $490 fitted and balanced at Mt Isa. Paid $340 for the same in Sydney. Outback prices, eh?!

Got it fixed internally though at Richmond Tyre Centre for $33 whilst in the museum. Keep rolling on with light touches of the brake pedal. Still hunting an available workshop in Mt Isa.

They don’t have a Pedders and first call to the Repco place told me they are busy for a week and a half.

I’ll have the parts before then and maybe if t sensors been falsely triggered don’t need them at all.

[Sjcunn]

We call it the Mount Isa tax, out here.
Miners mate mechanic (Repco) are the preferred land rover agent and about the busiest mechanic in town. Another option is L.A.P. Automotive.

If you just want the part you could try your luck at autopro or auto barn. And Ashdown Ingram for any sensors or auto electrical parts.

But if the sensor is only just indicating theres not too many braking opportunities out this way unless it hops on front of you.

Sorry for late response only just saw your query.

[p38arover]

Did you get the parts you needed?

I packed up and sent a set of rotors, brake pads, and a wear sensor via TNT for someone in Mount Isa earlier this week. Dunno who they were for, I can't remember the name.

[dukemasterpro]

Did you get the parts you needed?

I packed up and sent a set of rotors, brake pads, and a wear sensor via TNT for someone in Mount Isa earlier this week. Dunno who they were for, I can't remember the name.

Sounds like mine actually [emoji1303], they arrived today. Will collect Monday. Cheers.

[p38arover]

Hmm, they took a while. The were picked up by TNT the same day as you ordered them.

[dukemasterpro]

Hmm, they took a while. The were picked up by TNT the same day as you ordered them.

All good p38arover [emoji6] in the hands of the gods once it leaves you. I’ve had much slower dispatch and shipping waiting for other camping items pre-trip.

I was hoping for Thursday when I seen it was in Brisbane on Tuesday, then the tracking update went blank till yesterday morning. Wasn’t anything available with Miners till Weds 29th but found a spot with another garage Autofirst through google for Tuesday first thing.

We’ve been doing shorter distance between stops to accommodate the delay. Was that or ditch Mt Isa and head for Darwin but that would have been 2000km’s on top of the 1200km since Longreach.

Townsville LR would maybe have been quicker but my other half wasn’t keen on doing our route anti-clockwise. Weather in September slightly cooler being closer to the coast for the return journey than inland.

[dukemasterpro]

Update for those following this - parts arrived and collected from the depot. Note to future self, 18kg in a small box [emoji403] is heavy. Ideal for a few campsite goblet squats [emoji851] if not not installed.

The guys at Autofirst in Healy were pretty helpful and professional. As I had the parts, a booking and had kind of arranged my intinary around this stopover in “the Isa”, said to fit them regardless AND it ended being significantly cheaper than the front rotor and pads done at a dealership - win.

Upshot was in their eyes the rear pads were ok, I’m alright with the swap as I got about 50,000km from the front rotors and with another 8,000km approx on this trip that 6mm of pad life was only going to be less.

They couldn’t clear however the brake warning [emoji3544] light with their computer and listed a whole bunch of fault codes which id seen when I took a look when the brake warning came on.

They mentioned maybe I’d need a new instrument cluster and this had triggered the brake wear sensor???

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200728/a9066a99f6233f7504d8658b38444cea.jpg



Some of these codes I’ve had after my pre-trip service and nothing was flagged by the servicing dealer.

I’ve not tried yet to clear with my reader.

The brakes themselves feel fine and of course happy again to put pedal to the floor when needed with no fear of any screeching noises of the pad gone kind.

Would be good to have the orange dash light off. Maybe LR in Darwin can help though last time it cost 2 hours labour for no clear answer and limping onwards vehicle.

All fine for now, keeping an eye more on the border situation, probs a bigger roadblock than anything LR right now.

[DiscoJeffster]

I wasn’t there and haven’t seen your car but the likelihood of needing an instrument cluster on your vehicle has the same odds of me winning Saturday lotto. Don’t. Seek a second more qualified opinion

[LRD414]

Was a new wear sensor fitted? If not fault won’t clear. Reuse of old sensor often won’t succeed.

[101RRS]

A new sensor (correctly installed) and a hard reset should clear the fault light.

[DieselLSE]

A new sensor (correctly installed) and a hard reset should clear the fault light.
Not sure you even need to do the hard reset. One normal cycle of the ignition cleared mine after fitting a new sensor.

[101RRS]

Yes I agree but the OP still has the light on and the car would have been switched on and off a few times - so the only other option before detailed fault finding is a hard reset.

[dukemasterpro]

Was a new wear sensor fitted? If not fault won’t clear. Reuse of old sensor often won’t succeed.

I supplied new sensor, pads and rotor. Have to assume it was done correct [emoji1695]

[dukemasterpro]

Yes I agree but the OP still has the light on and the car would have been switched on and off a few times - so the only other option before detailed fault finding is a hard reset.

Yeah, has been ignition on and off a few times since leaving the garage.

[DiscoDB]

As noted in the IIDTool manual, U type error codes are just comms issues that are often a side effect of another real fault - so often (not always) can be ignored.

The water in fuel sensor fault though can be real (or can also be a wiring issue) and can trigger other system faults if not addressed.

May pay to drain the fuel filter, clean the sensor and check wiring while you are there, and then clear faults again.

[JohnS]

Maxxis At980 but just been told they have been discontinued with a new AT coming August but not in 255/55/19!!
The new tyre will have better off road capability / durability like the current mud terrain but with the wear rate of an AT.
Not sure what I’ll get next for after this trip and I hope stock is not going to be hard to find for emergencies. Only 20 of these left in the Townsville distribution centre.

I checked with Maxxis re the discontinuation; all true and they estimated they will have stock of the existing design for up to 12 months (with normal demand). I asked them (pleaded, actually) to get the new AT tyre in 19 inch for all D4 owners. It's a bit tricky to invest in the current AT980 when, say, you need a replacement in a year or two and there's nothing comparable available. A nasty problem to have.

[TFromT]

Sounds like you've sorted it out already but, if the brake warning message is annoying you, just pull the sensor cable out of the calliper. The wires/connectors are not very tough and sounds like this was the problem to begin with re. brake pad wear. Has happened to me previously. They're cheap and can be considered a consumable when doing the pads.

As for the U-codes present, the severity of them depends of whether they are from the high-speed or low-speed CANBUS. Your intermittent faults look like they are high-speed and likely directly related to the P-code (any fuelling issues freak out and shut down the TDV6 engine module causing the cascading U-codes - it seems intentional in order to save the HPFP from seeing any air/water..), while the historic are low-speed (not important as they won't stop you).

[p38arover]

Sounds like you've sorted it out already but, if the brake warning message is annoying you, just pull the sensor cable out of the calliper. The wires/connectors are not very tough and sounds like this was the problem to begin with re. brake pad wear. Has happened to me previously. They're cheap and can be considered a consumable when doing the pads.


The pad wear sensor was replaced with a new one when the rotors and pads were replaced.

[dukemasterpro]

The pad wear sensor was replaced with a new one when the rotors and pads were replaced.

Yep [emoji1303]

[dukemasterpro]

Sounds like you've sorted it out already but, if the brake warning message is annoying you, just pull the sensor cable out of the calliper. The wires/connectors are not very tough and sounds like this was the problem to begin with re. brake pad wear. Has happened to me previously. They're cheap and can be considered a consumable when doing the pads.

As for the U-codes present, the severity of them depends of whether they are from the high-speed or low-speed CANBUS. Your intermittent faults look like they are high-speed and likely directly related to the P-code (any fuelling issues freak out and shut down the TDV6 engine module causing the cascading U-codes - it seems intentional in order to save the HPFP from seeing any air/water..), while the historic are low-speed (not important as they won't stop you).

Thanks for the follow up.

No changes as we’ve been “Bush” for a few days and not been in decent phone range till arrival today in Darwin.

I’m more inclined to get it looked at in Cairns, dealership here wasn’t that helpful last time - ended up going to Alice and then Adelaide which only fixed half the issue.

Obviously a bit of country to cover before then and a bit more remote through the Gulf.

Think I can live with the sensor light, the underlying reason for the brake wear to be triggered early perhaps something more to get looked at here - depends how serious?

Given no issues past 2,000k’s.

[ramblingboy42]

the sensor says , "hey , check your break pads"...then you can make an informed decision when to change them.

[dukemasterpro]

Thanks for the follow up.

No changes as we’ve been “Bush” for a few days and not been in decent phone range till arrival today in Darwin.

I’m more inclined to get it looked at in Cairns, dealership here wasn’t that helpful last time - ended up going to Alice and then Adelaide which only fixed half the issue.

Obviously a bit of country to cover before then and a bit more remote through the Gulf.

Think I can live with the sensor light, the underlying reason for the brake wear to be triggered early perhaps something more to get looked at here - depends how serious?

Given no issues past 2,000k’s.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/239691-restricted-performance-d4-error-code-p2264.html

This is a similar issue that’s come up?

I’m not techy enough to know off hand where the fuel filter is located. We did hit some big puddles on Charlotte Plains station if that’s the water the code on my vehicle is highlighting or the post mud wash down a few days later.

Food for thought would be very lost without the forum insights. Today is Picnic Day in the NT nothing open.

Depending on what other insights there is we’ll crack towards the Gulf or just do a quick Kakadu loop later this week if an appointment can be got at a garage or the Darwin dealer.

Cheers all!

[dukemasterpro]

the sensor says , "hey , check your break pads"...then you can make an informed decision when to change them.

That’s what we did, ordered parts booked a slot but guys at Mt Isa said they looked alright at the time but I said fit anyhow given the time we’d be on the road, full vehicle etc.

Rotors had done 55,000 and pads 18,000 and mileage on both city driving so my pad and tyre wear has been higher than others usually for wear items.

Unfortunately this wasn’t done at a main dealer ie limited diagnosis and advice on the codes.

I had a quick check with my iCar and the codes are not showing but the pad sensor light is. At least it’s a yellow and not a red light.

[Ferret]

I had a quick check with my iCar and the codes are not showing but the pad sensor light is.

Error codes are not raised because the pad sensor lights up.

If you have the sensor light on the dash showing and you have checked the sensor head itself is undamaged (ie not open circuit due to wear) then you have an open circuit somewhere else in one or the other of the sensor wires. Check the sensor wire's connections.

[dukemasterpro]

Error codes are not raised because the pad sensor lights up.

If you have the sensor light on the dash showing and you have checked the sensor head itself is undamaged (ie not open circuit due to wear) then you have an open circuit somewhere else in one or the other of the sensor wires. Check the sensor wire's connections.

Yeah okay I see, I need a thread on the other P fault then. I’ve not check the newly fitted sensor or had the front sensor from June checked yet.

[TFromT]

Restricted Performance in D4. Error code P2264. (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/239691-restricted-performance-d4-error-code-p2264.html)

This is a similar issue that’s come up?

I’m not techy enough to know off hand where the fuel filter is located. We did hit some big puddles on Charlotte Plains station if that’s the water the code on my vehicle is highlighting or the post mud wash down a few days later.

Food for thought would be very lost without the forum insights. Today is Picnic Day in the NT nothing open.

Depending on what other insights there is we’ll crack towards the Gulf or just do a quick Kakadu loop later this week if an appointment can be got at a garage or the Darwin dealer.

Cheers all!


If it's not going into restricted performance mode then the fuelling issues aren't serious and probably don't warrant any worry. If it does give you further trouble (restricted performance/go-slow mode), the fuel filter is located underneath the drivers seat, mounted on the inside of the chassis rail - you'll need to remove the underbody plastic guard backwards from the x-member to get access (not difficult). Check the connector and wires coming from the bottom of the filter for damage, and then the water tap-off valve thing is the little yellow thing sticking out from the bottom. I have not needed to do this myself, but believe you unscrew this little yellow know a turn or two with the ignition on (fuel pump running), but engine off. A bit of detail here but, perhaps useful to know before you head-out over the next few days by the sound of it.. I suspect if you take it somewhere to get looked out they will likely change the fuel filter for you as 'remedy' for this fault.

As for the brakes, this is obviously completely unrelated to the above. I would still be looking at the wear sensor wires, new or not. One end is connected to one of the pads through the calliper body, the other inside the wheel arch (tricky to get to). You've got new pads so just remove wires at one or both ends to get rid of light - or just go on as you are as it's a non-issue as you have seen.

Good luck with the remainder of the trip!

[dukemasterpro]

If it's not going into restricted performance mode then the fuelling issues aren't serious and probably don't warrant any worry. If it does give you further trouble (restricted performance/go-slow mode), the fuel filter is located underneath the drivers seat, mounted on the inside of the chassis rail - you'll need to remove the underbody plastic guard backwards from the x-member to get access (not difficult). Check the connector and wires coming from the bottom of the filter for damage, and then the water tap-off valve thing is the little yellow thing sticking out from the bottom. I have not needed to do this myself, but believe you unscrew this little yellow know a turn or two with the ignition on (fuel pump running), but engine off. A bit of detail here but, perhaps useful to know before you head-out over the next few days by the sound of it.. I suspect if you take it somewhere to get looked out they will likely change the fuel filter for you as 'remedy' for this fault.

As for the brakes, this is obviously completely unrelated to the above. I would still be looking at the wear sensor wires, new or not. One end is connected to one of the pads through the calliper body, the other inside the wheel arch (tricky to get to). You've got new pads so just remove wires at one or both ends to get rid of light - or just go on as you are as it's a non-issue as you have seen.

Good luck with the remainder of the trip!

Thanks mate appreciate the details in case a bush repair is needed to check the filter. We’re going to continue on into Kakadu, so far so good.

All these little “issues” are one for a skilled independent to check through at home should they not be obvious. At least I know the braking materials are fresh :-) and happy to have missed the border closures to date.