Questions about buying Disco3

[chillilife]

Hi,

I have been looking at different 4x4s for a while and think I've finally decided a disco 3 is what I want to get! I've been reading a lot of posts on this forum and general info about the D3.
However, would be great if some people on here would be able to give me a bit of insight on this. :)

There's one I'm interested in that has done 150k, but has never had its transmission serviced, or front control arms replaced. Also has never done towing/4x4. From what I've read on this forum it seems servicing the transmission regularly is a key factor.
Would you guys think this is a big risk for the transmission or would you think if it is serviced after I buy it then it would likely be ok? How much would you expect this to cost to service?
Also, would you expect the control arms to require replacing soon and would you be factoring this into the budget?


There's another car that looks within my budget which has had almost everything replaced, as well as a new engine fitted (done about 35k) (car has done about 260k)
"New front control arms
New radiator
New front and rear brake discs and pads
New park brake module and shoes
New alternator, idlers and belt
Auto trans had new valve body seals, flush, steel pan upgrade and service"

With that many things replaced is there anything you might be cautious of?
or is this a good thing as these things would likely not need replacing in the near future?

Thanks in advance for any advice :)

[DieselLSE]

Hi chillilife,
The first thing you must acknowledge is that you're not buying a $30k or $40k (or whatever the price is) car. You are buying a (ten years old) $100k car that was once a state of the art, leading edge 4WD. It was a complex machine with complex software and expensive servicing requirements. It still is, no matter how cheaply you can buy it today.
That said, there's no reason why a well maintained D3 won't suit you. But expect to pay for servicing and parts as though it was a new car.
At that mileage you will be ready for:
Timing belt replacement, possibly low pressure fuel pump and perhaps high pressure pump replacement. If doing a body off service it would be worth checking the lubrication between the transfer case and gearbox shaft. Allow a few thousand if all OK. Double that if other issues found.
Gearbox needs a service. If not used for towing or heavy 4WD it should be fine. Must be done by authorised ZF shop (in my opinion). Allow $774.
Front control arms are virtually sacrificial items, so no problems there. Allow $900 for parts plus labour plus wheel alignment.
It also pays to be on top of the air suspension maintenance and you should consider buying a diagnostic tool.
It also pays to be able to do your own servicing and maintenance. In any event, find a good indie. There's a few in Perth according to posts from locals and Dazza TD5 comes highly recommended and regularly contributes to this forum.
He'll probably come along shortly and correct me on this post!

[PerthDisco]

You don’t mention the asking prices as potentially they should be about the same given one has less kms and more servicing to do while other has more kms and better servicing.

Control arms are something every owner has to do. In same category is a new alternator around 150k-180k km range.

You can knock $1500 off for LCAs immediately.

What about regular engine oil servicing? D3s schedule was every 6 months - has it been done?

New engine and radiator I really like that if done by a pro. You can pick up on the engine servicing schedule early.

Transmission is a slight risk at 150k km now but if never towed possibly acceptable to get double flush done ASAP $1200 budget.

Timing belts have they been done? If pre 09 model needs oil pump housing changed. Change coolant plastic part as well. $2000-$3000.

So best overall condition and service history wins for me.

[Parso]

Hey Chillilife. Welcome to the forums. Sounds a bit like the 05 Disco I purchased with about 150km. I had them knock about $3k off as it was due a timing belt, New tyres and still the plastic gearbox so pretty sure never done.

I just had the auto pan and oil done for $850 at ARB.
The timing belts I had done last year for around $2k
The compressor and front air block needed replacing last year ($500 as I went chinese, don't tell these guys)
I also had to do the electric park brake shoes (around $500 with discs, pads) as it seized within the first 4 hours and shattered on the missus.

All in all I love the car. It is super capable and I feel I still a good deal so I don't see it as a massive expense as a lot shouldn't need doing for another 7 years now. Just need to factor some of the big tickets into purchasing cost.

[NavyDiver]

I am biased. Love my D3's. 2005 one only gone due to a hail storm and a rotten insurance company. I expect to replace the items you highlight every odd 100,000 to 200,000 km or so. I still have change in my pocket after buying both of mine with over 100,000 km on them not $100,000 for a new car or $200,000 for two[biggrin]. The 2009 I have now is planned for retirement well past 500,000km.

Perhaps I am a optimist[bighmmm] Diesel if you can is my choice and tip.

[PerthDisco]

I am biased. Love my D3's. 2005 one only gone due to a hail storm and a rotten insurance company. I expect to replace the items you highlight every odd 100,000 to 200,000 km or so. I still have change in my pocket after buying both of mine with over 100,000 km on them not $100,000 for a new car or $200,000 for two[biggrin]. The 2009 I have now is planned for retirement well past 500,000km.

Perhaps I am a optimist[bighmmm] Diesel if you can is my choice and tip.

D3s rule basically

I love the simpler centre console design, door panels and the cup holders

and

and

Headrests have the 45 degree handles. Best looking feature ever on a car!

[DiscoDB]

Caveat upfront - if either is owned by an AULRO member - then both could be very good! [emoji3]

So I will assume both are TDV6’s - although most of these comments apply to all models.

With the second car at 260K, a lot of those new items are almost like consumables. It is probably onto its second set of lower control arms and brake rotors, and depending on when last done could be due for a third set in the near future. A new motor often means vital work that should have been done earlier had been missed as well or not done properly. And just because the auto has been recently flushed, how many times has it been done before this - was this only recently done because now the auto is due for replacement? High kms also means other major work could be due next. There is a reason why prices depreciate at higher kms - even if the car is still a good one.

With the first car at 150K kms. At least you know that you will need to replace lower control arms, plus replace the timing belt, idlers, and depending on which year model it is upgrade the oil pump. Yes it missed one auto fluid change and needs a steel pan fitted but this would not be a show stopper for me - just another negotiation point. Doing a double flush now is probably almost as good as two partial flushes when it comes to how much impact this truly has on the auto’s life - but it is an extra cost you are up for.

When I bought mine, admittedly 6 years ago now, it needed lower control arms, an auto flush and pan fitted, and new tyres. So this became a $6K reduction on the asking price. Since then it needed timing belt, idlers, oil pump upgrade, brake rotors, a new alternator, a new battery, a new air compressor, a second auto fluid change, and will be due for a 3rd set of tyres. Now at 150K (and no that is not my D3 for sale).

My preference is to buy a car with lower kms and known work to be done, then negotiate the price down and get it done properly.

And yes - love the D3. Big, boxy, and beautiful. Not as high tech or good looking as the D4, but only a true LR fanatic would see the difference.

[INter674]

Can't really add to what has been said but can say on a recent trip out of 12 LR cars including a well modded series Swb ....3 Perenties...many 110s and an open centre diff D2...the D3 HSE V8 with highway tyres out drove almost everything. The plastic took a hammering tho🙄

Thinking of getting one rather than trash the D4 rocket ship....but not a diesel ...just my personal preference 😎

[chillilife]

Thanks for all the replies everyone
Definitely some great info which will help me out.

@PerthDisco - The cars were both petrol and asking prices quite different. 150ks was ~$19k and the 260ks was ~$15k.
"If pre 09 model needs oil pump housing changed. Change coolant plastic part as well. $2000-$3000."
Does the oil pump replacing apply to both diesel and petrols?
The coolant's plastic container bottle actually had a crack and coolant was fizzing out - is that the plastic part you meant?

@DiscoDB - yes, good point on the transmission flush - when i checked out the car the 260ks was only known to be flushed once and the guy wasn't sure if previous owners had done it before him, though his own guess was that they had.

@Parso - thanks for the approximate costs on what you needed to do on your car. Will definitely help when I find the right one, to know what I may need to include in the budget.

@DieselLSE - Thanks for pointing those things out, and thanks for the advice! :)

Still looking for the right car, but hopefully it pops up soon!

[DiscoJeffster]

Coolant component part number LR073372

Related to the diesel only


Water Outlet Connector 2.7+3.0 TDV6 LR073372 (https://www.british4wd.com.au/water-outlet-connector-2.7-3.0-tdv6-lr073372)