More Diesel drama's

[Sith]

Ok need some input/help from the guru's please !
I have a 1992 RR with a 300tdi conversion done , I have had drama's in the past few months with vaccumm locks in the tank which the lines were blown out and new tank cap fitted up ect ect .....here comes the new drama .....

Ok on any gradiant over 15 degs from a stationary position in 1st gear high range on the tar mat , she will stutter and stall ... re start and get the rev's up and try again ... now with the rev's at say 1200 and let out the clutch the revs drop immediatly to around 400 then stutters and heads off ... thru all other gears no drama's ..... going up hills [big hills] towing a trailer no drama ... the minute i come to a complete stop the drama's start again !!!!!!

On a flat ground stationary start ... no drama at all :mad: :mad: :mad:


all help appreciated ;)

[DEFENDERZOOK]

what happens if you try it in low range....?



the symptoms lead to letting the clutch out too quick....maybe a fault with the clutch....?
if it was fuel it would do it in all gears at the same revs i would think....?

[DEFENDERZOOK]

check to make sure all the plumbing on the inlet side of the air intake is connected....including the turbo.....

[incisor]

lift pump on the way out... ?

[Sith]

thanx for the replies guys will be starting to check everything over tomorrow ....also just going thru my logg books since i had it and noticed i have dropped off about 70km per tank :( :( :(

Buggar

[td5130]

I would Try that vacume thing on top of the injector pump its sposed to stop it over fueling when no boost may be it not working broken dirafram or hose come off

[langy]

Howdy: I've a 300Tdi, and have had similar symtoms -

Apart from the fact that a 300Tdi when cold and without boost has a hard time doing anything, there are some things you can do to keep it doing it's best.

1. Check the turbo hoses, intercooler and inlet hoses, air filter and inlet manifold. When you lose air pressure, then performance suffers. Wash the intercooler out with a good degreaser, Replace the jubilee clips with HD clips from CBC. If there are oil stains from under the inlet manifold, get another gasket ($20), or check to see if there are any broken manifold bolts ( replace with M8 fine thread HT) . Check to see that the connections off the turbo to the injector pump are OK.

2. Use a decent injector cleaner.

3. Use a 12mm or 11m drill with 3/8 shank ( in place of the LR timing tool) (Tape the sharp edges) and check the timing's right.

If those things don't fix it - get serious and check the timing belt, crank pulley and woodruff keys.

Langy

[Sith]

Ok i run redline diesel fuel conditioner every tank , but ...... had a look at everything today ...timing is right ......timing belt done 12000km ago .....and i have an air hiss sound around the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler ....around the intercooler area .... all clamps are tight ... so at this time i still dunno ?????
the pipe from the intercooler to the turbo looks to be steel exhaust pipe with a rubber hose over it .
Air filter is new [1000km] but the air filter box is loaded in drill holes 50mm holes from the previous owner and i have been tryiong to source a EFI RR air filter cylander shaped one so i can get a snorkle down the track .....

[LRHybrid100]

Certainly sounds like your loosing boost somewhere - I'd track down that hissing if I were you.

Also check all intercooler hoses - they have a tendency to break down and delaminate after a while.

HTH

LRH

[Owen]

Sith, was the car done or did you get it converted. I am thinking of doing my old 2 door to diesel, its a range thing, not $$ for fuel but the 400KM to the tank that annoys me.

[camel_landy]

Hmmmm.... Interesting set of symptoms.

When you get it going, how does it drive on the HWY? Has it lost some of the top end speed too? If so, the fueling mechanism in the pump may have siezed (a common problem on vehicles here in the UK). It's quite easy to fix though a little involved when it comes to describing on a forum!

I've described the process on here before so I'll do a search & see if I can find it.....

Wait one.....

[camel_landy]

....Back again. :D

I found the thread and here's what I said:



I'll try to explain....

Under the 4 screws is the mechanism that will adjust the amount of fuel delivered based upon the turbo pressure. If you remove this cover, there is a rubber diaphram (which the pressure acts against) and bolted to the underside of this is a cone.

There is a rod inside the pump that rests on this cone and as the cone moves up and down, so the rod moves in and out. This rod then disappears down inside the pump to adjust the fuel.

It is quite common (especially if used in or around water) for the rod and/or the cone to seize.

The remedy (performed at your own risk!):

1 - Pop the 4 screws off.
2 - Mark the location/orientation of the diaphram vs pump housing. Peel up & see if it's free moving. If not, that's problem 1! If it's stuck, apply liberal amounts of WD40. Next, we need to get access to the "Rod".
3 - Mark & remove the throttle linkage.
4 - Behind this you should find a 5mm allen key bolt. Remove this and you should now have access to the other side of the rod.

Use the 5mm allen key & poke it into the hole! If everything is working properly, you should be able to feel the allen key move out as you lift the diaphram/cone. Ultimately, you should be able to just pop the cone straight out.

If not, keep attacking it with WD40 until it frees up with you moving the cone up and down while using the allen key to keep pushing the rod back in. Eventually, the cone should pop out.

Once out, grease up the cone & re-assemble.

Notes on assembly:
1 - Before you put the cone back in, make sure the rod is pushed back into place otherwise it will prevent the cone from being inserted. Just use the 5mm allen key to push it back in (you can see it poking out if you shine a torch down).
2 - If you forget to mark the diaphram location, you should be able to align from the grove that has been worn in the cone.
3 - When you fire the engine up for the first time, if the idle speed is wrong, you've put the throttle linkage back in the wrong position. Remove and put back on the next spline around.
4 - When you go on a road test, it will be sluggish for the first 30 seconds while it clears everything out but it should then jump into life.

HTH

Mark.


You can read the thread here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=21530&page=2):