Front axle hub ?

[Wall Banger]

Hi again..

I have inherited a 1962 Series 2a SWB from a hard line outbacker who had it since new, however he took all the information to the grave with him so unable to question about any changes made over the years. I only a Series 2 88 and 109 workshop manual and owners book to work on.
I had ordered brake parts prior to disassembly to find that this vehicle has LWB 11 inch brakes and a hub not mentioned in the manuals, can any shine so light on this?
I had never owned such a vehicle and i remember the old bastard never talked about his landrover or even driven it as long as knew him over thirty years.
166847 166848 what are these?

[Wall Banger]

11 inch Brakes?
166849

166850 The cylinders don't even look like what in the manual.

[gromit]

166847 166848 what are these?

They are freewheel hubs.
In 2WD they can be disengaged so you aren't turning the halfshafts as you drive. Supposedly they reduce fuel consumption but they also stop the Railco bush getting splash lubricated.
In 4WD they need to be manually locked otherwise there is no drive to the front wheels, the halfshafts just turn inside the freewheel hubs.

Colin

[gromit]

11 inch Brakes?
166849

166850 The cylinders don't even look like what in the manual.


You must have the wrong manual.... they look correct for LWB front brakes
Wheel cylinder LWB 4cyl front & SWB front LH fr 80/81 - TRW Lucas - Paddock Spares (https://au.paddockspares.com/243743g-wheel-cylinder-lwb-4cyl-front-swb-front-lh-fr-80-81-trw-lucas.html)


Colin

[JDNSW]

My reply got lost when a storm came between here and the satellite, but I agree with Colin. And note that if you have lwb brakes on the front, check what you have on the back and what master cylinder. Also note that the lwb brakes are different width on the six, but these look like the four cylinder ones.

I have seen those free wheel hubs before, but not for many years, and I have never had anything to do with them, so cannot comment on them. They were rare.

[Cap]

11" brakes on a swb is something I did on mine, so perhaps was just a modification based on personal choice perhaps? Never seen those FWH before, the design isnt the best IMO as you got a flat slot to twist - i think this would be flogged out in no time if used regularly. I wonder if one can modify/swap out that fitting so that you have a hex head (like a nut/bolt) to get a ring spanner on it instead.

[JDNSW]

Depends on the use of the vehicle, although I suspect that is partly why they were never very popular. My free wheel hubs stay engaged 99% of the time, and are disengaged for the annual pink slip trip to town, or to Cooma a couple of years ago. But my pick of freewheel hubs is the Warn ones I have. I got them at a clearing sale for $20 attached to a swb chassis less engine and gearbox but plus a tub and cab back and roof.

[Xtreme]

They are freewheel hubs.
In 2WD they can be disengaged so you aren't turning the halfshafts as you drive. Supposedly they reduce fuel consumption but they also stop the Railco bush getting splash lubricated.
In 4WD they need to be manually locked otherwise there is no drive to the front wheels, the halfshafts just turn inside the freewheel hubs.
Colin
The freewheeling hubs also saves wear on the front driveshaft - supposedly the fastest wearing part on a SWB Series Landy. When disengaged ('out') the front drive is disconnected at the hub and at the transfer box.
However, I was never a fan of freewheeling hubs and found that they didn't reduce fuel consumption noticeably.

[Homestar]

However, I was never a fan of freewheeling hubs and found that they didn't reduce fuel consumption noticeably.

Ditto, and I have also broken them - 2 different sets actually. Maybe they were fitted as a mechanical fuse rather than the axles...?

[Cap]

... My free wheel hubs stay engaged 99% of the time ...

I am the same, I have them running pretty much engaged all the time as the donor S3 front end I pulled them off had the unis completely destroyed in the swivels... apparently a sign of not enough oil being splashed around inside by leaving them disengaged for too long. I have the M11 ones.

Tassie being so hilly, I found that when I am running them disengaged for a highway run up hills, in one particular hill I got a 10kph difference, 50kph engaged, 60kkph disengaged. So for me its more about that extra speed rather than fuel consumption, even tho my little 2.25 is super economical!

[gromit]

I am the same, I have them running pretty much engaged all the time as the donor S3 front end I pulled them off had the unis completely destroyed in the swivels... apparently a sign of not enough oil being splashed around inside by leaving them disengaged for too long. I have the M11 ones.


What are 'M11' ones ?

I wouldn't have thought the UJ's would fail due to oil not being splashed around. They dip in the oil so would quickly get lubricated when the hubs are engaged or 4WD is selected plus needle rollers need minimal lubrication anyway. More likely lack of oil altogether or water ingress/condensation.
There is the problem of trying to get UJ's without seals so that the oil can get in to lubricate, most I've used you can't just remove the seal because it also locates the needle rollers.

I run my shorty with the hubs unlocked but engage 4WD for short trips to splash oil around to lubricate the Railco bearings. There is no way to check that both shafts are spinning (rather than just one) so some trips are made with the hubs engaged.


Colin

[Cap]

Colin - these are the Warn brand. I think they are fairly common, seen these around on photos.

Here is mine:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tjK0BBaVCF4/maxresdefault.jpg

The needles that came off the S3 where mushed, as in some where sitting on the base of the swivel mixing it up with the bearing ([bigrolf]) but most was grinded to paste.

[gromit]

Colin - these are the Warn brand. I think they are fairly common, seen these around on photos.

The needles that came off the S3 where mushed, as in some where sitting on the base of the swivel mixing it up with the bearing ([bigrolf]) but most was grinded to paste.

Hadn't heard of M11 but had heard of Warn freewheel hubs.

I have seen UJ's that have failed but in an oil filled swivel hub, even if not rotating, there must have been something else at play....



Colin

[Wall Banger]

Hi again..

I have inherited a 1962 Series 2a SWB from a hard line outbacker who had it since new, however he took all the information to the grave with him so unable to question about any changes made over the years. I only a Series 2 88 and 109 workshop manual and owners book to work on.
I had ordered brake parts prior to disassembly to find that this vehicle has LWB 11 inch brakes and a hub not mentioned in the manuals, can any shine so light on this?
I had never owned such a vehicle and i remember the old bastard never talked about his landrover or even driven it as long as knew him over thirty years.
166847 166848 what are these?


Hi again, I had just jacked up the front wheels loose off the ground to play with wheel hub setting by rotating drive shaft and noting wheel rotation.

With both hub screw set to OUT, front wheels rotate in opposite direction while moving drive shaft as normal diff.
However .
With both hub screws set to IN, front wheels rotate in same direction while rotating drive shaft.

Now I'm confused as regardless of hub screw setting drive shaft is engaged to front wheels, and 4WD is engaged.

I had an early 1980's Dihatsu 4WD with diff-lock operation (get me out the ****) remotely connected by pneumatic to diff itself to gearbox leaver.
Does someone has the same hub as pictured, I'm in the guess now since noting driveshaft and wheel rotation and diff -lock on a past vehicle.
???


:toilet:

[JDNSW]

I have the same freewheel hubs as those, and in my experience they are close to the pick of the lot. But note that all freewheel hubs will have some drag due to friction and oil viscosity, so that turning the shaft and seeing which wheel turns is not particularly definitive.

To confirm what is free to turn and what is locked, you need to put some turning resistance in place. For example. if four wheel drive is engaged, and park brake applied, with the front wheels off the ground and the hubs engaged, turning one wheel will force the other to turn in the opposite direction. Locking one wheel either by lowering it to the ground or locking the wheel with the brake adjuster, should mean the opposite one cannot be turned with out unlocking a hub. You can use this setup in combinations to check the functioning of the freewheel hubs and to check for U-joint problems.