Do I need a Hard Reset?

[gavinwibrow]

After last weeks debacle losing all electrics when I tried to insert my GAPTool at the lights for instrument mode, and being ignominiously towed home, I have since recharged the main battery which was at 4.8V.
I can now "electrically" open the car doors using the key, but when I go to start the engine, I get the key not recognised warning (tried on all 3, at least 2 of which have reasonably new batteries and were working last week).

I suspect/vaguely recall that a hard reset might be required?

If so, my only trouble is the that terminals each have a tristar (tightening?) screw on top, which I currently can't loosen.

Maybe call the RAC?



I also contacted GAP re the original problem, and will post the response as a different thread.

[theelms66]

If your battery was at 4.8v ,I don't think it will ever be of use.

[Eric SDV6SE]

After last weeks debacle losing all electrics when I tried to insert my GAPTool at the lights for instrument mode, and being ignominiously towed home, I have since recharged the main battery which was at 4.8V.
I can now "electrically" open the car doors using the key, but when I go to start the engine, I get the key not recognised warning (tried on all 3, at least 2 of which have reasonably new batteries and were working last week).

I suspect/vaguely recall that a hard reset might be required?

If so, my only trouble is the that terminals each have a tristar (tightening?) screw on top, which I currently can't loosen.

Maybe call the RAC?



I also contacted GAP re the original problem, and will post the response as a different thread.

Gav, new car battery me thinks, at 4.8v that’s buggered. Also replace the battery in the key fob with brand new. Re Tristar, do you mean torx security screws? Terminal should be std M10 bolts or so.

[Tombie]

What terminals? Factory battery terminals?
The “star” is the threaded rod, you loosen the nut on the top and then wiggle the clamp off.

[gavinwibrow]

What terminals? Factory battery terminals?
The “star” is the threaded rod, you loosen the nut on the top and then wiggle the clamp off.


Tried to loosen the nut holding the thread, but stopped when I thought it would break

[gavinwibrow]

Gav, new car battery me thinks, at 4.8v that’s buggered. Also replace the battery in the key fob with brand new. Re Tristar, do you mean torx security screws? Terminal should be std M10 bolts or so.


Battery is HD Varta 12 months old. Have just spent 2 days recharging it to 12.something volts, so hopeful it can be rectified, if only for a lesser period.

[gavinwibrow]

If your battery was at 4.8v ,I don't think it will ever be of use.

Eternal optimist - see reply to other post from Eric

[josh.huber]

Was the car towed to your house or elsewhere. What condition was it towed in? Was the gap tool still plugged in when it was towed.. How many days since the failure till you seen it at 4.8 volts? Any fridges etc.
With a can bus failure, if the failure is at the obd port maybe the cat never went to sleep trying to come back to life and simply drained the battery. Unfortunately in my experience it'll need a new battery anyway. I'd order it now to make the diagnosis cleaner for dazza,

[josh.huber]

Also do you have dual battery's? If so disconnect them. When my yellow top went. It killed my main battery aswell.

[NavyDiver]

Just replace a failed battery in my other half's car. A faulty cell. I had it on charge over the weekend and quickly noted it took far to long to charge. Battery test cost me nothing. your battery is still in warranty like mine was. Get it tested is my tip before anything else.

[gavinwibrow]

[QUOTE=josh.huber;3061439]Was the car towed to your house or elsewhere. What condition was it towed in? Was the gap tool still plugged in when it was towed.. How many days since the failure till you seen it at 4.8 volts? Any fridges etc.
With a can bus failure, if the failure is at the obd port maybe the cat never went to sleep trying to come back to life and simply drained drained the battery. Unfortunately in my experience it'll need a new battery anyway. I'd order it now to make the diagnosis cleaner for dazza,
=====================================

Have Traxide 160 dual battery setup.

Car was flat-bedded home towing caravan behind tow truck. Tool taken out after everything died at intersection.

Left car and went to Kalbarri for a week - no fridge or other electrics apart from EGT gauge light which is always on (don't ask). Light was still on when we got back.

On return suddenly thought maybe batteries have been affected and tested them. Auxiliary fine at above 12V, main at 4.8V. Auxiliary was charged via solar and main via 7 stage electric charger. Both at ~14V after 36 hour charge. Did load test on main battery = weak/12V.

Did hard reset, but still no communication with fobs.

Off to Battery World to get Varta properly checked.

[discorevy]

Gavin , with a massive current draw event like yours , I would think it more than likely some fuses may have blown, should be one for immobiliser and alternator.
Also , if the alternator diodes cause that sort of discharge you can usually smell it.

[gavinwibrow]

Gavin , with a massive current draw event like yours , I would think it more than likely some fuses may have blown, should be one for immobiliser and alternator.
Also , if the alternator diodes cause that sort of discharge you can usually smell it.

Will check Craig, but don't recall any smell.

Update to post below

After 2 days of charging and then load testing the main battery, I took it down to Battery World O'Connor where I bought it from in July 2019.
Tested out fine and several hours later I reinstalled it in the car and it was at about 13.5V (with solar panel concurrently float charging auxiliary battery).
Still no joy in getting the car to read any of the 3 fobs, so think I'll get RAC to pop in on the off chance, as I need to get it to DazzaTD5 on Monday, and suspect it will be another flatbed trip.

[DiscoDB]

Gavin - when you left the car and went to Kalbarri, had you locked it with the key remote before you went?

Despite your electrical melt down could you still lock and unlock before you left?

[gavinwibrow]

Gavin - when you left the car and went to Kalbarri, had you locked it with the key remote before you went?

Despite your electrical melt down could you still lock and unlock before you left?

No - had misplaced my only fob with a key prior, so car was of necessity left unlocked for the week away as the other two remotes would neither start the car, nor activate anything else - nor would the 3rd fob when we returned as per previous posts.

Phew! Found the missing key in a shoe in my kitbag while at Kalbarri, so was now able to at least lock it while it sits on the verge waiting to go to DazzaTD5 on Sunday/Monday.
RAC has just been - ironically same mechanic as when the first instance happened over a year ago - but he was unable to get his (new) diagnostics tool to talk to my car without any ignition.

[DiscoDB]

I am sure I have read this before about a battery dying whilst the vehicle is left unlocked and the key FOB not working afterwards. As if it loses the last code hand shake between key and car.

But it makes no sense - as should be same as removing battery and doing a hard reset.

Just seems to be a link in this story which we are yet to understand.