SRS light On!!

[Bohica]

This is giving me the irrits. I have taken apart the yellow plug and sprayed with contact cleaner. It is the same. Light stays on.
Options? Hard wire across the plug?
To me it seems stupid having it hang of the seat as the yellow end goes to the DCU. Surely this wiring could have been routed under the console?

added

The cables are black and white and purple and white and these do not go to the DCU. Where do they go? The hunt is on.

[sierrafery]

First of all what's the fault code which made that plug suspect ? If the code was about the pretensioner there are no BW and PW wires involved unless you mean the wires into the female plug which are coming from the buckle. What's the exact fault code ?

[AK83]

.....

The cables are black and white and purple and white and these do not go to the DCU. Where do they go? The hunt is on.

Whilst waiting for more info on this ...

have you checked fuses?

If not, try Fuse 35 in the drivers side panel(10Amp) .. also connected in the SRS system is Fusible Link 8(50Amp) in the engine bay fusebox.

[Bohica]

The fault code is
"CODE 032
The right hand pretensioner measures open circuit
(Intermittent)"

It looks as if the BW & PW cables go to the pretensioner. The cable heads that way.
And. I am guessing that since the solvent has all evaporated, the solvent is not causing an open circuit. The SRS light goes out and stays out.

added

A longer drive and the same fault appears. Cleared this with the Nanocom, maybe time for a new plug as I do not want to hard wire the connector.

[Bohica]

Whilst waiting for more info on this ...

have you checked fuses?

If not, try Fuse 35 in the drivers side panel(10Amp) .. also connected in the SRS system is Fusible Link 8(50Amp) in the engine bay fusebox.

The fuse is good, so is the fusible link, checked with a multi-meter.
The code changed to permanent was cleared with the Nanocom back to intermittent and cleared again to no fault.
I can't help but feel that it is the yellow plug that is faulty, ans as the cushion is loose, easyish to replace the plug.

[simonmelb]

Have you checked the yellow plug behind the glove box as well?

When I get the SRS light I just unplug and replug both, and the light goes away next re start.

[Bohica]

I didn't know there is a yellow plug behind the glove box! What gymnastics are needed to access it? Or do you just remove the glove box?
Would it get wet if water came in through the windscreen plenum?

[sierrafery]

Neglect the plug behind the glovebox cos it's for passenger's airbag, as long as the fault code is for the RH pretensioner your only problem is on that particular circuit no need to check anything else.

[maxperformance]

Men, my td5 has exactly the same "feature". I got it from previous owner who said it was like that from the previous owner. I never mind it but good to learn more and if anything we can fix it that's good too. :)

[Tins]

Men, my td5 has exactly the same "feature". I got it from previous owner who said it was like that from the previous owner. I never mind it but good to learn more and if anything we can fix it that's good too. :)

Here in Vic it would fail a RWC.

[simonmelb]

You just half open the glove box and look straight through to the firewall just above the glove box. Don't think it gets wet when the plenum leaks.


I didn't know there is a yellow plug behind the glove box! What gymnastics are needed to access it? Or do you just remove the glove box?
Would it get wet if water came in through the windscreen plenum?

[maxperformance]

LoL. Sorry mates. I found i put this comment into a wrong topic. I was referring to the feature of turn key to see Red immobiliser light, then have to press Fob once to disable the red light to start car. Mine does not have SRS light on.
Here in Vic it would fail a RWC.

[Bohica]

It seems that the problem is caused by the yellow plug, under the seat. The fault is the RHS pretensioner, open circuit.

The glove box plug would affect the LHS pretensioner. NO fault for this.

I did think of putting a multi meter across the plug, RAVE says no, as it might set of the squib.

I need to track where the leads from the RHS pretensioner go to see if there is a short long the way.
I think that replacing the yellow plug may be the way to go.

[Tins]

I did think of putting a multi meter across the plug, RAVE says no, as it might set of the squib.



Do not apply multimeter to any part of the SRS system.

[sierrafery]

The glove box plug would affect the LHS pretensioner. NO fault for this.

I did think of putting a multi meter across the plug, RAVE says no, as it might set of the squib.

I need to track where the leads from the RHS pretensioner go to see if there is a short long the way.
I think that replacing the yellow plug may be the way to go.Not the pretensioner but the airbag. As mentioned don't mess with multimeter there. The wires are one side directly to DCU the other into pretensioner unit. For the RHS pretensioner, unplug it and make a bridge with a wire in the yellow plug then read the fault code, you should get short circuit then which means that the circuit betweeen the DCU and that plug are OK and the probem is in the buckle side, if with that plug bridged you still get that open circuit the problem is in that part . If it's the buckle side better get a known good SH one cos most probably the problem is in the unit. You can try to unplug the pretensioner from the other seat and plug it into this one for test if the wires are long enough then you can rule out the wiring

[Tins]

How did you get on, Julian? My verdammt car has switched it's light on today.

[Bohica]

How did you get on, Julian? My verdammt car has switched it's light on today.

Mine comes and goes, at the moment the light is on. I am looking for a new plug. Something like this.

Automotive 2-Way Plug/Socket - 250 Series - 2 way | Jaycar Electronics (https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-2-way-plug-socket-250-series-2-way/p/PP2062)

I could hard wire it, but then no one will buy my wheel barrows!I have just had a look at the plug. It looks like the female - male parts are offset by 90degrees. giving only a knife edge of contact. And I had a camp lantern under the seat, this could have been banging the plug. The design seems planned to fail. Especially compared to all the oterh plugs on the Disco that last through hell and high water!!

[Bohica]

How did you get on, Julian? My verdammt car has switched it's light on today.

You can try disconnecting it, use contact cleaner and put back together. Any thigh under the seat that can bump into it?

[Tins]

You can try disconnecting it, use contact cleaner and put back together. Any thigh under the seat that can bump into it?

I haven't had a chance to look.

[Tins]

What I don't understand is the Nanocom couldn't communicate with the ECU, for the airbags only. Worked fine with everything else. So I couldn't pull a code.

[maxperformance]

Try to borrow another brand of current modern scanner, you might be surprised to see it throw out a code.

PS: my Autel Pro MK808 can pull out (almost) any code you want to know on a D2
What I don't understand is the Nanocom couldn't communicate with the ECU, for the airbags only. Worked fine with everything else. So I couldn't pull a code.

[ES4]

Hi, I had this srs light on and the code reported LH seat pre tensioner, went to check the yellow plug and someone had already linked it out, looked like a solder and sleeved join. reset the code then unclipped the harness under the seat and pulled, pushed and twisted it and couldn't get the fault to come back. However if I moved the seat (electric) the fault came back. so moving the seat electrically causes the fault but tugging on the harness does not. Strange. So I set the seat in a suitable position and removed the satellite fuses. The fault has never returned. (over a year now) I wonder if its electrical interference from the seat motors ?

[Bohica]

Hi, I had this srs light on and the code reported LH seat pre tensioner, went to check the yellow plug and someone had already linked it out, looked like a solder and sleeved join. reset the code then unclipped the harness under the seat and pulled, pushed and twisted it and couldn't get the fault to come back. However if I moved the seat (electric) the fault came back. so moving the seat electrically causes the fault but tugging on the harness does not. Strange. So I set the seat in a suitable position and removed the satellite fuses. The fault has never returned. (over a year now) I wonder if its electrical interference from the seat motors ?

Could you post a photo of this?
I've been lucky. No SRS for a couple of weeks.

[ES4]

Hi, This Yellow plug had already been removed and the yellow cables joined in an attempt to cure the fault. Personally I wound not have done this as it makes the seat removal difficult, When you unplug the yellow plug a shorting bar engages across the pins and prevents the belt retractors from firing. If I ever have to remove my seat I will need to make sure the system is discharged before I cut the yellow wire. I never got to the bottom of this fault as I am quite happy to leave the seat in the one position, but I do like to eliminate faults completely and not use workarounds. I think with this one if I am right about the seat motors inducing a field into the yellow cable, it might be worth re-routing it or trying to shield it if you think that's the fault. I could never get the SRS light to come on by moving the harness only by moving the seat [bighmmm]