View Full Version : puma clutch as a preventative measure?
Samblers
5th March 2021, 12:29 PM
Its my hobby to start new threads at the moment....
Another one.
I've been going through the 2010 110 recently giving it a bit of an overdue birthday, and prior to a 4 week trip up north with the family. Not hugely demanding for it, but disastrous if it lets us down (obvs nothing is guaranteed). Trying to remain sensible however, and not just chuck money at imagined problems.
 
Its done 120,000kms, mostly city driving, so I think about that clutch often. Its never been replaced (output shaft has, by LR under warranty). I also ride the clutch for longer, smoother gear-changes and take-offs, eliminating drivetrain clunks (wife just slams it in, and seems not to mind the gnashing terror beneath).
What do people think about clutch/slave replacement as a preventative/insurance measure... is this a step too far? Expensive, but i plan to keep the car, and may eventually have to do this anyway. How long does a puma friction plate typically last under city conditions? 
I'll also mention a noise i've noticed at stationary idle - a "taka-taka-taka-taka" which goes away when clutch pedal is pushed in. It's always been that way so i've ignored it.
And I also realise once the gbox/ transfer is out the wishlist will likely grow (ashcroft output shaft, drivetrain backlash,...) so a little hesitant to disturb everything given its working fine.
Anyone else done same? Advice appreciated
Sam
POD
5th March 2021, 09:29 PM
Mine's done 295,000km and works just fine.
Gav 110
5th March 2021, 10:40 PM
You can drive a manual without the clutch if it ever fails 
It’s always a bit of fun[emoji12]
But you’ll make it home[emoji106][emoji1531]
Maybe practice changing gears without the clutch one day
You’ll be how easy it is when your in tune with the car
Down changing can be a bit difficult but when you get it, “you get it”
Worst case, low range first on the start to get her going 🤭
Clutches if driven properly should see at least 250+
Gav
[emoji481][emoji481][emoji481]
Samblers
7th March 2021, 10:07 AM
Fair enough. Could be over-cautiousness on my behalf then.
Lots of threads on here about clutch replacements in the 60,000 - 100,000 km range, though many relate to rattles as opposed to failure to operate.
big harold
7th March 2021, 07:00 PM
Fair enough. Could be over-cautiousness on my behalf then.
Lots of threads on here about clutch replacements in the 60,000 - 100,000 km range, though many relate to rattles as opposed to failure to operate.
I have 2 Defenders both with 2.2L Puma and both have done slave cylinders at 110,000Km.
No warning when they go.
Mark
Samblers
7th March 2021, 09:19 PM
Yep, my mates 2014 2.2 slave went at 60k... probably not something that you’d contemplate replacing as a precaution though
cuppabillytea
8th March 2021, 10:31 AM
My Maser cylinder went at 80,K It's a throw away Item. Wouldn't replace it until it goes though. Just carry a bottle of fluid.
ian4002000
8th March 2021, 05:56 PM
2012 Puma My slave cylinder failed at 90 K's . I had a new clutch and master cylinder fitted. Did the driveshaft thing at the gearbox output. The clutch is now much easier to use and all the clunks are gone.
Do the clutch early it is easier than after it fails.
Ian 
Bittern
cuppabillytea
4th April 2021, 05:21 PM
I drove home fro Leura on Thursday night. The clutch was working fine until I got to Wattle St  at the end of the M4. I drove the last couple of Ks without it. Then in the morning it was working again. WTF?
DiscoMick
5th May 2021, 01:46 PM
That noise could be like the rattle ours developed at idle, which was stretched springs. LR produced an upgraded clutch, which from memory cost about $1600 when I checked. As we tow, I went with an AP HD clutch  which cost about $2600 back then. End of problem.
Its my hobby to start new threads at the moment....
Another one.
I've been going through the 2010 110 recently giving it a bit of an overdue birthday, and prior to a 4 week trip up north with the family. Not hugely demanding for it, but disastrous if it lets us down (obvs nothing is guaranteed). Trying to remain sensible however, and not just chuck money at imagined problems.
 
Its done 120,000kms, mostly city driving, so I think about that clutch often. Its never been replaced (output shaft has, by LR under warranty). I also ride the clutch for longer, smoother gear-changes and take-offs, eliminating drivetrain clunks (wife just slams it in, and seems not to mind the gnashing terror beneath).
What do people think about clutch/slave replacement as a preventative/insurance measure... is this a step too far? Expensive, but i plan to keep the car, and may eventually have to do this anyway. How long does a puma friction plate typically last under city conditions? 
I'll also mention a noise i've noticed at stationary idle - a "taka-taka-taka-taka" which goes away when clutch pedal is pushed in. It's always been that way so i've ignored it.
And I also realise once the gbox/ transfer is out the wishlist will likely grow (ashcroft output shaft, drivetrain backlash,...) so a little hesitant to disturb everything given its working fine.
Anyone else done same? Advice appreciated
Sam
DazzaTD5
5th May 2021, 05:45 PM
There is enough threads and info relating to Defender TDCi (2007 - 2016, puma) clutch issues and the adaptor shaft failures, its all there part numbers and all.
*Expect the clutch to take a dump from anywhere of 70K to say 120K.
*It will rattle like a faulty gearbox on idle in neutral.
*Be aware though if the springs on the driven plate full out it often jams the whole clutch up.
*NEVER use the genuine land rover / ford clutch, heavy duty or not.
*I use ClutchFix clutches.
*Have used SACH and AP in the past which seem ok.
*Replace the slave and hydraulic fittings with the upgraded ones at the same time.
DazzaTD5
5th May 2021, 05:46 PM
Mine's done 295,000km and works just fine.
That's because its already had at least one clutch [tonguewink]
DazzaTD5
5th May 2021, 05:53 PM
That noise could be like the rattle ours developed at idle, which was stretched springs. LR produced an upgraded clutch, which from memory cost about $1600 when I checked. As we tow, I went with an AP HD clutch  which cost about $2600 back then. End of problem.
Woh! not having a go at you but they must be some unreal HD clutch at that price, surely that must have been labour in that and the adaptor shaft??
I do a HD clutch (550NM, 20/30% greater pressure bluh bluh etc) and the ashcroft kit fitted for that sort of dollars. I will also even give a smile... maybe [tonguewink]
I sometimes wonder if some repair places are just taking the ****
DiscoMick
7th May 2021, 11:59 AM
They might have been. It was several years ago and they later went out of business.
Samblers
27th May 2021, 04:29 PM
I decided that it was better to sleep at night and got the clutch and adaptor shaft replaced - many thanks to Darren at Aztech 4x4 in Perth.
The clutch springs were ready to fall out and the adaptor shaft splines on their way to stripping... and it turns out LR hadn't replaced it under warranty after all.
 171225 171226
You live and learn.
Cheers, Sam
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