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Thread: puma clutch as a preventative measure?

  1. #1
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    puma clutch as a preventative measure?

    Its my hobby to start new threads at the moment....

    Another one.

    I've been going through the 2010 110 recently giving it a bit of an overdue birthday, and prior to a 4 week trip up north with the family. Not hugely demanding for it, but disastrous if it lets us down (obvs nothing is guaranteed). Trying to remain sensible however, and not just chuck money at imagined problems.

    Its done 120,000kms, mostly city driving, so I think about that clutch often. Its never been replaced (output shaft has, by LR under warranty). I also ride the clutch for longer, smoother gear-changes and take-offs, eliminating drivetrain clunks (wife just slams it in, and seems not to mind the gnashing terror beneath).

    What do people think about clutch/slave replacement as a preventative/insurance measure... is this a step too far? Expensive, but i plan to keep the car, and may eventually have to do this anyway. How long does a puma friction plate typically last under city conditions?

    I'll also mention a noise i've noticed at stationary idle - a "taka-taka-taka-taka" which goes away when clutch pedal is pushed in. It's always been that way so i've ignored it.

    And I also realise once the gbox/ transfer is out the wishlist will likely grow (ashcroft output shaft, drivetrain backlash,...) so a little hesitant to disturb everything given its working fine.

    Anyone else done same? Advice appreciated

    Sam

  2. #2
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    Mine's done 295,000km and works just fine.

  3. #3
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    puma clutch as a preventative measure?

    You can drive a manual without the clutch if it ever fails
    It’s always a bit of funpuma clutch as a preventative measure?
    But you’ll make it homepuma clutch as a preventative measure?puma clutch as a preventative measure?

    Maybe practice changing gears without the clutch one day
    You’ll be how easy it is when your in tune with the car
    Down changing can be a bit difficult but when you get it, “you get it”
    Worst case, low range first on the start to get her going 🤭

    Clutches if driven properly should see at least 250+


    Gav

    puma clutch as a preventative measure?puma clutch as a preventative measure?puma clutch as a preventative measure?
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

  4. #4
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    Fair enough. Could be over-cautiousness on my behalf then.

    Lots of threads on here about clutch replacements in the 60,000 - 100,000 km range, though many relate to rattles as opposed to failure to operate.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samblers View Post
    Fair enough. Could be over-cautiousness on my behalf then.

    Lots of threads on here about clutch replacements in the 60,000 - 100,000 km range, though many relate to rattles as opposed to failure to operate.
    I have 2 Defenders both with 2.2L Puma and both have done slave cylinders at 110,000Km.
    No warning when they go.
    Mark

  6. #6
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    Yep, my mates 2014 2.2 slave went at 60k... probably not something that you’d contemplate replacing as a precaution though

  7. #7
    cuppabillytea's Avatar
    cuppabillytea is offline Loud Mouthed Rat Bag Gold Subscriber
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    My Maser cylinder went at 80,K It's a throw away Item. Wouldn't replace it until it goes though. Just carry a bottle of fluid.
    Cheers, Billy.
    Keeping it simple is complicated.

  8. #8
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    2012 Puma My slave cylinder failed at 90 K's . I had a new clutch and master cylinder fitted. Did the driveshaft thing at the gearbox output. The clutch is now much easier to use and all the clunks are gone.

    Do the clutch early it is easier than after it fails.

    Ian
    Bittern

  9. #9
    cuppabillytea's Avatar
    cuppabillytea is offline Loud Mouthed Rat Bag Gold Subscriber
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    I drove home fro Leura on Thursday night. The clutch was working fine until I got to Wattle St at the end of the M4. I drove the last couple of Ks without it. Then in the morning it was working again. WTF?
    Cheers, Billy.
    Keeping it simple is complicated.

  10. #10
    DiscoMick Guest
    That noise could be like the rattle ours developed at idle, which was stretched springs. LR produced an upgraded clutch, which from memory cost about $1600 when I checked. As we tow, I went with an AP HD clutch which cost about $2600 back then. End of problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by Samblers View Post
    Its my hobby to start new threads at the moment....

    Another one.

    I've been going through the 2010 110 recently giving it a bit of an overdue birthday, and prior to a 4 week trip up north with the family. Not hugely demanding for it, but disastrous if it lets us down (obvs nothing is guaranteed). Trying to remain sensible however, and not just chuck money at imagined problems.

    Its done 120,000kms, mostly city driving, so I think about that clutch often. Its never been replaced (output shaft has, by LR under warranty). I also ride the clutch for longer, smoother gear-changes and take-offs, eliminating drivetrain clunks (wife just slams it in, and seems not to mind the gnashing terror beneath).

    What do people think about clutch/slave replacement as a preventative/insurance measure... is this a step too far? Expensive, but i plan to keep the car, and may eventually have to do this anyway. How long does a puma friction plate typically last under city conditions?

    I'll also mention a noise i've noticed at stationary idle - a "taka-taka-taka-taka" which goes away when clutch pedal is pushed in. It's always been that way so i've ignored it.

    And I also realise once the gbox/ transfer is out the wishlist will likely grow (ashcroft output shaft, drivetrain backlash,...) so a little hesitant to disturb everything given its working fine.

    Anyone else done same? Advice appreciated

    Sam

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