Coolant Hoses

[d2dave]

Whilst my engine is out I want to change my coolant hoses, as they all the originals since new.

What are you using. Looking at genuine I would need to sell a kidney to fund this.

Are after market ok? Best place to buy?

[rick130]

I use genuine except for the top hose (good brand silicone) as the new genuine hoses weep back through the plies, the vulcanising on the tees isn't great.
Oh, and a silicone blank on the oil cooler outlet.

Hoses are one spot in particular i won't scrimp and take a risk

[reefmagnet]

I purchased my hoses on eBay which seems to work out cheaper than buying from online retailers when postage is required. Cost under $200 for "most" of the hoses on two orders (still haven't got my head around the complexities of the d2 cooling circuit yet, lol). Hoses were described as EOM, and they do look much like the originals, but made in Pakistan. Been on for a only a couple of weeks but no leaks or any dramas with installation. Time will tell how long they will hold up, I guess.

[onebob]

Whilst my engine is out I want to change my coolant hoses, as they all the originals since new.

What are you using. Looking at genuine I would need to sell a kidney to fund this.

Are after market ok? Best place to buy?

Collectively over a period of time I have purchased all new “genuine” hoses. Latterly adding an OEM thermostat, a water pump and new rad to the pile of stuff to refit. The most expensive hose is the top hose - don’t go cheap with this one. Roverlord is where I got my hoses.

[p38arover]

Does Mackay still make hoses in Australia? They made the hoses for the Perentie and a number of Aussie built cars.

[d2dave]

Oh, and a silicone blank on the oil cooler outlet.



I'm guessing this is because of turbo heat, yes?

Where can I get one of these? I looked on ebay and could only find them in China.

[d2dave]

Roverlord is where I got my hoses.

I looked there and he had no hoses, only thermostat.

[Tombie]

Put simply - pattern parts are usually made from Generation one OE.

Over time the OE get updated (eg TD5 top hose to stop it rubbing) but the Pattern Parts do not.

Tread carefully [emoji41]

Or go full Silicone [emoji41]$$

[d2dave]

Are silicon hosed that good. I had always thought they were, but some recent research has suggested otherwise.

[onebob]

I looked there and he had no hoses, only thermostat.

I never look at his online shop - I make a parts request via email. Seldom can he not supply, like when I asked for a Starter Motor rebuild kit, or a Lt230 Transfer Case rebuild kit. But in the case of the more “commonly” sought after items like filters, thermostats, water pumps and hoses… never a problem [emoji1417]

[trout1105]

If you fit cheap hoses then I suggest that you hang onto the money you have saved by not getting the genuine hoses because you will most likely need it to help pay for the repairs to a cooked engine[bigwhistle]

[rick130]

Are silicon hosed that good. I had always thought they were, but some recent research has suggested otherwise.Silicone isn't ideal for coolant, they do need to have a flurosilicone liner to seal them otherwise they bleed and some OAT coolants will attack them, (soften) so I'm selective.
[Edit] I've just read that flurosilicone liners are showing shortened life in use, too.

And yes, I prefer the blanking hose in silicone as it's tucked beneath and between the exhaust manifold and that round whirly thing that traps and rejects a bucket load of heat.

As for Roverlord, ditto, I just email Mario and Heather with a list of bits and they advise availability, put together a care parcel and send it off.
Great service [emoji16]

[V8Ian]

I never look at his online shop - I make a parts request via email. Seldom can he not supply, like when I asked for a Starter Motor rebuild kit, or a Lt230 Transfer Case rebuild kit. But in the case of the more “commonly” sought after items like filters, thermostats, water pumps and hoses… never a problem [emoji1417]
If you order by PM, you get an AULRO discount.

[reefmagnet]

If you fit cheap hoses then I suggest that you hang onto the money you have saved by not getting the genuine hoses because you will most likely need it to help pay for the repairs to a cooked engine[bigwhistle]

I hear what you're saying, but I don't think that is necessarily 100% true, and I'll explain why.

First and foremost, I have had the experience of an engine being destroyed due to a failed coolant hose. This was back in 1986 in the era of 12 month warranties and I had a Mitsubishi Sigma, 18 months old at the time that had this little eeny-teeny hose buried inside the engine that heated the intake manifold rupture. Of course, like all good temperature gauges it registered nothing out of the ordinary as the coolant got pumped out. The first indication of a problem was when the engine seized. [bawl] So much for that OEM hose.

Back on subject, what is sold as genuine OEM isn't necessarily the same component as was installed on the vehicle when it was on the assembly line. There are reasons for this. The most notable is that the car maker needs backups to their production suppliers, so will preference other suppliers to make OEM products. Another reason is that a spare parts supplier usually will make the OEM spares for a range of current and past models in small batches, whereas the supplier to manufacturing will be more geared towards turning out zillions of the same component for whatever the current model is. Obviously, one would expect that the car maker would keep tabs on the quality of the supply, but other than that, their involvement in the manufacturing process kind of ends there.

The other aspect is markup costs. I can give you a first hand example from a time when we actually built cars in Australia. A certain muffler company was given the OEM contract by a certain car maker to make mufflers as genuine spare parts. This muffler company was well known in aftermarket circles but had never been contracted to supply mufflers for the assembly line. Now there was nothing wrong with the mufflers that the company made for genuine spare parts, except that they were (roughly) about twice the price as the same muffler, grabbed from the same bin, and sold under their own brand to the customer.

Having said that, I'm a sucker for "genuine" factory spares to the point of paying $20 each for wheel nuts (thank you, tyre shop!) and even $100+ for 4l of premixed OEM coolant to match what's already in there but when it comes to "consumable" spares I'm happy enough to go with those sold by major suppliers. However, this is for our main vehicle which is worth considerably more than the old Disco and the reality is it can be hard to justify spending top dollar on a vehicle with a fairly low intrinsic value unless that vehicle is heavily depended upon.

Even so, I wouldn't advocate that cheap copies are the way to go, but I do think that anything that is branded and sold through reputable retailers in any kind of quantity are likely to be a safe enough bet.

[Tombie]

Genuine parts regardless of who is spitting them out still use the updated design/tooling.

So at least you’re getting the revised component.

[Tombie]

Silicone isn't ideal for coolant, they do need to have a flurosilicone liner to seal them otherwise they bleed and some OAT coolants will attack them, (soften) so I'm selective.
[Edit] I've just read that flurosilicone liners are showing shortened life in use, too.

And yes, I prefer the blanking hose in silicone as it's tucked beneath and between the exhaust manifold and that round whirly thing that traps and rejects a bucket load of heat.

As for Roverlord, ditto, I just email Mario and Heather with a list of bits and they advise availability, put together a care parcel and send it off.
Great service [emoji16]

Yes, must be lined hoses. Then they seem to be quite good.

I use Samco, but pay for the privilege.

[rick130]

Yes, must be lined hoses. Then they seem to be quite good.

I use Samco, but pay for the privilege.I've a mix of Samco and Pioneer, which is made in the UK too.

[Kaaaiju]

How much is that? 10%
If you order by PM, you get an AULRO discount.

[V8Ian]

How much is that? 10%
Enough to cover the postage.

[d2dave]

Silicone isn't ideal for coolant, they do need to have a flurosilicone liner to seal them otherwise they bleed and some OAT coolants will attack them, (soften)

What about the Cummins PG Planinum that I use? Will it work ok with silicone hoses?

From what I am reading I guess something like the link below must be junk?

Silicone Coolant Hose in Blue Suitable for Discovery 2 2.5L TD5 Vehicles (Includes:Full coolant Kit) (7 hose kit) - BA 10760 - BEARMACH Branded - Bearmach (https://bearmach.com/product/silicone-hoses-cococosh/silicone-coolant-hose-in-blue-suitable-for-discovery-2-2-5l-td5-vehicles-includes-full-coolant-kit-7-hose-kit-ba-10760)

[rick130]

What about the Cummins PG Planinum that I use? Will it work ok with silicone hoses?

From what I am reading I guess something like the link below must be junk?

Silicone Coolant Hose in Blue Suitable for Discovery 2 2.5L TD5 Vehicles (Includes:Full coolant Kit) (7 hose kit) - BA 10760 - BEARMACH Branded - Bearmach (https://bearmach.com/product/silicone-hoses-cococosh/silicone-coolant-hose-in-blue-suitable-for-discovery-2-2-5l-td5-vehicles-includes-full-coolant-kit-7-hose-kit-ba-10760)I haven't had any leaks yet with my Samco and Pioneer hoses, but I've only been running the Cummins coolant for abour 8 months

The genuine top hose leaked like a sieve with genuine (Caltex) OAT.


That Bearmach house is UK made so hopefully ok.

[d2dave]

Rick, are you using PG Platinum?

[rick130]

Rick, are you using PG Platinum?Yep

[mylesaway]

I agree with Tombie re Samco..

Have purchased the oil cooler blanking plugs from Racebikebitzuk(via ebay)

$30 freight from UK, hence I bought 2 with quality clamps for $54. Part No. BCP/19-RED.

DO NOT BUY blanking plugs from Supacr@p..3mm thick on the sides, 1mm on the end! Built to fail...

And don't ask how I know..[bighmmm]

Cheers

[rick130]

I agree with Tombie re Samco..

Have purchased the oil cooler blanking plugs from Racebikebitzuk(via ebay)

$30 freight from UK, hence I bought 2 with quality clamps for $54. Part No. BCP/19-RED.

DO NOT BUY blanking plugs from Supacr@p..3mm thick on the sides, 1mm on the end! Built to fail...

And don't ask how I know..[bighmmm]

CheersWilliams Race Parts on the Gold Coast stock the blanking hoses too (Samco)
That's where I bought mine.

[johnp38]

I agree with Tombie re Samco..

Have purchased the oil cooler blanking plugs from Racebikebitzuk(via ebay)

$30 freight from UK, hence I bought 2 with quality clamps for $54. Part No. BCP/19-RED.

DO NOT BUY blanking plugs from Supacr@p..3mm thick on the sides, 1mm on the end! Built to fail...

And don't ask how I know..[bighmmm]

Cheers

Mackay BC19 5mm all round, filled 1/3 with silicone adhesive/sealant and popped on. $20 for 2 at AUTOPRO Elizabeth . Supercheap had them $17 each on special order.

[fredd63]

I remember MANY years ago, travelling with an RAA service mechanic to collect an HK Holden with a blown water hose. It was 13 months old.
But then, I have had 13 year old cars with original hoses.

[reefmagnet]

I had an old Patrol that had it's own version of the secret hose hiding under the water pump. I touched at at about the 25 year mark and it cracked like Land Rover interior plastic lol.

[RRT]

Are silicon hosed that good. I had always thought they were, but some recent research has suggested otherwise.

Was surprised to read this, so did do some! Whilst some is anecdotal and difficult to take as gospel, did find an article that pointed to a release from Gates, the way I read it, essentially it says in extreme conditions (take a TD5 engine bay as extreme) to use Silicon hoses but beware that they actually are porous and will constantly lose fluid and potentially this to detrimental levels if not checked.

https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/media/files/gates-au/heavy-duty/hd-tech-tips/new-hose-technology-advances-cooling-system-performance.pdf

The issue of quality of silicone as with any product is still suck it and see...

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

PG Platinum is by far the best option, I've been using it for 8 years in the D2 and the last 4 years on the RRC as its also suitable where non OAT is specified.

Previously used Cat ELC for a couple of years in the D2 but the PG tech wise stacks up far better.

Having changed the top hose last night and having to retrieve the bleed bung that fell away from the hose, pulled off the 10 year old water outlet and other than the normal diecast darkening from the coolant doing its job, the inside of the head was a beautiful clean shiny light bronze tint and absolute zero corrosion anywhere inside it or the water outlet.

I just fitted the Bearmach upgrade top hose which has the thermoplastic tees in it, I still can't justify the cost of silicone over the known issues with it.