Discovery 2a V8 SE advice

[sippahodge]

Hi All,

I'm new to this forum and this will be my first post outside of my introduction post. I am looking for a Discovery or RR from D2a to D4. I missed out on a D2a HSE v8 I think was owned by a forum member but another one has come up for sale.

It is a 2003 SE V8 with 128k km. My reading and research has indicated to me it is only a matter of time, if it hasn't already, before the liners will slip in the rover V8 requiring a Top Hat liner short block as a permanent fix.

For those of you who have done the Top Hat engine would you do it again?

What sort of money were you up for? Triumph Rover Spares has a bare block listed for $2950

Would you consider a LS engine swap as an alternative? Has someone here done an LS swap? Have seen LS engine, tranny and all associated parts required for a conversion without adaptor plates and mounts listed around the $6000. I think you can buy almost everything else off the shelf from LRA and Marks 4x4.

Failing this I'd probably try and find a 2.7l D4 or TDV8 RR. What you all think?

[PhilipA]

It is a 2003 SE V8 with 128k km. My reading and research has indicated to me it is only a matter of time, if it hasn't already, before the liners will slip in the rover V8 requiring a Top Hat liner short block as a permanent fix.
You are probably correct as it is the operating temperature that causes the problem.

if you replaced it with a top hatted block, AND ran it at 88C the new engine would probably last "forever"

My 91 RRC was going strong at 225KK as it had NEVER been overheated over 100C . Camshafts were another matter of course as the base diameter of the cam lobes is too small for them to last a long time.

Regards PhilipA

[V8Ian]

Fit a low coolant alarm. The liners only slip if the motor has been overheated.

[sippahodge]

Fit a low coolant alarm. The liners only slip if the motor has been overheated.

Are you telling me it can be avoided?

[V8Ian]

Liner slippage is the result of overheating. Keep the temperature within range and the liners wont move.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

PM me!!!

[Eevo]

i overheated mine many times (HG problem)
20,000km later and liners had not moved.

[sippahodge]

PM me!!!

PM sent

[pop058]

PM me!!!


PM sent

Pedro, ignore my PM ( apparently) [bigwhistle]

[sippahodge]

Do you think a 2.7l D4 is a better all round option for getting out with the family onto some islands and 4x4 camping? More reliable than a D2a? would use less fuel and probably a lot more comfortable?

[Eevo]

yes, d4 is 10 years newer

[gavinwibrow]

yes, d4 is 10 years newer


And much as I loved my D2a, the D3/4 is a quantum leap forward in comfort and capability. LR did a lot of development work on the suspension and it shows. Go for a burn in one.

[Bohica]

And much as I loved my D2a, the D3/4 is a quantum leap forward in comfort and capability. LR did a lot of development work on the suspension and it shows. Go for a burn in one.

No, I'd want one. The same reason I do not test drive a Tesla, I'd sell the children to buy one!!

[sippahodge]

And much as I loved my D2a, the D3/4 is a quantum leap forward in comfort and capability. LR did a lot of development work on the suspension and it shows. Go for a burn in one.

I have had a D4 for a weekend, going back a few years but it was nice then, no offroad with it.

Cheers

[PhilipA]

But you have to be VERY careful if buying a D4 or should I say D$.

front suspension , handbrake, compressor, auto , engine in a small percentage, airbags, timing belts etc etc. And everything is expensive.

But a D2 is now the realm of enthusiasts or idiots like me. If you cannot work on them yourself you will be nickle and dimed to death.
Regards PhilipA

[Roverlord off road spares]

But you have to be VERY careful if buying a D4 or should I say D$.

front suspension , handbrake, compressor, auto , engine in a small percentage, airbags, timing belts etc etc. And everything is expensive.

But a D2 is now the realm of enthusiasts or idiots like me. If you cannot work on them yourself you will be nickle and dimed to death.
Regards PhilipA
you forgot plastic manifolds, door actuators, and expensive auto trans fluid, that's the price you pay for newer generation cars.

[discorevy]

But you have to be VERY careful if buying a D4 or should I say D$.

front suspension , handbrake, compressor, auto , engine in a small percentage, airbags, timing belts etc etc. And everything is expensive.

But a D2 is now the realm of enthusiasts or idiots like me. If you cannot work on them yourself you will be nickle and dimed to death.
Regards PhilipA


you forgot plastic manifolds, door actuators, and expensive auto trans fluid, that's the price you pay for newer generation cars.

on top of that lot there is the top coolant outlet, split intercooler hoses ,oil coolers , coolant bottles, high pressure fuel pump$.
wheel bearings and alternators that fail on average 100 000k earlier than D2.
front diff and early turbo failure on some models
high maintenance suspension components ., switches.

Stops for breath

Then there's the brake light switch than can get you stranded off road, or the transfer case actuator that can fail on creek crossings, or the silly dial ( 8 speed ) that can leave you stranded anywhere when it fails.
Pair that with the fact that most everything on them is a pain to work on ( even after years of doing so ) and the fact that plastic on and around an engine doesn't age well and you can guess they're not a favourite with mechanics..... But they drive nice and can be kept on the road if :
1: you are prepared to spend lot$ on maintenance or
2: It's less than 6 or 7 years old.

Well sorted D2 although a lot older are more reliable ,a lot cheaper to maintain, more fun and not hard to bring up to modern power levels . mates SDV6 D4 can not out accelerate my old bush pig from any speed much to his disgust.

:burnrubber:

[Eevo]

and you need to put fuel into it every week too