Magnum 9K winch rebuild?

[VladTepes]

I gather the Magnum 9K winch is the same winch as the Tabor 9K.

If that's the case I found this DNA Knowledge Base :: Warn Tabor 9K parts list (dnaoffroad.com.au) (http://help.dnaoffroad.com.au/questions/42/Warn+Tabor+9K+parts+list)

I also gather it is very similar too the Warn XD9000 but with a different (not as good) motor?

Can anyone confirm?

I am looking for a rebuild guide for the Magnum 9K please and also a source of parts / rebuild kit.

Also I don't have a working solenoid - what should I get? Albright? Thompson?
Specific model number would be helpful.

[VladTepes]

Further to the above I found the following, dated 2016 on the Patrol forum.


The old ones (10 years) had a two field motor (count the big torx bolts around motor housing; 2 @ 180 degrees = very bad, 4 @ 90 degrees = very good) and the two field job would burn out the armature if you gave it a dirty look. Those ones also had this appalling spiral spring brake that would live up to its name and break very easily. The newer ones have 4 field better quality motors (still not as good as XD9000 motor) and normal warn brake (very good).

Mine has 4 :)

[VladTepes]

Also regarding Dyneema rope

The winch has been lying around for years since I acquired it, and I've no idea of the history of it previous to that.
I've no idea if it spent its life in a garage or in the sun, etc.

It does have Dyneema rope on it currently but would it be prudent to replace the rope?

And if so, what brand and what length and where to buy?

Ta

[Hogarthde]

Yup, get new Dyneema, or steel wire rope.

i think the dyneema is about 6kg lighter than s,w.r. at 30 metres.,( which is what I have )

perhaps buy from a ship chandler ?

[VladTepes]

I definitely want Dyneema I don't like tensioned steel rope near me if I can help it.

What diameter Dyneema you have - 10mm? or 11?
I think a 9000 lb low mount winch can spool nearly 30 m of 10mm or 24 m of 11mm.
I think.

I would imagine the chandlers don't sell it already with loops for winch drum attachment and hook attachment though. That's why I thought buying from a winch place would be better.

[Hogarthde]

Vehicle is away shopping just now, but I reckon would be 10 mm,

Get Bob 10 to splice a bight for you

or if you get 1 1/2 inch wire rope ,I could find my marlin spike and do it for you [bighmmm]

[gusthedog]

We used to joke that it was 9X rather than 9K when I was a project fire fighter and that was how many times it would work before it died. We must've had the crap ones.

I find tensioned steel cable perfectly fine if you use it with care and a damper.

If you do go with rope, make sure you get a cover or whip one up to cover the rope as they really don't like Aussie sunlight.

[VladTepes]

OK, I got 30m x 10mm dyneema rope made in Australia,
Bloke I bought it from is going to home deliver as he lives nearby LOL

[VladTepes]

Rope I got doesn't have any protection for the drum end - need to get some sleeving for that first wrap as apparently those drums can get pretty hot thanks to that brake. Hopefully I can pick that up from a marine store or something.

[VladTepes]

I reckon this grease will do the job nicely.

Penrite Moly Grease Tub 500g | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/penrite-penrite-moly-grease-tub-500g/1935.html?cgid=SCA010708#start=30)

[Hogarthde]

Looks like you are well on top of things 👍

Give the winch a workout every couple of months, ... park on the lawn and spool out then winch in, seems to keep them happy.

[VladTepes]

WINCH HOOK

I;d like to keep the existing dyneema rope as a backup/extension (may not work but always worth a try)

The trouble is the winch hook seems to be 'permanently' mounted to the eye of the dyneema rope.

So where modern hooks look like this - with a split pin which allows that 'rod' (for want of an accurate word) to be removed

175040

The one I have looks as if the rod has been put in place and then peened so it can't be removed. (no split pin provision)

I could grind it out but then would need to obtain an appropriate piece of steel to replace that rod. Something which is good in shear.


Suggestions?

[W&KO]

WINCH HOOK

I;d like to keep the existing dyneema rope as a backup/extension (may not work but always worth a try)

The trouble is the winch hook seems to be 'permanently' mounted to the eye of the dyneema rope.

So where modern hooks look like this - with a split pin which allows that 'rod' (for want of an accurate word) to be removed

175040

The one I have looks as if the rod has been put in place and then peened so it can't be removed. (no split pin provision)

I could grind it out but then would need to obtain an appropriate piece of steel to replace that rod. Something which is good in shear.


Suggestions?

No need for hooks on a winch extension……and

when switching to Dyneema you really want to eliminate as much steel as possible.

I use a soft shackle to join the winch extension to the winch rope.

My dyneema extension has an eyelet each end.

You removed this rope as it was old and sun damaged right?? If this is the case I wouldn’t be using as winch extension.

I personally wouldn’t be grinding/removing pins on hooks and replacing with a random piece of steel……after all you’re replacing to rope to enable safe winching.

if you really want to save the hook I’d suggest purchasing a hammer lock to join the hook to the rope.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211112/d2dfcf3b367c3a7ad556abd81f1c4ccf.jpg

[VladTepes]

I need a hook on the end somehow, for attaching to chains for dragging stuff if needed, etc There's always a use for a hook.

Hammer lock?

Also what to use as snatch blocks for dyneema rope?

[roverrescue]

I know I’m late to the party
But with respect to rebuild
They are a starter motor bolted to a cage with a simple planetary box … zero rocket science

Pull apart
Clean
Grease and put together


The existing rope might be a bit shagged but when dyneema et.al. Let’s go even with a winch at stall it is pretty uneventful !

I would cut your new rope and just spool about 15m of fresh rope on the drum - then when you pull it out you are into the strength of the winch ! Use the other 15m and the old rope as extensions …

Can use all sorts of fancy Connections but trust me

A bowline in heavy dyneema won’t break at even 15000lb winch on stall
And you undo it with a pair of pliers

Anyways

This is me

[VladTepes]

I'm trying to track down what the go is with seals/gaskets on these winches.
As far as the main components are concerned where the bolt together I found no seals or gaskets. I'm unsure whether it was assembled without them at one point or whether that's normal.

On the bright side the motor seems to be in good nick on the inside - no obvious damage etc.
I'm hoping my failed test of it was flawed (maybe not making good connections on exterior lugs etc) and that the motor is actually working. Does need a clean up of the commutator a bit (emery paper will do the job its not bad).

[Hogarthde]

If the commutator is that good, just a light touch with abrasive paper is sufficient , and don’t cut the mica grooves.

Next thing is to head for Mt. Dare and try the little beast out😉

[VladTepes]

another in the list of jobs not done yet.,


Just adding these links for my future reference


Warn tie rod set - with bolts [Warn 98279] DNA Off Road Pty Ltd (https://www.dnaoffroad.com.au/warn-tie-rod-set-with-bolts-warn-98279.html)


Durite winch / battery isolator with removable key and splash proof cover DNA Off Road Pty Ltd (https://www.dnaoffroad.com.au/durite-winch-battery-isolator-with-removable-key-and-splash-proof-cover.html)


Warn drum bushing kit of 2 98349 [was 13831] DNA Off Road Pty Ltd (https://www.dnaoffroad.com.au/warn-drum-bushing.html)


Albright Winch Solenoids — Scintex Australia (https://www.scintex.com.au/products/albright-winch-solenoids)