Can anyone identify this tapping noise?

[ted2910]

Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone can identify this new tapping noise that has appeared on my 2007 RRS 2.7 TDV6?
Doesn't sound real good to me!

Thanks

175506175507

[shack]

It doesn't sound good! But I can't diagnose that from the video, maybe someone else can....but I would not be starting it again until it's been checked by a workshop that knows that particular model motor.

[loanrangie]

Could be numerous things but mine sounded like that when one of the injectors wasn't seated/sealed correctly after replacing the copper washers.

[DiscoDB]

A few worrying videos to compare the noise with.

Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 engine noise - whats the problem here? (Spoiler - it was a spun main bearing) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuNC1z70Vg4)
Range rover sport 3.0l Tdv6 Engine Tapping Noise.. Any one got any ideas..? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lLSAXxWce8)
Range Rover Sport - 2.7 TDV6 Top End Engine tapping/hammering sound - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ0Pz7b_Das)

The last video was never resolved what it was.

[Pippin]

A few worrying videos to compare the noise with.

Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 engine noise - whats the problem here? (Spoiler - it was a spun main bearing) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuNC1z70Vg4)
Range rover sport 3.0l Tdv6 Engine Tapping Noise.. Any one got any ideas..? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lLSAXxWce8)
Range Rover Sport - 2.7 TDV6 Top End Engine tapping/hammering sound - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ0Pz7b_Das)

The last video was never resolved what it was. I wish I hadn't listened to those! The OP sounds like the top end to me.

[ted2910]

It doesn't sound good! But I can't diagnose that from the video, maybe someone else can....but I would not be starting it again until it's been checked by a workshop that knows that particular model motor.


Thanks Shack,

I live up in Gladstone QLD so they are hard to find!!

[ted2910]

A few worrying videos to compare the noise with.

Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 engine noise - whats the problem here? (Spoiler - it was a spun main bearing) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuNC1z70Vg4)
Range rover sport 3.0l Tdv6 Engine Tapping Noise.. Any one got any ideas..? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lLSAXxWce8)
Range Rover Sport - 2.7 TDV6 Top End Engine tapping/hammering sound - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ0Pz7b_Das)

The last video was never resolved what it was.

Thanks again Disco DB, Sounds more like the last one that was unresolved to me.

[ted2910]

Could be numerous things but mine sounded like that when one of the injectors wasn't seated/sealed correctly after replacing the copper washers.

Cheers loanrangie,

I'll check the injectors.

[ted2910]

I've put the same on the Range Rover forum, just to add Disco DB and my response-

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by DiscoDB https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l320-range-rover-sport/289052-can-anyone-identify-tapping-noise-post3123557.html#post3123557)
https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji33.png

So at this stage I would not do any more test runs until you work out what it is (let people listen to your video if they want to hear it). If it is a spun bearing this will lead to a snapped crank. Although sadly the cost to rectify either case will be the same, but at least one outcome is rebuildable.

I personally would pull out the oil filter, cut it open (so I could expand it fully) and look for metals bits between the accordion. You can also get an oil sample analysed to confirm it is (or isn’t) a bearing failure.

When you remove the oil filter, look to see if it had a crushed spigot due to not being fitted properly.

That is planning for the worse. Hopefully though it is something a lot simpler and cheaper to fix, and someone will pipe in with a much more optimistic theory.



Thanks DiscoDB,

I have removed the Oil filter and it looks all good, no crushed spigot. I have drained the oil (looks good) and removed the oil sump to check. I found about 6 small flakes that looked a copper colour? but no other metal shavings etc. I'll do the filter chop tomorrow.

I haven't had it for long and the previous owner replaced the engine due to the old oil pump housing failure with a low klm engine
that had 50,000 k's on it, now its about 69,000 k's. Would be very unlucky to replace it again!! I've always looked after it and replaced the oil twice in the year I've had it. Fingers crossed.

I'll suss out getting the oil sampled.

Cheers mate much appreciated.

[ted2910]

Would anyone know a good LR mechanic in QLD that could help me with this?
I don't mind putting it on a trailer and going the distance!

Cheers

[DiscoDB]

Thanks again Disco DB, Sounds more like the last one that was unresolved to me.

Agreed - that was the one which the dealer claimed it was normal (would have to disagree with that).

Slo-mo video recordings at 240fps are great for diagnostics. When played back it slows the recording right down that you can actually hear each individual cylinder firing. This then gives you a clear 6 beat which is at half the engine rpm. From this you can zero in on if the noise is at this rate or double this.

[101RRS]

As I said on your other post on exactly the same topic - sounds all normal to me and sounds like my 2007 2.7 TDV6 RRS - and it has sounded the same for the last 14 years and 200,000km - it is just the normal diesel rattle - listen to a Crapota Diesel and it is a lot worse.

[DiscoDB]

Another similar one - this is a 3.0 HDI that had been in an accident. Turned out to be an injector connector not seated properly. Includes link to sound afterwards in the comments section.

3,0hdi/TDV6 is this a faulty valve lifter ? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqNeedYXNhk)

[josh.huber]

Would anyone know a good LR mechanic in QLD that could help me with this?
I don't mind putting it on a trailer and going the distance!

Cheers

I have been to land Rover spares Mackay, when I lived up there, does a good job.

[ted2910]

I have been to land Rover spares Mackay, when I lived up there, does a good job.

Thanks Josh, I'll give him a bell.

Cheers

[ted2910]

Another similar one - this is a 3.0 HDI that had been in an accident. Turned out to be an injector connector not seated properly. Includes link to sound afterwards in the comments section.

3,0hdi/TDV6 is this a faulty valve lifter ? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqNeedYXNhk)


Cheers mate, I'll be pulling all the injectors this arvo and inspecting. Will return my results.

[ted2910]

Unfortunately not the injectors [bigsad]

[BradC]

Is that "not the injectors" because you pulled them and re-installed them to no change, or is it "not the injectors" because the actual fault became obvious when it chucked a leg out of bed (or similar)?

[DiscoDB]

Do you have the Gap IID tool, or other means of checking the injector balancing offset?

When you are comfortable running the engine again, may need to record the noise from different positions around the engine (and below) to find where it is loudest, plus consider trying a slo-mo video at 240fps of the auxiliary belt. At worst the slo-mo video will just confirm the frequency of the noise - and the belt tensioner gives the overall reference tempo (it bounces on each cylinder firing).

Out of interest - what oil do you use? 5W-40 tends to quieten noisy tappets. Although yours sounds like it needs more than just a thicker oil.

[loanrangie]

Agreed and at the low k's you wouldn't think it would be worn big end bearings already.

[ted2910]

Is that "not the injectors" because you pulled them and re-installed them to no change, or is it "not the injectors" because the actual fault became obvious when it chucked a leg out of bed (or similar)?


Hi Brad,

I pulled the injectors out and checked the seats and electrical connectors. Then replaced them with no change to the sound.

I did have an injector go on me a few months ago and i replaced it, at the time I did a leak down test and all seemed well
with that.

[ted2910]

Do you have the Gap IID tool, or other means of checking the injector balancing offset?

When you are comfortable running the engine again, may need to record the noise from different positions around the engine (and below) to find where it is loudest, plus consider trying a slo-mo video at 240fps of the auxiliary belt. At worst the slo-mo video will just confirm the frequency of the noise - and the belt tensioner gives the overall reference tempo (it bounces on each cylinder firing).

Out of interest - what oil do you use? 5W-40 tends to quieten noisy tappets. Although yours sounds like it needs more than just a thicker oil.[/QUOTE]

Thanks DiscoDB,

I have a launch scanner that i can check the injector balancing offset with and I'll see if I can get a slow-mo recording.
I cant really pin point where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope. I use Castrol Edge 5w-30

175636175637175638175639

[DiscoDB]

Interesting videos.

The injector balance is all within normal range even though 3 are high and 3 are low (this is 3 injectors offsetting the other 3).

The slo-mo video clearly shows the loud clunk is in time with one of the cylinders firing. In slo-mo my TDV6 has the same beat to it, but the leading beat is not a metallic clunk like what you are picking up.

I wonder if you have a sticky valve that is slamming shut, or a roller valve rocker with some play, or hydraulic tappet that has collapsed and not fully opening. Maybe time to remove the inlet manifolds and look for something loose, and then rotate by hand and make sure all the tappets/valves are moving freely.

Pity we don’t have the option to remove rocker cover and run the engine to diagnose.

[ted2910]

Interesting videos.

The injector balance is all within normal range even though 3 are high and 3 are low (this is 3 injectors offsetting the other 3).

The slo-mo video clearly shows the loud clunk is in time with one of the cylinders firing. In slo-mo my TDV6 has the same beat to it, but the leading beat is not a metallic clunk like what you are picking up.

I wonder if you have a sticky valve that is slamming shut, or a roller valve rocker with some play, or hydraulic tappet that has collapsed and not fully opening. Maybe time to remove the inlet manifolds and look for something loose, and then rotate by hand and make sure all the tappets/valves are moving freely.

Pity we don’t have the option to remove rocker cover and run the engine to diagnose.

Thanks DiscoDB,

I actually pulled the RH rocker cover off last night, spun by hand and couldn't see anything out of the norm. I'll have a go
at the LH in the coming days. Not the best job hey! Knuckles look like I've been though fight club [bawl]

Cheers mate.

[Dagilmo]

Thanks DiscoDB,

I actually pulled the RH rocker cover off last night, spun by hand and couldn't see anything out of the norm. I'll have a go
at the LH in the coming days. Not the best job hey! Knuckles look like I've been though fight club [bawl]

Cheers mate.

Hey! Don't talk about Fight Club....

[DiscoDB]

Thanks DiscoDB,

I actually pulled the RH rocker cover off last night, spun by hand and couldn't see anything out of the norm. I'll have a go
at the LH in the coming days. Not the best job hey! Knuckles look like I've been though fight club [bawl]

Cheers mate.

Haven’t had the pleasure yet. Let’s hope you find something. Not something you want to leave to chance when you know it has definitely changed in noise levels.

May pay to also check what oil pressure you are getting.

[PerthDisco]

In the latest LR Time video assembling the 2.7 TDV6 he demonstrated which hydraulic lifters had failed or were failing. Was about 40% in a 186k km engine.

[discorevy]

Bit late to the thread and wouldn't like to diagnose 100% without having the car , but it sounds like piston speed ( bottom end ) .
Which means I doubt you would find anything by pulling the other intake, and unless you enjoy doing it ( which would be strange :-) then yep, is worth putting on trailer and taking to good Indy.

[Pippin]

Bit late to the thread and wouldn't like to diagnose 100% without having the car , but it sounds like piston speed ( bottom end ) .
Which means I doubt you would find anything by pulling the other intake, and unless you enjoy doing it ( which would be strange :-) then yep, is worth putting on trailer and taking to good Indy. Is it a spun big end bearing do you think?

[shack]

Is it a spun big end bearing do you think?I think it's really hard to diagnose "online".

It would be best if the OP can get it to a mech who knows these engines, that would be my strong suggestion, it could be serious or minor, but I think it needs to go to a pro and not be run anymore... Just in case.

Cheers
James

[Pippin]

I think it's really hard to diagnose "online".

It would be best if the OP can get it to a mech who knows these engines, that would be my strong suggestion, it could be serious or minor, but I think it needs to go to a pro and not be run anymore... Just in case.

Cheers
James Discorevy is a pro and I was asking his opinion after what he said in his post.

[shack]

Discorevy is a pro and I was asking his opinion after what he said in his post.Sorry, I know I quoted you but my comment was just a general one really, so definitely not aimed at you in any way, but I can see why you might think that!

I know everyone here is only trying to help, but I think it would be best to get someone to physically look at it.

[Pippin]

Sorry, I know I quoted you but my comment was just a general one really, so definitely not aimed at you in any way, but I can see why you might think that!

I know everyone here is only trying to help, but I think it would be best to get someone to physically look at it. Not a problem Shack, I agree with your suggestion.

[discorevy]

Is it a spun big end bearing do you think?

It's a fair chance Nick .

[DiscoDB]

Would anyone know a good LR mechanic in QLD that could help me with this?
I don't mind putting it on a trailer and going the distance!

I guess the question is - short of finding a TDV6 guru in Gladstone or QLD - how to diagnose a big end bearing failure?

In the absence of any recommended place to take the car to, ted is working through ruling out the cheaper and easier fix potential causes.

ted- what did the LR person that josh suggested in Mackay say?

[Discodicky]

Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone can identify this new tapping noise that has appeared on my 2007 RRS 2.7 TDV6?
Doesn't sound real good to me!

Thanks

175506175507

To me, it sounds like it's half engine speed which will make it at the top end. Noisy lifter, lazy tensioner, etc.
I'd check oil pressure if possible, but add some engine oil flush, (Penrite or Wynns are excellent), flush oil, change oil & filter, also cutting filter to examine for debris but I doubt you'll find any.
Edit: get a stethoscope or long screwdriver (to act as a s/scope) up to your ear and try to find noise whilst engine is running. Place on valve cover/s, cyl head/s etc. You'd be surprised how much you hear and sometimes get good results!

[ted2910]

To me, it sounds like it's half engine speed which will make it at the top end. Noisy lifter, lazy tensioner, etc.
I'd check oil pressure if possible, but add some engine oil flush, (Penrite or Wynns are excellent), flush oil, change oil & filter, also cutting filter to examine for debris but I doubt you'll find any.
Edit: get a stethoscope or long screwdriver (to act as a s/scope) up to your ear and try to find noise whilst engine is running. Place on valve cover/s, cyl head/s etc. You'd be surprised how much you hear and sometimes get good results!

Cheers Guys,
yes I pulled both intakes off cant find anything out of the norm. Is there anything else I can do or test for while they are off?
I know the next step is taking it to someone but coming up to Christmas and I have the time I'm just sort of seeing if there is anything
obvious. I haven't spoke to the guy in Mackay yet, I'll give him a call in the new year. I've checked the oil pressure and that is good but to check the compression on these vehicles I've heard most do it through the glow plugs? is that correct or can I get an adaptor to do it through the injectors? I've heard some horror stories regarding removing the injectors! I've got a stethoscope and cant really pin point it?
maybe a little louder on the LH side.
Cheers for everyone's input, I really appreciate the help. I'm no expert but am learning a lot owning Land Rovers! i had a disco 2 before this and learnt a lot with that too! Cheers

[ted2910]

I guess the question is - short of finding a TDV6 guru in Gladstone or QLD - how to diagnose a big end bearing failure?

In the absence of any recommended place to take the car to, ted is working through ruling out the cheaper and easier fix potential causes.

ted- what did the LR person that josh suggested in Mackay say?

I haven't called him as of yet,
just thought I'd try to identify anything out of the obvious before i do a big trip!

Cheers

[josh.huber]

Cheers Guys,
yes I pulled both intakes off cant find anything out of the norm. Is there anything else I can do or test for while they are off?
I know the next step is taking it to someone but coming up to Christmas and I have the time I'm just sort of seeing if there is anything
obvious. I haven't spoke to the guy in Mackay yet, I'll give him a call in the new year. I've checked the oil pressure and that is good but to check the compression on these vehicles I've heard most do it through the glow plugs? is that correct or can I get an adaptor to do it through the injectors? I've heard some horror stories regarding removing the injectors! I've got a stethoscope and cant really pin point it?
maybe a little louder on the LH side.
Cheers for everyone's input, I really appreciate the help. I'm no expert but am learning a lot owning Land Rovers! i had a disco 2 before this and learnt a lot with that too! Cheers

I thought you said you already removed the injectors? They will come out again easy enough.
Compression testing through a glow plug hole is so much easier normally, most kits would have an adaptor to go through the hole.

You won't be able to visually inspect a failed injector, it'll need to be tested correctly. You could run the car and disconnect an injector one at a time. This will isolate the cylinder with the issue. Then swap the injector to a good cylinder and see if it's the cylinder or the injector that's failed.

These injectors squirt fuel multiple times for every power stroke. The first shot of fuel is the pilot shot. It's purpose is not to go bang but to raise cylinder temps and pressures for the main shot.. as injectors wear. They don't close correctly between the pilot and main and over fuel.. That fuel goes"bang" before top dead centre and causes diesel knock. In bad cases it'll crack a piston in half. It can sound metallic as it causes the engine to try and counter rotate.

[350RRC]

Premature diesel ejaculation in a LR.

Who'd have thought?

DL

[DiscoJeffster]

I thought you said you already removed the injectors? They will come out again easy enough.
Compression testing through a glow plug hole is so much easier normally, most kits would have an adaptor to go through the hole.

You won't be able to visually inspect a failed injector, it'll need to be tested correctly. You could run the car and disconnect an injector one at a time. This will isolate the cylinder with the issue. Then swap the injector to a good cylinder and see if it's the cylinder or the injector that's failed.

These injectors squirt fuel multiple times for every power stroke. The first shot of fuel is the pilot shot. It's purpose is not to go bang but to raise cylinder temps and pressures for the main shot.. as injectors wear. They don't close correctly between the pilot and main and over fuel.. That fuel goes"bang" before top dead centre and causes diesel knock. In bad cases it'll crack a piston in half. It can sound metallic as it causes the engine to try and counter rotate.

And is exactly what I was experiencing which is why I changed all mine and it went away. For me it was only on super low load that it would knock. Thankfully no impact for the period it was knocking before I identified the issue

[ted2910]

I thought you said you already removed the injectors? They will come out again easy enough.
Compression testing through a glow plug hole is so much easier normally, most kits would have an adaptor to go through the hole.

You won't be able to visually inspect a failed injector, it'll need to be tested correctly. You could run the car and disconnect an injector one at a time. This will isolate the cylinder with the issue. Then swap the injector to a good cylinder and see if it's the cylinder or the injector that's failed.

These injectors squirt fuel multiple times for every power stroke. The first shot of fuel is the pilot shot. It's purpose is not to go bang but to raise cylinder temps and pressures for the main shot.. as injectors wear. They don't close correctly between the pilot and main and over fuel.. That fuel goes"bang" before top dead centre and causes diesel knock. In bad cases it'll crack a piston in half. It can sound metallic as it causes the engine to try and counter rotate.

Thanks Josh,

Yes i have removed the injectors and have ordered another one. I'll just swap them over one at a time and see if that makes a difference .
Cheers

[josh.huber]

Thanks Josh,

Yes i have removed the injectors and have ordered another one. I'll just swap them over one at a time and see if that makes a difference .
Cheers

Drop them with the harness first and Save yourself all the extra effort.

The problem child should get rid of the extra noise

[ted2910]

Hi Guys,

Just an update, unfortunately it has turned out to be a spun bearing [bigsad]

My 18k car I've had for a year is now worth nothing! lots of thinking to do!

Cheers for all your input.

Ted2910

[DiscoDB]

Sorry to hear this Ted. Terrible when the worst case scenario plays out.

[PerthDisco]

Sad news. Are you watching Outback Discovery on YouTube? He’s going through same thing and will have a rebuilt spare 2.7 TDV6. You should get in touch. At least you have the Territory engine option especially if you’re ha day enough to do some of the toil.

[101RRS]

Hi Guys,

Just an update, unfortunately it has turned out to be a spun bearing [bigsad]



That is really bad news [bigsad].

How did you determine is was a spun bearing as the initial noise seemed to be more top end rather than bottom.

I hope it all works out in the end with a Territory engine.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Hi Guys,

Just an update, unfortunately it has turned out to be a spun bearing [bigsad]

My 18k car I've had for a year is now worth nothing! lots of thinking to do!

Cheers for all your input.

Ted2910
Sorry to hear that. On the bright side, a prime candidate for a territory engine swap. If it was a 3.0l you'd be looking at a tdv8 swap....

[DiscoJeffster]

Sorry to hear that. On the bright side, a prime candidate for a territory engine swap. If it was a 3.0l you'd be looking at a tdv8 swap....

If it was a 3L you’d scrap it given the cost to do the TDV8 conversion

[incisor]

Hi Guys,

Just an update, unfortunately it has turned out to be a spun bearing [bigsad]



hi

sorry it is bad news

mind if ask a couple of questions?

what oil were you using and how long since the previous service ?

TIA

[ted2910]

hi

sorry it is bad news

mind if ask a couple of questions?

what oil were you using and how long since the previous service ?

TIA

Thanks Guys,

I'm pretty fussy with my oil changes and usually try and do it every 5000k's the last change was a couple of weeks before it happened. I have been using Castrol Edge 5W-30.

The previous owner who replace the engine due to the oil pump housing failure towed a big van so I'm putting it down as that playing a part and maybe something he didn't tell me! he had the Tranny reconditioned and an oil cooler put in at the same time.

I rang the Rover mechanic in Mackay who was very helpful (until he quoted me around 20k to fix!) and sent him the slo-mo videos, he's opinion was a spun bearing. One of the first things DiscoDB told me was to pull apart the oil filter and look for metal shavings, it's funny because the first time I could see nothing but then I ran a flush through it and replaced the oil & filter not long after, pulled it out again and every vein of the oil filter had metal shavings in it! (I'll attach a pic).

Looking at used engines from wreckers they all have 150+ thousand K's on them and asking 7-8 grand for them! Crazy hey..
If I'm going to spend the time and money to repair it I don't want a engine with that many k's! Especially as the one I have only has 59 thousand on it. I found Triumph Rover Spares have a new complete engine for sale for $9900 and I want to try and replace it myself to save costs so may go that way yet? At least then I know it has a bit of life in it and I can only blame myself if something happens again!

The previous owner gave me about 28k worth of receipts in the last 4 years including the engine replacement so he has spent some money on it. Tranny rebuild, oil cooler, air suspension & air compressor, all new hoses with the engine and a few more things so would be a shame not to get it back up and running. I do very much enjoy the vehicle.

Anyway I'll keep you all updated.
176224
Cheers Ted2910.

[loanrangie]

Don't look at LR motors, a territory motor can be as little as $2k plus fitting.

[PerthDisco]

Don't look at LR motors, a territory motor can be as little as $2k plus fitting.

And then kms not so much a worry and also most Terry’s are kids buses driven around burbs and not tow tugs.

[101RRS]

I rang the Rover mechanic in Mackay who was very helpful (until he quoted me around 20k to fix!) and sent him the slo-mo videos, he's opinion was a spun bearing. One of the first things DiscoDB told me was to pull apart the oil filter and look for metal shavings, it's funny because the first time I could see nothing but then I ran a flush through it and replaced the oil & filter not long after, pulled it out again and every vein of the oil filter had metal shavings in it! (I'll attach a pic).



So you have not actually confirmed at this stage that it has actually got spun bearings - before proceeding with anything I would be doing what is required to drop the sump and then the bearing caps and actually checking.

If you can get an as new engine for $9k - I would going that route if your engine does actually have spun bearings.

Garry

[DiscoDB]

Ted2910 - do you know any more about the previous replacement engine? (Vehicle it came from, age, kms, service history?).

Not a fan of the 5W-30 oil for out of warranty motors - personally think it is too thin for hot climates and if it is the original LR spec A5/B5 oil this is selected for reducing fuel economy at the expense of providing better wear protection. But this is a personal viewpoint - need to make your own judgement on this.

[ted2910]

So you have not actually confirmed at this stage that it has actually got spun bearings - before proceeding with anything I would be doing what is required to drop the sump and then the bearing caps and actually checking.

If you can get an as new engine for $9k - I would going that route if your engine does actually have spun bearings.

Garry

Thanks Gary,

I did take the sump off in the early stages but couldn't see much as looked like there was a grate of some sort up in there?
So it is possible to do this with the sump removed? Is there anything else that could cause all those metal filings?
I did take both intakes off up top but it all looked fine to me.

Cheers mate

[ted2910]

Ted2910 - do you know any more about the previous replacement engine? (Vehicle it came from, age, kms, service history?).

Not a fan of the 5W-30 oil for out of warranty motors - personally think it is too thin for hot climates and if it is the original LR spec A5/B5 oil this is selected for reducing fuel economy at the expense of providing better wear protection. But this is a personal viewpoint - need to make your own judgement on this.

Thanks DiscoDB,

I'll keep that in mind in the future. All I know is it was replaced with an engine with 50 thousand k's on it, pretty sure it was done by LR Spares in
Gympie. I have all the receipts, was around 14 grand to do it.

Cheers

[incisor]

brand new ford crate motor is 11k last i heard

[DiscoDB]

Thanks DiscoDB,

I'll keep that in mind in the future. All I know is it was replaced with an engine with 50 thousand k's on it, pretty sure it was done by LR Spares in
Gympie. I have all the receipts, was around 14 grand to do it.

Cheers

It is a cursed vehicle for lightning to strike twice in your case. First an oil pump casing failure, and then a spun bearing on the replacement engine.

Assuming you get to remove the engine, try and find the build date on the failed engine (may be on side of block behind alternator or will be stamped on end of the crankshaft).

Personally I would buy another RRS (perhaps get a V8), then part out your current one to recover losses.

[101RRS]

Thanks Gary,

I did take the sump off in the early stages but couldn't see much as looked like there was a grate of some sort up in there?
So it is possible to do this with the sump removed? Is there anything else that could cause all those metal filings?
I did take both intakes off up top but it all looked fine to me.



I have no idea but I know TerryO removed his sump and found loose bearing caps. If it were me I would want to know it was definitely spun bearings before spending $15k (engine and labour at its cheapest) on getting a new engine - I would even consider taking the engine out and checking - afterall if it is spun bearings the engine has got to come out anyway.

In addition, when you took the sump off, did you see any metal in there, likewise was any in the oil?

[350RRC]

I have no idea but I know TerryO removed his sump and found loose bearing caps. ..................

This issue with the spun bearings interests me and I've watched the LR vids about Fabian's engine.

Bit of background............. in the early 80's I was re-coing a VW 1500 type 3 engine with expert advice from my grandfather

Everything necessary was done and I bolted the 2 crankcase halves together and torqued to spec. Couldn't turn the crank by hand. Split it and GF had a look and could see that one side of one of the 'caps' in the middle of the case had been hammering.

To get it line bored in those days was $430, which was a lot then. GF said no need and scrounged up some shim steel from a local bloke, cut it to size with scissors, used a hole punch where the bolt went through and it got put back together and all was great for years till I sold it.

Couple of things about the LR Time vids........ where he has the case upside down and has taken the cap bolts out he seems surprised how easily the centre caps lift out.

Next is where he line bores the block with the caps on and he's only removing material from the caps.............suggests to me that he's skimmed the mating surface of the caps where they mate with the block (which I don't remember in the vid) or the caps have been hammering away in the block due bolt stretch or incorrect torque............. and the bearings have spun.

Garry's post is the first time I've read of loose caps in these LR engines.

DL

[DiscoJeffster]

To get to it you need to remove the second sump, not just the oil sump, so it’s not a simple task. A few things need to be removed to gain access but it will confirm the diagnosis.

[ted2910]

It is a cursed vehicle for lightning to strike twice in your case. First an oil pump casing failure, and then a spun bearing on the replacement engine.

Assuming you get to remove the engine, try and find the build date on the failed engine (may be on side of block behind alternator or will be stamped on end of the crankshaft).

Personally I would buy another RRS (perhaps get a V8), then part out your current one to recover losses.

Cheers mate I'll defiantly have a look at the V8's

[ted2910]

I have no idea but I know TerryO removed his sump and found loose bearing caps. If it were me I would want to know it was definitely spun bearings before spending $15k (engine and labour at its cheapest) on getting a new engine - I would even consider taking the engine out and checking - afterall if it is spun bearings the engine has got to come out anyway.

In addition, when you took the sump off, did you see any metal in there, likewise was any in the oil?

Cheers for that, When i took off the sump I couldn't see any metal just about 6 or 7 copper specks, ran a magnet through the
oil and nothing! might be different now though looking at the second oil filter after the flush with heaps of metal filings through it!

[ted2910]

To get to it you need to remove the second sump, not just the oil sump, so it’s not a simple task. A few things need to be removed to gain access but it will confirm the diagnosis.

Thanks Discojeffster,

I will remove the sump again and see if i can get to the second sump, nothing to lose!

Cheers

[DiscoDB]

Cheers mate I'll defiantly have a look at the V8's

I keep dreaming of a Supercharged 5L….would be the perfect way to see the fossil fuel era off. The last of the great V8’s. TdV8 would be my second choice.

[ted2910]

I keep dreaming of a Supercharged 5L….would be the perfect way to see the fossil fuel era off. The last of the great V8’s. TdV8 would be my second choice.


Nice! yeah they sound great!

This is mine, pity its only a 2.7, or was!!176290176291
Looking at the receipts, looks like its had two Tranny rebuilds also[biggrin] Black lemon??!

[loanrangie]

Cheers for that, When i took off the sump I couldn't see any metal just about 6 or 7 copper specks, ran a magnet through the
oil and nothing! might be different now though looking at the second oil filter after the flush with heaps of metal filings through it!Magnet isn't much use, bearings are white metal and copper, bigger problems if the crank is shedding metal fragments.
Since the motor still runs it's a good candidate for a rebuild.

[ted2910]

Magnet isn't much use, bearings are white metal and copper, bigger problems if the crank is shedding metal fragments.
Since the motor still runs it's a good candidate for a rebuild.


Ha! yes silly me!

[DiscoDB]

Looking at the receipts, looks like its had two Tranny rebuilds also[biggrin] Black lemon??!

Zowie indeed…..

Must have rolled off the assembly line on Friday 13th before a long weekend.

[Eric SDV6SE]

If there's still any in Oz, the SCV6 petrol would be the G.O. I love the RRS V8 supercharged, can get an early model one for around 20-25k now. I just don't like the RRS body shape.

Can we shoe horn the SCV8 into a D4.....now that would be some car....

[DiscoDB]

If there's still any in Oz, the SCV6 petrol would be the G.O. I love the RRS V8 supercharged, can get an early model one for around 20-25k now. I just don't like the RRS body shape.

Can we shoe horn the SCV8 into a D4.....now that would be some car....

That would be a good mod - and yes it will fit. No known difference in the engine bay.

Buy a V8 D4 and a SCV8 RRS and you could change over motors and ECU’s, a few wiring mods, and still end up with 2 running cars - an SCV8 D4 for me and a decent V8 RRS for the misses.

You probably don’t even need to remove the motors, just remove the SC, manifolds, some accessories and swap ECU’s.

[DiscoDB]

So to help distract Ted and hijack this thread….

My TDV8 D3 plan centre’s around buying the same year TDV8 RRS that is licensed and running, with similar KM’s.

Get access to a garage ideally with 2 car hoists.

Bodies off both.

Engines and transmission out to be swapped over.

Wiring harness and ECU’s removed, RRS harness extended to go into the D3, and the D3 wiring harness just rolled up to go into the RRS.

Brake upgrade and wheel package upgrade for the D3. Although could swap these between the RRS and D3 as well.

New free flowing exhaust for both plus maybe a few other tweaks along the way.

Drive out with a double permagrin (and two capable and great cars).

Somewhere along the lines would need to sort out the engineering approvals etc……although in my youth I had plenty of V8’s licensed as a 6 cylinder……(of course didn’t have insurance back then either).

[DiscoDB]

Nice! yeah they sound great!

This is mine, pity its only a 2.7, or was!!176290176291
Looking at the receipts, looks like its had two Tranny rebuilds also[biggrin] Black lemon??!

That actually looks too good to part it out.

If your intent is to keep long term then either new motor (Jefferson Ford in Melbourne sell new Territory 2.7 for $11,400 or as you found TRS sell new long motor from $9,900), or find a similar age RRS but perhaps not looking as good for the engine and then harvest the rest for parts. Some cars can be worth more parted out.

Even tracking down a low km Territory with the 2.7 and parting this out is a good option. After the engine swap, could even rebuild the current engine to put back into the Territory and then resell.

Your current engine is technically still rebuildable, the car looks great, and you would like to think the transmission has been sorted.

[shack]

I have no idea if they are legit, I've never even dealt with them, but some time ago I came across a business called "Grant Walker parts".

Might be worth a call.

Cheers
James

[ted2910]

I have no idea if they are legit, I've never even dealt with them, but some time ago I came across a business called "Grant Walker parts".

Might be worth a call.

Cheers
James

Thanks James,

Yes I spoke to those guys, they have a used engine with 115,000k's on it for $7000. The new one i was looking
at from Triumph Rover Spares had been sold and the can't get new ones anymore so looks like I'm going to have
to go that way. Watching Outback Discovery's videos on youtube you just don't know what your going to get
with a second hand engine! It now has me thinking if a rebuild is the way to go?

[martinfrench]

I guess I'll join the club...

My 3.0L D4 : Video (https://1drv.ms/v/s!AsH1ZnW6Wh6igaMID0D5j5lNLfFFtQ?e=4WtQx3)

I have rang around a few Indi's here in Perth and was told to expect between 15 and 20k for a rebuild.
Others aren't interested... Apparently some workshops have been burnt recently with failed rebuilds.

I'm in the process of pulling the engine out now to confirm. Not sure what my steps will be following that...

[DiscoDB]

I guess I'll join the club...

My 3.0L D4 : Video (https://1drv.ms/v/s!AsH1ZnW6Wh6igaMID0D5j5lNLfFFtQ?e=4WtQx3)

I have rang around a few Indi's here in Perth and was told to expect between 15 and 20k for a rebuild.
Others aren't interested... Apparently some workshops have been burnt recently with failed rebuilds.

I'm in the process of pulling the engine out now to confirm. Not sure what my steps will be following that...

Did you talk to Darren at Aztech 4x4 (DazzaTD5 on this forum)?

[martinfrench]

Did you talk to Darren at Aztech 4x4 (DazzaTD5 on this forum)?

Yeah I have had a good chat with him.
He doesn’t rebuild them. I understood that it was due to a lack of parts and too much risk.

Once I’ve got the bottom end off I’ll assess the damage and see what my options are…

There are a few rebuild kits online but I’m unsure of quality etc.

-Martin

[BradC]

There are a few rebuild kits online but I’m unsure of quality etc.

There's a mob in the UK who rebuild and are raved about on the UK D3 forum : Independent Land Rover and Range Rover specialist (https://www.ovalautos.com/engines)

Depending on what you find, a call might give you some ideas or options for discussion.

[DiscoDB]

Sorry to hear about your engine failure Martin. Bit of a worry if even Dazza won’t touch them.

It is surprising that it sounds like your 3.0 has a failed bearing, and not a snapped crank. Will be interesting to find out more about the failure.

Sourcing bearings shouldn’t be an issue, but the problem is you may still need a new crankshaft as well and I would be wary of re-using the crankshaft if it has spun a bearing. From what I understand you can only get a new crank if you buy a new short or long motor from JLR.

RovaRange in Melbourne can also supply reconditioned engines from NWS Motor Services in the UK. Plus there is a mob in NSW on eBay who also supply reconditioned 3.0’s but not clear where they get their parts from so do your homework.

Most of the problems with rebuilt 3.0’s seems to be if they have sourced a new crankshaft of unknown origin. Even the major rebuilders in the UK have been caught out by this.

[martinfrench]

Sorry to hear about your engine failure Martin. Bit of a worry if even Dazza won’t touch them.
Appreciate it.


It is surprising that it sounds like your 3.0 has a failed bearing, and not a snapped crank. Will be interesting to find out more about the failure.
The indies I've spoken to were also surprised. I'll be sure to keep you posted!


Sourcing bearings shouldn’t be an issue, but the problem is you may still need a new crankshaft as well and I would be wary of re-using the crankshaft if it has spun a bearing. From what I understand you can only get a new crank if you buy a new short or long motor from JLR.
This is also what one of the indies mentioned to me, finding a new/good crank is most of the battle. Darren mentioned JLR no longer supply new motors.


RovaRange in Melbourne can also supply reconditioned engines from NWS Motor Services in the UK. Plus there is a mob in NSW on eBay who also supply reconditioned 3.0’s but not clear where they get their parts from so do your homework.
Thanks for that, I will enquire with both.

[Azza_LR3]

death rattle. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/lHRBVkZnGuw)

This is what the “death rattle” sounds like. Caused by chewing a bearing. Grit teeth when viewing.. nasty..[bawl]

[ytt105]

That terrible! It sounds like a Prado!

[Eric SDV6SE]

Or a Pootrol 3.0

[scarry]

Darren mentioned JLR no longer supply new motors.

Are you sure thats correct,as the 3.0L was also used up until a couple of years ago in Disco 5?

[scarry]

That terrible! It sounds like a Prado!

Or one of our work Hi Aces,bloody noisey thing,but still going at 325000Km...

[PhilipA]

Ouch! sounds like a TD5. LOL

regards PhilipA

[martinfrench]

Are you sure thats correct,as the 3.0L was also used up until a couple of years ago in Disco 5?

I haven’t made extensive enquiries so i’m only as sure as what I’ve been told. Not that I’m interested in spending 20k for a brand new engine anyway…

[martinfrench]

Engine is out, sump and rocker covers off. Nothing obvious yet… Will have to keep pulling things apart!

[martinfrench]

Good news: I've found the source of the knock. #5 big end.

The adjacent main had also started to show signs of wear.

Bad news: it's also wrecked the crank.

176839176840176841

[PhilipA]

Geez mate I feel for you.
How can anyone buy one of these things and be confident that it will not **** itself.
LR should be dragged over coals for this situation.

Regards PhilipA

[BradC]

How can anyone buy one of these things and be confident that it will not **** itself.

You can't. It took them a lot of years of trying, but Land Rover finally managed to build a car that was less reliable than a 1984 Holden Camira. Every time I leave the driveway I play the "will it get me home again?" cha-cha.

[Discodicky]

Good news: I've found the source of the knock. #5 big end.

The adjacent main had also started to show signs of wear.

Bad news: it's also wrecked the crank.

176839176840176841

The crank doesn't look too bad.
May take a grind ok to .010" under. Get it measured.

[101RRS]

Good news: I've found the source of the knock. #5 big end.

The adjacent main had also started to show signs of wear.

Bad news: it's also wrecked the crank.

176839176840176841

So no spun bearings though looks like some localised oil starvation. I suppose it is too late to check for blockages in the crank oil ways in the area of no 5.

This provides another aspect to the reasons for engine failures.

[DiscoDB]

Good news: I've found the source of the knock. #5 big end.

The adjacent main had also started to show signs of wear.

Bad news: it's also wrecked the crank.

176839176840176841

At least you have confirmed what is wrong. Any evidence that any of the main bearing shells had actually spun?

Also - with the crank now out, what was the crankshaft date of manufacture? Should be laser etched on one end.

[martinfrench]

The crank doesn't look too bad.
May take a grind ok to .010" under. Get it measured.

The "good" journals measure 62.94, the worn one is 62.62. So I'd need to go +0.5 if I was to get it ground.

[martinfrench]

So no spun bearings though looks like some localised oil starvation. I suppose it is too late to check for blockages in the crank oil ways in the area of no 5.

This provides another aspect to the reasons for engine failures.

If I recall correctly, the main bearing adjacent was rotated ever so slightly (like 0.5mm). The oil gallery was still very much exposed but who knows...

[martinfrench]

At least you have confirmed what is wrong. Any evidence that any of the main bearing shells had actually spun?

Also - with the crank now out, what was the crankshaft date of manufacture? Should be laser etched on one end.

No major rotation on the mains no. Very slight but not sure if it's a result of oil starvation or a cause.


176847

[350RRC]

No major rotation on the mains no. Very slight but not sure if it's a result of oil starvation or a cause.


176847

Did you get a torque reading while undoing the bearing cap bolts by any chance?

[DiscoDB]

No major rotation on the mains no. Very slight but not sure if it's a result of oil starvation or a cause.


176847

Pretty sure if the shell had spun you would see score markings - so sounds like this is not like the failures seen on the 2.7 but something different has happened.

What spec oil were you running?

I suspect you won’t land on a definitive reason why it failed, can only speculate now.

[martinfrench]

Did you get a torque reading while undoing the bearing cap bolts by any chance?

No I didn't.

I started to try get an estimate on the mains (mainly because the manual doesn't specify a tightening torque) but I gave up after having issues with my torque wrench.

[martinfrench]

Pretty sure if the shell had spun you would see score markings - so sounds like this is not like the failures seen on the 2.7 but something different has happened.

What spec oil were you running?

I suspect you won’t land on a definitive reason why it failed, can only speculate now.

You can see in the photo that there is 'some' score/friction marks there on the adjacent main. I'll take a measurement when I get home tonight and see if there's any wear. I doubt there will be much. But again, symptom or cause?

Penrite 5W30. Although I had it at an indi recently (3-4 months back) for a oil cooler/rear timing belt change and I'm not sure what they put in it.

[DiscoDB]

You can see in the photo that there is 'some' score/friction marks there on the adjacent main. I'll take a measurement when I get home tonight and see if there's any wear. I doubt there will be much. But again, symptom or cause?

Penrite 5W30. Although I had it at an indi recently (3-4 months back) for a oil cooler/rear timing belt change and I'm not sure what they put in it.

You will be looking for scoring on the back of the main bearing shell and the housing. This will tell you if it has rotated at any stage and blocked the oil flow to the big ends.

Can they rotate and return to the correct position? - possible but unlikely and now speculating. If the main had rotated I would have expected you would have found this during the strip down.

There are so many unknowns - including if you are not the original owner what it’s prior history was. Damage could have been done some time ago and only now worn enough to fail.

Could also be a manufacturing / assembly defect - such as wrong size bearings fitted to the big ends with too much clearance, again shortening life and only now failing.

I guess the real question now is - so what is next? Does this D4 get to run again?

[Discodicky]

The "good" journals measure 62.94, the worn one is 62.62. So I'd need to go +0.5 if I was to get it ground.

0.5 = .020" which is ok but not "desirable" so to speak.
I've seen plenty of engines down to .020" on the mains and big ends, but in a perfect world I guess you'll go with a new crank?

[DiscoDB]

0.5 = .020" which is ok but not "desirable" so to speak.
I've seen plenty of engines down to .020" on the mains and big ends, but in a perfect world I guess you'll go with a new crank?

And you can get 0.5mm undersized main and big-end bearings for the TDV6.

If re-using, I would get the crankshaft crack tested as well to make sure there is not another pre-existing condition waiting to go snap!

[PerthDisco]

LR Time has detailed data and parts info now after their YouTube rebuild. If you emailed them I’m sure they would share the info.

[350RRC]

0.5 = .020" which is ok but not "desirable" so to speak.
I've seen plenty of engines down to .020" on the mains and big ends, but in a perfect world I guess you'll go with a new crank?

The cranks are hardened to a certain depth from memory.

It's in the LR Time vids...........maybe #3 of the TDV6 rebuild.

He ended up using a different S/H crank anyway.

DL

[BradC]

20 years ago we’d stress relieve, weld up the journal, shotpeen/linish the non-machined areas, re-harden the journal and then nitride the whole thing for good measure. Jobs a good-un.

Edit : maybe 30 years… time slips by.

[PeterOZ]

anther you tube thread from a pom called piston broke, he has some good stuff but the German chap in LR time is very methodical and logical in his approach. His Mrs is a cute one - Vera "Oh my God" she says at everything. Too funny.

[martinfrench]

You will be looking for scoring on the back of the main bearing shell and the housing. This will tell you if it has rotated at any stage and blocked the oil flow to the big ends.

Can they rotate and return to the correct position? - possible but unlikely and now speculating. If the main had rotated I would have expected you would have found this during the strip down.

There are so many unknowns - including if you are not the original owner what it’s prior history was. Damage could have been done some time ago and only now worn enough to fail.

Could also be a manufacturing / assembly defect - such as wrong size bearings fitted to the big ends with too much clearance, again shortening life and only now failing.

I guess the real question now is - so what is next? Does this D4 get to run again?


No visible scoring on the back of the main bearings or on the cap/block.

You can see the bearing on the cap has tightened up quite a bit. About 1.1mm. Which means it is loose in the cap. Although I would suspect that is somehow a result of the wear on the inside...

176899176900

I am the second owner and the first had it serviced at the Dealer with logs. But I agree, way too many unknowns.

I did have a tick, most noticeable at idle and only when warm. See Here (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/256925-strange-engine-noise-post2755274.html#post2755274). Had two Indi's fail to identify it. It's gone 5 years without any issues, who's to know if it's related... I guess I'll find out when it all goes back together and the tick remains or doesn't. [bigsmile1]

[350RRC]

LR Time has detailed data and parts info now after their YouTube rebuild. If you emailed them I’m sure they would share the info.

In the LR Time vid where he puts the donk back together (#4 or #5?) he puts a smear of oil under the main shells, which I could not understand.

I would have been putting a smear of super glue under all of them. [biggrin][thumbsupbig]

DL

[Eric SDV6SE]

In the LR Time vid where he puts the donk back together (#4 or #5?) he puts a smear of oil under the main shells, which I could not understand.

I would have been putting a smear of super glue under all of them. [biggrin][thumbsupbig]

DL

Oil may help the bearing shells seat and aid in creating a seal to the main cap journal. Definitely need an oil film on the inside when fitting the crank.

[350RRC]

Was a joke about the superglue. [bigsmile1]

DL

[PerthDisco]

Just bought a Subaru Forester 07 for young bloke. Great little car. Needs head gaskets changed as leaking oil so got it for right price and will DIY with a bunch of other stuff. Turns out every non turbo EJ25 engine globally has dud HGs which need changing. Subaru never owned up to it and haven’t changed the part that fails to the MLS gasket used on the turbos that never fail.

Unless you DYOR Subaru sell you the same part which will fail again vs selling you the MLS one.

There are zillions of these engines.

Being a flat 4 any oil leak falls straight on the hot exhaust for unpleasant smells.

[loanrangie]

In the LR Time vid where he puts the donk back together (#4 or #5?) he puts a smear of oil under the main shells, which I could not understand.

I would have been putting a smear of super glue under all of them. [biggrin][thumbsupbig]

DL

There is a bloke on the Aussie D3/4 facebook group that pegged the shells to stop them spinning in a 3L, not sure how that works but he's rebuilt a few.

[Discodicky]

Just bought a Subaru Forester 07 for young bloke. Great little car. Needs head gaskets changed as leaking oil so got it for right price and will DIY with a bunch of other stuff. Turns out every non turbo EJ25 engine globally has dud HGs which need changing. Subaru never owned up to it and haven’t changed the part that fails to the MLS gasket used on the turbos that never fail.

Unless you DYOR Subaru sell you the same part which will fail again vs selling you the MLS one.

There are zillions of these engines.

Being a flat 4 any oil leak falls straight on the hot exhaust for unpleasant smells.

Ha, had that exact problem with my wife's 2004 Forester for past 190,000 odd klms! Was also told its due to sub standard head gaskets. I thought it wasn't worth fixing and made her put up with the oil smell on the exhaust...... not my problem, I don't drive it! [bigrolf]

At 276,000 klms just gave it to my daughter who'll do only around 5,000 per year in it, and last July ordered a new Mitsubishi ASX "MR". Arrived two weeks ago. Not the bestest in its class but most certainly the best value for munney, and has an excellent CVT tranny where many others have ****e CVT's.

[PhilipA]

Ha, had that exact problem with my wife's 2004 Forester for past 190,000 odd klms!
AND AFAIK from US Youtube sites you have to remove the engine to fix them, as no room between the heads and chassis rails.
Same applies to Outback etc.
Regards PhilipA

[PerthDisco]

AND AFAIK from US Youtube sites you have to remove the engine to fix them, as no room between the heads and chassis rails.
Same applies to Outback etc.
Regards PhilipA

Engine is in many models.

Can be done in car just enough room to wiggle out but very fiddly. Can remove engine mount bolts and jack engine for extra clearance and pull engine to either side.

So simple to remove these engines in a few hours and do a bunch of things like timing belt etc. if you DIY.

Problem is it’s a $4k job retail on these cars which are not worth much more if good condition.

They are tough units otherwise with few faults.

[101RRS]

I have a lot of oil stains on my drive from a 2004 Subaru Impreza - just need to watch oil levels, wipe the underside often and stand upwind when stopped so you dont get over come with burnt oil fumes.

Subaru are supposed to be a quality brand and Landrover not so - yet my RRS has 25,000km more than this Subaru which has been a money pit. A/C stopped a little while back - $600 the week before last to repair - the one rubber hose in the system had perished letting all the gas out.

I would not buy another Subaru with that 2.5 engine.

[PerthDisco]

I have a lot of oil stains on my drive from a 2004 Subaru Impreza - just need to watch oil levels, wipe the underside often and stand upwind when stopped so you dont get over come with burnt oil fumes.

Subaru are supposed to be a quality brand and Landrover not so - yet my RRS has 25,000km more than this Subaru which has been a money pit. A/C stopped a little while back - $600 the week before last to repair - the one rubber hose in the system had perished letting all the gas out.

I would not buy another Subaru with that 2.5 engine.

My other kids car is a 2010 2.0 Tiguan and what a joke that is although it goes like stink. Most expensive parts on earth. Oil and coolant leaks I’m working through 1 by 1. Plastic water pump that swells and breaks. Inherent RMS oil leak. A timing chain that stretches and has destroyed untold engines in VW and Audi cars worldwide. We replaced that.

A mongrel engine bay to work on anything. They design a piece of crap then charge a fortune shamelessly for replacement parts.

The fan assembly is bolted at top and bottom of the radiator so you cant undo just two easy top bolts and pull it out in 1 minute like you can on Subaru.

Wrecker parts for Subaru are abundant and cheap for anything and everything.

LR has never left a puddle.

[martinfrench]

Just to follow up on this...

After some blood, sweat, many swear words and nearly some tears - it's back together and running.

The question now is for how long! :)

[Medevac]

I can’t believe nobody replied!

I just bought a 2006 RRS TDV6 2.7 from FB marketplace and have a ticking noise and found your thread. I enjoyed reading it.

Congrats on getting yours running! How is it doing? 3 years later?

What did you end up doing? New engine or rebuild with a new crank?

I’m normally game to do as much as I can but am not familiar with diesels so going to let the local Indy bloke have a go.

Cheers!