How Many Hours to Remove an 2014 TDV6 Alternator

[Gravy]

What were the people thinking when they designed these cars, definitely not simple access to components to apply a maintenance program.

As a protective measure I want to replace the brushes in my alternator, bolts requiring using a universal joint and 450mm extension to remove and the ambidextrous process to remove the screws fastening the power loom bracket.

Been at it for 2 hours and still have not completely removed the top bolt to get access to the electrical connections and the critter removed.

Thank my stars I am not on the side of the road with a dud alternator.

Well my incompetency is duly flagged by the replies to this post, after a six hour slog I finally have the alternator on the work bench,

The electrical connections on my vehicle are totally inaccessible without breaking the connection on the Starter Motor. This a fun chore without removing the starter motor as the connection tab blocks access to the terminal and requires the insulation boot to be torn.

By doing this it allows rotation and forward movement of the alternator to get a socket fitted on a long extension to undo the alternator terminal, the fun will begin in earnest when its time for reassembly.

The alternator has to be removed by dragging it through the top after fan and inlet duct and pipe removed, pipework negates dropping it through the bottom.

Shuffling the alternator around to gain access to the single wire plug resulted in the wire severing, I will be lengthening this wire on reassembly to make life easier if there is a repeat of this disaster.

Appreciate an image of others installed alternator viewed from floor level, mine looks nothing like the U Tube offerings. I will take some images of where my alternator sits tomorrow.

[DiscoJeffster]

Interesting. While it wasn’t straightforward, I’m sure I did mine in a couple of hours. My only issue was removing the variable voltage sensor wire on the back of it was difficult as I couldn’t work out the plug from underneath. I actually ended up cutting the wire and then soldering it back up once I got it out. The positive connector was a pain but I remember you could unbolt them alternator to get better access to it (I think).

[Graeme]

The power diodes usually fail first, being avalanche type whereby their trigger voltage slowly lowers resulting in a dead short. If you're going to the trouble of removing the alternator before it fails then consider replacing it.

[Eric SDV6SE]

When I replaced mine, I did unbolt first then disconnect the wiring. Have to hold it near install spot to get behind and undo the connector. IIRC about 2h all up including pulling the underbody protection panels off.

[simonmelb]

Is the D2 alternator susceptible to diode failure like this?

As mine is original at 330 K km / 19 years 😳. ( but with new brushes).


The power diodes usually fail first, being avalanche type whereby their trigger voltage slowly lowers resulting in a dead short. If you're going to the trouble of removing the alternator before it fails then consider replacing it.

[Graeme]

D2 alternators weren't known for failed diodes so probably used normal diodes, not reverse switching avalanche / Zener diodes that deteriorate to short circuit.

[PhilipA]

My D2 alternator failed at 134KK, ( a couple of days after I bought it) because the front camshaft plug was leaking and the oil ran into the brush box, wearing the brushes out.
Also my Negative stupid bolt down terminal was unable to be tightened and I think that exacerbated the issue.
I was able to buy a new brush box from the UK and fitted it and have it as a spare, as well as had a new negative battery terminal fitted..
So make sure you have a good seal on your front camshaft plug.
Regards PhilipA

[Gravy]

Well you should leave sleeping dogs lie.

Firstly let me clear one issue, the alternator fitted to my 2014 build L319 Discovery is Denso Part Number AH22-10300-AC, 10 42 10 2421 this cross references to Denso DAN 1105 which is a 150 Amp unit. I wont go into the complexities of LR Part Nos for this device except to add the very latest listing appears to be LR124836.

Next gem of wisdom is the Regulator Part No in this device is GC6 3570 which can be sourced as a separate item.

Now to the chase, as posted previously I removed my alternator to replace the brushes and bearings. Because this version of the SDV6 is twin turbo the access to the alternator is very restricted and the turbo pipe support bracket has to be removed.

During removal I managed to sever the regulator excitation cable which I repaired and length extended to make assembly easier. I also inserted a join in the alternator cable where it terminates on the Starter Motor and extended its length to also make reassembly easier.

I fitted a new brush box and rear bearing which was weeping grease. Cleaned and polished the slip rings. The front bearing I left untouched as it exhibited no faults.

Refitting the alternator became a little easier. Initial engine start up went without problems and voltages measured at the battery terminals were compatible with a "normal alternator".

Next engine restart, after 30 seconds, the Charging Fault appears on the dash, my scanner confirmed the fault and using the voltage diagnostic function revealed voltages only around 13V despite the battery not being fully charged.

Right now I have the alternator removed for the second time, bench tested rotor slip ring and new brush box continuity, diodes for shorts, all showing no fault.

I cannot duplicate the complex signal function that controls the voltage regulation on this type of alternator, "KISS" is not in Land Rovers vocabulary.

Next week Alternator is off to the Auto Electrician to see if he has the resources to fully test this type of alternator, after I test to ensure there is no voltage drops in the alternator connection cables.

If anyone has a means to diagnose how this drama has evolved I would appreciate it.

[DiscoJeffster]

Edit. I recall now it was 180amp and superseded to 150amp. Either way, it has no bearing on your issue.

[Gravy]

That sounds like the wrong amperage. The original D4 alternator was 220amp IIRC and the replacement model was 180amp. That’s what I fitted as I couldn’t easily find a 220amp at the time. 130amp sounds very low. Are you sure it’s correct?

Denso AH22-10300 -AC is rated 150 Amps

[Graeme]

Have you checked your join of the LIN wire?

[Gravy]

Have you checked your join of the LIN wire?
Yes have done a continuity check and I can measure a voltage when the ignition is on.

Things have gone to a mystery phase. When I apply 12V connected via a globe to the B+ terminal and ground I have continuity, reversed polarity there is none.

Using a multimeter set on diode check connected between B+ and ground there are milli volt values displayed regardless of the polarity of the connections. Diode checking of individual diodes shows inconsistently in milli volt values.

A new alternator appears to be on the cards as I cant identify the Part No for the diode mounting plate.

[josh.huber]

Gravy, there was a thread on here not long ago where someone identified parts and suppliers if that helps.

What did you Polish the slip rings with? Wet and dry leaves some residue which insulates between the brush and ring. We were told at TAFE only use plain sand paper then clean thoroughly. Do the same to the carbon brush.

[josh.huber]

I just went and found it. It was your thread, good luck mate,

[Graeme]

Using a multimeter set on diode check connected between B+ and ground there are milli volt values displayed regardless of the polarity of the connections. Diode checking of individual diodes shows inconsistently in milli volt values.Did you take into account that half of the diodes are for positive and the others negative?
To test individual diodes the wires have to be removed but you can't test the avalanche voltage without having a variable voltage supply to cause them to reverse conduct when the trigger voltage is reached. The trigger voltage is around 30V when new but slowly lowers.

[Gravy]

Did you take into account that half of the diodes are for positive and the others negative?
To test individual diodes the wires have to be removed but you can't test the avalanche voltage without having a variable voltage supply to cause them to reverse conduct when the trigger voltage is reached. The trigger voltage is around 30V when new but slowly lowers.

I had not taken this fully into account, however I knew that avalanche diodes had to be triggered similar to a zener. I have assumed that measurements for all pairs of diodes would be similar.

Maybe the auto elec can fully test the alternator, I will find out tomorrow.

The Denso Part No for the rectifier is 0215807310, however I cant find an Aus supplier.

[Graeme]

Zener = avalanche.

[Graeme]

Firstly let me clear one issue, the alternator fitted to my 2014 build L319 Discovery is Denso Part Number AH22-10300-AC, 10 42 10 2421 this cross references to Denso DAN 1105 which is a 150 Amp unit.
The cross-reference is wrong as the Denso number should be DAN1112, being the 180A version.

[Gravy]

The cross-reference is wrong as the Denso number should be DAN1112, being the 180A version.

The Part No on the label attached to my alternator is 10 42 10 2421, which directly cross references to a Denso DAN 1105 which is rated 150A.

Denso DAN 1112 cross references to Part No 10 42 10 6420 which is rated 180A.

I am of the opinion DAN 1112 may have been fitted to the V8 engine.

Reading through the posts on the web on this subject is a minefield. I have based my statements on the label attached to the alternator fitted to my vehicle, I believe it is the original fitment.

I have purchased a replacement alternator from a Launceston Tasmania Auto Electrician for $485 which is a Denso knockoff. Time will be the deciding factor to prove its quality and performance.

[Graeme]

What rating is marked on your original alternator? The MY10 3.0 D4 had 180A which appeared to continue to include MY14 but thereafter a different specification, possibly reducing to the 150A version.

The 220A 4.4TDV8 alternator can be fitted if a little material is removed from the mounting bracket to accommodate the slightly larger alternator and the 4.4's fixed pulley is swapped for the 3.0's free-wheeling pulley.

[Gravy]

What rating is marked on your original alternator? The MY10 3.0 D4 had 180A which appeared to continue to include MY14 but thereafter a different specification, possibly reducing to the 150A version.

The 220A 4.4TDV8 alternator can be fitted if a little material is removed from the mounting bracket to accommodate the slightly larger alternator and the 4.4's fixed pulley is swapped for the 3.0's free-wheeling pulley.


Unfortunately no rating on the label only the Part No. As previously mentioned, subject is a can of worms and seems there are a lot of variations between years of build and engine fitted.

[DiscoJeffster]

I’ve never seen my load get near the 150a alternator I’ve fitted, but next time I’ll probably go back to the 180amp just because.

[Graeme]

I've just replaced the 220A alternator on my 4.4TDV8 L322 and installed a dedicated alternator cable at the same time. After finding that the terminals on a 200A CB on the cable got extremely hot after idling for a couple of minutes, I replaced the CB with a 200A megafuse, only to find its terminals also got extremely hot after idling for a couple of minutes, so the megafuse was bypassed. After a few more minutes idling the IIDTool was connected which then showed 162A again while idling, dropping to around 130A after a few more minutes. My guess is that the alternator may have been pushing close to 200A into the 90Ah AGM starting battery and 100Ah AGM aux battery at the beginning, which hadn't been recharged since the last short drive without a working alternator.

[Gizmo]

Hi Reading this thread have exactly the same problem. In removing the alternatorfrom my 2010 l319 lr4 I have servered the si gle wire I to the plug connector on back of alternator. I see you had same issue. My problem is I can't see the broken wire now somewhere in the void where alternator was any ideas ?

[Gravy]

Hi Reading this thread have exactly the same problem. In removing the alternatorfrom my 2010 l319 lr4 I have servered the si gle wire I to the plug connector on back of alternator. I see you had same issue. My problem is I can't see the broken wire now somewhere in the void where alternator was any ideas ?

The wire will have recoiled back into the void as it would have been under tension when it severed. I cannot remember how this wire was routed, get your phone into the void on video and you should reveal where its hiding. Repairing the termination into the alternator plug I suggest you solder on a "fly Lead" to make reconnection easier.